RapidCancel
Member
Got it, thanks. Guess that's going to be pretty bad if I plan on taking motorsport images. I'll keep a lookout for a D300.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
The Official Camera Equipment Megathread
- Thread starter demon
- Start date
- Status
Got it, thanks. Guess that's going to be pretty bad if I plan on taking motorsport images. I'll keep a lookout for a D300.
Definitely get a D300 for motorsport.
4fps vs. 6 (8 with battery grip)fps.
6 image buffer vs. 20 or so (RAW).
I would also try and get an 's' as it is even slightly better.
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
Fantastic optical quality for the price, build quality that's in line with it though (ie really bad). If you baby it you should be fine.
Foreign Jackass
Member
I just bought a NEX-5n for a trip. It's my first mirrorless and I've experimented in the past with some dSLRs, but nothing very exhaustive.
Any advice from NEX-5n owners for custom settings, or anything I should know before leaving?
edit : I'm retarded
Any advice from NEX-5n owners for custom settings, or anything I should know before leaving?
edit : I'm retarded
I just bought a NEX-5n for a trip. It's my first micro 4/3 and I've experimented in the past with some dSLRs, but nothing very exhaustive.
Any advice from NEX-5n owners for custom settings, or anything I should know before leaving?
Its not a m43 camera.
Test for clicking sound during video recording.
talking about video, I just watched this:
http://www.zacuto.com/shootout-revenge-2012/revenge-great-camera-shootout-part-one
Pretty awesome test. An iphone 4, GH2 with hacked firmware, canon 7D, epic RED, and more.
They don't reveal what camera is what until part 2 http://www.zacuto.com/shootout-revenge-2012/revenge-the-great-camera-shootout-part-two
http://www.zacuto.com/shootout-revenge-2012/revenge-great-camera-shootout-part-one
Pretty awesome test. An iphone 4, GH2 with hacked firmware, canon 7D, epic RED, and more.
They don't reveal what camera is what until part 2 http://www.zacuto.com/shootout-revenge-2012/revenge-the-great-camera-shootout-part-two
Just started shooting film on my Nikon FG and 50mm f/1.8
manual focusing is hard though, I thought I had it in the viewfinder but when it came out it wasn't what I saw, could be the shutter speed was too slow and maybe my hands weren't stable? This was on Fuji 200 ISO cheap film.
manual focusing is hard though, I thought I had it in the viewfinder but when it came out it wasn't what I saw, could be the shutter speed was too slow and maybe my hands weren't stable? This was on Fuji 200 ISO cheap film.
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
Was the point of focus as you saw it in the viewfinder? Or is this an issue of slight blurriness? If the focus isn't correct then it could be either technique or the focus screen is uncalibrated. If its blurriness then yeah its definitely shutter speed. The IS200 film is likely too slow for indoor shooting.
Manual focusing in general definitely takes some getting used to. It gets to a point there where you get a feel for when the point of focus looks right and you dont' second guess yourself. I achieved this with a Rebel and split prism focus screen.
I'm gonna play with some ISO400 and do some more outdoor stuff when I'm off from work. kitchen is too dark for 200
RapidCancel
Member
Thanks for the help. The S is too much out of my budget...I want to spend around $700 if possible. Any places you can recommend for finding used camera bodies?
I wouldn't choose based on fps or buffer. I'd concentrate more on which one focuses faster and which one tracks movement better. You don't need to machine gun to get a good shot, and its not like football or other athletic sports where you need to worry about legs/arms waving around getting in the way.
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
I know everything about that damn lens without having actually used it. Its a phenomenal 28mm lens. Its at its strongest at closest focus and mid distance. Its still very strong at Infinity but it has field curvature (meaning the point of focus curves back towards the photographer at the edges). This results in what seems like slightly blurry corners at Infinity when shooting at apertures larger than f/4. f/4 and beyond (f/5.6, f/8 etc) field curvature flattens out so you get corner to corner sharpness at Infinity.
It has some CA that rears its head in tough lighting situations (like blown out background on dark objects) but its controlled otherwise. It also has pronounced vignetting at f/2 and f/2.8. Its one of the lenses I want at some point in time. You might want to checkout the ZE 35/2 if you want a more controlled lens as far as field curvature that would excel at landscape photography plus its slightly cheaper.
If you want a cheaper 28mm lens at this speed definitely checkout the Nikkor 28/2 AI or AIS (either one is fine, the AI is cheaper) for around $300. Its not as strong as the Zeiss but it gets the job done and is much cheaper. One of its quirks is it has pronounced Spherical Aberrations (or glowing) at f/2 that the Zeiss doesn't have. Otherwise its a very sharp lens when stopped down to f/2.8 and beyond.
RapidCancel
Member
From what I've been reading on the web, the D300 has a definite speed advantage when it comes to focusing.
Wow the new Panasonic LX7 has a f/1.4 lens! That's pretty damn amazing for a compact.
http://www.techradar.com/news/photography-video-capture/cameras/panasonic-lx7-10-things-you-need-to-know-1089539
http://www.techradar.com/news/photography-video-capture/cameras/panasonic-lx7-10-things-you-need-to-know-1089539
You need to have your camera responsive and ready when you press the shutter.
Even firing off single frames you can fill the buffer very quickly shooting any sport on a consumer level camera. For normal situations you don't need huge burst rate, but when there is an accident, or a good pass happening you want as much as possible.
Jugendstil
Member
Mine just came in the mail and the Olympus one works perfectly with the OMD. I can't wait to try it out this weekend.
345triangle
Member
not when you consider that the sensor is smaller than the LX5. the two should pretty much even out.
mclaren777
Member
I'm curious to see how the bokeh compares between the 40mm Pancake and the 50mm 1.8 II so I was hoping somebody might be able to put together a direct comparison (scene for scene) under a variety of conditions.
Any takers?
Bonus Challenge: Include the 85mm 1.8 USM in this comparison.
Any takers?
Bonus Challenge: Include the 85mm 1.8 USM in this comparison.
I hope you guys don't mind a question. My mother wants a new camera for a trip she's taking, but also for taking long range photos on a woodland property my parents own. Budget including lens and carrying gear less than $1200. It needs to be as easy to use as possible. I don't know anything about photography and she knows even less.
Range with an attached lens needs to be 100 yards or so
Any recommendations on camera/lens? Thanks for any help
Range with an attached lens needs to be 100 yards or so
Any recommendations on camera/lens? Thanks for any help
Just get a G1X. I have no idea what you mean by 100 yards. Photography eqiptments use angle of view to descript the "zoom" power, not distance.
I understand that, and apologize for a misuse of terms. But it's hard to know what I need when I lack the vocabulary. Essentially, if there is a bird 100 yards away from her, she wants to be able to take a photo of it in good detail.
Everything is relative. And you always have to make compremise when you pick camera equiptment. You requirement of as easy as possible has already excluded most camera over $500. Therefore I recommend Canon G1X or Fuji X-S1.
But EF-M mount... what does it mean!? Do we need an adaptor for EF-S?
EF-S will need an adaptor...hmm. Awesome. It looks awesome.
I am sure it will need an adaptor. It competes with NEX directly. Looking forward to Canon school Sony how to offer proper lens selections.
EF-M mount means new mount since if they use their current mount, the camera will be bigger and probably near what their DSLR's size is.
Hence Nikon, Sony, Olympus uses different mount on their DSLR and Mirrorless.
I think only Pentax uses their main mount on both ends but the camera is pretty bulky.
Since I have all three, I might be up to the challenge.
I'll try to get some examples posted if I have time this weekend.
Bwa, I HAD all three.
MY EF85 mm was stolens. I have an EF50mm f/1.4 as well, however.
I haven't tested, but having used all three, anecdotally, I would agree.
I loved my 85mm.
Joel Was Right
Member
Does anyone have a 50mm on an APS-C camera? I want to know how many people can you fit in the image and how much you can see of them? I wanted to take pictures of around 2-3 people, from the tip of their head to at least their waist
NathanMcMahon
Banned
What about throwing the 50 1.4 in there?
It depends how far you are from the subjects.
Do you have a zoom lens?
If yes then set it to 75mm and you'll see the FoV of a 50mm on an APS-C.
Joel Was Right
Member
Are you not restricted to a certain distance if you want the image focused/sharp?
Just a lens kit but I want some bokeh. But I want to see what the 50mm (which is actually an 85 on a crop sensor) can do. I'd really appreciate it if anyone could test this for me. Images found on the net are inconclusive
Instigator
Banned
Not impressed.
While we still have to see the back, controls appear limited too.
Just set the lens to 50mm and you'll see what you have to work with regarding field of view. The Canon 50mm f/1.8 is fairly bokehlicious from anywhere from minimum focus distance (0.45m) to several meters away (up to 5 meters or so I'd say, maybe a bit less, but that's subjective of course and will depend on distance to background (and its character).. Check out a DOF calculator to see theoretical numbers).
And regarding "50mm is an 85 on crop sensor"; that's only true as a FOV approximation. It's still a 50mm lens and behaves as such regarding focus and bokeh.
I don't understand . . . As long as you aren't too close, you can focus out to infinity, so no, you should be able to backup as far as you are physically able and still focus. As VNZ said, just set your zoom lens to 50mm to know what you would be working with. I've got a 50mm mounted to my 60D, so I suppose I could take some pictures for you, but they wouldn't tell you much. Setting your own lens to 50mm will give you an idea of how tight the shots will be, etc. I really like my 50 on my 1.6x, but I also recognize that going wider is nice. I'm getting a 40mm next, which I hope will take images of comparable quality but wider. We'll see, I'm not sure that the Canon 40mm can produce the IQ of my SMC Tak 50 1.4, but having autofocus will be nice.
mclaren777
Member
I'm pleased that Canon didn't go with the retro look that many other companies seem to favor.
Depth of field is affected by your distance to subject and the aperture setting on the lens etc -- if that's what you mean then yes. Use this to figure out how deep you need the subject to be clear http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html That's the closest thing I can think of from what you said that could make sense...
mclaren777
Member
Since I have all three, I might be up to the challenge.
If you have time, I would love to see both crop and FF comparisons.
- Status