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[n0n44m]

Alright! I will test once I finish downloading the file. And hypothetically speaking, if the stress test reads a temperature above 60 Celsius. Is it a bad thing? What can I do to decrease the temperature? Something I did wrong with installation?

yeah Athlon II & Phenom II have a max temp of 60~62 if I remember correctly, so that would be bad

so if you would go over it on stock cpu settings (nothing overclocked) then the heatsink is probably incorrectly installed

---

start prime95.exe , it asks if you want to do a torture test with the choice of either Small FFT, something else, blend and custom -> choose Small, make sure it uses 4 threads

now let it run and in the meantime open up whatever software you use for temperature checking

simple right

 

[Arsenic]

Great deal on Crucial C300 64gb going on right now at newegg

http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-20-148-357-_-06142011_2
$90

 

[SRG01]

What PSU should I get to comfortably run a mildly OCed i3, a few SATA drives, and a 5850/5830? 430W? 500W?

 

[Liquid_015]

yeah Athlon II & Phenom II have a max temp of 60~62 if I remember correctly, so that would be bad

so if you would go over it on stock cpu settings (nothing overclocked) then the heatsink is probably incorrectly installed

---

start prime95.exe , it asks if you want to do a torture test with the choice of either Small FFT, something else, blend and custom -> choose Small, make sure it uses 4 threads

now let it run and in the meantime open up whatever software you use for temperature checking

simple right

Aight I will do it correctly when I wake up tomorrow morning. So I would assume that there is something wrong with the installation because i had installed all the parts correctly and I let my friend double check my work (who does this for a living for quite awhile). However, he said I installed the CPU incorrectly which made no sense and so he took out my CPU and the stock AMD phenom II X4 stock heatsink with pre applied thermal paste on the heatsink, and reinstalled my CPU. I asked if I should reapply the thermal paste but he said that there is no need because the thermal paste provided by AMD is very good and that there isn't a point to apply a whole lot. So now, would that be the source of my problem?

Sorry, I'm typing this on my iPad at the moment. Thanks!

 

[Syphon Filter]

Anyone ever ordered from steelseries? My order said shipped for about 3 days now ,should i be worried?

 

[black_vegeta]

This looks nice. I would prefer a monitor without speakers. The main reason I was getting LED is because I thought maybe it would be better for my eyes. I have a 22 inch LCD now with 1680 max res. I thought maybe the LED would be better but from what I'm reading the colors are trash. Isn't LCD going to be phased out? I guess if you want LED you have to go high end.

You don't have to use the monitor speakers, you can still connect some higher end speakers to the onboard audio or audio card. You won't be disappointed. ;-)

 

[n0n44m]

Aight I will do it correctly when I wake up tomorrow morning. So I would assume that there is something wrong with the installation because i had installed all the parts correctly and I let my friend double check my work (who does this for a living for quite awhile). However, he said I installed the CPU incorrectly which made no sense and so he took out my CPU and the stock AMD phenom II X4 stock heatsink with pre applied thermal paste on the heatsink, and reinstalled my CPU. I asked if I should reapply the thermal paste but he said that there is no need because the thermal paste provided by AMD is very good and that there isn't a point to apply a whole lot. So now, would that be the source of my problem?

Sorry, I'm typing this on my iPad at the moment. Thanks!

well I'd say that if the pc works it will likely not be a problem, if it is really incorrectly installed it won't even boot in most cases

however you'll see better temperatures if you clean up the cpu and heatsink and put some aftermarket thermal paste in between, but as long as you're currently below 60c that will not make any difference to performance or longevity etc

but what problem do you have exactly ? -> [So now, would that be the source of my problem?]

 

[AwesomeSauce]

Aight I will do it correctly when I wake up tomorrow morning. So I would assume that there is something wrong with the installation because i had installed all the parts correctly and I let my friend double check my work (who does this for a living for quite awhile). However, he said I installed the CPU incorrectly which made no sense and so he took out my CPU and the stock AMD phenom II X4 stock heatsink with pre applied thermal paste on the heatsink, and reinstalled my CPU. I asked if I should reapply the thermal paste but he said that there is no need because the thermal paste provided by AMD is very good and that there isn't a point to apply a whole lot. So now, would that be the source of my problem?

Sorry, I'm typing this on my iPad at the moment. Thanks!

I'm kind of confused here.

If you installed the cpu incorrectly then you wouldn't have been able to put on the heatsink let alone lock the cpu down to the socket.

Did you use the stock cooler when you installed it the first time? If you did then didn't you use up the pre applied thermal paste already?

Also rule of thumb, everytime you take off the cpu cooler always wipe clean and reapply the thermal paste.

 

[Liquid_015]

I'm kind of confused here.

If you installed the cpu incorrectly then you wouldn't have been able to put on the heatsink let alone lock the cpu down to the socket.

Did you use the stock cooler when you installed it the first time? If you did then didn't you use up the pre applied thermal paste already?

Also rule of thumb, everytime you take off the cpu cooler always wipe clean and reapply the thermal paste.

@nom

The PC works fine and all, but when I checked the temps it had an average of 39 Celsius. I will post results tomorrow morning, but I'm pretty sure it will not be under 60F during the stress test. if so, will it ruin my CPU?

@Awesome

Yeah, I wasn't sure because I trusted the tech guy. I knew I installed it correctly but he said I did it wrong and he reinstalled it for me, because when he pulled out the heatsink the CPU came off with it and he told me how to correctly mount the lever which locked the CPU. Godamn, I'll probably have to go back to the guy and tell him to reapply some thermal paste.

Would that be the most sensible thing to do??

 

[mkenyon]

Argh. I'm not sure how to utilize Prime95 properly. I ran the program and it stressed my CPU but I am not sure where to check the temperature of the CPU during the stress test. -__-'

HWMonitor or Realtemp, download the programs.

*edit*
Big mistake, the stock coolers come pre-applied with thermalpaste, no need to add your own. Most likely, you have way too much on there. You'll want to remove the whole thing, clean it with 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol and then reapply a small amount of thermal paste.

 

[Liquid_015]

HWMonitor or Realtemp, download the programs.

*edit*
Big mistake, the stock coolers come pre-applied with thermalpaste, no need to add your own. Most likely, you have way too much on there. You'll want to remove the whole thing, clean it with 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol and then reapply a small amount of thermal paste.

I didn't apply addition thermal paste. My tech friend simply uninstalled my heatsink, reposition the CPU/ Lever then he reinstalled my CPU.

 

[Raide]

Finally picked out my budget PC and will be ordering soon.

CPU: Intel Core i3 2100
Operating System: Vista Home Premium
Motherboard: Asus P8H61-M LX2 (Rev. 3)
Memory: 4GB DDR3 1333mhz (2x 2GB) (Toying with 8GB but I would have to get a better OS)
Hard Drives: 500GB S-ATAII 3.0Gb/s (I already have another 500GB from previous PC)
Optical Drive: 22x DVD±RW DL S-ATA
Graphics card: Onboard Intel GMA4500 (Will be using 8800GT from old system)
Sound card: Audigy 2 from old PC
Case: Piano Black ATX
PSU: 500W PSU

Can anyone recommend a budget graphics card that would be a nice upgrade from the 8800GT or should I just wait till later in the year and buy something much better? I am not a huge PC gamer, a bit of WoW and SC2 but it might be nice to be able to run BF3 at an acceptable rate.

 

[n0n44m]

@nom

The PC works fine and all, but when I checked the temps it had an average of 39 Celsius. I will post results tomorrow morning, but I'm pretty sure it will not be under 60F during the stress test. if so, will it ruin my CPU?

39c is OK for idle

it should be under 60C when stress testing not 60F (nobody uses F anyways in technology )


did you run it before he pulled off the heatsink and reinstalled it?

either way I'm pretty sure it's OK at the moment, cleaning it and remounting with fresh paste will improve the temperatures but functionality is probably not affected at the moment

 

[SRG01]

Finally picked out my budget PC and will be ordering soon.

CPU: Intel Core i3 2100
Operating System: Vista Home Premium
Motherboard: Asus P8H61-M LX2 (Rev. 3)
Memory: 4GB DDR3 1333mhz (2x 2GB) (Toying with 8GB but I would have to get a better OS)
Hard Drives: 500GB S-ATAII 3.0Gb/s (I already have another 500GB from previous PC)
Optical Drive: 22x DVD±RW DL S-ATA
Graphics card: Onboard Intel GMA4500 (Will be using 8800GT from old system)
Sound card: Audigy 2 from old PC
Case: Piano Black ATX
PSU: 500W PSU

Can anyone recommend a budget graphics card that would be a nice upgrade from the 8800GT or should I just wait till later in the year and buy something much better? I am not a huge PC gamer, a bit of WoW and SC2 but it might be nice to be able to run BF3 at an acceptable rate.

This is almost identical to the rig that I'm assembling. You should take a look at the 5770 or 5830. They can be found at around $100 on sale occasionally!

 

[mclaren777]

My sister-in-law is planning to buy a new Sandy Bridge laptop and she enjoys playing Civ2 and a couple of other games. The Dell she's looking at has these two options...

Intel HD Graphics 3000
AMD HD 6470M (64-bit) 512MB

Do you think the AMD GPU is worth the additional $75?

 

[barnone]

Alright here is my final build..

CM690 II Advanced Case
EVGA GTX 570 GPU
4GB RAM
ASRock p67 EXTREME4 mobo
i5 2500k CPU
Corsair Builder Series CX600, 600W PSU
Samsung 1TB Spinpoint 7200 RPM
Hyper 212+ CPU Cooler

Total after MIR and shipping: $932.35

Kept it under $1000 =) Anything I am missing?

 

[Attackthebase]

I'm looking to upgrade my graphic card soon (by next week), I currently have $200, let's stay in that price range, give-or-take $50. I would like to stay with the Nvidia Brand. If I'm missing any vital info, let me know, and I'll post them. Thanks!

Mobo: ASUS P6T LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard

 

[I3rand0]

My build is below. Can someone recommend the best bang for your buck video card that can handle DX 11 well as my current card doesn't support it. I was testing running Shogun 2 last night in DX 10 on Very High settings and it was really choppy, thanks.

> Core i7 920 (overclocked to 3.7 Ghz)
> Intel DX58SO motherboard
> Antec Twelve Hundred Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
> EVGA 017-P3-1175-AR GeForce GTX 275 1792MB 448-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 SLI Support Video Card
CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-850HX 850W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
> CORSAIR DOMINATOR 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model TR3X6G1600C8D
> Western Digital VelociRaptor WD3000BLFS 300GB 10000 RPM 16MB Cache 2.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Enterprise Hard Drive -Bare Drive

 

[mkenyon]

My build is below. Can someone recommend the best bang for your buck video card that can handle DX 11 well as my current card doesn't support it. I was testing running Shogun 2 last night in DX 10 on Very High settings and it was really choppy, thanks.

> Core i7 920 (overclocked to 3.7 Ghz)
> Intel DX58SO motherboard
> Antec Twelve Hundred Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
> EVGA 017-P3-1175-AR GeForce GTX 275 1792MB 448-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 SLI Support Video Card
CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-850HX 850W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
> CORSAIR DOMINATOR 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model TR3X6G1600C8D
> Western Digital VelociRaptor WD3000BLFS 300GB 10000 RPM 16MB Cache 2.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Enterprise Hard Drive -Bare Drive

6950 2GB or 560Ti. You'll see a lot more gain from a 570 though.

 

[I3rand0]

6950 2GB or 560Ti. You'll see a lot more gain from a 570 though.

What do you think about the EVGA 570 superclocked model? Its on amazon right now for $360. What do you estimate my performance would be dx 11 in shogun 2?

 

[Raide]

This is almost identical to the rig that I'm assembling. You should take a look at the 5770 or 5830. They can be found at around $100 on sale occasionally!

Thanks very much, those cards seem very suitable. Out of the two, which one is better or are they pretty equal?

 

[mkenyon]

What do you think about the EVGA 570 superclocked model? Its on amazon right now for $360. What do you estimate my performance would be dx 11 in shogun 2?

Google some reviews on it, they'll give you the exact metrics.

 

[mkenyon]

My sister-in-law is planning to buy a new Sandy Bridge laptop and she enjoys playing Civ2 and a couple of other games. The Dell she's looking at has these two options...

Intel HD Graphics 3000
AMD HD 6470M (64-bit) 512MB

Do you think the AMD GPU is worth the additional $75?

Check the OP, there's a link to the laptop thread. Us PC-gurus in here don't really know what any of this means.

*edit* Sorry for double post!

 

[vilmer_]

Ok I just put everything together and for some reason I'm not POST'ing The monitor is just flashing. I've checked all connections and everything is where it should be. I'm not getting any error beeps as well either. One thing I'm noticing is that about 10 seconds after I hit the power button initially and everything starts spinning up, everything just suddenly stops for a couple of seconds and then starts back up as normal. I'm running a 2500k, P8P67 Pro, gtx 460, 8gb of ram and a haf 922 case. Any ideas? This is driving me nuts :/

 

[Alucrid]

So I'm playing WoW and sometimes the game will crash or freeze / jutter to the point where I can't do anything and have to close out of the game via the task manager. I usually play it on Ultra and I'm running a Core 2 Duo E8500 3.16, GTX 460 1GB and 4 GB of ram so I shouldn't be having any problems. I'm downloading the latest drivers for the 460, anyone else have any ideas what it could be?

 

[Raide]

So I'm playing WoW and sometimes the game will crash or freeze / jutter to the point where I can't do anything and have to close out of the game via the task manager. I usually play it on Ultra and I'm running a Core 2 Duo E8500 3.16, GTX 460 1GB and 4 GB of ram so I shouldn't be having any problems. I'm downloading the latest drivers for the 460, anyone else have any ideas what it could be?

Maybe run without add-ons and see if that sorts it. Deleting the Cache and updating again might help, or even the more drastic option of a fresh install. With those specs, you should not have any issues.

 

[Velion]

Ok I just put everything together and for some reason I'm not POST'ing The monitor is just flashing. I've checked all connections and everything is where it should be. I'm not getting any error beeps as well either. One thing I'm noticing is that about 10 seconds after I hit the power button initially and everything starts spinning up, everything just suddenly stops for a couple of seconds and then starts back up as normal. I'm running a 2500k, P8P67 Pro, gtx 460, 8gb of ram and a haf 922 case. Any ideas? This is driving me nuts :/

Any red lights lit up on your motherboard?

 

[n0n44m]

Ok I just put everything together and for some reason I'm not POST'ing The monitor is just flashing. I've checked all connections and everything is where it should be. I'm not getting any error beeps as well either. One thing I'm noticing is that about 10 seconds after I hit the power button initially and everything starts spinning up, everything just suddenly stops for a couple of seconds and then starts back up as normal. I'm running a 2500k, P8P67 Pro, gtx 460, 8gb of ram and a haf 922 case. Any ideas? This is driving me nuts :/

first time running that motherboard? the double boot is something that happened with the first bios releases if I remember correctly, so that might explain that

what does the monitor flash exactly?

I'll assume you've got all cables connected correctly and so on, but you might want to check anyway

=> do the two red leds (MEM OK and CPUsomethingsomething) stop burning after ~10 seconds or do they stay on?

I think there's also a MEM OK button you can press for a few seconds, which resets some of the bios settings?

finally you can do a CMOS reset, check in the boards manual for the correct procedure (remove battery, connect jumper, disconnect jumper, replace battery?)


if you have another pci-e videocard you can try that one instead ofcourse, might be easiest to rule out your videocard first =]

 

[Deadstar]

Could anyone recommend a nice sounding 4.1 pc speaker system for $200 or less? Maybe $250 or less if nothing is available under $200.

10 years ago I had the Klipsch ProMedia 4.1 system and it was an awesome system. It had great sound and the bass was booming. It died and I had to get some Logitech garbage that sounds horrible, that is now dying. I want to get 4.1 so I can have two speakers next to my computer and two next to my tv so that I can rock the sound back and forth depending on if i'm playing a game on the tv or using the computer.

I'm looking for something that compares to my sweet Klipsch 4.1 system that is no longer available.

Features I'm looking for:

- 4.1 System
- Headphone jack on one speaker or pod

 

[Corky]

fuuucking hell, my next build is sooo going to have a focus on being silent.

 

[n0n44m]

fuuucking hell, my next build is sooo going to have a focus on being silent.

don't you have a Fractal R3?

 

[vilmer_]

Any red lights lit up on your motherboard?

It looks like the mem ok button at the top right is red.

first time running that motherboard? the double boot is something that happened with the first bios releases if I remember correctly, so that might explain that

what does the monitor flash exactly?

I'll assume you've got all cables connected correctly and so on, but you might want to check anyway

=> do the two red leds (MEM OK and CPUsomethingsomething) stop burning after ~10 seconds or do they stay on?

I think there's also a MEM OK button you can press for a few seconds, which resets some of the bios settings?

finally you can do a CMOS reset, check in the boards manual for the correct procedure (remove battery, connect jumper, disconnect jumper, replace battery?)


if you have another pci-e videocard you can try that one instead ofcourse, might be easiest to rule out your videocard first =]

It's the first time I've booted this motherboard up. The monitor just flashes like it's in sleep/stand by mode as well. The one red led stays on permanently. Unfortunately I don't have another vid card laying around as I gave my old one to my cousin :/

 

[TheExodu5]

fuuucking hell, my next build is sooo going to have a focus on being silent.

What's your hardware right now?

 

[mkenyon]

fuuucking hell, my next build is sooo going to have a focus on being silent.

Time for watercooling Corky? *evil cackle*

 

[n0n44m]

It looks like the mem ok button at the top right is red.



It's the first time I've booted this motherboard up. The monitor just flashes like it's in sleep/stand by mode as well. The one red led stays on permanently. Unfortunately I don't have another vid card laying around as I gave my old one to my cousin :/

OK then boot it up, and while it is burning red near the MEM OK button :

PRESS AND HOLD that MEM OK button for a few seconds until it starts blinking

*I've got this from a youtube movie with a different asus motherboard and while I have the p8p67pro as well I havent used that button so don't blame me if it blows up / you might want to read the manual first to be sure*

 

[Paracelsus]

http://amdmotherboards.com/news/Gra...Force-GTX-560-Overclock-Edition-Graphics-Card

Anything better than this-^ in the 150€ range to pair with a 2500k? 150€ is the most I can spend over the gpu, assuming my 550w psu is not a branded one and it will have to be replaced.

 

[Corky]

don't you have a Fractal R3?

Nope wasn't in stock when I had my delirium and ordered my stuff

What's your hardware right now?

600T
Noctua dh14

and even idling in the desktop is really loud compared with my old run of the mill cooler master case and hyper 212+

Time for watercooling Corky? *evil cackle*

Don't even start, I have money to burn so the only thing keeping me from buying it is my utter sanity that is slowly dwindling.

 

[black_vegeta]

600T
Noctua dh14

and even idling in the desktop is really loud compared with my old run of the mill cooler master case and hyper 212+

Probably the case fans. I can't imagine the Noctua being loud.

 

[n0n44m]

Nope wasn't in stock when I had my delirium and ordered my stuff

aren't you Swedish ? shame on you then

but that Noctua can't be RPM controlled or what?

maybe replace the fans with PWM fans and get a PWM splitter (which is how I ran my Mugen 2 with push/pull fans before going liquid)

edit:

quick fix for the casefans (personal favorite):

connect all of them to a regular ass molex using those 3pin-fan-to-molex adapters

now on the molex side of the adapter, take out the 12V pin and replace it with the 5V pin and the other way around (taking them out only requires a small screwdriver, just google it)

fans will now run at 5V and be silent =] (and slow)

*DONT EVER PLUG STUFF LIKE HARDDRIVES IN SUCH A MODDED MOLEX CONNECTOR*

 

[TheExodu5]

600T
Noctua dh14

and even idling in the desktop is really loud compared with my old run of the mill cooler master case and hyper 212+

It's all about fan control. Turn down those case fans! Just identify the loudest fan in your build and turn it down. Reiterate until noise levels are acceptable, or until temps get too high.

I have a HAF X with a 230mm fan, 2x 200mm fans, 2x 140mm fan, 2x 120mm fans, and the two ~60mm fans from my 2x GTX 570s. My system is extremely quiet (aside from case vibrations from the hard drives).

I control the following fans with a fan controller:

230mm: 400RPM
200mm (x2): 450RPM
140mm: 700RPM

The 2x 120mm fans I use on my CPU are static at 800RPM. The other 140mm fan is the PSU.

aren't you Swedish ? shame on you then

but that Noctua can't be RPM controlled or what?

maybe replace the fans with PWM fans and get a PWM splitter (which is how I ran my Mugen 2 with push/pull fans before going liquid)

edit:

quick fix for the casefans (personal favorite):

connect all of them to a regular ass molex using those 3pin-fan-to-molex adapters

now on the molex side of the adapter, take out the 12V pin and replace it with the 5V pin and the other way around (taking them out only requires a small screwdriver, just google it)

fans will now run at 5V and be silent =] (and slow)

*DONT EVER PLUG STUFF LIKE HARDDRIVES IN SUCH A MODDED MOLEX CONNECTOR*

The Noctua comes with a 7V and 5V adapters. He can start by using one of those (probably the 7V).

As for the rest of the case fans, he could just get a $20 voltage fan controller like one of the Scythe controllers.

That 5V mod is interesting though!

 

[Spookie]

600T
Noctua dh14

As someone recommended: the R3 is fantastic. I'd say look at changing out your fans but if you're already looking at a new build?

 

[Corky]

Probably the case fans. I can't imagine the Noctua being loud.

Nah I don't think the noctua itself is loud I don't really think the case fans might be loud per se either, however the problem is that I cannot imagine it even being possible to have a quiet 600T given it's perforated to hell and back. Even a whisper would leave the case

aren't you Swedish ? shame on you then

I am shameful
I do think it can be controlled since I got "those connectors" within the box. I'm going to look into it.

It's all about fan control. Turn down those case fans! Just identify the loudest fan in your build and turn it down. Reiterate until noise levels are acceptable, or until temps get too high.

Hmm I wonder how much my temps would rise if I did that, that is turned down those case fans. Guess I'll just have to try.

As someone recommended: the R3 is fantastic. I'd say look at changing out your fans but if you're already looking at a new build?

I soo wish the R3 was in stock, I might change my case fans to some noctua fan.

 

[n0n44m]

That 5V mod is interesting though!

in my 690-II I drilled out a hole in the bottom for a simple 2-way switch, then connected that to the +5 and +12 lines of a molex connector, with the return line from the switch going to a 3pin fan connector together with a ground line from that molex

from there I daisy chained all 7 casefans to that connector, so I could set them all to 12V when gaming (hot air from GPU) and 5V when doing everything else

the switch is nicely hidden in the front bottom because I don't like the look of most fan controllers

 

[mkenyon]

Doesnt your 600T have a built in fan controller? Or is that specific to my 600T White? I can get everything but this loud ass XFX 5870 to run almost inaudibly with good temps.

 

[Spookie]

I soo wish the R3 was in stock, I might change my case fans to some noctua fan.

If you fancy throwing money at the problem then I recommend the Scythe Gentle Typhoon (1450 rpm). They put through a lot of air and I can say you'd struggle to hear them over a mechanical keyboard.

 

[TheExodu5]

Hmm I wonder how much my temps would rise if I did that, that is turned down those case fans. Guess I'll just have to try.

You'd be surprised. Video cards and stock CPU coolers are designed to work in cases with a single 120mm exhaust. Your 600T has what, a 230mm intake, a 200mm top exhaust, and 140mm rear exhaust? They really don't have to turn very fast to give you enough airflow.

Where's your case in relation to your head? If it's just to the right of your head, I could see the internal fans (mostly GPU) giving you grief. You might want to look into setting up a fan profile for them, if that's the case.

My GTX 570s have the loudest fans in my build, even at idle. The rest of my fans run at constant speed. Whether I run my fans at 400RPM or 800RPM, my load temps stay the same...that just means I have more than adequate airflow.

If you fancy throwing money at the problem then I recommend the Scythe Gentle Typhoon (1450 rpm). They put through a lot of air and I can say you'd struggle to hear them over a mechanical keyboard.

Some people have a different noise level tolerance. A 120mm fan spinning at 1450RPM sounds like a jet engine to me. Even my 800RPM fans are a little loud to my taste.

In my old build, I had 4x 120mm fans running at 400RPM, managing to cool off a Q8300 @ 3.0GHz (and <55C load temps using a Scythe Mugen 2), and an MSI GTX 275 @ 35% fan speed. People overestimate how much airflow they really need.

 

[Corky]

You'd be surprised. Video cards and stock CPU coolers are designed to work in cases with a single 120mm exhaust. Your 600T has what, a 230mm intake, a 200mm top exhaust, and 140mm rear exhaust? They really don't have to turn very fast to give you enough airflow.

Where's your case in relation to your head? If it's just to the right of your head, I could see the internal fans (mostly GPU) giving you grief. You might want to look into setting up a fan profile for them, if that's the case.

My GTX 570s have the loudest fans in my build, even at idle. The rest of my fans run at constant speed. Whether I run my fans at 400RPM or 800RPM, my load temps stay the same...that just means I have more than adequate airflow.



Some people have a different noise level tolerance. A 120mm fan spinning at 1450RPM sounds like a jet engine to me. Even my 800RPM fans are a little loud to my taste.

In my old build, I had 4x 120mm fans running at 400RPM, managing to cool off a Q8300 @ 3.0GHz (and <55C load temps using a Scythe Mugen 2), and an MSI GTX 275 @ 35% fan speed. People overestimate how much airflow they really need.

Interesting.

My case is roughly 1 m to the left of my head diagonally, on the ground. We have this semi-decent "noise-level-godwhatsitcalled" device and I put it where my ear is basically and it showed a reading of roughly 55 decibels. Is that high/low? Am I being overly sensitive?

 

[TheExodu5]

Interesting.

My case is roughly 1 m to the left of my head diagonally, on the ground. We have this semi-decent "noise-level-godwhatsitcalled" device and I put it where my ear is basically and it showed a reading of roughly 55 decibels. Is that high/low? Am I being overly sensitive?

That's very high, I think.

I'm guessing for it to be considered quiet, you'd probably want to be closer to 30-40dB.

I should get myself an spl meter...I'm curious how loud mine would be.

 

[Alucrid]

Maybe run without add-ons and see if that sorts it. Deleting the Cache and updating again might help, or even the more drastic option of a fresh install. With those specs, you should not have any issues.

Thanks I'll try those. I installed new drivers and it seems to be going well so far, although the problems usually occur an hour or two into the game, so I'm just waiting to see now.

 

[Corky]

That's very high, I think.

I'm guessing for it to be considered quiet, you'd probably want to be closer to 30-40dB.

err I thought so aswell, so I took another read and got 45 dB still not close to 30 :/