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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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mkenyon

Banned
Yea, I agree with you guys on the video cards, but I brought all the parts for my new PC build but the video card ( so I have to make a decision now). So, you think in terms of features, will Mantle or/vs G-Sync become the defacto industry standard? I just want to make sure that If I buy a $500 card, I want to be future proof for at least a year and a half for high-end gaming. That's my main worry for ATI vs Nvidia...
You can't compare those features. They both can become standard. Most likely they won't anytime soon, but they can. Decide what you would rather want, potential performance increases or G-Sync. I personally prefer G-Sync, but you may not even buy a monitor with support for it anyway.

Also, because of the bitcoin mining AMD cards may be overpriced and I prefer the additional features of NVidia such as Shadowplay.
Mantle needs to be coded for. G-Sync works always forever on every game.
 
I'm not buying a used video card that someone has most likely used to with in a inch of it's life. Plus a 660ti is hard to find now anyway.

As someone that owns the Asus GTX770 4GB, I can say that it's a fantastic card. It handles everything at max settings and I mean every setting on max and still maintains 60+ FPS. It's the best value when compared to the 760, 780, and any AMD right now with mining which is why I bought it. I would definitely get the 4GB over the 2 as it's only a few bucks difference and will be better should you wish to invest in a higher resolution later. Also, new gen games should start utilizing more RAM as the newest consoles have 8GB.
 

kennah

Member
Please don't bring the 8gb console ram stuff in here. It doesn't work that way.

Also dollar to performance the 760 and 780 are both better value. Sorry.

Separate to you - ain't nothing wrong with used gear.
 

mkenyon

Banned
But but but Free-Sync. It just requires special monitor with special GPU with special drivers..... oh you mean just like G-sync
Well, that part of G-Sync. Let's not forget ULMB, the most important part of G-Sync.
I like warranties when I spend $200+.
The warranty is based on serial number. Just about all cards have 3 year warranties. So, any used card you buy from the last 2 years will have at least a year+ left.
 

scogoth

Member
Well, that part of G-Sync. Let's not forget ULMB, the most important part of G-Sync.

Nope won't use it until I get variable strobe rates. G-Sync with ULMB 144Hz 4K 3D head mounted.

On a more serious topic, my flow rate is down to 0.4. Water temp is hitting 38C under BF4. I either do Dual D5 or the very svelte dual DDC single 5in bay.
 

mkenyon

Banned
The mechanical whirring of DDC is offensive to me, but it is a much more compact and elegant solution. I would never consider putting them in an expansion bay though. Only way I'd consider using them is totally decoupled and surrounded with noise isolating foam.

I can see not wanting to use ULMB when you don't play competitive games too. That makes sense.
 

DarkFlow

Banned
Well, that part of G-Sync. Let's not forget ULMB, the most important part of G-Sync.

The warranty is based on serial number. Just about all cards have 3 year warranties. So, any used card you buy from the last 2 years will have at least a year+ left.
Didn't know that. Thought it was first owner only.
 
So I got my SSD up and running, Windows 8.1 etc etc...

How should I install Steam? I already have a bunch of games/Steam installed on my HDD from my prior setup, but I'm not sure if I should stick to that, or install Steam on C:/ and then use Steam Mover Tool?
 

Erebus

Member
It turns out that my brother's motherboard failed a week ago for some reason.

He had an Asus Rampage IV Extreme and 3820 combo (that's LGA 2011). He has returned it to the shop but since they don't sell this specific motherboard anymore they offered him credit the value of the mobo (around 400€) to buy whatever he wants from there. I suggest him to abandon LGA 2011 altogether, sell the 3820 and switch to Haswell 4770K but he's so stubborn and insists that LGA 2011 is better and more future-proof.

So what would you guys do in his position?
 

mkenyon

Banned
How do I go about getting Windows 8.1 from this reddit thingy?? D:
Buy a key, then follow the guide in the OP to get the actual copy of windows.
It turns out that my brother's motherboard failed a week ago for some reason.

He had an Asus Rampage IV Extreme and 3820 combo (that's LGA 2011). He has returned it to the shop but since they don't sell this specific motherboard anymore they offered him credit the value of the mobo (around 400€) to buy whatever he wants from there. I suggest him to abandon LGA 2011 altogether, sell the 3820 and switch to Haswell 4770K but he's so stubborn and insists that LGA 2011 is better and more future-proof.

So what would you guys do in his position?
I've been in his exact position. But first, I should say that he can still probably get it fixed/replaced under warranty. Contact ASUS, they handle the warranty, not the place he bought it from.

I had a Rampage IV Gene that blew up on me with a 3820. I replaced it with a 4770K and a Gigabyte Sniper M5. I don't regret that ever.

*edit*

If you want exact ammunition to debunk his "future proof claim":

1) There's no more processors that will be released that will work with X79.

2) The only benefit, from a gaming perspective, with X79 is 40 PCI-E lanes, which only matters if he's running 3-4 way SLI/Crossfire.

3) 4770K's are much faster, clock for clock, than a 3820.
 

datruth29

Member
Hey guys, need some advice on making an SSD purchase for my laptop.

I have a Lenovo x220. Love it, works great. Not a gaming machine BY FAR, but it's my workhorse in terms of actually getting stuff down no matter where I go. Plus, it still plays Dota 2 decently enough that I can enjoy it on occasion!

In any case, while it's a wonderful machine, it's in desperate need of an upgrade in terms of Memory and Storage. I'm pretty much going to get the best memory I can that the laptop can support. For storage, I'm thinking about getting a 250GB Samsung 840 Evo. It fits my laptop, has good reviews. Seems pretty legit overall. Just wanted to know if there might be some better alternatives in terms of price/performance. I'm willing to go up to $200 if the increase in performance warrants it.

Mind you, I'm coming from a standard HDD world. As far as I'm concerned, any upgrade to an SSD is probably going to be heavenly tears falling on my face.
 

n64coder

Member
I'm interested in hooking up 2 monitors to my PC at home and I'm wondering if my Gigabyte HD 6450 card will do the trick. I'm currently using the integrated graphics on my Intel i5 HD2000.

I have two monitors: 1650 x 1050 and 1920 x 1080.

The card has 3 ports: DVI, HDMI, and VGA. Will I be able to plug one monitor into the DVI port and one into the VGA port? Could the card actually support 3 monitors plugged into at the same time?

How does one know how many monitors can a graphics card support?

I don't do any gaming on my desktop PC. Just general web browsing and remote desktop into work.
 

kennah

Member
I'm interested in hooking up 2 monitors to my PC at home and I'm wondering if my Gigabyte HD 6450 card will do the trick. I'm currently using the integrated graphics on my Intel i5 HD2000.

I have two monitors: 1650 x 1050 and 1920 x 1080.

The card has 3 ports: DVI, HDMI, and VGA. Will I be able to plug one monitor into the DVI port and one into the VGA port? Could the card actually support 3 monitors plugged into at the same time?

How does one know how many monitors can a graphics card support?

I don't do any gaming on my desktop PC. Just general web browsing and remote desktop into work.
That's pretty much the purpose of those video cards :) it'll work exactly how you think it will. Some models will only support two ports at a time, not three. But it's worth a shot.
 

n64coder

Member
I went ahead and plugged it in and confirmed that it worked. I'm just curious as to how do you know if a card can support the graphic displays that you want to attach to it. Do you need to sum up the resolution of the attached displays and confirm that it does not exceed the max resolution of the card? I'm trying to figure out how to interpret the specs of a given card to confirm that it does what you want it to do.
 

Xamdou

Member
What are your current temps?

Would probably be best to let us know what temps you're getting at the moment and then we can tell you if they are ok or if something is wrong.

I get 25 degrees celsius on idle desktop and max 68 when playing Bioshock Infinite max settings.
 

Niks

Member
Finally went ahead and purchased all the parts for my $1500 build.
Thanks for all the help guys, this thread is great.

Hopefully all the components work A-OK when they arrive.
Now Im off to read all the "putting it together" articles from the OP.
 

thespot84

Member
Fun times with USPS!

The RMA of my corsair h100i got 'lost' while out for delivery. I'll probably get a refund ($60 refurb) but i'm back on stock now for my 4770k and not sure what to do. A retail h100i or 110 is probably a bit steep, and I keep reading that anything less doesn't cool as well as some of the air coolers. Should I just go back to air? help me gaf
 

Tablo

Member
Fun times with USPS!

The RMA of my corsair h100i got 'lost' while out for delivery. I'll probably get a refund ($60 refurb) but i'm back on stock now for my 4770k and not sure what to do. A retail h100i or 110 is probably a bit steep, and I keep reading that anything less doesn't cool as well as some of the air coolers. Should I just go back to air? help me gaf

Corsair H75 85$

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181058
 

Sami+

Member
How does this look for $175?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00966IREK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Says that's how much it'll be after rebate, so I'm mulling it over. How can I tell if it'll be compatible with my current set though? I'm just worried that I'll get a new part and have to deal with a bottleneck or something being incompatible. I apologize for being so generally clueless, but if someone could tell me how I can better understand what I'm getting I'd appreciate it immensely.
 

NoRéN

Member
Fun times with USPS!

The RMA of my corsair h100i got 'lost' while out for delivery. I'll probably get a refund ($60 refurb) but i'm back on stock now for my 4770k and not sure what to do. A retail h100i or 110 is probably a bit steep, and I keep reading that anything less doesn't cool as well as some of the air coolers. Should I just go back to air? help me gaf

That fucking sucks! USPS has been kinda shitty for me too as of late.

Not as good a deal but tigerdirect has the h100i new for $90 after $20 coupon and $10 rebate.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7413643&CatId=499
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Fun times with USPS!

The RMA of my corsair h100i got 'lost' while out for delivery. I'll probably get a refund ($60 refurb) but i'm back on stock now for my 4770k and not sure what to do. A retail h100i or 110 is probably a bit steep, and I keep reading that anything less doesn't cool as well as some of the air coolers. Should I just go back to air? help me gaf
Just grab a nice air cooler imo.
Water for looks or weight concerns.
 

Tablo

Member
How does this look for $175?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00966IREK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Says that's how much it'll be after rebate, so I'm mulling it over. How can I tell if it'll be compatible with my current set though? I'm just worried that I'll get a new part and have to deal with a bottleneck or something being incompatible. I apologize for being so generally clueless, but if someone could tell me how I can better understand what I'm getting I'd appreciate it immensely.

Honestly considering the weak CPU you have getting an AMD GCN based card for Mantle would be smart since it would alleviate your CPU bottleneck allegedly.
Something like a R7 260X or a R9 270X maybe.
 

NoRéN

Member
How does this look for $175?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00966IREK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Says that's how much it'll be after rebate, so I'm mulling it over. How can I tell if it'll be compatible with my current set though? I'm just worried that I'll get a new part and have to deal with a bottleneck or something being incompatible. I apologize for being so generally clueless, but if someone could tell me how I can better understand what I'm getting I'd appreciate it immensely.

If that's the card you are going with then you can get it at newegg with a bigger rebate.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130826

Also includes the game and you may not pay sales tax if they dont have a location in your state.
 

Tablo

Member
the h90 is $10 cheaper with a promo code at newegg, any reason not to get that? I can't tell the difference between any of the 120mm models besides the look of the fan and shape of the plate. is it the pumps?

It's newer, easier to install. Shouldn't tangible performance differences.
I admit at 85$ I wish it was cheaper, but it's pretty new so...
Air is pretty foolproof get a noctua.
 

thespot84

Member
It's newer, easier to install. Shouldn't tangible performance differences.
I admit at 85$ I wish it was cheaper, but it's pretty new so...
Air is pretty foolproof get a noctua.

the 75 is newer and easier? - installation wasn't much of an issue with the h100i, so i'm not worried about that. plus it looked damned awesome.
 

Sami+

Member
Honestly considering the weak CPU you have getting an AMD GCN based card for Mantle would be smart since it would alleviate your CPU bottleneck allegedly.
Something like a R7 260X or a R9 270X maybe.

I'd rather just upgrade both at the same time. Might as well save it until I have the cash to make the switch to Intel, then?
 

Sami+

Member
It's all relative to your budget man, you already have money invested in your current pre-built...

Ah, that was a gift from about two-three years ago now. I'm not likely to do anything now but I'm curious what the best course of action would be if I want a substantial upgrade.

Thanks for the help. c:
 
I recreated ifixit's Steam Machine teardown on PC Part Picker:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2ESua

The only difference is I'm only using 8GB of Ram instead of the Steam Machine's 16GB.

My question is: do you think the GTX 780 will drop in price soon?

That's the card to beat, right? At least for sub-$500? I want to future-proof this thing for quite a few years, so I'm OK going all out on the GPU now. But let me know what youse think.
 

DarkFlow

Banned
I recreated ifixit's Steam Machine teardown on PC Part Picker:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2ESua

The only difference is I'm only using 8GB of Ram instead of the Steam Machine's 16GB.

My question is: do you think the GTX 780 will drop in price soon?

That's the card to beat, right? At least for sub-$500? I want to future-proof this thing for quite a few years, so I'm OK going all out on the GPU now. But let me know what youse think.

There's no way you're going to power that rig with a 450w PSU.
 
You can try it, but a GTX 780 calls for 600w PSU, and the lowest I would dare is 550w.

I searched for "450" in the comments section of that iFixit article, and read some of the comments.

What posters there are saying is Nvidia plays it safe by listing such a high number in the likelihood people buy shitty PSU's. But the reality is Nvidia's GPU's don't draw nearly as much power as cautioned, especially when paired with an i5.

Can anyone confirm?
 

TheD

The Detective
I searched for "450" in the comments section of that iFixit article, and read some of the comments.

What posters there are saying is Nvidia plays it safe by listing such a high number in the likelihood people buy shitty PSU's. But the reality is Nvidia's GPU's don't draw nearly as much power as cautioned, especially when paired with an i5.

Can anyone confirm?

That is correct, the card itself pulls around 230 Watts under full load.
As long as the rest of the system fits under 200 watts at full load (that is likely with what you have in your build) and the PSU is good quality, then you should be fine.
 

foamdino

Member
I'm currently pricing out some options:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsNxr1CZ4odBdFRyOFFfcGlyQmktMk5QLUZHTWhieWc#gid=0

I thought there would be a bigger saving going AMD for CPU+motherboard and found out that intel have been surprisingly cheap - so the cost difference is negligible (so go intel I guess)

Now I thought I'd settled on r9 280, but the nv770 is a tad cheaper and seems to be just as good (if not a little better)

All prices in GBP without rebates/specials and I trust overclockers having bought from there before.

I know very little about cases/psus/monitors so any advice concerning the choices there would be appreciated.
 
I think I've made a mistake with going with the power supply listed on the $840 Haz build. I got the Antec VP450P, which seems like a different PSU, but I've now limited my graphics cards options.

I'm willing to go up to £200 for a graphics card, and I'm so confused as what to get. I was going to just get a 660GTX and upgrade later on, as I just want a system that works off the ground.

(Other specs: i5 4670K, bog standard Z87 motherboard, 8GB 1600MHz ram).

I'm currently pricing out some options:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsNxr1CZ4odBdFRyOFFfcGlyQmktMk5QLUZHTWhieWc#gid=0

I thought there would be a bigger saving going AMD for CPU+motherboard and found out that intel have been surprisingly cheap - so the cost difference is negligible (so go intel I guess)

Now I thought I'd settled on r9 280, but the nv770 is a tad cheaper and seems to be just as good (if not a little better)

All prices in GBP without rebates/specials and I trust overclockers having bought from there before.

I know very little about cases/psus/monitors so any advice concerning the choices there would be appreciated.

Your build looks similar to the one I'm speccing. I'm equally torn on graphics card, though thinking of going cheaper than that (more like £200). I just got he 200R, it's a nice case.
 

Noaloha

Member
ifK2rvzqAnw1y.png

Apologies for the non-hardware question. I'm trying to work out why my Windows Aero is being a dick. I'm playing around with Lightboost/Strobelight on my BenQ XL2411T and, on this testufo page, I should see three rows, 30Hz, 60Hz and 120Hz. I don't see the 120 and, after some investigation, I believe I need Aero enabled for it to show up. (I switched from an Aero theme to a Classic theme about a month ago as Aero wasn't playing nice with OBS.)

Despite turning Aero back on (?), I still have the non-Aero windows, the Aero options are greyed out and Peek is non-functional. See screenshot above.

It's probably a long shot, but has anyone run into this problem before, or can anyone point out some obvious tickbox I'm missing. Some regedit 0 I can force into a 1 maybe?

For ref, I've updated my AMD drivers and the GPU is a 7970. I've ran the Aero troubleshoot (no problems found).
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
There's no way you're going to power that rig with a 450w PSU.
Nah, that 80+ gold is beast
I'm currently pricing out some options:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsNxr1CZ4odBdFRyOFFfcGlyQmktMk5QLUZHTWhieWc#gid=0

I thought there would be a bigger saving going AMD for CPU+motherboard and found out that intel have been surprisingly cheap - so the cost difference is negligible (so go intel I guess)

Now I thought I'd settled on r9 280, but the nv770 is a tad cheaper and seems to be just as good (if not a little better)

All prices in GBP without rebates/specials and I trust overclockers having bought from there before.

I know very little about cases/psus/monitors so any advice concerning the choices there would be appreciated.
Price compare any of the Seasonic Modular or XFX Pros at the same price.
I think I've made a mistake with going with the power supply listed on the $840 Haz build. I got the Antec VP450P, which seems like a different PSU, but I've now limited my graphics cards options.

I'm willing to go up to £200 for a graphics card, and I'm so confused as what to get. I was going to just get a 660GTX and upgrade later on, as I just want a system that works off the ground.

(Other specs: i5 4670K, bog standard Z87 motherboard, 8GB 1600MHz ram).

Your build looks similar to the one I'm speccing. I'm equally torn on graphics card, though thinking of going cheaper than that (more like £200). I just got he 200R, it's a nice case.
I ran my i5 and 670 on a VP450, 12V rail output seems the same on the VP450P (?)
660 is fine on that

If you can return and grab a 500B for $45 off Amazon that would be good as well, but the PSU is fine.
 

ArynCrinn

Banned
Any news on if Intel has any plans on releasing a new Haswell that overclocks better than a 4770K? After deliddling I can only stably hit 4.5GHz, using a Koolance Liquid Chiller in a closed case system... By "stably" I mean I can't keep temps below 77c max in-game, Prime95 takes it up even further than that. And my preference for my OC's is always 68c-70c max full load temps.

Issue being that all my other CPU's (well, Sandy/Ivy Bridge) I've OCed to 4.8GHz, and all get better in-game performance than the Haswell at 4.5GHz, even my good ole' i5 2500K@4.8GHz. Which is kind of retarded. Is that normal or is my Haswell 4770K just a shit chip for performance?

I'd love to grab a new Haswell that really caters to enthusiasts that can OC to 4.8GHz on my trusty Corsair H110's, just like my others and stay relatively cool. Just didn't know if there was any news on if there'd be a new Haswell released.
 
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