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How to Invest for Retirement

Cagey

Banned
So my wife's 401(k) is trash and the company (a start up) doesn't yet offer matching contributions.

After maxing out IRA contributions, is cobbling together a decent index portfolio from bad options (1.18%, 1.13% etc. fees) the best method of saving additional income towards retirement right now?

Sidenote: TSP is the best.
 
And charge 1.5% fees.

This is deceiving and you know it.

On average, active funds from third party strategists run about 50 basis points. You add another 10 basis point platform fee and you're looking 60 basis points. An advisor then adds whatever he and his clients' agree to on top of that. Most independent advisors i know charge no more than 1% all in (so .6+ .4)! The .4 they collect is not for the actively managed fund but for the service they bring to the table, whatever that may be.

There is more to Advising than buying funds, index or not.

In FACT, your client can spend $0 for an active managed fund by going to a Direct Third Party Manager such as an SEI, and pay their advisor 10 basis points for an entire year. or 40, or 50.
 

Mrbob

Member
Currently I have a vanguard account, but I'm looking at betterment.com as well. What's the general view of betterment vs vanguard?

I use Betterment and like the service. They are vanguard index funds though (which they swap out occasionally for Schwab funds). Most will recommend just staying with vanguard but Betterments fees are reasonable and they allow for investing in fractional shares. Though they set the percentage. A 90/10 account of 90% stocks is like 17% vti 17% vtv 5% small 5% mid 37% vea and like 9% vwo emerging markets. I love their allocations so that is why I use them. You can enable tax loss harvesting too from a taxable account if you wish. They also offer tax coordinated portfolio option if you want to mix a taxable and non taxable account together.

Yeah, I mean dividends.

And does Vanguard reinvest them automatically?
Account at Vanguard? Believe you need to set that up. You can either deposit the dividend into your money Market account or have vanguard automatically reinvest dividends.
 

LordPezix

Member
Yeah I think a few of us are. You looking at getting one of those designations?

Yeah I graduate with my BS in Finance in two months. I've already taken my lvl 1 exam, didn't pass but close, going in for round two. Just was looking to connect and see what other finance threads they may be participating in.

- Thanks
 
This is deceiving and you know it.

On average, active funds from third party strategists run about 50 basis points. You add another 10 basis point platform fee and you're looking 60 basis points. An advisor then adds whatever he and his clients' agree to on top of that. Most independent advisors i know charge no more than 1% all in (so .6+ .4)! The .4 they collect is not for the actively managed fund but for the service they bring to the table, whatever that may be.

There is more to Advising than buying funds, index or not.

In FACT, your client can spend $0 for an active managed fund by going to a Direct Third Party Manager such as an SEI, and pay their advisor 10 basis points for an entire year. or 40, or 50.

Come on, now. You can recognize a joke. Though, like all jokes, it's not one based too far off reality.
 

Darren870

Member
Quick financial question, not retirement based though.

GF has a car loan at some crazy percentage (like 20%!?!)
She is paying $414 a month and the loan matures on Feb 2021. Basically looking at paying ~19k

She has the means to pay it off now for ~14k. Saving about $5k.

Is there anything else she can do? Car isn't even worth 8k. No crazy trade in deals people have heard of or something silly that we may be missing?

I've always bought my cars outright, so not really familiar with the best way to tackle this.

Cheers!
 
Quick financial question, not retirement based though.

GF has a car loan at some crazy percentage (like 20%!?!)
She is paying $414 a month and the loan matures on Feb 2021. Basically looking at paying ~19k

She has the means to pay it off now for ~14k. Saving about $5k.

Is there anything else she can do? Car isn't even worth 8k. No crazy trade in deals people have heard of or something silly that we may be missing?

I've always bought my cars outright, so not really familiar with the best way to tackle this.

Cheers!

She bought a car with a huge loan that wasn't even worth half?

Get that paid off asap and tell her to never do that again.
 

Amory

Member
Quick financial question, not retirement based though.

GF has a car loan at some crazy percentage (like 20%!?!)
She is paying $414 a month and the loan matures on Feb 2021. Basically looking at paying ~19k

She has the means to pay it off now for ~14k. Saving about $5k.

Is there anything else she can do? Car isn't even worth 8k. No crazy trade in deals people have heard of or something silly that we may be missing?

I've always bought my cars outright, so not really familiar with the best way to tackle this.

Cheers!

Yeah pay that shit off asap lol

What a terrible rate
 

Darren870

Member
Is she eligible for any line of credit where the interest is lower than that of the car loan? That's basically the only damage minimization available to her.

Maybe, but that still won't be cheaper then paying it all off say tomorrow. Which she now has the means to.

Right?
 

TylerD

Member
That feeling when you look at YNAB and see no debt but $200 on a credit card. I opened up the Vanguard brokerage account today to invest my house down payment cache. Using the tool it's splitting me between:

12% Vanguard Total Stock Market ETF (VTI)
8% Vanguard Total International Stock ETF (VXUS)
56% Vanguard Total Bond Market ETF (BND)
24% Vanguard Total International Bond ETF (BNDX)
 

Cyan

Banned
That feeling when you look at YNAB and see no debt but $200 on a credit card. I opened up the Vanguard brokerage account today to invest my house down payment cache. Using the tool it's splitting me between:

12% Vanguard Total Stock Market ETF (VTI)
8% Vanguard Total International Stock ETF (VXUS)
56% Vanguard Total Bond Market ETF (BND)
24% Vanguard Total International Bond ETF (BNDX)

80% is a huge proportion for bonds. Any idea why it's putting you so bond-heavy?
 

TylerD

Member
80% is a huge proportion for bonds. Any idea why it's putting you so bond-heavy?

Yeah it is. Risk and income and investment seem to be the largest factors. I'm thinking more 60/40 bonds to stocks and this hits it.

dYfQ0Ps.jpg


Shielding for retirement?

I'm looking max 3-5 years but hopefully closer to 2 before we buy a house. This is just a place to store the house down payment cash and future contributions so it's not getting shit .25% interest in my savings account.
 

ascii42

Member
Well, if you are pulling it out in 3-5 years and pulling out all the money in the first couple years (probably all at once in your case) it makes sense for it to be similar proportionally to someone nearing retirement.
 

Izayoi

Banned
Just hearing about YNAB now... I was previously using EveryDollar, but this seems like a much better deal. This thread is the gift that keeps on giving, you guys are amazing. <3
 

TylerD

Member
Well, if you are pulling it out in 3-5 years and pulling out all the money in the first couple years (probably all at once in your case) it makes sense for it to be similar proportionally to someone nearing retirement.

Very true.

Hmm, interesting tool. Is this more of a passive investment or do you plan to be rather active with it?

I'll be active in putting more money in as I go but passive in so far as tinkering with the distribution between stocks and bonds.

Just hearing about YNAB now... I was previously using EveryDollar, but this seems like a much better deal. This thread is the gift that keeps on giving, you guys are amazing. <3

I love YNAB. It has a learning curve but it's well worth it. If you have a large bank that you can connect your accounts directly through it, you can import transactions. I have to manually do my checking and savings accounts but I make 90% of my purchases through my Chase Freedom CC.

They have added some nice chart tracking tools lately.

It's free for the first year and i think 10% discount after for students if you have a .edu email. I'm using my fiance's email address.
 

teiresias

Member
80% is a huge proportion for bonds. Any idea why it's putting you so bond-heavy?

He does say it's for home down payment saving purposes, so it's likely timeline and risk aversion factors taken into account. I'd certainly not go too terribly high risk when saving for something like that that should be relatively short term (relative to retirement savings obviously).
 

Morts

Member
So I maxed out my Roth IRA for the year and figure I'll buy an index fund in my brokerage account. Would is there any reason not to get Vanguard Total Stock Market if it's already in my Roth? Is that reason enough to go with S&P 500 instead (VFINX)?

Also no matter how research I do I don't understand the difference between an Index Fund and an ETF - other than that you can buy an ETF at difference prices throughout the day and an Index Fund is traded at its closing price? Why do they have different minimum investments? Would I want to exchange an ETF for the equivalent mutual fund once it reaches the fund's minimum?
 

LordPezix

Member
He does say it's for home down payment saving purposes, so it's likely timeline and risk aversion factors taken into account. I'd certainly not go too terribly high risk when saving for something like that that should be relatively short term (relative to retirement savings obviously).

That is true, but in reality after inflation is included he might be looking at a 3-5% return with that portfolio and if his target is a down payment for a house in a few years, an X down payment today won't get you X house in the future. If anything he should be considering what kind of house he wishes to move into and try and pace the down payment increase percentage with his portfolio. I mean this is all depending on where he wants to live, I am from Portland, OR so rapid housing price increase is the norm around here.
 

johnny956

Member
So I maxed out my Roth IRA for the year and figure I'll buy an index fund in my brokerage account. Would is there any reason not to get Vanguard Total Stock Market if it's already in my Roth? Is that reason enough to go with S&P 500 instead (VFINX)?

Also no matter how research I do I don't understand the difference between an Index Fund and an ETF - other than that you can buy an ETF at difference prices throughout the day and an Index Fund is traded at its closing price? Why do they have different minimum investments? Would I want to exchange an ETF for the equivalent mutual fund once it reaches the fund's minimum?

Do ETF has easier ways to track each shares bought or is that something I made up? Besides auto contributions only working with mutual funds I'm not sure if the differences matter that much. TSM is tax friendly so I would go that route
 

SolKane

Member
Also no matter how research I do I don't understand the difference between an Index Fund and an ETF - other than that you can buy an ETF at difference prices throughout the day and an Index Fund is traded at its closing price? Why do they have different minimum investments? Would I want to exchange an ETF for the equivalent mutual fund once it reaches the fund's minimum?

If you're looking at Vanguard funds, there's very little difference other than the minimum investment amount for their mutual funds, and the ability to buy partial shares of a mutual fund. This is from their website:

"What's the difference between a Vanguard ETF and a Vanguard mutual fund?

Each Vanguard ETF is a share class of a Vanguard index mutual fund, so many characteristics—like the fund's objective, holdings, and management—are identical.

The main difference is that Vanguard ETFs trade on an exchange like stocks, so they're priced—and can be bought and sold—throughout the trading day. Because they're traded on an exchange, they must be bought and sold through a brokerage account.

Vanguard ETF Shares also have lower expense ratios and investment minimums than Investor Shares of the same fund."
 

Cyan

Banned
He does say it's for home down payment saving purposes, so it's likely timeline and risk aversion factors taken into account. I'd certainly not go too terribly high risk when saving for something like that that should be relatively short term (relative to retirement savings obviously).
Oh, haha, I totally misread that. Yeah, that's quite a short time horizon.
 

BraXzy

Member
What's a good rule of thumb for an amount to save per month from your salary?

I've been throwing bits and bobs each month into a Vanguard Stocks ISA split among a couple things, I'm going to just focus purely on index trackers from now on though after reading this thread.

Main goal besides generally saving, is to build up a down payment on a house (to be ideally bought in the next 3-5 years). I constantly see people warn against wasting time on savings accounts. Where should I keep the money I'm saving towards a house? Index funds too?
 

tokkun

Member

There is a major problem for people using this calculation in the US: healthcare costs.

For most people retiring early, healthcare costs will be significantly higher in retirement because:
- They are no longer being subsidized by your employer
- Costs have been growing faster than inflation
- As you get older, you tend to require more care

To really make an informed decision you need to model healthcare costs into your calculation. Although with the current political uncertainty about the ACA, it's not even possible to do that with any degree of confidence.
 
Well yes, this one one model not one model to rule them all.
Anyway as it is now it seems unlikely that I will be retiring in the US. :p

Yeah, I certainly will not be living in the US for my retirement. Hell, I don't live there now. I'd rather be saving that extra cash for my retirement &#129299;
 

BraXzy

Member
There's no one-size-fits-all rule for saving, but the common advice is "as much as you can." If I had to pick a number, I would say you should save a bare minimum of 10-15% of your post-tax income towards retirement, assuming you're in your 20s. If you're older and haven't started saving for retirement yet, you need to save more than that. I want to repeat that this number is a bare minimum and you need to really do the math on your own income/savings/lifestyle/retirement plan before you ever consider taking a random number an internet stranger tosses out at you. And, this number is just the percent you should save for retirement purposes, it doesn't include how much you should be saving for larger purchases you want to accomplish later in life, such as a car or home.

Yeah I appreciate that. I have 3% of my salary pre-tax going directly to my pension, matched by employer. I'm planning on bumping that up to 10% or so.

What is your recommendation on where to store money saving for those larger purchases that aren't retirement based?
 

BraXzy

Member

I'll take a proper look at the links when I get home, thanks for the info.

Depends on the time frame and your risk tolerance.
If you definitely need the money in 24 months no matter what. Don't invest it.
If you might need it in 4 years but it makes little difference if it ends up being in 6 years. Invest it.

I guess my question is, if some of my goals end up landing in the 24 month ish range, what should "don't invest it" be? Savings account for the sake of somewhere to keep it?
 

GhaleonEB

Member
There is a major problem for people using this calculation in the US: healthcare costs.

For most people retiring early, healthcare costs will be significantly higher in retirement because:
- They are no longer being subsidized by your employer
- Costs have been growing faster than inflation
- As you get older, you tend to require more care

To really make an informed decision you need to model healthcare costs into your calculation. Although with the current political uncertainty about the ACA, it's not even possible to do that with any degree of confidence.

I also wish I could enter how much I have saved currently. The calculator starts with zero, when I'd like to start with where I'm at. It's only useful if you are starting from scratch, unless I'm missing some options.
 

SyNapSe

Member
I also wish I could enter how much I have saved currently. The calculator starts with zero, when I'd like to start with where I'm at. It's only useful if you are starting from scratch, unless I'm missing some options.

Isn't that the current portfolio value field?
 

GhaleonEB

Member
Thanks, I somehow went over that several times and didn't grog onto that field.

Edit: it's estimate is right in line with what I've been tracking as well, good to have that as a sanity check.
 
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