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[Palehorse]

So I just put in an order for these parts from NCIX: part picker list.

The RAM listed on the parts picker list is not correct, I actually got this:
Corsair XMS3 CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 240PIN Core i5 i7 Memory Kit for $90.

(The parts I'm keeping are a GTX650 OC and a 128GB SSD)

I've rethought the RAM, and want to go up to 16GB...can anyone help with a recommend to go with those parts - a minimal price jump?
Edit: from ncix can preferably

I'll keep adding to this until someone else jumps on the thread.

I've found this:
http://www.ncix.com/detail/adata-xpg-v1-0-16gb-ddr3-1600-aa-93608-1088.htm with the same timing as what I already bought. $150

 

[RGM79]

So I just put in an order for these parts from NCIX: part picker list.

The RAM listed on the parts picker list is not correct, I actually got this:
Corsair XMS3 CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 240PIN Core i5 i7 Memory Kit for $90.

(The parts I'm keeping are a GTX650 OC and a 128GB SSD)

I've rethought the RAM, and want to go up to 16GB...can anyone help with a recommend to go with those parts - a minimal price jump?
Edit: from ncix can preferably

I assume you want to buy from NCIX because they have a local store near you?

If it absolutely has to be from NCIX, then get this 16GB Kingston Fury Red 1866MHz RAM. It costs $198 at NCIX, but Canada Computers is selling it for $160. Get NCIX to pricematch Canada Computers.

Otherwise, I'd recommend you buy this 16GB G.Skill Ares 1866MHz RAM for $151 including shipping from newegg, it's cheaper than going to NCIX.

I've found this:
http://www.ncix.com/detail/adata-xpg-v1-0-16gb-ddr3-1600-aa-93608-1088.htm with the same timing as what I already bought. $150

Price isn't bad, but I wouldn't settle for 1600MHz. For a few dollars more, you could get higher speed RAM like this 16GB G.Skill Sniper 2400MHz RAM for $154 shipping included.

 

[sk3tch]

Who's the first one buying the new Benq XL2730 with FreeSync? Gaf impressions would be pretty nice. We're days away from the FreeSync driver release.

I don't have that specific monitor - but I have owned 4x BenQ 120Hz+ monitors in the past few years with that same style and they're amazing (now running a XL2420G and an XL2420TX). I would not touch FreeSync, yet until we know if both NVIDIA and AMD will support it. I know AMD is in but I do not believe any drivers or anything are out. The G-SYNC tax is real - but it has been very worth it to me.

BTW - 8 years on GAF today.

 

[Palehorse]

I assume you want to buy from NCIX because they have a local store near you?

If it absolutely has to be from NCIX, then get this 16GB Kingston Fury Red 1866MHz RAM. It costs $198 at NCIX, but Canada Computers is selling it for $160. Get NCIX to pricematch Canada Computers.

Otherwise, I'd recommend you buy this 16GB G.Skill Ares 1866MHz RAM for $151 including shipping from newegg, it's cheaper than going to NCIX.



Price isn't bad, but I wouldn't settle for 1600MHz. For a few dollars more, you could get higher speed RAM like this 16GB G.Skill Sniper 2400MHz RAM for $154 shipping included.

Damn, those Newegg options look great. I was trying to get the shipment to me in Victoria within the week. NCIX is very good at shipping to me in a couple days, but Newegg is coming from Ontario. Normally that's not a big deal but i'm out of town next week. But that 2400 G.Skill....that's really good.

Also for some reason the newegg orders don't have free shipping, ground is $6 at a minimum. *shrug* Edit, nvm I'm an idiot.

Now I'm torn, haha. I'm going to have to think on this one.

Edit: Also, thanks a ton RGM79, great options.

2nd Edit: I'll go for the 2400Mhz G.Skill tomorrow once I've phoned NCIX to cancel that part of the shipment. Thanks!

 

[Reckoner]

I don't have that specific monitor - but I have owned 4x BenQ 120Hz+ monitors in the past few years with that same style and they're amazing (now running a XL2420G and an XL2420TX). I would not touch FreeSync, yet until we know if both NVIDIA and AMD will support it. I know AMD is in but I do not believe any drivers or anything are out. The G-SYNC tax is real - but it has been very worth it to me.

BTW - 8 years on GAF today.

I haven't ordered it yet because FreeSync drivers are only coming on the 19th. Honestly, I feel more comfortable getting freesync as it is a industry standard and has more chances of getting more support - which already shows. I'll bet on it.

 

[KePoW]

anyone know if the the Frame Rate Limiter (per game) works well in Nvidia Inspector?

 

[Zenaku]

Yeah, since your old card works just fine, and the new one actually worked for a brief moment, it does not seem like an issue with the rest of the computer, nor a compatibility issue, but rather that the new card died.

Yes, I took a chance and ordered a replacement from Amazon, which arrived 2-3 hours ago. I slotted it in and was greeted by that lovely beep.

Installed drivers, rebooted, tested games on various settings while monitoring with GPU-Z and CPUID HWM, haven't had any problems or lockdowns, with temps and voltages appearing stable.

Thanks for the help.

 

[TronLight]

My GTX570 just died and now I'm trying to decide what to do: 1) upgrade the gpu alone 2) build a new PC from scratch.

I have a i5-2500. Going by this article http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=1129&lang=english

In recent games there's less than 1% difference between a 2500 and a 4670. But they don't test Unity or Watch dogs, and I can't find any benchmark that includes a 2500.

 

[Herne]

Hey guys, I'm planning on getting an i5 4690K and I'm looking for a motherboard. The last time I really looked at cpu's was back in 2011, when I built my current machine (i5 2500). I'd prefer to stay with Asus, but my question is regarding chipsets. Is it worth spending extra to get a Z97 board? Are there any drawbacks to going cheaper and getting an H87 or even a B85?

I'll be using my current ram (Kingston 1333MHz), which I think is important to point out as I'm pretty sure some of the newer boards require faster ram.

 

[Zenaku]

My GTX570 just died and now I'm trying to decide what to do: 1) upgrade the gpu alone 2) build a new PC from scratch.

I have a i5-2500. Going by this article http://www.google.it/url?q=http://w...kQFjAE&usg=AFQjCNEo0oWlvczHO8Y61VRjqPFVwgnQNQ

In recent games there's less than 1% difference between a 2500 and a 4670. But they don't test Unity or Watch dogs, and I can't find any benchmark that includes a 2500.

Unity was one of the games I've tested today, with my i5-2500K and new GTX 980, and had all graphics settings maxed other than AA (set that to 2x MSAA) and got rock solid 40fps (have a 120hz display).

My i5 is at stock speeds since I need to redo the overclock. I can try and see what performance is like with the fps cap raised to 60, if you like.

 

[TronLight]

Unity was one of the games I've tested today, with my i5-2500K and new GTX 980, and had all graphics settings maxed other than AA (set that to 2x MSAA) and got rock solid 40fps (have a 120hz display).

My i5 is at stock speeds since I need to redo the overclock. I can try and see what performance is like with the fps cap raised to 60, if you like.

That would be useful thank you! Could you remove the frame rate cap altogether instead of raising it though?

 

[sk3tch]

I haven't ordered it yet because FreeSync drivers are only coming on the 19th. Honestly, I feel more comfortable getting freesync as it is a industry standard and has more chances of getting more support - which already shows. I'll bet on it.

VESA Adaptive-Sync is the industry standard (splitting hairs here, I know) - FreeSync is the AMD version based off of that. Hence my "wait and see" approach (want a 4K monitor). AMD is dying (in my opinion - although, I hope not). I'd want to see NVIDIA involved before making the plunge.

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

My GTX570 just died and now I'm trying to decide what to do: 1) upgrade the gpu alone 2) build a new PC from scratch.

I have a i5-2500. Going by this article http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=1129&lang=english

In recent games there's less than 1% difference between a 2500 and a 4670. But they don't test Unity or Watch dogs, and I can't find any benchmark that includes a 2500.

I assume your i5 is the K variant? If so just overclock it and upgrade your GPU.

Note that you will need a decent aftermarket CPU cooler though.

 

[knitoe]

My GTX570 just died and now I'm trying to decide what to do: 1) upgrade the gpu alone 2) build a new PC from scratch.

I have a i5-2500. Going by this article http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=1129&lang=english

In recent games there's less than 1% difference between a 2500 and a 4670. But they don't test Unity or Watch dogs, and I can't find any benchmark that includes a 2500.

If you had a 2500K, you could overclock to 4.4-4.5GHz and just upgrade the GPU. Since you don't, best to upgrade CPU and GPU. Next time, get the K version. They are more viable long term. With a K, overclock right and enjoy the free extra speeds for years.

Hey guys, I'm planning on getting an i5 4690K and I'm looking for a motherboard. The last time I really looked at cpu's was back in 2011, when I built my current machine (i5 2500). I'd prefer to stay with Asus, but my question is regarding chipsets. Is it worth spending extra to get a Z97 board? Are there any drawbacks to going cheaper and getting an H87 or even a B85?

I'll be using my current ram (Kingston 1333MHz), which I think is important to point out as I'm pretty sure some of the newer boards require faster ram.

You want the Z97 for overclocking the 4690K. And, yes, a slight .5-.7 GHz overclock to 4.0-4.2GHz ALL CORES is a big performance gain vs stock speed and max 3.9GHz boost on 1 CORE.

 

[Herne]

You want the Z97 for overclocking the 4690K. And, yes, a slight .5-.7 GHz overclock to 4.0-4.2GHz ALL CORES is a big performance gain stock speed and max 3.9GHz boost on 1 CORE.

Awesome, thanks muchly

 

[Blitzhex]

Crazy price 850evo, awesome. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Last time it was this low was at black friday, I think. $180 for 500gb.

 

[TronLight]

I assume your i5 is the K variant? If so just overclock it and upgrade your GPU.

Note that you will need a decent aftermarket CPU cooler though.

If you had a 2500K, you could overclock to 4.4-4.5GHz and just upgrade the GPU. Since you don't, best to upgrade CPU and GPU. Next time, get the K version. They are more viable long term. With a K, overclock right and enjoy the free extra speeds for years.

I do have a 2500k, what I don't have is a overclock cooler. Problem is, I also don't have a big enough case to accomodate a better cooler (I bought a Corsair H60, but the radiator didn't fit, now I have a Cooler Master Hyper TX3, which is not bad, top temp is around 63° while gaming, but I don't know if it's good enough to overclock).

If I were to spend 100€ for the case, another 70 for the cooler, 350 for the GPU, and 70 for RAM (I only have 4GB and I need to upgrade)... At this point I'd just throw 300€ more and buy a new CPU+Mobo too.

 

[kharma45]

Crazy price 850evo, awesome. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Last time it was this low was at black friday, I think. $180 for 500gb.

I'd just be more wary of TLC drives now after the 840 and the 840 Evo, neither of which are fixed now. I'd rather go for a slightly slower, but safer MLC option.

 

[knitoe]

I do have a 2500k, what I don't have is a overclock cooler. Problem is, I also don't have a big enough case to accomodate a better cooler (I bought a Corsair H60, but the radiator didn't fit, now I have a Cooler Master Hyper TX3, which is not bad, top temp is around 63° while gaming, but I don't know if it's good enough to overclock).

If I were to spend 100€ for the case, another 70 for the cooler, 350 for the GPU, and 70 for RAM (I only have 4GB and I need to upgrade)... At this point I'd just throw 300€ more and buy a new CPU+Mobo too.

What's your temps while running Prime95? If under 85C, overclock as far as it will go while staying under that temp.

Probably, better to change your case and cooler (212 EVO is 30). Plus, add more ram to at least 8GB. And, even if you plan to get new CPU and MB, you still would want to change the previous stuff.

 

[TronLight]

What's your temps while running Prime95? If under 85C, overclock as far as it will go while staying under that temp.

Probably, better to change your case and cooler (212 EVO is 30). Plus, add more ram to at least 8GB. And, even if you plan to get new CPU and MB, you still would want to change the previous stuff.

Yeah, if I change CPU/Mobo I'll change everything else for sure, no point in keeping.

I'll only keep my HDD and the PSU, which are good.

 

[SixStringPsycho]

Well Im on the lookout for a new case. bought a Seidon 240m and and I hate putting the fans for the radiator on top of the case so it can be seen. Also had to eliminate de back fan so the radiator could fix. Everythings running great. But I really want my office to look sleek. So please reccomend me a sleek and quiet one.

 

[Lockjaw333]

I do have a 2500k, what I don't have is a overclock cooler. Problem is, I also don't have a big enough case to accomodate a better cooler (I bought a Corsair H60, but the radiator didn't fit, now I have a Cooler Master Hyper TX3, which is not bad, top temp is around 63° while gaming, but I don't know if it's good enough to overclock).

If I were to spend 100€ for the case, another 70 for the cooler, 350 for the GPU, and 70 for RAM (I only have 4GB and I need to upgrade)... At this point I'd just throw 300€ more and buy a new CPU+Mobo too.

Go into bios and change your multiplier to 40 and you should be alright on stock cooler. I think as long as it stays below 75Cish you are good. If you need to, back it down until you get acceptable temps.

I've got my 2500K running 4.0ghz on less than stock voltage. Granted I have an aftermarket cooler keeping me in the 55C area under load, but your stock cooler should still keep you at safe temps at 4.0 ghz.

 

[Frankfurter]

I do have a 2500k, what I don't have is a overclock cooler. Problem is, I also don't have a big enough case to accomodate a better cooler (I bought a Corsair H60, but the radiator didn't fit, now I have a Cooler Master Hyper TX3, which is not bad, top temp is around 63° while gaming, but I don't know if it's good enough to overclock).

If I were to spend 100€ for the case, another 70 for the cooler, 350 for the GPU, and 70 for RAM (I only have 4GB and I need to upgrade)... At this point I'd just throw 300€ more and buy a new CPU+Mobo too.

The cooler isn't all that good, but it should still be able to get you better temperatures imo. Maybe it doesn't sit properly on the CPU. Could also be the temperature in your case. You should try Prime95 (small ffts), monitor both the temp. and the voltage with for example HWMonitor and report back here so GAF can figure out if sth. is wrong ^^

Anyway, you could atleast try to switch the 2500k into manual mode (that is the vcore) and squeeze a couple 100 Mhz out of it /w a lower vcore than in auto mode @ stock speed. It's really a waste to upgrade from a 2500k. It's still such a good CPU. Get more RAM, though. 4GB isn't cutting it anymore.

 

[Zenaku]

That would be useful thank you! Could you remove the frame rate cap altogether instead of raising it though?

Sure. Removing the cap actually had me getting framerates between the low 40s, and low 50s, going to around 50s-60s every now and then (some buildings, rooftops, etc).

Even at lowest settings, and decreasing the resolution to 720p had little effect on framerate (although it did reach around 60-70 in one sparse area). My previous GPU (GTX 660ti) was actually able to get slightly higher at medium settings/720p, if memory serves (before getting my current monitor). My CPU was overclocked then though (I think 4.2ghz), and I capped it to 30 due to stuttering.

It seems that for a stock i5, a stable 40 or a fluctuating 40-60 is the limit. I'll try and redo my overclock and see what speed increase it offers.

 

[Easy_D]

Guys, semi-random question. But what the hell is up with the performance of Far Cry 3? The framerate seems to be luck based, start the game first and it runs smooth, play it a second time and it starts to chug, close it and re-open it and the same area runs smooth as hell again.

It's not a heat issue as all my fans work just fine and it can randomly decide to run like ass even after the computer's been idling.

 

[TronLight]

The cooler isn't all that good, but it should still be able to get you better temperatures imo. Maybe it doesn't sit properly on the CPU. Could also be the temperature in your case. You should try Prime95 (small ffts), monitor both the temp. and the voltage with for example HWMonitor and report back here so GAF can figure out if sth. is wrong ^^

Anyway, you could atleast try to switch the 2500k into manual mode (that is the vcore) and squeeze a couple 100 Mhz out of it /w a lower vcore than in auto mode @ stock speed. It's really a waste to upgrade from a 2500k. It's still such a good CPU. Get more RAM, though. 4GB isn't cutting it anymore.

I followed this guide for the Prime95 test: http://www.overclock.net/t/1100100/info-intel-2500k-2600k-overclocking-tips

Did two runs with both the sizes suggested (while doing some light browsing) and the max temp was 66°, 1.32 max vcore.
This was with the bios options set to "ASUS optimal", the CPU freq. went all the way up to 3.8GHz.

Sure. Removing the cap actually had me getting framerates between the low 40s, and low 50s, going to around 50s-60s every now and then (some buildings, rooftops, etc).

Even at lowest settings, and decreasing the resolution to 720p had little effect on framerate (although it did reach around 60-70 in one sparse area). My previous GPU (GTX 660ti) was actually able to get slightly higher at medium settings/720p, if memory serves (before getting my current monitor). My CPU was overclocked then though (I think 4.2ghz), and I capped it to 30 due to stuttering.

It seems that for a stock i5, a stable 40 or a fluctuating 40-60 is the limit. I'll try and redo my overclock and see what speed increase it offers.

I see, thank you. I'm curious to see the result after overclock.

 

[Frankfurter]

I followed this guide for the Prime95 test: http://www.overclock.net/t/1100100/info-intel-2500k-2600k-overclocking-tips

Did two runs with both the sizes suggested (while doing some light browsing) and the max temp was 66°, 1.32 max vcore.
This was with the bios options set to "ASUS optimal", the CPU freq. went all the way up to 3.8GHz.

Oh well, that temperature is perfectly fine for that kind of cooler! Your vcore is extremely high, as is usually the case with vcore set to automatic mode in the BIOS/UEFI. The good thing is that this leaves you tons of room to get higher clock speed.
You can use the guide you got there for overclocking and going by the vcore your CPU is currently running at and the temperature I'd guess that you'll be able to OC it until atleast 4Ghz.
Btw. a nice tool that gives you tons of readings in terms of temperatures, voltages etc. is CPUIDs HWMonitor.

Edit: Btw. I wouldn't worry about all the different voltages and stuff the guide is talking about, yet. Just focus on the vcore and the different modes of it (auto / fixed / offset) and the multiplicator. Forget about stuff like CPU PLL Overvoltage, DRAM timings/clock speed or the loadline calibration (I'd leave this @ default [=Intel spec] for the moment). Chances are you won't need it anyway if you just wanna OC to, say, ~4.2Ghz, and DRAM timings and clock speed should come later, i.e. once your CPU OC is rockstable.

 

[TronLight]

Oh well, that temperature is perfectly fine for that kind of cooler! Your vcore is extremely high, as is usually the case with vcore set to automatic mode in the BIOS/UEFI. The good thing is that this leaves you tons of room to get higher clock speed.
You can use the guide you got there for overclocking and going by the vcore your CPU is currently running at and the temperature I'd guess that you'll be able to OC it until atleast 4Ghz.
Btw. a nice tool that gives you tons of readings in terms of temperatures, voltages etc. is CPUIDs HWMonitor.

Yeah I use that to get CPU/GPU temps usually, the guide suggested CPU-z for the vcore reading, but it was the same as HWM.

Good to know about vcore/temps/ghz. I think I'm going to do this, but more down the line. I'll be stuck with a Geforce 220 until christmas basically, so it's not like I'm going to run anything that's going to need a 4GHz i5. :\

Edit: Thank you for your suggestions.

 

[lostsupper]

anyone know if the the Frame Rate Limiter (per game) works well in Nvidia Inspector?

I've only used it for GTAIV, but it works perfectly. With ENB and density settings turned all the way up the framerate varied wildly between 40 and 55fps. Capping it to 30 with Inspector locked the framerate and made it much more enjoyable.

 

[RumblingRosco]

What's the protocol for removing an nVidia GPU and replacing it with a new nVidia GPU? In the Program menu, I see four NVIDIA drivers (3D Vision, Graphics, Audio, and Update). Should I uninstall all four drivers, shut down the computer, pull out the card, then put in the new card?

 

[TronLight]

What's the protocol for removing an nVidia GPU and replacing it with a new nVidia GPU? In the Program menu, I see four NVIDIA drivers (3D Vision, Graphics, Audio, and Update). Should I uninstall all four drivers, shut down the computer, pull out the card, then put in the new card?

Download Display Driver Uninstaller, reboot into safe mode, launch DDU and choose "uninstall and shutdown", change GPU, launch into windows and install new drivers.

 

[KePoW]

I've only used it for GTAIV, but it works perfectly. With ENB and density settings turned all the way up the framerate varied wildly between 40 and 55fps. Capping it to 30 with Inspector locked the framerate and made it much more enjoyable.

great thanks, I didn't know if it was buggy/unreliable or not

 

[RumblingRosco]

Download Display Driver Uninstaller, reboot into safe mode, launch DDU and choose "uninstall and shutdown", change GPU, launch into windows and install new drivers.

Thanks!

 

[KePoW]

Download Display Driver Uninstaller, reboot into safe mode, launch DDU and choose "uninstall and shutdown", change GPU, launch into windows and install new drivers.

Nvidia has recently added a "Clean Installation" checkbox in their new drivers, if you choose Custom at the beginning

I'm pretty sure this completely uninstalls your current old drivers and erases settings... isn't this good enough?

 

[TronLight]

Nvidia has recently added a "Clean Installation" checkbox in their new drivers, if you choose Custom at the beginning

I'm pretty sure this completely uninstalls your current old drivers and erases settings... isn't this good enough?

No idea. DDU also removes old keys from the registers for safety, I don't know if nVidia's option does it too.
I suggested DDU because that's what I used two days ago, I switched GPU two or three times, and it worked perfectly.

 

[Complex Shadow]

so i have kind of a unique situation. In that i currently waiting on Skylake before i start my first (not really. just been a really long time, like 8 years) computer build. but thats like near the end of august at least. my current computer which is on its last leg tbh needs a new single slot GPU. its used to house an Nvidia GTX 240 OEM, but that thing is dead now. So i was wondering if someone could recommend a cheap (gaming if possible) single slot GPU to last me till next year. Don't care if what brand or manufacture. Just has to be single slot.

 

[alisdair]

I want a 4K monitor to use with my work MacBook during the day, and then with my PC for gaming out of hours. Because 4K is so demanding I guess going for Freesync/G-Sync is a good idea, otherwise I'd just get the Dell P2715Q.

Are there any 4K G-Sync monitors on the horizon with two DisplayPort inputs, or a DP and mini DP? All the ones I can find are single DisplayPort, which is useless if you want to connect to two computers.

Is there some reason this is not technically possible? Because if so I guess I'll give up and get a non-G-sync display.

 

[mbmonk]

The 280 (280x) or the gtx 960 are both good choices.

Go for newer tech. Less power consumption, less heat, less noise, more features - nvidia = shadowplay etc...

Thanks to both of you somehow forgot about the GTX 960. I think I prefer it over the R9 285.

Assuming you're in the US, the Sapphire R9 290 is currently $240 after $30 discount. It beats the R9 285 by 20-40% in overall performance easily and has 4GB of VRAM, meaning it'll be more than enough to last you for years of 1080p gaming.

That said, if you put a lot of importance on better support for future-looking tech like DX12, you may want to wait instead. Not that the R9 290 is old or bad, but rumors say AMD will be launching new graphics cards in June and the R9 390X will have robust DX12 support.

Thank you for posting this. I didn't even know that card was an option given my budget. I will start researching it shortly. Thank you very much for the information and the link.

 

[LilJoka]

No idea. DDU also removes old keys from the registers for safety, I don't know if nVidia's option does it too.
I suggested DDU because that's what I used two days ago, I switched GPU two or three times, and it worked perfectly.

Dont think NVIDIA's clean install touches AMD files.

DDU is easy and 100% successful, so there is no point using anything else.

 

[kennah]

Well. Bought a used workstation today for $400 cad. Xeon 1245, 8gig ram, no hard drive. Putting my i3 and an old 1tb into it then will try to sell for... $400.

 

[Inskipp]

Hi GAF!

I'm planning to build a new PC in the near future, and was wondering what kind of a power supply would suffice. Currently the specs look like this:

CPU: i5-4690k - 279€ - Link
GPU: MSI GTX 970 Gaming - 379€ - Link
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H81M-HD3 - 63€ - Link
RAM: HyperX Savage DDR3 1600MHz 8gb x 2 - 75€ - Link
SSD: Kingston 120GB SSDNow V300, 2.5", SATA III - 64,90€ - Link
Case: BitFenix Shinobi - 59,50€ - Link

I have an XFX 750W (80+ Bronze) in my current PC, will that be enough to run this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

Hi GAF!

I'm planning to build a new PC in the near future, and was wondering what kind of a power supply would suffice. Currently the specs look like this:



I have an XFX 750W (80+ Bronze) in my current PC, will that be enough to run this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Way more than enough.
But when you actually do build, come back here with a budget so that people can help you pick parts. Some of those parts are kind of outdated and not very good.

 

[pkScary]

One of my 8 GB ram sticks died. How bad would it be for me to simply purchase one unmatched replacement?

 

[Mad Season]

One of my 8 GB ram sticks died. How bad would it be for me to simply purchase one unmatched replacement?

I would avoid unmatched

 

[ShyGuy0504]

I'm planning on building a new pc this year. Probably within the next 2-3 months.

I'm wanting a pc that will last 4-5 years. My current pc I built in 2010 and it's done pretty well with a few upgrades.

Would it be worth it to wait for Skylake? How much is known about Skylake? It seems like it is still a ways off from being released but I would hate to build a pc and then have Skylake blow it out of the water a month or two later.

 

[Coulomb_Barrier]

Hi GAF!

I'm planning to build a new PC in the near future, and was wondering what kind of a power supply would suffice. Currently the specs look like this:



I have an XFX 750W (80+ Bronze) in my current PC, will that be enough to run this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

750W is more than enough for that. You could easily get away with around 600W.

Also, 80+ Bronze is good quality, so you're fine.

 

[Inskipp]

Way more than enough.
But when you actually do build, come back here with a budget so that people can help you pick parts. Some of those parts are kind of outdated and not very good.

750W is more than enough for that. You could easily get away with around 600W.

Also, 80+ Bronze is good quality, so you're fine.

Thank you for replies, these give me some relief!

My budget currently stands at ~900€, and that's where I would like to keep it currently. I'm currently using local vendors to pick my parts (living in Finland). I have updated my previous post with prices and links, and will include them in this post as well:

CPU: i5-4690k - 279€ - Link
GPU: MSI GTX 970 Gaming - 379€ - Link
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H81M-HD3 - 63€ - Link
RAM: HyperX Savage DDR3 1600MHz 8gb x 2 - 75€ - Link
SSD: Kingston 120GB SSDNow V300, 2.5", SATA III - 64,90€ - Link
Case: BitFenix Shinobi - 59,50€ - Link

 

[Frankfurter]

750W is more than enough for that. You could easily get away with around 600W.

Also, 80+ Bronze is good quality, so you're fine.

I wouldn't say that :/ Just about any PSU these days will get atleast 80+ Bronze.

 

[Frankfurter]

Thank you for replies, these give me some relief!

My budget currently stands at ~900€, and that's where I would like to keep it currently. I'm currently using local vendors to pick my parts (living in Finland). I have updated my previous post with prices and links, and will include them in this post as well:

Are you intentionally choosing a k processor (i.e. you can OC it) and a board with H81 chipset (which won't properly let you OC)?
Also, I'd really think about spending the ~30€ extra and get a 256GB SSD (MX100 is cheap and good).

Did you do a price comparison with other websites? Because most of the prices seem quite expensive (that is compared to Germany), but maybe hardware is just more expensive in Finland.

 

[KePoW]

Dont think NVIDIA's clean install touches AMD files.

DDU is easy and 100% successful, so there is no point using anything else.

Just my opinion, but the point for me is that I don't have to download another program and boot to safe mode. I just use Nvidia's Clean Installation option built into the driver package, so it's just a one-step auto process

I never use AMD cards so that's not a factor