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Bicycle age

Wait, hang on. That bike has shifters, and no gears, and brakes levers, but no brakes (and one of the brake levers isn't attached).

Edit - Ahh, i see that's the point. Cranks wouldn't turn either.
 

HTupolev

Member
why does the butt need to hurt so bad.
Find a saddle that fits. Note that padding puts pressure on sensitive areas, so lots of padding is bad once the sit bones have acclimated to a saddle, especially on long rides.

Use chamois to prevent chaffing. Bonus points if it has bib suspenders.

Do not skimp on chamois cream.

Sometimes the butt just needs to wake up, and will hurt ten minutes into a ride but not forty minutes in.
 
Find a saddle that fits. Note that padding puts pressure on sensitive areas, so lots of padding is bad once the sit bones have acclimated to a saddle, especially on long rides.

Use chamois to prevent chaffing. Bonus points if it has bib suspenders.

Do not skimp on chamois cream.

Sometimes the butt just needs to wake up, and will hurt ten minutes into a ride but not forty minutes in.

yea well after 3 hours of riding for the first time in 14 years I could barely sit after that

an then returning to it this past weekend, it started hurting again immediately
 

HTupolev

Member
Edit - Ahh, i see that's the point. Cranks wouldn't turn either.
They might, if the steering column was held stiff in a position where chain tension isn't too high, and if the cranks could clear the tires. It would still be unrideable though, since there'd be no way to steer.

IDK we started out and I was enjoying it a lot, I wanted to keep going..

take that as you will
an then returning to it this past weekend, it started hurting again immediately
It sounds like you were overenthusiastic and you injured yourself.

Take some time off to heal, ease back in, if you find that you cannot acclimate to the sit region after multiple rides then you perhaps need a different saddle. Out of curiosity, what does your saddle look like (i.e. a picture)?
 
They might, if the steering column was held stiff in a position where chain tension isn't too high, and if the cranks could clear the tires. It would still be unrideable though, since there'd be no way to steer.



It sounds like you were overenthusiastic and you injured yourself.

Take some time off to heal, ease back in, if you find that you cannot acclimate to the sit region after multiple rides then you perhaps need a different saddle. Out of curiosity, what does your saddle look like (i.e. a picture)?

I might be able to get a pic later

its just a plain hard seat lol
 
BEEEEEEEFCAKE:

4dfb5f35437979.56f732fae7da8.jpg
It's like m.c. Esher designed a bike.
 

Teggy

Member
Hey guys, first time posting in here. I'm looking to buy a road bike mainly for recreation and exercise, but I'll also be training to do a reasonable century in the fall (it's literally called "the flattest century in the east"). I was looking to spend around $1k US and have found some models that look interesting. I've kind of limited myself to brands I know of, but it seems there are a lot of brands I'm not aware of and am fine being introduced to new ones.

These are some of the bikes I'm looking at and was wondering if anyone had an opinion on any of them:

Specialized Allez E5 Sport
Specialized Allez Smartweld (DSW) Elite
Cannondale CAAD8 Sora
Cannondale CAAD8 Tiagra
Giant Defy 3
Giant Defy 2 Disc
Trek 1.2

I appreciate any help.
 

teepo

Member
those are some of the best frames within that price range but if i had to choose one, it would be the allez elite. specalized's tarmac is a top tier best bike frame with several grand tours having been won ridden on one and the allez is just a budget version of it with the only key difference being that it's built from aluminum rather than carbon fiber. not to mention, it's gorgeous. it's not uncommon to see allez frames from the 90s still being used frequently to this day.

but if you can get one of those frames with a 105 groupset...
 

HTupolev

Member
These are some of the bikes I'm looking at and was wondering if anyone had an opinion on any of them:
You basically just picked all of the directly-competing entry-level bikes from the huge manufacturers. Besides subtleties of preference, they're all going to be pretty close to the same quality, with the more expensive ones seeing better components i.e. Tiagra instead of Sora. And you really won't go horribly wrong with any of them.

The only real opinion I have is that the Defy's seat stays make it incredibly ugly, and the bike would have to have significant advantages to make me consider it over the offerings from other manufacturers.

If you're looking for alternative brands, consider Fuji. For instance, this is quite a bit like the $1200 bikes you're looking at, for $1050 and potentially even a bit lighter:
http://www.fujibikes.com/bike/details/roubaix-153
And here's a slightly more expensive bike, and a few pounds heavier, but comes with full 105 and disc brakes and should be excellent for flat endurance riding:
http://www.fujibikes.com/bike/details/sportif-13-disc2
 

Teggy

Member
Thanks for the feedback. That second Fuji is definitely intriguing - better parts and a trade off of speed for comfort sounds fine.

I'll have to see what dealers are nearby so I can get a look at some of these.
 

teepo

Member
also check out performancebike. they have amazing deals, especially in the $1k range with plenty of bikes fully equipped with 105s, like this for example.

to top it off, you'll get at least 10% cash back in rewards with any purchase when you're a member and had you bought your bike over the weekend, you would've received 20%. active junky also gives you an additional 5%, so you would be looking at around $50 in cash and $200 you could spend on a full kit and then some.

though do try to avoid the exclusive performance bike frames -- even though i linked you to one -- because a lot of LBS will know and they won't appreciate you bringing it in.
 

robox

Member
if you're open to minor excursions off road, i find the GT Grade is an intriguing option. the sora version is cheaper by a few hundred there. such bikes are currently trending
 

teepo

Member
gravel bikes are quietly all the rage. some of the better frames simply can't keep up with demand though i still don't really understand the difference between them and cyclocross bikes outside of the geometry being slightly more forgiving on the body, in some cases. and then some bike manufactures are advertising cyclo and gravel bikes as adventure bikes? it's fucking maddening.

fucking don drapers
 

HTupolev

Member
Pictured: me having repeatedly pretended that I can clean my crankset without actually taking any chainrings off.

fRdospd.jpg


(AKA the "until I shift onto the big ring once, people will be tricked into thinking my drivetrain looks clean" technique.)
 
Pictured: me having repeatedly pretended that I can clean my crankset without actually taking any chainrings off.



(AKA the "until I shift onto the big ring once, people will be tricked into thinking my drivetrain looks clean" technique.)

Get a soft brush on a longer wand. Something that is flexible and maleable which can be worked into those spaces. Get it in with a good lather and just let it sit for a 30-1 minute. Then hit it with some water. It wont be perfect, but it should break up most of it.
 
PT, what's your cousin's (nephew's?) experience been like with his Canyon (and which exact model was it)?

I had a discussion recently with my shop owner about Canyon. He said the reason they may get any kind of bad review is because of improper set ups. Since they're direct to consumer you may end up with a chunk of people who don't know how to properly build a bike. So they get a Canyon, try to build, end up having an issue and wind up blaming it on Canyon.
 

Mascot

Member
His was a Nerve AL 8.0, and aside from not really pushing the boundaries on it, he definitely likes it. Nice, light bit of kit.

Yeah, i was looking at the 8.0 but with the current discount on the 7.0, £500 difference seemed a lot for some minor upgrades on a few components and a 500g weight saving.

How was the sizing after using their calculator? Their guide puts me in the 'M' category at 6'1" tall, with only the 'L' as the bigger size. Probably about right, I guess. They need to cater for taller riders.
 
If you use their sizer (accessible from the order page), make sure you have really accurate numbers for all your measurements. It goes a bit strange if you're off.

He's on a small, but I think he's only about 5' 7". It sizes me out to a medium at 5' 10". I'm surprised you wouldn't be a large, so you might want to search around to see what other people around your height say.
 

Mascot

Member
If you use their sizer (accessible from the order page), make sure you have really accurate numbers for all your measurements. It goes a bit strange if you're off.

He's on a small, but I think he's only about 5' 7". It sizes me out to a medium at 5' 10". I'm surprised you wouldn't be a large, so you might want to search around to see what other people around your height say.

I'm guessing you're near the bottom of the 'M' range at 5'10" and I'm near the top at 6'1". I had to fudge the figures north quite a bit before it put me up to an 'L'.
 

Mascot

Member
Interesting. Well, at least you wouldn't end up with a bike that was too big for you.

Been reading up a bit on various websites and it seems the main measurement the sizing software uses is the inseam. By stuffing a tape measure up my taint, balls forward, I get 87cm (or 34", which I thought I was). This (along with my other dimensions) spits out a 'Medium'. If I leave all the other dimensions alone and increase the inseam measurement by just 5mm, it puts me in as a 'Large'. So I am right on the cusp.

I've read a few comments from Nerve owners online who said the sizes err on the small size, with riders 5'11" - 6'0" saying they bought a Large and it feels spot-on. I guess if reach becomes an issue a shorter stem would solve it. Better than being cramped.
 
Been reading up a bit on various websites and it seems the main measurement the sizing software uses is the inseam. By stuffing a tape measure up my taint, balls forward, I get 87cm (or 34", which I thought I was). This (along with my other dimensions) spits out a 'Medium'. If I leave all the other dimensions alone and increase the inseam measurement by just 5mm, it puts me in as a 'Large'. So I am right on the cusp.

I've read a few comments from Nerve owners online who said the sizes err on the small size, with riders 5'11" - 6'0" saying they bought a Large and it feels spot-on. I guess if reach becomes an issue a shorter stem would solve it. Better than being cramped.
Oh la la.

Got a Salsa Vaya the other day. Holy cow this thing is heavy. Like, I was pushing it this morning on a stretch that I can usually do 20+ and I'm lucky to be hitting 15+. Bigger tires, heavy frame, heavy rack...but it's so nice riding on these 35s, it's like I'm riding on air after the 23s I'm used to.

I tell you what, if I'm not faster on the road bike after riding this to work and back I'm not sure what else I can do. I'm hitting the same average travel time to and from - 1:05 - but my average speed is lower. Figure that one out.
 

Quasar

Member
So...looking towards replace my seat pillar with a seatpost.

See a few different types, such as pivotal ones. Are there any reasons to choose one type over another?

Are pivotal ones just for bmx bikes?
 

teepo

Member
Good to know. BTW, does anyone have an opinion on Kestrel? It seems to be an "in" brand.

kestrel is an odd brand. they were the first to design an all carbon bike frame in the mid 80s when people only theorized the pros and cons in using material that was generally reserved for the aerospace industry, with durability and stiffness being the two major concerns. despite being the first in the market, kestrel frames were rather inexpensive and as a result gained a rather large following in the states that lasted all through out the 90s, especially after greg lemond won the tour de france in 86 using an aero carbon fiber prototype from look.

at some point kestrel lost all of its talent and was bought by whatever taiwanese holding company that houses fuji and a few other cycling brands. the quality immediately dropped once the frames were designed and manufactured in taiwan versus the states and the brand slowly faded away to irrelevancy during the 2000s. save for one or two models which targeted the pros, the name basically sat dormant for years and only recently have they begun to quietly rebuild the brand through what made it famous in the first place, selling affordable carbon fiber frames with quality components.

this is all from memory since i was seriously considering buying a kestrel legend two years ago for a fraction of the retail price. the quality problems from the mid 2000s still haunt the brand but ever since the holding company transferred the brand over to fuji, the quality has much improved. i've only heard good things about modern kestrel frames from owners though there is still a stigma from non owners for bikes designed and manufactured in asia despite the latter being the norm now a days.
 

Mascot

Member
Looking at the Cannondale Trigger 2 Carbon now. A £4k 2015 bike now available for £2k. Batshit crazy Lefty fork and pull rear shock. Great reviews.

Always had a soft spot for 'Dales. I've owned a few.

CANNONDALE-TRIGGER-27.5-CARBON-2-2015.jpg


Trigger-1.jpg


Mmmm...
 

Laekon

Member
Lefty's can need a lot of maintenance but they are good forks. People have silly issues with them that don't make any sense. The bigger issue with that bike is the failure rate of the rear frame for people that ride hard.

The Honzo is a hard tail, so how does that compare? The Process is the similar Kona.
 

Laekon

Member
Sorry for the double post but I don't check up on this thread often.

So...looking towards replace my seat pillar with a seatpost.

See a few different types, such as pivotal ones. Are there any reasons to choose one type over another?

Are pivotal ones just for bmx bikes?

Pivotal seat post are mostly limited to bmx bikes because of the size of the post available and the saddles made for them. If you can find a regular size pivotal seat and a post that fits your bike there is nothing wrong with using one. It's a strong system. If it's just for regular riding though you can just get a basic seat post for $15-20 that hold up just fine. Its one of the last parts of a bike worth upgrading.
 

Mascot

Member
I can't be dealing with those lefty forks. Doubly the sort that are upside down.

Don't go lefty

Why, and why? Lefties, especially the newer Lefties, are very highly rated.

Lefty's can need a lot of maintenance but they are good forks. People have silly issues with them that don't make any sense. The bigger issue with that bike is the failure rate of the rear frame for people that ride hard.

I couldn't find anything at all about this?

Anyway, I was in final negotiations for a nearly-new one for £1,500 but it sold overnight, so I've gone off the idea pending a similar deal.
 
My issue is simply with symmetry. I also can't buy wonky cars.

As for the upside down fork, everyone I know who has one had to service them continuously as they're always getting full of grit and mud.

Edit - Plus it definitely screws with the balance of the bike, though how much that'll affect most people depends how sensitive they are.
 
From what I've been told from the people at my shop they're a pain in the ass. They also end up with some weird force/tension angles because of the way the design is. I'm sure they're solid, but as someone with a Cannondale (granted it's from 96) I don't know if I'll ever go the proprietary route again.
 
On the stiction, they don't actually build them that way any more. The new ones have seals, so basically exactly the same as any other fork in that respect.
 

Laekon

Member
Why, and why? Lefties, especially the newer Lefties, are very highly rated.



I couldn't find anything at all about this?

Anyway, I was in final negotiations for a nearly-new one for £1,500 but it sold overnight, so I've gone off the idea pending a similar deal.

Have seen it more often then is normal at the shop I've been working at. The rear end seems to flex vertically to much for the seat stays. Cannondale takes care of it really quick.
 

Laekon

Member
On the stiction, they don't actually build them that way any more. The new ones have seals, so basically exactly the same as any other fork in that respect.
A bushing and a seal aren't the same thing. The Lefty stills relies on bearings instead of bushings.
 
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