"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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So has anyone here ever had to deal with a rattly videocard? My gtx680 is about 18 months old and has developed a very subtle little rattle. Its actually more annoying than if it were just loud and noticeable, it comes and goes and is so faint that it makes me question my sanity.
 
So, does anyone here have experience replacing OEM HP Mobos with 3rd party boards?

I'll be replacing the Mobo in an HPe-410y soon and want to make sure I don't run into too many issues if I go with something like this.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131942

It'll work with the Phenom II X6 that's in the current mobo and will provide an upgrade path with minimal upfront cost... ...if it will work with the HP OEM parts.

Will I have to buy a fresh copy of Windows?
 
SUPER CRAZY GOOD FAN DEAL ALERT:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._mmc=EMC-GD050714-_-index-_-Item-_-35-553-002

$17 FANS SELLING FOR $5 WITH PROMO CODE EMCYTZG268 ($7 discount, $5 MIR). Even at $10, this is a crazy good deal.

jakomocha said:
Okay, I think I somewhat understand it. I don't want to risk changing the BIOS (at least until my warranty has run out) unless this is safe, but with a 1440p screen would you recommend overclocking any of the GPU's? Most people seem to recommend it. It seems like an overclocked Classified only performs 3-4 FPS faster than an overclocked GHZ, which is not worth an extra $40, so is it really worth the extra money just in case I decide to unlock the power amount/change the BIOS? Also, it's very difficult to find benchmarks for the GHZ edition (both OC'd and not OC'd), where it was much easier with the Lightning and Classified. Any benchmarks you have?

I'll probably go with the GHZ Edition, it seems the mostly friendly for first time builders.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
There was a review on overclock3d.net I believe. But, you can just get an exact idea of performance by taking the difference in % the core clock is and modifying other results. Though they *seem* like different cards, they're all the same in terms of actual performance. Different power delivery does not change performance, only frequency of the GPU and memory changes any of that.
killertofu said:
I got it second hand :(
Click to expand...
Warranties are by serial #, and last 3 years.
Jtwo said:
So has anyone here ever had to deal with a rattly videocard? My gtx680 is about 18 months old and has developed a very subtle little rattle. Its actually more annoying than if it were just loud and noticeable, it comes and goes and is so faint that it makes me question my sanity.
Click to expand...
When was the last time you cleaned out your PC? Some dust might be causing the fan to be off balance.
Al13n said:
Hmm, reading about 2x HD6950 in crossfire (like in my rig) is not much worse than a GTX 780..
Click to expand...
Nope nope nope nope nope

It's similar in raw benchmarks, but actual game performance is very different from that. It's prone to stutters and all sorts of wonky behavior that makes it feel like the performance is lower than Average FPS might let on. That is, if there is even a crossfire profile in the first place.

Always buy the best single card you can, and only use SLI/Crossfire to achieve performance that is otherwise impossible with a single card.
 
mkenyon said:
When was the last time you cleaned out your PC? Some dust might be causing the fan to be off balance.
Click to expand...

I check it a few times a month to clean the bottom filter, etc. I guess there could be some dust inside the GPU that I just can't see. Do I need to take it apart or should I Just spray a whole can of air into it and hope for the best?
 
Jtwo said:
I check it a few times a month to clean the bottom filter, etc. I guess there could be some dust inside the GPU that I just can't see. Do I need to take it apart or should I Just spray a whole can of air into it and hope for the best?
Click to expand...
Just hit the GPU fan, but be sure to hold it in place while spraying it.
 
dmr87 said:
Time for a new build.

No GPU yet, I'm holding out a month or so to see if the Nvidia 800 series rumor in June turns out to hold some water.

hhK.png


Corsair Obsidian 750D
Asus Maximus Hero VI
i5 4670K
3x Corsair Air series AF140 Quiet edition
4x Corsair Air series SP120 High Performance
Corsair 16GB CL9 2133MHz Vengeance Pro

(H100i, 2xGTX670 and a AX750 PSU from my old build)
Click to expand...

Are 7 fans necessary??
 
GAF, need quick advice.

My RVZ01b case came with 2 case fans and one of these splitters http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162026 which I am currently using for both fans (one is over GPU, the other is attached to the AIO H60 cooler.

My motherboard only has 2 headers, a CPU and SYS header. I have the H60 pump powered through the CPU header. And I have the 2 fans going through the supplied splitter, and going into the SYS header. Works perfect, no problems. I like the way it works, neat and easy.

But there's another vent/grill for another fan (over the GPU as well) that I want to use. So would it be ok if I buy another one of those splitters (as shown above in the link) and run the 3rd fan, along with the H60 pump with the splitter, going through the CPU header?

If it helps, I want all fans running at 100% all the time, since they're all slim fans.
 
So I've always had a question GAF, is it fact that leaving your PC on without going into sleep/hybrid sleep prolongs the life of it? I've always thought it did so never used it. Sure, it drains more electricity but always figured the only thing that would really be hurt by doing this is fans and they're simple cheap replacements. My reasoning was I always wanted my HDD spinning rather than not spinning and waking a PC up constantly could fluctuate temps which is obviously a negative. What's y'all's opinion on that?
 
zeroeffect said:
So I've always had a question GAF, is it fact that leaving your PC on without going into sleep/hybrid sleep prolongs the life of it? I've always thought it did so never used it. Sure, it drains more electricity but always figured the only thing that would really be hurt by doing this is fans and they're simple cheap replacements. My reasoning was I always wanted my HDD spinning rather than not spinning and waking a PC up constantly could fluctuate temps which is obviously a negative. What's y'all's opinion on that?
Click to expand...

Leaving it running all the time will shortern it's life. The more electricity that runs through transistors to more they will wear down. If you are not stressing your computer or overclocking though it will still last longer than you will probably use it. As for fans and especially hard drives running them all the time drastically lowers there lifespan. They are mechanical pieces that wear with constant use.
 
scogoth said:
Leaving it running all the time will shortern it's life. The more electricity that runs through transistors to more they will wear down. If you are not stressing your computer or overclocking though it will still last longer than you will probably use it. As for fans and especially hard drives running them all the time drastically lowers there lifespan. They mechanical pieces that wear with constant use.
Click to expand...

The electrical components are stressed far more by heat-related contraction/expansion than the actual flow of current. That being said, I don't see why you would worry about lifespan based on on/off states...by the time any of these components begin to fail, you should be ready for an upgrade.

Overclocking is another story...any forced increase in speed (thus more current draw) will certainly lower lifespan. I've heard of CPUs with high voltage lasting a matter of months.

EDIT - I rewrote this a little.
 
Ok so my mum asked me to get a PC for a total of 400€, not a cent more. The catch is that the PC is for her charity group, and she wants to be able to teach children ''advanced PC techniques'' such as coding. She sort of has a monitor already (a 4:3 one...) and I can provide a key to windows 7.
Here's what I came up with (from amazon.it):
G.Skill Ripjaws 4GB kit DDR3-1600 43.89€
Asrock FM2A55M-HD+ (http://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B00G6NNR5A/) 44.81€
Western Digital WD5000AAKX Caviar BLUE HardDisk, 3.5 inch 46.43€
EVGA 100-W1-0430-KR PSU 430W (http://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B00GP5Y5HI/) 49.95€
AMD A10-7800k 165.81€
Cooler Master rc-343-kkn1 Case Elite 343 - m-ATX Black (http://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B004TIQEF4/) 44.31€
total: 394€

1)No, I cannot put an i3 and a dedicated graphics card in it, an i3 only costs about 50€ less and at that price range there's nothing decent. I'm working on a very strict budget here.
2) Consider that the aforementioned monitor is most likely not HD.
Any oversight?
 
scogoth said:
Leaving it running all the time will shortern it's life. The more electricity that runs through transistors to more they will wear down. If you are not stressing your computer or overclocking though it will still last longer than you will probably use it. As for fans and especially hard drives running them all the time drastically lowers there lifespan. They are mechanical pieces that wear with constant use.
Click to expand...

I didn't really think of that. Interesting. Thanks for the responses. I guess I'll just start making it sleep.
 
Does it need a gpu for gaming? If not there is no point to the APU.

You could pretty easily rig up something nice kn a small formfactor.
 
aka_bueno said:
GAF, need quick advice.

My RVZ01b case came with 2 case fans and one of these splitters http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162026 which I am currently using for both fans (one is over GPU, the other is attached to the AIO H60 cooler.

My motherboard only has 2 headers, a CPU and SYS header. I have the H60 pump powered through the CPU header. And I have the 2 fans going through the supplied splitter, and going into the SYS header. Works perfect, no problems. I like the way it works, neat and easy.

But there's another vent/grill for another fan (over the GPU as well) that I want to use. So would it be ok if I buy another one of those splitters (as shown above in the link) and run the 3rd fan, along with the H60 pump with the splitter, going through the CPU header?

If it helps, I want all fans running at 100% all the time, since they're all slim fans.
Click to expand...
No. Either get a molex adapter to run the pump off of separately, or get a power distribution board that you can use everything on.
 
kennah said:
Does it need a gpu for gaming? If not there is no point to the APU.

You could pretty easily rig up something nice kn a small formfactor.
Click to expand...

Thing is, 400 is not the maximum they can spend, but rather the amount they HAVE TO spend. I went with the APU because I thought it was more versatile, maybe they could try doing something with unity or minecraft.

Anyway, what did you have in mind?
 
I am throwing together a cheap build to be used as a *nix home server. Nothing major, it will mainly be used as for storage, as well as plex video encoding and maybe sftp. I am basing the build mainly on the basic build guide in the OP, as well as logical increments. I was looking at using this mobo from the OP, in conjunction with an i5-4430, when I noticed that the motherboard doesn't support RAID. Is anyone familiar with a similar board for around the same price that does support RAID without needing to purchase a separate RAID controller card?

EDIT: Been browsing around some. Anybody have any thoughts on this board?
 
SMOK3Y said:
damn man you getting out of gaming?
Click to expand...

He's only selling one of his 780Tis :P

OminoMichelin said:
Thing is, 400 is not the maximum they can spend, but rather the amount they HAVE TO spend. I went with the APU because I thought it was more versatile, maybe they could try doing something with unity or minecraft.

Anyway, what did you have in mind?
Click to expand...

Sorry, busy day at work :) There are a couple options, but basically for something like that you want something small, stays out of the way, looks nicer. Not having a GPU opens up a lot of options for a computer case. I put this together for you using an APU

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: AMD A10-5800K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-F2A88XN-WIFI Mini ITX FM2+ Motherboard ($102.49 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Blu 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($34.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Seagate SuperSpeed HDD 1TB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($79.99 @ Mac Mall)
Case: Inwin BP655.FH200B Mini ITX Desktop Case w/200W Power Supply ($53.56 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($15.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $397.00
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-07 17:15 EDT-0400)

And this together using an i3.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($119.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85N Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($79.89 @ Mwave)
Memory: Kingston Blu 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($34.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Seagate SuperSpeed HDD 1TB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($79.99 @ Mac Mall)
Case: Inwin BP655.FH200B Mini ITX Desktop Case w/200W Power Supply ($53.56 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($15.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $384.39
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-07 17:18 EDT-0400)


The i3 would likely have a bit of a processor speed advantage, but with a worse GPU. If the budget is flexible, I would definitely recommend picking up dual channel of faster RAM, but did this with one stick of 4gig so that another could be added at a later date for 8gig without having to remove everything.

Also, ITX cases are a very personal thing. Take a look around at the different cases out there. Since you're not looking at doing a high end build with a GPU, pretty much any power supply that is 200W or up will work for what you're doing. I like to keep computers like this small, tucked out of the way.
 
kennah said:
Stuff
Click to expand...

Thank you, though I should probably reiterate that I'm buying from amazon.it :p
So just about any PSU will do the job? I went with the EVGA 400W because I didn't want to skimp on quality too much and it went with a nice 3-year guarantee. I can probably safe some money from that and get maybe some speakers if needed ( I have some very old ones laying around) and maybe a CD-DVD reader.
Mini itx seems a good idea, and there's a good case+PSU on amazon, but unfortunately the motherboard costs about double as much; I mean, I COULD do it, but it would be purely for aestetics, I'd end up spending about as much :p
Guess I'll go with this one and spend the difference to get something else http://www.amazon.it/dp/B00FU6GTAO/, probably an SSD...
 
Planning on building a new PC and it's been nearly 10 years since I last built one, so I could use some help.

Your Current Specs: I really only plan on reusing my CD drive.
Budget: Between $700-850.
Main Use: Gaming and emulation.
Monitor Resolution: I plan on playing off my LCD TV (720p) for the time being. Would eventually like to get a monitor that supports 1080p.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I'd like to be able to run Skyrim with texture mods, I suppose. 60FPS would be nice, too, but not necessary.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Other than my CD drive, nope.
When will you build?: No hard deadline, would prefer to build in the next few months, but I can be patient to see if prices fall on certain components.
Will you be overclocking?: No.
No Crossfire/SLI

I'm trying to build a machine that is moderately powerful and stable (modest power consumption, runs cool)

Here is my current build:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3FkXx

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G43 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($108.89 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($72.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 270X 2GB DirectCU II Video Card ($215.66 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX Power Supply ($32.48 @ Newegg)
Total: $844.98
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-07 18:08 EDT-0400)

Any further assistance or criticisms/suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Ryman said:
Here is my current build:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3FkXx

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G43 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($108.89 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($72.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 270X 2GB DirectCU II Video Card ($215.66 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX Power Supply ($32.48 @ Newegg)
Total: $844.98
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-07 18:08 EDT-0400)

Any further assistance or criticisms/suggestions would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

If you are not overclocking, you can get a considerably cheaper motherboard.
 
Ryman said:
Planning on building a new PC and it's been nearly 10 years since I last built one, so I could use some help.

Your Current Specs: I really only plan on reusing my CD drive.
Budget: Between $700-850.
Main Use: Gaming and emulation.
Monitor Resolution: I plan on playing off my LCD TV (720p) for the time being. Would eventually like to get a monitor that supports 1080p.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I'd like to be able to run Skyrim with texture mods, I suppose. 60FPS would be nice, too, but not necessary.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Other than my CD drive, nope.
When will you build?: No hard deadline, would prefer to build in the next few months, but I can be patient to see if prices fall on certain components.
Will you be overclocking?: No.
No Crossfire/SLI

I'm trying to build a machine that is moderately powerful and stable (modest power consumption, runs cool)

Here is my current build:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3FkXx

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G43 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($108.89 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($72.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 270X 2GB DirectCU II Video Card ($215.66 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX Power Supply ($32.48 @ Newegg)
Total: $844.98
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-07 18:08 EDT-0400)

Any further assistance or criticisms/suggestions would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

If you're into emulation you'll want to overclock, so I'd look to this build instead. Skyrim is also another CPU bound game too that'd benefit from overclocking. It's easy to do now and you're looking at an extra 15-25% performance boost.

Cheaper and you're actually getting a better motherboard and CPU for the money.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.97 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi Z87X 3D ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M500 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($66.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 270X 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX Power Supply ($32.48 @ Newegg)
Total: $833.38
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-07 18:28 EDT-0400)

You could drop to an R9 270 which is the same GPU as the 270X just clocked 100MHz slower. Newegg has a Sapphire one for $180 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID= That money could be used say to get a modular PSU like this for $50 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

That'd still bring you in at less than your original build PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.97 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi Z87X 3D ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M500 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($66.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 270 2GB Dual-X Video Card ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $830.89
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-07 18:31 EDT-0400)

You could still go for a 270X if you wanted over the 270 in that second build.
 
Can someone give mea run run down of the pros and cons of 144hz? I want to know if there are any downsides before I order a monitor. My biggest concern is that games feel choppy often under 60 for me now, will that be the same under 144. I don't use vsync ever since it gives alot of input lag, is that going to reduce the use of this monitor or enhance it. I already have a shitty TN monitor so colour isn't an issue
 
maneil99 said:
Can someone give mea run run down of the pros and cons of 144hz? I want to know if there are any downsides before I order a monitor. My biggest concern is that games feel choppy often under 60 for me now, will that be the same under 144. I don't use vsync ever since it gives alot of input lag, is that going to reduce the use of this monitor or enhance it. I already have a shitty TN monitor so colour isn't an issue
Click to expand...
Pros:

Less motion blur
More fluid movement, illusion of motion
Everything feels amazing
Eyes feel better
Tearing not noticeable anymore
Makes your penis 2" bigger at least, or increase cup by a full size.

Cons:

.......................

Serious maneil, stop waffling. It's fucking amazing with no draw backs other than the desire to have every game run at 120+ FPS.
 
Any good reason on upgrading either/or a i5-3570k (OC to 4.3) and AMD 7950 GDDR5 card (1080p res)?

I'd like to get the most of some upcoming games such as Wildstar, Watch Dogs, Middle Earth: Shadows of Mordor, Star Citizen, Witcher 3, Dragon Age: Inquisition.
 
mkenyon said:
Pros:

Less motion blur
More fluid movement, illusion of motion
Everything feels amazing
Eyes feel better
Tearing not noticeable anymore
Makes your penis 2" bigger at least, or increase cup by a full size.

Cons:

.......................

Serious maneil, stop waffling. It's fucking amazing with no draw backs other than the desire to have every game run at 120+ FPS.
Click to expand...

They cost almost as much as a cheap 27" 1440p monitor and they only come in TN and 1 super expensive VA panel.

I have a 144hz asus as the monitor on my itx rig and after I took off the AG coating it was looking better, but I fall in the resolution camp in the debate between 120hz or 144op.
 
M3z_ said:
They cost almost as much as a cheap 27" 1440p monitor and they only come in TN and 1 super expensive VA panel.

I have a 144hz asus as the monitor on my itx rig and after I took off the AG coating it was looking better, but I fall in the resolution camp in the debate between 120hz or 144op.
Click to expand...
Not everyone can be good at games.

*throws gauntlet*

Really though, it does seem to boil down to multiplayer/competitive vs. single player/MMO/RPG games. 120/144Hz for the former, resolution for the latter.
CcrooK said:
Any good reason on upgrading either/or a i5-3570k (OC to 4.3) and AMD 7950 GDDR5 card (1080p res)?

I'd like to get the most of some upcoming games such as Wildstar, Watch Dogs, Middle Earth: Shadows of Mordor, Star Citizen, Witcher 3, Dragon Age: Inquisition.
Click to expand...
Definitely not the processor. If you find you want more performance in those games when they come out, upgrade the video card then.
 
maneil99 said:
Can someone give mea run run down of the pros and cons of 144hz? I want to know if there are any downsides before I order a monitor. My biggest concern is that games feel choppy often under 60 for me now, will that be the same under 144. I don't use vsync ever since it gives alot of input lag, is that going to reduce the use of this monitor or enhance it. I already have a shitty TN monitor so colour isn't an issue
Click to expand...
Pros: Everything
 
CcrooK said:
Hmmm. I've been leaning on going green with a new card. Any recommendations?
Click to expand...
Wait for those games, Maxwell *might* be out within 2ish months. Probably not, but who knows.

Otherwise, GTX 780 would be the only worthwhile option, and a partially incremental one at that.
 
mkenyon said:
Wait for those games, Maxwell *might* be out within 2ish months. Probably not, but who knows.

Otherwise, GTX 780 would be the only worthwhile option, and a partially incremental one at that.
Click to expand...

From what I've been reading over yeah...I'll probably wait later in the year and see if that Maxwell does show. Alright, thanks.
 
My brother is having issues again with his computer and we can't seem to figure out what the problem is. He has an msi p67 gd65 mobo and a 6970 and for some reason, gpuz and cpuz is reporting the GPU as running in PCIE x1 instead of x16. He told me he was experiencing weird slowdowns in some games that used to run fine and then he noticed the PCIE speed. Is the motherboard or GPU dying or something?

EDIT:
Oh yeah, he told me that he tried reseating the GPU and it made no difference. He then tried cleaning the GPU contacts using an eraser then reseating it again and GPUz now reports x8 this time but I don't know if that will stick or drop back again.
 
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