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GAF Photography Q3 2015

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A

am_dragon

Member
Lucky Forward said:
am-dragon, nice airshow photos! I'll be heading to an airshow next Saturday at Andrews AFB near DC where the Thunderbirds will be performing.
Click to expand...

Pro Tip: Watch videos from recent Thunderbird shows so you know their routine and are ready for the shots.

I live close to the airport, and I was off work so I was taking pictures of the aircraft arriving on Thursday, I watched the practice on Thursday and Friday. While I was out there I bumped into a few other photographers. A couple of them were huge military aircraft buffs, and told me he had been watching YouTube videos, and apparently there are forums out there where people will draw the routine out on a map as well.

I looked up that show, I wish we would have had an F-35 display. The F-22 team will be at your show as well. Try to find the booth, I was able to get autographs from the pilots, and maintenance crew.

Either way, have fun.
 
peetfeet

peetfeet

Member
ChronotriggerJM said:
Greetings Photography GAF, I had posted not too long ago about picking up a camera. Is the Sony A6000 still a good pick or is there some better cost to performance units out there that I should know about?

I really like Sony (for reasons I really don't understand), so it would be neat to get some more updated insight :p
Click to expand...

I bought one about a month ago, my first 'proper' camera and I love it. I'm still learning but getting some nice shots from it.

Edit: Added some shots using it. Any feedback welcome as i am a complete beginner.


DSC02336 by P Marsden, on Flickr. Using Sony 50mm F1.8 Lens


DSC01333 by P Marsden, on Flickr. Using Sony 50mm F1.8 Lens


DSC01289 by P Marsden, on Flickr. Using Sony 50mm F1.8 Lens


DSC00511-2 by P Marsden, on Flickr. Using Standard Kit Lens


DSC00195 by P Marsden, on Flickr. Using Standard Kit Lens
 
T

thespot84

Member
thinking about a new camera, currently have an olympus e520 4/3s, 10MP. Will I notice a big difference moving up to an ASP-C or full frame? (i'm sure the extra resolution will be nice either way)
 
L

Lucky Forward

Member
I played around with my tungsten light set on a rainy Saturday and came up with these:

IMG_2362 by Lucky Forward, on Flickr

IMG_2426 by Lucky Forward, on Flickr

am_dragon said:
Pro Tip: Watch videos from recent Thunderbird shows so you know their routine and are ready for the shots.
Click to expand...

Good idea! I've seen the T-birds before, but it's been a few years and I imagine they're always changing their routine. I found some 2015 performances on youtube so that should help me prepare.
 
S

Sami+

Member
Recommendations on favorite presets/packs for Lightroom? I mostly use VSCO but I'm down to try something new.
 
MEsoJD

MEsoJD

Banned
Two images I recently took.

Percieve+JDS.jpg


Castle+Green+Sig.jpg
 
B

brentech

Member
First two I took this morning. The last I took sometime in the last week. All at my county parks.


A little, most likely, Downy Woodpecker I followed around for a bit today.


And a Monarch Butterfly.


Believe this one is a Green Heron.
 
K

Koriandrr

Member
hey guys!

I'm looking for some help with lighting equipment.
I'm getting into cosplay photography, but all of the cosplayers seem to only take photoshoot requests at events. I'm a complete noob when it comes to actual real size lighting (I've mostly done figure photography, so I have a mini studio) and portable equipment at an event will be a first.

I want to get something to help me work outdoors, but at the same time I don't want to depend on just a reflector as I'm in the UK and sun at this time of the year is almost unheard of.

What would you suggest I get? I am in the ~£50-80 budget, I can see amazon has some decent looking choices.

I've seen a lot of people at cons going around with an umbrella flash, but wouldn't that be too strong? I don't want the images to look super flat or overexposed, I prefer softer lights myself. On my mini studio I'd use 2 softboxes, but on an actual human I have a feeling that'll make it flat again. So maybe a single softbox with a mix of reflector if needed?

I'll also be using mainly a 25mm/f1.8 if that's a factor.
 
S

Saya

Member
Guys, does anyone have a Nikon FM10? I'm tempted to buy one secondhand as a means to learn analog film cameras, but reading all kinds of mixed reviews and impressions online.

I can get one for $50 including the 35-70 kit lens.
 
M

marimorimo

Member
Koriandrr said:
hey guys!

I'm looking for some help with lighting equipment.
I'm getting into cosplay photography, but all of the cosplayers seem to only take photoshoot requests at events. I'm a complete noob when it comes to actual real size lighting (I've mostly done figure photography, so I have a mini studio) and portable equipment at an event will be a first.

I want to get something to help me work outdoors, but at the same time I don't want to depend on just a reflector as I'm in the UK and sun at this time of the year is almost unheard of.

What would you suggest I get? I am in the ~£50-80 budget, I can see amazon has some decent looking choices.

I've seen a lot of people at cons going around with an umbrella flash, but wouldn't that be too strong? I don't want the images to look super flat or overexposed, I prefer softer lights myself. On my mini studio I'd use 2 softboxes, but on an actual human I have a feeling that'll make it flat again. So maybe a single softbox with a mix of reflector if needed?

I'll also be using mainly a 25mm/f1.8 if that's a factor.
Click to expand...

I'm a n00b myself so take my advice with a grain of salt, but I love flash photography for portraiture and have been researching a lot into portable lighting equipment.

Umbrellas are the least fussiest and most portable, which is probably why you see a lot of them at cons. Softboxes, depending on the type, can be quite unwieldy and many are only suitable for the studio.

If you use a shoot-through umbrella (not the reflective one), I don't see how you have to worry about it being over-exposed? If your photo happens to be overexposed, it's just a matter of increasing or decreasing your exposure to suit your image. On my Canon mirrorless camera, it's a simple matter of turning a dial.

How many speedlights do you plan to use? Will you have an assistant to hold the speedlight or reflectors? If not, do you have a light stand?
 
K

Koriandrr

Member
marimorimo said:
I'm a n00b myself so take my advice with a grain of salt, but I love flash photography for portraiture and have been researching a lot into portable lighting equipment.

Umbrellas are the least fussiest and most portable, which is probably why you see a lot of them at cons. Softboxes, depending on the type, can be quite unwieldy and many are only suitable for the studio.

If you use a shoot-through umbrella (not the reflective one), I don't see how you have to worry about it being over-exposed? If your photo happens to be overexposed, it's just a matter of increasing or decreasing your exposure to suit your image. On my Canon mirrorless camera, it's a simple matter of turning a dial.

How many speedlights do you plan to use? Will you have an assistant to hold the speedlight or reflectors? If not, do you have a light stand?
Click to expand...

I've been doing some reading myself. I think I'll go for a single speedlight with a hexagonal softbox. According to reviews, the cheap 3rd party speedlights aren't half bad and do the job (yongnuo or neewer), so I'll go for cheaper option to begin with.... hopefully I won't regret it lol

I will definitely need to be flexible, but I have my partner with me at the event to help me hold stuff! He'll probably hate me for it, but ohwell. I'll get a tripod for the softbox, so that won't need anyone holding it, but I'll also carry a reflector, just in case it makes a nice difference. Don't know until you try, I suppose.

Any speedlight recommendations would be highly appreciated :D
 
M

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Koriandrr said:
I've been doing some reading myself. I think I'll go for a single speedlight with a hexagonal softbox. According to reviews, the cheap 3rd party speedlights aren't half bad and do the job (yongnuo or neewer), so I'll go for cheaper option to begin with.... hopefully I won't regret it lol

I will definitely need to be flexible, but I have my partner with me at the event to help me hold stuff! He'll probably hate me for it, but ohwell. I'll get a tripod for the softbox, so that won't need anyone holding it, but I'll also carry a reflector, just in case it makes a nice difference. Don't know until you try, I suppose.

Any speedlight recommendations would be highly appreciated :D
Click to expand...

Yongnuo speed lite yn560-II (don't know if there is a more recent model). Cheap but very cheerful, also goes well with simple yongnuo wireless triggers
 
M

marimorimo

Member
Koriandrr said:
I've been doing some reading myself. I think I'll go for a single speedlight with a hexagonal softbox. According to reviews, the cheap 3rd party speedlights aren't half bad and do the job (yongnuo or neewer), so I'll go for cheaper option to begin with.... hopefully I won't regret it lol

I will definitely need to be flexible, but I have my partner with me at the event to help me hold stuff! He'll probably hate me for it, but ohwell. I'll get a tripod for the softbox, so that won't need anyone holding it, but I'll also carry a reflector, just in case it makes a nice difference. Don't know until you try, I suppose.

Any speedlight recommendations would be highly appreciated :D
Click to expand...

Yeah, those hexagon/octagon softboxes look pretty nice - I've been wanting one myself, only I haven't found one here where I live that suits my requirements and budget. However, I'm having serious doubts about being able to buy everything you said for 60-80 GBP. Speedlight + Softbox + Mount for Softbox + Light Stand (you can use a tripod as well but a decent light stand costs much less than a decent tripod and takes much less space) would run at least a couple hundred, I would think.

I currently have only one mini-flash (Nissin i40) but I'm planning to add a cheap Chinese flash soon. I'm thinking Neewer, since I read reviews of a certain Yongnuo model having a flaw wherein the flash is stuck firing only at full power.
 
N

NealMcCauley

Member
First time posting in these threads and I hope I did everything correct. Usually I get better night shots at the beach but it was overcast all last week.

 
N

Number45

Member
mrklaw said:
Yongnuo speed lite yn560-II (don't know if there is a more recent model). Cheap but very cheerful, also goes well with simple yongnuo wireless triggers
Click to expand...
I have the 568, which I think is basically the same but supports TTL. No complaints here at all, although I haven't done a huge amount of flash work.
 
T

thespot84

Member
NealMcCauley said:
First time posting in these threads and I hope I did everything correct. Usually I get better night shots at the beach but it was overcast all last week.

Click to expand...

No one ever does everything right ;)

Do you use anything for post processing? (lightroom, photoshop)

It looks like the pic was shot in jpg, rather than RAW. If your going to do any post processing raw gives you a lot more flexibility.

You might be able to up the ISO a little bit so you can get more light to the sensor without super long star trails. I'd play around with 800, 1600, 2400, until it gets too noisy to be worth it.

Do you have any shorter lenses?
 
D

Damaged

Member
Saya said:
Guys, does anyone have a Nikon FM10? I'm tempted to buy one secondhand as a means to learn analog film cameras, but reading all kinds of mixed reviews and impressions online.

I can get one for $50 including the 35-70 kit lens.
Click to expand...

Its a way of starting in film photography for sure but personally I would look for an all manual body, something like an original FM or FE. I've had my FE for nearly 16 years now and its never missed a beat
 
N

NealMcCauley

Member
thespot84 said:
No one ever does everything right ;)

Do you use anything for post processing? (lightroom, photoshop)

It looks like the pic was shot in jpg, rather than RAW. If your going to do any post processing raw gives you a lot more flexibility.

You might be able to up the ISO a little bit so you can get more light to the sensor without super long star trails. I'd play around with 800, 1600, 2400, until it gets too noisy to be worth it.

Do you have any shorter lenses?
Click to expand...

Very light photoshop work (levels/brightness and contrast/shadows and highlights); nothing too extreme. I actually did shoot it in RAW. Anything more than iso400 at the beach I go to is too noisy, especially when the stars aren't out in force. I have a stock 18-55mm but want to get a 24mm soon.
 
T

thespot84

Member
NealMcCauley said:
Very light photoshop work (levels/brightness and contrast/shadows and highlights); nothing too extreme. I actually did shoot it in RAW. Anything more than iso400 at the beach I go to is too noisy, especially when the stars aren't out in force. I have a stock 18-55mm but want to get a 24mm soon.
Click to expand...

ah the exif mentioned jpeg, my bad. I'd recently seen a good tutorial on nailing the whitebalance in star photos, which seemed to help a lot, I'll see if I can find it.
 
S

Saya

Member
Damaged said:
Its a way of starting in film photography for sure but personally I would look for an all manual body, something like an original FM or FE. I've had my FE for nearly 16 years now and its never missed a beat
Click to expand...

Thanks I think I'll do that! And the guy just sold the camera to someone else anyway haha.
 
A

Astral/H3X

Member
So, yesterday I took a bunch of photos of my girlfriend, and it's really the first time that I've really "tried" some portrait photography. I was hoping you guys could take a few looks at these and let me know any comments/suggestions you had. I don't exactly own a studio, so I was almost entirely working with natural light. All photos were taken with Canon FD f1.4 50mm, all at f1.4 (I mention this because obviously no EXIF, if it's important to anyone).

20150916-_DSC9518.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
20150916-_DSC9487.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
20150916-_DSC9484.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
20150916-_DSC9475.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
20150916-_DSC9452.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
20150916-_DSC9431.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
20150916-_DSC9421.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
20150916-_DSC9412.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
20150916-_DSC9411.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
20150916-_DSC9409.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
20150916-_DSC9342.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr

I normally wouldn't post so many photos of the same thing, but since I'm really not sure how I'm doing on this, I wanted to make sure I was getting it right, and want as much feedback as I can get. Thank you guys in advance!
 
B

BokehKing

Banned
PhotoGaf, I'm a noob, had the Nikon D32 for almost 2 years now, what should I get next?

Nothing makes sense to me
D53 and d71 share the same sensor, one has weather proofing, the other has WiFi.

Anyway, couldn't decide so picked up a new tripod and a tonika 11-16mm 2.0 for star trails down by the beach.



Edit: people don't care you're taking pictures of them as they walk down the street in the city?
 
V

VisceralBowl

Member
devilsadvocat said:
Edit: people don't care you're taking pictures of them as they walk down the street in the city?
Click to expand...
Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't. I've found it depends on the location - heavily populated areas tend to care a whole let less than more rural ones.

The key (depending on what you're going for) is to make sure they never realize it in the first place (or, at the very least, after you've taken the shot).
 
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