People want a M style body mirrorless with interchangeable lenses.
I thought Leica learnt stuff with the success of Leica Q.
People want a M style body mirrorless with interchangeable lenses. How did they fuck that up? Make the ugly EVF hump. Make it ten times more unwieldy.
Because it's a mirrorless that goes even further beyond.Son Goku would like the Leica.
You mean like the M system?
I don't doubt that the SL will find a niche (Leica has never been a mass-market brand, they don't need to sell A7 numbers of these to make a profit), but my big question is why Leica has decided they need to support yet another lens system. They're now up to four:
S (MF)
SL (FF)
M (FF)
T (APS-C)
My 5D classic should be here on Saturday. I'm upgrading from an XTi. Sadly, my only EF lens is the 50 1.4, but that's a heck of a lens so hopefully I'll be content for a few months until i refill my coffers. For what I like to to take photos of I'll be on the lookout for the 17-40 as my next piece of glass.
So if you have the chance to test it out before hand you might want to. Here are some tricks to testing lenses for defects.
Long story short -- The person I suspected was indeed the thief.
I managed to grab a photo he took and matched it to my serial number.
Oh yes he did. I pressed charges on the fucker.
Self proclaimed canon guy who talks crap on Nikon. Goes and steals a Nikon body. He wasn't as smooth as he thought he was.
I want a Sigma Art lens so fucking bad.BnH has the Sigma 35mm f1.4 ART on sale today.
The gear acquisition syndrome is real, hnnnnnggggg...
Oh yes he did. I pressed charges on the fucker.
Self proclaimed canon guy who talks crap on Nikon. Goes and steals a Nikon body. He wasn't as smooth as he thought he was.
Rich German shutterbug uses expensive ass German camera. I wonder if Vettel has a Flickr account.For those also following F1:
I've spent about a month thinking about buying a second lens for my NEX-6 (I'm currently using the 30mm Sigma), and I'm still having a hard time making a decision. Should I get something within the e-mount family, or just buy an adapter and get something completely different? Most wide shots I take look cramped when outdoors, so I'm guessing a 19mm Sigma would suffice? I want to take advantage of the fact that I'm in Tokyo right now, as there are lenses available everywhere.
I used to think I needed something that performs better in low light conditions, but it turned out I just didn't know what I was doing. Being a bad photographer makes it tough to figure out what you need!
edit:
Here are the photos I've taken in Japan over the last month and a half or so:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/128193013@N08/
Any feedback/critiques would be greatly appreciated!
Whatever you decide, just take into account your body crop factor.
Specifically for E-mount APS-C, I recommend the manual Samyang/Rokinon 12mm for ultra wide.
https://www.flickr.com/groups/samyang_12mm_f2/
And would I need an adapter for this? And is there any chance I could find this used in a camera shop? My budget is ~$200, which I'm sure limits my options.
Here's a question:
When I want to go super light, carry literally only my camera and two spare lenses, what are my options? Are there good belt clipped lens cases?
I feel dead inside. Just picked up my new Sigma 35mm f1.4 ART only to find that my 6D now has a grid of ~3x3 hot pixels at ISO 200 and above.
Fucking. Hell.
I feel dead inside. Just picked up my new Sigma 35mm f1.4 ART only to find that my 6D now has a grid of ~3x3 hot pixels at ISO 200 and above.
Fucking. Hell.
The answer is to take advantage of that 1.4 and always shoot at 100 ISO.
Yes? No?
Do a manual sensor clean it should map it out...
Yongnuo 560 III and a 560 TX.Can anybody recommend an external flash that the chairman of broke photographer gaf can afford?
What does it mean if a flash is manual? Complete noob here.Yongnuo 560 III and a 560 TX.
Itll be all manual, but its cheap and powerful.
Manual control of the flash output. A cheaper flash without it will on a camera that doesn't support its TTL metering (like Canon flash on Nikon) fire at 100% strength all the time.What does it mean if a flash is manual? Complete noob here.
Well this sounds a bit complicated. What would be "idiot proof?"Manual control of the flash output. A cheaper flash without it will on a camera that doesn't support its TTL metering (like Canon flash on Nikon) fire at 100% strength all the time.
Edit: And for this it won't work with Nikon's TTL system for flash metering and I think you'll have to zoom it yourself.
Manual control of the flash output. A cheaper flash without it will on a camera that doesn't support its TTL metering (like Canon flash on Nikon) fire at 100% strength all the time.
Edit: And for this it won't work with Nikon's TTL system for flash metering and I think you'll have to zoom it yourself.
How much better is the Canon 50mm 1.4 than the 1.8 STM? Can I expect much better results at 1.8 aperture?
Maybe I shouldn't be thinking about a lens upgrade yet
The build quality of the 50mm 1.4, with its wider aperture and shapelier bokeh, is a big plus. But the much smaller price tag of the 50mm 1.8, along with its seemingly sharper focus at wider apertures, is impossible to overlook.
I'm going to answer this, but not really. I had the 1.8 for a year or so and it was a terrific lens. Then I dropped it. I loved and used the lens so much that I considered the 1.4. All I needed was a little encouragement from a friend of mine who shoots for a living. Straight away you will see a color and bokeh difference. The lens itself is heftier, which is something you may like when it comes to balance.
Here's a quote from a face-off review of the two that is pretty accurate.
For me, knowing that a 50 prime is my favorite to shoot with, I went for the upgrade.
You misunderstood, in the second sentence I was talking about cheap flashes like this one which have no manual controls on the body.Nonono that's wrong.
It means that the camera can't take control of it, this much is true, but it does NOT fire at 100% all the time -- maybe if you got a TTL flash and put it on a camera that wasn't compatible with its TTL system, but no, a flash that is purely at max strength all the time would be worthless.
I know I misunderstood the original question of needing a wireless flash though. I don't know of many wireless flashes that have no manual control apart from maybe this one
How good would a Yongnou 568 EX be?Nonono that's wrong.
It means that the camera can't take control of it, this much is true, but it does NOT fire at 100% all the time -- maybe if you got a TTL flash and put it on a camera that wasn't compatible with its TTL system, but no, a flash that is purely at max strength all the time would be worthless.
What it MEANS is that you manually control the output. That means test shots, and... that's really all that means. If you're already taking test shots to check your regular exposure settings, then a manual flash is just one more setting to adjust. The yongnuo 560's are strong enough that most shots will just be either 1/128th or 1/64th. I've rarely needed to go over that. (There are times, just for most uses lower power is perfectly suitable.)
How good would a Yongnou 568 EX be?
How much better is the Canon 50mm 1.4 than the 1.8 STM? Can I expect much better results at 1.8 aperture?
Maybe I shouldn't be thinking about a lens upgrade yet
Can anybody recommend an external flash that the chairman of broke photographer gaf can afford?
The 50mm f1.8 STM is sharper, focuses better and is better built than the 50mm f1.4
The f1.4 is a 20+ year old lens that features Canon's early (see: garbage) USM implementation that is both not as accurate as later USM and STM models and not as swift to focus.
Unless you really, REALLY need that 2/3 stop brighter aperture the f1.4 gives you then I see exactly zero reason to pick it over the fantastic 50mm f1.8 STM.
Yeah pretty much. I just want something cheap, decent and borderline idiot proof. If I could save a couple of bucks on something like those two refurbished I'll pretty much take it.Sounds like you're looking for something with E-TTL capabilities like the Yongnuo 565 EX or 568 EX. It's like an automatic mode for a speedlite which controls the exposure for you so you don't have to measure out the values on your own. Sounds complicated but it's basically an automatic flash that's easy to use for beginners.