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This thread is about My Car
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Ninja Scooter
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It's a 2003, purchased in December 2002. It's just now getting to 30,000 miles.fart said:
I only have three (small) complaints about the car:
1) Torque steer. As you mentioned, if you punch it and you're not paying attention, you can screw yourself up. I'd be much happier with RWD, and ALMOST ponied up the extra money for a G35 for that reason. However, the $$$ difference wasn't worth it in the end.
2) Turn radius. The thing turns like a minivan...seriously. Certain parking lots give me a headache.
3) Ride quality. The 3.5SE has the sport suspension, so the road feel is a bit pronounced for my taste.
Other than that, I'm very happy with the amenities, power, styling, and size.
-jinx- said:
:lol
My Maxima is the same way-- must be a Nissan thing. Trying to make a U-turn is an exercise in futility; it invariably ends up becoming a "K-turn/broken-U turn". It's really my only complaint about the car. Meanwhile, my friend's BMW 330i can pull a U-turn on a Brooklyn avenue cleanly even if there are cars parked on both sides of the street. :lol
man, some hot cars here. props to the svx, and i want to fuck your ex-sti mrklaw.
as for being a harsh ride, i went from an early 90s grand caravan to this, so the difference is like night (on earth) and day (on mars). personally i can't freaking get enough of it. i don't mind a harsh ride at all if i can at least feel the road.
:lol on the turning circle. i had heard about that, but didn't really take it seriously.
as for being a harsh ride, i went from an early 90s grand caravan to this, so the difference is like night (on earth) and day (on mars). personally i can't freaking get enough of it. i don't mind a harsh ride at all if i can at least feel the road.
mr klaw:
i met a couple of guys today, one of whom whose car is pictured in my picture, who talked nothing but de-cat this, up-pipe that, and down-pipe that shizzle, and you can make easy extra hp, 250, 270's worth. but i didn't see those mods listed on yours. your's was euro spec? perhaps it's a bit different. and unless that's the sti, then those mods are completely unnecessary
i met a couple of guys today, one of whom whose car is pictured in my picture, who talked nothing but de-cat this, up-pipe that, and down-pipe that shizzle, and you can make easy extra hp, 250, 270's worth. but i didn't see those mods listed on yours. your's was euro spec? perhaps it's a bit different. and unless that's the sti, then those mods are completely unnecessary
Error Macro
Member
My other two vehicles look like poop right now, so I can't show them off.
My fun car is a 64 Nova, daily driver's a Saturn.
Nova photo: http://www.klonoanights.com/bjork/nova.jpg
Nova photo: http://www.klonoanights.com/bjork/nova.jpg
You should repaint it 350z Metallic Blue, put some Tein SS Coilovers, you need Racing Hart 19 x 9.5 wrapped in Nitto 550x 225/35 a big break kit from Brembo and atleast a 15psi Turbo from greddy to even step up to the line with my 1999 Si.
BTW. A short shifter, some aluminum pullys, a sway bar and strut bar, definatly a cold air intake, cut it to a short ram tho because noone wants hydrolock, and definatly and exhuast minus the cat, and you should be good to go.
Stick or manual, because an spoon clutch and flywheel would also be killer
BTW. A short shifter, some aluminum pullys, a sway bar and strut bar, definatly a cold air intake, cut it to a short ram tho because noone wants hydrolock, and definatly and exhuast minus the cat, and you should be good to go.
Stick or manual, because an spoon clutch and flywheel would also be killer
Vinzer Deling
Banned
Poor Z... neons? RICE.
Why Tein SS? How would one go about setting it up? What spring rates should one get? What offset would be best to clear brembo calipers? Would one need to upgrade one's master brake cylinder to push the additional pistons? How would pedal feel be without a brake master cylinder upgrade? Should a ROM tune be neccessary for 15PSI? Or do you recommend a standalone engine management?
Koopa said:
Why Tein SS? How would one go about setting it up? What spring rates should one get? What offset would be best to clear brembo calipers? Would one need to upgrade one's master brake cylinder to push the additional pistons? How would pedal feel be without a brake master cylinder upgrade? Should a ROM tune be neccessary for 15PSI? Or do you recommend a standalone engine management?
r - b - x said:
Thats the performance end. I didn't touch that because I respected my 3 year warranty, and the car was still brand new. Most of my stuff is cosmetic - the STI replica spoiler and front lip, coded side skirts. Even the backbox (prodrive) is mostly there for audio pleasure - it really brings out the scooby rumble.
The only performance mod is Prodrive springs which lower the car about 30mm and reduce roll significantly.
The car was still bought as a practical run about, so needed to be family-friendly. I just don't like the look of standard WRXs.
Here's a quick photo of my new BM.
PlayStation Tree
Member
The AstroTrain:
Man I love my Van!
Man I love my Van!
Vinzer Deling
Banned
PlayStation Tree said:The AstroTrain:
Man I love my Van!
Awesome setup for a Reality Porn Site!
Well, Tein is the best fabricated coilover for a spacific application, The Super Street with pellowball uppermounts, lower your stock 2.3in on the front and 1.6in on the back with an adjustable hight from .8 to 3.2in on the front and .6 to 2.25in on the rear. Thats on a 99si Now setting the stiffness rate of the coilovers is based on the desired application use. 16 different levels from stiff as fuck to loose as hell. But with the Pellowball uppermounts you can mount a EDFC controller to change them from the driverseat. Which is the best part, 3 diiffrent settings at the flip of a switch you can change stiffness as you ride based on whats up ahead of up. hard for turns, soft for slight roll in banking. The best suspension package that money can buy.
As for Brembo calipers, all depends on what kind of Gran Turismo setup and wheel you want to go with, I know with my Racing Hart CR Multipiece, I had to machine 5/16 aluminum spacers to get the rims to fit, The only offset that the CR's offer in 19x9.5 is 17mm. I wasnt gonna sacrafice Tread width for application ease. Dowel roll the sidepanel lip and your good to go.
Now as far as the Master Cylinder. In my case I didnt have to upgrade it because for one thing I had 4 wheel disc breaks. Now keep inmind the my big break kit came from aem which uses a brembo monoblock caliper, its the same thats on the rear of a porcshe boxter S. Now if i were to goto a ALCON 6 piston or a GREX 6 piston or Wilwood 6 Piston, yah the master break cylender would need to be retrofited to withstand the break pressure needed to supply all those pistons at once, were talking 20 pistions, not 10 which is on my current setup. The pistons on the caliper are smaller then oem, but engage the pad more evenly distributing the surface along my 13" rotor uniformily. Along with steel braided break lines it causes the breaks to be very very stiff. I will go threw the windshield before the car goes another inch.
I do recommend a standalone engine management system. Preferably from Greddy or Apexi. All Greddy turbos come with E-Manage, I also am a fan of there REBIC IV and PROFEC E-01 Injector and boost controllers. Most stock non turbo ECU's have trouble with turbos's Bypassing and Piggybacking is a must.
Of course turbo's on non turbo cars arent smog legal in california, You need to know a few places that look for blimps at certian key moments of a smog check. Then agian if your running a b18 w/ turbo in a 99si, your not running a cat. Moot point.
Im thinking of buying a S2000. In that case I would go with a Comptech Turbo, which is warranteed for that car. Then the engine management system can be redone, Spoon has one and i beleave Apexi has a very outstanding EMS.
Daily driving is done at 3psi boost. anything higher on a regular basis will wear out the springs and valves in my personal experiance.
My car in war paint back in November:
And the fastest car I've ever seen in my life: O_O
No, really. I think it's the fastest production car from 0-60. I think this Superstalker is the same Caterham clone that Tiff Needel blew up on a drag strip. He recorded a time faster than the official record IIRC. This thing went like greased shit in a straight line, and if the driver was better, would have put more than the 2 seconds he did on the field. And you're talking about 2 seconds on a 40 second track. Just nuts. PEACE.
EDIT: Oh yeah, since it's time to brag, here's what I've put in there so far:
Front member brace, antiflex plate (chassis braces), short shifter, stainless steel brakelines, panasonic CQ-C8400U headunit with animated bling factor, midranges from my Crystal CSc60s comps. Switched over to synthetic oil last month, and put in synthetic brake fluid. Neither make a difference in feel, but will add some durability. The front member brace and antiflex plate are aluminum braces that help tighten the chassis from the middle forward. They dampen vibration a good bit and have swung the car a bit further back to neutral. I've just been waiting for good deals so far.
Next up is a pretty trick rear member brace kit, if the manufacturer keeps their word. Also gonna replace the current middle flex plate with a hopefully stronger and lighter one. But I'm waiting for front and rear strut tower bars still. Supposed to have both available by March. We'll see. That and Saner might be making a rear sway bar for my car, which would be perfect, b/c then I'd save and buy the f/r complete set from them. My timetable's been screwed recently, so no turbo this year, I don't think. I have plenty of oomph for the autox course, but I really wanted one. I think I can still get in coilovers on top of everything else by then. Leaning towards JIC, but know there are other options that have more setup information available. We'll see. No bullshit intakes or exhausts for me, it'll all have to be replaced to go forced-induction anyway, so I'll wait for a turbo kit. Maybe by then I'll fully figure out my plan for a front-mount intercooler to work with a functional vented hood like the JGTC cars. I really hope to eventually turn my car into a street-legal version of a JGTC racer. The yellow will have to go by then.
And the fastest car I've ever seen in my life: O_O
No, really. I think it's the fastest production car from 0-60. I think this Superstalker is the same Caterham clone that Tiff Needel blew up on a drag strip. He recorded a time faster than the official record IIRC. This thing went like greased shit in a straight line, and if the driver was better, would have put more than the 2 seconds he did on the field. And you're talking about 2 seconds on a 40 second track. Just nuts. PEACE.
EDIT: Oh yeah, since it's time to brag, here's what I've put in there so far:
Front member brace, antiflex plate (chassis braces), short shifter, stainless steel brakelines, panasonic CQ-C8400U headunit with animated bling factor
, midranges from my Crystal CSc60s comps. Switched over to synthetic oil last month, and put in synthetic brake fluid. Neither make a difference in feel, but will add some durability. The front member brace and antiflex plate are aluminum braces that help tighten the chassis from the middle forward. They dampen vibration a good bit and have swung the car a bit further back to neutral. I've just been waiting for good deals so far.Next up is a pretty trick rear member brace kit, if the manufacturer keeps their word. Also gonna replace the current middle flex plate with a hopefully stronger and lighter one. But I'm waiting for front and rear strut tower bars still. Supposed to have both available by March. We'll see. That and Saner might be making a rear sway bar for my car, which would be perfect, b/c then I'd save and buy the f/r complete set from them. My timetable's been screwed recently, so no turbo this year, I don't think. I have plenty of oomph for the autox course, but I really wanted one. I think I can still get in coilovers on top of everything else by then. Leaning towards JIC, but know there are other options that have more setup information available. We'll see. No bullshit intakes or exhausts for me, it'll all have to be replaced to go forced-induction anyway, so I'll wait for a turbo kit. Maybe by then I'll fully figure out my plan for a front-mount intercooler to work with a functional vented hood like the JGTC cars. I really hope to eventually turn my car into a street-legal version of a JGTC racer. The yellow will have to go by then.
Personally, I Stick with a Alpine 9815 headunit with a removable false floor system, 4 12" Kicker sub with 2 1050 Kicker Amps. Destroys people at a redlight, I have yet to see an import coupe that can bang without the chitty like mine. Anytakers?
Takes 2 dry cells, 2 caps and a crossover. $3200 @ Evolution Motorsports. I have my bride seats sitting in the garage, waiting for the mounting brackets to intall. The last thing I need to do is a stamped aluminum dash, triple chromed wraped in black leather. Finally found someone who can do it tho its expensive. I just had my switches installed with auto camber on the drop.
Nothing like sleeping the line with an Ghetto R, rev the engine alittle bit, hit the switches, bam, 4500 rpm, drop the clutch let it grab and drag let it hit 8k bam, 2nd back into 7k roll it to just over 9k, let the short shifter work into 3rd (thats what you buy it for) 6.2k is the launch, peek the road, glance the speedo and grip the wheel becuase its reading about 110 drop the clutch let it respool and throw it into 4th in 5.6 to 6k. You do that and nothing short of a twin turbo can touch you.
2 things you gotta remeber with a b18 and honda trannys, never shift into 3rd while rpms drop, always while rising, too much bog and you will grind gears, dont rev too much or it might pop on you which isnt as bad but will cost you time, the synchro's in 5th will catch anything so dont worry where you are just dont redline 4th, always shift at like 8.5k for max hp boost.
Never drop outta Vtec untill you throw the hazards. because you opponant will.
Takes 2 dry cells, 2 caps and a crossover. $3200 @ Evolution Motorsports. I have my bride seats sitting in the garage, waiting for the mounting brackets to intall. The last thing I need to do is a stamped aluminum dash, triple chromed wraped in black leather. Finally found someone who can do it tho its expensive. I just had my switches installed with auto camber on the drop.
Nothing like sleeping the line with an Ghetto R, rev the engine alittle bit, hit the switches, bam, 4500 rpm, drop the clutch let it grab and drag let it hit 8k bam, 2nd back into 7k roll it to just over 9k, let the short shifter work into 3rd (thats what you buy it for) 6.2k is the launch, peek the road, glance the speedo and grip the wheel becuase its reading about 110 drop the clutch let it respool and throw it into 4th in 5.6 to 6k. You do that and nothing short of a twin turbo can touch you.
2 things you gotta remeber with a b18 and honda trannys, never shift into 3rd while rpms drop, always while rising, too much bog and you will grind gears, dont rev too much or it might pop on you which isnt as bad but will cost you time, the synchro's in 5th will catch anything so dont worry where you are just dont redline 4th, always shift at like 8.5k for max hp boost.
Never drop outta Vtec untill you throw the hazards. because you opponant will.
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