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"I need a new PC!" 2010 Edition

Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
So why would you get a 6 core amd? If it doesn't beat an i7, why would you buy it?

Well a 6-core amd doesn't seem to be beating a 4-core i7 clock for clock, but dollar for dollar it may be... we'll have to wait for real benches to see.

The non EE 6-core i7 is the i7 970. The $1000 one is the i7 980X.
 
mikespit1200 said:
If you have an older AM3 chip and you don't want to replace your Mobo/RAM mostly it's a pretty linear upgrade path. There's also an upcoming Bulldozer 6-core with a new architecture also on AM3 socket.

Ah, so the only real benefit is if you're going to upgrade it's an easy upgrade path? When are 6 core intels due out?

Edit: Also, what does ee mean for all of us simple folk?
 
Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
Ah, so the only real benefit is if you're going to upgrade it's an easy upgrade path? When are 6 core intels due out?

Edit: Also, what does ee mean for all of us simple folk?


Extreme Edition. Intel has a 6 core CPU out right now, but its like $1000 just for the chip. We are looking for a non-EE edition which should be priced significantly lower.
 
BravoSuperStar said:
Extreme Edition. Intel has a 6 core CPU out right now, but its like $1000 just for the chip. We are looking for a non-EE edition which should be priced significantly lower.

Bah, I feel stupid. I didn't match up EE with extreme edition, bah.
 
BravoSuperStar said:
Extreme Edition. Intel has a 6 core CPU out right now, but its like $1000 just for the chip. We are looking for a non-EE edition which should be priced significantly lower.

The link I posted said the 6-core, 12-threaded intel i7 is due out Q3 (imagine the win of seeing all those cores in your task manager)... but if you can easily overclock a 4-core i7 to be faster than 6-core amd speeds, I don't see the need to upgrade.
 
Minsc said:
The link I posted said the 6-core, 12-threaded intel i7 is due out Q3 (imagine the win of seeing all those cores in your task manager)... but if you can easily overclock a 4-core i7 to be faster than 6-core amd speeds, I don't see the need to upgrade.

To be honest I just want to be able to say I have a 6 core CPU before my friends....:D
 
Minsc said:
The link I posted said the 6-core, 12-threaded intel i7 is due out Q3 (imagine the win of seeing all those cores in your task manager)... but if you can easily overclock a 4-core i7 to be faster than 6-core amd speeds, I don't see the need to upgrade.
I agree, if the rig is going to be used primarily for gaming and the usual internet/homework/office stuff. But it is a worthwhile purchase if you are a heavy user of something like Photoshop and Sony Vegas Pro.

I intend to get the Intel 6-core Extreme Edition as the CPU for my next rig primarily due to this.

Not that 1000$ isn't a rip-off. It is, I admit.
 
IMACOMPUTA said:
Wow, that case is a Cooler Master Storm Scout ripoff! haha.
It looks pretty cool though! (i have a storm scout)
Nice price.
Though it was an Antec 900 ripoff :lol
 
Those of you who have a vertical monitor, which do you use? I currently have 2x Samsung T260HDs but I would like to put a vertical monitor between them for email and such. I don't need anything fancy, wont be gaming on it at all, etc.
 
I still have an ATI x1950 Pro in my computer. I haven't done much gaming, so it's been okay, but it's started spitting random green pixels onto my monitor. It's not the monitors or cables -- I have two screens connected, and they're both artifacting. I'm also getting some random graphical junk in Photoshop. Someone suggested that this might be a result of the card not getting enough power, and I DID add a third hard drive recently -- but I have a 500w power supply, and I'd assume that this is usually enough if I'm just doing photo editing.

So, I have a couple questions. First of all -- is it safe to assume the card is dead? The problem does seem to be getting worse. Secondly -- what's a good card to replace it with? I need some specialized advice here, since I mostly use Photoshop and After Effects, which rely heavily on OpenGL. Adobe's always shown a huge preference for nVidia cards, and a handful of features seem to only work on nVidia. I've only ever bought ATI cards, so I really have no idea what I'm looking for. I'm looking for something more on the budget end -- $200 would be nice. Any thoughts?
 
aasoncott said:
I still have an ATI x1950 Pro in my computer. I haven't done much gaming, so it's been okay, but it's started spitting random green pixels onto my monitor. It's not the monitors or cables -- I have two screens connected, and they're both artifacting. I'm also getting some random graphical junk in Photoshop. Someone suggested that this might be a result of the card not getting enough power, and I DID add a third hard drive recently -- but I have a 500w power supply, and I'd assume that this is usually enough if I'm just doing photo editing.

So, I have a couple questions. First of all -- is it safe to assume the card is dead? The problem does seem to be getting worse. Secondly -- what's a good card to replace it with? I need some specialized advice here, since I mostly use Photoshop and After Effects, which rely heavily on OpenGL. Adobe's always shown a huge preference for nVidia cards, and a handful of features seem to only work on nVidia. I've only ever bought ATI cards, so I really have no idea what I'm looking for. I'm looking for something more on the budget end -- $200 would be nice. Any thoughts?
Sounds similar to my current machine.

I have a small form factor (Shuttel XPC).. They only come with a stock 240w power supply. My system specs are Athlon 64 X2 6000+ 2GB of Ram 1 HD and a GeForce 7900GT.

The card itself already struggled in the whole power department as I always got an Nvidia warning at startup saying it was underpowering my card.. But it worked fine. Though lately it started giving me some stuck pixels that would move to other places on the screen if I scrolled my window around. Well I ordered a Radeon 5670 from NewEgg. Its better performing then my 7900 and uses a TON of less power. Now I don't have those issues and no more stuck pixels.

Honestly you may be having a power issue or your card just may be dying.
 
DennisK4 said:
I agree, if the rig is going to be used primarily for gaming and the usual internet/homework/office stuff. But it is a worthwhile purchase if you are a heavy user of something like Photoshop and Sony Vegas Pro.

I intend to get the Intel 6-core Extreme Edition as the CPU for my next rig primarily due to this.

Not that 1000$ isn't a rip-off. It is, I admit.

Why wouldn't you just get the i7 970 + $100 cooler, and overclock way past the i7 980X while saving like $400?

I doubt photoshop would merit the overhead, filters are fun to do quickly, but the vast majority of photoshop work I've seen / done is by hand, and it matter little if you have a 2 core CPU or 8 in that case.

It'd be a strange case where you'd want to spend an extra $600 to gain filters that operate a couple seconds quicker. But then again, if you've got the $2000 to buy the Creative Suite, you probably have a good 3 or $4000 to spend on a PC to run it.
 
My Current Build:

CPU: Pentium Dual Core E2160 1.8Ghz, OC'd to 2.9Ghz
MOBO: Gigabyte P35-DS3L
VID: Palit 8800GT 512MB OC
RAM: 2GB DDR2 800
PSU: Thermaltake 420W
The Rest: 2 dvd burners, 1 hdd

Though it hasn't failed me on any game yet, some newer ones I cannot put to max settings, even on my modest 1440x900 resolution, 19" screen (BF2BC and JC2 come to mind).

What would be my best upgrade path, GAF? Would going for a complete overhaul be best, or does my LGA775 setup still have some life in it?

Main uses: Games mentioned above, and would like to try my hand in PS2 / Wii Emulation. Modded GTAIV looks damn good too...

Budget: Probably $500-$600 CAD
 
Question/advice needed:

Threw together an I7 build with an Asus Mobo. Everything runs great except the CPU fan (aftermarket Coolermaster) was running really loud (like its running super fast).

I go into my Bios and the fan is running at around 3100RPM. It has three modes to change it to: Silent, Standard, and Turbo (it was on turbo). I changed it to standard and it is much quieter and running at 1800RPM.

So should I now worry about over heating? When I'm in the Bios I can see my CPU temp is 41.5C/106.5F. Is this ok? Anyway to check on the CPU temp while actually using the PC? Am I just worrying too much?
 
chixdiggit said:
Question/advice needed:

Threw together an I7 build with an Asus Mobo. Everything runs great except the CPU fan (aftermarket Coolermaster) was running really loud (like its running super fast).

I go into my Bios and the fan is running at around 3100RPM. It has three modes to change it to: Silent, Standard, and Turbo (it was on turbo). I changed it to standard and it is much quieter and running at 1800RPM.

So should I now worry about over heating? When I'm in the Bios I can see my CPU temp is 41.5C/106.5F. Is this ok? Anyway to check on the CPU temp while actually using the PC? Am I just worrying too much?

If its an Asus board you can download the Asus app called PC probe, it will give you temps, etc in windows.
 
Okay GAF, I'm starting my return to PC gaming after nearly ignoring it for the last 13 years. I bought an Alienware M11x and I just received it today.

I'd really like to play some of the Infinity Engine games since I really enjoyed Dragon Age and have been a huge BioWare fan since KOTOR. I know I'll have to buy an external DVD drive to load these games (BG 1+2, IWD 1+2, and Planescape), but can the games be run competely off my HDD? Or will the CDs/DVDs need to remain constantly connected via external drive in order for me to play them?

Also, will these games even run in Windows 7?

It's a shame these games aren't on GoG, Steam, etc. Thanks fir the help and I'm sorry if this is the wrong thread to ask about this issue!
 
chixdiggit said:
Question/advice needed:

Threw together an I7 build with an Asus Mobo. Everything runs great except the CPU fan (aftermarket Coolermaster) was running really loud (like its running super fast).

I go into my Bios and the fan is running at around 3100RPM. It has three modes to change it to: Silent, Standard, and Turbo (it was on turbo). I changed it to standard and it is much quieter and running at 1800RPM.

So should I now worry about over heating? When I'm in the Bios I can see my CPU temp is 41.5C/106.5F. Is this ok? Anyway to check on the CPU temp while actually using the PC? Am I just worrying too much?

Well, thing about PMW or Asus Qfan function, it's the variable fan speed. So when you need more airflow, it will spin faster.

41.5c, albeit little high (i take it for idle temp), I don't see anything wrong with it though. You might search around a bit and compare to similar set-ups on the internet. (read various reviews, etc)

I usually go with Speed Fan to roughly figure out my temps. My i7 930 at stock, with Corsair H50 cooler at silent (IIRC) runs around 29c idle, 45 load. If you think your temp is too high - try re-apply thermal grease and reseat the heatsink if you can.
 
Reluctant-Hero said:
Okay GAF, I'm starting my return to PC gaming after nearly ignoring it for the last 13 years. I bought an Alienware M11x and I just received it today.

I'd really like to play some of the Infinity Engine games since I really enjoyed Dragon Age and have been a huge BioWare fan since KOTOR. I know I'll have to buy an external DVD drive to load these games (BG 1+2, IWD 1+2, and Planescape), but can the games be run competely off my HDD? Or will the CDs/DVDs need to remain constantly connected via external drive in order for me to play them?

Also, will these games even run in Windows 7?

It's a shame these games aren't on GoG, Steam, etc. Thanks fir the help and I'm sorry if this is the wrong thread to ask about this issue!

For most games, you should be able to search Google to find a no-cd/dvd crack. Generally these things are used for pirates who download the game but if you've got a legit disc I don't see the harm in using a no-dvd crack.
 
Orellio said:
For most games, you should be able to search Google to find a no-cd/dvd crack. Generally these things are used for pirates who download the game but if you've got a legit disc I don't see the harm in using a no-dvd crack.
Thanks for the tip. And yes, I'm buying the legit retail versions. Thankfully they're all easily obtainable on Amazon!

But about Windows 7? Am I good to go with running these games on the platform?
 
The games you mentioned should all run without a problem on Windows 7. It's harder to find games that don't work with W7 than those that do, and even for those you can usually get them to work.
 
Just wanted to say that with my intel g2 x-25m, I've gotten consistently higher benchmark numbers with ahci over IDE. Also, I talked to intels tech support and they told me that trim is only supported in ahci mode.
 
BravoSuperStar said:
If its an Asus board you can download the Asus app called PC probe, it will give you temps, etc in windows.

Thanks. Downloaded and running fine.

Also thanks @ Lachesis. Looks like I'm running fine under a load.
 
Shambles said:
I'm trying to remember how it went for me the brief period I tried it until I realized that my HT receiver distorted the video over HDMI horrible on a non 1080P signal. I used the adapter that came with the card and it only worked in one of the two DVI ports. It should be working for you, do you have any other HDMI devices going through your receiver that are sending 5.1 PCM without a problem?

Edit: Download and install the ATI HDMI Audio Device. For some reason they don't include the audio driver as part of the normal catalyst package.

Yeah I have already tried that and much more without any luck.

I have nothing else using 5.1 over HDMI as my other consoles have an optical out port.

I have read that this problem is pretty common with Windows 7, and that it might be a problem with handshaking, etc. but I am not sure how true that is.

The only other thing I can think of is that my tv isn't able to properly push the audio out to my receiver. It is an older(3 yr old Bravia) tv, but I'm not really sure about it's capabilities with things like this.

I am thinking of just getting a sound card with an optical out. I can't stand going back to 2 channel fake surround when everything else about my PC is so damn awesome. :(
 
lachesis said:
Well, thing about PMW or Asus Qfan function, it's the variable fan speed. So when you need more airflow, it will spin faster.

41.5c, albeit little high (i take it for idle temp), I don't see anything wrong with it though. You might search around a bit and compare to similar set-ups on the internet. (read various reviews, etc)

I usually go with Speed Fan to roughly figure out my temps. My i7 930 at stock, with Corsair H50 cooler at silent (IIRC) runs around 29c idle, 45 load. If you think your temp is too high - try re-apply thermal grease and reseat the heatsink if you can.

Are you certain that's 45 at 100% load (all 8 cores?) Impressive! Though that is not overclocked, you'd see a good 10C+ increase to both idle and load for overclocking around an additional 1Ghz.

42C is fine for idle, I don't think it's the least bit high. As long as the 100% load temperature is around 80C you'll be fine. The i7s are rated to run at 80C 24/7/365.

You can just use RealTemp instead of that Asus Probe thingy, I'd recommend it over almost anything.
 
Minsc said:
Are you certain that's 45 at 100% load (all 8 cores?) Impressive! Though that is not overclocked, you'd see a good 10C+ increase to both idle and load for overclocking around an additional 1Ghz.

42C is fine for idle, I don't think it's the least bit high. As long as the 100% load temperature is around 80C you'll be fine. The i7s are rated to run at 80C 24/7/365.

You can just use RealTemp instead of that Asus Probe thingy, I'd recommend it over almost anything.

Well to be honest, I don't really pay too much attention to the core temps... i could be wrong, and probably ambient temp is also playing a role here. (it was a pretty damn cold day when I did the test for a while.)

I'm running it now just to be sure... and it seems it's actually hovering near 60c, according to speed fan, running prime. each core seems to be about 50-58c, and cpu tem is about 60c. So I was wrong (again!)
 
lachesis said:
Well to be honest, I don't really pay too much attention to the core temps... i could be wrong, and probably ambient temp is also playing a role here. (it was a pretty damn cold day when I did the test for a while.)

I'm running it now just to be sure... and it seems it's actually hovering near 60c, according to speed fan, running prime. each core seems to be about 50-58c, and cpu tem is about 60c. So I was wrong (again!)

Yea, I'm pretty shocked how much ambient room temperature has on CPU temps. In the dead of winter and before overclocking my CPU was in the upper 20s idle as well, but now that I'm seeing the indoor temperature around 70F, instead of 60F, that's carrying over to CPU increases too, and I'm getting in the upper 30s idle (and with a small overclock).

Fair warning for anything with a hot system or buying a Fermi, keep an eye on your temps this summer! Or if you have auto-fans, make sure they're rev'ing up high enough!

BudokaiMR2 said:
Yeah I have already tried that and much more without any luck.

I have nothing else using 5.1 over HDMI as my other consoles have an optical out port.

I have read that this problem is pretty common with Windows 7, and that it might be a problem with handshaking, etc. but I am not sure how true that is.

The only other thing I can think of is that my tv isn't able to properly push the audio out to my receiver. It is an older(3 yr old Bravia) tv, but I'm not really sure about it's capabilities with things like this.

I am thinking of just getting a sound card with an optical out. I can't stand going back to 2 channel fake surround when everything else about my PC is so damn awesome. :(

Too bad there's no way for you to borrow a 5000 series ATi card, they're a bit more advanced at sending audio over HDMI, be worth testing, as any money you put in to a soundcard could be actually used in a meaningful upgrade instead if it fixed your issue.
 
Minsc said:
Yea, I'm pretty shocked how much ambient room temperature has on CPU temps. In the dead of winter and before overclocking my CPU was in the upper 20s idle as well, but now that I'm seeing the indoor temperature around 70F, instead of 60F, that's carrying over to CPU increases too, and I'm getting in the upper 30s idle (and with a small overclock).

Fair warning for anything with a hot system or buying a Fermi, keep an eye on your temps this summer! Or if you have auto-fans, make sure they're rev'ing up high enough!

Looks like my temp reading from Real Temp (first time trying out) and Speed Fan are quite a bit different from get go. Kinda confused. Real Temp is reading about 10 degrees higher than Speed Fan's reading... I could turn the fan up a bit and will probably drop the temps even further - but one of the reason I went for the H50 and Akasa Apache Black was due to the noise level, which I can barely hear at the moment, and 4 of them are running now - all controlled by PMW preset in my Asus bios. (P6x58D Premium).

I was thinking about getting a fermi 470 actually... ;) All for the CS5 Premier's Mercury Playback Engine (although it's not an officially supported card, but my guess is with 480, it would be supported soon)... or a 285.

As per the temp for my GPU.. I"m running 8800 GTS g92, and it idles around 65 degrees, and at load it runs around 80 degrees, if I'm not mistaken. Due to the noise issue, I reverted back to the initial setting with Riva Tuner.

Well, all comes to worst, I guess creating separate oc profile for the task I'll be doing is in order. :) OC for rendering/working, and non-oc for just playing around...
 
TurtleSnatcher said:
When do Phenom II X6's come out in the US?

Maybe Ill go for that when I build my rig next month.

April 27th.


This is another user (this time in english) with just a 1055T. His Biostar 890GX has some issues with voltage getting the right values.

*1055T has a slower HT frequency (2000Mhz vs 2400Mhz on 1090T).

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=249434


The real deal is that you don't need a $200-250+ mobo like x58. 790GX/890GX ($100-140) are enough monsters to overclock this chips.

That difference could be used in a CF combo or even some Liquid Cooling (Corsair Hydro H50) and a better gpu.











Six core 970 should cost like $600-700 (knowing intel) and at least in september.
 
Minsc said:
Yea, I'm pretty shocked how much ambient room temperature has on CPU temps. In the dead of winter and before overclocking my CPU was in the upper 20s idle as well, but now that I'm seeing the indoor temperature around 70F, instead of 60F, that's carrying over to CPU increases too, and I'm getting in the upper 30s idle (and with a small overclock).

Fair warning for anything with a hot system or buying a Fermi, keep an eye on your temps this summer! Or if you have auto-fans, make sure they're rev'ing up high enough!



Too bad there's no way for you to borrow a 5000 series ATi card, they're a bit more advanced at sending audio over HDMI, be worth testing, as any money you put in to a soundcard could be actually used in a meaningful upgrade instead if it fixed your issue.

Yeah I am still going to try to do a fresh install of drivers one more time and keep researching but it doesn't look too good. Google searches just seem to come up a ton of people with the same problem and no solution reached.
 
NorrenRadd said:
Those of you who have a vertical monitor, which do you use? I currently have 2x Samsung T260HDs but I would like to put a vertical monitor between them for email and such. I don't need anything fancy, wont be gaming on it at all, etc.


I use a hpl2045. I'm pretty happy with it.
 
Firestorm said:
The last two links say the items aren't available anymore. What were they? I'd really like to know because the price seems fair and I'm really, really wanting to make the plunge into PC gaming, but since I'm a console gamer and suck with computers...all this is just so overwhelming. I'm glad there was something like this on the first page, though--thanks!

Would this computer play L4D2 just fine? I mainly want a gaming PC for that and ease in to other games after that. These are the requirements All that is pretty much alien to me, so help would be appreciated D:

Also, stupid question: if some games need so much GB of HD space, does that limit the amount of games you can have or something? Like, do you have to uninstall one to play another if you don't have sufficient space or something? Like I said, stupid question, but I honestly have no idea. It just makes me think some people have endless amounts of GB from their games list.
 
BudokaiMR2 said:
Yeah I am still going to try to do a fresh install of drivers one more time and keep researching but it doesn't look too good. Google searches just seem to come up a ton of people with the same problem and no solution reached.

I read your posts a few back so excuse me if I'm not following 100%. Your problem seems to be that you are trying to run HDMI and Uncompressed audio at the same time. Try playing a DVD (it has compressed audio) and see if it pops up as 5.1.

The only way to do this without buying one of the very few compatible sound cards is to run the audio analog to your receiver. Lots of cables but it works.

Edit: check this link http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/how_to_connect_your_pc_your_surroundsound_audio_system
 
Lkr said:
AMD is giving real heatsinks now? Will their 6 cores chips work on a 785G?

Isn't that the same crap I have shoved in my closet that came with my 965 C3?

As for compatibility, I believe it will work on all DDR3 AM3 boards. (not sure about DDR2)
 
So, I just bought a new motherboard(P5Q-VM) and whenever I install the 10.3 catalyst drivers for my 5850, and then restart, windows gives em a bsod. I tried different driver versions, and I dont know what the problem is.
 
Ive just purchased a ssd which i intend to use for windows 7 and keep my existing hard drive for games and other apps. If i do a fresh install onto the ssd how do i set it as the drive i boot from and can i also just delete the windows files from old hard drive or should i just format the old one.
 
captain wow said:
Ive just purchased a ssd which i intend to use for windows 7 and keep my existing hard drive for games and other apps. If i do a fresh install onto the ssd how do i set it as the drive i boot from and can i also just delete the windows files from old hard drive or should i just format the old one.
It's as simple as booting off your Win7 media, installing your fresh copy to the SSD, and then booting off of that SSD in the BIOS. Only issue is that if Win7's installer is insisting that your hard drive be C: and the SSD something else, you can disconnect it (or just disable it in the BIOS if need be) while you install 7, then reconnect/enable it after the install's done.

You don't have to format your hard drive with your old Windows on it, but if I recall correctly, Win7 won't let you delete the files, even if it's actually D: or E: or whatever. So if you are looking for something nice and clean, you'll need to backup the files on that drive, format it, then put whatever you want back on.

Reluctant-Hero said:
But about Windows 7? Am I good to go with running these games on the platform?
In a word, yes.
 
chixdiggit said:
I read your posts a few back so excuse me if I'm not following 100%. Your problem seems to be that you are trying to run HDMI and Uncompressed audio at the same time. Try playing a DVD (it has compressed audio) and see if it pops up as 5.1.

The only way to do this without buying one of the very few compatible sound cards is to run the audio analog to your receiver. Lots of cables but it works.

Edit: check this link http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/how_to_connect_your_pc_your_surroundsound_audio_system

The main problem is just simply that my PC is not recognizing that it is hooked up to a 5.1 system. I get no option anywhere for anything besides 2 channel.

The more I read the more I am thinking that my TV just isn't capable of pushing any dolby or 5.1 signal out to my receiver. It is a bit of an older tv, and now that I think back I think I even had a problem getting 5.1 through a PS3 ----HDMI---->TV-----Optical----->Receiver connection. I always thought that I was just doing something wrong in the settings, and just hooked it up directly through optical after a little bit of fiddling.

But now that this has happened, I am starting to wonder if the TV is the real culprit.
 
BudokaiMR2 said:
The main problem is just simply that my PC is not recognizing that it is hooked up to a 5.1 system. I get no option anywhere for anything besides 2 channel.

The more I read the more I am thinking that my TV just isn't capable of pushing any dolby or 5.1 signal out to my receiver. It is a bit of an older tv, and now that I think back I think I even had a problem getting 5.1 through a PS3 ----HDMI---->TV-----Optical----->Receiver connection. I always thought that I was just doing something wrong in the settings, and just hooked it up directly through optical after a little bit of fiddling.

But now that this has happened, I am starting to wonder if the TV is the real culprit.

It is almost surely your television. There are almost no televisions out there that will pass the 5.1 audio to the receiver. You need to direct the output from your PC directly to your receiver.
 
I've just upgraded my new Pc and i seem to have some problems. It's taking too long to boot up. Any help please?

My Setup
AMD Phenom II x4 965
Asus M4A785TD-V EVO
500Gb harddisk SATA
4GB corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600Mhz
 
Adamska23 said:
I've just upgraded my new Pc and i seem to have some problems. It's taking too long to boot up. Any help please?

My Setup
AMD Phenom II x4 965
Asus M4A785TD-V EVO
500Gb harddisk SATA
4GB corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600Mhz
Need some more info here, is there any specific point during boot where it seems to take too long?
 
New Tech Report system guide!

At the low end, our Econobox has now drifted closer to our $500 target price, and we've started to recommend a more enthusiast-friendly enclosure in the alternatives. The $850 Utility Player has gained a new motherboard with more ports, connectors, and other little perks than before, as well. At the high end, our Double-Stuff Workstation now has a hexa-core processor almost fast enough to become sentient and start building man-killing humanoid robots.

To keep things even spicier, we've thrown together a completely new configuration: a microATX system that favors not low power and low cost, but a mix of strong performance and low noise levels. That build includes a Core i5-750, a Radeon HD 5770, a 1TB hard drive, and some very quiet cooling options, all for about the same price as the Utility Player. Keep reading for all the details.
 
Adamska23 said:
Once u switch on a black screen comes up with an underscore blinking. Also when it's checking for devices
Go into the BIOS screen and look for an option for quick boot or diagnostic level. Either turn down the level of self diagnostic or make sure quick boot is enabled.
 
Minsc said:
Why wouldn't you just get the i7 970 + $100 cooler, and overclock way past the i7 980X while saving like $400?

I doubt photoshop would merit the overhead, filters are fun to do quickly, but the vast majority of photoshop work I've seen / done is by hand, and it matter little if you have a 2 core CPU or 8 in that case.

It'd be a strange case where you'd want to spend an extra $600 to gain filters that operate a couple seconds quicker. But then again, if you've got the $2000 to buy the Creative Suite, you probably have a good 3 or $4000 to spend on a PC to run it.
Because some of us use our PC for things other than gaming and for these things there is no better CPU at the moment. In that context, saving 400$ is a non-issue. I dont mean that in a condescending way, simply that in the end all the time saved would easily be worth the 400$ if cost was an issue.

AnandTech said:
It's got 6 cores, 12 threads and it's good. Meet Intel's Core i7 980X, the first Gulftown CPU. If you've got the money, there's nothing better.

AnandTech said:
Even taking into account price, if you do any significant amount of compute intensive 3D work, video encoding or Excel modeling, the Core i7 980X is worth it.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/2960


Tom's Hardware said:
At the same $999 price point, picking the 980X over the 975 is a no-brainer. Time is money. If the time Core i7-980X will shave off your renders, encode jobs, or CAD projects is worth the processor’s asking price, this is the fastest desktop processor money can buy.
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/core-i7-980x-gulftown,review-31832.html
 
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