childplease
Banned
RS4- said:
Thank you for the advice. Guess I will hold off for now. Now it is time to do some research on the HP ZR24W.
"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Thank you for the advice. Guess I will hold off for now. Now it is time to do some research on the HP ZR24W.
childplease
Banned
RS4- said:
229 before taxes.
toastyToast
Member
RS4- said:
If you contact Silverstone you can get one sent out. It's $12 +shipping
I asked if I could get it sent to Australia but they said no ;_;
Sketch_Turntable
Member
My video card needs the UPC for the rebate, but there is a sticker that has a barcode on it.
Is the "real" UPC hidden under the sticket and I'm gonna get f'd over? Anyone have experience with this?
my card is a Galaxy brand.
Is the "real" UPC hidden under the sticket and I'm gonna get f'd over? Anyone have experience with this?
my card is a Galaxy brand.
gibon3z said:
In that case it might be worth getting the 2311 or waiting for the 2410 to go on sale. Just do a lot of reading on various sites and ask around.
toasty_T said:
Yeah, I'm having a little problem with SS service and them ignoring emails and such but I'll ask them anyway. Not that I actually have any usb 3 devices around (I think) and I have two ports right now anyway not being used.
I'll probably pick up something like this for my HDDs though:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=304&area=usa
edit - oh, gibon3z, you're shopping on the Canadian Dell site eh?
coopolon said:
I think he's on the Canadian dell site where it's currently 229
Hazaro said:
its definetly the PSU, but as i said a friend lend it to me, so i cant use the warranty.
Its a fixed PSU btw, i think they just messed up something in there that is vibrating and making the noise. Im gonna get a proper Corsair and be done with shitty PSUs, but im gonna have to live with this whine for over a month and it kinda scares me in the sense that it could do permanent damage?, mh :/
NullPointer
Member
OK, my beast finally arrived! But, like I expected I'm having a bitch of a time configuring my multiple displays. It should be simple.
I've got crossfired Radeon 6950s. I have two flat panel monitors plugged in (via DVI) and one HDTV plugged in via HDMI. I've used Catalyst control panel to select my left desktop flat panel as my primary display.
I have a couple of problems, but here is the first:
When I bring up Windows+P here are my options and results:
Computer Only: This activates my HDTV and disables my other monitors.
Duplicate: This duplicates my HDTV and second monitor.
Extend: This brings up my HDTV and my second monitor.
Projector only: This shows both my primary and secondary monitor. The HDTV is disabled.
In a perfect world this is how I'd like it to work:
Computer Only: Activate my primary monitor only.
Duplicate: Duplicate primary+secondary (or hell, even primary+HDTV, either or is fine)
Extend: Activate primary and secondary monitor
Projector Only: HDTV only
In addition it seems like anything I plug into the second video card isn't detected at all. Documentation on Windows+P (Presentation Mode) and Catalyst Control Center is seemingly nonexistent as well.
Does anybody know what I'm missing? Anybody else using a dual monitor + HDTV setup? Or maybe know how I can switch which monitors correspond to which Windows+P mode, or how to detect displays plugged into my second video card?
This is kindof maddening.
I've got crossfired Radeon 6950s. I have two flat panel monitors plugged in (via DVI) and one HDTV plugged in via HDMI. I've used Catalyst control panel to select my left desktop flat panel as my primary display.
I have a couple of problems, but here is the first:
When I bring up Windows+P here are my options and results:
Computer Only: This activates my HDTV and disables my other monitors.
Duplicate: This duplicates my HDTV and second monitor.
Extend: This brings up my HDTV and my second monitor.
Projector only: This shows both my primary and secondary monitor. The HDTV is disabled.
In a perfect world this is how I'd like it to work:
Computer Only: Activate my primary monitor only.
Duplicate: Duplicate primary+secondary (or hell, even primary+HDTV, either or is fine)
Extend: Activate primary and secondary monitor
Projector Only: HDTV only
In addition it seems like anything I plug into the second video card isn't detected at all. Documentation on Windows+P (Presentation Mode) and Catalyst Control Center is seemingly nonexistent as well.
Does anybody know what I'm missing? Anybody else using a dual monitor + HDTV setup? Or maybe know how I can switch which monitors correspond to which Windows+P mode, or how to detect displays plugged into my second video card?
This is kindof maddening.
I'm only using two monitors and I don't really play around with CCC unless it's just to change sharpness settings but I use a program called Ultramon instead. That might help with your multi display problem; so it's worth giving a shot. Really small download file as well, easy to manage displays.
This might be a bit of a longshot, but does anyone have any particular experience with IDE controller cards? New Z68 board doesn't have any IDE ports, but I'm not ready to give up on my beloved PlexWriter Premium yet (because it's still the best drive for DAE that I've ever owned). But I've heard of issues with PCI/PCIe controller cards, especially with optical drives. An alternative would be IDE to SATA adapaters, but I think those often have the same issue (I had an Abit one from back when I had an i875P board, but that was HDD only I think). So before I just go on NewEgg and order one hoping for the best, I figured I'd see if anyone else has any insight.
Tallshortman
Member
NullPointer said:
I believe you'll need an active Display port to get the 3 monitors. The way CF works is that it only outputs to one card while the other is a slave card that boosts the performance of the other. So the Display port dongle/add-on will allow you to plug in 2+ monitors into the card that's outputting the image.
Here is the list of AMD approved ones:
http://support.amd.com/us/eyefinity/Pages/eyefinity-dongles.aspx
Low quality dongles are known to have issues with eyefinity.
Please note that for you you'll need to buy an active Display port dongle for running more than 2 monitors. After you get the dongle you want (to HDMI, to DVI, to VGA) you just connect it to the card and then to the monitors you are using.
After that you can toggle each monitor off and on with the AMD CCC software.
This is the only way to run 3 monitors with CF on. Otherwise you'll need to disable CF whenever you use the 3rd monitor.
So, your setup with eyefinity would have 2 of your monitors connected to two of the Cards output slots, then the third monitor will use the active Display Port dongle to connect to the remaining card output slot.
GamePnoy74
Member
I'm in the same boat as you...don't know how long I can wait for a firmware fix by intel while my system is still down, tempted to just get a crucial m4 instead.LaneDS said:
NullPointer
Member
I thought Eyefinity was just when you wanted multiple monitors to act as one single monitor with the image extended across all of them. Are you saying I'd need a dongle just to keep three monitors active at one time even if I'm not extending the desktop to all three?Tallshortman said:
Really, perfect world for me is two distinct modes. The dual desktop monitors for when I'm at the desk, for work and mouse/keyboard gaming. Then an alternate mode where everything is on the HDTV for watching videos or playing comfy couch gamepad approved games. Should this be possible without a dongle?
Regardless, thanks for some of this info.
Tallshortman
Member
NullPointer said:
Eyefinity is for 2+ monitor single GPU support, but one of it's optional features is to run the monitors like a single monitor. The dongle is more of an adapter so it only affects the 3rd monitor, it is not connected to the other 2 in any way. Thus, you don't need to dongle for the other two monitors at all, they'll run just fine without the dongle.
The way you can do what you're looking for is to just disable the 3rd monitor when you're at your desk. Then, whenever you want to game/watch media on your HDTV, just activate the third monitor and move everything over or disable the other 2 monitors which would do this automatically.
Once you're set up, none of this requires any physical tinkering, all you need to do is configure what you want in CCC. I don't use multiple monitors but I think you can save custom setups in CCC, thus you can decide which monitor to display the desktop on in saved configuration of your choice..
NullPointer
Member
Well I can get the dual monitor setup(by choosing Projector only with Windows+P and get the HDTV only using Windows+P with PC-Only selected (I have no idea why I have to use these named settings or how to change them), but even when I watch things on the HDTV audio is still coming from PC speakers rather than via HDMI through the TV. So from the comfy couch all the audio is from the right hand side, which is a bummer. I figured HDMI would transfer audio as well.
Sooo close.
Edit: Looks like I can switch the default sound device between my PC speakers and HDMI via my RealTek audio device manager. Its a little clunky but it works without messing with any cables
Now if I coudl only make some desktop icons to swap modes I'll be in heaven, but here on Earth is pretty good for right now.
Sooo close.
Edit: Looks like I can switch the default sound device between my PC speakers and HDMI via my RealTek audio device manager. Its a little clunky but it works without messing with any cables
Now if I coudl only make some desktop icons to swap modes I'll be in heaven, but here on Earth is pretty good for right now.Spent the night playing with my new GTX 560 ti. I know I have a bit of a bottleneck with my e8500 Core 2 Duo but it will do me just fine until I can upgrade my proc, MB and ram later in the year. It is so much faster than my old HD 4850 which was pretty decent and served me well since Dec 2008 when I built this machine.
MidgarBlowedUp
Member
NullPointer said:
I feel your pain.
I can't help you much but, I can provide you with a few tips.
Win + Left Arrow toggle docks half the screen starting by the left half.
Win + Right Arrow toggle docks half the screen starting by the right half.
Win + Shift + Left Arrow moves the window one monitor left in a multi-monitor display.
Win + Shift + Right Arrow moves the window one monitor right in a multi-monitor display.
You can create shortcuts to place on the desktop that can be used for switching displays.
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/37625-display-switch-shortcut-create.html
For Audio I had to download the software for my motherboard manufacturer. (Oh yeah, I think ATI has a separate HDMI audio driver you need to download) Mine was the VIA HD audio deck. Then I stuck it in the system tray so I can easily switch from HDMI for the living room to PC speakers in the bedroom. The easiest way to do this is to set the default output as HDMI since that is the output that goes to the HDTV when I'm not gaming in the living room the sound switches to my PC speakers but, as soon as I connect to the HDTV the HDMI audio fires up. If I set it up the other way around then I'm manually switching to get HDMI audio all the time since the PC speakers are always considered audio outputs as they are always connected. (I mean HDMI is too but it's monitor dependent.)
Now, on my Nvidia control panel you can assign each monitor a different number. For instance, I can make my CRT monitor the default primary and then my TV the secondary.
If I remember correctly you need to right click on the monitor in the ATI control panel to get to the right menu to set up the monitors correctly. The issue though is that if you disable the primary you loose all your color calibrations when you switch back. It's all pretty frustrating to me. I guess all the software designers don't understand the situation some of us are in. For instance, I like either 1 TV or 1 monitor being used for gaming, then 2 monitors for working. So that's 3 different setups at any given time. 1x CRT TV or 1x CRT Monitor or 1x CRT Monitor + 1x LCD with 90* rotation and scaled to 900x1200@ 75Hz.
For extending wallpapers I use this freewarehttp://dualmonitortool.sourceforge.net/.
This is also free but, I've never tried it. http://www.displayfusion.com/Compare/
If you want to use a laptop for the keyboard control of another computer synergy is excellent. I use it for controlling my Hackintosh and HTPC from one keybaord and I use it on my netbook to control my HTPC from my couch. http://synergy-foss.org/. If you have a Hackintosh or Mac you will need to get JEM, which is a modded version of Synergy.
And finally, something that might do what you, and I, need is Murgeemon as it supposedly allows you to save a multiple monitor configuration and revert back to that configuration with a desktop shortcut. full version is $5.00.
-edit-
Almost forgot about Hydra-vision which was designed for multiple monitors.
http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/Pages/hydravision.aspx
I hope some of this helps or at least points you in another direction to give you ideas.
installing windows atm but finally ive come back to the master race!
ColonialRaptor
Member
Just took a pic of the inside of my freshly cleaned and updated install in my Corsair 700D case and I thought I'd share with you all.
It is:
Case: Corsair Obsidian 700D (the one without the window, I hate windows, love class)
CPU: Intel i7-860 @ 3.5 cooled by Corsair H50
Mobo: Gigabyte P55A-UD5
Ram: Corsair Dominator DDR3 1600 2x4GB
Gfx: 2x HD6950 unlocked to 6970 running at 890/1385
Sfx: Auzentech X-Forte 7.1 Soundcard
PSU: Corsair AX850 90+ Gold
HDD1: GSkill Falcon 2 SSD
HDD2: WD Black 2TB
HDD3: WD Green 2TB
HDD4: WD Green 2TB
HDD5: WD Black 1TB
Disc: HDDVD, Bluray, DVDRW Combo Drive
That's it all. I love my PC, it's my favorite thing. In a house fire, I'd grab the box and probably nothing else.
It is:
Case: Corsair Obsidian 700D (the one without the window, I hate windows, love class)
CPU: Intel i7-860 @ 3.5 cooled by Corsair H50
Mobo: Gigabyte P55A-UD5
Ram: Corsair Dominator DDR3 1600 2x4GB
Gfx: 2x HD6950 unlocked to 6970 running at 890/1385
Sfx: Auzentech X-Forte 7.1 Soundcard
PSU: Corsair AX850 90+ Gold
HDD1: GSkill Falcon 2 SSD
HDD2: WD Black 2TB
HDD3: WD Green 2TB
HDD4: WD Green 2TB
HDD5: WD Black 1TB
Disc: HDDVD, Bluray, DVDRW Combo Drive
That's it all. I love my PC, it's my favorite thing. In a house fire, I'd grab the box and probably nothing else.
ConstructMe
Banned
SalsaShark said:
I have a simular setup to you and my psu whines while the pc is off!
NullPointer
Member
NiceColonialRaptor said:
I'm starting to feel the same way and I've only had my rig for a few hours. Long enough to get everything plugged in and organized. The only game I have is Left 4 Dead, but its oh so nice to run it on max everything in a window and still get insane fps.
Outputting netflix to the HDTV hasn't been as nice as watching it on the xbox yet. Maybe I still need to fiddle with some stuff. That and get new batteries for the wireless keyboard, mouse and gamepad. Well at least the mouse works at the moment ;P
Holy hell. Thanks for the details. I've got some research to do.MidgarBlowedUp said:
So now that I'm in PC-GAF is there some kind of cape I can wear or something?
CarbonatedFalcon
Member
24-Hour Sale on Newegg today. Best of the deals I saw was a Corsair TX750 PSU for $85 with promo code after MIR. (Non-Modular) MSRP of $145.
Would definitely buy early for my build now if it was the HX750 modular version though...
Would definitely buy early for my build now if it was the HX750 modular version though...
Hazaro said:
Tallshortman, Hazaro and Gvaz, thanks for the comments.
I changed the RAM to your recommendation Gvaz partly because those run at 1.5v, partly for the price.
As for the PSU, I don't want to run crossfire or SLI so perhaps my HX650 was a bit overkill. What I intended was future proofing, but not dual carding.
ColonialRaptor said:Just took a pic of the inside of my freshly cleaned and updated install in my Corsair 700D case and I thought I'd share with you all.
That's it all. I love my PC, it's my favorite thing. In a house fire, I'd grab the box and probably nothing else.
I also would jump over my misses to grab my PC.
Nice rig mate. While were are on the topic of neat and tidy PC's. I cleaned mine up last week with some NZXT braided cables.
i7-930 @~ 3.6GHz
6GB Corsair 1600 XMS3
2x 5870
64GB Corsair Nova SSD
10TBs over 5 HDDs
Zalman 750
Guerrillas in the Mist
Member
Hello, PC-GAF, I've been thinking of building a PC for the first time soon, depending on how my finances are in the next month. I've cobbled together something quickly on ebuyer.com to get a rough idea of the price range:
CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache Retail Boxed Processor - £169.06
Motherboard: Asus P8P67 LE R3 P67 Socket 1155 8 Channel HD Audio ATX Motherboard - £103.20
GPU: Sapphire HD 6870 1GB GDDR5 DVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Graphics Card - £142.56
RAM: G-Skill 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz RipjawsX Memory Kit CL9 (9-9-9-24) 1.5V - £48.54
PSU: Antec TruePower New 650W Modular PSU - £62.98
Case: Antec One Hundred 100 Case - £43.88
HDD: Western Digital WD15EARS 1.5TB Hard Drive SATAII 5400rpm 64MB Cache - OEM Caviar Green - £49.98
Optical Drive: LG GH22NS70 22x DVD±RW with DL & RAM SATA Optical Drive - OEM Black - £13.98
That comes to £634.19 overall. Obviously I'd shop around more if I were actually buying, I was just getting an idea of parts and prices.
Any major faux pas here? Anything under or over-powered? I await the master race's opinion.
CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache Retail Boxed Processor - £169.06
Motherboard: Asus P8P67 LE R3 P67 Socket 1155 8 Channel HD Audio ATX Motherboard - £103.20
GPU: Sapphire HD 6870 1GB GDDR5 DVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Graphics Card - £142.56
RAM: G-Skill 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz RipjawsX Memory Kit CL9 (9-9-9-24) 1.5V - £48.54
PSU: Antec TruePower New 650W Modular PSU - £62.98
Case: Antec One Hundred 100 Case - £43.88
HDD: Western Digital WD15EARS 1.5TB Hard Drive SATAII 5400rpm 64MB Cache - OEM Caviar Green - £49.98
Optical Drive: LG GH22NS70 22x DVD±RW with DL & RAM SATA Optical Drive - OEM Black - £13.98
That comes to £634.19 overall. Obviously I'd shop around more if I were actually buying, I was just getting an idea of parts and prices.
Any major faux pas here? Anything under or over-powered? I await the master race's opinion.
Psychotext
Member
Building two PCs, but the one I think could be a problem is...·feist· said:
Thermaltake Frio (165mm / 139mm / 98mm), ASUS P8Z68-V PRO, Corsair Graphite 600T (obviously this wont be an issue), Corsair Vengence.
I can live with losing the last ram slot, and hopefully that's all it will take.
Tallshortman
Member
Guerrillas in the Mist said:
Everything is fine except I would recommend getting a 7200 rpm Hard Drive if it's going to be your only or OS installed drive. I would recommend a Caviar Black or Samsung Spinpoint F3. Or, you can keep the Caviar Green which is a good secondary drive and buy a small SSD for the OS install.
Psychotext
Member
Hmm... this is new to me. I've got two options for buying an i7 2600k. 1 unlocked, 1 not.
I know the difference, but is it worth it? I assume there's no way around the locking otherwise and you're left to overclock via other methods?
I know the difference, but is it worth it? I assume there's no way around the locking otherwise and you're left to overclock via other methods?
·feist· said:One of the best externals (especially now that more companies are producing boards with internal 2x2 USB 3.0 connections, instead of just 1x2 USB 3.0), but I still prefer BitFenix's internal USB 3.0 adapter
http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/accessories/internal-usb3-adapter#overview
https://store.bitfenix.com/internal usb 3.0 adapter
Lian Li was also one of the first to offer one.
Lian Li UC-01 - internal USB 3.0
http://www.lian-li.com/v2/en/product/product06.php?pr_index=575&cl_index=2&sc_index=50&ss_index=131
On the external front, the ones that come with some ASRock and Asus motherboards are nice.
Asus Front Panel USB 3.0 Box and USB 3.0 Module
ASRock front panel USB 3.0 with PCI adapter
Cooler Master USB 3.0 adapter with removable 3.5" to 5.25" bay adapter
http://cmstore.coolermaster-usa.com/product_info.php?products_id=667
This is awesome. Thank you. I was sad that the Corsair 650D didn't have USB 3.0 headers, just the normal connectors. So basically 2 3.0 ports are just wasted. The BitFenix solution is perfect. Unfortunately they are out of stock but I've got my email in there so hopefully I'll get an email when they're back in. Only $10 is great too.
I genuinely don't understand why the modern enthusiast cases don't have USB 3.0 header connections with the case.
Psychotext
Member
Ahh, ok, so the other isn't actually a 2600k, but a 2600. Gotcha.xero273 said:
Psychotext
Member
Yeah, I've seen that stuff, will be ordering it for the awkward machine if it looks like it wont fit after building the first one (where I know it isn't going to be a problem).garath said:
iSurvivedTheOutage
Member
PCGAF im about to pull the trigger on my order 560ti DS by evga or asus 560ti
Tallshortman
Member
domlolz said:
560 or 6870 are the best bang for your buck in that range. I'm assuming £150 will net a 560 since you listed it because I'm not familiar with non US pricing.
Tallshortman
Member
I forgot to add this, G.Skill Ripjaws X 4GB (2x2) DDR3 1600Mhz RAM is on sale today on newegg for $25 after using the promo code. Today only though. I just picked up a kit for my future BD build.
PROMO CODE: EMCKBKF55
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...080411-Index-_-DesktopMemory-_-20231427-L011D
PROMO CODE: EMCKBKF55
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...080411-Index-_-DesktopMemory-_-20231427-L011D
iSurvivedTheOutage
Member
TommyT said:
whi one lol?
asus or evga..
Tallshortman said:
I've been considering this since I saw the deal posted earlier. I could upgrade to Sandy Bridge right now for $380, including mobo, CPU, RAM, and cooler.
I just can't bring myself to do it. I know I won't notice the extra speed in Windows, and I don't have a lot of quad-necessary games.
I'm tempted though ><
I almost wish BF3 had run like ass, so that I could be sure of my decision to upgrade.
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
Same price? Asus. If the EVGA is a lot cheaper, I could see going with that.
Tallshortman
Member
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
You'll need to specify since one Asus model has similar factory overclock to the evga while the other has less factory overclocking.
Tallshortman said:
Factory overclocking doesn't really mean much. Definitely not a reason to pick one card over another.
The ASUS is a lot quieter, and cooler, than any of the EVGA models I've seen. Unless we're talking about one of the non-stock cooled EVGA models (I've yet to see temp or noise data on them).
Tallshortman
Member
LordCanti said:
Haha I agree I'm hoping BF3 CPU benchmarks will justify me buying the FX 8100 over the 4100 quad. It's pretty maddening waiting for BD to drop so I can figure out whether I want that or just go with a 2500k upgrade.
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