Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
notworksafe
Member
It requires a little upkeep but as long as you don't play with cheeto dust and honey all over your hands you should be fine.
notworksafe
Member
One or the other is fine, but never both.
Waiting on Art to get Type-N plexi up.
Not sure what art I want to do for my next stick.
what's that?
Lord Error
Insane For Sony
I'm adding pinball buttons to my icade cabinet, and I'm torn between ordering proper pinball buttons + leaf switches or just using my existing (near) silent microswitch arcade buttons. What's the rationale of using the leaf switch for pinball vs. the high quality silent microswitch?
*edit* I have these OBSN30-RG, really high quality (best in existence maybe?) buttons that use omron microswitch:
https://www.akishop.jp/buttons/78-obsn-30-rg.html
*edit* I have these OBSN30-RG, really high quality (best in existence maybe?) buttons that use omron microswitch:
https://www.akishop.jp/buttons/78-obsn-30-rg.html
StarCreator
Member
I can't stand the RAP4's form factor and love how much I can mod my TE2.
Depends on what's important for you, I guess.
ShadowSoldier89
Member
owning a TE2 and an HRAP3SA (same body as the 4 hayabusa), id say get the hayabusa and put sanwas in it
I jsut realized u said 4 kai, id try and find a 4 hayabusa
Well, one of those paths is considerably more expensive. Kai($100+) + 8xOBS($20) versus TE2($200) + HSS($25).
If you are OK with standard vewlix spacing, my HRAP.V5 is in the B/S/T thread.
I just want a reliable stick out of the box that has as little input lag as humanly possible. I'm perfectly fine with the Sanwa JLF, so the Hayabusa is just icing on the cake. However for the Hori stick, I'll absolutely have to swap out the Kuro buttons for Sanwas.
notworksafe
Member
The input lag on any premade stick out there is almost entirely inconsequential. I wouldn't really use it to choose one over the other.
If you can't win with a Kuro, using a TE2 isn't going to make the difference.
If you can't win with a Kuro, using a TE2 isn't going to make the difference.
So with that in mind, should I just get a TE2 with the possibility of getting a Hayabusa stick in the future, or get a Hori RAF4 Kai & use the money that I saved to get replacement Sanwa buttons?
notworksafe
Member
If you already know you like the Hayabusa stick, I'd go with the Kuro+Sanwa. Otherwise hit up the TE2 since it has parts you already know you prefer.
EDIT: One other thing to consider, the HRAP Kuro has a slightly bigger gap between the stick and buttons, the TE2 uses the strict Viewlix layout
EDIT: One other thing to consider, the HRAP Kuro has a slightly bigger gap between the stick and buttons, the TE2 uses the strict Viewlix layout
Well then, I may end up going for the TE2, unless modding my Eightarc Onyx is a better idea. The again, I've been using that baby since 2012.
Is this a good start?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FIVCC0C/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FIVCC0C/?tag=neogaf0e-20
notworksafe
Member
If you don't mind spending $15 more, you'll be much happier with this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SGGLZW/?tag=neogaf0e-20
The Qanba buttons and stick are kinda jank and $15 more for PS3 compatibility and Sanwa parts is a deal.
I'd suggest a latter type StarCreator links there just cause the extra feel it provides vs the usual Japanese button. I figure it gives some (little) mechanical feedback (and clicky sound!) in lieu of the actual physical feedback from a real pinball machine's paddles.
Are there any concave buttons or do you have to go to Happ or something for those buttons? Not a huge deal but just something I thought of as part of the feel of a pinball machine's buttons.
notworksafe
Member
I'd say go with the TE2, might as well keep the Eightarc for any last-gen stuff you wanna play
Mainly Marvel (I have MvC2, UMvC3, & MvC Origins to play for my PS3 of the MvC series).
Unless Capcom gets the Marvel license back & brings us MvC4, but that won't happen for a while given that Capcom is recovering from their financial woes.
Hopefully I get enough money for a TE2 in the near future.
thx for the tip, so the q4 is equipped with sanwa?
what´s the deal with sanwa anyway? sorry for asking a noob question but it seems like a big deal
notworksafe
Member
Sanwa parts are just very good quality. They're also the default in most Japanese arcades and work very well in most games you'd want to play with an arcade stick.
Lord Error
Insane For Sony
The last few pinball I've played, they all used leaf switches, with a button that has spring in it. None of them used microswitch based button, and they don't have any click. Pinball buttons also have more travel than any microswitch based button I've seen, even though they actuate probably during the first 1/3 of that travel already.
This is the kind of button pinball uses for the flipper (bottom left/right part of the image). Button on the left screws into the leaf switch on the right. I guess getting that would provide 100% authentic pinball feel, convex button and all, but I wonder if just using sanwa buttons I already have wouldn't provide more or less indistinguishable feel once you get into the game. I wonder if there's any practical advantage to a leaf switch in this case.
I've always been curious, why do people cover the last two buttons on the right? Do they get in the way that much?
Also, what's up with the crowbar?
i covered up the two rightmost buttons on both my TEs - i hate having a macro button on the stick and wanted to mimic the OG JP SF layout.
Woody Invincible
Banned
I got a Kai and replaced with Sanwas. I love the bigger gap between the joystick and the buttons.
They're unnecessary. Street Fighter only needs six buttons. And since you're playing on a panel with easy access to all buttons, you don't need combination keys (i.e. HP+MK), you can just hit them together with ease. I go for arcade panel authenticity rather than bling with all my sticks.
The crowbar is my security system.
drotahorror
Member
Take that stinkin sticker off man. You're straight up ruining that crowbar!
I know, and I feel bad about it. But it's one of those shitty brittle ones that flakes off into a million tiny pieces, and leaves bits of paper behind. I'd have to scrape it off with another tool, but I don't want to risk scraping the paint off the bar at the same time.
True, but it's pretty handy having the two extra buttons set to Record/Play/or whatever sort of extra training mode options there are in fighting games.
sixteen-bit
Member
Sure, if you need extra functionality, use those buttons. Hell slap extra buttons on there. A bunch of pages back there is a hilarious picture of a modded stick where someone slapped an extra row of buttons on the face, so 12 total. Go crazy, why not, these things (and arcade panels in general) are tools designed to meet a specific purpose. I only need six, or less buttons, so I get rid of the fluff.
Crowbar Update!: I tried peeling the sticker off and it turns out the glue had dried up almost completely over the years (I've had that stupid thing for probably a decade now), and came off without any great effort. Thanks drotahorror for giving me the incentive.
@sixteen-bit: Believe it or not, I've heard of that stuff since forever, but never once in my life bought a bottle or used it. Kind of like Crystal Meth.
hikarutilmitt
Member
I fixed my Real Arcade Pro V Kai:
Full Seimitsu (LS-32, PS-14's, AM-30's, etc).
And just for fun, a next-gen family picture, because it's the only time I'll bother taking one:
One for PS4, two XBONE.
High Five button cap bro! Fricken hate those 2 right buttons. I keep meaning to get plexi made for my Kais so I won't need plugs anymore.
Bahahahahahahahaha.
For those wanting to use their old sticks (PS2, 360, PS3) on the PS4 should get those Brook converters. They don't have noticeable lag, no dualshock 4 required and no timeout every 8 mins.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJf1oM0tb-4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJf1oM0tb-4
Same width and thickness, but the TE2 is two inches deeper.
bumpkin
Member
I have a question for those with experience building arcade sticks from scratch. When I changed out the buttons on my Fightstick TE, I used the Sanwa snap-in type buttons. Those seem pretty dependent on the mounting surface being relatively thin though. If I were to use the same brand of buttons, what would I use for mounting them into say a piece of wood? Would I want to buy the screw-on type buttons?
I'm thinking about putting together a MAME cabinet sometime in the future and would love to use the same brand of buttons.
I'm thinking about putting together a MAME cabinet sometime in the future and would love to use the same brand of buttons.
What kind of wood are you planning on using? I can't imagine any thin type of wood handing much pressure, so it seems you're be better off going with the screw-on type.
Anyways, I think I decided on the four pieces of art I'll cycle for my stick. Any changes I should make before printing them? The ones I'm most unsure of are the Dark Souls and Getter Robo art. The Getter Robo one especially. I want it zoomed out but then I had to stretch the art too much to the right. Think it's acceptable or should I go with the zoomed in one?
bumpkin
Member
I'm not sure yet, TBH. Still kind of in the planning stages. I suspect plywood unless there's something that'd be better.