"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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welp, installed a friend's thermaltake 775w today and the noise is still there, coming from the hard drives. So it wasnt the PSU.
Now, i think i narrowed it down to it coming from the oldest 160gb drive, i think its just dying
pretty sure the newer 1.5tb isnt making the same high pitched noise. Guess ill install the OS in a partition on that one (i was using the 160gb for OS related stuff) and just take out the other one.
How do i go by doing this without erasing everything on my 1.5tb?
Now, i think i narrowed it down to it coming from the oldest 160gb drive, i think its just dying
pretty sure the newer 1.5tb isnt making the same high pitched noise. Guess ill install the OS in a partition on that one (i was using the 160gb for OS related stuff) and just take out the other one.
How do i go by doing this without erasing everything on my 1.5tb?
·feist· said:Man, even the regulars don't check out the OP.
At $80-90, the CM 690 II is still the all-around case to beat in that class.
Cooler Master 690 II Advanced Video Review
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGvBjEmXJnI
Went with this case for my build. While it is indeed amazing, the only issue I have is that the panel behind which the cables route and that side of the case is a bit tight. Nothing some snug zip-ties can't fix, but just a little nitpick.
I'll see if I can get a better picture than what my blackberry crap phone can produce sometime soon.
Tallshortman
Member
SalsaShark said:welp, installed a friend's thermaltake 775w today and the noise is still there, coming from the hard drives. So it wasnt the PSU.
Now, i think i narrowed it down to it coming from the oldest 160gb drive, i think its just dying
pretty sure the newer 1.5tb isnt making the same high pitched noise. Guess ill install the OS in a partition on that one (i was using the 160gb for OS related stuff) and just take out the other one.
How do i go by doing this without erasing everything on my 1.5tb?
Disk Imaging software is pretty easy to use for this. Acronis very good from my uses, I used the free version for WD HDDs but you may be able to find the version for your HDD or just use their free trial. There are also other Disk Imaging programs out there. You can use it clone the 160gb onto a partition of the 1.5tb, this way you don't need to do a new OS install and you're ready to go once the cloning is done.
Psychotext
Member
I wish I could work out a way to fit a bigger case into my workspace. I'm going with one of the Lian-Li standard cases... which are lovely, but I'm already starting to find that certain heatsinks wont fit etc.
Stupid world.
On that note, is there a foolproof way of working out if the heatsink I buy is going to fit on my motherboard (especially without hitting the ram), or is it a case of finding out when I'm all excited about putting my PC together than then smashing everything to bits in a fit of childish rage?
Stupid world.
On that note, is there a foolproof way of working out if the heatsink I buy is going to fit on my motherboard (especially without hitting the ram), or is it a case of finding out when I'm all excited about putting my PC together than then smashing everything to bits in a fit of childish rage?
Enosh said:
I know your question has been answered but figured I'm jump in just because I had the exact same PC, an e8400 and 4850 and I upgraded to a 5870 and definitely got a pretty sizable graphics boost.
I personally don't think it's a worthwhile upgrade though from a 4850 to a 6850/6870 (although I have not been following benchmarks of more recent drivers in the last several months so maybe I'm wrong about this). I think 6950 is where it starts being worth the money to upgrade. Yes, in some CPU intensive games your e8400 will be bottlenecking you, but in the vast majority of games on the market that still won't be the case.
I'd also recommend you overclock the e8400. It's so easy to do and it will help in some CPU intensive games. For example, right now I am playing SR2 and the difference betwee 3 Ghz and 3.6 Ghz is the never going below 30 fps. It literally is just changing one number in your Bios, and even on a stock cooler you can get 3.6 Ghz easy (that is where I am at, I can push it a little bit more but figure 3.6 is good enough).
Alright. I'm ready to join the big time. I'm looking to put together a bang up three monitor set up. I'm rolling with a HD 6950 and I'm looking to put this baby to work. So, which three monitors are the best bang for the buck to accomplish this set up? Looking to spend around $300 per monitor unless something really fuckawesome comes up, then I'm willing to go a bit higher.
Assemble my brothers and assist me please!
Assemble my brothers and assist me please!
Enosh
Member
thanks for all the suggestions, yes I atm kinda deciding betwen the 6870 and the 6950, found a good deal for the 6870 on a site (180, otherwise I see them for around ~200), the 6950 otoh is from what I am looking from around 250 on, which might be pushing my budged limit, idk, will think about it some more, compare some benchmarks etc, I am gaiming at 1680X1050 btw, if it has any influence
I am also thinking about future upgrades, so the 6950 might be better in that regard
well I have around 2 weeks to decide ^^
I am also thinking about future upgrades, so the 6950 might be better in that regard
well I have around 2 weeks to decide ^^
yes tis is also something I have been thinking off, but I've never done it and I fear I might fuck something up.coopolon said:
Kintaro said:
Probably the Dell Ultrasharp 23 inchers for ~$300 each. (They're listed at $320 right now, but I think there's various cash back systems or other things that can get them down a little if you hunt around.)
http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/...ynoteSearch&baynote_bnrank=1&baynote_irrank=0
Cnet review: http://www.cnet.com.au/dell-ultrasharp-u2311h-339304283.htm
Edit : Another review: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dell_u2311h.htm
coopolon said:
Kintaro, if you go this route make sure you keep on exchanging the monitors until you get ones that don't have screwed up colors (the kind of problem that can't be solved unless you get a new monitor)
If you're going strictly gaming the U2311 and other Dell IPS monitors have some ok response time for gaming which is pretty much a given since its not a TN panel.
Tallshortman
Member
Enosh said:
If price is a worry I'd suggest the 1GB version of the 6950. The vast majority of games won't use more than 1GB of RAM and even in those cases it only happened in 2560x1600 maxed out.
Thought I posted this weeks ago (not sure if anyone else has already), but for all the Fractal Design Define R3 and R2 users here, FD released a USB 3.0 front I/O kit some time ago.
+
Doesn't seem like it will become a running change on the R3, unless they do a proper Define R4, so current and future users just have to install it themselves. Very simple.
Unless you have abnormally large modules and/or an abnormally large cooling solution, it's rarely a big deal that you can't make work. Even then, there are still workarounds.
+
Doesn't seem like it will become a running change on the R3, unless they do a proper Define R4, so current and future users just have to install it themselves. Very simple.
That's one of the areas that it's bested by options like the FD Arc, 400R, and HAF 922. Still, along with its list of features, it's hard to argue with the number of different air cooling configurations you can implement. For water cooling, none of the others will take an internal 120x2 rad in push/pull up top, along with an internal 120x2 rad in push/pull on the bottom of the case.TommyT said:
Search for your case+HSF, your case+motherboard. Check out the listed measurements for the ram, and HSF from the retailer specs, or directly from the manufacturer's site.Psychotext said:I wish I could work out a way to fit a bigger case into my workspace. I'm going with one of the Lian-Li standard cases... which are lovely, but I'm already starting to find that certain heatsinks wont fit etc.
Stupid world.
On that note, is there a foolproof way of working out if the heatsink I buy is going to fit on my motherboard (especially without hitting the ram), or is it a case of finding out when I'm all excited about putting my PC together than then smashing everything to bits in a fit of childish rage?
Unless you have abnormally large modules and/or an abnormally large cooling solution, it's rarely a big deal that you can't make work. Even then, there are still workarounds.
Tallshortman
Member
Kadey said:
Just take it one at a time. It really isn't that complicated once you realize which types of cable inputs each part needs.
black_vegeta
Member
Kadey said:
Easy peezy. We'll be here when you need help.
Kadey said:
It took me about 5 hours for my very first build. Every went smoothly and it is gawtlyke. Take your time though and have fun.
Kadey said:Okay guys. See that thing right there. Am I supposed to pop that thing off in order to get my second dvd drive in?
Yes
This is probably common knowledge but I'm going to recommend for people to NOT use Amazon when ordering a HDD. I'm surprised the drive isn't dead with the kind of packaging it arrived in.
Oh well, I made a pretty nice rig out of old parts that I'm giving to a friend, just needed a HDD to complete it.
Oh well, I made a pretty nice rig out of old parts that I'm giving to a friend, just needed a HDD to complete it.
black_vegeta
Member
Kalnos said:
Mine were packaged very poorly. Although they were smothered in bubble wrap, they were being shaken during the shipping process. Thankfully, they work fine.
Kalnos said:
OEM drive thats in a clear plastic shell, placed inside an amazon box with little to no padding? I didn't think too much about it since the UPS guy will frisbee it from the back of his truck to the dash and it will survive most times. Of course, I just shipped a PC to my brother via fedex 2 day air and it looks like they damaged it so now I'm going to have to fly there myself to troubleshoot.
Amazon, newegg, bestbuy... if the UPS/Fedex delivery guys want to wreck your stuff, they'll find a way to, regardless of packaging
alright this thermaltake PSU is giving me the weirdest issues ive ever seen.
It does a high pitch noise when i plug my wireless controller reciever through any of the USB ports, and it does the SAME noise if i open Google Chrome.. wtf?
just chrome.
i downloaded firefox and it runs that without making a sound.
EXCEPT it makes ANOTHER different sound when i scroll a page on FF
what the fuck is going on
ive disabled EIST and every possible power saving option in BIOS since i know this could lead to some sound issues on the PSU, but no dice.
My mobo is an Asus p8p67 btw, gtx 560ti and i5 2500k.
I really dont know what else to do, just when i narrow down the problem with the hard drive high pitched noise, now i get ANOTHER fucking noise that's even worst, coming from the PSU im gonna have to use for at least a month. It seriously feels like a joke right now, fml.
It does a high pitch noise when i plug my wireless controller reciever through any of the USB ports, and it does the SAME noise if i open Google Chrome.. wtf?
just chrome.
i downloaded firefox and it runs that without making a sound.
EXCEPT it makes ANOTHER different sound when i scroll a page on FF
what the fuck is going on
ive disabled EIST and every possible power saving option in BIOS since i know this could lead to some sound issues on the PSU, but no dice.
My mobo is an Asus p8p67 btw, gtx 560ti and i5 2500k.
I really dont know what else to do, just when i narrow down the problem with the hard drive high pitched noise, now i get ANOTHER fucking noise that's even worst, coming from the PSU im gonna have to use for at least a month. It seriously feels like a joke right now, fml.
·feist· said:Thought I posted this weeks ago (not sure if anyone else has already), but for all the Fractal Design Define R3 and R2 users here, FD released a USB 3.0 front I/O kit some time ago.
+
Doesn't seem like it will become a running change on the R3, unless they do a proper Define R4, so current and future users just have to install it themselves. Very simple.
Is this available to buy? I cant seem to find any info...
Laurentius
Member
What do you guys think of this PSU?
http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-17-553-003-_-08032011_4
$50 after MiR seems like a great deal. Reviews seem decent.
http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-17-553-003-_-08032011_4
$50 after MiR seems like a great deal. Reviews seem decent.
rhfb said:
1.5hrs to build first machine?! wat
I'm a derp derp then cuz my shit look way longer than that
Kintaro said:
At $300 you've got some nice options.
I'm looking to do the same (multi monitor setup). For a little more than $300 you could start looking into some 3D 120hz monitors. I'm planning to get 2 more ASUS 3D monitors myself. I'm using an Nvidia card though which is a little more 3D friendly than AMD.
If you don't want to go that route you could get 3 Dell U231H IPS monitors. They run around $320 but Dell is always having sales from what I understand.
Putting everything in my first build was easy. Having it POST was difficult. Turns out the RAM I bought wouldn't work with my mobo at their current voltage settings. I had to go into the bios and manually change the voltage. I was like "fuck this shit is difficult!"
Hoping build #2 is easy.
Hoping build #2 is easy.
Laurentius
Member
mkenyon said:
Thanks, I'll probably jump on it. After the MIR it's the same price as the 550W PSU I've been looking into, and that'll give me more headroom.
It was an estimate. I know how much people would want to baby stuff though to make sure nothing breaks and everything works, dropping in CPUs and then forcing that lever down can be downright painful. I was mostly talking the time it takes to assemble the hardware though.Smokey said:
black_vegeta
Member
Kadey said:
It looks right, but I can't confirm since I don't have that cooler.
If you read the instructions correctly it should be fine.
Psychotext
Member
Have done all of this, but to be honest I'm not having a lot of luck with it. Try as I might I can neither find the height of the built in heatsinks on the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO, nor can I find the distance from the center of the CPU to the edge of the ram slots.·feist· said:
I do however know the height of the ram (52.5mm) and the initial clearance of the coolers I'm looking at (from 35mm to 50mm). So none of those could clear the ram, but obviously depends on how much space there is between the CPU and the RAM (and the width of each heatsink + fan, which I also have the data for).
Oh, and it seems that all of the coolers are abnormally large... mostly because I'm going for as quiet as possible.
My first machine took me most of a day... but that was back when getting a dip switch (remember them?Smokey said:
) wrong meant a dead CPU / memory and absolutely nothing you could do about it. Not to mention potentially unrecoverable BIOS configuration errors.Ahh, the good old days. Kids today don't know they are born. \o/
Laurentius
Member
It took me about four or five hours to build my first machine...I really took my time, and there were a few things that I was very uncertain about, so I posted questions and took my time.
A few months ago me and a friend put together 4 machines in the course of about two hours. =D
A few months ago me and a friend put together 4 machines in the course of about two hours. =D
black_vegeta
Member
Power Supply
Graphics Card
Windows boot disc
Graphics Card
Windows boot disc
Psychotext
Member
Could be wrong... but shouldn't that CPU cooler fan be pushing through to the back of the case rather than pulling? (I.E, mounted the other side of the heatsink)
Gareth Bale
Member
Oops. Forgot to plug in the fan at front on mine. Where does it plug into on the motherboard?
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