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Bicycle age

Jobiensis

Member
Oh my god, that chain. clean and lube it, links might be sticking. Don't replace it, can almost guarantee that you'll need to replace the cassette if you do.

It could just need adjustment, I think to start a clean and lube on the chain, cables, shifters and derailleurs is in order.

If the hanger is bent, you aren't fixing it without a tool. It's also pretty easy to see if it is bent, if you have the tool.

The way that cable goes through the derailleur looks wrong, looks like it could bind, probably wouldn't cause the shifting issues though.

Edit: also verify chainring and cassette/wheel aren't bent (lift bike, rotate wheel, cassette cogs shouldn't wobble too much), spin crank backwards, make sure no chainring wobble.
 

Ecto311

Member
Oh my god, that chain. clean and lube it, links might be sticking. Don't replace it, can almost guarantee that you'll need to replace the cassette if you do.

It could just need adjustment, I think to start a clean and lube on the chain, cables, shifters and derailleurs is in order.

If the hanger is bent, you aren't fixing it without a tool. It's also pretty easy to see if it is bent, if you have the tool.

The way that cable goes through the derailleur looks wrong, looks like it could bind, probably wouldn't cause the shifting issues though.

Edit: also verify chainring and cassette/wheel aren't bent (lift bike, rotate wheel, cassette cogs shouldn't wobble too much), spin crank backwards, make sure no chainring wobble.

Why would a new chain require a new cassette? I have lubed the chain a bit but Ill give it some more WD. I don't mind replacing the parts if that's whats needed and none of the parts here look bent to me, but again, being a moron when it comes to this stuff I just wanted to make sure there is nothing super obvious missing or fucked up.
 

Watevaman

Member
Why would a new chain require a new cassette? I have lubed the chain a bit but Ill give it some more WD. I don't mind replacing the parts if that's whats needed and none of the parts here look bent to me, but again, being a moron when it comes to this stuff I just wanted to make sure there is nothing super obvious missing or fucked up.

WD =/= lube
 
The chain and cogs wear together. If you change one, especially if they are really worn, they won't mesh well and you'll get chain jumping again. Also WD40 may help loosen a stick link, but then use real lube to keep it moving.
 

Ecto311

Member
The chain and cogs wear together. If you change one, especially if they are really worn, they won't mesh well and you'll get chain jumping again. Also WD40 may help loosen a stick link, but then use real lube to keep it moving.

I used the wd to get the rust off - pedaling while holding the chain in steel wool soaked in wd. Googled chain oil and found some old bearded guy completely disassembling his chain. Fuck all that I just need this thing to not shift when I'm going up hill. Had played with the idea of moving the front 3 gears to just 1 and making the rear end maybe a bit smaller also since speed isn't a big deal for me. I just want it as bulletproof as possible on the rear end since I do ride with my daughter and if her old man fucks up she is going down too.
 

Mascot

Member
WD40 will destroy your chain. If you like the convenience of an aerosol then at least use something like GT85 or 3-in-1 as they have PTFE/Teflon added.

Ideally use a proper chain lube, though.
 

Ecto311

Member
WD40 will destroy your chain. If you like the convenience of an aerosol then at least use something like GT85 or 3-in-1 as they have PTFE/Teflon added.

Ideally use a proper chain lube, though.

OK got chain lube proper this morning and going to go out wipe off the rust with the wd then apply the lube. If this doesn't work should I change out the rear shift derailleur?
 

Kraftwerk

Member
Tragic news;



Annefleur-Kalvenhaar-30-kopie-300x199.jpg


Dutch cyclist Annefleur Kalvenhaar has died in hospital after crashing during qualifying at the UCI Mountain Bike World Cup in Méribel, France.

The Focus XC Team rider fell during qualifying on Friday and was taken to Grenoble hospital, where she was put into intensive care. Kalvenhaar passed away on Saturday morning. " "I'm devastated to hear that the cycling family has lost one of its members at such a young age. Our deepest thoughts are with her family and friends," said UCI president Brian Cookson in a statement.

The 20-year-old Kalvenhaar was the reigning under-23 European Cyclocross champion and under-23 Dutch mountain bike champion.

Cyclingnews passes on our condolences to her family.

So young :(
 

Jobiensis

Member
Mascot is right, WD40 will strip the lube off the chain. All you need is a rag and good chain lube, apply, let sit for a couple of minutes, and wipe off. If you habitually clean and lube every couple of rides the chain lasts longer.

OK got chain lube proper this morning and going to go out wipe off the rust with the wd then apply the lube. If this doesn't work should I change out the rear shift derailleur?

I would just use the lube and the rag, WD40 isn't necessary.

Diagnose the problem before buying more stuff. That cable routing looks incredibly wrong to me.
 

Ecto311

Member
I was using the wd40 for rust removal and it worked great then I put on some bike chain lube but have yet to ride it. The cable to that part is on the only way it can go on. I futzed with it for over an hour and there is no other routing it can take. Now that's not to say it's not too tight or the screws are not right but it only fits one way.
 

thomaser

Member
Went on a 113 km road trip today, after a month of only using the mtb. Exhausting but fun! It helped to ride with two others. Found a great climb that I have passed many times before without trying - thought it would be a gravel road, but it was actually asphalt a long way up.

The road bike feels so much more "alive" than the mtb for some reason. Probably because it's much lighter and stiffer, and of course faster. When I replace the mtb one day in the future, I'll get the lightest I can afford.
 

Jobiensis

Member
I was using the wd40 for rust removal and it worked great then I put on some bike chain lube but have yet to ride it. The cable to that part is on the only way it can go on. I futzed with it for over an hour and there is no other routing it can take. Now that's not to say it's not too tight or the screws are not right but it only fits one way.

Looks to me like the cable should go below the tab, there shouldn't be any sharp angles.

How? She ride of a cliff?

I'm not sure how this is a question, a small rock or a small tree can be deadly at speed. Racing isn't quite like riding around in your back yard.
 

Jobiensis

Member
I'm not saying it is, but usually during pro races EMTs are on standby for a crash

Racing is dangerous, I know someone that was in a coma earlier this year from a crash, a road racer and a track racer died last year. All these events had EMTs and this is just in SoCal. EMTs can't do jack shit but prepare you for transport. All the races I've done have had EMTs.
 
Decided I need some serious exercise, bought a bike, been riding for a week now. Feeling like a million bucks after every ride.

Here's a bad pic of a leaning bike.

89yMKF9.jpg
 

fuenf

Member
Can anyone recommend any flat pedals (for around/under £40). Tempted by http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-saint-mx80-flat-pedals/rp-prod82557 to replace my DMR V8's.

I've got them installed on my bike since May and I absolutely love them. They've got a nice big size and lots of grip. The switch from my old standard Cube Aluminium pedals to them was like night and day. I didnt even remove the spacers and have yet to really slip off of them. Your feet can however be knocked off by large vertical forces, which is normal but might surprise you the first time it happens.

The grip however largely depends on the kind of shoes / soles you are wearing. If your sole is relatively flat or ribbed they'll most certainly do great. You can even slightly 'pull' the pedal up if necessary during a climb.

edit: one more thing, while it hurts a little whenever you hit the pins with your shin, they havent ripped into my skin yet (It's a concern many have with these type of pedals).
 
I'm trying to identify a bike. The serial number has been filed off and painted over with Army green paint so there's no markings on the frame at all. However, the headset has a stylized shopping cart logo on it so there's that. I search Google and all I get are shopping carts with bicycle wheels so I'm hoping that someone here will be familiar with it so I can get started.

I've looked on Craigslist to see if anyone's reported it missing and haven't seen anything yet, but I also put a pic in there in lost and found on the off chance someone is looking.
 

Pinkuss

Member
I've got them installed on my bike since May and I absolutely love them. They've got a nice big size and lots of grip. The switch from my old standard Cube Aluminium pedals to them was like night and day. I didnt even remove the spacers and have yet to really slip off of them. Your feet can however be knocked off by large vertical forces, which is normal but might surprise you the first time it happens.

The grip however largely depends on the kind of shoes / soles you are wearing. If your sole is relatively flat or ribbed they'll most certainly do great. You can even slightly 'pull' the pedal up if necessary during a climb.

edit: one more thing, while it hurts a little whenever you hit the pins with your shin, they havent ripped into my skin yet (It's a concern many have with these type of pedals).

Cheers, shall get to ordering then. They look better than my DMR's which gripped fine but the build quality wasn't too great. (I've also had the shin hitting way too many times; I've ripped too many good jeans because of it).
 
Shin hitting has more to do with a poor attack posture and poor foot placement than the quality of your shoes / pedals (assuming you're not using some plastic shite for pedals).

Ironically the better pedals will actually do more damage to your shins because they tend to come with far more vicious pin placement.

As for a recommendation:

Wellgo B144: http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/403/0302310184/wellgo-b144-flat-pedal.html
Superstar Nanotech: http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/cnc-nano-tech-flats.htm (Currently out of stock)
 

Mascot

Member
I'm trying to identify a bike. The serial number has been filed off and painted over with Army green paint so there's no markings on the frame at all. However, the headset has a stylized shopping cart logo on it so there's that. I search Google and all I get are shopping carts with bicycle wheels so I'm hoping that someone here will be familiar with it so I can get started.

I've looked on Craigslist to see if anyone's reported it missing and haven't seen anything yet, but I also put a pic in there in lost and found on the off chance someone is looking.
Post a photo of it here - someone might recognise the make?
 

fuenf

Member
Cheers, shall get to ordering then. They look better than my DMR's which gripped fine but the build quality wasn't too great. (I've also had the shin hitting way too many times; I've ripped too many good jeans because of it).

Build quality is great, I once hit a rock while pedalling and it only left a light scratch. They survived an embarrassing low speed crash on a parking lot (don't ask) with only a scratch to the side too, despite the whole weight basically landing on the pedal (and handlebar). As far as I can tell the only real downside is their relatively high weight. Haven't become loose yet either.


Regarding the shin hitting, I'm sure that they can rip into things quite easily without spacers(washers) , but I actually have yet to slip off of them while riding. It's really hard to do so without raising your leg first. I do however always hit my shin on them whenever I push my bike into the cellar ;) but so far everything has been fine.
 

Mascot

Member
Build quality is great, I once hit a rock while pedalling and it only left a light scratch. They survived an embarrassing low speed crash on a parking lot (don't ask) with only a scratch to the side too, despite the whole weight basically landing on the pedal (and handlebar). As far as I can tell the only real downside is their relatively high weight. Haven't become loose yet either.


Regarding the shin hitting, I'm sure that they can rip into things quite easily without spacers(washers) , but I actually have yet to slip off of them while riding. It's really hard to do so without raising your leg first. I do however always hit my shin on them whenever I push my bike into the cellar ;) but so far everything has been fine.

I couldn't manage without SPDs. It just feels weird not being joined to the bike. Plus, on my last ride my left knee collapsed (an old injury at least thirty years old, crops up every couple of years) so I had to ride ten miles home only able to pull up with my left pedal. Without SPDs it would have been impossible to ride and would have meant a long, long walk back.
 
Post a photo of it here - someone might recognise the make?

Ah...it's currently in several pieces strewn across my garage as I'm rebuilding it, plus I've already stripped the paint off the fork and was going to start on the frame this weekend.
QixYYjF.png


I'll take a pic of the frame when I get home, along with a pic of the handlebars/stem as that's where the shopping cart logo is.
I couldn't manage without SPDs. It just feels weird not being joined to the bike. Plus, on my last ride my left knee collapsed (an old injury at least thirty years old, crops up every couple of years) so I had to ride ten miles home only able to pull up with my left pedal. Without SPDs it would have been impossible to ride and would have meant a long, long walk back.

Had the same thing happen to me 15 miles from home this summer. I tried pulling up but that hurt too, had to call my sag wagon (my wife) to come pick me up.
 
I bought a hybrid about a year ago, can I just put drop handles on it and call it a day? I don't know if I bought the wrong kind of bike so I thought I'd try some drop handles to see if I prefer crouched over since I don't want to spend another tonne of money on a dedicated road bike until I know that I'm happy hunched over.
 

Aiustis

Member
I bought a hybrid about a year ago, can I just put drop handles on it and call it a day? I don't know if I bought the wrong kind of bike so I thought I'd try some drop handles to see if I prefer crouched over since I don't want to spend another tonne of money on a dedicated road bike until I know that I'm happy hunched over.

You totally can I swap out styles of handlebars all the time. Right now I use upright, but I put them in upside down

Edit:

Everyone (on the internet) hates cyclists. drivers want you off the road and pedestrians wants you off the sidewalks/paths

I'm so glad the very different cyclist communities here work well together.
 

Jobiensis

Member
I bought a hybrid about a year ago, can I just put drop handles on it and call it a day? I don't know if I bought the wrong kind of bike so I thought I'd try some drop handles to see if I prefer crouched over since I don't want to spend another tonne of money on a dedicated road bike until I know that I'm happy hunched over.

Yes, you can buy drop bars and install them.

But if you want to shift and brake like a road bike, you also need new shifters, and your derailleurs and brakes may not me compatible with road shifters/brakes.

Will your handler bars be in a position that is comparable to a road bike? maybe

Will you be in a position comparable to a road bike? maybe

If your hybrid is more of a flat bar road bike (Sirrus or such), you will probably be pretty close.

There are a lot of options on road bikes, even a 'race' road bike usually has very little drop stock.

Edit: Sorry, I kind of ended that mid thought.

If you're just curious, I wouldn't waste any money on it, ride what you have. If you kind of want a road bike and to be faster, but are worried you won't deal well with the positions, just save money and get the road bike. There is a lot of flexibility on positions, and once you have yours dialed in, you still have the choice between tops, hoods and drops. Even in racing I know people that spend very little time in the drops.
 

kottila

Member
omg, a poster after my heart! inrng is such a great blog. there's a 3 year running debate at the bikeradar forums who the author actually is.

Inrng is probably my favorit blog, but the author dosen't appear to be that connected. @raceradio seems to know a lot of people, but I still have no idea who he is. I think he was outed on the cyclingnews forums once, but the mods deleted everything
 

Jobiensis

Member
Oh yeah, hoods can be just as aero, and if you want real aero, IAB is preferred (but not in a pack). Big drop also means you cut off some breathing ability too. Almost everyone who races, slams their stem, even if they aren't flexible enough to support it.

But the drops aren't about aero, it's about control and power. You don't have a good grip on the handlebars in the hoods, your weight is too far backwards. It is fine for cruising in the pack, but during a crit, descent or sprint, it is safer for everyone involved if you are in the drops.
 

Jasup

Member
I just called the police to catch a bike thief who tried to steal a bike from my apartment building's front yard.

They caught the guy, returned the bike and I'm now a witness.
Luckily the guy was very drunk, it made witnessing the whole ordeal much easier as I was coming home from a night out with a friend myself.

A fun way to end the day.
 
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