• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hey PC GAF I'm a little confused as to which gtx 970 I should be looking into. Uhhh, they're a lot of options out there and it's all the 970, so is one better than the other?
 

finalflame

Member
Hey PC GAF I'm a little confused as to which gtx 970 I should be looking into. Uhhh, they're a lot of options out there and it's all the 970, so is one better than the other?

It depends on what you're looking for. Some are slightly overclocked (better performance out of the box), and for the most part each manufacturer has their own cooling solution.

The ones that come with higher base clock speeds are usually the ones with things like "OC" and "SC" or "FTW" in the name. You can usually look up each model specifically and see their base core/memory speeds. Which cards in particular have you been looking at? I'm personally a pretty big fan of EVGA's offerings with the ACX2.0 coolers, but a lot of people seem to be big fans of Gigabyte and ASUS (Strix) for the 9XX series of cards.
 
It depends on what you're looking for. Some are slightly overclocked (better performance out of the box), and for the most part each manufacturer has their own cooling solution.

The ones that come with higher base clock speeds are usually the ones with things like "OC" and "SC" or "FTW" in the name. You can usually look up each model specifically and see their base core/memory speeds. Which cards in particular have you been looking at? I'm personally a pretty big fan of EVGA's offerings with the ACX2.0 coolers, but a lot of people seem to be big fans of Gigabyte and ASUS (Strix) for the 9XX series of cards.

I'm looking at the EVGA one's since they're a little lower on the $300 price range scale. The Gigabyte's around $360 but you get one extra fan, and I guess that might be worth it for a 290x, but I thought the 970's were a little (lot?) cooler.
hmmmmmmm maybe on second thought, I should just wait until June until the new AMD announcements. But I'm thinking I'll just drive myself crazy by waiting. But thanks for the help!
 

RGM79

Member
Hey PC GAF I'm a little confused as to which gtx 970 I should be looking into. Uhhh, they're a lot of options out there and it's all the 970, so is one better than the other?

It depends on what you're looking for. Some are slightly overclocked (better performance out of the box), and for the most part each manufacturer has their own cooling solution.

The ones that come with higher base clock speeds are usually the ones with things like "OC" and "SC" or "FTW" in the name. You can usually look up each model specifically and see their base core/memory speeds. Which cards in particular have you been looking at? I'm personally a pretty big fan of EVGA's offerings with the ACX2.0 coolers, but a lot of people seem to be big fans of Gigabyte and ASUS (Strix) for the 9XX series of cards.

If you're interested in low noise then consider the Asus Strix, MSI Gaming 4G, and EVGA SSC models as they have semi-fanless operation for silence at low temperatures.

In terms of performance, the Gigabyte Gaming G1 and EVGA FTW+ seem to be best.
 
If you're interested in low noise then consider the Asus Strix, MSI Gaming 4G, and EVGA SSC models as they have semi-fanless operation for silence at low temperatures.

In terms of performance, the Gigabyte Gaming G1 and EVGA FTW+ seem to be best.

So I'd probably go with the EVGA SSC, since it's about $35 cheaper than the Strix. But another question I have is, is it worth it going from a 7950 to a 970? I really, really like my AA at 1080p and the 9750 sometimes has problems with that. Would it be a big step up to the 970, or should I wait for the AMD cards?
 

Reckoner

Member
So I'd probably go with the EVGA SSC, since it's about $35 cheaper than the Strix. But another question I have is, is it worth it going from a 7950 to a 970? I really, really like my AA at 1080p and the 9750 sometimes has problems with that. Would it be a big step up to the 970, or should I wait for the AMD cards?

It is a noticeable step up, but I would say that with that card you would be better off waiting for the new Amd series. And if you're interested, FreeSync reviews are coming out on the 19th, so it also will be a good way to decide if you're staying red or going green.

The latest rumors say that the 390x will be better than the Titan X at 600 dollars. Don't take it too seriously, but it leaves wondering.
 
It is a noticeable step up, but I would say that with that card you would be better off waiting for the new Amd series. And if you're interested, FreeSync reviews are coming out on the 19th, so it also will be a good way to decide if you're staying red or going green.

The latest rumors say that the 390x will be better than the Titan X at 600 dollars. Don't take it too seriously, but it leaves wondering.

Yeah I guess it wouldn't hurt to wait just a little bit longer at this point
 
What model of power supply do you have exactly? If it's old enough to not support the new Haswell C6/C7 low power states, it could be unstable because of the very low power draw and may not resume from sleep properly. Check your BIOS menu for something along the lines of "Haswell low power" or "C6/C7 state" and disable it.

Your second issue could be related to DPI settings, which is similar to resolution settings but not actually a different resolution, it just changes how large certain objects are. DPI settings shouldn't just change by themselves, though.

Does it make a difference if you load into Windows before the TV is turned on or vice versa?

The power supply is this one:http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009RMP44O/
And I normally turn the tv on after the computer ,but I'll try before and see if it consistently stays normal. The RC6 option is/was disabled.
 
Yeah, since your old card works just fine, and the new one actually worked for a brief moment, it does not seem like an issue with the rest of the computer, nor a compatibility issue, but rather that the new card died.



You mean Celsius right?



Any cooler, especially Intel's stock ones will get a dust carpet between the fan and the heatsink, eventually cutting off airflow entirely.

One of my novice buddies didn't clean his computer, he told me he got random crashes, at which point i prompted him to check his temps.
Turns out his computer had been idling at 100c for at least three weeks.





This is less of a problem if you have dust filters on all your intake fans though.


Then the front of your computer will look like this after a while, but it is easier to clean than going inside ;)
This got me curious and I noticed some buildup on my CPU fan. What's the best and safest way to clean PC components?
 
Ok so I think I can better explain the issue I'm having with my monitor it seems foliage and water gets "blurry" when I'm looking and moving around in bf4 and and in the distance the whole game looks ugly like I zoomed in on a low res picture.
And motion blur is at 0
 
Not sure if this is the correct thread for this question so forgive me if so.

TL:DR:

Is 80-88 celcius temps when running Prime95 "In-place large FFTs" too much or still acceptable?


Long version:

Since I recently got a 4690K and overclocking that isn't exactly rocket science, I still think I should ask smarter people for some basic stuff.

It's about the temperatures when stress testing. I raised the cpu to 4GHz and when running the Prime95's "In-place large FFTs" and after 5 minutes (110000 Lehmer test) when it gets to the bigger tests them temps rise to 80-88 celsius range. Small FFT starts from 80 celcius range.

What I'm asking is this still acceptable range when under the Prime95 testing or should I be worried for normal use temps also?. Running City Skylines raises the temps to 55-60 celcius range, haven't tried anything more intensive games for the CPU yet, maybe try to run 3DMark and see how it behaves with it?
 

Dynamic3

Member
I'm having the most infuriating issue: every time I launch a game, all of my settings for every game are reversed back to default in the nVidia inspector.

I've tried a full reinstall of the drivers via DDU, and have opened the permissions to all for the nVidia folder.

Any ideas?
 

Devildoll

Member
This got me curious and I noticed some buildup on my CPU fan. What's the best and safest way to clean PC components?

Since you have to worry about electrostatic discharge, you don't want a vacuum cleaner nozzle going up close to components.
My vacuum converts into a blower, so i just take my case outside and blow it clean from a slight distance, for heat-sinks, i just uproot the worst parts with a toothpick, it usually makes it loose enough to get blown away at that point.
Most people use air in a can or a datavac for the same effect.

One important thing to know is to hold down any fan that you are blowing on, if you make them spin too fast, they might get damaged.

Ok so I think I can better explain the issue I'm having with my monitor it seems foliage and water gets "blurry" when I'm looking and moving around in bf4 and and in the distance the whole game looks ugly like I zoomed in on a low res picture.
And motion blur is at 0

It kind of sounds like you have resolution scale set to something lower than 100% .
If you cant find the issue, i suggest that you default the video-settings in the game, as well as any setting you've touched in the graphics cards control-panel.
 

Ieu

Member
Benchmarks always push your hardware more than real programs and games.

Personally I'd be happy at 80*C but others might disagree.

Not sure if this is the correct thread for this question so forgive me if so.

TL:DR:

Is 80-88 celcius temps when running Prime95 "In-place large FFTs" too much or still acceptable?


Long version:

Since I recently got a 4690K and overclocking that isn't exactly rocket science, I still think I should ask smarter people for some basic stuff.

It's about the temperatures when stress testing. I raised the cpu to 4GHz and when running the Prime95's "In-place large FFTs" and after 5 minutes when it gets to the bigger tests them temps rise to 80-88 celsius range.

What I'm asking is this still acceptable range when under the Prime95 testing or should I be worried for normal use temps also?. Running City Skylines raises the temps to 55-60 celcius range, haven't tried anything more intensive games for the CPU yet, maybe try to run 3DMark and see how it behaves with it?
 
Benchmarks always push your hardware more than real programs and games.

Personally I'd be happy at 80*C but others might disagree.

I assume that if it stays under 90*C when Prime95 is running I should be just fine and go higher spees? I'm a bit nervous since I don't want to burn my expensive (to me atleast) cpu straight away in the first week.
 
Not sure if this is the correct thread for this question so forgive me if so.

TL:DR:

Is 80-88 celcius temps when running Prime95 "In-place large FFTs" too much or still acceptable?


Long version:

Since I recently got a 4690K and overclocking that isn't exactly rocket science, I still think I should ask smarter people for some basic stuff.

It's about the temperatures when stress testing. I raised the cpu to 4GHz and when running the Prime95's "In-place large FFTs" and after 5 minutes (110000 Lehmer test) when it gets to the bigger tests them temps rise to 80-88 celsius range. Small FFT starts from 80 celcius range.

What I'm asking is this still acceptable range when under the Prime95 testing or should I be worried for normal use temps also?. Running City Skylines raises the temps to 55-60 celcius range, haven't tried anything more intensive games for the CPU yet, maybe try to run 3DMark and see how it behaves with it?



You are still kind of okay-ish, as you probably won't find a single real-world app that will heat up your CPU as much as Prime 95 can, but nevertheless 88C is a lot (it's pretty close to the temp. where your CPU will start reducing clock speed); around 10C too much for me personally as a peak Prime95 temp.

Which CPU cooler do you use and how did you set the voltage of the CPU? If you are just using auto mode (i.e. set the multiplier to 40 and leave everything else at auto), it's very likely that your CPU is running far higher voltages than necessary.
3DMark is not a good test for the CPU, it's mostly for the GPU.
 
You are still kind of okay-ish, as you probably won't find a single real-world app that will heat up your CPU as much as Prime 95 can, but nevertheless 88C is a lot (it's pretty close to the temp. where your CPU will start reducing clock speed); around 10C too much for me personally as a peak Prime95 temp.

Which CPU cooler do you use and how did you set the voltage of the CPU? If you are just using auto mode (i.e. set the multiplier to 40 and leave everything else at auto), it's very likely that your CPU is running far higher voltages than necessary.
3DMark is not a good test for the CPU, it's mostly for the GPU.

It's on auto for voltages, 1,132 - 1,137 V at the moment, the idea with 3DMark was that it would probably be closer to "real world" scenario than Prime95 test.

I'm not exactly a long time overclocker, during late summer/autumn I decided to try to push my old C2D e8200 as far as I could because I was going to upgrade anyway sooner or later and if it crashed and burned, so to speak, it wouldn't have been the end of the world and that involved just changing the FSB to higher settings.

Anyways thanks for the answers.

I'm using http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/freezer-7-pro-rev-2.html , in hindsight I could/should probably have spent a bit more on a beefier cooler but then again my case isn't exactly huge and the room is a bit of a problem.
 
Since you have to worry about electrostatic discharge, you don't want a vacuum cleaner nozzle going up close to components.
My vacuum converts into a blower, so i just take my case outside and blow it clean from a slight distance, for heat-sinks, i just uproot the worst parts with a toothpick, it usually makes it loose enough to get blown away at that point.
Most people use air in a can or a datavac for the same effect.

One important thing to know is to hold down any fan that you are blowing on, if you make them spin too fast, they might get damaged.

You'd be surprised at the number of YouTube videos online where users suggest vacuums to clean PC fans. o_O
Thanks for the recommendations, I'll look into it.
 
It's on auto for voltages, 1,132 - 1,137 V at the moment, the idea with 3DMark was that it would probably be closer to "real world" scenario than Prime95 test.

I'm not exactly a long time overclocker, during late summer/autumn I decided to try to push my old C2D e8200 as far as I could because I was going to upgrade anyway sooner or later and if it crashed and burned, so to speak, it wouldn't have been the end of the world and that involved just changing the FSB to higher settings.

Anyways thanks for the answers.

I'm using http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/freezer-7-pro-rev-2.html , in hindsight I could/should probably have spent a bit more on a beefier cooler but then again my case isn't exactly huge and the room is a bit of a problem.


Real world scenarios is a decent idea, but again: not 3DMark. It's not gonna push your CPU, because it's usually entirely GPU bound. Also the good thing about stress test tools like Prime is that you choose a worst-case scenario, i.e. if your hardware can manage to survive a couple hours of Prime95 without bluescreens, it'll survive gaming, multimedia or whatever else you'd like to do.

That CPU cooler isn't all that good, to say the least, you might wanna think about replacing it with something decent. Aside that you definitely should get away from that auto-mode overclocking. You should also check to see what kind of voltages you actually got during load. Use CPUID's HW Monitor and let it run alongside Prime and check for the actual voltage (NOT the VID!) that is applied during that kind of load.
 

Damerman

Member
What are the rest of your specs? The H97 won't really perform much differently from the Z97, especially if you're not overclocking. If bluetooth is all you want, then save yourself $45 and get the H97 motherboard and buy a separate USB bluetooth adaptor for $10 or less
My cpu is i7 4790k devil's canyon(honestly i just want the 4ghz stock speeds)
Gpu is evga gtx 970 acx 2.0 ftw.(own this already)
Psu is corsair hx750i platinum plus(own this already)
480gb ocz ssd(own this already)
512gb samsung 850 evo ssd(own this already)
Cpu cooler is the intel bxts13x
The case is the In Win 901 mini itx.

What concerns me the most with this build is the temps of a devils canyon cpu in a mini itx form factor... And if the h97 will perform the same as a z97(that one has been put to rest, thanks for the reply).

Edit: another thing is that this build screams overclocking, with the cpu being a K model, and the water cooling solution and what not. I never plan on overcloking, but you know what they say about never saying never.
 

longdi

Banned
It's on auto for voltages, 1,132 - 1,137 V at the moment, the idea with 3DMark was that it would probably be closer to "real world" scenario than Prime95 test.

I'm not exactly a long time overclocker, during late summer/autumn I decided to try to push my old C2D e8200 as far as I could because I was going to upgrade anyway sooner or later and if it crashed and burned, so to speak, it wouldn't have been the end of the world and that involved just changing the FSB to higher settings.

Anyways thanks for the answers.

I'm using http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/freezer-7-pro-rev-2.html , in hindsight I could/should probably have spent a bit more on a beefier cooler but then again my case isn't exactly huge and the room is a bit of a problem.

Dont use auto voltage. It will auto increase it to 1.3-1.36 which will cause a huge temp spike. Otherwise at 4Ghz, 1.132 - 1.136v, it shouldnt hit 88c even in P95. Your cooler may not be properly installed.

I personally will not run P95 for Haswell cpu. The AVX2 instruction load is a killer which you aren't going to use that heavy in real life. It does nothing but heat up and degrade your CPU while stress testing only one component of it.

I rather use a combination of Asus realbench, Aida64, HCI memory and Cinebench15, then AV and Malware scanning while browsing multiple tabs and videos and music. Just 30-60mins of each and i will consider it stable..
 
Dont use auto voltage. It will auto increase it to 1.3-1.36 which will cause a huge temp spike. Otherwise at 4Ghz, 1.132 - 1.136v, it shouldnt hit 88c even in P95. Your cooler may not be properly installed.

I personally will not run P95 for Haswell cpu. The AVX2 instruction load is a killer which you aren't going to use that heavy in real life. It does nothing but heat up and degrade your CPU while stress testing only one component of it.

I rather use a combination of Asus realbench, Aida64, HCI memory and Cinebench15, then AV and Malware scanning while browsing multiple tabs and videos and music. Just 30-60mins of each and i will consider it stable..

I'll bookmark these.

Anyway, I'll just put the OC project on hold until I get a new case and a new cpu cooler, running this thing @ 4,0GHz is enough for me for now, it's not like my games have felt cpu bound yet (EU4 & Cities Skylines).
 

KePoW

Banned
Dont use auto voltage. It will auto increase it to 1.3-1.36 which will cause a huge temp spike. Otherwise at 4Ghz, 1.132 - 1.136v, it shouldnt hit 88c even in P95. Your cooler may not be properly installed.

I personally will not run P95 for Haswell cpu. The AVX2 instruction load is a killer which you aren't going to use that heavy in real life. It does nothing but heat up and degrade your CPU while stress testing only one component of it.

I rather use a combination of Asus realbench, Aida64, HCI memory and Cinebench15, then AV and Malware scanning while browsing multiple tabs and videos and music. Just 30-60mins of each and i will consider it stable..

I agree with everything above

Do not use auto-voltage even with a 4.0ghz OC

Do not use Prime95, it's irrelevant in my opinion. Try running OCCT for 5 minutes instead and see those temps
 
Who's the first one buying the new Benq XL2730 with FreeSync? Gaf impressions would be pretty nice. We're days away from the FreeSync driver release.

Nice price, it's $799 in Canada. I'm really looking forward to hearing the first FS reviews, should be at the end of this week if I'm not mistaken.

I'm in the market for a new GPU and monitor this year, which is basically going to come down to freesync vs gsync and the price differential.
 

Nekrono

Member
You can refer to my original post here.

To avoid a long post the issue is this:

My video card (7970) stopped working all of a sudden, no video output on my monitor, tried several monitors/cables no luck.Tried different PSU and still nothing, yet the card worked as it booted up normally on a friends computer. I figure it must be the motherboard, I replaced the motherboard with a brand new one and the issue persists! I go back to the old motherboard and connected the card on the secondary PCI-E slot and it works!

At this point I'm thinking it's a huge coincidence that the primary PCI-E slots are dead on two motherboards, one of which is brand new so I had a friend borrow me his GTX 970 and plugged it in on my older mobo where the issue started on the primary PCI-E slot and it works flawlessy! Then I plugged in my 7970 without changing anything and NO VIDEO, however it works on the secondary slot though.

Why is the 7970 not working on the primary PCI-E and only on the secondary? Clearly the card and the mobo is fine. I haven't changed any settings. It hurts performance having the card running in the secondary slot since it's running at 4x not 16x. I don't understand why the 970 worked there but my 7970 is not.
 

OraleeWey

Member
Hey guys. My friend wants to buid a PC. Basic stuff like web browsing, youtube, and whatnot. His budget is $400. He already has a monitor and k/b mouse. Keep in mind he'll need an OS. He wants to be able to atleast play DayZ. Can we make this happen?
 

Easy_D

never left the stone age
You can refer to my original post here.

To avoid a long post the issue is this:

My video card (7970) stopped working all of a sudden, no video output on my monitor, tried several monitors/cables no luck.Tried different PSU and still nothing, yet the card worked as it booted up normally on a friends computer. I figure it must be the motherboard, I replaced the motherboard with a brand new one and the issue persists! I go back to the old motherboard and connected the card on the secondary PCI-E slot and it works!

At this point I'm thinking it's a huge coincidence that the primary PCI-E slots are dead on two motherboards, one of which is brand new so I had a friend borrow me his GTX 970 and plugged it in on my older mobo where the issue started on the primary PCI-E slot and it works flawlessy! Then I plugged in my 7970 without changing anything and NO VIDEO, however it works on the secondary slot though.

Why is the 7970 not working on the primary PCI-E and only on the secondary? Clearly the card and the mobo is fine. I haven't changed any settings. It hurts performance having the card running in the secondary slot since it's running at 4x not 16x. I don't understand why the 970 worked there but my 7970 is not.


Edit: Oh, you tried a different PSU already. Maybe try cleaning the connector pins or something? I once had random issues with PCI-E slots as well, my main one would make my old GPU artifact like crazy in games so I had to put it in the second slot, a while later I put it back into the primary and everything worked fine.


Also thanks to whoever recommended me the 280X, it's a champ that one and it's nice to be able to push AA again.

Edit #2: Reading around I found that the issue might be your GPU
Random Tech Whiz at OCForums said:
It could be an issue with one or more of the PCIe lanes on the GPU itself, e.g. when it's running in 8x mode in a secondary slot it's fine, but when trying to run 16x one or more broken lanes is coming into play.

The only way to really prove this though is with a different GPU.
 

OraleeWey

Member
Hey guys. My friend wants to buid a PC. Basic stuff like web browsing, youtube, and whatnot. His budget is $400. He already has a monitor and k/b mouse. Keep in mind he'll need an OS. He wants to be able to atleast play DayZ. Can we make this happen?


alternatively, he wants to spend as little as possible.

This are his specs or parts.
Maybe a new case and a few upgrades?

rbe6W19l.jpg


rJLmTxn.jpg
 

mbmonk

Member
I am looking for a 1080p graphics card due to my display's resolution.

Most of what I have read suggests that 2GB of video memory is fine for 1080p gaming.

I am basically down to the R9 280 versus the R9 285. I am leaning R9 285 because it has a slightly higher shader clock speed than the R9 280, and it's DX12 compatible. But of course the R9 280 has 3GB of video memory.

Thoughts? Thank you for your time. :)

EDIT: I am in no rush to buy a card. I could wait a month or so, and my budget is roughly $200 - $250.
 

El_Chino

Member
I am looking for a 1080p graphics card due to my display's resolution.

Most of what I have read suggests that 2GB of video memory is fine for 1080p gaming.

I am basically down to the r9 280 vs the r9 285. I am leaning r9 285 because it has a slightly higher shader clock speed than the r9 280. But of course the r9 280 has 3GB of video memory.

I am leaning r9 285 at this point. Thoughts? Thank you for your time. :)

EDIT: I am in no rush to buy a card. I could wait a month and my budget is roughly $200 - $250.
The 280 (280x) or the gtx 960 are both good choices.
 

LilJoka

Member
His cpu doesnt cut it.

Not sure what game you did that test for, but i dont see why an i3 3240 3.4Ghz 4 thread CPU wont cut it. I dont trust that site either, and im not sure why anyone still uses it.

I assume that site looks for 4 cores, the i3 has 2 cores 4 threads, the AMD has 4 cores, but is actually slower than the i3.
 

OraleeWey

Member
Not sure what game you did that test for, but i dont see why an i3 3240 3.4Ghz 4 thread CPU wont cut it. I dont trust that site either, and im not sure why anyone still uses it.

I assume that site looks for 4 cores, the i3 has 2 cores 4 threads, the AMD has 4 cores, but is actually slower than the i3.
So he literally only needs a video card?
 
I was wondering if someone here could suggest a good gaming build for around £800?
I found this one http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/guide/tYgXsY/great-gaming-build

but I asked around elsewhere and apparently if I want to play at 1080/60 consistently I'd have to upgrade again in like a year. Though admittedly I'd be okay with some drops I just wouldn't want it to be too noticeable. Also apparently the 970 isn't very good and there's some problems with it or something? Could anyone suggest some changes to the build I linked or find a different build of a similar price tag that would be suitable for high end gaming? Thanks
 

LilJoka

Member
I was wondering if someone here could suggest a good gaming build for around £800?
I found this one http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/guide/tYgXsY/great-gaming-build

but I asked around elsewhere and apparently if I want to play at 1080/60 consistently I'd have to upgrade again in like a year. Though admittedly I'd be okay with some drops I just wouldn't want it to be too noticeable. Also apparently the 970 isn't very good and there's some problems with it or something? Could anyone suggest some changes to the build I linked or find a different build of a similar price tag that would be suitable for high end gaming? Thanks

Hmm not a very optimum build.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£174.00 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC12DX 68.5 CFM CPU Cooler (£38.54 @ Scan.co.uk) - Probably a black version too.
Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£80.08 @ More Computers)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£52.99 @ CCL Computers)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£51.06 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: *Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£37.97 @ CCL Computers)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (£279.42 @ Aria PC)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£64.99 @ Novatech)
Other: Seasonic G550 (£67.86) http://www.scan.co.uk/products/550w-seasonic-ssr-550rt-80plus-gold-single-rail120mm-silent-fan-atx-psu
Total: £846.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-16 01:09 GMT+0000

GTX 970 at 1080p with its *3.5GB* Ram may have issues in a year. Its hard to say. But still its a very good value for money card today. Overclock it and you have stock GTX 980 performance.

If you arent planning to overclock a H97 board, a non K CPU and Hyper 212 Evo would suffice.
 

v1lla21

Member
Hey dudes, so I want to get a new graphics card but I want to sell my current MSI Twin Frozr 7950. What would be a good price to sell at? Also, what would be a good SSD to grab?
 

Nekrono

Member
Edit: Oh, you tried a different PSU already. Maybe try cleaning the connector pins or something? I once had random issues with PCI-E slots as well, my main one would make my old GPU artifact like crazy in games so I had to put it in the second slot, a while later I put it back into the primary and everything worked fine.


Also thanks to whoever recommended me the 280X, it's a champ that one and it's nice to be able to push AA again.

Edit #2: Reading around I found that the issue might be your GPU

I've tried just about everything, PSU, Mobo, GPU, I also cleaned the pins. The 970 did work without problems so I guess it's what that person suggested about the PCI-E lanes.

Right now a bottlenecked 7970 will have to do I guess, at least until new cards come out, or maybe I'll bite the plug and end up buying a 970 just because GTA V lol.
 

RGM79

Member
I am looking for a 1080p graphics card due to my display's resolution.

Most of what I have read suggests that 2GB of video memory is fine for 1080p gaming.

I am basically down to the R9 280 versus the R9 285. I am leaning R9 285 because it has a slightly higher shader clock speed than the R9 280, and it's DX12 compatible. But of course the R9 280 has 3GB of video memory.

Thoughts? Thank you for your time. :)

EDIT: I am in no rush to buy a card. I could wait a month or so, and my budget is roughly $200 - $250.

Assuming you're in the US, the Sapphire R9 290 is currently $240 after $30 discount. It beats the R9 285 by 20-40% in overall performance easily and has 4GB of VRAM, meaning it'll be more than enough to last you for years of 1080p gaming.

That said, if you put a lot of importance on better support for future-looking tech like DX12, you may want to wait instead. Not that the R9 290 is old or bad, but rumors say AMD will be launching new graphics cards in June and the R9 390X will have robust DX12 support.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom