• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

How to Invest for Retirement

Been asking around about this question and figured I would drop it here as well.

401K is maxed out as far as work matching
I can probably spare $200 a month that I'd rather not have sitting in a checking account losing money.
I can convert a good portion of my term life insurance to whole life and earn some ok interest but maintain a death benefit after my 20 year term is up
Or I can try something else with it.

Just looking to see what options I have
 

GhaleonEB

Member
Been asking around about this question and figured I would drop it here as well.

401K is maxed out as far as work matching
I can probably spare $200 a month that I'd rather not have sitting in a checking account losing money.
I can convert a good portion of my term life insurance to whole life and earn some ok interest but maintain a death benefit after my 20 year term is up
Or I can try something else with it.

Just looking to see what options I have

Do you have an IRA? It's a good idea to prioritize your 401k up to the employer match, and then max your IRA thereafter, generally due to the larger set of investment options and lower fees (no account fees, index funds with low expense ratios).
 
Been asking around about this question and figured I would drop it here as well.

401K is maxed out as far as work matching
I can probably spare $200 a month that I'd rather not have sitting in a checking account losing money.
I can convert a good portion of my term life insurance to whole life and earn some ok interest but maintain a death benefit after my 20 year term is up
Or I can try something else with it.

Just looking to see what options I have

Never do this. Never. Whole life insurance is a scam.

Do you have an emergency fund of at least 3 to 6 months of expenses? If not, start there first.

After that, what would you be saving the money for? Down payment on a house? Retirement? College savings for kids? There are different investment vehicles available based on what you're saving for.
 
Do you have an IRA? It's a good idea to prioritize your 401k up to the employer match, and then max your IRA thereafter, generally due to the larger set of investment options and lower fees (no account fees, index funds with low expense ratios).

I don't, but can set one up through the same company that manages our benefits. When you say index funds you mean I can set it to be tied to the S&P 500 if I want?
Would $200 a month be a decent amount to start with?

Never do this. Never. Whole life insurance is a scam.

Do you have an emergency fund of at least 3 to 6 months of expenses? If not, start there first.

After that, what would you be saving the money for? Down payment on a house? Retirement? College savings for kids? There are different investment vehicles available based on what you're saving for.

Yeah emergency savings for 6 months is set

I don't really have any particular thing to save for, it's just that I don't want the money sitting in a checking account, it's not earning much interest there so I'm losing money keeping it there.
 

Amory

Member
I used to do a Roth 401k at my old company, but the post-tax contribution hurt. Then a friend of mine told me that Roth accounts aren't as great as they're made out to be because you're contributing less money (and thus buying fewer shares) each pay period. So when you go to retire, yeah you'll have to pay tax, but you'll have way more shares to cash out.

Any truth to this?
 
Yeah emergency savings for 6 months is set

I don't really have any particular thing to save for, it's just that I don't want the money sitting in a checking account, it's not earning much interest there so I'm losing money keeping it there.

Then you should probably add it to your retirement savings, likely through a Roth IRA unless you're in a very high tax bracket.

I used to do a Roth 401k at my old company, but the post-tax contribution hurt. Then a friend of mine told me that Roth accounts aren't as great as they're made out to be because you're contributing less money (and thus buying fewer shares) each pay period. So when you go to retire, yeah you'll have to pay tax, but you'll have way more shares to cash out.

Any truth to this?

A Roth IRA vs. a 401(k) is a debatable topic, and will likely depend on your personal situation. Do note that a Roth 401(k) doesn't play by the same rules as a Roth IRA in certain aspects, such as early withdrawals of contributions and required minimum distributions.

http://www.marketwatch.com/story/is-a-roth-ira-better-than-a-roth-401k-2014-03-21

Most financial experts recommend 401(k) up to the company match, followed by Roth IRA, followed by adding more to the 401(k). But it really depends on your personal situation, such as your tax rate or using a Roth IRA for estate planning purposes.
 

Cyan

Banned
I used to do a Roth 401k at my old company, but the post-tax contribution hurt. Then a friend of mine told me that Roth accounts aren't as great as they're made out to be because you're contributing less money (and thus buying fewer shares) each pay period. So when you go to retire, yeah you'll have to pay tax, but you'll have way more shares to cash out.

Any truth to this?

No. It works out the same either way. You can do the math pretty easily.

Let's assume for the sake of simplicity a steady 8% annual growth, an unchanging 30% tax rate, and an annual $5000 contribution.

You start contributing into a standard IRA this year, contribute your $5000 pre-tax amount each year, and in thirty years you've got $616,729. You take it out and pay taxes, and you're left with $431,711.

Alternate scenario: you start contributing into a Roth IRA this year, contribute your $3500 after-tax amount each year, and in thirty years you've got (*drumroll*) $431,711. Which you can then tax out without paying taxes.

This is why people say that you should decide which one you want based on what you expect your tax rates to be. If you think your rates will be lower in retirement, a standard IRA will have the advantage. If you think they're lower now than they will be then, a Roth has the advantage.

Of course, if you're able to max out your contributions either way then this scenario no longer holds, and the Roth has an advantage because you're effectively putting more money into it.
 

Husker86

Member
I used to do a Roth 401k at my old company, but the post-tax contribution hurt. Then a friend of mine told me that Roth accounts aren't as great as they're made out to be because you're contributing less money (and thus buying fewer shares) each pay period. So when you go to retire, yeah you'll have to pay tax, but you'll have way more shares to cash out.

Any truth to this?

The only way you will have more money at retirement in your hands in regards to pre-tax vs. Roth investments is if you invest the money you'd get back from reduced taxes from using pre-tax retirement account.

That's assuming things like tax brackets stay the same.

In reality, it's probably good to have a mix of both so you can keep your tax obligation low in retirement.

It doesn't matter how many shares you have, what matters is how many dollars make it to your hands.

Roth vs. pre-tax/traditional is not a clear cut answer either way, one is not always better than the other.
 
Then you should probably add it to your retirement savings, likely through a Roth IRA unless you're in a very high tax bracket.



A Roth IRA vs. a 401(k) is a debatable topic, and will likely depend on your personal situation. Do note that a Roth 401(k) doesn't play by the same rules as a Roth IRA in certain aspects, such as early withdrawals of contributions and required minimum distributions.

http://www.marketwatch.com/story/is-a-roth-ira-better-than-a-roth-401k-2014-03-21

Most financial experts recommend 401(k) up to the company match, followed by Roth IRA, followed by adding more to the 401(k). But it really depends on your personal situation, such as your tax rate or using a Roth IRA for estate planning purposes.

Great, thanks for the info. Going to have to contact Fidelity to see how it's set up through them.
 
I used to do a Roth 401k at my old company, but the post-tax contribution hurt. Then a friend of mine told me that Roth accounts aren't as great as they're made out to be because you're contributing less money (and thus buying fewer shares) each pay period. So when you go to retire, yeah you'll have to pay tax, but you'll have way more shares to cash out.

Any truth to this?

Short version: if you're not making much money right now, favor the Roth. If you're making good money now and getting into some higher marginal tax buckets, favor the pre-tax.

Longer version: Eh, I've been through this a dozen times in this thread, I think. But yes, you'll have less money to invest if you do a Roth. All things held equal, if you have $10000 to spare out of your gross pay, a pre-tax contribution puts the whole thing in there. If you do it after tax into a Roth plan, how much will you have? Well, it depends what your top marginal rate** happens to be. If you're in the 25% bracket at the top of your income, you'll obviously have $7500. If you're in the 28% bracket, you'll have just $7200. And there are higher brackets you could get into, though these prior brackets are more likely for someone in the middle class.

So you could have $10000 growing and eventually have to pay tax, or $7200/$7500 growing and never pay tax. Here's where the difference comes in. When you pay tax on the $10,000 after growth, it will not all be taxed at the top marginal rate. It's just like regular earnings: You'll have deductions that reduce your taxable income. Then that income will be taxed at (based on current rates) 10% up to a given amount, then 15% up to a higher amount, then 25% up to yet another higher amount, etc. Your effective tax rate will be lower than whatever your top applicable marginal rate happens to be. Last year, my effective tax rate was in the teens. My top marginal rate was 28%. Tell me, why on earth would I favor paying 28% to favor a Roth when my effective rate is lower than that? The only reason I would is if I expect my effective rate to go up -- considerably -- during retirement. Do you have that expectation? Mine would have to go up 50%. (Spoiler alert: I do not expect that to happen, though my own outlook is still flexible.)

So ask yourself how much money you're making, how much taxes you're paying, what you expect to earn in the future, what you expect to make in retirement, what you expect taxes to look like in those years, and decide which course of action is right for you. Me? I favor pre-tax contributions before* Roth (but am fortunate enough to be able to do both, since 401K and IRA plans can coexist). You might come away with a different outlook, and your own outlook could change based on your earnings growth.


Edit: *Mis-typed previously, had after, meant before.
**It's best to understand that every last dollar you invest in a retirement account comes off the top of your income. If you invest it pre-tax, you're reducing your taxable income, and that's coming off the top. If you're investing it after tax, you're paying the maximum tax on that dollar beforehand. That's why you consider that you're investable amount is reduced by your top applicable rate when you choose Roth, because that's the rate you're paying (not avoiding) on those dollars.

Final edit here: If you're fortunate enough to reach a level where you can max out your 401K and a Roth IRA to IRS limits, then your calculus might change. The pre-tax route is going to give you more money you could invest additionally. The after tax route will not afford you those same dollars. The externally invested dollars could then grow, you would pay taxes at capital gains rates on long term gains, and you might have to think a bit more on where it makes sense to perhaps divide your money into pre-tax and after-tax contributions. But these are advanced exercises. If you're somewhere below those maximums, then it's a bit simpler, in my opinion.
 

Wellington

BAAAALLLINNN'
I used to do a Roth 401k at my old company, but the post-tax contribution hurt. Then a friend of mine told me that Roth accounts aren't as great as they're made out to be because you're contributing less money (and thus buying fewer shares) each pay period. So when you go to retire, yeah you'll have to pay tax, but you'll have way more shares to cash out.

Any truth to this?

I'm with RF on this one. I am currently making much more money than I ever will when I need access to my retirement funds. My tax bracket and tax rate is much higher now than what it will be when I actually need to access the money. I'll take the tax break now and figure it out later.
 
So the company I work for when I started had both a 401k plan and a pension plan. Last year they announce they were completely doing away with the pension plan.

I've been here for 8 years and have somewhere between $5-10k in that pension account. In the next month or two I have to figure out what to do with it.

I think my options are to get a sum payout minus tax penalties, roll it into the 401k account, or dump it into some kind of IRA account (which I still don't fully understand).

Any recommendations of what some of you would do in this situation?
 
So the company I work for when I started had both a 401k plan and a pension plan. Last year they announce they were completely doing away with the pension plan.

I've been here for 8 years and have somewhere between $5-10k in that pension account. In the next month or two I have to figure out what to do with it.

I think my options are to get a sum payout minus tax penalties, roll it into the 401k account, or dump it into some kind of IRA account (which I still don't fully understand).

Any recommendations of what some of you would do in this situation?

Don't take the lump sum distribution with tax penalties. The IRA option they are probably offering you is to roll it over into your own Rollover IRA account. Generally you have to be separated from your employer to use this option, but they might be giving you this option now because the pension plan is going away. If so, you should probably do the Rollover IRA and move it to somewhere like Vanguard or T. Rowe Price, where you'll get better investment options than you likely will through your company's 401(k).
 

diffusionx

Gold Member
I think my options are to get a sum payout minus tax penalties, roll it into the 401k account, or dump it into some kind of IRA account (which I still don't fully understand).

Any recommendations of what some of you would do in this situation?

If you're satisfied with you 401k portfolio selection and what not, I would just roll it into the 401k and forget about it.
 

Maxim726X

Member
What are the opinions about Betterment here?

Think I may switch over for both Mutual Funds (currently at Vanguard) and setting up a retirement fund. Like the idea/performance behind automated investments. Same success rates without the fees.
 

Husker86

Member
What are the opinions about Betterment here?

Think I may switch over for both Mutual Funds (currently at Vanguard) and setting up a retirement fund. Like the idea/performance behind automated investments. Same success rates without the fees.
I think it's pretty good, at least on the surface it appears so, but I wouldn't use it personally. The fees are low, but they are still extra fees on top of the fund fees.

I wouldn't have an issue recommending it to friends/family who want to be completely hands off, though.
 

Wellington

BAAAALLLINNN'
What are the opinions about Betterment here?

Think I may switch over for both Mutual Funds (currently at Vanguard) and setting up a retirement fund. Like the idea/performance behind automated investments. Same success rates without the fees.

I am on it and like it. If you're already at Vanguard I am not sure why you would change tho. I have deposited $11k in there so far. I actually just got my first notification for tax loss harvesting - Betterment has harvested enough for me to have a savings of $21, which already pays for all of the fees for almost a full year for the account.

Guys like MMM and Mad Fientist use it but take their recommendation with a grain of salt since they get paid for every sign up through their link.

http://www.madfientist.com/moving-my-money-to-betterment/

http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2014/11/04/why-i-put-my-last-100000-into-betterment/

I was on the fence about Betterment for a long time, what pushed me over the edge was meeting some of the people that work there at New York Cares Day in the Bronx. Very smart, knowledgeable and cool people.
 
My company's 401k is worse than I thought. No matching and very limited choices. Would something like this be suitable? I'm 25 and don't feel I really need much in terms of bonds yet.

Columbia Large Cap Index Z (NINDX) - 55%
Dodge & Cox International Stock (DODFX) - 40%
Dodge & Cox Income Fund Bonds (DODIX) - 5%

Theres also a Vanguard Mid-Cap Growth Index (VMGIX) if I wanted to diversify, but no VTSMX or anything similar from what I understand.

I'll be maxing my Roth IRA through Vanguard way before I focus on this too.
 

Mr.Mike

Member
Do services like Betterment do your capital gains tax for you? That might be something that would get me to use a roboadvisor for a taxable account.
 

Husker86

Member
My company's 401k is worse than I thought. No matching and very limited choices. Would something like this be suitable? I'm 25 and don't feel I really need much in terms of bonds yet.

Columbia Large Cap Index Z (NINDX) - 55%
Dodge & Cox International Stock (DODFX) - 40%
Dodge & Cox Income Fund Bonds (DODIX) - 5%

Theres also a Vanguard Mid-Cap Growth Index (VMGIX) if I wanted to diversify, but no VTSMX or anything similar from what I understand.

I'll be maxing my Roth IRA through Vanguard way before I focus on this too.

Since you're maxing your Roth, it's probably still not a bad idea to put some into that 401k for more tax-advantaged savings. NINDX expense ratio is double what Fidelity/Vanguard large cap fund expenses are, but it's not completely terrible. Putting some into that and maybe VMGIX I think would be beneficial. Diversify (international, etc.) using your Roth.

Do services like Betterment do your capital gains tax for you? That might be something that would get me to use a roboadvisor for a taxable account.


What do you mean "do your capital gains tax for you"? No matter what you're going to have to fill out (or pay someone to) your tax forms each year. Or am I missing something?
 

Mr.Mike

Member
What do you mean "do your capital gains tax for you"? No matter what you're going to have to fill out (or pay someone to) your tax forms each year. Or am I missing something?

I suppose I don't really know how capital gains tax works, but I mean as in calculating your capital gains so you can just fill in that number on your tax forms. As opposed to going through and adding up all your dividends and subtracting any capital loss harvesting and so on.


Or like fill out some forms for you. Or do Canadian brokerages provide T3/T5 forms regardless?
 
I suppose I don't really know how capital gains tax works, but I mean as in calculating your capital gains so you can just fill in that number on your tax forms. As opposed to going through and adding up all your dividends and subtracting any capital loss harvesting and so on.


Or like fill out some forms for you. Or do Canadian brokerages provide T3/T5 forms regardless?

I'm American but anyway I used TaxAct this year (I assume the others work the same) and there were directions for how to convert my Schwab brokerage account tax statement into a format that TaxAct could import, and after I told it which columns were which and such as that it pretty much did the work of filling out the tax forms for me. I had a number of transactions, some of which were short term and some of which were long term, ect. so it was especially groovy that I didn't have to figure all that out on my own.
So it's on the tax software side that gets sorted out - I don't think using a roboadvisor is going to help with filling out tax forms anymore than any other investment method in a taxable account.
 

Wellington

BAAAALLLINNN'
Do services like Betterment do your capital gains tax for you? That might be something that would get me to use a roboadvisor for a taxable account.

Here is an explanation of what they do for you regarding tax forms. https://www.betterment.com/resource...es/2014-tax-return-planning-ahead-betterment/

The last few days the market hasn't been the greatest as a result I mentioned last page that they were able to harvest some losses for me. Today I got an email that they were able to do it again. Here is the message and here is what it shows on the Betterment page. I am not at the highest bracket so they don't save me that much at the end of the year but by my calcs I have already harvested enough to cover the fees for the year with Betterment.

Q45pT5A.png


IlKFjVz.png

My one hangup with them is I am not the biggest fan of their allocations in regards to foreign investments.
 

Husker86

Member
Here is an explanation of what they do for you regarding tax forms. https://www.betterment.com/resource...es/2014-tax-return-planning-ahead-betterment/

The last few days the market hasn't been the greatest as a result I mentioned last page that they were able to harvest some losses for me. Today I got an email that they were able to do it again. Here is the message and here is what it shows on the Betterment page. I am not at the highest bracket so they don't save me that much at the end of the year but by my calcs I have already harvested enough to cover the fees for the year with Betterment.



My one hangup with them is I am not the biggest fan of their allocations in regards to foreign investments.

I gotta say, that is pretty slick.

edit: Well shit, I might just have to give this a try. I wish I could find a review that didn't have a referral link, but I suppose if I were writing a review I would put in a referral link, too.
 
wow everything is down. my money is now worth 200$ less. oh gosh. and i don't even think i bought high at all. i mean, how low will cad sink?

i diversified my portfolio but everything is red. aaahahaha. so much for reducing risk. ;p
 

Piecake

Member
wow everything is down. my money is now worth 200$ less. oh gosh. and i don't even think i bought high at all. i mean, how low will cad sink?

i diversified my portfolio but everything is red. aaahahaha. so much for reducing risk. ;p

I think you would feel a whole lot better if you simply ignored all of that noise, because that what financial news is, noise. I honestly havent looked at the stock market in months and havent bothered to log in to my vanguard account since I needed some documents for taxes.

Why can I do this? because short term noise does not matter. Who gives a shit if the market goes down a bit when we are investing for the long-term? It does not matter at all. I mean, what if the market crashes tomorrow and loses 50% of its value? What happens? What do you do? I know what I will do. I will not care and do nothing. Well, actually, I will probably get excited, feel bad for getting excited, then dump all of the money that I can afford into the market. The point is, you arent going to sell for another 30+ years. That means that you won't have to worry about the ups and downs of the market for at least 20+

The sooner you stop worrying about short-term nonsense the better you will feel.
 

GhaleonEB

Member
wow everything is down. my money is now worth 200$ less. oh gosh. and i don't even think i bought high at all. i mean, how low will cad sink?

i diversified my portfolio but everything is red. aaahahaha. so much for reducing risk. ;p

To add to Piecake's comments: passive, long term investing means not worrying about short term swings. Just stay the course and don't worry about the day to day, or week to week, or even month to month volatility.

This is the S&P500 over the past five days, which is about what I'm guessing you are worried about. Things were down this week.

SampP1_zpsgguka7eu.png


But this is what it looks like YTD - it's actually up. The dip of the last week is just a blip.

SampP2_zpsna8lwvnx.png


This is the five year view.

SampP3_zpswnwznrvx.png


This is ten years.

SampP4_zpsicx2eutg.png


2008 was a bit rough.

In each of those graphs, there are a ton of down periods. If you worried about each of them, you'd either go crazy or make a lot of poor, rash decisions (or both). But if you stayed with it, and kept investing along the way, you'd be in great shape. This is what long term investing looks like.

Personally, I only really check once a month when I mark down in my investment file what all our finances look like at month end. Sometimes we're down, usually it's up, but the long term trajectory is relentlessly up.
 

Maxim726X

Member
Here is an explanation of what they do for you regarding tax forms. https://www.betterment.com/resource...es/2014-tax-return-planning-ahead-betterment/

The last few days the market hasn't been the greatest as a result I mentioned last page that they were able to harvest some losses for me. Today I got an email that they were able to do it again. Here is the message and here is what it shows on the Betterment page. I am not at the highest bracket so they don't save me that much at the end of the year but by my calcs I have already harvested enough to cover the fees for the year with Betterment.



My one hangup with them is I am not the biggest fan of their allocations in regards to foreign investments.

Thanks for the info! And thank you to everyone else who is contributing to this thread... Learning a lot. Much appreciated.
 
Getting into investing as an American expat is kind of a pain. Vanguard doesn't seem to want to work with oversees Americans, but apparently you can get around that by using a family member's domestic address... I'd like to avoid any trouble and keep things straight and clear with the IRS, but it's difficult to understand some of the details. Also, apparently it's impossible for me to take advantage of IRA benefits? I'm not clear on this and it's hard to find solid information about the legal technicalities online.

I'm reading The Global Expatriate's Guide to Investing. It's basic stuff, mostly the same as you'd read here: (Index funds!) and the author of the book recommends http://assetbuilder.com/ on his blog for an easy way to get into investing as an expat. The $50,000 minimum is pretty big, but it seems like a solid way for simple investing.

The bulk of my American money has been sitting in a CD with a pathetic interest rate for a long time, and I'm getting antsy about keeping it there any longer. I knew it was getting a shitty return but I hadn't realized how poor it was until recently.

Anyway, I'll finish the book and hopefully get started with an investment account this month (it's looking like a Schwab Brokerage Account is my best option so far). I'm not at all interested in actively trading. I just want to invest into index funds and bonds to beat inflation/fund retirement. Any other expats who have gone through this recently?
 

numble

Member
Getting into investing as an American expat is kind of a pain. Vanguard doesn't seem to want to work with oversees Americans, but apparently you can get around that by using a family member's domestic address... I'd like to avoid any trouble and keep things straight and clear with the IRS, but it's difficult to understand some of the details. Also, apparently it's impossible for me to take advantage of IRA benefits? I'm not clear on this and it's hard to find solid information about the legal technicalities online.

I'm reading The Global Expatriate's Guide to Investing. It's basic stuff, mostly the same as you'd read here: (Index funds!) and the author of the book recommends http://assetbuilder.com/ on his blog for an easy way to get into investing as an expat. The $50,000 minimum is pretty big, but it seems like a solid way for simple investing.

The bulk of my American money has been sitting in a CD with a pathetic interest rate for a long time, and I'm getting antsy about keeping it there any longer. I knew it was getting a shitty return but I hadn't realized how poor it was until recently.

Anyway, I'll finish the book and hopefully get started with an investment account this month (it's looking like a Schwab Brokerage Account is my best option so far). Any other expats who have gone through this recently?

If you are taking advantage of the foreign income exclusion or foreign housing exclusion, you cannot use any income excluded with those exclusions to fund a IRA. So if you have $40,000 income but you exclude it all from tax with the above exclusions, you have no money to put in an IRA.

If you max out the foreign income/housing exclusions, you are likely in an income territory that cannot enjoy IRA benefits (the IRA benefit phases out after you earn $114,000 in income--this figure must include any amount you excluded with the foreign income/housing exclusions, and the max foreign income+housing exclusion is usually $131,040, unless you live in one of the designated high-cost cities).

If you live in a high-tax country, it may make better sense to take a foreign tax credit instead of using the foreign income exclusion.
 

Deadly Cyclone

Pride of Iowa State
So, I need some assistance. Through my company I have a retirement account via Vanguard in which they match a percentage. Now I'm not contributing as much as I should for matching, but I'll get there as I pay off more short term stuff.

My question is, right now it shows I'm 100% invested in the "Target Retirement 2050 Trust Plus" plan. I see I can add another fund to that mix. Based on the OP it looks like I should be targeting index funds, is that correct? Would I do a 70%/30% mix?

Here are the funds available to me, which should I steer towards?

 

GhaleonEB

Member
Vanguard Institutional Index Fund Institutional Plus = S&P 500 index

Vanguard Extended Market Index Fund Investor Shares
= Midcap index

The description from the Extended Market fund:

This fund offers investors a low-cost way to gain broad exposure to U.S. mid- and small-capitalization stocks in one fund. The fund invests in about 3,000 stocks, which span many different industries and account for about one-fourth of the market-cap of the U.S. stock market. One of the fund’s risks is its full exposure to the mid- and small-cap markets, which tend to be more volatile than the large-cap market. The fund is considered a complement to Vanguard 500 Index Fund. Together they provide exposure to the entire U.S. equity market.
It's unfortunate that they don't offer Vanguard's total US market index, but you can pretty much get there with a combination of these two, in a 75/25 mix. My advice would be to do so, exiting the target date fund. You might also consider the International index if you want international exposure (the one at the bottom, not the emerging markets index), and the total bond fund if you want bonds to moderate your volatility. This is a personal call, but I'd just stick to the two US market indexes and re-evaluate bonds much closer to retirement.
 

Deadly Cyclone

Pride of Iowa State
Vanguard Institutional Index Fund Institutional Plus = S&P 500 index

Vanguard Extended Market Index Fund Investor Shares
= Midcap index

The description from the Extended Market fund:


It's unfortunate that they don't offer Vanguard's total US market index, but you can pretty much get there with a combination of these two, in a 75/25 mix. My advice would be to do so, exiting the target date fund. You might also consider the International index if you want international exposure (the one at the bottom, not the emerging markets index), and the total bond fund if you want bonds to moderate your volatility. This is a personal call, but I'd just stick to the two US market indexes and re-evaluate bonds much closer to retirement.

Interesting, so exit the date fund altogether? This is my first time really getting into any of this, so I'm still wary of making big changes. I might give your advice a shot.
 
Interesting, so exit the date fund altogether? This is my first time really getting into any of this, so I'm still wary of making big changes. I might give your advice a shot.

I agree with Ghaleon. Exiting the target fund completely will give you full control and greater flexibility, but you can still follow its basic approach on your own. For example, Vanguard's 2050 fund is composed of 59% domestic stock, 31% international stock, and 10% bonds (it's split between domestic and international, but the international component is almost immaterial).

Based on the funds you have, you can mimic this with, say, 44% in VIIIX, 15% in VEMPX, 31% in VTSNX, and 10% in VBMPX. That's going to be roughly what's in your target fund, except now you're not married to these percentages (though if you don't want to think about it, leave it as precisely this and walk away). Don't want as much in international? Slide some over to VIIIX/VEMPX. Want to tilt more towards small and mid caps? Increase your VEMPX by a few points, reduce your VIIIX. Want more or less in bonds? Adjust your percentages to your liking. The point is you can follow Vanguard's lead, but make customizations to fit your preferences for risk, return, etc.
 
Really? I don't want any money in my company's stock?

Not a dime more than you have to. As soon as it's eligible to be moved, move it. That's nothing against your company, you just don't want to have that much money tied up in just one business. For the average worker (and your mileage may vary), there's not much point in having anything in your own company. If it shows up in a broad index fund (as mine does), great, but if not, that's also great.

Now, if you work for an interesting company and want to make a bet that it will outperform the market, then make that play if you wish. But it's frought with peril. If that company underperforms, a significant portion of your portfolio is being dragged down with it.
 

Deadly Cyclone

Pride of Iowa State
Not a dime more than you have to. As soon as it's eligible to be moved, move it. That's nothing against your company, you just don't want to have that much money tied up in just one business. For the average worker (and your mileage may vary), there's not much point in having anything in your own company. If it shows up in a broad index fund (as mine does), great, but if not, that's also great.

Good to know. So do I split it 50/50 between the two Ghal recommended? With those two my new asset mix is showing 100% stocks, is this how I want it? No bonds?
 
Good to know. So do I split it 50/50 between the two Ghal recommended? With those two my new asset mix is showing 100% stocks, is this how I want it? No bonds?

50/50 is overweighting small and mid-caps. Ghaleon recommend 75 large / 25 small and mid, and Vanguard is typically closer to 73/27, but it's close enough.

As for bonds, that's your call. Me, I'm far enough away from retirement that I don't want any bonds even though a target fund would have me in them. I choose to go a different direction, just as I choose not to have the 30% in international that a target fund for my age might do (I'm around 13%). Again, if you go back to the percentages I listed earlier, you can mimic Vanguard, or you can customize them as you prefer.

44% VIIIX (domestic large cap)
15% VEMPX (domestic small/mid)
31% VTSNX (international stock)
10% VBMPX (bond)

That's roughly what Vanguard is. If it were me, it would look closer to

60% VIIIX
27% VEMPX
13% VTSNX

Which represents a domestic tilt, with a further tilt towards small and mid caps, and no bonds. But that's me, and I won't tell anybody else to follow my lead.
 

Deadly Cyclone

Pride of Iowa State
Gotcha. Thanks guys. I submitted a change to remove the year fund and add

Vanguard Extended Market Index Fund Institutional Plus Shares 74%
Vanguard Institutional Index Fund Institutional Plus Shares 26%
 

Cyan

Banned
I'd just stick to the two US market indexes and re-evaluate bonds much closer to retirement.

Ghaleon with the stab in the back.

Edit:
For the record, Deadly Cyclone, holding zero bonds is generally considered quite aggressive. For some reason a lot of the GAF investing folks are super into it, but don't think that that's the standard.
 

Deadly Cyclone

Pride of Iowa State
Ghaleon with the stab in the back.

Edit:
For the record, Deadly Cyclone, holding zero bonds is generally considered quite aggressive. For some reason a lot of the GAF investing folks are super into it, but don't think that that's the standard.

Gotcha.

Well, if I were to consider adding a bond to the mix what would be a good suggested one? Like I said, fairly new to all this.
 
Ghaleon with the stab in the back.

Edit:
For the record, Deadly Cyclone, holding zero bonds is generally considered quite aggressive. For some reason a lot of the GAF investing folks are super into it, but don't think that that's the standard.

Your portfolio should shift to include a greater percentage of conservative investments (such as bonds) as you get closer to retirement age, but most GAF investing folks are pretty young, and at least 20 to 30 years away from retirement. It's okay to be ultra aggressive when the money cannot be accessed for such a long period of time.
 
Top Bottom