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[Psychotext]

Any of you guys know if those two listed bikes are decent?

Main problem with both of those bikes is the fork. The XCT fork isn't a good one: http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/mountain/product/review-giant-revel-0-11-42756, and the XCM on the Norco is even worse. That said, the XCT reviewed there is the 26er model. Whilst the 29er version still wont be a particularly high end fork, it might be better than the old version.

If I had to pick I'd probably go with the Giant as the brakes and the gearing are noticeable better than that of the Norco. At the end of the day if you enjoyed the test ride and didn't notice the limitations of the fork then you should be perfectly happy (and if you want you can always upgrade the fork in a year when your skill level exceeds its capabilities).

how do i clean this rust
also, my bike is making constant sqeeking sounds when i ride it, i have no clue what's making it

You wont get the rust off now. In future, make sure you wash your drivetrain thoroughly and rinse it properly whenever you've ridden on the road (especially in winter). If you get salt on your drivetrain and it stays there... that's what happens.

Like ch0mp says, clean it with degreaser, lube it up (just your chain, not the cassette, if you do your cassette it'll just attract dirt) and then wipe off any excess.

 

[Jobiensis]

how do i clean this rust
also, my bike is making constant sqeeking sounds when i ride it, i have no clue what's making it

My recommendation: Toss the chain and cassette

If you absolutely want to save it, scrub everything with a brush (hot water w/ some Dawn). Take off the chain and cassette and soak them overnight in a light motor oil, then let them sit on a rag for a day to drain. The rust itself isn't the problem, it is more about if the chain/teeth have been weakened by the corrosion and the complete absence of oil. It's just a lot of work for <$100 of parts that are wear items anyway.

Keep you chain lubed, once a week, put some lube on, spin the chain a bit, let it sit for a couple of minutes and then wipe it off. You can get very aggressive with wiping excess lube off, it is the spaces between the rollers that the lube is necessary.

So Jobiensis, when am I going to see more insane mountain climbs from you? Your work over the race season inspired my training and now I'm not seeing much on Strava from you.

Where is my continued inspiration?

I'm tired! I just did 11k feet in 75 miles last week!

I peaked for an event in April, and I've been struggling to keep enough intensity to not lose too much form, and keeping rested/recovering for the coming events. My first goal this year was to do the KOM series, which meant two hard climbing centuries (>12k >110miles) three weeks apart, and then a moderate century (~8.5k 105miles) two weeks later. Since doing that isn't that big of a deal, I threw in starting racing at the same time.

I've got the moderate century next week, and I'm thinking of doing 4 crits (2 different events) Memorial day weekend. After that I might take a couple of weeks of substantially less riding to refocus/rest up. I didn't get into Lotoja, so I should be able to Cat up in June (presuming I finish the 4 races), and put together some training to get myself closer to the podium for the remaining races. Also planning to spit out a sub 5 hour century in Fall.

My monthly average for this year is 620 miles/38 hours/~49k feet.

Long story short, probably a little less riding in the coming month, and then a renewed effort to finish off the racing year strong.

Edit: I was supposed to do a 66 mile 4k feet ride today. Half hour on the rollers instead, I am slacking off.

Edit Edit: You should be careful with degreasers on a chain, you can remove the lube in the rollers.

 

[Psychotext]

Did my three hour test on the trainer today. Not happy with my results.

Was really hoping that I'd improved my fitness since the last time I did it (a year ago), but it seems like I've actually taken a step back... and not a small one. I'm sure part of it was the DVT but I've been training hard and I should pretty much be at my peak now.

Sucks. Really demotivated. =/

 

[Jobiensis]

Do you feel stronger than you were a year ago? Are you sure the test results were valid? You don't sound too convinced that the DVT majorly set you back (or am I reading too much in between the lines?). Even if your training was horribly ineffective, I wouldn't expect you to go backwards.

Sorry to hear after all the work you put in. Wish I had something really inspiring or wise to say.

 

[vidcons]

Did you monitor heart rate and cadence?

What was the criteria for gauging your fitness level?

You also just did a 7 hour ride, what has your diet been like since then?

I'd be shocked if you shocked if you slid back at all.

 

[Psychotext]

I feel like I've got more endurance (I can push myself harder), but I don't feel fitter. To match my results from last year I had to average over 15bpm more on average and I could barely get off the bike at the end of it. By comparison I barely broke a sweat last year and could have gone much faster over the three hours. I've still got some weight to lose vs last year, but I'm on a trainer... if anything that could work out as an advantage.

Maybe I should just put it down to an off day. I'll be switching from cycling training to one of the beach body routines in a few weeks anyway so it's not like it'll be on my mind for much longer.

As for the DVT, my calf / hamstring are still painful from time to time which I must admit is fucking me up psychologically. Every twinge is the clot coming back in my mind... which would be horrible because it would mean the end of mountain biking for me (as I'd have to spend the rest of my life on blood thinners). Supposedly it'll take a year or more to fully repair so I guess I've just got to be patient.

Edit - @vidcons: Heart rate, cadence, calculated power (trainerroad). Main criteria was sustained power at a particular heart rate range. Put into its most simple terms, what took an average of 133bpm last year took an average of 149bpm this year. Almost identical average cadence (85 vs 84).

 

[Laekon]

My recommendation: Toss the chain and cassette

If you absolutely want to save it, scrub everything with a brush (hot water w/ some Dawn). Take off the chain and cassette and soak them overnight in a light motor oil, then let them sit on a rag for a day to drain. The rust itself isn't the problem, it is more about if the chain/teeth have been weakened by the corrosion and the complete absence of oil. It's just a lot of work for <$100 of parts that are wear items anyway.

There is no reason to replace the chain and cassette because of a little surface rust. Its the same type of rust that shows up on the disk brakes on your car after it sits for a few days. Brush off what you can, lube the chain, and go ride it.

 

[User 85168]

Hey GAF. I'm looking to buy a bike. I don't have too big of a budget to spend (max around $300), and I want something that will help me get around the city and around the lake ( I live in Chicago).

So I found a couple of used bikes on craigslist, and honestly, I don't know what to look for and ask questions about. Can you guys help me out?

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/3790511821.html

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/3799493317.html

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/3795875959.html

 

[Jobiensis]

There is no reason to replace the chain and cassette because of a little surface rust. Its the same type of rust that shows up on the disk brakes on your car after it sits for a few days. Brush off what you can, lube the chain, and go ride it.

It's like you didn't read my post at all. Disc rotors don't have a tendency to break leaving you 20 miles from civilization. Chains are wear items.

 

[Mobius 1]

Just returned to riding. Put in 19 miles just now and I feel ok about it.

I suppose I just need to keep putting the miles in to get better.


What's a good, small pouch I can install on the bike to keep a multitool and spare tube in?

 

[The_Inquisitor]

Just returned to riding. Put in 19 miles just now and I feel ok about it.

I suppose I just need to keep putting the miles in to get better.


What's a good, small pouch I can install on the bike to keep a multitool and spare tube in?

Personally I like the Timbuk2 ones.

http://www.timbuk2.com/tb2/products/bike-seat-pack

They will go on sale on occasion and/or amazon may have them cheaper.

 

[GamePnoy74]

Just returned to riding. Put in 19 miles just now and I feel ok about it.

I suppose I just need to keep putting the miles in to get better.


What's a good, small pouch I can install on the bike to keep a multitool and spare tube in?

I have the TopPeak Aero Wedge Pack (medium): http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Aero-Wedge-Buckle-Medium/dp/B000FIAU8O

Nowadays though when I'm on my road bike and in my gear I just stuff two tubes and minimal tire change tools (two levers, two CO2 cartridges and mini valve) into a sandwich-sized ziplock bag and fit that into one of my cycling jersey pockets.

 

[Chezzymann]

I hate houston. Its literally impossible to ride a bike anywhere here, there's massive 6 lane roads with high traffic connecting everything and there's usually no sidewalks. Not to mention that almost everything is at least 30 miles away; the only place I can ride my bike is in my neighborhood and at parks. Its hard for me to comprehend being able to casually ride your bike to work without worrying about cars driving at 60 miles an hour down the feter hitting you.

 

[0OoO0]

Anyone have any experience with the Surly Long Haul Trucker? Is this a good bike?

 

[F0NZ]

Anyone have any experience with the Surly Long Haul Trucker? Is this a good bike?

I own a Surly Pacer, use it for commuting and running errands, and absolutely love it.

 

[gregor7777]

There are some people that think anything lower than Ultegra is crap.

I'm sure it is plenty durable, the thumb shifter would be a deal breaker for me.

Pretty sure that's what's on my bike.

http://www.raleighusa.com/archive/2012-road/revenio-2-0-12/

I can't say I have any complaints. Must have an elitist LBS...doesn't help promote cycling very well when the default bike set ups are trash talked.

Specs say Sora. I wouldn't call 2300 a default bike setup, it is usually only on the cheapest setup of the cheapest models. 105 is the best bang for buck for Shimano, just like Force for SRAM.

Thanks guys. Another question if you don't mind:

On an aluminum bike, how harsh with a bike with an alum fork be compared to the same bike with a carbon fork?

Trying to figure out where to best put my money.

 

[Jobiensis]

Thanks guys. Another question if you don't mind:

On an aluminum bike, how harsh with a bike with an alum fork be compared to the same bike with a carbon fork?

Trying to figure out where to best put my money.

Carbon is going to absorb harmonics better. It is all going to come down to what you are willing to spend. I would say if you can get a better comp. group and a carbon fork, it is worth spending a hundred or two more for.

FWIW, I think carbon (and build material overall) is highly overrated in this industry, it has advantages, but not at the lower pricepoints. I'll take my CAAD over a similar spec'd Supersix

Spoiler

EVO would be a different story

. I don't have a problem with harshness, and I ride a decent amount, some of it on horrible roads. I found some of the carbon bikes my friends like feel dead, but I'm certain that this is a combination of the build material and a plethora of other things (fork rake, tires, tire pressure, bike geometry).

Buy what you can afford, if you are on a tight budget, you might be better of spending less on the bike knowing you are going to put out money for clothes, helmet, water bottles, bottle cages, seat bag, spare tubes, CO2, mini-tool, etc. In other words I am no help.

 

[vidcons]

i have opinions on carbon vs alum frames and forks!

but i just got back from 72 mile solo ride and the gods were not kind to me so i can not post them

 

[Mobius 1]

i have opinions on carbon vs alum frames and forks!

but i just got back from 72 mile solo ride and the gods were not kind to me so i can not post them

Count your blessings. I just got back from a 23 mile one, and I'm shaking like bamboo in gale force winds.

Granted I had an empty stomach... but I look forward to one day go past 50 miles.

 

[Psychotext]

Whilst we're talking about failure, I beat my all time record today for lowest average speed on a trail. Admittedly it also had the highest percentage of climb per km, and the downhills were all technical... but still.

 

[gregor7777]

Carbon is going to absorb harmonics better. It is all going to come down to what you are willing to spend. I would say if you can get a better comp. group and a carbon fork, it is worth spending a hundred or two more for.

FWIW, I think carbon (and build material overall) is highly overrated in this industry, it has advantages, but not at the lower pricepoints. I'll take my CAAD over a similar spec'd Supersix

Spoiler

EVO would be a different story

. I don't have a problem with harshness, and I ride a decent amount, some of it on horrible roads. I found some of the carbon bikes my friends like feel dead, but I'm certain that this is a combination of the build material and a plethora of other things (fork rake, tires, tire pressure, bike geometry).

Buy what you can afford, if you are on a tight budget, you might be better of spending less on the bike knowing you are going to put out money for clothes, helmet, water bottles, bottle cages, seat bag, spare tubes, CO2, mini-tool, etc. In other words I am no help.

Thanks. Luckily I have all that other stuff already. I have a nice steel road bike. Doesn't quite fit me unfortunately, so I'm looking to get something my size.

 

[Quote]

Rode my full-suspension for the first time today. Oof, what an amazing bike. Between the Fizik Tundra 2 saddle and FS, I had no soreness. The bike carved up through flowing sections of single track and was super responsive when I wanted it to be. I did fall twice, first because it was my first time using Eggbeaters over SPD, and my SPDs clipped out at the easiest setting, while these are a little harder, so I toppled over in a technical section and got my first scratch on the frame . Second time I endo'd on some step downs. Not 100% why, but a combo of not leaning back enough and maybe because the head angle is 71.5, which is less forgiving.

I'm all kinds of scuffed up from the two falls but I'm heading out again tomorrow!

 

[Jobiensis]

I didn't ride at all, ate like a pig all day, and I'm enjoying a nice Stone AB right now.

The only real bike thing I did was to put on some new tires. I did spend a couple hours browsing ebay and classifieds for hollowgrams, probably burned some calories doing that.

 

[vidcons]

Opinions on carbon and aluminum:

The comfort cost between a carbon and aluminum fork is... just get a carbon fork. I don't think there are any name brand builds that are not using carbon forks as standard now. The cost is little and the savings in hand, elbow, shoulder pain is huge.

A lot of the lower end carbon frames are not very stiff and you'll lose some watts in your pedal stroke (not very important unless you're racing Cat 3, 2, 1, Pro). Having ridden an online brand carbon frame for a good amount of time, it's not worth the savings. If you're going carbon, do it right and go Felt. Everything I've heard about their frames has been really good.

Aluminum frames are pretty dope, CAAD10 being the perfect example. Really stiff BB and everyone knows it, that's why you can buy it equipped with Tektra all the way to Dura Ace (Di2, probably but I don't feel like googling my correctness).

Carbon pros:
-aero
-super fucking aero
-light
-comfortable
-look awesome

Aluminum pros:
-cheap
-stiff
-look vintage (if you're "baws")

If you're looking at a frame to buy and you're not sure, ride them around. Get off at some point and put some pressure on the pedal from the side and downward. That flex is what people are talking about when they're looking for stiffness. The less flex, the more power that'll go through your peddle stroke and into your forward momentum.

but if you're just looking to tool around and not race or get serious about strava segments then they're all moot. go for something that you think feels good to be on for awhile and doesn't empty your wallet. a lot of comfort is going to come from saddle swapping and good clothes.

caad10caad10caad10caad10caad10caad10caad10caad10

 

[Socreges]

What are your guys' opinions on bike locks? Is it worth buying a heavy, expensive lock that cant be cut? We live in a decent area and won't be leaving our bikes locked up at night where they are more likely to be stolen. Anyone with cutters would have to cut the lock in a public place in the light of day. That said, it's nice to not have to be paranoid.

Is there a type of lock that's lighter but can't be cut?

On that note, what's a good site that sells accessories for cheap? Looking to outfit the lady's bike with reflectors, a light and a rack. Preferably a site that ships to Canada...

Thanks, guys.

 

[jamesinclair]

What are your guys' opinions on bike locks? Is it worth buying a heavy, expensive lock that cant be cut? We live in a decent area and won't be leaving our bikes locked up at night where they are more likely to be stolen. Anyone with cutters would have to cut the lock in a public place in the light of day. That said, it's nice to not have to be paranoid.

Is there a type of lock that's lighter but can't be cut?

On that note, what's a good site that sells accessories for cheap? Looking to outfit the lady's bike with reflectors, a light and a rack. Preferably a site that ships to Canada...

Thanks, guys.

GET A U LOCK

Cable locks can be cut faster than you can open it with a key. Doesnt matter how well lit and populated the area is, a pro can make it look like hes just unlocking his bike.

 

[Socreges]

I hate houston. Its literally impossible to ride a bike anywhere here, there's massive 6 lane roads with high traffic connecting everything and there's usually no sidewalks. Not to mention that almost everything is at least 30 miles away; the only place I can ride my bike is in my neighborhood and at parks. Its hard for me to comprehend being able to casually ride your bike to work without worrying about cars driving at 60 miles an hour down the feter hitting you.

That's brutal, man. This is one of the aspects of Victoria (BC) that I'm really growing to appreciate, which has also made me much more interested in bikes*. There are bike lanes on most major streets, the buses have bike racks, and the entire city and surrounding cities are connected by a massive (mostly flat) bike trail. 'Bike to Work Week' is also coming up - always remarkable seeing so many bikes.

*this thread is awesome for educating, though some of you use so much niche terminology and acronyms that I literally can't understand some posts

 

[Socreges]

GET A U LOCK

Cable locks can be cut faster than you can open it with a key. Doesnt matter how well lit and populated the area is, a pro can make it look like hes just unlocking his bike.

This one good enough?

I guess I've been lucky for the last two years (since I bought my mountain bike, which isn't very good but thieves often don't care). I've got a cable lock like this one and the fact that it hasn't been stolen (despite being left in a parking lot for five days once) has probably given me a false sense of security.

 

[Psychotext]

This one good enough?

http://www.lfgss.com/thread17938.html

Pretty much the bible on this sort of thing.

 

[Socreges]

http://www.lfgss.com/thread17938.html

Pretty much the bible on this sort of thing.

I was trying to explain to someone the other day how overwhelming it is to be a bicycle consumer after coming in while knowing next to nothing. There are a million things to know and each thing has a million types and each type has a million varieties. At least that's how it seems.

Thanks. I'll scrutinize that page as best I can, though I'm not sure which might be exclusive to Britain.

 

[Piggus]

I posted this the 2 Wheel thread but I guess it sort of belongs here too. >_<

Motorized bike I've been building over the past week. Just finally finished it and it rides pretty nicely! Though I'm going to replace the chain ring with a smaller one that's easier to pedal from standstill. All the added weight makes getting up to the necessary speed to start the motor really hard on any kind of incline.

 

[ameratsu]

^ Painted braking surfaces but with fenders, as if you intend to ride it in the rain? That looks incredibly unsafe.

 

[Piggus]

^ Painted braking surfaces but with fenders, as if you intend to ride it in the rain? That looks incredibly unsafe.

I don't plan on it lol. But yeah, I'm going to put a disk on the front regardless. The fender is mostly for looks.

 

[hillsighed]

Finally got around to cleaning up the girlfriend and I's bikes.

(hers is the white Leader, mine is the Bianchi.)

 

[killertofu]

Finally got around to cleaning up the girlfriend and I's bikes.

(hers is the white Leader, mine is the Bianchi.)

Those are beauts.

Did you paint them?

 

[Psychotext]

This guy (Chris Akrigg) is sickeningly good: http://singletrackworld.com/2013/05/fgf-extra-chris-akrigg-five

Unrelated, have had calf pain for a couple of days and am now totally freaking out about another DVT... stupid brain. =/

 

[Christoff Yurievich]

My first big group ride is this weekend and I can't get my elbows to stop hurting. I've tried moving my seat and handlebars around but they still hurt. The advice I've found online says to just stop riding for a few days to have it go away but I'd like to have it not bother me at all in the future, not just for the moment. Any advice? Thanks!

 

[Jobiensis]

My first big group ride is this weekend and I can't get my elbows to stop hurting. I've tried moving my seat and handlebars around but they still hurt. The advice I've found online says to just stop riding for a few days to have it go away but I'd like to have it not bother me at all in the future, not just for the moment. Any advice? Thanks!

Bike fit and/or locked elbows. If your seat is in the right position, you don't want to move it based on anything in your upper body, adjust stem length/handlebar height/angle for upper body.

 

[muu]

What are your guys' opinions on bike locks? Is it worth buying a heavy, expensive lock that cant be cut? We live in a decent area and won't be leaving our bikes locked up at night where they are more likely to be stolen. Anyone with cutters would have to cut the lock in a public place in the light of day. That said, it's nice to not have to be paranoid.

Is there a type of lock that's lighter but can't be cut?

On that note, what's a good site that sells accessories for cheap? Looking to outfit the lady's bike with reflectors, a light and a rack. Preferably a site that ships to Canada...

Thanks, guys.

What are you using it for? I carry the Kryptonite "NY lock" on my heavy bike since 4lbs is negligible weight when I'm already on 40lbs of bike (plus any panniers and its contents), but with my fast bike usually the most I carry is a cheap self-locking wire lock that could be snapped easily. The difference is that the heavy one is a workhorse for commutes/shopping, and the light bike is for joyriding and riding long and far. The heavy bike will get me to grocery stores, somewhere in the town, in a fairly speedy fashion; I can ride the fast bike for miles on end. The heavy bike can be left outside, properly locked and I'm fairly confident it won't be stolen; the fast bike stays within my sight in the city, and once you get to rural USA no one is going to touch your bike.

 

[SmokyDave]

This guy (Chris Akrigg) is sickeningly good: http://singletrackworld.com/2013/05/fgf-extra-chris-akrigg-five

Unrelated, have had calf pain for a couple of days and am now totally freaking out about another DVT... stupid brain. =/

Hard to believe he fell off a 40ft cliff and smashed himself to bits. Such a talented rider, up there with Danny MacAskill in the 'ridiculously cool video' stakes.

 

[Psychotext]

Based on some of the stuff in that vid I can fully believe he'd fall off a cliff and smash himself to bits.

 

[MThanded]

Stem broke when I was pumping. Walked to the bike shop. Luckily local bike shop was in here working after hours.

 

[Socreges]

This guy (Chris Akrigg) is sickeningly good: http://singletrackworld.com/2013/05/fgf-extra-chris-akrigg-five

Wow

wow

Any more videos of that quality (talent, editing, music, everything) floating around?

 

[Chip N Chance]

A similar video, which im sure you guys have seen, is pretty damn impressive as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZmJtYaUTa0

 

[Socreges]

A similar video, which im sure you guys have seen, is pretty damn impressive as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZmJtYaUTa0

Never seen it before. Never seen any of this stuff before. Pretty cool picking up a new hobby like this. Lots to discover.

But also lots to learn (and purchase). :/

Anyone know which cities the two videos were made in?

 

[SmokyDave]

Wow

wow

Any more videos of that quality (talent, editing, music, everything) floating around?

Look on YouTube for Danny MacAskill. In particular 'Industrial Revolutions' and 'Long Way Home'.

All the videos so far are British men. *sniff*.

 

[gregor7777]

This guy (Chris Akrigg) is sickeningly good: http://singletrackworld.com/2013/05/fgf-extra-chris-akrigg-five

Unrelated, have had calf pain for a couple of days and am now totally freaking out about another DVT... stupid brain. =/

Fuck you at about 4:30. I have a difficult time watching that; it scares me watching him do it LOL.

 

[Socreges]

Thanks. I'll put those on the queue.

What's a good website for tune-up tutorials? If it includes the basics, even better.

 

[davidnic]

Thanks. I'll put those on the queue.

What's a good website for tune-up tutorials? If it includes the basics, even better.

Check out this video this shows how check your Chain Wear

 

[evilpigking]

Started biking again after ortho said to quit running or I'd wreck my knee. Been trying to do a mix of road and trail riding but just using my 10ish year old specialized bike (no idea what model). It kinda works, had to bend the derailleur a little so it wouldn't slip on low gears and can't use the very lowest gear because the chain will fly off the cartridge.

Been trying to ride out from my house to places so it has been limiting since I don't (yet) want to drive to a trailhead then bike.

So far my best rides have been ~30 miles mostly up Page Mill road to Skyline Blvd (SF Bay Peninsula) which I think is around 2k elevation in ~10 miles.

I'd like to do some more offroad stuff but I find my rear tire slides around a lot on gravel/dirt downhills even when only very lightly feathering the brakes.

Is this common occurrence for trail riding or is there usually a common cause like too much tire pressure or maybe wheel wobbles? It doesn't rub when I lift the bike and spin it though.