Windows 10 Troubleshooting Thread

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Ever since installing Windows 10 I've had this issue where the memory usage for the "System" process goes up to 99% for the whole computer, it causes audio to freak out and really slows the whole computer down entirely. Restarting the computer fixes it though it can sometimes happen a few times in a row, and sometimes once a week.

Anyone heard of this issue before and if so a way to fix it permanently?

It's a memory leak of some kind but i need help identifying which driver is causing it.

Windows 10 Pro 64bit.
8GB RAM.
AMD R9 290 (latest drivers)
Intel core i5- 4670k 3.40GHZ
Motherboard: MSI Z87 GD65 Gaming
Network: Killer Network

KeIIhRg.png


That's a LOT of disk io
 
So I recently upgraded windows 10 on my old trusty mini-pc that I mostly use for movies, tv-show and Netflix etc...

Unfortunately my mini-pc is running with an ATI Mobility Radeon HD 4200 card and as I've gathered ATI has no desire to supply those card with drivers because they're too old and doesn't meet minimum requirements.

The model is an Inspiron Zino HD mini-pc and I have no clue how to upgrade that PC with a better card that both fits and is compatible with windows 10.

Without the ATI catalyst drivers my movies gets too dark during night scenes and plays rather sluggish on most media players.

Is it time for this old fella to retire or are there cards I can cheaply buy that fits and meet the minimum requirements for windows 10? I can't change between rgb and ycbcr either. I found out that my TV (42'' Sony Smart TV) gets much clearer colors during dark scenes when I switched to ycbcr in the catalyst driver options, but I have option to do that anymore.

Here is the culprit in all its glory.
OriginalPng
 
Does windows 10 not sync your favorites in Microsoft Edge between devices?

I have an SP3 and a desktop, and my favorites aren't carrying between them, despite having all the sync options turned on. Am I missing something?
 
I'm a bit out of the loop but touch functionality seems to be worse than with 8.1 no?

I can't get the virtual keyboard to show up on the login screen anymore and it's driving my GF crazy...

Anyone else having the same problem?
 
My hard drive failed. I had OEM windows 8 which had been upgraded to Windows 10. If I replace the hard drive is there any way to get Windows 10 back on it for free?
 
Is there anyway to install ONLY Windows 10 on a Macbook Pro? Do i Need bootcamp and all that?

I Am not sure the process, I just want to make sure it is only Windows.
 
just got a Surface Pro 3...

1. I don't have a keyboard so I'm using it like a tablet basically (bought it for drawing in Photoshop). When I pull up the on screen keyboard it's always in the mode where you draw the letters with the pen to type. How can I have the default on screen keyboard be the normal, full screen touch keyboard?

2. I had a Pro 3 earlier this month that I eventually returned. The new one I bought has Windows 10 preinstalled. The touch is seriously broken feeling to me. Don't remember it being like this in 8.1. Scrolling a web page in Chrome is totally flakey and basically stops working until I use the pen to scroll the scroll bar. It mostly seems fine if I use the pen to navigate around, but sometimes using touch is much nicer. Is anyone else experiencing this or could I have a hardware issue?

3. How to delete an icon from the Metro style tile screen?

4. what's the best way to send files from OS X to my Surface Pro and back? Doing a bluetooth transfer right now and it's slowowoow.
 
Not sure how to solve this so I guess this thread is my best bet.

Installing a new NVIDIA driver completely screwed my PC, it was stuck in a failing repair loop that had no solution. I had to completely wipe my C drive and reinstall Windows 10.

My problem is, everything that stayed on my D drive such as files and programs no longer exists as far as Windows is concerned, at least when I try to search things. It's not the biggest problem in the world but it is super frustrating not being able to just hit the Windows button and type in what I want. I've resorted to reinstalling a bunch of the smaller programs just to get the links to register but I don't want to for the bigger stuff.

Is there a fix?
 
can I set it so I NEVER have to input a password to log into Windows?

Under "Accounts>Sign-in Options" I have "Require sign-in" set to "Never" but it still asks for my password if the computer has been in sleep for awhile or if I shut down or restart.
 
can I set it so I NEVER have to input a password to log into Windows?

Under "Accounts>Sign-in Options" I have "Require sign-in" set to "Never" but it still asks for my password if the computer has been in sleep for awhile or if I shut down or restart.

If you are logged in with a Microsoft account user I'm not sure your can but, there is another place in settings where you can have it set to enter password coming from sleep... Not at my computer but I believe, power... So check that .

But again if you are in with MS account I don't know if it gives you the option for never there
 
well I guess I'll have to unlink my Microsoft account then?

I just bought a Surface as a drawing tablet and I don't feel like typing in a password every time I wake the computer.
 
Anyone have any idea where to start with my issue? Can't type a 1 using the number bar on any keyboard, whether it's my P/S2 mechanical, wireless USB, or the built-in software onscreen keyboard. Can still type a ! with the key using shift on all keyboards, but release shift and it does nothing. This happens in any and all programs or scenarios on the OS. I can still type a 1 using the numpad. From my testing this is the only character/key that is having issues.

This is making general typing improbably difficult, as I constantly hit the normal 1 out of muscle memory all the time, then have to go back and use the numpad to fix it.
 
Alright, just installed Windows 10 .. it's kind of a mess... takes a long time to do things... but my Windows had always had a problem before where it would sometimes hang on a startup after taking forever and eventually freeze... It happened the first time, but after a hard reset it's functional for now. I'm looking for ways to stabilize things.. more updates or new drivers or something, but nothing's coming up.


Here are some issues coming up:

Soundblaster X-fi Xtreme Audio now comes up as 'Muted' ... I don't know how to get the audio to work for this anymore. Any solution??

Other programs, like Steam, look like they're running at a lower resolution. Clearly my desktop is 1920 x 1080, but the steam window is huuuge and fuzzy, along with some other programs like my headset software, etc.


Actually, I think some of my problems will work themselves out if I can install the two new hard drives I bought to get away from this crumbling old one... Are there any easy instructions or handy guides for moving my windows install (wanted to upgrade first) to a new SSD, and then installing an additional HDD to keep all the big files? I'm trying to jump ship from this old hard drive and am not sure how.


edit: Okay, inexplicably the audio is working. I guess that's taken care of..
 
Soundblaster X-fi Xtreme Audio now comes up as 'Muted' ... I don't know how to get the audio to work for this anymore. Any solution?

The solution for me was just to wait. I had the same problem, but some 24 hours later, Windows finally found the update and applied it, so now it works perfectly.
 
I'm having weird issues with my pc, whereby when I turn it off, it then refuses to boot the next day - won't even show me a bios screen, won't show anything at all, with no hard drive activity. It only boots up now if I switch it off first at the psu (I note that the headset light goes off) - only then will it work, and load up without any issue.

I have noticed that the light on my Roccat Kave 5.1 headset remains on when the pc is shut off whereby it didn't before when I had Windows 7 installed, but I seriously doubt that has anything to do with it.
 
I'm having weird issues with my pc, whereby when I turn it off, the light on my Roccat Kave 5.1 headset remains on, when it didn't before I updated to Windows 10. The pc then refuses to boot the next day after I shut it down the previous - won't even show me a bios screen, won't show anything at all, with no hard drive activity. It only boots up now if I switch it off first at the psu (I note that the headset light goes off) - only then will it work, and load up without any issue.

I have no idea if the headset being powered when the pc is off has any effect on this, in fact I'm sure it's not, but it is something I noticed as the light always had gone off before. I have absolutely no idea what's going on here. Any ideas?

I have no idea, but it may be something to do with power settings in the control panel. Or, you might be able to find something in the device manager page for your headset.
 
I have no idea, but it may be something to do with power settings in the control panel. Or, you might be able to find something in the device manager page for your headset.

I did find that the "USB selective suspend setting" was enabled. Just to try anything I disabled it and turned off my pc - the light on the headset stayed on, but the pc booted as normal when I switched it on again. However, I only let a roughly twenty second time elapse after I shut it off before I switched it on again, and it's usually my finding the next day when I go to turn it on that it won't boot, so I doubt this is indicative of anything at all.

The headset isn't listed on the device manager as it uses 3.5mm cables, so other than the usb cable there for power alone it's not an active device, so to speak. Looking through Google some people suggest the psu may be at fault, but it's a brand new one I bought last month and I had no such trouble with it under Windows 7. It has to be something that Windows 10 brought along to the mix... but who knows. The motherboard is only a few months old also.
 
I'm having weird issues with my pc, whereby when I turn it off, it then refuses to boot the next day - won't even show me a bios screen, won't show anything at all, with no hard drive activity. It only boots up now if I switch it off first at the psu (I note that the headset light goes off) - only then will it work, and load up without any issue.

I have noticed that the light on my Roccat Kave 5.1 headset remains on when the pc is shut off whereby it didn't before when I had Windows 7 installed, but I seriously doubt that has anything to do with it.

I don't know if this'll help, but after I installed win10, one of my HDDs wasn't always detected. I swapped SATA cables, power cables, etc. Same thing.

When it did show up, ran an HDD test, it passed fine. So, looking around, I decided to run the built in memory diagnostic tool: haven't had any issues since.

Another odd thing that was fixed for me in Win10 was one of my front USB ports. In 8.1, sometimes I'd have to disable and renable it via device manager; don't have to anymore since I upgraded.

Other users get that error when you attempt to shut down via right click start > shut down? I don't always get it. But if I do a shut down with win+x, no error.
 
So i was wondering about the "reset pc" option...

I did an upgrade from windows 7, and then proceeded to do a clean/reset. That option that deletes everything and so it's a clean install.
What i'm wondering is how clean it actually is.. Usually when i do clean installs i just format and boot a usb stick with the OS.. I did not do it this time however.
I'm a little worried that the "clean" option available inside the OS actually is very clean at all, and i'm thinking about just doing a full format. But i thought i'd ask you guys first.
 
So i was wondering about the "reset pc" option...

I did an upgrade from windows 7, and then proceeded to do a clean/reset. That option that deletes everything and so it's a clean install.
What i'm wondering is how clean it actually is.. Usually when i do clean installs i just format and boot a usb stick with the OS.. I did not do it this time however.
I'm a little worried that the "clean" option available inside the OS actually is very clean at all, and i'm thinking about just doing a full format. But i thought i'd ask you guys first.

It's not really that clean. It keeps your Windows.old folder which is fine I suppose but it also kept a bunch of stuff on C:/ for me that I could have done without. I'm sure there are more under-the-hood things that it also kept.
 
I'm having a weird problem.

I can't seem to sign into my MS account when on my PC.

Right now I'm logged as Owner and local account, but no matter what I do to change and sign into a 'MS account' it just does nothing. I click on it and nothing, I've tried all the other ones too and I get no response at all. I have no idea why it won't let me change accounts to my MS account.

Any reason why it's doing this, I've tried googling but I can't find any answer to my problem. I want to sign into the MS store app to DL a game, but I can't even do that, as it does the same thing, I just keep clicking and nothing at all happens.

I'm singed into my MS account on my laptop if that has anything to do with it.
 
Has anyone found a solution to the screen not turning off and sleep not activating after the set durations?

So I've been tinkering with this problem for some time now and found out that my gamepad connected with an USB is the culprit! With Windows 10 the system will not go into automatic sleep mode if you have a gamepad/joystick connected to your PC. The only way I've found to fix this is to either unplug it or go into device manager and look for something called "HiD-compliant game controller" and disable it.

Hope it helps anyone. It fixed my problem.
 
It's not really that clean. It keeps your Windows.old folder which is fine I suppose but it also kept a bunch of stuff on C:/ for me that I could have done without. I'm sure there are more under-the-hood things that it also kept.

Are we talking about the same thing though? I did not have a Windows.old folder. It's not the fast one that keeps some files, but the other options that takes awhile. I forget what it said, though.
Because to me, it looked like it formatted (since it took awhile, even on my SSD)...
but i dunno.
 
Are we talking about the same thing though? I did not have a Windows.old folder. It's not the fast one that keeps some files, but the other options that takes awhile. I forget what it said, though.
Because to me, it looked like it formatted (since it took awhile, even on my SSD)...
but i dunno.

I did the 8.1 to 10 upgrade and toggled 'keep nothing' and it certainly did not 'keep nothing'.


Man these random reboots are pissing me off.
 
I don't know if this'll help, but after I installed win10, one of my HDDs wasn't always detected. I swapped SATA cables, power cables, etc. Same thing.

When it did show up, ran an HDD test, it passed fine. So, looking around, I decided to run the built in memory diagnostic tool: haven't had any issues since.

Another odd thing that was fixed for me in Win10 was one of my front USB ports. In 8.1, sometimes I'd have to disable and renable it via device manager; don't have to anymore since I upgraded.

Other users get that error when you attempt to shut down via right click start > shut down? I don't always get it. But if I do a shut down with win+x, no error.

Hmmm... not having any issues with my drives.

Something else happened last night that has me suspecting the usb ports are to blame after all - this time, when I shut it off, the lights for the keyboard and mouse stayed on, as well as the headset. When I went to turn it on this morning, again I got no boot with no screen, with the keyboard backlight noticeably almost flashing, as if the usb ports were trying to initialise.

Not sure what the hell is up.
 
Anybody elses audio crackling and generally more shit since the update?
Here. The white noise is noticeable as all hell. The sound is low-fi. It just really, really sucks. I use a realtech driver and after updating it, it still sucks. I searched everywhere for someone with similar problems, no such luck. No idea why it sounds so bad.
 
A couple days ago Windows Update automatically fetched the latest Radeon R7 200 Series drivers. After it finished, I noticed that it seemed to have completely removed Catalyst Control Center from my PC, so I went to the website and downloaded the driver pack manually and installed everything except the Gaming Evolved App.

Since then, it seems like once a day while just using Chrome (nothing more graphically intense than Facebook) my video will stutter for a moment, flicker off a couple times, then I'll get exactly 3 notifications in a row saying my display driver stopped responding and has recovered.

When this happens I restart and everything seems fine until a day or two later when it'll happen again. It wasn't happening before Windows Update fetched the new drivers for me.

Anyone else having issues like this?

This is currently happening to me... CCC won't open whatsoever now, even after having done a clean uninstall on the graphics drivers and downloaded and reinstalled them from the AMD website.

edit: system restore saved my compooter's life.

edit2: Yeah it would fucking automatically download & install it again, fuck off.
 
After the latest forced update last night, my PC would freeze at seemingly random points during boot-up. Tried to boot it up a bunch of times with no luck. Furthest I got was some seconds after log-in before it freezes, and I can't do anything except shut down via power button. Windows repair doesn't work. Anyone else experienced this?

Reverted back to Windows 7. Too much hassle!
 
I'm having trouble with a difficult hard drive. Bought the hard drive last year so it's out of warranty. When I first got it, it had a disconnecting issue. I would connect it but then after 10-15 minutes, it would stop communicating with my pc and I would get a device error whenever I tried to access it. So I put it in a drawer and meant to get to it later but then I forgot. Well, I finally got around to buying a USB external closure so I took it out of its existing enclosure and I no longer get the disconnecting issue but now it's showing up as RAW. Can't format (well, you can but it would say something like 350GBs when it's in fact a 3TB hard drive. So I downloaded TestDisk after searching around online for an answer but this program might as well be in Greek. I did redo the MBR and got it to show up as working again. But now it shows up as a 2TB hard drive instead of 3TBs. Now, I'm not sure what to do. Seems like every single thing I can do in TestDisk takes hours to complete. So can anyone help me fix this so that the whole thing is working correctly? Here are some photos. You can see the unallocated volume in Disk Management but you can't do anything with it except select Properties. And the other 2TB volume, you can't expand it. So I'm not really sure what to do now?

Disk Management (right click on the allocated volume)
79ZxpOG.jpg
Disk Management (right click on the unallocated volume)
CrUWLLK.jpg
Properties on the unallocated volume (MBR partition style? That's the problem isn't it?)
UPWtJhi.jpg

Also, in the photos at the top list, the hard drive in question shows "Active" under Status whereas the others do not (the one third from the bottom).

I would try PartedMagic but it's not free. Would prefer to use something that is free and open-source if possible.
 
Fixed the admin thing.


But I can't fix Cortana! It shows up in process but nothing on taskbar besides a magnifying glass. How do I reset her?

cc5fqf9.png
 
I cannot for the life of me figure out why I can no longer get updates to download/install. I keep getting the error 0x8000ffff. If I google the error number, it only gives me solutions for older versions of Windows, which is something about the registry, but I guess Windows 10 doesn't have the exact thing I'm suppose to look for. Downloading the specific updates via browser doesn't seem to work as well. It tries to install, but fails.

To be more specific, it's updates KB3081444, KB3081449, & KB3081452.

Edit: Running troubleshooter says "Potential Windows Update Database error 0x8007371B: Fixed"...but it still doesn't work.
 
Ever since installing Windows 10 I've had this issue where the memory usage for the "System" process goes up to 99% for the whole computer, it causes audio to freak out and really slows the whole computer down entirely. Restarting the computer fixes it though it can sometimes happen a few times in a row, and sometimes once a week.

Anyone heard of this issue before and if so a way to fix it permanently?

It's a memory leak of some kind but i need help identifying which driver is causing it.

Windows 10 Pro 64bit.
8GB RAM.
AMD R9 290 (latest drivers)
Intel core i5- 4670k 3.40GHZ
Motherboard: MSI Z87 GD65 Gaming
Network: Killer Network

KeIIhRg.png



Did you solve your problem?? I had the same exact problem and the same motherboard. Turned out it was a massive memory leak due to old Killer Network drivers.

You may have the same problem. Get the latest drivers here. if you haven't.

Now the memory usage hovers around 20% on my pc instead of the crazy 98%.
 
After upgrading I decided to try out insider builds. After a couple weeks it's upgrading to new builds frequently enough that I want to just go back to stock, but I can't seem to do so.

Windows Update > Advanced Options. I click "Stop Insider builds." The below window appears.

nPxpTLa.jpg


I follow the "How do I" link. It goes to this page, which says to do... exactly what I've done already. The step where it says I should be given an option to opt out is where I get the screen above.

Anyone seen this?
 
Finally did a clean install. I bought a new drive from a while back that I've been meaning to use. All of those issues I had before, like Bluetooth audio not streaming from my Android phone to being unable to install old Win 8.1 drivers for certain hardware features have been solved because of it.

There was one issue that popped up during the OS install, though, that never happened with previous versions of Windows. After formatting the empty drive, Windows wouldn't install for some reason. Turns out you have to set your intended primary drive as the first boot-up drive in BIOS. Don't recall this issue happening before.

Other than that, smooth sailing so far.
 
Configuring my receiver to work with Windows 10 is a pain. In the beginning, sound was only output to the headphones plugged into the receiver and not the TV. When I restarted it and turned the TV on, it was reversed. I've only had sound be output to the TV for a week, which was fine for now. Today, though, it's not outputting sound to the TV, either. I haven't changed anything. It was never this finicky in Windows 7 or 8.
 
After upgrading I decided to try out insider builds. After a couple weeks it's upgrading to new builds frequently enough that I want to just go back to stock, but I can't seem to do so.

Windows Update > Advanced Options. I click "Stop Insider builds." The below window appears.

nPxpTLa.jpg


I follow the "How do I" link. It goes to this page, which says to do... exactly what I've done already. The step where it says I should be given an option to opt out is where I get the screen above.

Anyone seen this?



have not seen that but from the page you linked it sounds like this is the solution...

If you were unable to opt out, use one of the following recovery images: Windows 7, Windows 8.1, and Windows 10.
 
I disabled all the Cortana features and Bing search from the start/search menu, but now it doesn't want to search.

It only works like 1/50 times.

Start > (Type in something like Word) --> Nothing happens

Win+S does absolutely nothing.
 
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