I know there used to be HTML that let you choose whether a link opens in a new window or stays in the same window.
Do you need to use Javascript to do this now?
Less a tech support question and more a, what now?
My 120 GB HDD is nearly full, and the primary source of the capacity is about 6 years of photos and movies (about 80 GB worth). I'd like to back these up somehow, and/or increase capacity. What's the best way to go about this? I've been thinking of looking into an external HDD, but I'm not sure if that's the best route to go.
https://www google com au/search?q=google&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=&redir_esc=&ei=swF7T_KyMoSSiQfd2ZTLAg#hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&sclient=psy-ab&q=neogaf&oq=neogaf&aq=f&aqi=g4&aql=&gs_l=serp.3..0l4.3029l3709l0l3905l6l6l0l0l0l0l342l342l3-1l1l0.frgbld.&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=46e26829d14b5458&biw=1355&bih=608
Most likely. You shouldn't be using internet explorer in the first place. just do a malware search.As soon as I logged onto my computer and started using the internet today I have been getting warning messages that only secure content is allowed (this is on my google home page). Also noticed I got diverted to ad websites when using google to click through to safe websites. Anyone know about this?
My urls when using google in IE also seem to be extra long not sure if that is normal or not but seems odd.
It's from this video.
Click on your profile, look for the retweeted tweet and click the un-retweet button.how do you un-retweet something?
Hover the mouse over it while viewing your tweets on your profile page and you should see this:I feel like an idiot, but I can't find that?
here's a screen cap:
I'm doing this through Twitter.com if that makes a difference.
That's weird, even on twitter.com I see an option to retweet the tweet I already retweeted again (it gives an error though) but I don't see it on your screencap...when I hover, the only options are "Reply - Favorite - Open" and when I click open, it shows what you see in my screen cap.
So for the past couple of months my Mac has had difficulty connecting to my wireless router. The wireless icon in the top right corner will -- I don't know -- scroll, as if it's trying to connect, and then will alert me that "A connection timeout occurred." I've looked around on various apple forums and have seen that a lot of people are having the same problem, but none of the sites offer a consistent fix. I've tried deleting the router passwords from my keychain, I've tried adjusting the channel on my router, and I've tried a couple of other hoodoo-ey things, all with no luck.
The kicker is, the computer will sporadically connect on its own, and will stay connected just fine until I put the computer into sleep mode or restart it. Then it's a constant fight of going through the diagnostic tools, trying again and again until I get fed up, then walking away only to return hours later to see that I'm connected to the internet.
My Macbook Air connects just fine, as do my Kindle Fire, iPhone 4s, PS3, Apple TV, and a Roku that I recently borrowed from a friend for HBO Go access. It's just this damn desktop. Any ideas?
Possible you can swap out wifi cards?
Posted this in the SC2GAF thread, but would be nice to know if anyone could give me any pointers. Probably gonna continue troubleshooting tomorrow...
OK
So I dunno if SC2 "killed" my graphics card.
I was laddering and suddenly the screen went black and went to sleep mode, but the sound worked for about 10 seconds and then it just went into this buggy loop state. Had to cold boot it cause it didn't respond.
Then the same thing happened the instant I launched SC2 after the boot, and with CS:GO when I connected to a server.
Ran one pass of memtest and showed no error. Crashed some more times, sometimes when I just watched the IPL stream and even a time just when I got into windows.
Tried disabling onboard sound, didn't help!
What did work though was underclocking the GPU 200 mhz (a 570 GTX normally running at 780 mhz), and then I tried 100 mhz which also worked. However, it stilled crashed after a minute of CS:GO when underclocking it 50 mhz.
So, my graphics card doesn't seem to be running particularly hot either.
UGH, and now it crashed on -100 mhz when running CS:GO and ipl stream in the background. So I'm not sure if underclocking is only prolonging until the crashes happen or if I underclock it enough it will work. Trying -150 mhz for now.
Anyone got any thoughts on the issue? It has worked for like half a year without any problems until today... Never overclocked it or anything... (2500K, 2x4 GB Corsair sticks, Geforce 570 GTX)
edit: crashed at -150 mhz while having a stream in the background and playing CS:GO for a minute
Have you been able to use it yet? Monitor the temperatures with an application like SpeedFan for your cores and RealTemp for GPU(s).So, I built my first PC and I have a couple tech questions.
When I installed the power supply, I installed it so the fan is facing up on the inside. Should I have installed it the other way around? There is only an inch or so between the bottom of the case and my desk.
Also, when I installed my GPu (HD6850) I just ran the software that came with it and didn't change any of the settings. What should I do to get the most out of it? Should I be worried about running games on Max and burning it out?
I also only have one case fan at the back running (I'm using a HAF912) but couldn't find the place to plug my front case fan in. Is that going to be a problem?
Have you been able to use it yet? Monitor the temperatures with an application like SpeedFan for your cores and RealTemp for GPU(s).
This one works pretty well but it's a little expensive. There's no point in being cheap with computer hardware though.After a recent laptop crash I'm looking to buy an external HDD for backup purposes and for general file storage use. Looking for something around 1Tb or less. Will eventually buy a second backup just in case one of them fails. I really hate losing files.
Any suggestions on what to buy? Keep in mind I am a poor college student.
You have to use the Windows 7 Install tool by microsoft and then boot from your usb.I've got a question if someone knows the answer.
I just picked up a Lenovo ThinkPad x120e and I want to fresh install Windows 7 on it. Anyone know how to do that, considering the doesn't have a disc drive ... I have a copy of the Windows 7 iso from school, but I'm not sure how to get it to install on the machine.
You have to use the Windows 7 Install tool by microsoft and then boot from your usb.
BSoD said:A problem has been detected and Windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer.
A process or thread crucial to system operation has unexpectedly exited or terminated.
If this is the first time you've seen this Stop error screen, restart your computer. If this screen appears again, follow these steps:
Check to make sure any new hardware or software is properly installed. If this is a new installation ask your hardware or software manufacturer for any Windows updates you might need.
If the problems continue, disable or remove any newly installed hardware or software. Disable BIOS memory options such as caching or shadowing. If you need to use Safe Mode to remove or disable components, restart your computer, press F8 to select Advanced Startup options, and then select Safe Mode.
Technical information:
*** STOP: 0x000000F4 (0x0000000000000003, 0xFFFFFA800B17E330, 0xFFFFFA800B17E610, 0xFFFFF800033D1660)
Collecting data for crash dump ...
Initializing disk for crash dump ...
My PC (Win 7 x64) runs just fine for 30-60 minutes then slows down, locks up and BSoDs. Doesn't matter what I'm doing - surfing, watching a video or listening to music. Just before it fully crashes I get some weird errors like not being able to open files as Windows can't detect any installed programs to use them as well as messages from programs saying there's no space left on my hard drive despite there being 30GB or so (using an SSD if that makes a difference).
In the most recent crashes my SSD is not detected when my PC restarts itself after the crash, leading to "Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key." However, when I hard reset, it's always there agai nand loads Windows up just fine.
Despite setting everything up to collect crash dumps, they just aren't being generated, so I can't analyse them.
I have:
- Used disk tools to check my SSD - they say it has no errors and 18 years of life left in it.
- Run MemTest, no problems there.
- Run chkdsk, nothing.
- Reinstalled Windows 7 x64, still get the exact same problem.
Any suggestions / ideas? This is driving me nuts!
For whatever reason, my D-Link router (DIR-615) will randomly drop all connections, then 1-3 seconds later will go back to normal like nothing even happened. It's becoming a huge pain in the ass for me since I'll never know when I'm going to be disconnected from a game while using my PS3 or Steam or anything. Is there anything at all I can do?
Yes, check the firmware and make sure it's up to date. If it is and it's acting like that...
......install DD-WRT.
http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/support/router-database
it's often more stable software, and it's much more robust and featured.
Thank you! I will try this as soon as I get home!Sounds like the Crucial M4 5200 hour bug. Upgrade the firmware to the latest version to fix.