The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

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How water-resistant is the Fuji X-T1 (combined with a WR lens obviously)? I've seen some mixed results online.

I don't feel comfortable taking the A7II out into the rain and I've been using a K-50 whenever that happens. I'd like to have just one camera so I'm considering selling both off and grabbing the X-T1 or something like it.
 
Quake1028 said:
Can Sony A6000 be used body only, IE without a lens? I know it would not be optimal, just wondering if it's possible.
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No.

All you'd get is a mostly solid color of whatever light is hitting it because the light isn't focused. For fun you could drill a hole into the body cap, put some light tight tape over it and make a tiny pin hole on the tape. You'd then have a pinhole camera. I've done it with card board and aluminium foil (on DSLRs), but the images are not sharp and it needs a lot of light. It's not a lens replacement in any way.
 
Ty4on said:
No.

All you'd get is a mostly solid color of whatever light is hitting it because the light isn't focused. For fun you could drill a hole into the body cap, put some light tight tape over it and make a tiny pin hole on the tape. You'd then have a pinhole camera. I've done it with card board and aluminium foil (on DSLRs), but the images are not sharp and it needs a lot of light. It's not a lens replacement in any way.
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The mental image of somebody actually doing this is actually quite hilarious.
 
Technically you could use it without the lens. You'll get a lot of this though:

hJGbY9r.jpg

JadedWriter said:
The mental image of somebody actually doing this is actually quite hilarious.
Click to expand...
Digitalrev made one.

I also discovered that Olympus makes a body cap lens yesterday.
 
VisceralBowl said:
How water-resistant is the Fuji X-T1 (combined with a WR lens obviously)? I've seen some mixed results online.

I don't feel comfortable taking the A7II out into the rain and I've been using a K-50 whenever that happens. I'd like to have just one camera so I'm considering selling both off and grabbing the X-T1 or something like it.
Click to expand...

I don't have first hand experience with X-T1 but it's probably "fine". On paper, it is similar level of sealing as K-50. Weather sealing can fail at any time, especially if the sealing rubber starts to dry up after a few years. It's always a risk so maybe it's a question of how much you are comfortable losing... I check the visible rubbers on my K-3 and lenses every now and then but I'm only comfortable shooting it in any weather because it's a few hundreds to replace them as oppose to a couple k.
 
The moon can suck my dick.

Figured I'd get something at least kinda usable, but between a very faint cloud cover, and the moon, last night was basically a waste.
 
Has the current 20% off the Adobe photography CC subscription tempted anyone? I have Lightroom 5 but not photoshop so I don't know if it's worth it. Also if I subscribe, what happens to my lightroom catalogue if I stop?
 
mrklaw said:
Has the current 20% off the Adobe photography CC subscription tempted anyone? I have Lightroom 5 but not photoshop so I don't know if it's worth it. Also if I subscribe, what happens to my lightroom catalogue if I stop?
Click to expand...

You would have to go back to your old LR5 catalog file. So, keep a copy of LR5 catalog when you upgrade. Later, if you decide to stop using CC, remember to save your edits/metadata to xmp/dng files (so you won't lose your edits) and then reimport the files back to your LR5 catalog. I'm sticking to offline version of LR until there's no alternatives...
 
When calibrating the colors of my monitor, should I only use the monitor controls or the controls in the Nvidia control panel or some combination of both? Also, will my photos not converted to srb ever look like they do in Lightroom/Photoshop as a wallpaper or other applications without color profiles?

I am having such a hard time wrapping my head around color calibration. My monitors aren't of a quality that I feel like I want to buy a hardware calibration tool. I just want things to be consistent.
 
Hi!
I don't know if it's the right thread to ask for advice but well, let's try:

I am no expert at all and do not plan to become one either, but i'd like to take better photos of my children so i decided it was time to improve a bit: i use my smartphone most of the time and sometimes a compact camera, an Exilim EX ZR100 that well, it is OK but not great. So i would like a new compact, pocketable if possible to use as often as i could. So the usual scenario would be children that move a lot and almost never stay still (difficult to focus), and indoors (not the best lighting conditions)
So I don't want to spend a lot of money but I am willing to go a bit further that the usual cheap compact. So far I have two candidates but not sure if there are more options, and which would be the better one:

Lumix LX7 and Sony RX100 M2 (since has backlit sensor compared to original one). Not sure if Mark 3 would be worth the extra cash. Mark IV seems great due to better processing (better AF? ) but too pricey.

So anyone could give me a bit of light? ?

Thanks! !
 
Grabbed me a used SEL50F18 today for my NEX6 since i'm getting a girl soon but i had recently the thought to sell my NEX6 and all the gear (sigma 30mm 2.8, Canon 50mm 1.8 with adapter, 1650PZ) and get a RX10. Since the RX10 MKII is out, the MKI is rather cheap now. Would lose all the hassle with lenses (and the temptation to buy expensive ones).

RX10 is not that much bigger than the NEX6 body but the sensor is not as big. RX10 lacks a built in flash. If really needed i could use a Metz 44 AF-1.
Are there other alternatives to the RX10? The RX100 MKII my mom has is not bad but i'm not a fan of the handling. There is also no going back from a (electronic) viewfinder. Fuji X100 is nice but no zoom.

I take (a lot) of picture at vacations, festivals, some events from work and soon a lot of baby pics but sometimes i think all the lenses changing stuff is overkill for me since i'm more of a "casul".

Or i just stay with the NEX6 (maybe upgrade to A6000) and withstand the urge to buy something like SEL35F1.8 and other expensive stuff...
 
So I just bought the Canon T5 rebel DSLR as my first ever DSLR, I got it on sale with 18mm to 55mm IS lens, and EF-S 75mm to 300mm lens kits for around 350, was this a good deal? I know it's not as great as some DSLR's but is it a great beginners camera? Finalllly the right thread hahaha!
 
Sticking to the NEX-6 for now. My work bonus turned out smaller than i expected (-_-) and in anticipation of a big chunk of money i just had my "need new gadget" urge.
 
Donos said:
Sticking to the NEX-6 for now. My work bonus turned out smaller than i expected (-_-) and in anticipation of a big chunk of money i just had my "need new gadget" urge.
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If you're still feeling the gadget urge, you can get some great deals on the Panasonic FZ1000. Sony dropped the price on the RX10 by a couple hundred dollars when the FZ1000 hit the market because it's a much cheaper and in some ways better alternative to the Rx10 series. The lens has better reach, 4K video and significantly faster Continuous Auto-focusing. The trade offs are that the body isn't weather sealed and the lens is slightly slower.
 
I should have the opportunity to play with the Leica SL, the M Monochrom 246, and the Q sometime in the next few weeks.

The SL's 24-90 lens isn't that interesting but for use with M lenses the SL body's got some things to offer: The SL has a base ISO of 50 (vs 200 on the M240) and a max shutter speed of 1/8000 (vs 1/4000 on the M240.) So it's possible to use large aperture M mount lenses on the SL without ND filters. Using the SL's focus peaking with M lenses is probably going to be faster and more accurate vs. a rangefinder when shooting wide open, too. Focusing 75 or 90 mm lenses with a rangefinder is challenging. Focusing a 135 with a rangefinder is almost impossible. The M 240 has an optional EVF but it's very low resolution and it has like 1 second of lag which makes it useless for anything other than still portraits.

The biggest complaints I've heard about the SL from pros are similar to their complaints regarding the Sony A7: weird/bad ergonomic choices.

For example, I don't see anything resembling an AF-ON button on the back of the SL. I always use servo focusing via the AF-ON button on DSLRs. I never focus with a half-press of the shutter. If the SL is going to compete in the pro world as a 10fps burst camera with fast auto focus then it better be able to assign focus to a button other than the shutter.
 
FStop7 said:
For example, I don't see anything resembling an AF-ON button on the back of the SL. I always use servo focusing via the AF-ON button on DSLRs. I never focus with a half-press of the shutter. If the SL is going to compete in the pro world as a 10fps burst camera with fast auto focus then it better be able to assign focus to a button other than the shutter.
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I randomly watched a overview of the SL and they mentioned that one of the rear buttons (I think it was the joystick thingy) could be reassigned to AF-ON.

One of the interesting things about the SL is that from the impressions I have seen most are impressed by the autofocus speed. To my knowledge it only has contrast detect AF so I'm guessing it is Panasonic's depth of defocus technology.

Ergonomically it looks like a bit of a nightmare. It's like they were stuck trying to make it ergonomic, but also good looking and ended up in a weird middle where it is neither. They should just embrace that a DSLR style camera with a grip will never be pretty.
At least it isn't as ugly as the DF. Shame Nikon didn't ditch the grip and AF module. Would have been cool to see a full frame SLR like that.
 
theepicoftyler said:
When calibrating the colors of my monitor, should I only use the monitor controls or the controls in the Nvidia control panel or some combination of both? Also, will my photos not converted to srb ever look like they do in Lightroom/Photoshop as a wallpaper or other applications without color profiles?
Click to expand...

srb? You want to calibrate your monitor as part of overall, system setting, not per application, so that colors are consistent on the system no matter what app you are running.
 
RuGalz said:
srb? You want to calibrate your monitor as part of overall, system setting, not per application, so that colors are consistent on the system no matter what app you are running.
Click to expand...

Okay, so should I calibrate only using the hardware controls on my monitor? Should I just ignore my video card settings?
 
I think that's the biggest part of why I'm so curious about the SL: I'm trying to figure out who it's for. The marketing stuff says "pro" a dozen times, but I'd really like to know what segment of the professional market they're aiming at. If I simplify it I'd list the segments as: photojournalism, forensic, fine art, weddings, sports, fashion/commercial and video production.

Photojournalism: realistically, you'd want two bodies if you're a PJ who is out in the field. That's $15,000 for two SL bodies. And the only native lens is a 24-90. The 70-200 on a CaNikon DSLR body is pretty much the standard kit for PJ, maybe along with the 24-70. I just don't see someone taking a pair of SLs to Syria or other dangerous or remote locations.

Forensic: No ring flash, and I think forensics requires certain types of SD cards for security reasons.

Fine Art: I could see the SL having a place here, especially since it can make great use of M lenses and soon it'll have an S adapter, too. But it's up against some heavy competition in the form of the Pentax 645Z - a very good medium format digital. The 645Z body costs $500 less than the SL and the Pentax lenses are even cheaper, relatively. Pentax has an amazing 55mm lens that costs $1,000. And of course there's also the 5DSR and D810.

Weddings: Again, the SL is up against the Pentax and the D810/5DSR.

Sports: This is where I feel like Leica believes the SL belongs. Their marketing material certainly makes me think so. Half of it has been images of the SL's viewfidner locked on to a Ferrari F1 car racing on the track. They put it in the hands of Sebastian Vettel. It would be matched up vs. the 1DX and the D4S and it might be better. But the SL has zero lenses to compare against those DSLRs and given that 2016 is an Olympic year it's pretty much a sure thing that the next CaNikon sports bodies will be unveiled soon so they can be in the hands of the press before Rio kicks off. But either way, the lack of lenses is the killer. To shoot sports, especially racing, you need at the very minimum a 70-200 zoom (preferably F2.8) and a 1.4x converter for close range work on the track. The Leica 90-280 zoom isn't even due out until the end of 2016. For moderate to long distance you'll need a 300 - 600 mm lens, depending on the track and if you're shooting cars or bikes. Leica has nothing on the board to compare with these. So how is this a sports camera? A 90-280 on a full frame sensor means you'll be pretty hobbled in terms of reach.

Fashion/commercial: Back to competing against the D810, 5DSR, and 645Z. The big guns like the Mamiya and H'blad MF systems are now a factor, too. Not to mention Leica's own S system. I don't see how a 24 megapixel SL fits into a pro's toolkit for this type of work, either.

Video: Maybe this is it. I don't know much about video production, to be honest. But I know the SL offers some stuff when it comes to 4K that has people interested. And you can mount the Leica Cine lenses. I am guessing the A7SII would be the SL's competitor in this area, along with dedicated video devices like the Blackmagic Cinema cameras.

So yeah, I'm kind of fascinated by where exactly the SL is supposed to break into the pro market. I think it'll end up being an enthusiast's toy and it's no accident that the SL is priced similarly to the pre-discount M bodies. It's aimed at the same audience in spite of the "pro" mantra.
 
theepicoftyler said:
Okay, so should I calibrate only using the hardware controls on my monitor? Should I just ignore my video card settings?
Click to expand...

It's fine to use video card setting which applies to the system overall. I just meant, you don't want to have a custom color profile per app (if that's possible).

Either way, you will need to use a combination of monitor setting and video card setting to get the best results. Typically, it means adjusting brightness and contrast on the monitor and change gamma and each color on video card to get a neutral grayscale. Cheaper monitors tend to lose a lot of colors when they are too bright or too contrasty. If your monitor has sRGB mode, it's a good place to start in my experience.
 
RuGalz said:
It's fine to use video card setting which applies to the system overall. I just meant, you don't want to have a custom color profile per app (if that's possible).

Either way, you will need to use a combination of monitor setting and video card setting to get the best results. Typically, it means adjusting brightness and contrast on the monitor and change gamma and each color on video card to get a neutral grayscale. Cheaper monitors tend to lose a lot of colors when they are too bright or too contrasty. If your monitor has sRGB mode, it's a good place to start in my experience.
Click to expand...

THANK YOU! Honestly. It's been so hard to find that kind of answer just by Googling around.

EDIT: Also, just bought an A6000 off eBay. Fuck it. I don't like using my NEX-5T now that I've been shooting film and have become used to have a viewfinder. I might give my dad my NEX-5.
 
I'm going to double post related to what I posted directly above.

Why do my images look a lot darker on Flickr when I exported them from Lightroom in sRGB color space?

Looks how I want it in Lightroom. Looks how I want it in the photo viewer. Looks not how I want it on Flickr.

If each program is reading the embedded color profile, why are they displaying differently on the same monitor?

I'm trying to prepare some photos to take to a print shop and I have no confidence at all that they will be the colors I want them to be.
 
It's cold now, like seriously, felt like my fingers were going to break off today. Does anybody use like a specific pair of gloves for taking pictures?
 
theepicoftyler said:
Why do my images look a lot darker on Flickr when I exported them from Lightroom in sRGB color space?

Looks how I want it in Lightroom. Looks how I want it in the photo viewer. Looks not how I want it on Flickr.
Click to expand...

Hmm that shouldn't happen, not sure what to say. Can you do a screen capture of Lightroom and Flickr side to side on the desktop?
 
theepicoftyler said:
I'm going to double post related to what I posted directly above.

Why do my images look a lot darker on Flickr when I exported them from Lightroom in sRGB color space?

Looks how I want it in Lightroom. Looks how I want it in the photo viewer. Looks not how I want it on Flickr.

If each program is reading the embedded color profile, why are they displaying differently on the same monitor?

I'm trying to prepare some photos to take to a print shop and I have no confidence at all that they will be the colors I want them to be.
Click to expand...
I actually had this issue. Iirc it had something to do with the ICC profile either my browser or LR were using.

Trying googling around.
 
JadedWriter said:
It's cold now, like seriously, felt like my fingers were going to break off today. Does anybody use like a specific pair of gloves for taking pictures?
Click to expand...

yes. I have some marmot very thin gloves almost like glove liners, then I have some big thick mittens where the cover over the fingers fold back so I fold them back to use the camera then fold it back over when I'm walking.
 
captive said:
yes. I have some marmot very thin gloves almost like glove liners, then I have some big thick mittens where the cover over the fingers fold back so I fold them back to use the camera then fold it back over when I'm walking.
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I should try using my thermal biking gloves the next time I'm out.
 
So without getting into too many details, I lost my DSLR to (intensive) water damage provided via an upstairs neighbor setting the stupid building on fire.

I've decided that it's high-time to replace it, especially with a big trip coming up. But this time I'm thinking mirrorless, because the one thing I don't miss about that otherwise really great Nikon? Carrying a big sack o' camera everywhere.

I keep coming back to Fuji, but even with the help of Fuji vs. Fuji, I can't make up my mind.

X-T10 vs. X-E2? Help.
 
sneaky77 said:
I love my x-e2, if you like the range form, there's a firmware upgrade coming soon to get all the bells and whistles from the xt10
Click to expand...

See, people keep saying that about the firmware. They've been saying that (apparently) since, like, May. The latest X-E2 firmware, released in late October, doesn't seem to do it.

I'm growing skeptical, and my credit card's trigger finger's getting itchy. :). The rangefinder form factor does seem a little better ergonomically, but I really can't say for sure without holding both.
 
I couldn't resist buying a Canon 30D for 50€ just a month and a half after buying my 20D for 40€. So now I have two fantastic cameras for less than 100. They're pretty much the same but I love the 30D's much bigger screen. I think I'll get a 24mm prime soon to use with it.
 
xsarien said:
See, people keep saying that about the firmware. They've been saying that (apparently) since, like, May. The latest X-E2 firmware, released in late October, doesn't seem to do it.

I'm growing skeptical, and my credit card's trigger finger's getting itchy. :). The rangefinder form factor does seem a little better ergonomically, but I really can't say for sure without holding both.
Click to expand...

There are some rumors about December, but yes I understand that, ultimately I love my x-e2 and I don't feel like I am missing out too much since the sensor is the same anyway, but the x-t10 is quite tempting and is a good price.
 
Pretty sure I'm ditching the Sony FE ecosystem entirely, right now. The Zeiss prime glass is outstanding and the IBIS in the A7II is valuable, as is conveniently toying with legacy glass, but the handling on Sony mirrorless cameras is just godawful compared to Fuji's, and Fuji is so much better with listening to serious photographer feedback in general (and supporting their products long-term with firmware updates). I made the judgment call when I was walking around with friends at an outdoor art exhibit at night the other day and my iPhone shots were often coming out more usable than aperture priority stabilized A7II shots with the 55mm Zeiss 1.8 on, a pretty silly result, purely because I didn't have time to stand there and fuck around with settings on the awkward Sony interface (extra awkward in the dark) to configure it correctly for the shooting environment, and I guess I'm too stubborn to turn the dial to automatic dumbdumb under those circumstances. Nothing beats those retro physical dials for intuitive photography, I think.

Love Sony's hardware on a technical level, they're at the top in that regard and speak to the tech nerd in me, but photography hasn't been as gratifying since switching to the A7 series as primary gear, and the bump to full frame from APS-C hasn't proven that relevant since my usable shot percentage has decreased from the handling issues, and my gear has gotten bulkier (even more so with the A7II's obesity) so I don't bring it as often. Legitimate pragmatic concerns.

Already have an X-T1 for weather sealed adventures, so whatever, I'm good. 56mm f1.2 was an Amazon Black Friday deal, so I'm extra good. ;b
 
EviLore said:
Pretty sure I'm ditching the Sony FE ecosystem entirely, right now. The Zeiss prime glass is outstanding and the IBIS in the A7II is valuable, as is conveniently toying with legacy glass, but the handling on Sony mirrorless cameras is just godawful compared to Fuji's, and Fuji is so much better with listening to serious photographer feedback in general (and supporting their products long-term with firmware updates). I made the judgment call when I was walking around with friends at an outdoor art exhibit at night the other day and my iPhone shots were often coming out more usable than aperture priority stabilized A7II shots with the 55mm Zeiss 1.8 on, a pretty silly result, purely because I didn't have time to stand there and fuck around with settings on the awkward Sony interface (extra awkward in the dark) to configure it correctly for the shooting environment, and I guess I'm too stubborn to turn the dial to automatic dumbdumb under those circumstances. Nothing beats those retro physical dials for intuitive photography, I think.

Love Sony's hardware on a technical level, they're at the top in that regard and speak to the tech nerd in me, but photography hasn't been as gratifying since switching to the A7 series as primary gear, and the bump to full frame from APS-C hasn't proven that relevant since my usable shot percentage has decreased from the handling issues, and my gear has gotten bulkier (even more so with the A7II's obesity) so I don't bring it as often. Legitimate pragmatic concerns.

Already have an X-T1 for weather sealed adventures, so whatever, I'm good. 56mm f1.2 was an Amazon Black Friday deal, so I'm extra good. ;b
Click to expand...

I feel similarly about Sony's camera bodies.. there's an allure to them; and I feel obligated to like them. In fact, I DO like them, but at the same time I don't feel like I get along with my camera. The a6000 was a massive improvement over the NEX line, but I still feel like I have to press a multitude of buttons to get things done. It's a strange feeling.. I have only shot with Sony's, so who knows? Maybe it's a Sony thing, but so many people find them to be great. I've been tempted to look into the X100T or something. E-Mount has burned me out on interchangeable lenses.
 
Yep, Evilore nails it. I've been using a Sony A7s for a little over a year now and I can't stand it's menu/button system. After working with cinema cameras, I can't wait to use a simplified system. Image quality is fantastic, yet there are growing pains going to a mirrorless system, I have cleaned my sensor more time this past year then I cleaned my Canon 7D in three years. While I do enjoy the full frame, not having to apply mathematical equations when I'm choosing a lens is relaxing, it's the lens changes and the exposure of the sensor that will give me grey hairs. I'm just waiting for a camera system that fits my style, and thankfully there are potential camera bodies, but I'll save that for the Video thread. Till then, I'll continue to use the A7s, for passion projects.
 
I do want to rent an A7RII. I saw a comparison where it performed almost identically to the Pentax 645Z. I keep hearing the Sony interface is poor, but if it's that good I'd put up with some of the hassles.
 
Just curious, what all settings are you having to toy with on a regular basis?

I use my memory slots to set up the few commonly used settings that I need, and then from there it's just Aperture/Shutter/ISO, all of which can have dedicated dials on the A7 series. Maybe it's because I've never used other cameras extensively enough, but honestly I've never really had a *problem* with a6000's menu. I'm sure I'd hate the NEX, and I can certainly see room for improvement, but not enough for it to be a problem, per se.
 
NEX-5(R,T,N) and NEX-6 / 7 menues are a real pain and pretty bad -_-. A5000,6000, 7(R,S whatever), RX10/100... etc. all have the "new" menue which is definitely better. There is room for improvement but it's usable. Go into a shop and try it.
 
H3XAntiStyle said:
Just curious, what all settings are you having to toy with on a regular basis?

I use my memory slots to set up the few commonly used settings that I need, and then from there it's just Aperture/Shutter/ISO, all of which can have dedicated dials on the A7 series. Maybe it's because I've never used other cameras extensively enough, but honestly I've never really had a *problem* with a6000's menu. I'm sure I'd hate the NEX, and I can certainly see room for improvement, but not enough for it to be a problem, per se.
Click to expand...


I don't find I need to mess with setting all that much.

On my d800 I have the four memory banks set.
Bank A is ISO 50 and that's it.
Bank B is auto ISO 800 with AF-C set on the af-on button
Bank C is auto iso 1600 with AF-C set on the af-on button
Bank D is auto ISO 3200 with AF-C set on the AF-on button.

I use A for landscapes.

I use B,C and D for wildlife and chasing my son and friends kids around. If I need more than ISO 3200 I either need a long exposure at a lower ISO or I need a flash.

Shoot raw 14bit and don't have any other settings set.
 
H3XAntiStyle said:
Just curious, what all settings are you having to toy with on a regular basis?

I use my memory slots to set up the few commonly used settings that I need, and then from there it's just Aperture/Shutter/ISO, all of which can have dedicated dials on the A7 series. Maybe it's because I've never used other cameras extensively enough, but honestly I've never really had a *problem* with a6000's menu. I'm sure I'd hate the NEX, and I can certainly see room for improvement, but not enough for it to be a problem, per se.
Click to expand...

What I miss the most whenever I use my Fuji or my friend's A7RII is the hassle it takes to reset things to the default behaviors unless I use user modes. But I tend to forget what user mode I have setup on different camera.

For example, on my camera, I have auto iso setup for A/S modes as default. If I want to change to specific ISO, I press the ISO button and change it. Then, afterward, I just press green button to reset its behavior to my usual default. Same goes for Exposure compensation.

Using manual lenses in manual mode, I can press the button and it will meter for me. Then I just adjust for DOF or Shutter speed - save about half of the time.

A7RII with its button customizations can come pretty close to how I would operate a camera - though I think the buttons feel like crap on it still - but nothing has the 'reset' functionality.
 
Man hearing the horror stories here regarding the Sony interface kind of makes me happy that I didn't get the Sony A58 like I originally was going to get when I was doing my camera research.
 
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