not recommended buddie
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
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not recommended buddie
Karspankey
Banned
Hey guys! I'm looking to upgrade my PC. Here are my current specs:
CPU: AMD FX 6300
Graphics Card: ASUS HD Radeon 7750
Motherboard: ASUS M5A78L-M USB/3
RAM: 6gb of unmatching RAM
Power Supply: ANTEC 400w PSU
Case: Mid-ATX HP case that is 16.29''x6.89''x15.23''
Here is what I'm looking to get: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/d42HLk
Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
EVGA GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card or Radeon R9 270X
Thanks and much love!
CPU: AMD FX 6300
Graphics Card: ASUS HD Radeon 7750
Motherboard: ASUS M5A78L-M USB/3
RAM: 6gb of unmatching RAM
Power Supply: ANTEC 400w PSU
Case: Mid-ATX HP case that is 16.29''x6.89''x15.23''
Here is what I'm looking to get: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/d42HLk
Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
EVGA GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card or Radeon R9 270X
- Would the GTX 960 fit in my case and would it be well suited for my FX 6300?
- Should I get the 270x to save money?
- Would either card be good for running games like Cities Skylines or ARMA at good framerates?
Thanks and much love!
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Karspankey
Banned
700W PSU requirement
BTW, not looking for crazy performance. Satisfied with 30fps700W PSU requirement
No idea where you got that info form since i run more powerful hardware on 550W.
Your CPU is 95W, the 280X hits 220W peak.
Exactly what Antec PSU do you have?
Karspankey
Banned
The Newegg page says it has a 700w requirement and I have an Antec VP-400
Some advice, dont trust newegg specs/reviews.
Cant seem to find much info on your PSU, assume its an Antec VP400PC, in which case the specs state the 12v Rails provide 336W maximum output. Therefore 280X maybe pushing it considering this is also a low end PSU.
GTX 960 draws 224W here from the wall (total system consumtion) so that will be fine for you, otherwise a new PSU is needed really.
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2015/01/22/nvidia-geforce-gtx-960-review-feat-asus/10
Whether it will fit in your case will be easier for you to work out with a tape measure. You can find the GPU measurements by searching the model.
Although your CPU is not really ideal, i think you should still get decent performance out the 960.
What do you mean support? I've had a Gsync monitor since the ROG Swift launched and it's not like Gsync is something that needs per game drivers or something. It is literally an option you turn on or off and it works in everything with no issues. That's not to say FreeSync isn't a perfectly good alternative, but I don't understand the idea of support being a factor in either technologies benefit. If anything the fact that Nvidia owns an overwhelming majority of the gpu market so I would think monitor manufactures would be more inclined to work with Nvidia whether FreeSync is a standard or not.
By support I mean - more monitors coming out. There are like 20 already on the line. It's easier for manufacturers to support it, since it doesn't require extra costs and even gives an extra value to their products.
Like I said, still waiting for thursday to know if there's any downside in comparison to Gsync. If there's any, then I'll sure order a Rog Swift instead. Let's see.
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
Well 5-6 years ago, the bronze rating of today was seen as good quality. It's only fairly recently that gold rated PSUs have become so widespread. Doing the research, bronze 80+ rated is perfectly fine.
Celcius
°Temp. member
So the goal would be to basically trade the xeon for the 1tb hdd?
So uhhh
I was on twitter, saw a gif, clicked on the play button so it would start and then this immediately happened
The hell is this? I switched the inputs on my monitor just to make sure it wasn't that and sure enough it wasn't.
It wasn't responding to any of my inputs so I had to power it down via the button on the case. Everything is working fine right now however.
Here's my build
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4qDLK8
I was on twitter, saw a gif, clicked on the play button so it would start and then this immediately happened
The hell is this? I switched the inputs on my monitor just to make sure it wasn't that and sure enough it wasn't.
It wasn't responding to any of my inputs so I had to power it down via the button on the case. Everything is working fine right now however.
Here's my build
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4qDLK8
So uhhh
I was on twitter, saw a gif, clicked on the play button so it would start and then this immediately happened
The hell is this? I switched the inputs on my monitor just to make sure it wasn't that and sure enough it wasn't.
It wasn't responding to any of my inputs so I had to power it down via the button on the case. Everything is working fine right now however.
Here's my build
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4qDLK8
How old is the monitor? Have you tried connecting the pc to another monitor or tv?
MrChowderClams
Member
So uhhh
I was on twitter, saw a gif, clicked on the play button so it would start and then this immediately happened
The hell is this? I switched the inputs on my monitor just to make sure it wasn't that and sure enough it wasn't.
It wasn't responding to any of my inputs so I had to power it down via the button on the case. Everything is working fine right now however.
Here's my build
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4qDLK8
lol my mac does this. I think it's an issue with how chrome/safari/FF uses gpu acceleration. For me it happens more often if I have multiple monitors plugged in
makeitawkward
Member
Why can I not find a GTX 770 4GB New for less than $500 right now?
It's out of production and discontinued. There are better options than looking for a GTX 770 now.
Looking to upgrade? What's your budget?
Looks like display driver issue / browser hardware acceleration snafu, or GPU is dying. What you can do now is try enabling/disabling HW Acceleration in your browser and update your display drivers.So uhhh
I was on twitter, saw a gif, clicked on the play button so it would start and then this immediately happened
The hell is this? I switched the inputs on my monitor just to make sure it wasn't that and sure enough it wasn't.
It wasn't responding to any of my inputs so I had to power it down via the button on the case. Everything is working fine right now however.
Here's my build
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4qDLK8
Can try FURMark to see if your GPU kills itself. Should also blow out case / GPU fan/vents.
So I guess I'll have a go to see what you guys can come up with. Pretty sure I want to get something with an Intel Core i7 4790K and some sort a GTX970.. unless its current better of waiting if new, better similar cards are coming out.
I'm looking for maximum cost for performance ratios with everything except the CPU because its such a pain to upgrade I'd rather just go for the best i7 on the market rather than an i5. Mostly I need to know what I can get away to still get great performance with the mobo, ram, psu etc..
So without further ado:
Your Current Specs: Only parts I have is a 120gb SSD and a 27inch monitor. I would like to get a second 120gb SSD to go with it.
Budget: Just over $2000 Australian, so about $US1500
Main Use: Gaming and just work on word. I want it to be fast to boot and and general use which I'm sure will be a non factor for that budget.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p absolute minimum and I want to try and achieve a lock 60fps for most new and upcoming games. 60 frames is pretty important to me, so I can lower the graphics but getting as close to max would be great for games this year.
I'm not sure if this is possible but I'm pretty sure I couldn't stretch to the next resolution size up (I'd probably have to buy a new monitor anyways right?)
I don't know how to OC properly so doubt I'll be doing any of that, but would like a nice cool computer I suppose, definitely need help choosing a good case for the above gear.
Thanks Guys/Gals!
I'm looking for maximum cost for performance ratios with everything except the CPU because its such a pain to upgrade I'd rather just go for the best i7 on the market rather than an i5. Mostly I need to know what I can get away to still get great performance with the mobo, ram, psu etc..
So without further ado:
Your Current Specs: Only parts I have is a 120gb SSD and a 27inch monitor. I would like to get a second 120gb SSD to go with it.
Budget: Just over $2000 Australian, so about $US1500
Main Use: Gaming and just work on word. I want it to be fast to boot and and general use which I'm sure will be a non factor for that budget.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p absolute minimum and I want to try and achieve a lock 60fps for most new and upcoming games. 60 frames is pretty important to me, so I can lower the graphics but getting as close to max would be great for games this year.
I'm not sure if this is possible but I'm pretty sure I couldn't stretch to the next resolution size up (I'd probably have to buy a new monitor anyways right?)
I don't know how to OC properly so doubt I'll be doing any of that, but would like a nice cool computer I suppose, definitely need help choosing a good case for the above gear.
Thanks Guys/Gals!
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Z board will allow you to overclock better. Unfortunately it will of course be more expensive.
Gigabyte Z97P-D3. I can't find many reviews for this one, but it should be ok. 81E.
RAM Kingston HyperX Fury Red 1866. This ram is faster, and for 1E more expensive if buy 2. Remember to buy 2 of these to run dual channel. 38E
Crucial SSD 256GB. You should at least have 256GB of SSD now, 128 is too restricted. Plus Kingston nerfed the model you picked with cheaper part, best to avoid like all hell. 109E.
These parts should drive the price up a bit but it will get you better value. Your card and case choice are fine.
hooijdonk17
Member
So uhhh
I was on twitter, saw a gif, clicked on the play button so it would start and then this immediately happened
The hell is this? I switched the inputs on my monitor just to make sure it wasn't that and sure enough it wasn't.
It wasn't responding to any of my inputs so I had to power it down via the button on the case. Everything is working fine right now however.
Here's my build
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4qDLK8
Driver issue.
But aren't nVidia drivers perfect?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($469.00 @ CPL Online)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($45.00 @ CPL Online)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($159.00 @ IJK)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($182.00 @ IJK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($289.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($72.00 @ Centre Com)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 290 4GB DirectCU II Video Card ($393.00 @ IJK)
Case: Aerocool DS-Cube MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($119.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $1887.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-17 20:44 EST+1100
I went for a 290 instead of the 970 because it's almost $90 cheaper than the next best 970 and performs very comparitively to its' Nvidia rival. The 970 is within your budget though, so feel free to swap it if you like Nvidia drivers or you want their features or w/e. You might have to upgrade your GPU in a couple of years either way if you want to keep 60FPS, but who knows. The 290 is a great card.
You don't necessarily need the 1TB HDD since you'll have ~550GB of SSD space after Windows installation but I figured you might want a little extra room for media or whatever. I went for the i7 over the i5 since you really seem to want no hassle with it, but honestly, an overclocked i5 is pretty much as good right now. Your choice though so I went for the i7. Budget CPU cooler but it'll do the job for some moderate overclocks (which you should do!!). Haven't used the case myself but I hear good things about it. Good PSU should last you a long time.
Also there's room in the budget for a fresh copy of Windows if needs be.
Zenaku
Member
Did a quick and simple overclock to 4ghz, and at max settings (no MSAA) crowded streets were mid 50s on average, around 60+ in areas with fewer people, and generally 60-80 fps when climbing or when traversing rooftops.
Makoto-Yuki
Banned
I already have my PC built but just wondering how long I can expect to get out it. I'm guessing maybe a couple years.
i5-4590, 8GB 1600Mhz, H97M-D3H, MSI R9 290 4GB.
So far I've managed max settings out of every game I've played. 1080p 60fps ultra on BF3, BF4, Witcher 2. How long do you think it'd take before I'm playing most games at 1080p 30fps on medium settings? I think that would be the point where I would upgrade.
i5-4590, 8GB 1600Mhz, H97M-D3H, MSI R9 290 4GB.
So far I've managed max settings out of every game I've played. 1080p 60fps ultra on BF3, BF4, Witcher 2. How long do you think it'd take before I'm playing most games at 1080p 30fps on medium settings? I think that would be the point where I would upgrade.
Frankfurter
Member
@blly155 You should be fine for atleast another 2 years. Of course there can always be that one game that's just demanding much more and you REALLY wanna play it 
Say: Crysis back in 2007.
Oh well, I see. Than I guess prices are just higher for you guys.
Basically you can choose any Z97 mainboard. The OP has quite a few recommended, but you can also choose cheaper ones from, say, Gigabyte, Asus, MSI or ASRock.
Cheaper mainboards will have less extra stuff on them; for example USB 3.0 internal/external, a worse onboard audio, less connectors for fans etc.
Fakeedit: lordfuzzybutt already answered, stick with him
Bronze is fine and all, it's just not saying anything about a PSU being reliable or not. 80+ Bronze just tells us that the PSU in question has a certain efficiency level (or should have, as some brands occasionally cheat), nothing more.
Say: Crysis back in 2007.Oh well, I see. Than I guess prices are just higher for you guys.
Basically you can choose any Z97 mainboard. The OP has quite a few recommended, but you can also choose cheaper ones from, say, Gigabyte, Asus, MSI or ASRock.
Cheaper mainboards will have less extra stuff on them; for example USB 3.0 internal/external, a worse onboard audio, less connectors for fans etc.
Fakeedit: lordfuzzybutt already answered, stick with him
Coulomb_Barrier said:
Bronze is fine and all, it's just not saying anything about a PSU being reliable or not. 80+ Bronze just tells us that the PSU in question has a certain efficiency level (or should have, as some brands occasionally cheat), nothing more.
zorlaczerohero
Banned
To be honest the AU pc part picker misses out some good cheap stores. MSY for a start, they do a Gainward GTX 970 for $435.
I'm sort of in the same fix, one of my GTX 660 ti's just died and I'm really noticing not having SLI, so I'm torn between 960's in SLI, a 970 or wait for 960 ti and SLI them. I get the feeling the 960 ti will be close to $435 I can get the 970 for, so I'm tempted to just go for the 970 and add another later.
Monosukoi gave you a pretty great build for a more compact cube PC, but I have some alternative suggestions, and I guess I'll show you a larger tower PC.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($323.00 @ Centre Com)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($45.00 @ CPL Online)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($159.00 @ CPL Online)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($179.00 @ IJK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($289.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($72.00 @ Centre Com)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 4GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card ($729.00 @ Centre Com)
Case: Corsair 730T Black ATX Full Tower Case ($99.00 @ PLE Computers)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $2004.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-17 22:04 EST+1100
The i7 4790K isn't actually the best i7 on the market, it's one of the lower end i7 models. Except for a slightly higher clock speed and hyperthreading, it is very close to the much cheaper i5 4690K, they are both quad core processors. There are better i7 models on the X99 platform, but those are out of your price range. Given that the i5 4690K and i7 4790K are so similar and will perform nearly the same in games, I'd recommend that you go with the i5 4690K to save money.
You say that you won't be overclocking, but it's relatively easy enough to do and you can follow guides. At the price level for what you want to spend, most parts are overclockable for better performance, you can just keep them as is until you have a need to overclock. It's better because a few years down the line, you can just overclock your parts and they'll perform better for no added cost, meaning you can wait longer before upgrading.
I managed to fit a GTX 980 into this build, but depending on when you're going to buy and build the PC, you may want to wait a few months to see how the graphics card situation plays out. Going by the latest rumors, AMD is going to release a new line of highly performing graphics cards by June, and Nvidia may or may not cut prices to compete. The R9 290 is an excellent higher end choice and is one of the best you can buy for price-to-performance, but if you're looking to max out games and still achieve 60fps for games to come, then you may want a stronger graphics card.
Thanks to zorlaczerohero for the tip to look at MSY, the Gainward GTX 980 for $670 AUD would be a better deal than that Gigabyte GTX 980 at $729. Other than graphics cards, the price for other components at MSY seem to be on par with what PCPartPicker has, though. It's true that PCPP's Australian price database is lacking, though.
Inskipp
Member
Thanks for the suggestions, I will include these in my build! The RAM is weird for me though, I always assumed that more capacity = better. I guess frequency speed is a bigger factor?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Hence why I told you to buy 2 of the RAM I suggested.
Take a look at your pick again, you wrote 8x2 GB in your post but the link specified 4x2 GB. So I guess you mistook it for 16GBs in total? It is only 8GBs. But frankly, for now, gaming rarely needs more than that.
Inskipp
Member
Ah, you are indeed correct, I mistook it for 16GB total. My bad!
I'll definitely go with your RAM-pick then!
Just traded my 780 Ti's for two 970 in SLI
I got the Gigabyte 970 G1 Gaming. I feel the vram situation has been overblown a little... not that there isn't a problem but the card is a beast! Nvidia should cap the card at 3.5GB or with the DX12 supposedly being able to stack ram make it so that the slow 512mb wont be access before 7.5GB.
Got my 970s today!
Hope you know that even in SLI today you only have a total of 3.5GB fast VRAM.
If you want to run DSR on new games or generally high res, your cards will likely hit the VRAM cap before the horsepower limit.
I know all about that hogwash. I'm on a 4K TV playing BF4 at 70fps.
Read this to get yourself up to date.
http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/digitalfoundry-2015-nvidia-geforce-gtx-970-revisited
I think he does not want to bash the card, because we all agree it is a very very good piece of hardware and your article says the same.
I think he wants to say that running that thing SLI could eventually become a problem, because in SLI the differences and VRAM issue can become more of a problem in the future.
Maybe I am not right, but that is how far I understood that whole situation with the 970.
Prime crotch
Banned
What's a good resource for comparing different brands of the same vidcard?
I basically wanna check if this or that MSI/ASUS/whatever model of a 970 is better or worse than the other, since I'm done with AMD.
I basically wanna check if this or that MSI/ASUS/whatever model of a 970 is better or worse than the other, since I'm done with AMD.
I play at 4K SLI and get none of this VRAM limitation stutters and as the article suggest its hard as hell to reach this and when you do it's no different than the 980.
Hey i have a MSI 970 of my own so its not like its a bad card, its a very good value for money card.
But even on your link, all the doubt is on future games, and its my view that SLI 970 will suffer the greatest compared to the single 970 as soon as more memory taxing games arrive which actually require all 4GB of VRAM at 1440p or less, not simply allocating 4GB of VRAM. Most games today are allocating up to 3584MB of VRAM, they may not be actively using it all, same when going over the boundary. And reason why its so hard to go over 3584MB on 970 is the driver blocks it until absolutely required.
But my main point was you said 7.5GB in the first quote, just wanted to make sure you are aware its only '3.5GB' even with SLI.
MSI imo is the best for overclocking/noise balance.
Gigabyte G1 for best overclocking, slightly louder.
Some comparison here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1516121/gtx-970-comparison-strix-vs-msi-gaming-vs-gigabyte-g1
Warranty is the only other factor to consider.
So, my Radeon card is driving me up the goddamned wall (frequent BSODs) and after a lot of troubleshooting I just want to say the hell with it and go back to Team Green.
If I want to spend around $200, $250 max, is a GTX 960 the way to go now? I'm still running off a 2500k setup, so I'm sure almost any modern card will be held back somewhat...but would still like good price/performance as I'm thinking about finally doing another build later this year/early 2016.
If I want to spend around $200, $250 max, is a GTX 960 the way to go now? I'm still running off a 2500k setup, so I'm sure almost any modern card will be held back somewhat...but would still like good price/performance as I'm thinking about finally doing another build later this year/early 2016.
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
This is quite a good site that lets you pit GPUs head-to-head to compare specs and scores:
http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-R9-270X-vs-GeForce-GTX-670
Be warned though, it may be slightly Nvidia biased...
what's a good mouse <~$60. symmetric design (because I'm lefty), fast and if possible wireless. I don't play shooters with it, just RTS/moba. I'm struggling to find one. oh and not Razer.
Should I get Sam. Evo 850 120GB or Crucial MX100? Samsung is a bit more expensive but leaning toward it right now.
Should I get Sam. Evo 850 120GB or Crucial MX100? Samsung is a bit more expensive but leaning toward it right now.
Steelseries Sensei Raw.
One of the few gaming symmetrical mice. I actually own one myself and love it. I'd get a Steelseries Rival if I was buying a mouse today but that isn't symmetrical.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OQTQSO/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
I'm using the Qisan® Crotalus II High performance 2.4G Wireless Mouse. £12 on Amazon, pos around $20 for you. Bought one a couple months back.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NZUBVN2/
I would ignore that 1 star review. I haven't had any problems with it turning itself off during gaming.
It is precise, aesthetically pleasing, and was recommended on a list of the best gaming mice.
opticalmace
Member
What amd card do you have? How do you know it's the card that's causing the BSODs? Is it still under warranty?
Anyway, a 960 is a safe bet... but if you're planning on upgrading again later this year or early next year it seems like maybe a bit of a waste. How much gpu power do you need for your games?
At 4K UHD, or any memory-bandwidth limited scenarios, you could be looking at a net loss of performance moving to 970 from 780 Tis. Weird decision imo. For anyone else considering this, I would advise against it.
780 Ti currently has no replacement in Nvidia's line up. Titan X will release in a few hours and later in the year the 780 Ti replacement will launch with ~35% improvement at ~$700.
Hello gaffers. I have a question or two about my current rig and my plans for 4k.
Right now i'm running with the specs below. My plan is to swap out the 680's and replace them with one of the new GPU's that are coming out soon. However i have been out of the hardware business for a while now, and i was wondering if my plan of only replacing the graphic will suffice for gaming in 4k. With the new cpu's and ddr4 technology, is there any real gains for me to spend literally thousands extra? How big of a difference will a newer cpu/motherboard and possibly ram (ddr4) make in games? I am a programmer so i don't do much resource demanding work.
-Corsair HX 850
-Asus MAXIMUS IV EXTREME-Z, s1155
-G.Skill 16GB PC3-12800
-Intel Core i7-2600K, s1155 @ 4.5Ghz
-MSI 2GB D5 X GTX680 Twin Frozr OC R (2x)
CPU and GPU's are running on a custom loop
-XSPC RayStorm D5 RX360
-EK-FC680 GTX - Acetal CSQ
-NZXT Sentry 2 fan monitor
-XSPC RS120 Black
EDIT: got the exact part names from a .txt file i made a long time ago. forgot to remove the prices lol
Right now i'm running with the specs below. My plan is to swap out the 680's and replace them with one of the new GPU's that are coming out soon. However i have been out of the hardware business for a while now, and i was wondering if my plan of only replacing the graphic will suffice for gaming in 4k. With the new cpu's and ddr4 technology, is there any real gains for me to spend literally thousands extra? How big of a difference will a newer cpu/motherboard and possibly ram (ddr4) make in games? I am a programmer so i don't do much resource demanding work.
-Corsair HX 850
-Asus MAXIMUS IV EXTREME-Z, s1155
-G.Skill 16GB PC3-12800
-Intel Core i7-2600K, s1155 @ 4.5Ghz
-MSI 2GB D5 X GTX680 Twin Frozr OC R (2x)
CPU and GPU's are running on a custom loop
-XSPC RayStorm D5 RX360
-EK-FC680 GTX - Acetal CSQ
-NZXT Sentry 2 fan monitor
-XSPC RS120 Black
EDIT: got the exact part names from a .txt file i made a long time ago. forgot to remove the prices lol
Nope, just a new set of GPUs in SLI/XFire will be fine.
If you can get a 3770k cheap that could be a nice swap, but only if you are prepared to delid.
Yeah i had a look at the 3770k before, tbh i never did a delid and with my current student expenses i would be very sad to break it.
- Status