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Bicycle age

HTupolev

Member
I mean just a tube like these that you use a clamp to attach to.

Rather than like these more modern affairs: https://www.velogear.com.au/bike-parts/bike-parts/seat-posts-clamps/alloy-seat-posts.html
Ah.

How the assembly all clamps together doesn't determine what rails you can clamp to, though.

How old are we talking about? My bikes from the 70s and 80s have their original posts, and they're like the ones you're calling "modern." I've also seen relatively recent (cheap) bikes that use posts where the clamp is a fully separate entity like in the case of what you're calling "not modern."
 

kottila

Member
26197261371_968f92ec53_z.jpg
[/url]IMGP0167 by Jotale Cosmosis, on Flickr[/IMG]

Super late with this because I lost it on one of my 80 tabs.

Don't think I've seen cable routing like that before. Did you do it yourself?
 

kottila

Member
Nope; bike shop did it. I can't put my lock holder on because of it, but I can't be arsed to change it myself.

I studied it a bit closer, and I'm not sure what I was reacting to. It actually looks a lot like the routing on my own bike (except that the cable is on the bottom of the down tube). I guess I was tricked by the angle and the strong constrast colors (I love orange btw!)
 
So... are the main levers detached from the brakes, or is there a clever system that I'm not seeing that gives you two brake levers? The classic approach to having brakes in the middle of the bars was to have the inner levers pivot off of the main brake levers, so they were all the same mechanism, but that doesn't seem to be the case here.

.

This is confusing to me too. The only thing I can think of is they were put that way because the rider is more comfortable with their hands on the bar versus the drops so it's a faster way to hit the brakes. Though at that point why not just install a flat bar with a slight swoop?
 

teepo

Member
one of my best friends has secondary brakes on his ride while my other friend has his breaks on just the top of his drop handlebar

maybe that explains why those two stopped being friends
 

HTupolev

Member
Yay my new cadence sensor works!

"Hey cadence sensor, what was my RPM at this point in the ride?"
"96"
"Hey cadence sensor, what was my RPM at this other point in the ride?"
"101"
"Well, what about this more different point?"
"98"

Super interesting stuff!

If you've never taken a cadence sensor with you on a flat solo road ride, you have no idea what you're missing out on!
 
/suspiciousface

It's actually really useful as an indicator of when to change gear when you're really pushing yourself up a hill. I find if I can get to 95rpm I can generally handle the next gear up... and I always keep trying to get to the next gear.
 
First day of fixie commuting done, 36km of weirdness. It takes a bit of getting used to for sure, but it's way easier than I thought it would be. The hardest part is learning to shift weight while pedaling.

Also, I didn't realize how much you need to use your abs while riding fixed. They're actually a bit sore right now. Or it might be gas.
 
First day of fixie commuting done, 36km of weirdness. It takes a bit of getting used to for sure, but it's way easier than I thought it would be. The hardest part is learning to shift weight while pedaling.

Also, I didn't realize how much you need to use your abs while riding fixed. They're actually a bit sore right now. Or it might be gas.

Could be body positioning. IIRC you ride mountain primarily which is more of a variable position and such than being on the road where you're in a more fixed (no pun) position.
 
Hey bicycle age-GAF,

I joined your club yesterday. After I haven't rode a bike for 6 years, did half marathons on foot and a convincing girlfriend, I bought a cyclocross bike. I needed a bike which I could use a bit on the daily use, but I always wanted a road bike too. So a cyclocross bike seemed like a perfect choice. I have a lot to learn like how to shift correctly. But it was fun to drive 40 kilometers home or driving a street downhill with 40kmph/25mph.

Anyone has some tips for a newbie? Thanks in advance.

btw. thats my bike
 
Nice bike, it's right there at the bang for buck sweet spot IMO. As a relatively recent convert myself, I can only say ride often, even small distances. It's amazing how fast everyday cycling builds up your abilities.
 
Paris-Roubaix is pretty intense this year. Things aren't looking that good for Sagan but the way he stoppied after hopping over a crashed rider was pretty great.
 
Found my way up to Cannock Chase for a ride that I've been meaning to do for some time. Place was crazy, crazy busy which spoiled a few of the descents, but was a great ride on the whole. Much more technical than anything I've been doing of late, but that was good as I really needed a kick in the arse to get back on with getting my skill levels up.

Screwed up two features (one up, one down) but I'm still pretty pleased with how it all went given I've done nothing nastier than swoopy blues lately.

Oh, and got to see possibly the nerdiest bike supplies cabinet ever...

09CH8yl.jpg
 

Aiustis

Member
Hey bicycle age-GAF,

I joined your club yesterday. After I haven't rode a bike for 6 years, did half marathons on foot and a convincing girlfriend, I bought a cyclocross bike. I needed a bike which I could use a bit on the daily use, but I always wanted a road bike too. So a cyclocross bike seemed like a perfect choice. I have a lot to learn like how to shift correctly. But it was fun to drive 40 kilometers home or driving a street downhill with 40kmph/25mph.

Anyone has some tips for a newbie? Thanks in advance.

btw. thats my bike

Practice is usually the best advice. Learn what's comfortable for you. I always suggest carrying simple repair tools and an extra tube.
 

teepo

Member
Paris-Roubaix is pretty intense this year. Things aren't looking that good for Sagan but the way he stoppied after hopping over a crashed rider was pretty great.

it was an incredible race this year, though isn't that the case nearly ever year? though that sagan dodge was god tier level handling.

KrE3kz.gif
 

HTupolev

Member
Watching cyclists after the installation of the local velodrome compelled my grandpa to buy a road bike back in the 70s.

The bike being passed on to me got me into cycling.

Time to take this party back to the big concrete oval.

What will hopefully be my final N+1 in a decently long time is underway.

Bike pics eventually, but a bunch of stuff needs to come in first, including the bike.

it was an incredible race this year, though isn't that the case nearly ever year? though that sagan dodge was god tier level handling.

KrE3kz.gif
o_O

I always suggest carrying simple repair tools and an extra tube.
Yep. At a minimum:
1-Spare tube
2-Patches (they weigh nothing, are cheap, and take up no space, so you might as well, especially if you're on clinchers)
3-Multi-tool
4-Some way of inflating tubes (pump or CO2 system)
5-Tire levers

Saddle bags are great for carrying this stuff in, although a pump should maybe be installed in a mount that goes on the same bosses as the bottle cages, or else shoved into a jersey pocket, unless you have a HUGE saddle bag that fits your pump.
 

Mascot

Member
Core usage is usually key for higher cadences. You need to lock yourself in place so that you can get the power down cleanly without bouncing all over the shop.

Edit - Just added the YT Jeffsy to my new trail bike shortlist (currently the only 29er on there):

12-1459951658810-19q8w4mhrzf2w-960-540.jpg


http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/news/a...-is-one-of-the-coolest-29ers-out-there-46763/

Yeah, I've had my eye on the 650b 2016 YT Capra Al Comp for a while. I know their reasons for making the Jeffsy a 29er but my next bike WILL be a 650b.

CAPRA-AL-Comp-1_Side-view-e1448057384837.jpg


YT bikes are incredible value for money already but they were hundreds of pounds cheaper a while ago when the Euro/Sterling exchange rate was more in our favour. If we get that swing again I might just bite.
 
Paris-Roubaix is pretty intense this year. Things aren't looking that good for Sagan but the way he stoppied after hopping over a crashed rider was pretty great.

The classics are always hard to nail down, especially Roubaix. The make up and build required for the races is far different than your typical road race.
 
On most garage doors I've had, that would have been enough. It's where the locking arm usually sits (you can cut it or move it). Thankfully the design is different on that door.

I reckon they were probably also trying to get at the catch on the back of the lock.
 
Ehh, I could buy a new bike at any point to be honest, but it wouldn't really make up for how gutted I'd be if I lost old faithful.

Ignoring the fact that it's completely custom, so getting fair value for it would be a nightmare.
 

HTupolev

Member
This is going to sound bizarre, but a part of me wants to attach a pre-indexing derailleur to my stumpjumper drop bar conversion.

An aspect of modern derailleurs that is extremely helpful to indexing, and which never gets talked about, is that the jockey wheel has a small amount of lateral "play." It'll naturally try and track to whatever gear is closest.
If you have an indexed setup where the shifter is constantly trying to place the derailleur into a position roughly around one of your gears, this is great. It means that your cable tension can suffer quite a bit of alignment badness before it actually causes problems.

If you have a friction setup and your shift happens to land pretty close to one of the gears, this is also great. Couple it with a light shifter and, even with a cheap long-cage derailleur, it feels just as light and snappy as decent not-really-long-cage stuff like 5800 105.
BUT, if you shift and the lever lands right between two gears, when the jockey wheel play is coupled with the smooth chain release of modern freewheel cogs, you can wind up with the rather interesting situation that the chain starts hopping between cogs depending on your pedal torque. And by "interesting" I mean "hmmmmmmmmm."
And because the derailleur always slides itself into place, there's not much feedback to help you learn or feel where the gears are.

With a fully-vintage setup, errors in shifter placement result in clacking. It means you have to be more precise, but it also constantly tells you what "being more precise" means.

Or I could just index the rear shifter, because it turns out it is totally compatible. But that thing feels stupid heavy in indexed mode, the clicking action being very tight. In friction mode, the shifter rides on a cloud like it's some kind of Simplex retrofriction shit, and I don't want to give that up.
Or I could just ignore the quirk and deal with it. And tell myself that it's an anti-theft device, because someone trying to ride off who isn't aware of the issue will suddenly experience a massive number of ghosts shifts while trying to ride on the unintentionally boeshield-smeared crappy platform side of the pedals and thus fall off the bike.

Oh well.

Now, the question is, if I change my mind and decide to commit, what derailleur should I use? I don't have any actual vintage components.
Although, I do have something that might provide a similar kind of jank. Thinking that I might build the Bridgestone RB-T (that I've used for parts) back up into a bike to get rid of, I picked up a $9 rear derailleur new.
Yes, $9. New.
Check this out.


Wow! It looks like a cheap claw knockoff of something from a 1960s catalog!

But it gets better.


Cheapo derailleur causes cancer, apparently.

Of course, it also isn't actually pre-indexing, so it might wind up being too fancy to solve the quirk.

I think I'll just HTFU and learn to shift better. That twig that for some reason I haven't bothered clearing out from the second-to-largest cog might be contributing to the problem, too.

Some fucking cunts tried to steal my bikes

MsBKnmI.jpg
Terrifying.
 

Mascot

Member
Ehh, I could buy a new bike at any point to be honest, but it wouldn't really make up for how gutted I'd be if I lost old faithful.

Ignoring the fact that it's completely custom, so getting fair value for it would be a nightmare.

Can't remember if I mentioned it before, but a while ago I was woken up in the middle of the night by a strange noise combo of banging and electric motor whirring. I looked out of the window and saw that a neighbour's automatic up-and-over garage door was opening a few inches then closing, with the light turning on and off with every cycle. I know he'd had a problem with it so made a mental note to call him in the morning. What I couldn't see was the sneaky little thundercunt hidden behind his car who was trying to prise the door open wide enough to crawl in and steal three mountain bikes (and maybe a couple of motorbikes). Luckily my neighbour did spot him and chased him off. He's now in the process of getting an automatic door like mine that rolls up like a shutter (with no external lock or handle) and is much harder to break into.
 
I would not back anything on indiegogo since they don't have a vetting process or requirements for any hardware related item.

That said, it's doing well because it's an electric bike
 
But there's no shortage of electric bikes in actual bike shops, like... right now. Why would people need to back a shitty looking one on indiegogo?

I guess it's reasonably cheap. But that's easily explained by the crappy components.
 
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