Enjoyed
Clara, for pretty much the first time ever. Whatever they've changed, it's working.
Capaldi. Already liked him from before Doctor Who, and he's good here.
New titles. Not sold on the music yet (lacks power, or something) but the visuals are nicely conceived and well executed.
Cinematography. I thought this looks quite nice for the most part.
Everyone else is already saying it, but Jenny is just dreamy.
Didn't Enjoy
Endless Jenny/Vastra/Strax schtick. For the hundredth time, yes, I know you're freakin' married. And look, Strax is bad at understanding humans! Almost as funny as it was in every other appearance he's ever made.
Slapstick. Is this really necessary? You don't have to hit Clara in the face for the newspaper joke to be funny. You don't need to add a comedy "BOING!" sound effect for Vastra knocking the Doctor out to be effective. This isn't the Looney Tunes.
Plot. Kind of a mess. Callbacks to episodes well over half a decade ago, stuff with the Dinosaur that turned out to not really mean anything... this could've been rethought and pruned back to a neater 45 minutes, I think.
I enjoyed it, but I probably wouldn't call it a good story. A promising start in other ways, though.