Nope!JAD0109 said:So if I swap out the HDD, then my system is complete? I don't need to add anything else (aside from a SSD which will come later) or change anything else?
Nope!JAD0109 said:So if I swap out the HDD, then my system is complete? I don't need to add anything else (aside from a SSD which will come later) or change anything else?
Revenant said:http://www.bestbuy.com/site/HP+-+25...40&skuId=1861285&st=25 inch monitor&cp=1&lp=2
I was thinking of purchasing this monitor. It's just straight LCD but would LED even be worth it?
Revenant said:http://www.bestbuy.com/site/HP+-+25...40&skuId=1861285&st=25 inch monitor&cp=1&lp=2
I was thinking of purchasing this monitor. It's just straight LCD but would LED even be worth it?
metsallica said:Anyone have a Dell U2410 in this thread? I can get one for $479. Worth it? Want a nice ~1080p monitor to watch Blu-Rays and game on, been lusting after one for ages.
Also, I've asked this a few times without a response: I bought a HT | Omega Claro but am feeling some buyers remorse. Sound output is very low and were I running Windows 95 the interface would be fantastic. Does a sound card that is compatible with the latest gaming and Blu-Ray standards exist? Should I have gone Xonar, X-Fi? I intend to play a ton of games I missed over the past 5+ years on it too, so compatibility is important as well.
The ram I was looking at on newegg was 57 bucks for 4 and 28$ for 2gigsithorien said:While the minimum requirements could be met just by purchasing 512mb more ram, I think buying anything, especially 4GB of DDR would be a waste. 512 would run you about $20, while 4GB would be about $120 (~$30/GB). Old ram is really expensive and I honestly would just save it towards a new PC.
StreetDisciple said:I desperately need a laptop. I was looking at the deals on Dells that include a 360 bundled in. Are those good deals? I really hadn't planned on spending over 750$ for a laptop and to be honest i can do without a 360. I just saw that and wondered If I can do better.
Thanks
MMaRsu said:Okay someone please reccomend me a good gaming pc, something I can build out later with some more RAM and other good stuff.
My budget is around 600 euro´s I guess, maybe a little more depending on how much money I get this month.
I guess I need to start fresh, and I´m looking to play some good pc exclusives like The Witcher 2 .
I can't put it together myself, but I can let Mycom store do it.
Don't need a monitor since I'll hook it up to my HDTV..gaming from my couch .
Eltacoman said:So my friend gave me a sort of frankenstein PC, I'm still trying to figure out all that is in it. I have a general idea of the power, but would like to know which items I should keep in it and how to improve it. Here's the specs I can find.
Your Current Specs: CPU:AMD Phenom II X4 995/ RAM: DDR3 4096 MBytes / Motherboard: ASUS M4A77TD PRO / GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTS 250
Budget: $1000, USA
Main Use: Heavy Gaming, Word, 1080p playback
Monitor Resolution: 1920 x 1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Starcraft II, Withcer II, Battlefield 3, Skyrim all at highest settings
Are reusing any parts?: I'll reuse parts if I don't have to buy any new ones. I will probably keep my case and monitor, and hopefully my AMD will suffice. I need a new PSU for sure though.
When will you build?: I'll be building as soon as possible.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, I need to learn more about it though.
You can use all the connectors.Beaner said:So I'm building my new pc now and I have a question about power cables. I have a 1000W power supply, two hard drives, and two disk drives. There are only 2 SATA power cables, but each ones has 3 connectors evenly spaced along it's length. Am I allowed to use two of these connectors per cable or am I out of luck?
SRG01 said:As it was suggested to me a few pages ago, you'll have limited benefits using the X4 over even the low end i3 processors.
Eltacoman said:So my friend gave me a sort of frankenstein PC, I'm still trying to figure out all that is in it. I have a general idea of the power, but would like to know which items I should keep in it and how to improve it. Here's the specs I can find.
Your Current Specs: CPU:AMD Phenom II X4 995/ RAM: DDR3 4096 MBytes / Motherboard: ASUS M4A77TD PRO / GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTS 250
Budget: $1000, USA
Main Use: Heavy Gaming, Word, 1080p playback
Monitor Resolution: 1920 x 1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Starcraft II, Withcer II, Battlefield 3, Skyrim all at highest settings
Are reusing any parts?: I'll reuse parts if I don't have to buy any new ones. I will probably keep my case and monitor, and hopefully my AMD will suffice. I need a new PSU for sure though.
When will you build?: I'll be building as soon as possible.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, I need to learn more about it though.
How did you deduce that out of what he just said?Eltacoman said:So, basically just get the 1000 build? All new parts as well?
AS5's reign has come and gone. Also $12 is hilarious. The paste that comes with the CM 212 is great.JAD0109 said:I'd like to get this figured out and ordered as soon as possible. I'm very confident I'll be able to put it together without issue, so all I need is for you guys to give me the green light on it or tell me where I went wrong.
Thanks for reading/helping out.
Just drop money on the 2GB. A new install alone will do wonders.Jtwo said:The ram I was looking at on newegg was 57 bucks for 4 and 28$ for 2gigs
OP build + 2500K and the P67 board. I think that works out with currency conversion...MMaRsu said:Okay someone please reccomend me a good gaming pc, something I can build out later with some more RAM and other good stuff.
My budget is around 600 euro´s I guess, maybe a little more depending on how much money I get this month.
I guess I need to start fresh, and I´m looking to play some good pc exclusives like The Witcher 2 .
I can't put it together myself, but I can let Mycom store do it.
Don't need a monitor since I'll hook it up to my HDTV..gaming from my couch .
Hmm.Eltacoman said:So my friend gave me a sort of frankenstein PC, I'm still trying to figure out all that is in it. I have a general idea of the power, but would like to know which items I should keep in it and how to improve it. Here's the specs I can find.
Your Current Specs: CPU:AMD Phenom II X4 995/ RAM: DDR3 4096 MBytes / Motherboard: ASUS M4A77TD PRO / GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTS 250
Budget: $1000, USA
Main Use: Heavy Gaming, Word, 1080p playback
Monitor Resolution: 1920 x 1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Starcraft II, Withcer II, Battlefield 3, Skyrim all at highest settings
Are reusing any parts?: I'll reuse parts if I don't have to buy any new ones. I will probably keep my case and monitor, and hopefully my AMD will suffice. I need a new PSU for sure though.
When will you build?: I'll be building as soon as possible.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, I need to learn more about it though.
Card vs Card I'd take the MSI. But the 10yr warranty and eVGA support is too good too pass up imo. I'd take the eVGA.barnone said:Trying to decide between these two cards. One is much cheaper than the other, will there be much of a performance difference here (edit: because one is overclocked)?
MSI 570
EVGA 570 (cheaper, and big MIR)
Edit: What do you all think of this Tiger Direct Bundle? (May not use all of these parts..)
You want all 8 pins occupied. Don't try to force it in. Usually the cable is thin and is a 4+4 connection. Don't get it confused with the 6+2 that powers the PCI-E.Beaner said:Alright so now I'm trying to plug in the 8-pin ATX cable into the motherboard. Originally there were 4 pins exposed and 4 covered, and when I took the cover off I can see that the 4+4 connector I have only fits one of the 4-pin, the other 4-pin's contacts are all rounded and therefore won't fit. Is it okay to just use the one or do I need the 4+4 plugged in?
Hazaro said:Hmm.
Best value is to just throw in a 550W and new GPU. Clock that 995 to the moon.
If you don't think you will be satisfied with near max settings then I'd suggest you pawn it off and grab the OP build. The 995 is a great chip, but SC II, Witcher 2, BF3, and Skyrim should all have a pretty steep CPU requirement that will take everything you can throw at it. You can keep the RAM most likely, but the computer will be a much easier sell if it works.
Plus you get some extra longevity from your system in the upgrade path (supposedly) with Ivy Bridge.
Best part is that if you aren't happy with your performance you can always sell the computer after you try it!
SneakyStephan said:How did you deduce that out of what he just said?
That cpu is great for gaming, just stick a nice gpu in there for 300-350 dollars and you are done.
Put the 700 aside for another gpu upgrade in 2-3 years, or use it to pay your mortgage or buy a thousand snickers bars, anything but a useless cpu 'upgrade' if it's to game on.
AwesomeSauce said:That is a really nice PC you got for free actually. You can replace the gts 250 for a gtx 460 1gb or AMD equivalent and still be able run all PC games decently.
Don't spend a grand on a brand new PC when what you got for free is already really good, just get a new gpu and if needed a psu and you should be golden.
toasty_T said:Ended up with the Black Widow Ultimate because the store didn't have the regular one in stock. It feels like my fingers are having sex, my goodness.
The sound of the keys is orgasmic, everyone in the house better get used to it.
Going to ask what your CPU is again. There is no Phenom II 995. If it's a 955/965/970/975/980 then you probably don't need to upgrade, just OC with a good cooler.Eltacoman said:Haha, I just figured the rest of the parts would be outdated, but I guess I'm wrong! Thanks for the recommendation.
If you're looking at playing at max/near max settings at native res you will want a 500 series. 560Ti or 570 if possible. 580 may or may not fit in your case, and with other upgrades you might not have enough money left for it.Eltacoman said:So it's not worth getting a gtx 500 model?
Also, I have another question regarding performance. Every time I turn it on the computer makes an extremely loud fan noise, slowly building up til it sounds like the computer is going to explode then settles down. It doesn't even happen at heavy gaming sessions, even when it's just booting windows. Is that most likely because there isn't enough Watts in the current PSU?
TheExodu5 said:Get a 6950 (and unlock shaders) or GTX 570. They're about 50% faster than the GTX 460.
If you find that you're CPU limited at that point and you want more speed, you can decide what to do from there.
The CPU is still very capable...it might just have a bit more trouble pulling 60fps on Ultra in Starcraft 2, since the game only makes use of one thread and is quite CPU inefficient as a result. It might be completely fine with a decent overclock, though. If not, then you won't be more than just a few minor tweaks away from 60fps.
Eltacoman said:I don't want necessarily perfect gaming experience, I just want to be able to play on a high setting with a very good framerate. I'm looking up the 6950 on Amazon and there seems to be about 60 different kinds. Are there big differences?
TheExodu5 said:Some 6950s come with custom coolers. Others are stock models that can be modified to unlock additional shaders (essentially giving you nearly a 6970 for free).
chaosblade said:Going to ask what your CPU is again. There is no Phenom II 995. If it's a 955/965/970/975/980 then you probably don't need to upgrade, just OC with a good cooler.
If you mean a Phenom 9950, that's a different story. You'd benefit a lot even upgrading to an i3 2100.
If you're looking at playing at max/near max settings at native res you will want a 500 series. 560Ti or 570 if possible. 580 may or may not fit in your case, and with other upgrades you might not have enough money left for it.
And I'm pretty sure that noise is your GPU fan. Mine does that too. Odd, but it's never been a problem.
May as well go with the 6870 for $20 more.The Broken Ska Record said:
TheExodu5 said:When talking boot times, keep in mind that everything prior to the Windows loading screen cannot be improved by an SSD...that part of boot is what we call the POST screen, and it's completely motherboard dependent.
Also, when installing a new SSD, make sure that your BIOS sets the SATA ports to use AHCI instead of IDE, and make sure you're doing a fresh Windows install onto the drive.
I'm sad that some of you aren't terribly impressed with SSDs. Boot times should certainly be faster...but it's more than that. Go back to an HDD, and notice how it can often take 30-60 seconds after you get into Windows until you can actually use the system at all (outside of a fresh Windows install). Also, you'll notice that with an SSD, your system will stay just as responsive as it was after a fresh Windows installation.
Game load times are improved, but it's nothing overly dramatic. HDD loading is pretty good as it is.
A few games really benefit, however. World of Warcraft is the best example I can think of. If you go into Stormwind or Ogrimmar with an HDD, it can often take 10-15 seconds for all player characters to appear. With an SSD, it's literally instant.
Some apps greatly benefit from an SSD as well. Browsing is certainly much faster, for one. Steam and iTunes are also far more responsive on an SSD. Steam is annoyingly sluggish off an HDD, IMO.
I think you guys would be surprised at how sluggish your system will feel when going back to an HDD.
I put my old Intel 80GB SSD into a 5 year old laptop, and it's incredibly quick and snappy now. It boots up within 30 seconds, and everything is usable instantly upon boot up. I honestly could never go back to using an HDD in any of my systems. I never want to go back to:
Boot in 1 minute
Click on Firefox
*brrrrrrrrrrrrrr* *brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr*
Wait for 10 seconds while it loads
*brrrrrrrrrrrrr*
Use it in an unresponsive fashion while Windows is loading other startup programs for 20 seconds
*brrrrrrrrrrrrr*
Open Steam window
*brrrrrrrrrrrr*
Using an SSD is like driving a sports car instead of a bus. Sure, both will get you to your end destination in roughly the same time, but one is a far more enjoyable ride.
mr stroke said:maybe I am used to the SSD by now and its starting to feel normal...
I guess I was unrealistic in expecting iPad like quickness. How far off are we until SSD's respond like Flash memory?
Really? I don't many that are that much cheaper. Besides, I don't mind paying a little extra for 2-day shipping from Amazon Prime.chaosblade said:May as well go with the 6870 for $20 more.
For for the record you can get one cheaper than that. Newegg has several for $170 or less after rebate.
chaosblade said:Going to ask what your CPU is again. There is no Phenom II 995. If it's a 955/965/970/975/980 then you probably don't need to upgrade, just OC with a good cooler.
If you mean a Phenom 9950, that's a different story. You'd benefit a lot even upgrading to an i3 2100.
If you're looking at playing at max/near max settings at native res you will want a 500 series. 560Ti or 570 if possible. 580 may or may not fit in your case, and with other upgrades you might not have enough money left for it.
And I'm pretty sure that noise is your GPU fan. Mine does that too. Odd, but it's never been a problem.
Side note: This only works if you have yet to register your card with XFX. Sadly, I already have.The M.O.B said:If anybody has purchased an XFX AMD 6000 series graphic card they can get Dirt 3 for free.
http://xfxforce.com/en-us/Features/dirt3.aspx
It says only valid if purchased after June 8, but I bought my card 2 months ago and it still worked, just make sure you put any date after June 8 to make it work.
EDIT: They will also try to get you to sign up for multiple newsletter, make sure you uncheck the boxes for those.
JAD0109 said:Afternoon, gentlemen. Quite tired from a long night at work but I figured I'd post this before going to sleep.
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=17914166
snip
I'd like to get this figured out and ordered as soon as possible. I'm very confident I'll be able to put it together without issue, so all I need is for you guys to give me the green light on it or tell me where I went wrong.
snip
Thanks for reading/helping out.
JAD0109 said:Had two suggestions to bump up to a 2600k, so that's done. Anyone have any other thoughts for me?
The extra frames he'll get from the GPU won't matter so much when his FPS plummets from recording while BF3 eats his CPU cycles. imoRS4- said:Switch to a 2500k and get a GTX580 instead? You can get a 580 for the 2500-2600k difference or another $50 for other 580 brands.
The F4 and F3 are similar in read/write because the 2TB drive has denser platters which allow about the same rate of data as to the faster 1TB.barnone said:I'm curious as to why you recommend a 5400rpm drive instead of a 7200rpm drive in the OP $1000 build?
Edit: Also, can a 600w PSU handle a single GTX 570 and allow me to comfortably overclock my 2500k?
Off-topic question: If a GPU required, say, 300w, does that leave 300w available for the rest of the system? Just curious if that's how things work =)
...no. CPU's have thermal shutoff points today and a stock heatsink is fine.Liquid_015 said:Hey PC-GAF,
This might be an extremely stupid question, but I am going to ask it anyways:
I currently have a stock AMD heatsink (Phenom x4 965 BE), and my friend who took a peek at my computer said the heatsink might fry my computer when I play games on my PC. My question is will the AMD stock heatsink be sufficient? The thing is that I will not be playing games all that often but I will be playing Assassin's Creed Brohood.
It is searching for a hard drive on the extra SATA controller (The extra colored ports). You can disable it in the BIOS options if you like.Beaner said:Booted up the computer and it started the first time. Thanks for all your help guys, wouldn't have been able to do it without you. Only took 5 hours but it seems worth it so far (have windows installing to the SSD)
One weird thing however. Whenever the bios is doing it's thing, it says no hard disk detected but then boots into windows fine (in seconds!) is this normal or bad?
RS4- said:Switch to a 2500k and get a GTX580 instead? You can get a 580 for the 2500-2600k difference or another $50 for other 580 brands.