Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
The leaf + electronic shutter from the Leica Q looks tempting.
Fuji X100T is still probably a better value though.
Fuji X100T is still probably a better value though.
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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread
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TerryLee81
Member
Yeah, but it's actually a good price for a Leica considering the apparently stellar lens and FF sensor.
I am 99% certain that is not true. On chip phase detection has in the past needed compatible lenses. If you use an a mount adapter without the translucent mirror on an e mount cameras with on chip phase detection it will still use contrast detection for focusing.
Had that been true I think Sony would have made a much bigger deal of it so I'm staying skeptical.
Valkyr Junkie
Member
SonyAlphaRumors is quoting Sony that PDAF is achievable on A-mount lenses with non-mirror adapters, so it should be achievable on other mounts as well.
Yeah, I just read the press text.
Not sure if it is the first as Canon had that with dual pixel, but a big improvement either way.
Edit: First for mirrorless, Canon should have made an Eos M with it
TerryLee81
Member
The RX100 IV is $1000?
Man, I don't know, that's a LOT. I really hope we will see more compact cameras with 1"+ sensors, there needs to be more competition.
Man, I don't know, that's a LOT. I really hope we will see more compact cameras with 1"+ sensors, there needs to be more competition.
new sensor stack/tech tax, etc. at that price I guess they maybe selling I, III and IV alongside of each other for a while. Maybe Samsung will be able to catch up in sensor tech in a couple more years to become a serious competitor as a supplier.
If Sony keeps releasing RX100s, it should be dirt cheap eventually, hah.
The fact that you can pick up an original RX100 or MK2 for next to nothing now on the used market is insane, considering what you get for that $~300 or so. We've come a long way from when I started, when a low-end Canon Rebel was considered a "good bargain".
The fact that you can pick up an original RX100 or MK2 for next to nothing now on the used market is insane, considering what you get for that $~300 or so. We've come a long way from when I started, when a low-end Canon Rebel was considered a "good bargain".
TerryLee81
Member
A friend of mine needs a camera (video) for his bike trip. I really don't know anything about "action cameras". GoPro Hero 4 Silver seems to be the one most people get at the moment.
Anyone any experinece? They are quite expensive. You can get a RX100 I for the same price as the Hero 4 Silver here.
Anyone any experinece? They are quite expensive. You can get a RX100 I for the same price as the Hero 4 Silver here.
Try looking up for some tough/rugged digital cameras from panasonic or olympus.
Or you can check some past models of go pro. they are pretty cheap now, and decent on 1080p videos.
Don't really have a whole lot experience with it but I was considering this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...2dl1mjzbuCyBlIaAjq-8P8HAQ&Q=&is=REG&A=details
I do a lot of gopro stuff.
Is he wanting to mount it on his helmet/bike? I wouldn't worry about the rear LCD. Get one of the older models without it. You can view the photos/videos with your smartphone. This drains the battery FAST though so beware. I also wouldn't worry about 4k and 120fps unless he really knows what he is doing and plans to use those features for specific things.
http://shop.gopro.com/cameras/hero/CHDHA-301.html
just get the basic model + a few extra mounts like this bar mount:
http://shop.gopro.com/mounts/handlebar-seatpost-pole-mount/GRH30.html#/start=1
and some cheap spare batts/charger - er... hmm it seems like the cheap one only has internal battery. that is pretty lame. It doesn't allow you to view the videos on your smartphone either.
Q
qizah
Unconfirmed Member
I was wondering if someone could help me here regarding which DSLR I should pick up.
I'm an absolute beginner but I've been wanting to pick up a DSLR for a while now. Right now I'm leaning towards the Nikon D3300, though I've had a look at the Canon Rebel EOS T5 as well.
The Nikon is about $529.99 Canadian at Henry's but I can probably price match with Amazon's $519.99 to save 10 bucks.
Is there any other DSLR I should look out for that's good for entry level?!
Thanks!
I'm an absolute beginner but I've been wanting to pick up a DSLR for a while now. Right now I'm leaning towards the Nikon D3300, though I've had a look at the Canon Rebel EOS T5 as well.
The Nikon is about $529.99 Canadian at Henry's but I can probably price match with Amazon's $519.99 to save 10 bucks.
Is there any other DSLR I should look out for that's good for entry level?!
Thanks!
TerryLee81
Member
Thanks guys.
Yeah he definitely wants to mount it on his bike, so I guess he should go gopro. LCD isn't necessary.
Chest harness is kind of neat with a bike so you can see your hands/bars.
ex:
I did this time lapse on my motorcycle with it mounted to my helmet, I kept it "square" (I think its actually 4:3) format cause I liked seeing the bike i the shot.
There really isn't a right or wrong one to get, just try them out and see which is the more comfortable one in your hands. The Pentax K-50 is a pretty good entry level DSLR as well, is usually cheaper than both of those, and has a weather sealed body and lens.
Callibretto
Member
thinking to buy a prime lense for my A6000. Looking at 35mm f1.8 oss by Sony. I'm also going to have holiday trip to Japan end of this year. Do you guys think that prime lense is good to bring for holiday trip or should I just stick to the standard kit lens of a6000?
I'm afraid that I'll find the 35mm prime is not wide enough, especially when I imagine I'll probably be taking more landscape or scenery photograph in Japan.
I was hoping not to bring multiple lenses and have to constantly switch lens on my trip. I'm going with friends and I don't want to bother them to wait for me whenever I'm swapping lens.
Any other lenses recommendation good for holiday trip to Japan?
I'm afraid that I'll find the 35mm prime is not wide enough, especially when I imagine I'll probably be taking more landscape or scenery photograph in Japan.
I was hoping not to bring multiple lenses and have to constantly switch lens on my trip. I'm going with friends and I don't want to bother them to wait for me whenever I'm swapping lens.
Any other lenses recommendation good for holiday trip to Japan?
I only took the SEL35 and SEL1650 on my previous trip. Worked perfectly in capturing what I wanted.
Swapping lenses takes like 10secs if you have your small camera bag on you anyway.
SEL35 is amazing in capturing people and still getting the background as well.
Check out the Sigma primes as well. You can get both the 19mm and 30mm with the price of the SEL35.
Callibretto
Member
Thanks, I guess I should start practicing swapping lenses on a timer. Lol
Q
qizah
Unconfirmed Member
When I went into the store I actually liked the Canon Rebel t5i a lot. The rotating screen was a big feature I wanted and I didn't particularly like how the lens felt on the Nikon.
Spent most of yesterday night and today reading up on exposure and manual focus and I think I'm getting the idea now.
hitsugi
Member
After owning the Sigma 30mm for a while, I can say that yeah.. it's pretty amazing for $80 (what I paid) and still good retail ($150-ish?), but after a while I wanted that extra f-stop and stabilization.
Someone asked me to do some photographing of some houses (both inside and outside). It's a paid job. I don't have that much experience with photographing architecture so I could use some advice:
1. I want to hire 1-2 lenses. I guess a wide-angle lens and perhaps a lens like 24-70mm. Any advice? Price isn't a problem because lenses are relativity cheap to hire here. So I'd like to use the best lenses possible.
2. Any advice on photographing buildings and rooms inside? What settings would you guys recommend? Or what mode? And a tripod is a must as well I suppose?
I have a Canon Rebel T2i (Canon 550d...) with the kit lens and 50mm 1.8.
They know I am not very experienced with these kind of jobs, but they're fine with that due the budget. Their expectations are not that high, but I want to deliver the best photo's possible. They're also getting printed on A4 photo paper.
Thanks!
1. I want to hire 1-2 lenses. I guess a wide-angle lens and perhaps a lens like 24-70mm. Any advice? Price isn't a problem because lenses are relativity cheap to hire here. So I'd like to use the best lenses possible.
2. Any advice on photographing buildings and rooms inside? What settings would you guys recommend? Or what mode? And a tripod is a must as well I suppose?
I have a Canon Rebel T2i (Canon 550d...) with the kit lens and 50mm 1.8.
They know I am not very experienced with these kind of jobs, but they're fine with that due the budget. Their expectations are not that high, but I want to deliver the best photo's possible. They're also getting printed on A4 photo paper.
Thanks!
sankt-Antonio
:^)--?-<
As a A7II owner, only thing i would want from a A7rII is the improved viewfinder... and the silent shutter mode... and roller shutter free video... and internal 4K video ... god damn it!
Speaking from just a bit of experience; I'm sure there are more experienced GAFers here. Lens wise, yea wide angle like 10-20mm is useful. Tripod is useful since you will be shooting F8 or higher most likely and keep that ISO low. For shooting outside of the building, obviously pay attention to light condition, time of the day, etc. For inside, you may need artificial light(s). So flash/strobe can be handy. I'd frame your shot with room on the edges so you can do some perspective correction in post if needed.
Ether_Snake
å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®å®
Ok this probably sounds stupid but it's driving me nuts. When I press the shutter on my Nikon D7000 it either doesn't do anything (the frame flashes red) or two minutes later it suddenly starts to take a bunch of photos for as many times as I had press the shutter. What's up with the dumb delay all of a sudden? :/ I tried resetting the settings to default, or choosing Scene mode set at landscape or whatever and it still does that...
edit: Found it, it was the shutter release mode, duh.
edit: Found it, it was the shutter release mode, duh.
Astral/H3X
Member
Alright, so I'm needing some new tripod goodness. I think my current tripod does a good enough job holding my camera still between being able to hook onto my bag, but the actual head of the tripod... sucks.
I'm also heavily considering getting the Gorillapod Focus (I've heard you should go one model above what they recommend), and it seems to pair well with the ballhead X, so I'm considering getting that. Keeping in mind that I am a budget sensitive photographer, are there any other ballheads that work better than the X at a very similar price?
I'm also heavily considering getting the Gorillapod Focus (I've heard you should go one model above what they recommend), and it seems to pair well with the ballhead X, so I'm considering getting that. Keeping in mind that I am a budget sensitive photographer, are there any other ballheads that work better than the X at a very similar price?
reggieandTFE
Member
So my shitty imported strap on my brand new Olympus E-M5 mark II snapped unexpectedly. Thankfully, the camera fell on my foot before hitting the ground, which cushioned some of the blow. It was still working so I thought all was fine, but when I went to pull out the battery, I noticed a big honking dent in the corner and the latch that prevents the battery from inadvertently slipping out refuses to release, which is keeping me from charging the battery. How much do you think something like this will set me back if I'm sending it to the manufacturer?
Had the exact thing when i was in vacation. Thought i had fucked up my NEX-6 because i took it to the beach...
Always pressed the release and nothing happend. With every push on the release button, the 10 seconds delay got reset so i didn't hear the shutter to give me a hint.Just thought the shutter was broken. Switched the camera off and raged for a while till i found out next day that it still was in the 10secs shutter release mode... facepalm.
What camera?
I have a ballhead-x for travel/mirrorless and its pretty nice but with a full frame DSLR it is way too wimpy.
Astral/H3X
Member
a6000, with up to a 200mm vintage lens.
So current conundrum: my a6000 has these "creative styles", one of which is B&W, which I'd like to start trying to shoot in. Only issue is, there's a massive difference in between the Black and white photos as viewed on my camera, and as viewed by Lightroom. As I understand it, it's because of the way the creative styles bit is added on, Lightroom doesn't even see it.
Is there any way around this? The photos look FANTASTIC on camera, but terrible in Lightroom. If I could just find a way to either skip the "creative style" bit altogether and still get B&W, that'd work, as well as just finding a way to apply it straight to the RAW as LR will see it. Any ideas?
I would just shoot in colour and change to black and white as you see fit in post. You are only limiting what you can do with the image afterwards by using black and white in the first place if it is not recording the colour data. I don't use that camera or lightroom though so I am not sure what the tools are like for doing that, there is a bunch of different ways to do it in photoshop, either with the channel mixer or various other tools.
LyleLanley
Banned
It's been a while since I've looked into getting a new camera, did Nikon ever make a successor to the D300s? If not, what would you guys recommend I upgrade to? Edit: I'd also be willing to consider switching to another brand.
Double Edit:
I'm starting to think I may just keep the camera and put the money to some new lenses, the whole purpose of this was to get a new camera for outdoor and wildlife shots.
Double Edit:
I'm starting to think I may just keep the camera and put the money to some new lenses, the whole purpose of this was to get a new camera for outdoor and wildlife shots.
Art Teitlebaum
Member
Lots of people are waiting for a D400s (So do I...). The D7200 is their top APS-C box right now with weather sealing and no low-pass filter. Great camera for sure, but frankly right now I'd spend the money and would upgrade to a FF D610 (or even D750) or wait for a real D300s successor, which might never be released since the train seems to ride to full frame or mirrorless on the other end.
Stealth Edit: New lenses are always a good option if you didn't hit the limits of your old body. I would recommend this path!
LyleLanley
Banned
I'm taking a trip to Antarctica so I think my current plan is to get some new lenses, Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G AF-S VR II is the most likely candidate, and then upgrade the body at some point in the future. I would've loved to buy a D400 but I feel like if I get anything else I'm either going to be disappointed with the upgrade or end up spending an absolute ton of cash.
Art Teitlebaum
Member
I'm feeling the same, I'm not a pixel peeper and good glass is always superior to minor improvements of a new body. That tele is a fine lens for sure.
LyleLanley
Banned
Any other lenses I should get? I haven't done much nature/wildlife photography before.
Art Teitlebaum
Member
When in open nature, I'm always glad to have a wide zoom with me for landscape shots, though the composition is not easy, if there is literally nothing else in the frame, which might be the case in Antarctica,I reckon. The Tokina 11-16 2,8 II is my weapon of choice, but for many users the Sigma 10-20 3,5 is a bit more versatile, I guess.
Here's the flickr pool of the Tokina. Some fine landscape pics in there:
Tokina 11-16 Flickr pool
LyleLanley
Banned
Great, I was looking for a wide angle lens and it's nice to find one that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Astral/H3X
Member
I've heard, and noticed, that shooting in B&W to begin with changes how you go about shooting photos. Makes you pay attention to different details, frame things differently, etc, so I'm of the opinion that just picking and choosing shots later to convert to black and white is not the best option.
And my RAWs ARE recording the color data -- it's just forgetting to have black and white applied to it, in a way that Lightroom sees that it should be black and white. It's currently applying the "settings" for it to be black and white, and what contrast/etc settings to use as an addendum to the end of the RAW file. I think I've found a workflow that might get me the results I want though, but I need to test it.
That is fair enough, it is much the same reason why some people like to use prime lenses over zoom lenses, to force yourself to work within a set of constraints. For me the manipulation of the images after the fact is just as fun as shooting in the first place though so I don't really worry about it so much.
200 on long end is quite short for wild life especially when you don't have a lot of resolution to crop imo.
BUNTING1243
Banned
Bought a new lens:
Carl Zeiss 135mm f 2 Apo-Sonnar T* ZE. My bank account hates me now.
Nice! What's the use case for something like that? Portrait stuff or macro?
I'll mainly use it for portraits and stuff. Macro is also possible with this lens if I understand people correctly.
When it comes to wildlife, the Tamron SP 150-600mm is great when it comes to price/quality. It's a little over a 1000$ and gives a lot of bang for your buck. Another possibility is the Nikkor AF-S 300mm f4. Same price, goes up to 300mm but it's a prime so it's gonna be sharp as hell. You could even use an extender for that one and still get good results. If you wanna go a bit more expensive you could try Nikkor AF-D 80-400mm F4.5-5.6 ED VR. Price range in the 2500$ region, but it obviously also gives you a great reach.
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