I finished all the guild questlines (thieves, fighters, mages, DB). Explored most of the countryside, have maybe 10% remaining. Level 30, probably 200 hours in.
There are a few Daedric shrine quests I haven't completed and don't intend to, because I just didn't like the assignment. For some reason, I didn't mind murdering for the DB, but some of the Daedra quests offended my moral sensibilities, such as they are. I'm not going to murder people who are kind and welcoming. The Hircine quest was good, though. I ended up wearing that hairy vest throughout the whole game. Good bonuses, although it looked goofy.
Apart from the DLC, then, I'm pretty much done. Guess it's time to do the main quest, look for Martin whathisname.
edit: Fuck it; I forgot how annoying, claustrophobic, gloomy, and repetitive the Oblivion gates are. I'm going to skip the main quest entirely.