"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

opticalmace said:
2) Check your PSU's manual, it will tell you which way to orient it (it can vary depending on the PSU).
3) You just leave the 2 pin hanging.
Click to expand...

Thanks opticalmace. For the CPU cable the manual doesn't say but it looks like the cables might be keyed in such a way they can only go into the right side. With regards to the GPU, OK, that's not neat but fair enough. I'll try and make sure it's not too obviously hanging.

Thanks again.
 
Mugy said:
Hey where did you bough this one?
Click to expand...
Microcenter! I have one locally!

Ted said:
Oh lord, it's all here...

VzIQ21P.jpg


Prime yourselves for idiocy.
Click to expand...
I though 16 gigas of ram would be the gaming standard?

Why go for 8?

or is 8 enough? (asking for the sake of my own budget since I've yet to buy ram lol)
 
JEKKI said:
Microcenter! I have one locally!

I though 16 gigas of ram would be the gaming standard?

Why go for 8?

or is 8 enough? (asking for the sake of my own budget since I've yet to buy ram lol)
Click to expand...

I imagine it was to save a bit. 16 GB is the ideal, comfortable standard, but 8 is acceptable if you really need to fit everything within budget.
 
I want to get as much opinions as possible about the GTX 1050ti. What can i expect? is it good? it is bad?

Im kinda lost i want to play recent games as highest quality as possible at 1080p60fps. Last game i played on PC was Devil May Cry 4SE.

Thas all my money can afford right now. Its a good idea?
 
Mugy said:
I want to get as much opinions as possible about the GTX 1050ti. What can i expect? is it good? it is bad?

Im kinda lost i want to play recent games as highest quality as possible at 1080p60fps. Last game i played on PC was Devil May Cry 4SE.

Thas all my money can afford right now. Its a good idea?
Click to expand...

The 1050 Ti is good so long as you keep your expectations reasonable. That is to say, you're not going to get full, ultra settings (usually the highest there is) in the latest big hits while maintaining 60 FPS. You are however quite likely to pull it off at high settings, and on less demanding titles, may stand a chance of having everything at its limit.
 
Mugy said:
I want to get as much opinions as possible about the GTX 1050ti. What can i expect? is it good? it is bad?

Im kinda lost i want to play recent games as highest quality as possible at 1080p60fps. Last game i played on PC was Devil May Cry 4SE.

Thas all my money can afford right now. Its a good idea?
Click to expand...

It's a good card, you can do 1080p/60FPS with it easily but you aren't going to max every single game out and keep a consistent frame rate. (If you're in the UK I'll sell you my old one for £100 btw).

A RX570 or 1060 3Gb are a good step up, but prices vary and they may not meet your budget.
 
Mugy said:
I want to get as much opinions as possible about the GTX 1050ti. What can i expect? is it good? it is bad?

Im kinda lost i want to play recent games as highest quality as possible at 1080p60fps. Last game i played on PC was Devil May Cry 4SE.

Thas all my money can afford right now. Its a good idea?
Click to expand...

If 60fps is important then save a little more for a 1060.

What's your CPU?
 
Phatosaurus said:
-The front panel has a tendency to block up with dust and it's hard to clean without taking it off and taking apart.


-It also also has a tendency to pop out on one of the corner's when you're putting it back on.
-Cable management is limited.
-It's fucking huge.

On the plus side though.
+Airflow
+Customisable
+Big enough to put pretty much anything you could ever want inside it.

I'm on the fence between ditching it for a Meshify C, or taking the front panel apart and replacing the mesh with a thinner and easier to clean dust filter.
Click to expand...

I love my Core V21, but, I agree about cleaning the front panel. How do you disassemble the front panel to clean the filter? I've been just removing the entire panel, then running water through the entire panel/filter, then letting it dry overnight.
 
Soka said:
I love my Core V21, but, I agree about cleaning the front panel. How do you disassemble the front panel to clean the filter? I've been just removing the entire panel, then running water through the entire panel/filter, then letting it dry overnight.
Click to expand...

That's a damn good idea. I've been removing the metal front from the plastic behind it to free the mesh. Gonna try that next time and just leave the panel on the radiator for the night or w/e.

Still really leaning on replacing the mesh with a large nylon dust filter. Or going all out on the front panal and cutting a huge square out of it for mesh panel to improve the air flow even more. Kinda a plus side to it, mod options.
 
Phatosaurus said:
That's a damn good idea. I've been removing the metal front from the plastic behind it to free the mesh. Gonna try that next time and just leave the panel on the radiator for the night or w/e.

Still really leaning on replacing the mesh with a large nylon dust filter. Or going all out on the front panal and cutting a huge square out of it for mesh panel to improve the air flow even more. Kinda a plus side to it, mod options.
Click to expand...

Why not move one of the magnetic dust filters to the front and re-position the magnetic Thermaltake logo elsewhere? Even with a 140mm exhaust fan in the back, the 200mm up front still produces a net positive pressure. I'm aircooled, so I have the windowed panel up top andone magnetic filter on the side my GPU pulled from, and the other filter on the front. The side opposite my GPU doesn't really need a filter as much as the front does.
 
My build so far

Ab350m
Ryzen 1800x
16 gb ram
H60 water cooler
LG bd drive
Wireless ac tplink 1600
2x 4 Tb int hdd
250 gb 960 pro

Just waiting for 1080 ti corsair water cooled to come in was 800 bucks

Installed win7 already had to buy and return a 1030 since ryzen has no video chip lol

Pain in the ass tho win7 has no usb3 support and my case only had usb3 had to get a ps2 mouse for initial installation and use on screen keyboard lolll


Also no nvme driver had to find that during install all worked out well though

Will probably try win10 when I get a new laptop when there is something equivalent to a 1080 ti and with 4k hdr screen
 
Phatosaurus said:
:laughingemoji: Then you'll definitely be fine, if you're planning to use it for 1080p then I hope you've got a CPU good enough to match it. for 1440p and up, you'll be golden unless you're running something daft like a i3.
Click to expand...

I got an i7 7700, 16gb ram. Plan to use it for some gaming, game dev, rendering.
 
Nostremitus said:
Why not move one of the magnetic dust filters to the front and re-position the magnetic Thermaltake logo elsewhere? Even with a 140mm exhaust fan in the back, the 200mm up front still produces a net positive pressure. I'm aircooled, so I have the windowed panel up top andone magnetic filter on the side my GPU pulled from, and the other filter on the front. The side opposite my GPU doesn't really need a filter as much as the front does.
Click to expand...

That's one thing I love about this case, you really have a ton of options to build in it as you see fit. My set-up is a lot different than yours. I have a 240mm radiator in the front with 2x120mm fans pulling air across the radiator, into the case. On the other side of that radiator is the stock 200mm fan which blows airs into (and around) the radiator. Then the back of my case has a 140mm radiator with a 140mm fan pushing air across the radiator, into the case, which is attached to my GPU. Finally, I have two 120mm fans as exhaust at the top of the case, one in the front above the intake from the front radiator and one in the back above the intake from the rear radiator. Mesh panel on top and mesh panel on the side where my PSU pulls air through, and the solid panel is on the left side of the case where nothing is blowing, basically.
 
Posting this from new machine, all built, Windows 10 installed, updates all done, Steam library downloading. I am a happy chap.

I genuinely exclaimed "LOOK it's showing stuff on the screen" with a dumb grin on my face the first time I booted it up and it actually worked.

I've now been back thorugh and tightened everything down and put it on it's shelf next to my desk and it's lovely and quiet. Going to keep checking temperatures as I wasn't sure about the quality of the stock heat goop or how much I should tighten down the cooler but nothing looks high:

XhmcraT.jpg


I'll play a little tonight and see how I get on.

Thanks everyone who helped me out, great advice and reassurance. It's fab to have a group of knowledgeable and nice folk to ask.

And now it feels good to have done it!

JEKKI said:
I though 16 gigas of ram would be the gaming standard?

Why go for 8?

or is 8 enough? (asking for the sake of my own budget since I've yet to buy ram lol)
Click to expand...

Yes, basically cost. It's an easy upgrade later so I'd rather play now. : )
 
Is there a utility to auto-change the windows system resolution when launching a game so that you can get DSR for games that aren't exclusive fullscreen? Pretty sure I saw reference to a program to do that but google is failing me.
 
Didn't expect to see my 8700k already shipped ( it said december when I ordered.. ) so I'm now trying to really think about the rest of the config so I don't end up with that unused processor sitting on my desk for days.

I'm coming up with :

new :


  • MSI Z370 GAMING PRO CARBON AC
  • Corsair Vengeance LPX Series Low Profile 16 Go (2x 8 Go) DDR4 3333 MHz CL16
  • Fractal Design Define R5 Black ( my currrent Cooler Master HAF X is in really poor condition)
what I would keep from my current config:


  • Noctua NH-D14 ( from what I gather it should be compatible with the new ram and case but that's one of the things where I fear I might be wrong )
  • corsair HX750W ( now something like 7 year's old, but that shouldn't be a problem right ? )
  • EVGA GTX1080FTW
  • SSD, DD, nuctua fans, etc..
am I missing something obvious or making a specific mistake ?
 
elyetis said:
Didn't expect to see my 8700k already shipped ( it said december when I ordered.. ) so I'm now trying to really think about the rest of the config so I don't end up with that unused processor sitting on my desk for days.

I'm coming up with :

new :


  • MSI Z370 GAMING PRO CARBON AC
  • Corsair Vengeance LPX Series Low Profile 16 Go (2x 8 Go) DDR4 3333 MHz CL16
  • Fractal Design Define R5 Black ( my currrent Cooler Master HAF X is in really poor condition)
what I would keep from my current config:


  • Noctua NH-D14 ( from what I gather it should be compatible with the new ram and case but that's one of the things where I fear I might be wrong )
  • corsair HX750W ( now something like 7 year's old, but that shouldn't be a problem right ? )
  • EVGA GTX1080FTW
  • SSD, DD, nuctua fans, etc..
am I missing something obvious or making a specific mistake ?
Click to expand...

I have no idea if that cooler will fit above the RAM as I'm not really familiar with the case/RAM/mobo layout - maybe try plugging it all into PCPartPicker to see if it has any compatibility issues?

As for the power supply, it should be totally fine, but IMO, I prefer to swap out to a new PSU once they get up there in age (6+ years usually). No specific reason I do that, except to be cautious I guess. Something about putting a 7 year old power supply into a new rig that costs > $1,000 freaks me out. You definitely don't need to replace it, but maybe keep in mind the idea of getting a replacement down the road.

Realistically, I think your PSU is going to be fine. The odds of it dying, or more importantly dying and taking your system with it, are pretty slim.
 
Soka said:
maybe try plugging it all into PCPartPicker to see if it has any compatibility issues?
Click to expand...
Gave it a try, but couldn't find the exact same ram ( CMK16GX4M2B3333C16 ) and there was no NH-D14 ( there is the NH-D15 thought so I did try with that one and it didn't show any compatibility issues ).
Soka said:
As for the power supply, it should be totally fine, but IMO, I prefer to swap out to a new PSU once they get up there in age (6+ years usually). No specific reason I do that, except to be cautious I guess. Something about putting a 7 year old power supply into a new rig that costs > $1,000 freaks me out. You definitely don't need to replace it, but maybe keep in mind the idea of getting a replacement down the road.

Realistically, I think your PSU is going to be fine. The odds of it dying, or more importantly dying and taking your system with it, are pretty slim.
Click to expand...
Thought so, but I will still keep in mind that I should probably replace it in a not too distant future.
 
Can someone recommend me a case for a large build. I have a friend that is planning on SLI and I told him he should go with a larger case for better circulation. The one he's looking at now is the Phanteks Evolv, which is a mid tower.
 
1080 ti coming on Wednesday, damn.

Could've paid extra for 1 day earlier but whatever, saved $20 to not do that.

GT Sport coming tomorrow anyway. Have all of Wednesday and rest of the week off though...... so the earlier the GPU comes that day the better lol.
b0bbyJ03 said:
Can someone recommend me a case for a large build. I have a friend that is planning on SLI and I told him he should go with a larger case for better circulation. The one he's looking at now is the Phanteks Evolv, which is a mid tower.
Click to expand...

I think generally for SLI mid tower is too small I have corsair 88r mid tower with a micro ATX board and a SLI would not fit for sure.

I generally like Corsair cases a lot as I like their design and organization so I would suggest looking at full towers if you want to have SLI and lots of air circulation space.
 
potatohead said:
1080 ti coming on Wednesday, damn.

Could've paid extra for 1 day earlier but whatever, saved $20 to not do that.

GT Sport coming tomorrow anyway. Have all of Wednesday and rest of the week off though...... so the earlier the GPU comes that day the better lol.

I think generally for SLI mid tower is too small I have corsair 88r mid tower with a micro ATX board and a SLI would not fit for sure.

I generally like Corsair cases a lot as I like their design and organization so I would suggest looking at full towers if you want to have SLI and lots of air circulation space.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll take a look at the corsair cases.
 
Pokemaniac said:
So I've currently got most of the components for my PC ready at this point aside from the CPU (an i7-8700k that I've got on backorder) and RAM (the RAM I could pick up at basically any time). One thing I'm a little concerned about is that it's looking likely that the return window might be over for a lot of these parts by the time the CPU arrives. I don't suppose there's any way I could really test them without having the CPU attached, is there?
Click to expand...

Reposting to see if anyone has any answers. I'm not really expecting a "yes" but I may as well ask.
 
Thought I'd ask again on a new page as no response yet. I've not long had a new build and everything was going fine so I overclocked it again was fine again until I updated the bios. Now I can't do even the smallest of overclock threw the bios (cpu only). If I do the system loses signal and I have to do a bios reset to get the signal back.
I can OC on windows but it doesn't save to the bios, though if I add voltage it instantly crashes.
It also crashes to no signal when I run tests, but never used to before the update. It has even crashed with no OC at all when doing tests. I noticed the fan stopped spinning before the crash this time.
Is the bios update to blame for this or is my PC not getting enough power but this doesn't make sense as it was fine before the update.
I'm on a cx 500 with a gtx 1060/ryzen1600/16gb 2400 ram. Temps are always fine.
Any help would be appreciated I've been looking on google and so on for days with no luck.
 
coastel said:
Thought I'd ask again on a new page as no response yet. I've not long had a new build and everything was going fine so I overclocked it again was fine again until I updated the bios. Now I can't do even the smallest of overclock threw the bios (cpu only). If I do the system loses signal and I have to do a bios reset to get the signal back.
I can OC on windows but it doesn't save to the bios, though if I add voltage it instantly crashes.
It also crashes to no signal when I run tests, but never used to before the update. It has even crashed with no OC at all when doing tests. I noticed the fan stopped spinning before the crash this time.
Is the bios update to blame for this or is my PC not getting enough power but this doesn't make sense as it was fine before the update.
I'm on a cx 500 with a gtx 1060/ryzen1600/16gb 2400 ram. Temps are always fine.
Any help would be appreciated I've been looking on google and so on for days with no luck.
Click to expand...

I haven't touched a Ryzen setup, but BIOS updates are frequently changing memory timings and voltages. Perhaps that's where it's going south.
 
Weevilone said:
I haven't touched a Ryzen setup, but BIOS updates are frequently changing memory timings and voltages. Perhaps that's where it's going south.
Click to expand...

Yea I didn't reset my bios before the update as I did it in windows and had a small OC on it at the time. Would waiting for another update then flashing the bios with a usb the next time help?
The day before I gave up on trying to OC my pc and had just a gpu OC. It ran fine all day while doing demanding gaming. Really confusing me the fact that it has even crashed with no CPU OC. The reason why I thought it might be power was because I tested it in cinebench twice with no OC then tested it, no CPU OC again but a decent gpu one (which was fine the day before when gaming) and this was when it crashed again.
 
b0bbyJ03 said:
Can someone recommend me a case for a large build. I have a friend that is planning on SLI and I told him he should go with a larger case for better circulation. The one he's looking at now is the Phanteks Evolv, which is a mid tower.
Click to expand...

Corsair Air Carbide 540

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3x4JsOoySdQ

So nice I built in it twice. Both my and my spouse's gaming PCs are in these. Prefect large cases. No issues with airflow or cable management. Plenty of room to work, great build quality, all around a beauty to work in.
 
Hot damn you learn something new every day. I just looked at the manual and didn't even realize there were magnetic dust filters underneath. Just checked mine out, look good for now.

I just assumed that ridged look was by design top and front. Not the actual filters.

Case fits perfectly at the bottom of my home theater component rack. It's a little big for some situations but if you have the space it's a damn fine case. Lots of air flow room and tons of space in back for cabling and SSDs with the rack..
 
There's a laptop at a local walmart on clearance for $750. It's an HP omen. Is it worth it?

HP 15-ax250wm

https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c05609719 here are the specs via hp.com

Product number

2FY68UA
Product name

OMEN by HP 15-ax250wm Laptop PC
Microprocessor

Intel® Core™ i7-7700HQ (2.8 GHz base frequency, up to 3.8 GHz with Intel® Turbo Boost Technology, 6 MB cache, 4 cores)
Chipset

Intel® HM175
Memory, standard

12 GB DDR4-2400 SDRAM (1 x 4 GB, 1 x 8 GB)
Video graphics


NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1050 Ti (4 GB GDDR5 dedicated)
Discrete

Hard drive

1 TB 7200 rpm SATA
Display

Display size (diagonal)">39.6 cm (15.6")
Keyboard

Full-size island-style backlit keyboard with numeric keypad
Pointing device

Touchpad with multi-touch gesture support
Wireless connectivity

Intel® 802.11b/g/n/ac (2x2) Wi-Fi® and Bluetooth® 4.2 Combo
Network interface

Integrated 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet LAN
Expansion slots

1 multi-format SD media card reader
External ports

1 HDMI; 1 headphone/microphone combo; 1 USB 2.0; 2 USB 3.1 Gen 1, 1 RJ-45
Dimensions (W x D x H)

38.2 x 25.3 x 2.45 cm
Power supply type

150 W AC power adapter
Battery type

4-cell, 63.3 Wh Li-ion
Webcam

HP Wide Vision HD Camera with dual array digital microphone
Audio features

Bang & Olufsen; HP Audio Boost; Dual speakers
Click to expand...
 
potatohead said:
1080 ti coming on Wednesday, damn.

Could've paid extra for 1 day earlier but whatever, saved $20 to not do that.

GT Sport coming tomorrow anyway. Have all of Wednesday and rest of the week off though...... so the earlier the GPU comes that day the better lol.

I think generally for SLI mid tower is too small I have corsair 88r mid tower with a micro ATX board and a SLI would not fit for sure.

I generally like Corsair cases a lot as I like their design and organization so I would suggest looking at full towers if you want to have SLI and lots of air circulation space.
Click to expand...

88R is a Micro-ATX mid tower, so it's definitely going to be on the smaller side. There are plenty of bigger ATX mid tower cases though that support SLI.
 
hey guys I need help. Is there any way to get rid of these black bars at the top and bottom? I see it every game I play on right now. I never had this problem before.
0ljJxIK.jpg
Click to expand...

edit: I tried a clean graphic driver install, I checked my nvidia resolution settings, and regular display settings. Nothing I do seems to make it disappear.

edit 2: I've never had this problem before. Every other time this has not happened.
 
Due to some of the software i've been using, I need to jump ship from AMD over to Nvidia. I have a MSI 8Gb RX480 and am looking at a 1070. This one to be exact - MSI GTX 1070 ARMOR 8GB OC
currently priced at $399, which, really wasnt planning on spending moneys atm, but if I can sell my current card, it wont sting as much.
seems like a fair enough card right?
 
KRaZyAmmo said:
hey guys I need help. Is there any way to get rid of these black bars at the top and bottom? I see it every game I play on right now. I never had this problem before.
Click to expand...

Considering that your monitor apparently runs at 1680*1050, a 16*10 aspect ratio, and your black bars appear to be about 105 pixels combined I would assume it is a problem with games either being set up to or using a 16*9 aspect ratio.
 
If I had a 360mm CPU cooler with a built in fan hub, where the pump can draw 0.15 amps and each 120mm fan is 0.3 amps(totalling 1.05 amps of course), will that generally be ok even though the CPU fan header is generally rated at only 1 amp? I just don't want to have to fork out extra for a motherboard with a high amp header...
 
So two of my Noctua fans stopped working :/ I submitted an RMA with them on Saturday. Any idea what the wait times are before they get back to me?
 
RayStorm said:
Considering that your monitor apparently runs at 1680*1050, a 16*10 aspect ratio, and your black bars appear to be about 105 pixels combined I would assume it is a problem with games either being set up to or using a 16*9 aspect ratio.
Click to expand...

I was able to have the game full screen before without those bars. I don't know what happened.

edit: I was able to get full screen again, but switching out to HDMI
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

GAF I need your help! My son want a PC to play Minecraft and Fortnite. What’s a good low-mid range PC?
2 3
124
672
PaintTinJr replied
I own Dark Souls on 360, PSN, Xbox, PC. Whats wrong with me and do I need Help?
2
65
66
LazyParrot replied
PC Master Race, I need your help!
37
2K
lachesis replied
Being Sam Lake
39
2K
fatmarco replied
Advice needed for new PC Build
22
1K
marjo replied
Top Bottom