Mantle needs to be coded for. G-Sync works always forever on every game.
"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
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makeitawkward
Member
As someone that owns the Asus GTX770 4GB, I can say that it's a fantastic card. It handles everything at max settings and I mean every setting on max and still maintains 60+ FPS. It's the best value when compared to the 760, 780, and any AMD right now with mining which is why I bought it. I would definitely get the 4GB over the 2 as it's only a few bucks difference and will be better should you wish to invest in a higher resolution later. Also, new gen games should start utilizing more RAM as the newest consoles have 8GB.
But but but Free-Sync. It just requires special monitor with special GPU with special drivers..... oh you mean just like G-sync
I like warranties when I spend $200+.
You can find used cards with warranty. I found a used EVGA 680 for $250 with warranty until 2015 a couple months ago.
Well, that part of G-Sync. Let's not forget ULMB, the most important part of G-Sync.
The warranty is based on serial number. Just about all cards have 3 year warranties. So, any used card you buy from the last 2 years will have at least a year+ left.
Nope won't use it until I get variable strobe rates. G-Sync with ULMB 144Hz 4K 3D head mounted.
On a more serious topic, my flow rate is down to 0.4. Water temp is hitting 38C under BF4. I either do Dual D5 or the very svelte dual DDC single 5in bay.
The mechanical whirring of DDC is offensive to me, but it is a much more compact and elegant solution. I would never consider putting them in an expansion bay though. Only way I'd consider using them is totally decoupled and surrounded with noise isolating foam.
I can see not wanting to use ULMB when you don't play competitive games too. That makes sense.
I can see not wanting to use ULMB when you don't play competitive games too. That makes sense.
Ouch. BF is supposed to be fun when its not broken.
Didn't know that. Thought it was first owner only.
Yeah, it's pretty nice. I honestly haven't bought a NIB card since the 690, and that was like 8 videocards ago.
Fun =/= competitive
indigo-cyclops
Member
So I got my SSD up and running, Windows 8.1 etc etc...
How should I install Steam? I already have a bunch of games/Steam installed on my HDD from my prior setup, but I'm not sure if I should stick to that, or install Steam on C:/ and then use Steam Mover Tool?
How should I install Steam? I already have a bunch of games/Steam installed on my HDD from my prior setup, but I'm not sure if I should stick to that, or install Steam on C:/ and then use Steam Mover Tool?
So, I took out and reconnected my GPU, and made sure there were no loose screws anywhere on the mobo or the case. And the noise came back! I recorded a small sample of it- it gets really crazy around the 20 second point. This sound came under zero load (Chrome with 3 open Neogaf tabs open)
https://soundcloud.com/scott-krefetz/computer-noise-1
I need to know what is causing this!
https://soundcloud.com/scott-krefetz/computer-noise-1
I need to know what is causing this!
Erebus
Member
It turns out that my brother's motherboard failed a week ago for some reason.
He had an Asus Rampage IV Extreme and 3820 combo (that's LGA 2011). He has returned it to the shop but since they don't sell this specific motherboard anymore they offered him credit the value of the mobo (around 400) to buy whatever he wants from there. I suggest him to abandon LGA 2011 altogether, sell the 3820 and switch to Haswell 4770K but he's so stubborn and insists that LGA 2011 is better and more future-proof.
So what would you guys do in his position?
He had an Asus Rampage IV Extreme and 3820 combo (that's LGA 2011). He has returned it to the shop but since they don't sell this specific motherboard anymore they offered him credit the value of the mobo (around 400) to buy whatever he wants from there. I suggest him to abandon LGA 2011 altogether, sell the 3820 and switch to Haswell 4770K but he's so stubborn and insists that LGA 2011 is better and more future-proof.
So what would you guys do in his position?
Buy a key, then follow the guide in the OP to get the actual copy of windows.
I've been in his exact position. But first, I should say that he can still probably get it fixed/replaced under warranty. Contact ASUS, they handle the warranty, not the place he bought it from.It turns out that my brother's motherboard failed a week ago for some reason.
He had an Asus Rampage IV Extreme and 3820 combo (that's LGA 2011). He has returned it to the shop but since they don't sell this specific motherboard anymore they offered him credit the value of the mobo (around 400€to buy whatever he wants from there. I suggest him to abandon LGA 2011 altogether, sell the 3820 and switch to Haswell 4770K but he's so stubborn and insists that LGA 2011 is better and more future-proof.
So what would you guys do in his position?
I had a Rampage IV Gene that blew up on me with a 3820. I replaced it with a 4770K and a Gigabyte Sniper M5. I don't regret that ever.
*edit*
If you want exact ammunition to debunk his "future proof claim":
1) There's no more processors that will be released that will work with X79.
2) The only benefit, from a gaming perspective, with X79 is 40 PCI-E lanes, which only matters if he's running 3-4 way SLI/Crossfire.
3) 4770K's are much faster, clock for clock, than a 3820.
Hey guys, need some advice on making an SSD purchase for my laptop.
I have a Lenovo x220. Love it, works great. Not a gaming machine BY FAR, but it's my workhorse in terms of actually getting stuff down no matter where I go. Plus, it still plays Dota 2 decently enough that I can enjoy it on occasion!
In any case, while it's a wonderful machine, it's in desperate need of an upgrade in terms of Memory and Storage. I'm pretty much going to get the best memory I can that the laptop can support. For storage, I'm thinking about getting a 250GB Samsung 840 Evo. It fits my laptop, has good reviews. Seems pretty legit overall. Just wanted to know if there might be some better alternatives in terms of price/performance. I'm willing to go up to $200 if the increase in performance warrants it.
Mind you, I'm coming from a standard HDD world. As far as I'm concerned, any upgrade to an SSD is probably going to be heavenly tears falling on my face.
I have a Lenovo x220. Love it, works great. Not a gaming machine BY FAR, but it's my workhorse in terms of actually getting stuff down no matter where I go. Plus, it still plays Dota 2 decently enough that I can enjoy it on occasion!
In any case, while it's a wonderful machine, it's in desperate need of an upgrade in terms of Memory and Storage. I'm pretty much going to get the best memory I can that the laptop can support. For storage, I'm thinking about getting a 250GB Samsung 840 Evo. It fits my laptop, has good reviews. Seems pretty legit overall. Just wanted to know if there might be some better alternatives in terms of price/performance. I'm willing to go up to $200 if the increase in performance warrants it.
Mind you, I'm coming from a standard HDD world. As far as I'm concerned, any upgrade to an SSD is probably going to be heavenly tears falling on my face.
n64coder
Member
I'm interested in hooking up 2 monitors to my PC at home and I'm wondering if my Gigabyte HD 6450 card will do the trick. I'm currently using the integrated graphics on my Intel i5 HD2000.
I have two monitors: 1650 x 1050 and 1920 x 1080.
The card has 3 ports: DVI, HDMI, and VGA. Will I be able to plug one monitor into the DVI port and one into the VGA port? Could the card actually support 3 monitors plugged into at the same time?
How does one know how many monitors can a graphics card support?
I don't do any gaming on my desktop PC. Just general web browsing and remote desktop into work.
I have two monitors: 1650 x 1050 and 1920 x 1080.
The card has 3 ports: DVI, HDMI, and VGA. Will I be able to plug one monitor into the DVI port and one into the VGA port? Could the card actually support 3 monitors plugged into at the same time?
How does one know how many monitors can a graphics card support?
I don't do any gaming on my desktop PC. Just general web browsing and remote desktop into work.
That's pretty much the purpose of those video cards
it'll work exactly how you think it will. Some models will only support two ports at a time, not three. But it's worth a shot.
n64coder
Member
I went ahead and plugged it in and confirmed that it worked. I'm just curious as to how do you know if a card can support the graphic displays that you want to attach to it. Do you need to sum up the resolution of the attached displays and confirm that it does not exceed the max resolution of the card? I'm trying to figure out how to interpret the specs of a given card to confirm that it does what you want it to do.
Yeah, can't really recall a brand to avoid nowadays when it comes to SSDs.
Fun times with USPS!
The RMA of my corsair h100i got 'lost' while out for delivery. I'll probably get a refund ($60 refurb) but i'm back on stock now for my 4770k and not sure what to do. A retail h100i or 110 is probably a bit steep, and I keep reading that anything less doesn't cool as well as some of the air coolers. Should I just go back to air? help me gaf
The RMA of my corsair h100i got 'lost' while out for delivery. I'll probably get a refund ($60 refurb) but i'm back on stock now for my 4770k and not sure what to do. A retail h100i or 110 is probably a bit steep, and I keep reading that anything less doesn't cool as well as some of the air coolers. Should I just go back to air? help me gaf
How does this look for $175?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00966IREK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Says that's how much it'll be after rebate, so I'm mulling it over. How can I tell if it'll be compatible with my current set though? I'm just worried that I'll get a new part and have to deal with a bottleneck or something being incompatible. I apologize for being so generally clueless, but if someone could tell me how I can better understand what I'm getting I'd appreciate it immensely.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00966IREK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Says that's how much it'll be after rebate, so I'm mulling it over. How can I tell if it'll be compatible with my current set though? I'm just worried that I'll get a new part and have to deal with a bottleneck or something being incompatible. I apologize for being so generally clueless, but if someone could tell me how I can better understand what I'm getting I'd appreciate it immensely.
That fucking sucks! USPS has been kinda shitty for me too as of late.
Not as good a deal but tigerdirect has the h100i new for $90 after $20 coupon and $10 rebate.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7413643&CatId=499
Just grab a nice air cooler imo.
Water for looks or weight concerns.
the h90 is $10 cheaper with a promo code at newegg, any reason not to get that? I can't tell the difference between any of the 120mm models besides the look of the fan and shape of the plate. is it the pumps?
Honestly considering the weak CPU you have getting an AMD GCN based card for Mantle would be smart since it would alleviate your CPU bottleneck allegedly.
Something like a R7 260X or a R9 270X maybe.
If that's the card you are going with then you can get it at newegg with a bigger rebate.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130826
Also includes the game and you may not pay sales tax if they dont have a location in your state.
It's newer, easier to install. Shouldn't tangible performance differences.
I admit at 85$ I wish it was cheaper, but it's pretty new so...
Air is pretty foolproof get a noctua.
the 75 is newer and easier? - installation wasn't much of an issue with the h100i, so i'm not worried about that. plus it looked damned awesome.
Just go with a good air cooler then.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608041
Noctua UH14s
or if you have the space lol
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018
venerable DH14
I'd rather just upgrade both at the same time. Might as well save it until I have the cash to make the switch to Intel, then?
It's all relative to your budget man, you already have money invested in your current pre-built...
Ah, that was a gift from about two-three years ago now. I'm not likely to do anything now but I'm curious what the best course of action would be if I want a substantial upgrade.
Thanks for the help. c:
Barkley's Justice
Member
I recreated ifixit's Steam Machine teardown on PC Part Picker:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2ESua
The only difference is I'm only using 8GB of Ram instead of the Steam Machine's 16GB.
My question is: do you think the GTX 780 will drop in price soon?
That's the card to beat, right? At least for sub-$500? I want to future-proof this thing for quite a few years, so I'm OK going all out on the GPU now. But let me know what youse think.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2ESua
The only difference is I'm only using 8GB of Ram instead of the Steam Machine's 16GB.
My question is: do you think the GTX 780 will drop in price soon?
That's the card to beat, right? At least for sub-$500? I want to future-proof this thing for quite a few years, so I'm OK going all out on the GPU now. But let me know what youse think.
There's no way you're going to power that rig with a 450w PSU.
Barkley's Justice
Member
You can try it, but a GTX 780 calls for 600w PSU, and the lowest I would dare is 550w.
Barkley's Justice
Member
I searched for "450" in the comments section of that iFixit article, and read some of the comments.
What posters there are saying is Nvidia plays it safe by listing such a high number in the likelihood people buy shitty PSU's. But the reality is Nvidia's GPU's don't draw nearly as much power as cautioned, especially when paired with an i5.
Can anyone confirm?
That is correct, the card itself pulls around 230 Watts under full load.
As long as the rest of the system fits under 200 watts at full load (that is likely with what you have in your build) and the PSU is good quality, then you should be fine.
foamdino
Member
I'm currently pricing out some options:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsNxr1CZ4odBdFRyOFFfcGlyQmktMk5QLUZHTWhieWc#gid=0
I thought there would be a bigger saving going AMD for CPU+motherboard and found out that intel have been surprisingly cheap - so the cost difference is negligible (so go intel I guess)
Now I thought I'd settled on r9 280, but the nv770 is a tad cheaper and seems to be just as good (if not a little better)
All prices in GBP without rebates/specials and I trust overclockers having bought from there before.
I know very little about cases/psus/monitors so any advice concerning the choices there would be appreciated.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsNxr1CZ4odBdFRyOFFfcGlyQmktMk5QLUZHTWhieWc#gid=0
I thought there would be a bigger saving going AMD for CPU+motherboard and found out that intel have been surprisingly cheap - so the cost difference is negligible (so go intel I guess)
Now I thought I'd settled on r9 280, but the nv770 is a tad cheaper and seems to be just as good (if not a little better)
All prices in GBP without rebates/specials and I trust overclockers having bought from there before.
I know very little about cases/psus/monitors so any advice concerning the choices there would be appreciated.
MikeJAMoran
Member
I think I've made a mistake with going with the power supply listed on the $840 Haz build. I got the Antec VP450P, which seems like a different PSU, but I've now limited my graphics cards options.
I'm willing to go up to £200 for a graphics card, and I'm so confused as what to get. I was going to just get a 660GTX and upgrade later on, as I just want a system that works off the ground.
(Other specs: i5 4670K, bog standard Z87 motherboard, 8GB 1600MHz ram).
Your build looks similar to the one I'm speccing. I'm equally torn on graphics card, though thinking of going cheaper than that (more like £200). I just got he 200R, it's a nice case.
I'm willing to go up to £200 for a graphics card, and I'm so confused as what to get. I was going to just get a 660GTX and upgrade later on, as I just want a system that works off the ground.
(Other specs: i5 4670K, bog standard Z87 motherboard, 8GB 1600MHz ram).
Your build looks similar to the one I'm speccing. I'm equally torn on graphics card, though thinking of going cheaper than that (more like £200). I just got he 200R, it's a nice case.
Apologies for the non-hardware question. I'm trying to work out why my Windows Aero is being a dick. I'm playing around with Lightboost/Strobelight on my BenQ XL2411T and, on this testufo page, I should see three rows, 30Hz, 60Hz and 120Hz. I don't see the 120 and, after some investigation, I believe I need Aero enabled for it to show up. (I switched from an Aero theme to a Classic theme about a month ago as Aero wasn't playing nice with OBS.)
Despite turning Aero back on (?), I still have the non-Aero windows, the Aero options are greyed out and Peek is non-functional. See screenshot above.
It's probably a long shot, but has anyone run into this problem before, or can anyone point out some obvious tickbox I'm missing. Some regedit 0 I can force into a 1 maybe?
For ref, I've updated my AMD drivers and the GPU is a 7970. I've ran the Aero troubleshoot (no problems found).
Nah, that 80+ gold is beast
Price compare any of the Seasonic Modular or XFX Pros at the same price.
I ran my i5 and 670 on a VP450, 12V rail output seems the same on the VP450P (?)
660 is fine on that
If you can return and grab a 500B for $45 off Amazon that would be good as well, but the PSU is fine.
Any news on if Intel has any plans on releasing a new Haswell that overclocks better than a 4770K? After deliddling I can only stably hit 4.5GHz, using a Koolance Liquid Chiller in a closed case system... By "stably" I mean I can't keep temps below 77c max in-game, Prime95 takes it up even further than that. And my preference for my OC's is always 68c-70c max full load temps.
Issue being that all my other CPU's (well, Sandy/Ivy Bridge) I've OCed to 4.8GHz, and all get better in-game performance than the Haswell at 4.5GHz, even my good ole' i5 2500K@4.8GHz. Which is kind of retarded. Is that normal or is my Haswell 4770K just a shit chip for performance?
I'd love to grab a new Haswell that really caters to enthusiasts that can OC to 4.8GHz on my trusty Corsair H110's, just like my others and stay relatively cool. Just didn't know if there was any news on if there'd be a new Haswell released.
Issue being that all my other CPU's (well, Sandy/Ivy Bridge) I've OCed to 4.8GHz, and all get better in-game performance than the Haswell at 4.5GHz, even my good ole' i5 2500K@4.8GHz. Which is kind of retarded. Is that normal or is my Haswell 4770K just a shit chip for performance?
I'd love to grab a new Haswell that really caters to enthusiasts that can OC to 4.8GHz on my trusty Corsair H110's, just like my others and stay relatively cool. Just didn't know if there was any news on if there'd be a new Haswell released.
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