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"I need a new PC!" 2010 Edition

All right. I built a PC for a friend of mine, then after a month the PC doesn't start.

Nothing happens, not even a green light on the mobo. I say, must be the PSU. No, change the PSU, hook up cables and nothing happens. Must be the Mobo then right? Sent it back, was on warranty. I hope they send it back new.

But the question is, am I doing right?
 
·feist· said:
Congrats. It really isn't as daunting as it may initially seem and you're all the better for the experience gained. I have to say though, it's surprising to see stock cooling on such a high-end chip. Even the E4500 in one of my old builds had a nice and stout aftermarket HSF. Hell, I don't even think I could ever go back to using pushpins either.

I don't plan to overclock anything so I'm sure it'll be fine.

Although, "it's not as daunting as it may initially seem" is probably not true... at least for me. Now shit won't start up and I can't figure out why, and troubleshooting is more daunting than building :(
 
Amir0x said:
I don't plan to overclock anything so I'm sure it'll be fine.

Although, "it's not as daunting as it may initially seem" is probably not true... at least for me. Now shit won't start up and I can't figure out why, and troubleshooting is more daunting than building :(

What in particular doesn't start up?
 
None of the fans, for one. And the motherboard itself lights up with indicators, but no BIOS or anything comes on the screen, and the PC itself doesn't turn on
 
Amir0x said:
None of the fans, for one. And the motherboard itself lights up with indicators, but no BIOS or anything comes on the screen, and the PC itself doesn't turn on

Okay, so you should have connected both the 24pin plug from the PSU and the two 4 pin ones? Have you connected the wires from the case onto the motherboard, LED etc? You'll need those to actually make the power button on your case work.
 
Amir0x said:
None of the fans, for one. And the motherboard itself lights up with indicators, but no BIOS or anything comes on the screen, and the PC itself doesn't turn on

You using the two six pin PCIe power connectors for your GPU? Your GPU connected to a monitor?

Try running the absolute base configuration you can. One HDD, no case fans, one RAM stick, one GPU, your CPU and nothing else. Something as simple as a dodgy fan (or fan controller) can stop your PC from booting.
 
Can't really give you any advice that hasn't been given, Amir0x, but that sure is a shitty situation. brain_stew's recommendation is solid, but it might be that you have a faulty part or two.

Shitty because this is your first try. You want to get everything just right the first try, cause troubleshooting hardware can be such a bitch.

I'm feeling for ya.
 
Ami, did you make certain that the clear cmos switch wasn't triggered? I have that same mobo and there is a button on the back near the PS/2 ports, I believe. If this button is engaged, I'm pretty sure you won't be able to start the machine.

Also, when you do get it running, you'll have to manually adjust your memory to run at proper speed.

have to say though, it's surprising to see stock cooling on such a high-end chip.
Well, if he found everything else daunting, I don't think a custom cooler would have been a good idea as the installation is much less straight forward. I could see a first timer having issues with it. The Intel fan is fool proof.
 
Well, bought a Acer H233H 23" LCD monitor yesterday night and I have no choice but to return it & and get refunded since the backlight bleeding on this screen is too fucking much. :(
 
Amir0x said:
None of the fans, for one. And the motherboard itself lights up with indicators, but no BIOS or anything comes on the screen, and the PC itself doesn't turn on

Most stuff has been said here allready;

* Check the CLEAR CMOS button at the back.

* Try booting with only one stick of RAM, unplug as many devices as you can, no HD, no case fans.

* It sounds like you're having a RAM or CPU issue. One of these might be faulty. :-/

* That XMS3 ram should be compatible with that mobo without having to manually configure something.

* RAM has to be in the WHITE memory slots, from the looks on that pic they are in the correct slots, some of these boards won't boot if there isn't ram in the WHITE slots.


My advise atm is taking the whole thing apart, keep your cool, do it in a well lit area. Your mobo isn't shorting when the phase LEDs are working so it has to be something else, when the LEDs work it should mean it's getting juice from your PSU.

I would even consider taking off the CPU cooler again and remove your processor, check if there is nothing in the processor slot/socket on the mobo, dirt, or thermal paste, or some plastic, who knows. Check if there aren't any pins bend.

You're in trouble shooting hell, just take your time for it and be methodical, you'll figure it out.
 
Newegg has an OCZ 30GB SSD for 79 bucks after rebate. Was thinking of picking up that along with this Spinpoint f3 to replace my 5+ year old Barracuda drive. Worthwhile upgrade or should I wait for bigger SSDs to come down in price? Also does the 16/32MB cache on the sammy matter?
 
That XMS3 ram should be compatible with that mobo without having to manually configure something.
It does need to be configured. I mean, it will work just fine without configuration, so that isn't his issue, but it will not run at full speed. I hate to manually adjust the ram settings for this.
 
try the ram one by one, slot by slot first, i read many cases of ddr3 having problems. could be the ram or your motherboard is a lemon.
also when u install your cpu, make sure it is placed down gently, the hooks inside the socket is very easy to bent. i hope you did so and have it probably locked down.
 
PC GAF need your opinion on if I'm being a dumbass.

Now that I have a 5850, after doing some benchmarks I'm getting the feeling that my old girl Q6600 is holding it back a little bit. Q6600 about 2 1/2 years old so maybe its about time to replace her.

Note: I upgraded to windows 7 Enterprise 64 bit recently and complete formatted my PC for optimum benchmarking results.

http://microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0331303

Microcenter is having a fanfuckingtastic deal on an i7 930, only problem is I live in Indianapolis and I would have to drive 1hour 1/2 to a microcenter in Ohio to pick it up. So my question is do you think this would be a worthwhile upgrade for me? If you do, can you recommend some good i7 motherboards and 6GB ramkits. The motherboard doesn't have to be for extreme overclocking but I read the 930 can easily hit 4+ gig on air and i'm using a NH-U12P CPU fan so I would like a board good enough to reach my 4 gig goal. If you think its a bad idea feel free to tell me so, I probably shouldn't be spending the money anyway but I kind of want to upgrade :lol
 
Yes it is a good idea. Asus and Gigabyte motherboards are the best build imo. I read one overclocking mag where they tested a few brands with voltage measuring equipment and they found other like MSI, EVGA, DFI losing out to Asus and Gigabyte in supplying stable power.
 
JudgeN said:
PC GAF need your opinion on if I'm being a dumbass.

Now that I have a 5850, after doing some benchmarks I'm getting the feeling that my old girl Q6600 is holding it back a little bit. QQ6600 about 2 1/2 years old so maybe its about time to replace her.
l

Do it, I went from a Q9550 to a i7 920 and the performance difference is huge. My OC'ed Q9550 at 4.25ghz scores about the same like my stock 920 but once I OC'ed the i7... Well the performance is just in another ballpark...

You'll really unleash that 5850 on an i7.

Went from 22k 3dmark06 to 27k with my good "old" GTX295.

(I'ld recommend the stuff Ami bought mobo and RAM -> http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=20564414&postcount=4969)
 
JudgeN said:
PC GAF need your opinion on if I'm being a dumbass.

Now that I have a 5850, after doing some benchmarks I'm getting the feeling that my old girl Q6600 is holding it back a little bit. Q6600 about 2 1/2 years old so maybe its about time to replace her.

Note: I upgraded to windows 7 Enterprise 64 bit recently and complete formatted my PC for optimum benchmarking results.

http://microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0331303

Microcenter is having a fanfuckingtastic deal on an i7 930, only problem is I live in Indianapolis and I would have to drive 1hour 1/2 to a microcenter in Ohio to pick it up. So my question is do you think this would be a worthwhile upgrade for me? If you do, can you recommend some good i7 motherboards and 6GB ramkits. The motherboard doesn't have to be for extreme overclocking but I read the 930 can easily hit 4+ gig on air and i'm using a NH-U12P CPU fan so I would like a board good enough to reach my 4 gig goal. If you think its a bad idea feel free to tell me so, I probably shouldn't be spending the money anyway but I kind of want to upgrade :lol

Clock that Q6600 to 3ghz+ and it won't hold any single GPU setup back at all. Its still a beast and once overclocked it can be a very decent match for a stock i5-750 or Phenom ii 965.

I just upgraded to a Q6600 (running her @ 3.4ghz :D )!
 
koji said:
Do it, I went from a Q9550 to a i7 920 and the performance difference is huge. My OC'ed Q9550 at 4.25ghz scores about the same like my stock 920 but once I OC'ed the i7... Well the performance is just in another ballpark...

You'll really unleash that 5850 on an i7.

Went from 22k 3dmark06 to 27k with my good "old" GTX295.

3DMark06 is an incredibly shitty benchmark, its not in anyway representative of modern games. In what games was that Q9550 bottlenecking you anyway? GTA4!?

Fwiw: A GTX 295 is much faster than a 5850 as well in terms of raw framerates.
 
brain_stew said:
3DMark06 is an incredibly shitty benchmark, its not in anyway representative of modern games. In what games was that Q9550 bottlenecking you anyway? GTA4!?

Fwiw: A GTX 295 is much faster than a 5850 as well in terms of raw framerates.


Yeah I was pretty surprised by the performance difference myself. Never thought it would be this big. The Q9550 wasn't bottlenecking me on anything really, they stopped production of the 920s and I really wanted one of those and not a 930, so I picked one up and installed it a couple of weeks ago.

And yes 3Dmark06 is a POS benchmark, but because it's so CPU bound it gives a good idea on the performance difference. (CPU performance)

Anyway, my GTX295 is running stock speeds now since I've got my 920 because I just don't need to squeeze out every frame I can get anymore.

Q9550 @ 4.25ghz
http://users.telenet.be/koji/OC/vantagephysxdisabled.JPG
i7 920 @ 4.2ghz
http://users.telenet.be/koji/OC/i7/23032vantagephysXdisabled.JPG
 
what do you guys clean thermal compound with? dry paper towel?

then how do you apply? fwiw im using a quad core and i don't know if i should do a blob or a line
 
Lkr said:
what do you guys clean thermal compound with? dry paper towel?

then how do you apply? fwiw im using a quad core and i don't know if i should do a blob or a line
I used the line method. Then planted the HSF right on top. My assumption is that it spread itself out. Seems to have done the trick well.
 
Lkr said:
what do you guys clean thermal compound with? dry paper towel?

then how do you apply? fwiw im using a quad core and i don't know if i should do a blob or a line


Use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to take it off. Put about a grain of rice sized line of paste across the cores. Just hold the processor like you are reading the writing on it and put a small line from right to left.
 
speculawyer said:
I NEED A NEW PC!

Where should I shop for online parts where I don't pay California sales tax? I have case, power supply, mouse, and hdd already . . . is it worth it for me to build?

Or should I just buy a pre-built system and add a nice graphics card? If so, where do I buy?

Anything Special I should due for HTPC usage?

Is there any reason to buy anything but the standard Home Windows 7?
Oh come on . . . no one wants to even give me a pointer as to a good etailer to buy from?
 
I built myself a new PC a couple months ago, GAF, but I can't seem to shake this problem I have. Almost every UE3 game likes to fuck with my video card (I have a 4850). Mass Effect 1 and 2 love to trigger VPU recover when I'm playing. Bioshock 1 wasn't too bothersome. In some cases, it's back-to-back (like three in a row at times) to the point where the driver stops working and I have to reboot to continue playing.

This is confusing because other games I have played for hours nonstop without a hitch. Any way to fix this? I've been trying drivers since like 9.8 and I'm on 10.2 now I think. Nothing has really worked...
 
Oh come on . . . no one wants to even give me a pointer as to a good etailer to buy from?

amazon, tigerdirect doesn't have CA tax and pre-built pcs usually come with a shitty PSU so adding a new gpu may require a new PSU , win 7 home version is fine.
 
twdnewh_k said:
Hey guys.

I'll be getting a new system soon and have almost finalised my choices, and am just looking for any opinions/ advice.

i7 920 - Im thinking OCing to around 3.0
XFX 5870 black edition - is it worth over the reg 5870 ?
Gigabyte x58 mobo
6gb of ram - do i need to go for any particular brands ?
2 x 500 gb HD
PSU (branded) - how much power should I be looking for considering the above components + slight CPU oc. Im thinking 800w, is that too much ?

Would I need any particular cooling solutions ? any heatsinks ? Im mostly likely looking at a coolmaster case.

Thanks a lot. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


No opinions ? :(
 
Yazus said:
All right. I built a PC for a friend of mine, then after a month the PC doesn't start.

Nothing happens, not even a green light on the mobo. I say, must be the PSU. No, change the PSU, hook up cables and nothing happens. Must be the Mobo then right? Sent it back, was on warranty. I hope they send it back new.

But the question is, am I doing right?


Imo yes. Judging from your explanation I'd also would have guessed PSU first and than mainboard second. Can't be anything else imo.
Just to make sure: the PC worked just fine for a month, right?
 
Smokey said:
Amirox's experience that he is going through is one that I'm fucking afraid of :/
Happens to most PC builders... just happens... it can be fixed though.

Honestly though PC building is 1/4 knowing what you're doing + 1/4 installing it correctly + 1/2 parts working correctly.

Still though, the payoff is more than worth the effort.
 
Amir0x said:
I don't plan to overclock anything so I'm sure it'll be fine.

Although, "it's not as daunting as it may initially seem" is probably not true... at least for me. Now shit won't start up and I can't figure out why, and troubleshooting is more daunting than building :(


It's better to have someone who has experience with building PC's actually on hand, GAF is a great resource but it can't replace someone who knows about this physically being there to help. Hope you get things sorted out. You could pop into a local PC repair shop and have them take a quick look over the build, probably would do it for free.
 
Smokey said:
Amirox's experience that he is going through is one that I'm fucking afraid of :/
My biggest worry is getting parts that arrive DOA and then I have real trouble figuring out what arrived broken, thats why I always try to budget 50$ for the putting together + testing that NCIX does. That way when it arrives I know that everything is working and I just have to install whatever it was that was missing. It's great cause you can order with a lot of stuff missing from your computer and they will use spare parts to make sure what you ordered is working, and then you don't have to spend time putting it together. They also do some great (in my experience) cable management.
 
Ok, need some help from the pc master race (didn't want to start a new thread). My computer is a couple of years old, and has slowly but surely forced me to lower my game settings closer to minimum to keep my fps up, as well as preventing my cooling system from vomiting over the cpu every time something more resource-heavy than a screensaver is running. I'm looking for a new setup, but my technical know-how extends only so far as knowing that lots of ram = usually never a bad thing.

I'm looking at two options, but I have no clue as to what all the XT-200VVMidsdsfsdjjkfs means.

My current rig:

CPU: INTEL(R) PENTIUM(R) 4, 3.00GHZ
System bios: NVIDIA, 1024MB memory
Ssystem memory: 2GB
Video: NVIDIA GeForce 7600 GT

What I'm looking at:

CPU: Intel Core™ i5 Quad Processor i5-750 Quad Core, 2.66Ghz, Socket 1156, 8MB, 95W, Boxed w/fan
Power supply: Corsair VX 550W PSU ATX 12V V2.2, 80 Plus, Standard, 1x 6pin, 1x 6+2-pin PCIe, 6x SATA, 120mm fan
Motherboard: MSI P55-CD53, P55, Socket-1156, DDR3 DDRIII, ATX, 1xPCI-Ex(2.0)x16, GbLan(Winki), OC Genie, DrMOS
DDR3 memory: Kingston ValueR. DDR3 1333MHz 4GB, CL9 Kit w/two matched ValueRAM 2GB DDR3
GFX: XFX Radeon HD 5770 1GB GDDR5 PCI-Express 2.0, 2xDVI-I, HDMI, DisplayPort, 850MHz

What is cheaper than option 1, and also comes with a screen (leading me into thinking that either the screen, or the computer itself, is a little too cheap):

CPU: AMD Athlon II X4 630 AM3 Quad Core, 2,8Ghz, 2MB, AM3, 95W, Boxed
Power supply: Silver Power SP-SS500 500W PSU ATX 12V V2.2, 80 Plus, Standard, 1x 6pin+1x 6+2pin PCIe, 6× SATA, 120mm fan
Motherboard: MSI 770-C45, Socket-AM3, DDR3 ATX, AMD770+SB710,4DDRIII,1PCI-E*16,2PCI-E*1,3PCI,6SATAII,GbLAN
DDR3 memory: Corsair Value S. DDR3 1333MHz 2GB CL9 Unbuffered, CL9-9-9-24, 240pin, 1.5V
GFX: XFX Radeon HD 5750 512MB GDDR5 PCI-Express 2.0, 2xDVI-I, HDMI, DisplayPort, 700MHz
Screen: BenQ 21,5" LCD T2210HD 1920 x 1080, 10000:1, 5ms, VGA/DVI

Essentially, I'm curious if either option would be an significant upgrade to what I'm currently using, and how "future proof" it would be.
 
Lkr said:
what direction should i apply a line of paste? vertical or horizontal?


Like I said in my other reply. Hold the processor like you are reading the lettering on it and put a horizontal line on it.


line800qe9.jpg
 
Dipper145 said:
My biggest worry is getting parts that arrive DOA and then I have real trouble figuring out what arrived broken.

This is my biggest problem!

Ok, here is a detailed summary of where I am at.

i still can't get the PC to start. I've run out of ideas. I checked the memory (and the LED on the motherboard - DDR Phase - is lit, telling me that it's probably in right anyway), I checked the CPU/CPU Cooler (can't secure it any better), the videocard is slotted right and connected to the two PCI-E six pin cables. Both Motherboard connectors are on (24-pin and 8-pin). Just...nothing comes on the screen, and no sound from the fans (or the CPU fan), and no indication anything is alive inside outside of the lights.

But, on the other side, the power light located on the motherboard is on when I plug the computer on and press power, and so is the DDR Phase LED

So that tells me the motherboard is probably not faulty, and that my power supply is working. And the DDR phase LED tells me my RAM is probably working too.

Outside of that, I'm completely out of ideas. I'll check the CMOS thing next.
 
Amir0x said:
This is my biggest problem!

Ok, here is a detailed summary of where I am at.

i still can't get the PC to start. I've run out of ideas. I checked the memory (and the LED on the motherboard - DDR Phase - is lit, telling me that it's probably in right anyway), I checked the CPU/CPU Cooler (can't secure it any better), the videocard is slotted right and connected to the two PCI-E six pin cables. Both Motherboard connectors are on (24-pin and 8-pin). Just...nothing comes on the screen, and no sound from the fans (or the CPU fan), and no indication anything is alive inside outside of the lights.

But, on the other side, the power light located on the motherboard is on when I plug the computer on and press power, and so is the DDR Phase LED

So that tells me the motherboard is probably not faulty, and that my power supply is working. And the DDR phase LED tells me my RAM is probably working too.

Outside of that, I'm completely out of ideas. I'll check the CMOS thing next.

I think the most relevant piece of information here is that there's no noise from the fans. Even with a completely dead cpu you should still be getting the fans spinning. I'd maybe take the whole motherboard out of the case, lay the case on its side and sit the motherboard on the foam thing that was in its box. Remove everything from the motherboard apart from the cpu and its fan. Connect just the power supply to the motherboard, and the power button wire from the case. You should have the cpu fan spinning at the very least.

You know, it sounds a bit like you don't have the power button wire connected to the right place, come to think of it. Is it seperate wires for all the parts (speaker, reset button, power button etc) or are they all connecting into the one plastic block?
 
brain_stew said:
Clock that Q6600 to 3ghz+ and it won't hold any single GPU setup back at all. Its still a beast and once overclocked it can be a very decent match for a stock i5-750 or Phenom ii 965.

I just upgraded to a Q6600 (running her @ 3.4ghz :D )!

Mines is clocked at 3.6 gig but I guess ill hold off, was really hoping it would gain me more frames in RFG and NWN2 (it could but probably not worth the $600 its going to cost for board+Ram+processor).
 
moojito said:
You know, it sounds a bit like you don't have the power button wire connected to the right place, come to think of it. Is it seperate wires for all the parts (speaker, reset button, power button etc) or are they all connecting into the one plastic block?

That's exactly what I'm thinking, especially when I look at the picture from the previous page.
 
Amir0x said:
This is my biggest problem!

Ok, here is a detailed summary of where I am at.

i still can't get the PC to start. I've run out of ideas. I checked the memory (and the LED on the motherboard - DDR Phase - is lit, telling me that it's probably in right anyway), I checked the CPU/CPU Cooler (can't secure it any better), the videocard is slotted right and connected to the two PCI-E six pin cables. Both Motherboard connectors are on (24-pin and 8-pin). Just...nothing comes on the screen, and no sound from the fans (or the CPU fan), and no indication anything is alive inside outside of the lights.

But, on the other side, the power light located on the motherboard is on when I plug the computer on and press power, and so is the DDR Phase LED

So that tells me the motherboard is probably not faulty, and that my power supply is working. And the DDR phase LED tells me my RAM is probably working too.

Outside of that, I'm completely out of ideas. I'll check the CMOS thing next.

Keep in mind that it could be that the PSU is bad but that some of the lines are getting voltage. In the past I've had the fans turn on but the PSU was still the problem. Of course that's the opposite of the problem you're having.

I think if your fans are not turning on it pretty much has to be either the MoBo or the PSU or your wiring/installation. Also make sure that nothing underneath your mobo is shorting it out.
 
Lkr said:
am i better off with too much or not enough paste? i'm not sure if i have enough or not

I used enough to create a small ball the size of a bb or so. Then I used a small rubber grout spreader to give it a nice even application over the entire CPU surface. I'd recommend using one if you have it. That worked like a charm.

Thanks to PC GAF my build last month went well. My only problem was the fact that my mobo didn't have a speaker for some reason, so when I first fired it up without a monitor, I was nervous I didn't hear a beep. By far, the most intimidating thing was installing the aftermarket CPU heatsink/fan.

One more question, PC GAF...I'm kind of itching to buy another 5770 for Crossfire. I did some reading and it seemed the benches were very close to a lone 5870, but net $60 or so cheaper. Should I or shouldn't I? FYI, I have a X4 955 BE OC'd to 3.675ghz.
 
moojito said:
I think the most relevant piece of information here is that there's no noise from the fans. Even with a completely dead cpu you should still be getting the fans spinning. I'd maybe take the whole motherboard out of the case, lay the case on its side and sit the motherboard on the foam thing that was in its box. Remove everything from the motherboard apart from the cpu and its fan. Connect just the power supply to the motherboard, and the power button wire from the case. You should have the cpu fan spinning at the very least.

moojito said:
You know, it sounds a bit like you don't have the power button wire connected to the right place, come to think of it. Is it seperate wires for all the parts (speaker, reset button, power button etc) or are they all connecting into the one plastic block?

It's separate and I'm pretty sure I have that right. The reason? When I plug the power supply in, the cmos light comes on in back (it's always lit when the plug is in, whether the power is pressed or not. The motherboard power light is also always lit when the plug is in). But when I press the power button, the DDR Phase LED comes on. So, that's an on/off state if I ever saw one.

Question:

If the DDR Phase LED comes on after the power switch is pressed, this indicates to me that the motherboard can't possibly be the problem. After all, how is the motherboard reading the memory load? Is this a safe assumption?
 
Amir0x said:
Question:

If the DDR Phase LED comes on after the power switch is pressed, this indicates to me that the motherboard can't possibly be the problem. After all, how is the motherboard reading the memory load? Is this a safe assumption?

I'd say it's certainly less likely your motherboard is the cause. I'd be more inclined to say it's the power supply. On the previous page you had a query about how your psu connections should be chained. What did you do end up doing?

I'd suggest again stripping it right down the bare minimum. PSU into motherboard cpu fan plugged into motherboard, power lead from case into motherboard.
 
Amir0x said:
It's separate and I'm pretty sure I have that right. The reason? When I plug the power supply in, the cmos light comes on in back (it's always lit when the plug is in, whether the power is pressed or not. The motherboard power light is also always lit when the plug is in). But when I press the power button, the DDR Phase LED comes on. So, that's an on/off state if I ever saw one.

Question:

If the DDR Phase LED comes on after the power switch is pressed, this indicates to me that the motherboard can't possibly be the problem. After all, how is the motherboard reading the memory load? Is this a safe assumption?


The Asus board that a few of us have has LED lights next to all critical components, when the light is on its an indicator that something isn't correct with the lighted area.

I hope your ram is seated properly and also in the right spots

I've just been told that if "if the cpu fans arent running its probably psu"

edit: I like how people are posting 50million unrelated "answers".
 
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