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[Gvaz]

Oops. Forgot to plug in the fan at front on mine. Where does it plug into on the motherboard?

One of the 3 or 4 pin things on the motherboard should say Case Fan or something to that regard. Plug it into (THE RIGHT WAY, THERE'S A RIGHT WAY) one of those

 

[AwesomeSauce]

Could be wrong... but shouldn't that CPU cooler fan be pushing through to the back of the case rather than pulling? (I.E, mounted the other side of the heatsink)

Yup that's how i have it on mine. I have the cpu fan pushing air and the exhaust case fan pulling it out.

@Kadey switch the cpu fan to the other side. It's really easy to do on the Hyper 212.

 

[black_vegeta]

Okay the case cables. I have ones labeled, Sata, power led, power sw and reset sw. I don't know where they go.

Read the manual, it will tell you where everything goes.

SATA = HDD & SSD. They plug into the SATA connector on the side of the motherboard
Power Led/SW/Reset = all go into one specific place on the motherboard

 

[Laurentius]

I get such bad buyer's remorse, haha. Oh well, I'll make it through this somehow. Currently got RAM, just ordered my PSU, and already have the HDD. Planning to order the rest over the next week or two.

 

[chewydogg]

My CPU and power supply will be arriving tomorrow, so this may be the first of many (stupid?) questions in the next couple days...

My io shield has little tabs on it. Do I need to remove or bend these out of the way?

 

[black_vegeta]

My CPU and power supply will be arriving tomorrow, so this may be the first of many (stupid?) questions in the next couple days...

My io shield has little tabs on it. Do I need to remove or bend these out of the way?

No, leave them as is

 

[chewydogg]

thanks

 

[Hazaro]

This is probably common knowledge but I'm going to recommend for people to NOT use Amazon when ordering a HDD. I'm surprised the drive isn't dead with the kind of packaging it arrived in.

Oh well, I made a pretty nice rig out of old parts that I'm giving to a friend, just needed a HDD to complete it.

It is a toss up.

Sometimes its an HDD with newspaper in a 2 foot by 2 foot box.
Other times it is the super secure safe packaging.

Okay guys. Now what?

Mount the fan on the otherside with the sticker (back) facing the back of the case.
You want it blowing air across the heatsink, not sucking it in.

 

[black_vegeta]

Mount the fan on the otherside with the sticker (back) facing the back of the case.
You want it blowing air across the heatsink, not sucking it in.

Whoops, didn't see that

 

[Chris R]

Okay guys. Now what?

I'd also consider turning your hard drives around. Just looks better that way (the cables will be somewhat hidden if you turn them around, vs be right in your face if you leave them as they are).

 

[Salsa]

for new page:

alright this thermaltake PSU is giving me the weirdest issues ive ever seen.

It does a high pitch noise when i plug my wireless controller reciever through any of the USB ports, and it does the SAME noise if i open Google Chrome.. wtf?

just chrome.

i downloaded firefox and it runs that without making a sound.

EXCEPT it makes ANOTHER different sound when i scroll a page on FF

what the fuck is going on

ive disabled EIST and every possible power saving option in BIOS since i know this could lead to some sound issues on the PSU, but no dice.

My mobo is an Asus p8p67 btw, gtx 560ti and i5 2500k.

I really dont know what else to do, just when i narrow down the problem with the hard drive high pitched noise, now i get ANOTHER fucking noise that's even worst, coming from the PSU im gonna have to use for at least a month. It seriously feels like a joke right now, fml.

in case you guys have any ideas

 

[black_vegeta]

I'd also consider turning your hard drives around. Just looks better that way (the cables will be somewhat hidden if you turn them around, vs be right in your face if you leave them as they are).

Yeah, if you want a "clean" looking PC, have all the cables routed to the back of the case. You can then use zip ties to keep them neat and tidy so you can close the back of your case.

 

[RS4-]

For cable routing examples or whatever of how it'd look behind the motherboard and inside, just google around. It'll save you the trouble of figuring out what to do with everything

 

[Hazaro]

for new page:

in case you guys have any ideas

Some PC components can have that whine. Just RMA if you are positive the noise is from there.
Could be GPU/Mobo

I'd also consider turning your hard drives around. Just looks better that way (the cables will be somewhat hidden if you turn them around, vs be right in your face if you leave them as they are).

Too troublesome to plug and unplug drives for me. Messy and accessible all the way.

 

[pirata]

So, at this point, my trepidation regarding Windows 7 of all things is what's keeping me from ordering all of my parts and building the thing. I know that I'm supposed to get 64-bit, and I know that I can install Windows using the upgrade and it will still work (someone, please confirm this with me, I'm still not 100% sure I'm doing the right thing), and I know that since I am a student, I can get said upgrade here for thirty dollars.

HOWEVER, I still don't understand some stuff. On the website, it says that I'm paying for a "download." What does this mean? Does it not come with anything physical? If so, how am I supposed to get it onto a new PC? Should I get the "back-up disc" option? I'd really like some clarification on this before I take the plunge.

 

[Hazaro]

You download the 64 bit .iso (image file) which you then burn to a DVD or put on a USB bootable drive.
DVD route is much easier.

Install with your upgrade disc and do not enter a key.
Install again with the disc and enter your upgrade key.

I don't know what the backup option is but it probably makes a small partition for system data or something?

 

[buhdeh]

So, at this point, my trepidation regarding Windows 7 of all things is what's keeping me from ordering all of my parts and building the thing. I know that I'm supposed to get 64-bit, and I know that I can install Windows using the upgrade and it will still work (someone, please confirm this with me, I'm still not 100% sure I'm doing the right thing), and I know that since I am a student, I can get said upgrade here for thirty dollars.

HOWEVER, I still don't understand some stuff. On the website, it says that I'm paying for a "download." What does this mean? Does it not come with anything physical? If so, how am I supposed to get it onto a new PC? Should I get the "back-up disc" option? I'd really like some clarification on this before I take the plunge.

It should come as an iso that you can burn to dvd

 

[MisterNoisy]

Thought I posted this weeks ago (not sure if anyone else has already), but for all the Fractal Design Define R3 and R2 users here, FD released a USB 3.0 front I/O kit some time ago.
http://i.imgur.com/Kh9ba.jpg

Doesn't seem like it will become a running change on the R3, unless they do a proper Define R4, so current and future users just have to install it themselves. Very simple.

Very cool that they're doing that. For the rest of us with a USB 3.0 header on their motherboard, but no ports on the case, Bitfenix is offering a solution too. All you need is $25 and a free 3.5" bay.

 

[Chris R]

Too troublesome to plug and unplug drives for me. Messy and accessible all the way.

You can take the back panel off the case you know

My brothers case (HAF922) had lots of space to set the drives up this way.

 

[MisterNoisy]

Is this right guys? I put the back bracket into my motherboard for my cooler. Is it supposed to be like this?

EDIT: Never mind - you've got it oriented properly for Intel.

 

[RS4-]

I wish more case making companies used the hot swap feature for HDDs. Something like the one used in the Corsair 800d is convenient.

 

[hypernima]

You download the 64 bit .iso (image file) which you then burn to a DVD or put on a USB bootable drive.
DVD route is much easier.

Install with your upgrade disc and do not enter a key.
Install again with the disc and enter your upgrade key.

I don't know what the backup option is but it probably makes a small partition for system data or something?

If I install xp on first then the upgrade it'll work right?

 

[Hazaro]

If I install xp on first then the upgrade it'll work right?

...Maybe? You can't clean upgrade from XP to 7. You have to do a custom since it basically won't retain anything of importance besides storing your old data files or Windows_Old
I think.

I'd just install 7 twice and avoid any problems. It's a fast install.

 

[The Teachinator]

1.5hrs to build first machine?! wat

I'm a derp derp then cuz my shit look way longer than that




At $300 you've got some nice options.

I'm looking to do the same (multi monitor setup). For a little more than $300 you could start looking into some 3D 120hz monitors. I'm planning to get 2 more ASUS 3D monitors myself. I'm using an Nvidia card though which is a little more 3D friendly than AMD.

If you don't want to go that route you could get 3 Dell U231H IPS monitors. They run around $320 but Dell is always having sales from what I understand.

Yeah man took me at least 6 hours to get it all put together properly and that's not counting installing windows, drivers, etc.

 

[Gareth Bale]

So, at this point, my trepidation regarding Windows 7 of all things is what's keeping me from ordering all of my parts and building the thing. I know that I'm supposed to get 64-bit, and I know that I can install Windows using the upgrade and it will still work (someone, please confirm this with me, I'm still not 100% sure I'm doing the right thing), and I know that since I am a student, I can get said upgrade here for thirty dollars.

HOWEVER, I still don't understand some stuff. On the website, it says that I'm paying for a "download." What does this mean? Does it not come with anything physical? If so, how am I supposed to get it onto a new PC? Should I get the "back-up disc" option? I'd really like some clarification on this before I take the plunge.

This is what I've spent the last hour doing, student edition and all. It's easy enough and that's saying something.

I downloaded the Win 7 Professional Upgrade (student) to another PC. Choose download as an iso. Then I followed the instructions for preparing the flash drive. You can find them on the Microsoft site. Then extracted the files from the iso I downloaded to the flash drive. Then plug the flash drive into the new PC, turn it on and choose custom install. Once it's installed, you activate it with your serial number.

 

[hypernima]

...Maybe? You can't clean upgrade from XP to 7. You have to do a custom since it basically won't retain anything of importance besides storing your old data files or Windows_Old
I think.

I'd just install 7 twice and avoid any problems. It's a fast install.

blah guess I have to buy a fresh copy since im doing a new computer then

 

[Gareth Bale]

blah guess I have to buy a fresh copy since im doing a new computer then

You don't have to unless you don't have a PC to download it to. Otherwise choose the disk version from the student site. It should add it automatically to your cart for an extra £10 (or however much in your currency).

 

[Smokey]

Yeah, if you want a "clean" looking PC, have all the cables routed to the back of the case. You can then use zip ties to keep them neat and tidy so you can close the back of your case.

Heh, that's what I need to do one day.

Not much different from how it is now. The pump is turned to a different angle now so that the tubes aren't as twisted. Also the fan cord hanging from the top of the radiator is off in the space between the PSU and the radiator. Gonna have to do something with those cords hanging to the left as that's where the graphics card is gonna go. There's some space to the left since there's no DVD drives beyond the top.

Doesn't appear to affect my GPU temps when playing (in the 60s) or my CPU temps too much so I just leave it *shrug*

 

[hypernima]

You don't have to unless you don't have a PC to download it to. Otherwise choose the disk version from the student site. It should add it automatically to your cart for an extra £10 (or however much in your currency).

But don't I need a full version of Windows in order to upgrade?

 

[Hazaro]

But don't I need a full version of Windows in order to upgrade?

Few posts up.

 

[The Albatross]

GAF, I turn to you. So, I built a computer a few years ago and it seems like the motherboard died. Not a big deal, I was sort of itching for a new one so that I could play new games.

So here is my question:

I legitimately own Windows 7 Ultimate. I actually was one of those idiots who had a Windows 7 Party and Microsoft gave me a copy for free -- awesome. I have it installed on this computer that just completely shit the bed (it's FUBAR, no POST motherboard dead). If I built a new computer -- probably following the guide from the OP for the $sub-600 -- could I install my legit, owned, legal, happy copy of Win 7 on my new machine with the same serial, given that my old computer is now gone and in the dust?

 

[Kneecap]

Long-time lurker, first-time poster. I don't know how to format the post well so I hope its readable.

Your Current Specs: C2Duo E8500/4GB RAM/Gigabyte EP45-UD3P/ GeFoirce GTX 460
Budget: USA $1700 for all, including peripherals and monitor
Main Use: Mainly Gaming, but some general usage.
Monitor Resolution: Now at 1680x1050, this build will be at 1920x1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Skyrim, SWTOR, new RPG, FPS, Strategy games
Are reusing any parts?: except for mouse, all new parts
When will you build?: ready to pull the trigger, unless major problems with my list
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, casual.


The first items are in the OP, so I have no questions about those. The items after OS/Software are my choices.
(Prices are rounded.)

What Model (Price)
Motherboard-- ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 ($160)
Processor-- Intel Core i5-2500K ($220)
CPU Cooler-- Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10 212P-G1 ($30)
Hard Drive-- SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 HD204UI 2TB 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal ($80)
Optical-- ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM ($20)
OS/Software-- Windows 7 Home Premium ($100)

Power supply-- Corsair HX650W ($120)
Graphics-- SAPPHIRE 100312-3SR Radeon HD 6950 Dirt3 Edition 2GB ($265)
SSD-- Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2CCA 2.5" 128GB SATA ($250)
Case-- Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced ($90)
RAM-- G.SKILL Sniper Low Voltage Series 8GB (2x4GB) F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 ($70)
Speakers-- Logitech Z323 30 Watts (RMS) 2.1 Speaker System ($58)
Monitor-- ASUS VW246H Glossy Black 24" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor ($200)
Keyboard-- Logitech Keyboard K120 ($14)

Total ($1,677)

There are two 128 GB Crucial M4s available on newegg, with the only difference being the serial numbers. One is $249 (CT128M4SSD2CCA) and one is $218 (CT128M4SSD2).
Does anyone know the difference between these two?

Will a Sapphire 6950 fit in the case? Will the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus fit?

Do I need more case fans?
Do I need to buy any additional cables?

I looked at the AS Rock Web site and this memory was explicity approved for the ASROCK P67. The memory listed on the OP was not.

I like to run with at least 4AA on games, so at 1920x1080 will this ASUS monitor benefit from 2GB VRAM?

Thanks for any and all comments/help.

 

[Gvaz]

Save yourself $20 on the ram and just get these instead:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231424

 

[Tallshortman]

Long-time lurker, first-time poster. I don't know how to format the post well so I hope its readable.

Your Current Specs: C2Duo E8500/4GB RAM/Gigabyte EP45-UD3P/ GeFoirce GTX 460
Budget: USA $1700 for all, including peripherals and monitor
Main Use: Mainly Gaming, but some general usage.
Monitor Resolution: Now at 1680x1050, this build will be at 1920x1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Skyrim, SWTOR, new RPG, FPS, Strategy games
Are reusing any parts?: except for mouse, all new parts
When will you build?: ready to pull the trigger, unless major problems with my list
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, casual.


The first items are in the OP, so I have no questions about those. The items after OS/Software are my choices.
(Prices are rounded.)

What Model (Price)
Motherboard-- ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 ($160)
Processor-- Intel Core i5-2500K ($220)
CPU Cooler-- Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10 212P-G1 ($30)
Hard Drive-- SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 HD204UI 2TB 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal ($80)
Optical-- ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM ($20)
OS/Software-- Windows 7 Home Premium ($100)

Power supply-- Corsair HX650W ($120)
Graphics-- SAPPHIRE 100312-3SR Radeon HD 6950 Dirt3 Edition 2GB ($265)
SSD-- Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2CCA 2.5" 128GB SATA ($250)
Case-- Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced ($90)
RAM-- G.SKILL Sniper Low Voltage Series 8GB (2x4GB) F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 ($70)
Speakers-- Logitech Z323 30 Watts (RMS) 2.1 Speaker System ($58)
Monitor-- ASUS VW246H Glossy Black 24" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor ($200)
Keyboard-- Logitech Keyboard K120 ($14)

Total ($1,677)

There are two 128 GB Crucial M4s available on newegg, with the only difference being the serial numbers. One is $249 (CT128M4SSD2CCA) and one is $218 (CT128M4SSD2).
Does anyone know the difference between these two?

Will a Sapphire 6950 fit in the case? Will the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus fit?

Do I need more case fans?
Do I need to buy any additional cables?

I looked at the AS Rock Web site and this memory was explicity approved for the ASROCK P67. The memory listed on the OP was not.

I like to run with at least 4AA on games, so at 1920x1080 will this ASUS monitor benefit from 2GB VRAM?

Thanks for any and all comments/help.

Yes the 6950 will fit that case and it should fit without removing any of the drive bays. Worst case scenario is just remove the drive bay in front of the card (very easy since that case is designed to easily remove the bays).

2GB of RAM will benefit you on a small number of games at 1080p but most times you will not see a difference between the 1GB and 2GB models. It's only at higher resolutions that you may start seeing VRAM bottlenecks with a 1GB card.

 

[black_vegeta]

How is it going Kadey?

 

[childplease]

September 19th is currently the most credible release date rumor/leak.

When can we expect benchmarks then ?

Hardware manufacturers usually give out samples to websites way ahead of time to conduct benchmarks and previews correct ?

 

[Tallshortman]

When can we expect benchmarks then ?

Hardware manufacturers usually give out samples to websites way ahead of time to conduct benchmarks and previews correct ?

It really depends. I wouldn't count on reliable benchmarks until 1-2 weeks before launch since AMD stealth launched Llano last time. Also, the semi-reliable manufacturer that leaked the release date also stated that production doesn't start until this month so they likely won't even have final builds to give out before the end of the month. Don't trust any "benchmarks" floating around atm. They've all been proven to be fake.

 

[RS4-]

Heh, that's what I need to do one day.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz227/dbswisha/IMAG0250.jpg

Not much different from how it is now. The pump is turned to a different angle now so that the tubes aren't as twisted. Also the fan cord hanging from the top of the radiator is off in the space between the PSU and the radiator. Gonna have to do something with those cords hanging to the left as that's where the graphics card is gonna go. There's some space to the left since there's no DVD drives beyond the top.

Doesn't appear to affect my GPU temps when playing (in the 60s) or my CPU temps too much so I just leave it *shrug*

I've got to clean mine up when I get my replacement fans. So ghetto running the two 80mm ones under my HDDs :|

I have to clean up my wiring too and do something about that USB 3.0 thing wrapped around my GPU. Oh and for the hell of it, get matching colors for my SATA cables and pop in a new sound card.

Even with the lousy fans and bad wiring I still get good temps.

Smokey, did you remove the fan grill on the PSU? I had to do it so I could actually close the case filter properly. You can swap out the PSU grill with the top case exhaust grill to keep it black. Too bad it has the Corsair sticker on it.

 

[Smokey]

I've got to clean mine up when I get my replacement fans. So ghetto running the two 80mm ones under my HDDs :|

I have to clean up my wiring too and do something about that USB 3.0 thing wrapped around my GPU. Oh and for the hell of it, get matching colors for my SATA cables and pop in a new sound card.

Even with the lousy fans and bad wiring I still get good temps.

Smokey, did you remove the fan grill on the PSU? I had to do it so I could actually close the case filter properly. You can swap out the PSU grill with the top case exhaust grill to keep it black. Too bad it has the Corsair sticker on it.

I think the way the motherboard is placed makes it tougher to have a tidy wiring job. In can definitely be done, but it would require an effort that I seem to lack!

And no I did not remove the PSU grill on mine.

 

[pirata]

Thanks for the Windows advice, everyone! I guess the easiest route would be to order the version with the back-up disc for a few extra dollars on Microsoft's website, huh?

 

[·feist·]

Thought I posted this weeks ago (not sure if anyone else has already), but for all the Fractal Design Define R3 and R2 users here, FD released a USB 3.0 front I/O kit some time ago.

http://i.imgur.com/Kh9ba.jpg

Doesn't seem like it will become a running change on the R3, unless they do a proper Define R4, so current and future users just have to install it themselves. Very simple.

Very cool that they're doing that. For the rest of us with a USB 3.0 header on their motherboard, but no ports on the case, Bitfenix is offering a solution too. All you need is $25 and a free 3.5" bay.

http://i.imgur.com/whZr5.jpg

One of the best externals (especially now that more companies are producing boards with internal 2x2 USB 3.0 connections, instead of just 1x2 USB 3.0), but I still prefer BitFenix's internal USB 3.0 adapter

http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/accessories/internal-usb3-adapter#overview
https://store.bitfenix.com/internal usb 3.0 adapter

Lian Li was also one of the first to offer one.

Lian Li UC-01 - internal USB 3.0
http://www.lian-li.com/v2/en/product/product06.php?pr_index=575&cl_index=2&sc_index=50&ss_index=131

On the external front, the ones that come with some ASRock and Asus motherboards are nice.

Asus Front Panel USB 3.0 Box and USB 3.0 Module

ASRock front panel USB 3.0 with PCI adapter

Cooler Master USB 3.0 adapter with removable 3.5" to 5.25" bay adapter
http://cmstore.coolermaster-usa.com/product_info.php?products_id=667

 

[·feist·]

Have done all of this, but to be honest I'm not having a lot of luck with it. Try as I might I can neither find the height of the built in heatsinks on the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO, nor can I find the distance from the center of the CPU to the edge of the ram slots.

I do however know the height of the ram (52.5mm) and the initial clearance of the coolers I'm looking at (from 35mm to 50mm). So none of those could clear the ram, but obviously depends on how much space there is between the CPU and the RAM (and the width of each heatsink + fan, which I also have the data for).

Oh, and it seems that all of the coolers are abnormally large... mostly because I'm going for as quiet as possible.

Which cooler, board, case, and ram are you going with?

GAF, I turn to you. So, I built a computer a few years ago and it seems like the motherboard died. Not a big deal, I was sort of itching for a new one so that I could play new games.

So here is my question:

I legitimately own Windows 7 Ultimate. I actually was one of those idiots who had a Windows 7 Party and Microsoft gave me a copy for free -- awesome. I have it installed on this computer that just completely shit the bed (it's FUBAR, no POST motherboard dead). If I built a new computer -- probably following the guide from the OP for the $sub-600 -- could I install my legit, owned, legal, happy copy of Win 7 on my new machine with the same serial, given that my old computer is now gone and in the dust?

OEM, or retail? Either will work. OEM just requires an extra validation step.

 

[XANDER CAGE]

Hello there PC GAF!

I only fairly recently changed out my graphics card, but I'm starting to think my PC is getting a little long in the tooth. I'm wondering whether any of these parts could be held over for a new PC or if I should scrap this machine and build a new PC altogether - I'm looking for something mainly for gaming and image processing, as I do (2D) animation work.

Your Current Specs: AMD Phenom II X4 965 / 4GB DDR3 RAM / Gigabyte GA 770TA UD3/ ATI Radeon 6850
Budget: Maybe in the 500 dollar range? US, here. I have an excellent monitor/case/mouse/keyboard, so it's mostly bitz advice I'm looking for.
Main Use: Gaming, general usage, image processing
Monitor Resolution: Dual 1920x1080 + 1600x1200 Wacom Cintiq 21ux
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3
Are reusing any parts?: That's what I need help with!
When will you build?: Hopefully within the next few months, pre-Battlefield 3
Will you be overclocking?: No

Thanks!

EDIT - added motherboard!

 

[RS4-]

I wish my mobo came with the front USB 3.0 panel. I think the Asus ones is open so it allows you to put an SSD there as well.

Smokey, I think we needed an extra half inch behind the case and maybe an inch or two below where the SATA headers are. I would be completely happy with FT02 air cooling goodness with something less than the 800d in terms of size.

 

[LaneDS]

So I'm ordering the Coolermaster Hyper 212+ for the 2500k I've ordered, and heard it comes with thermal compound (but don't see it listed where I'm getting it from). Assuming that it does, should I go with that or get a tube of Arctic Silver or something else? It's been a while and I'm not sure what is regarding as the best paste these days.

 

[childplease]

Dell currently has it's Dell U2311H on sale for 90 dollars off. Deal will only last for the next 24 or so hours.

Anyone here have this monitor, I have heard its the best monitor you can get for under 400 dollars.

Specs look good but the gray to gray response time of 8 ms would bug me, wonder if these are just incorrect manufacturer specifications.

Should I jump on this ?

 

[Hazaro]

Long-time lurker, first-time poster. I don't know how to format the post well so I hope its readable.
Power supply-- Corsair HX650W ($120)
SSD-- Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2CCA 2.5" 128GB SATA ($250)
RAM-- G.SKILL Sniper Low Voltage Series 8GB (2x4GB) F3-12800CL9D-

There are two 128 GB Crucial M4s available on newegg, with the only difference being the serial numbers. One is $249 (CT128M4SSD2CCA) and one is $218 (CT128M4SSD2).
Does anyone know the difference between these two?

Will a Sapphire 6950 fit in the case? Will the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus fit?

Do I need more case fans?
Do I need to buy any additional cables?

I looked at the AS Rock Web site and this memory was explicity approved for the ASROCK P67. The memory listed on the OP was not.

I like to run with at least 4AA on games, so at 1920x1080 will this ASUS monitor benefit from 2GB VRAM?

Thanks for any and all comments/help.

As long as those low voltage sticks run at 1.5V you are fine. SB was designed for that and should run at that.
6950 will fit
212 will fit

M4 differences are probably a mounting bracket and retail package included vs. nothing else but the drive

Motherboard comes with SATA cables

Dropping this much I'd suggest getting the HX750, AX750, or X750 (Seasonic). 650 is a tad less than you'd want for two cards.

Hello there PC GAF!

I only fairly recently changed out my graphics card, but I'm starting to think my PC is getting a little long in the tooth. I'm wondering whether any of these parts could be held over for a new PC or if I should scrap this machine and build a new PC altogether - I'm looking for something mainly for gaming and image processing, as I do (2D) animation work.

Your Current Specs: AMD Phenom II X4 965 / 4GB DDR3 RAM / Gigabyte GA 770TA UD3/ ATI Radeon 6850
Budget: Maybe in the 500 dollar range? US, here. I have an excellent monitor/case/mouse/keyboard, so it's mostly bitz advice I'm looking for.
Main Use: Gaming, general usage, image processing
Monitor Resolution: Dual 1920x1080 + 1600x1200 Wacom Cintiq 21ux
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3
Are reusing any parts?: That's what I need help with!
When will you build?: Hopefully within the next few months, pre-Battlefield 3
Will you be overclocking?: No

Thanks!

EDIT - added motherboard!

6850 isn't a slouch, just depends what you want from your GPU and how much you want to spend.
If your 2D work is important and can take usage of more than 4 cores I'd wait a month and look at bulldozer benchmarks. Otherwise keep the DDR3 and 6850 and nab a 2500K.
When BF3 comes out and you think the 6850 doesn't cut what you want, then upgrade.

So I'm ordering the Coolermaster Hyper 212+ for the 2500k I've ordered, and heard it comes with thermal compound (but don't see it listed where I'm getting it from). Assuming that it does, should I go with that or get a tube of Arctic Silver or something else? It's been a while and I'm not sure what is regarding as the best paste these days.

Paste on the 212 is good.

 

[Tallshortman]

Hello there PC GAF!

I only fairly recently changed out my graphics card, but I'm starting to think my PC is getting a little long in the tooth. I'm wondering whether any of these parts could be held over for a new PC or if I should scrap this machine and build a new PC altogether - I'm looking for something mainly for gaming and image processing, as I do (2D) animation work.

Your Current Specs: AMD Phenom II X4 965 / 4GB DDR3 RAM / Gigabyte GA 770TA UD3/ ATI Radeon 6850
Budget: Maybe in the 500 dollar range? US, here. I have an excellent monitor/case/mouse/keyboard, so it's mostly bitz advice I'm looking for.
Main Use: Gaming, general usage, image processing
Monitor Resolution: Dual 1920x1080 + 1600x1200 Wacom Cintiq 21ux
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3
Are reusing any parts?: That's what I need help with!
When will you build?: Hopefully within the next few months, pre-Battlefield 3
Will you be overclocking?: No

Thanks!

EDIT - added motherboard!

I would hold off on upgrading until BD comes out so you can make a more informed decision on BD or SB. Or, even wait for Ivy Bridge or Komodo in 2012. Really, the 965 should hold you over just fine and the upgrade to i5 2500k is not a huge jump gaming performance wise until you get to 70+ fps range. Your current rig will run 1080p BF3 on medium settings with 30fps. You can overclock it if you're worried about CPU bottleneck.

GPU wise there's no point in upgrading that unless you want to CF a 6850, otherwise wait for the next gen AMD and Nvidia cards coming out Q4 2011-Q1 2012.

 

[RS4-]

Dell currently has it's Dell U2311H on sale for 90 dollars off. Deal will only last for the next 24 or so hours.

Anyone here have this monitor, I have heard its the best monitor you can get for under 400 dollars.

Specs look good but the gray to gray response time of 8 ms would bug me, wonder if these are just incorrect manufacturer specifications.

Should I jump on this ?

It's one of the better IPS monitors for gaming (the other is the HP ZR24W)

The Dell monitors have some bad quality control issues with the 2311 and 2410 lately though with purple (and a few other colors) tinting; hence lots of complaints and customers continually exchanging them until they get the "perfect" one.

So I can't say if they actually made a revision and fixed things

 

[Althane]

After talking to friends, going on to other forums, and asking around here, this is what I've gotten for my (more or less) final build:

Das Album o' Pictures!

I'll check back on this topic, but I thought you guys might like to go through that and critique my choices! =D