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Bicycle age

Ok, I'm looking to buy a bike. No idea about brands, price range I should be looking for, etc.
Here is what I will be doing with it:

1) 20-30 mile rides? Whether on pavement in the city or taking a path.
2) Something that will last.
3) I won't be doing any mountain biking with it BUT I'd prefer it to be able to handle
riding on dirt if need be.
4) I'm looking to spend $500-750?
5) I have a few shops here and REI.

Any recommendations?
 

Hunter S.

Member
I feel like some asshole drivers try to hit us on purpose sometimes.

I have a bad habit of flipping them off when they honk as many people do not want to share the road. Unfortunately, sometimes it might just be to warn me they are passing, but many times people are just being assholes. I just did this minutes ago, and the teenagers followed me for a stare down. Oh well, still a good first ride of the day.
 

Jobiensis

Member
4 races done this weekend, all 10 Cat 5s complete. Once USAC updates I'll put in my upgrade request. Last race was a great experience, no squirrels, just burned way too many matches before the last lap so my finish sucked. Now I just need to decide which team to join.

You enjoy that list far too much. It's like you made it.

It's a well done list, as long as you realize most of it is tongue in cheek. If you can't laugh at yourself.

Leg feeling a lot better, going to try and get back to training next week.

Good Luck
 
Hey bike GAf dudes, which bike bike do you think I should buy (both off Craigslist)-

a Moongoose XR200 for $50 (retails new for $200)

or

a GT something or other mountain bike, says it's 4 years old, good condition for $175 (newer GT's retails for about $400 minimum)

Using it for basic recreation.
 

Hunter S.

Member
Hey bike GAf dudes, which bike bike do you think I should buy (both off Craigslist)-

a Moongoose XR200 for $50 (retails new for $200)

or

a GT something or other mountain bike, says it's 4 years old, good condition for $175 (newer GT's retails for about $400 minimum)

Using it for basic recreation.


If you plan to ride less then once a month I say get the Mongoose if you plan mostly short road biking. Because it is cheaper. It should be a lot heavier though as Walmart bikes are made of heavier materials. The GT is probably the much better bike, and if you actually can mountain bike, and do where you live, it should be your choice. Mountain biking is really hard on inclines, and the probable extra weight of the Mongoose will make it a lot harder, and make it less likely you will enjoy it for basic recreation.
 
I have a really mint condition GT Avalanche 1.0 which is 7 years old and I still use. Might be worth finding out what model it is.



If you plan to ride less then once a month I say get the Mongoose if you plan mostly short road biking. Because it is cheaper. It should be a lot heavier though as Walmart bikes are made of heavier materials. The GT is probably the much better bike, and if you actually can mountain bike, and do where you live, it should be your choice. Mountain biking is really hard on inclines, and the probable extra weight of the Mongoose will make it a lot harder, and make it less likely you will enjoy it for basic recreation.

Thanks for the replies, I ended up going with the GT, it's an Avalanche 3.0 btw, the other bike was already sold. I still can't figure out what year it though, here's a picture if anyone wants to take a guess.

wR2CfTE.jpg

I'm a little disappointed with the condition to be honest. When I checked it out at his place and took it for a ride it seemed all good, but when I got home I realized it wasn't shifting too good and then noticed that the cogs are in pretty rough shape (admittedly I was a little distracted by his Asian girlfriend. :p). I think I'm going to take it to a bike shop to have it looked at, see what needs replacing.

You can see some broken cogs on the largest wheel on the bottom right.
 

SmokyDave

Member
I've had an Avalanche or two in my time. Lovely bikes.

Changed a few bits on the Spesh and took her out for a shakedown. Waiting for a 6mm hose to fit the rear brake so they're mismatched at the moment!

 

lolmark

Member
I just got my first road bike a couple weeks after riding single speeds, so I have a newbie question. My shifters started to slip a bit. Is there any risk to readjusting the shifter up a bit to a comfortable position before tightening?
 

Quote

Member
I just got my first road bike a couple weeks after riding single speeds, so I have a newbie question. My shifters started to slip a bit. Is there any risk to readjusting the shifter up a bit to a comfortable position before tightening?
Can you elaborate a little bit? What do you mean by slipping? I assume its not drop bars?
 

Jobiensis

Member
Lol, USAC's ranking is hosed for me. One of the crits combined results from all the masters races, so it looks like I beat out a bunch of Cat2's. Overall rank in Crit is 119 out of 3991. Don't think mediocre performance in Cat5 warrants being in the top 3% of all racers.


I just got my first road bike a couple weeks after riding single speeds, so I have a newbie question. My shifters started to slip a bit. Is there any risk to readjusting the shifter up a bit to a comfortable position before tightening?

No, loosen them and adjust them to where it is comfortable for you. Depending on how far you move it, you may have to re-tape the bar.
 

Lamel

Banned
Hey GAF,

I was looking into getting a new bicycle since I am going to a new college this fall.

I usually have gotten mountain bikes, but it has been a while and have forgotten most of the ins and outs of what to look for in bikes.

The campus is large, can be steeply hilly in some areas, and flat in others. It is in upstate NY and has nice parks and biking paths through the forests as well, which I would be interested in riding through.

So the main problem is, I don't even know where to start. Should I get a light street bike due to the hillyness (although I really don't like bending over too much when I ride)? Or stick to mountain bike style, which will allow me to access rough terrain too (I prefer the mountain bike design). Or maybe a combination light mountain bike...if that even exists?

My budget is around $200.

I have been looking at this bike as a starting point, since I prefer the design and it seems to be good for college commuting...

http://forgebikes.com/urban-bike-mstreet.php

I would really appreciate your advice.
 

Jobiensis

Member
That sort of bike should be fine for you. Gearing is more important than weight (within reason), and 24/34 should give you a bunch of leverage even on the steepest hills. You shouldn't have any problems with tires like those on dirt trails. IMO, that type of bike is a much better option for your needs than a road or mountain bike.
 

Lamel

Banned
That sort of bike should be fine for you. Gearing is more important than weight (within reason), and 24/34 should give you a bunch of leverage even on the steepest hills. You shouldn't have any problems with tires like those on dirt trails. IMO, that type of bike is a much better option for your needs than a road or mountain bike.

Thanks for the response.

I found another hybrid bike on amazon, much cheaper, but can't speak much for the quality. Obviously I don't want to spend too much since if it gets stolen I will be pretty pissed.

http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Hybrid-Commuter-Shimano-Bicycle/dp/B00CLV6EYC/ref=sr_1_1?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1370211642&sr=1-1&keywords=hybrid+bike+shimano
 

Quote

Member
Today was South Florida's Fakawi 50. A 50 mile ride through levees. I took off work and everything for it but we've been getting blasted with rain for the past week so I opted not to go. Though, rain storms is supposed to be what this ride is known for.

I personally regret not going, it would have been a blast and a great accomplishment. But there was something about dragging my not-even-a-month-old bike through this slop. Next year she will have to deal with it though.
 

ameratsu

Member

davidnic

Member
I did my first club race since Road Nationals on Sunday it was 26km handicap with a hill top finish it was supposed to be 51 km but oh well, I was in the chopping group (2nd last group) and came 2nd. So happy today no hamstring pain today or yesterday. Recovery ride today I think. Going to try out my new Kask Bambino TT Helmet.
 

bkw

Member
Anyone know how to deal with a squeaky mechanic disc brake? I tried cleaning the rotor and pads somewhat and it helped a bit, but it still squeals pretty loudly when I apply firm pressure to the brake. Taking a peek at the pads, it looks like I have plenty left, and I still do get stopping power.

Reading on the web that I could try sanding the pad and rotor a bit. I've never taken the brake assembly apart so I'm a bit hesitant, but the squeal gets pretty annoying.
 
I'm commuting more and more on my road bike and the back pack is getting heavy. I don't see a good way to put a rack on my bike, maybe someone else does?

5247910329_e95eeb5ce3.jpg

(not my personal bike, but that is my bike)
 

S. L.

Member
I'm commuting more and more on my road bike and the back pack is getting heavy. I don't see a good way to put a rack on my bike, maybe someone else does?

5247910329_e95eeb5ce3.jpg

(not my personal bike, but that is my bike)

you can add a rack with some adapters... dunno what they are called in english, or one of those (with limited weight capability - 10~15kg) that only attach to the seatpost (not for carbon seatposts!)
 

ameratsu

Member
I'm commuting more and more on my road bike and the back pack is getting heavy. I don't see a good way to put a rack on my bike, maybe someone else does?

5247910329_e95eeb5ce3.jpg

(not my personal bike, but that is my bike)

Do you have eyelets near your rear dropouts? If so a standard bike rack should work. Something like this http://www.mec.ca/product/5022-461/filzer-pr-4-rear-pannier-rack/?f=10&q=bike+rack

As I understand it, even without eyelets, you can use p-clips. Though I have never done this
 
Been using my road bike a lot lately but trying to get back into using my steel single-speed cyclocross bike for commuting to work.


I put new bar tape and switched out the SPD pedals for some DH platforms to make it more of a casual ride...I think I went a little overboard on them but dang they're nice though =P
 

Requiem

Member
So I am a pretty big guy (6' 3" about 330 lbs) and I'm looking start biking as running is getting boring.

I think/know I need a road bike but not sure what size it needs to be or what brands work well. I am not trying to spend more than $200 so I don't mind going used; I just need some starting advice and I'll be set.

Any help would be great...
 

JHall

Member
BikeGAF I recently just got a new job and it's only 4 miles from my house. I thinking about getting a bike to commute to and from. My route isn't very hilly and I'm looking to not spend over $500.

Any suggestions? Thanks!
 
$559 seems high. The bike is decent, but I'd wait until a better sale if you can. A co-worker of mine almost bought that Trek, and our shop was letting it go for 30% off since they were clearing out previous model year bikes.
 
Anyone know how to deal with a squeaky mechanic disc brake? I tried cleaning the rotor and pads somewhat and it helped a bit, but it still squeals pretty loudly when I apply firm pressure to the brake. Taking a peek at the pads, it looks like I have plenty left, and I still do get stopping power.

Reading on the web that I could try sanding the pad and rotor a bit. I've never taken the brake assembly apart so I'm a bit hesitant, but the squeal gets pretty annoying.

I have Avid BB7's and they squeak if the rotor is not centered in the caliper. Avid's have pad adjusters on each side so it is easy. See if yours has the same. Also, check to see if the rotor is warped a bit. You can gently bend it back by hand. Your caliper may also need adjustment, meaning if the pads ate not squarely hitting the rotor, you'll get squeal as well.
 

Antagon

Member
BikeGAF I recently just got a new job and it's only 4 miles from my house. I thinking about getting a bike to commute to and from. My route isn't very hilly and I'm looking to not spend over $500.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

Get some sort of roadster with closed chainguard. If you sit upright and only do small distances you can easily do it in your normal clothes and don't have to change at work. The closed chainguard makes sure that you don't get grease on you or your clothes get stuck on the chain.

Not sure what brands to recommend in the us though. Those kind of bikes are a dime in dozen here in the Netherlands, but in the US you pay rather large premiums on the Dutch brands. You could probably find some old beaters online, those should serve you well enough as long as they get some maintenance.
 

Jobiensis

Member
Bike Brands

The Big Three
Giant
Trek
Specialized

Some of the others I know I am forgetting tons of brands
Fuji
Cannondale
Cervelo
BH
Scott
Felt

Be wary of (they aren't all bad, but these brands have crappy box store models )
Diamondback
Schwinn

So I am a pretty big guy (6' 3" about 330 lbs) and I'm looking start biking as running is getting boring.

I think/know I need a road bike but not sure what size it needs to be or what brands work well. I am not trying to spend more than $200 so I don't mind going used; I just need some starting advice and I'll be set.

Any help would be great...

It is going to be very difficult to find a decent used road bike for $200. You would probably fit a large or maybe an extra large, but it really depends on the specific bike geometry and your build. I'm 6'1 with long legs (36" inseam) and arms, short torso. I can fit on a 60 or even a 62, but I much prefer a 58.

I did my first club race since Road Nationals on Sunday it was 26km handicap with a hill top finish it was supposed to be 51 km but oh well, I was in the chopping group (2nd last group) and came 2nd. So happy today no hamstring pain today or yesterday. Recovery ride today I think. Going to try out my new Kask Bambino TT Helmet.

Good to hear some people are healing up, it seemed everyone was nursing some sort of injury.

BikeGAF I recently just got a new job and it's only 4 miles from my house. I thinking about getting a bike to commute to and from. My route isn't very hilly and I'm looking to not spend over $500.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

No one? Although I guess this bike is probably too entry-level for an enthusiast thread!

Sorry, it gets a little tiring to repeat the same thing.

For a new bike, if you

1) Stick to the known quality brands
2) Go to a bike shop

You will do fine,

Expect prices to start at

Hybrid/Urban/Fitness - ~$500
Road - ~$1000
Mountain - ??

Generally, you get what you pay for. The best value is usually one or two levels up from the bottom.
 

Requiem

Member
Bike Brands

The Big Three
Giant
Trek
Specialized

Some of the others I know I am forgetting tons of brands
Fuji
Cannondale
Cervelo
BH
Scott
Felt

Be wary of (they aren't all bad, but these brands have crappy box store models )
Diamondback
Schwinn



It is going to be very difficult to find a decent used road bike for $200. You would probably fit a large or maybe an extra large, but it really depends on the specific bike geometry and your build. I'm 6'1 with long legs (36" inseam) and arms, short torso. I can fit on a 60 or even a 62, but I much prefer a 58.


Thanks for this! After doing more research I think a hybrid would be better suited for my needs (being in NYC)

Any particular reason why Schwinn isn't a good brand?
 

brentech

Member
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/dual_sport/ds_series/8_2_ds/

Any opinions on the Trek Dual Sport 8.2 as a first bike? Mostly Greenways, some dirt and light gravel trails. Local bike shop has it for 559 USD which seems high.

My wife has a similar style bike for same style purposes. Her's doesn't have front suspension, but carbon forks instead. Cost 650 I think.
It's a Giant Escape W(omens).

I'm sure the bike is fine for your uses, though I don't have any experience with the bike itself.

Thanks for this! After doing more research I think a hybrid would be better suited for my needs (being in NYC)

Any particular reason why Schwinn isn't a good brand?

Any of the bikes they offer in big box retailers are all super low quality parts. They don't even have those bikes listed on their website, if that tells you anything.
The bikes they do offer on the website and I assume in some bike shops somewhere....still don't have great quality components, but the price is still just as high as quality brands like Giant, Trek, Specialized, and Raleigh.
Just not worth the price of admission.
 

brentech

Member
Should be a good bike for what you want to do. When buying used just make sure you look everything over really well and make sure everything is working as it should.
 

Jobiensis

Member
Any particular reason why Schwinn isn't a good brand?

Scwinn and Diamondback make some very low quality questionable bikes. I'm sure all of them aren't crap, but I know some of them are. If you buy one of those you need to research to make sure it isn't crap.
 

ch0mp

Member
Been using my road bike a lot lately but trying to get back into using my steel single-speed cyclocross bike for commuting to work.



I put new bar tape and switched out the SPD pedals for some DH platforms to make it more of a casual ride...I think I went a little overboard on them but dang they're nice though =P
This bike looks awesome. I'm moving to an inner city place soon and would love something like this. How much am I looking at?
 
This bike looks awesome. I'm moving to an inner city place soon and would love something like this. How much am I looking at?
The base Raleigh Furley isn't the cheapest bike out there, starting at around $800.
http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/steel-road/cyclocross/furley-13/

A geared version, the Roper, is around $1500.
http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/steel-road/cyclocross/roper-13/

And to complete the Three's Company trifecta there's also the Tripper with a straight bar and three-speed internal hub, starting around $900.
http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/steel-road/cyclocross/tripper-13/

Raleigh needs to make a Larry configuration, yo.
 
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