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[mt1200]

Hi gaf.

I have 2x 2GB OCZ DDR31600Mhz RAMs.

Can I overclock them to 1866Mhz ?.

My mobo: gigabyte ga-890gpa-ud3h.

My RAM DIMMS: http://www.ocztechnology.com/ocz-ddr3-pc3-12800-black-edition-ready-cl7-dual-channel.html

My CPU: Phenom 2 955 - clocked at 3.4GHZ without rising the voltage level (performs well)

 

[woober]

how come i rarely see anybody here buy the $600 build? and almost everyone buying 1000 dollar build...

Like the OP says, for $1000, you get a lot more for what you pay for. Depends on your budget.

So I'm hoping that someone in here could explain to why the following happens. I think I have an idea, but it's probably wrong...

In March I bought a GalaxyTech GTX580. It worked fine for about a month and a half, then it started artifacting like crazy. Called them up, got an RMA. New card worked fine for a month, then started doing the same thing. Got another replacement. Yesterday that replacement started doing the same thing.

Now, after that many, one would think that it could be something in my system. However, I have a new power supply, I've added a beefy UPS to handle any power spikes or outages, etc. I've been doing system builds for 14 years and had never had to RMA a product until now, so even I was starting to think it wasn't so much the card but something in my system doing it.

I did some searching and found that it was happening to people that have other brands of cards, but the same chipset. All operate their PC the same as I do, which is turned on 24/7. Their solution? A cold boot. Cold booting is something I rarely do anymore, so all those times it never occurred to me to try it. I was certain it wouldn't work, but lo and behold, it fixed it. Derp on my part for not trying that before. My cycle was reboot, uninstall drivers, reboot into safe mode, install new drivers, DAMNIT DOESN'T WORK, and throw in my old 4890.

The actual common thing here is that every time it has happened was after Windows did one of it's automatic updates and I woke up to the login screen. Now, one theory on this issue is that the card doesn't get reinitialized from low power usage mode correctly, which is why a cold boot is the only way to fix it. I'm kind of wondering if the win7 login screen goes into a low power mode after a set amount of time, which would explain why this has happened after updates are automatically installed.

Have you checked the temps of your video card after leaving it on 24/7? Sounds like its overheating, which could cause artifacts.

 

[chaosblade]

I need some help. Hoping someone can help me here. I have no idea how it happened, but the bios on my motherboard got reset and everything is at default settings (auto). I'm using an Asus P6T motherboard. So, I'm trying to configure my ram settings in bios to match my Kingston HyperX Ram Triple Channel 1600 mhz modules. Timings are 8-8-8-20. In the bios, these are the settings that I have changed:

Dram frequency - 1600 mhz
Uclk frequency - 3200 mhz
Dram timing control - 8-8-8-20

All my other settings on the motherboard are at auto. Now, after I make those changes and save, Window 7 won't boot anymore. I've managed to get Windows to boot a couple of times but shortly after that, I get the blue screen of death. Also, when I do get it to boot into Windows, the pc only recognizes 8 gigs of ram instead of the 12 that I have installed in the system. I've done memtest and the RAM checks out fine. Do I need to increase the voltage to my RAM? Is that possibly the problem here? I took a look at the RAM modules inside my pc and see that it's rated at 1.7 - 1.9 volts. Do I need to set the RAM voltage in the bios to at least 1.7? That seems awfully high, no?

To fix this problem, I just set everything back to auto in the BIOS and everything is fine again. But when I set it to auto, when I look at cpuz, my memory is rated at around 500 mhz. Anyone know what's going on here?

The RAM is DDR, so it's "effective" speed is double what you see in CPUz. The effective speed is what's advertised so it's technically running at 1000MHz.

And 1.7-1.9 seems high for sure. What CPU/chipset do you have? Assuming you're on an Intel CPU it should be set to 1.65. And I don't know what your exact kit is, but I don't see one with 8-8-8-20 timings, the 12GB kits all have 9-9-9-20. That might make a difference.

Edit: Doh, somehow I missed your board comment. Yeah, it should be set to 1.65 I believe. 1.7-1.9 is for dual channel and AMD boards.

Hi guys, i know this might be a pretty stupid question, but if some of you have an XFX card i need your help.

i tried registering my HD 6950 videocard on the XFX site but it says my personal activation code has been entered incorrectly, i tried entering it in many ways, (xxxxx-xxxxx-xxxxx-xxxxx-xxxxx lower case and upper case) also (xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx upper and lower case) and neither of these worked.

so, um, help? I cant update my drivers otherwise... (My driver is 8.850.0.0)

You can't just download the driver from AMD's website and install it? I have an XFX card and I don't remember if I ever registered it, but I can update the driver just fine that way.

 

[SilverLunar]

You can't just download the driver from AMD's website and install it? I have an XFX card and I don't remember if I ever registered it, but I can update the driver just fine that way.

Is that so? now i feel pretty silly

Which driver is the best option to go for? I read somewhere that there is a driver update that people are sticking with but i don't remembet what it was.

 

[nextgeneration]

The RAM is DDR, so it's "effective" speed is double what you see in CPUz. The effective speed is what's advertised so it's technically running at 1000MHz.

And 1.7-1.9 seems high for sure. What CPU/chipset do you have? Assuming you're on an Intel CPU it should be set to 1.65. And I don't know what your exact kit is, but I don't see one with 8-8-8-20 timings, the 12GB kits all have 9-9-9-20. That might make a difference.

My cpu is Intel i7-975 EE. When I run cpuz, I see that the timings are at 8-8-8-20. Is cpuz wrong? Strangely enough, I can't find much information on my RAM. I opened up my case and see this as the model number: khx 1600c9d32g. There is practically no information on this model, not even on Kingston's site.

Edit - Not sure if this makes any difference, but I have 6 RAM modules, and they're 2 gigs each.

 

[chaosblade]

Is that so? now i feel pretty silly

Which driver is the best option to go for? I read somewhere that there is a driver update that people are sticking with but i don't remembet what it was.

I used the September 2010 (10.9, not sure what the actual revision is) driver because everything they've released after that causes resolution changes, UAC prompts, and some other stuff to take FOREVER. Not a widespread problem, but because of that I haven't really looked into any other driver versions, so I don't know what people are recommending right now.

I think 11.4 added some pretty nice performances boosts to several games though on 68xx and 69xx cards.

@nextgeneration
It's probably reading it right, try changing the timings to 9 and setting the voltage in the bios. Not sure what your bios reads for speed, but mine uses the base clock and not the effective clock, so in my case I'd set the RAM to 800MHz. If you have the option for 1333/1600/1866 MHz it's displaying the DDR speed.

If you're only getting 8GB with six sticks, it sounds like it's running in dual channel mode (so you're only getting 4x2). Haven't used a triple channel motherboard, but I assume there is an option in there you can adjust to force triple channel.

Before you do that though, are you sure memtest checked all six sticks of RAM? If not I'd check them all one at a time first. Unless you checked them individually before, that might be a safe thing to do even if memtest did detect all 12GB, sometimes you can find errors when using one stick but not when using more. Weird how that works.

Edit: And I should also say I'm not 100% sure what forcing triple channel would do if it still can't detect the RAM. If that setting is on "auto" and "dual channel" it would probably be best to leave it for now. Somebody with some experience with that kind of RAM could probably give you a better idea than I could.

 

[piratepwnsninja]

Have you checked the temps of your video card after leaving it on 24/7? Sounds like its overheating, which could cause artifacts.

Meant to add that temps are fine.

 

[nextgeneration]

@nextgeneration
It's probably reading it right, try changing the timings to 9 and setting the voltage in the bios. Not sure what your bios reads for speed, but mine uses the base clock and not the effective clock, so in my case I'd set the RAM to 800MHz. If you have the option for 1333/1600/1866 MHz it's displaying the DDR speed.

If you're only getting 8GB with six sticks, it sounds like it's running in dual channel mode (so you're only getting 4x2). Haven't used a triple channel motherboard, but I assume there is an option in there you can adjust to force triple channel.

Before you do that though, are you sure memtest checked all six sticks of RAM? If not I'd check them all one at a time first. Unless you checked them individually before, that might be a safe thing to do even if memtest did detect all 12GB, sometimes you can find errors when using one stick but not when using more. Weird how that works.

Yeah, I have the option for 1333/1600/1866, etc. Since those are my only options, the correct setting is 1600? I'll check to see if it's possible to force triple channel. Oh, and yeah, I didn't do a complete check on all six of the sticks. I just did a partial check. I'll guess I'll try that first.

 

[Chesskid1]

holy shit.

i just found out about this keyboard

it's solar powered via any type of light. so it will charge off the light on a monitor for example. it holds charges for up to 3 months in complete darkness.

it's like $60 on amazon. god damn amazing.

 

[chaosblade]

Yeah, I have the option for 1333/1600/1866, etc. Since those are my only options, the correct setting is 1600? I'll check to see if it's possible to force triple channel. Oh, and yeah, I didn't do a complete check on all six of the sticks. I just did a partial check. I'll guess I'll try that first.

Yep, 1600. And did you check the timings? That could definitely cause problems if the timings are lower than the spec and the RAM can't handle them. Not sure if it would cause it to randomly go into dual channel, but that could be due to the settings restoring to default.

I'd keep trying to help, but I really need to go to bed before work later. Hopefully somebody else hops on and can offer some assistance.

 

[n0n44m]

The actual common thing here is that every time it has happened was after Windows did one of it's automatic updates and I woke up to the login screen. Now, one theory on this issue is that the card doesn't get reinitialized from low power usage mode correctly, which is why a cold boot is the only way to fix it. I'm kind of wondering if the win7 login screen goes into a low power mode after a set amount of time, which would explain why this has happened after updates are automatically installed.

wouldn't surprise me if it's just some bug in the drivers<-->card-bios communication or something

the other day my GTX480 suddenly only clocked at 400 mhz, which is powerstate 2. The card has 3 powerstates: idle (50 mhz 0,963v) , light activity such as videodecoding (400mhz default voltage) and full power (700 mhz, default voltage). Overclocking only affects the clockspeed of that last state and the default voltage of the 2 last states.

So I start up a game of BFBC2 and notices the framerate is in the 40s. Look at my G510 LCD screen and see the clockspeed is at 400 mhz ? Tried some stuff but only a reboot fixed it...

next time it happens, load up MSI Afterburner and check the clockspeed and voltage ... wouldn't be surprised if it for example is stuck in a certain powerstate or something

by the way, was the artifacting in 2D or only when playing 3D apps?

 

[bedlamite]

i just found out about this keyboard...

Using it right now on my new build, if you're not a mechanical keyboard fanatic the logitech K750 is indeed awesome. I've been using it for 2 months, the first week I was all worried about it getting enough light, and I'd set it by the window when I went out to work so that there would be enough power for use at night. Now I don't even bother. Truly marvelous.

I wish I could say the same about my G700 though :\

 

[Ploid 3.0]

how come i rarely see anybody here buy the $600 build? and almost everyone buying 1000 dollar build...

I got the $600 build. Already want a new motherboard and cpu. I don't think the motherboard allow overclocking much. When you change from stock athlon II X4 640 cooler to hyper 212 you have to turn flips to get it to what the stock can do naturally and stock can probably go higher. It's something about airflow apparently. Look up mosfet 870-g45, apparently they splode!!

I also plan to upgrade the graphics card when I get the next chance. Expensive.

 

[nextgeneration]

Yep, 1600. And did you check the timings? That could definitely cause problems if the timings are lower than the spec and the RAM can't handle them. Not sure if it would cause it to randomly go into dual channel, but that could be due to the settings restoring to default.

I'd keep trying to help, but I really need to go to bed before work later. Hopefully somebody else hops on and can offer some assistance.

No worries. I'm at work anyway, so can't try any of this right now. Thanks for your help. I appreciate it. I checked Kingston's site again and I think I may have found my memory module, but the model number is off by one character.

My model number: khx 1600c9d32g
Kingston site model number: khx 1600c9ad32g

I'm assuming these are the same? The timings on the site are 9-9-9-27, which is different from what the timings are stated on cpuz: 8-8-8-20. Let me try changing it to 9-9-9-27 and upping the voltage to 1.65 and hopefully, that will resolve my problems. *crosses fingers*

 

[Hazaro]

I got the $600 build. Already want a new motherboard and cpu. I don't think the motherboard allow overclocking much. When you change from stock athlon II X4 640 cooler to hyper 212 you have to turn flips to get it to what the stock can do naturally and stock can probably go higher. It's something about airflow apparently. Look up mosfet 870-g45, apparently they splode!!

I also plan to upgrade the graphics card when I get the next chance. Expensive.

May I ask what specifically about the PC feels restraining?
I'm guessing you have the 640 + a GTX 460?

Which games feel slow or under performing?

The price point at $600 is basically an entry capable level which is pretty darn capable. That's why it is called that.

 

[Jin]

What's so bad about LED monitors? I was in the process of buying a $250 Samsung 22 inch 1080p until I read some comments here.

 

[Hazaro]

What's so bad about LED monitors? I was in the process of buying a $250 Samsung 22 inch 1080p until I read some comments here.

From what I have picked up:

+Thin and Light

-Color and backlight sucks

 

[RumblingRosco]

Meant to add that temps are fine.

Sorry for this being a bit of an off-topic question, but I was wondering, what's the benefit of leaving a PC running for 24/7? I've seen it mentioned on here from time to time and besides saving a bit of time to boot up/shut down, I can't see an advantage, especially if one is using a SSD for their OS. Sorry I don't have any advice with your issue, was just curious about the 24/7.

 

[TouchMyBox]

What's so bad about LED monitors? I was in the process of buying a $250 Samsung 22 inch 1080p until I read some comments here.

Hazaro speaks the truth, also power consumption should go under the positives. But dude, $250 is way too much to be spending on a 60 Hz TN panel. Either get something that's $150, spend an extra $50-100 for 120 Hz, or get a nice IPS screen if you're feeling rich.

 

[J-Rzez]

how come i rarely see anybody here buy the $600 build? and almost everyone buying 1000 dollar build...

Because it is what it is, and new PC-gamer entry level, cheapest-moderately effective build. Most people are "WOW PC-graphix" and junk, so to obtain all that mega-resolution, bells and whistles at Ultra, and high framerates, you need the more powerful machine. Not to mention that you'd want something that's at least remotely future-proof so you don't "have" to get the newest videocard and cpu that hits. Once you throw in a good monitor and KB/M along with an OS for the $600-capable rig, you're around $1000 anyways (assuming no student/etc deals on an OS, no good prior monitor, or kb/m), so you might as well go all out at that point as well.

The last time I went all in on my rig and it lasted me years due to that, instead of nit-picking stuff along the way. Now it's completely outdated to me (it's around 4yrs old now), and I'll be jumping in hard again in about 2-3months, throwing down $1200-1500 (I have a good monitor already since my last one died a lil while back).

 

[RumblingRosco]

Because it is what it is, and new PC-gamer entry level, cheapest-moderately effective build. Most people are "WOW PC-graphix" and junk, so to obtain all that mega-resolution, bells and whistles at Ultra, and high framerates, you need the more powerful machine. Not to mention that you'd want something that's at least remotely future-proof so you don't "have" to get the newest videocard and cpu that hits. Once you throw in a good monitor and KB/M along with an OS for the $600-capable rig, you're around $1000 anyways (assuming no student/etc deals on an OS, no good prior monitor, or kb/m), so you might as well go all out at that point as well.

The last time I went all in on my rig and it lasted me years due to that, instead of nit-picking stuff along the way. Now it's completely outdated to me (it's around 4yrs old now), and I'll be jumping in hard again in about 2-3months, throwing down $1200-1500 (I have a good monitor already since my last one died a lil while back).

Not to mention, many people can re-use many of the parts they purchased, assuming they're of good quality and a little lucky. PSU, monitor, keyboard, mouse, sound cards, case, HDD, SSD, optical drives, maybe RAM, and fans.

 

[ithorien]

What's so bad about LED monitors? I was in the process of buying a $250 Samsung 22 inch 1080p until I read some comments here.

Like Haz said, it's basically the combination of a TN (shit angles, meh color reproduction) with LED (more awful colors, meh backlight) and the fact they're marketing them as "Green". They're trying to make them earth friendly, but it's really killing the picture quality.

Not sure how IPS LED perform.

 

[Jin]

Hazaro speaks the truth, also power consumption should go under the positives. But dude, $250 is way too much to be spending on a 60 Hz TN panel. Either get something that's $150, spend an extra $50-100 for 120 Hz, or get a nice IPS screen if you're feeling rich.

Thanks. I'll go check out some IPS screen.

 

[ithorien]

Thanks. I'll go check out some IPS screen.

Dell U2410.

This just in, Newegg spiked it up to $630. Six hundred thirty frakkin dollars. What is their malfunction lately?!? Dell sells it for $500.

 

[Ploid 3.0]

May I ask what specifically about the PC feels restraining?
I'm guessing you have the 640 + a GTX 460?

Which games feel slow or under performing?

The price point at $600 is basically an entry capable level which is pretty darn capable. That's why it is called that.

No it's a great pc. I just want to upgrade, love the video card, it's very good. Got into overclocking and that thing went far, just that the motherboard isn't doing so good at overclocking making me want a overclock MB like Asus. Then for Battlefield 3, and Saints Row 3rd I'd want a better card. This card plays everything good, but another card will most likely be better. The hard part is out of the way (starting from scratch and having all the parts shipped and work), and installing the 212 (had to remove the motherboard) I have no problem getting a new motherboard and installing it. I planned on and expected to upgrade when I started on a gaming pc.

Games:

NFS: Hot Pursuit (it's above 30 usually but the between 30 and 60 makes it look choppy. I got used to it by now, and guess it's because it was a console port. I tried some of everything with this game. Even 800x600 resolution, and everything set to the lowest. Resolution don't seem to effect anything.

Saints Row 2 (I bet this is just the way the game was made. Better frame rate than the console version though).

Test Drive Unlimited 2 (I guess there's a pattern here, but I bet a better card would force these games to run well. Some on gaf apparently have good framerate with NFS)

 

[TheExodu5]

I got the $600 build. Already want a new motherboard and cpu. I don't think the motherboard allow overclocking much. When you change from stock athlon II X4 640 cooler to hyper 212 you have to turn flips to get it to what the stock can do naturally and stock can probably go higher. It's something about airflow apparently. Look up mosfet 870-g45, apparently they splode!!

I also plan to upgrade the graphics card when I get the next chance. Expensive.

This is one reason I'd like to maybe see the $600 build updated to a budget P67 motherboard + i3 2100. At least it leaves open a nice upgrade path to an i5 2500k or maybe Ivy Bridge.

edit: oh, looks like Haz has already done that!

 

[Kaper]

Hey, PC Gaf. I'm getting parts together for my first build and would appreciate some advice. I'll mostly be using this PC for gaming, but now that I have the money for it I'll be dabbling in some video editing as well.

Case- Cooler Master HAF 922
Power Supply - Corsair AX650
CPU - Intel i5-2500k
Heatsink - Cooler Master Hyper 212
MoBo - ASUS P8P67-M PRO
Memory - GSkill Sniper 8GB (2x4GB)
GPU - MSI N560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II
HDD - Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB
SSD - Kingston SSDNow V100 64GB
Optical Drive - Lite-On LightScribe 24X SATA DVD+/-RW

Any suggestions for 20"-24" Monitors? I've never actually purchased a computer monitor and don't know reputable brands.

 

[ChoklitReign]

Because it is what it is, and new PC-gamer entry level, cheapest-moderately effective build. Most people are "WOW PC-graphix" and junk, so to obtain all that mega-resolution, bells and whistles at Ultra, and high framerates, you need the more powerful machine. Not to mention that you'd want something that's at least remotely future-proof so you don't "have" to get the newest videocard and cpu that hits. Once you throw in a good monitor and KB/M along with an OS for the $600-capable rig, you're around $1000 anyways (assuming no student/etc deals on an OS, no good prior monitor, or kb/m), so you might as well go all out at that point as well.

The last time I went all in on my rig and it lasted me years due to that, instead of nit-picking stuff along the way. Now it's completely outdated to me (it's around 4yrs old now), and I'll be jumping in hard again in about 2-3months, throwing down $1200-1500 (I have a good monitor already since my last one died a lil while back).

I can build a decent gaming PC for under $500 with combos and an AMD CPU. I wouldn't call a $600 build entry-level. It's at that price so there's fewer components you may want to upgrade. The GPU, CPU, and addition of a SSD are all you need to add to it to gain big overall performance boosts. I don't see why most PC gamers want a full-tower case, 8GB of RAM, 2TB of storage, etc. If $1000 can buy you a "Mercedes" PC, then $600 is equivalent to a well-equipped Honda. <$500 gets you a Hyundai.

 

[TheExodu5]

Any suggestions for 20"-24" Monitors? I've never actually purchased a computer monitor and don't know reputable brands.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...4236049&cm_re=asus_24"-_-24-236-049-_-Product

Pretty unbeatable when it comes to gaming TN panels, IMO.

Otherwise, you can look at IPS monitors if you want better colors and viewing angles, at the expense of pixel response time and a bit of input lag. Basically, your gaming would look better, but you'd lose a bit of a competitive edge.

edit: open box for $60 less

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...049R&cm_re=asus_vw246-_-24-236-049R-_-Product

Might have a chance at dead pixels with open box though...

I can build a decent gaming PC for under $500 with combos and an AMD CPU. I wouldn't call a $600 build entry-level. It's at that price so there's fewer components you may want to upgrade. The GPU, CPU, and addition of a SSD are all you need to add to it to gain big overall performance boosts. I don't see why most PC gamers want a full-tower case, 8GB of RAM, 2TB of storage, etc. If $1000 can buy you a "Mercedes" PC, then $600 is equivalent to a well-equipped Honda. <$500 gets you a Hyundai.

You take some massive hits to upgradability and performance when you cut off that extra $100.

Really though, the $600 build in the op is a $660 build with a HAF 912. The only thing I would cut to reach a lower price from that point is the GPU. Don't skimp on the case or PSU, and don't go AMD (at least until AM3+ is budget priced and we know what Bulldozer can do), IMO. You're going to be in a much better position in a few years time if you follow that adice.

edit: oh it's down to $500 now! I need to stop talking before I get my facts straight!

 

[Kaper]

Thanks for the monitor suggestion Exodu5, looks like it will fit my needs nicely.

 

[ithorien]

Thanks for the monitor suggestion Exodu5, looks like it will fit my needs nicely.

Aside from one dead pixel my wife's got, it's a very solid monitor for the price.

 

[BigJonsson]

My sis needs a laptop, she is going to go with Lenovo, we are deciding between L series, Edge series or T series....

The Edge comes with 4gigs of RAM, the T and L come with 2gigs + the option to add 2 more for 80 bucks......

Would only having 2 gigs of RAM hurt performance significantly?

She only plans to use MS Office, itunes, web browsing, e-mail, MSN, Skype and watch movies.....

 

[Smokey]

Good choice on that ASUS monitor. I have the 3d version and hooked up my 360 to it and played online just to test it out. No input lag or not much from what I could tell. No issues whatsoever with PC games either.

 

[Zimbardo]

i bought the ASUS VW246H LCD about 6 months ago. very happy with it.

i'm also thankful that there were no dead pixels.

 

[bill0527]

FUCK UPS !!!

I've heard about this happening but it never happened to me until today.

Parts for my new build are supposed to be coming in the next few days.

First up was my Samsung Hard drive. I used a Newegg promo code and got an additional $10 off which made the total come to $49.99 for a 1TB hard drive. I used a $50.00 gift certificate to purchase it.

It was supposed to be delivered today. I left the house for a couple of hours this afternoon, got home checked the tracking and it said it was delivered at 1:23pm CST, about a half hour before I got home.

NO FUCKING PACKAGE.

I call UPS. They tell me to check the bushes, check flower ports, check the guttering, make sure the driver didn't go around back and dig a 6-foot hole and bury it, etc.

I call Newegg and they tell me they will file a claim for me and offer to give me a refund but I have to go through the claims process which takes about 2 weeks. Meanwhile, the rest of the stuff for my build is supposed to be here on Tuesday, so I need a hard drive by then. Their customer service told me to go ahead and purchase the hard drive again, pay for overnight shipping and they will cover the overnight shipping charge they will credit the shipping charge back to me.

So I go online to do just that, and it won't take my promo code anymore, so now I don't get my discount and have to pony up another $81 for this hard drive with overnight shipping, even though I'll get the $21 shipping charge refunded and eventually the $50 gift card refunded as well.

What a goddamn nightmare. I seriously doubt it was stolen by a random passerby. I live in a nice neighborhood and this kind of stuff never happens.

We also had a FEDEX package delivered today and I suspect the FEDEX guy may have lifted it, or the UPS guy delivered it to the wrong house, or the guy may have just decided to keep it.

 

[RumblingRosco]

I start to get nervous about Newegg leaving things on my front porch. As it becomes increasingly popular, people begin to recognize the Newegg shipping box and understand that, despite often times being small in size it can contain something that's very expensive... prime target for snatchers.

 

[RS4-]

I fucking hate it when couriers do that.

 

[Unknown Soldier]

I start to get nervous about Newegg leaving things on my front porch. As it becomes increasingly popular, people begin to recognize the Newegg shipping box and understand that, despite often times being small in size it can contain something that's very expensive... prime target for snatchers.

After the package ships, you can call UPS and tell them you want them to hold the package at the distribution center and you'll go pick it up yourself.

 

[ithorien]

I start to get nervous about Newegg leaving things on my front porch. As it becomes increasingly popular, people begin to recognize the Newegg shipping box and understand that, despite often times being small in size it can contain something that's very expensive... prime target for snatchers.

It's not Newegg, it's fucking UPS not giving two shits.

I had an instance where the guy flat out LIED about attempting delivery. I was home the entire time, peeking out the window every 5 minutes. Not to mention I can hear everything because I'm next to the front door to the building.

It looks like they finally fired the douchebag driver, and we've had less problems since.

 

[Infinite Jest]

Hey, GAF. Would adding a side and bottom intake fan to my haf 922 drop temps inside enough to be worth the extra noise/power-consumption/fan price/controller price? I don't plan on doing extreme overclocking, just moderate.

 

[Bucket-o-roadkill]

Hello world..!

1st GAF post, I wanted to say these pc threads have been immense ever since I started lurking around gaf early 2010. Really helpful. The OP to this thread alone is god tier imo.

A wierd problem I'm experiencing is strange stuttering in everything, games, even youtube.. I have a phenom II 720 x3, 8gb ram, 460 GTX, Samsung F3 1tb.. But I do have quite a wimpy PSU, a Hiper 480w. My question to you guys is could a PSU be causing a stuttering effect? The way I'd describe it is like the frame rate of games is taking a hit, even though fraps doesnt register it. The fluidity of movement is juddering. No difference whether Vsync is on or off.. Any ideas? Much appreciated!!

 

[Darkman M]

EDIT

Went with the Haf X for the superior air flow, now all i need is my cpu and card everything else is done.

 

[Smokey]

FUCK UPS !!!

I've heard about this happening but it never happened to me until today.

Parts for my new build are supposed to be coming in the next few days.

First up was my Samsung Hard drive. I used a Newegg promo code and got an additional $10 off which made the total come to $49.99 for a 1TB hard drive. I used a $50.00 gift certificate to purchase it.

It was supposed to be delivered today. I left the house for a couple of hours this afternoon, got home checked the tracking and it said it was delivered at 1:23pm CST, about a half hour before I got home.

NO FUCKING PACKAGE.

I call UPS. They tell me to check the bushes, check flower ports, check the guttering, make sure the driver didn't go around back and dig a 6-foot hole and bury it, etc.

I call Newegg and they tell me they will file a claim for me and offer to give me a refund but I have to go through the claims process which takes about 2 weeks. Meanwhile, the rest of the stuff for my build is supposed to be here on Tuesday, so I need a hard drive by then. Their customer service told me to go ahead and purchase the hard drive again, pay for overnight shipping and they will cover the overnight shipping charge they will credit the shipping charge back to me.

So I go online to do just that, and it won't take my promo code anymore, so now I don't get my discount and have to pony up another $81 for this hard drive with overnight shipping, even though I'll get the $21 shipping charge refunded and eventually the $50 gift card refunded as well.

What a goddamn nightmare. I seriously doubt it was stolen by a random passerby. I live in a nice neighborhood and this kind of stuff never happens.

We also had a FEDEX package delivered today and I suspect the FEDEX guy may have lifted it, or the UPS guy delivered it to the wrong house, or the guy may have just decided to keep it.

That sucks.

When I had my stuff delivered they left ALL my shit out on the porch. Granted if you're just passing by you couldn't see it but if you walked up to the door shit is right there. My case wasn't boxed obviously so anybody who was smart could've put 2 and 2 together and figured that all of this was for a computer.

Luckily nobody took my shit but it's the first thing I noticed when I got to tha house.

 

[Beaner]

Just have a question about temps with my new pc.

I was just playing a few rounds of bad company 2, and as soon as I quit I checked the temps and saw this:



Is this pretty normal? It's running at stock 3.3GHz with the Hyper 212+ cooler on it. Are these temps low enough or are they indicative of perhaps an incorrect thermal paste situation? Runs at high 20's/low 30's when idle. Graphics card also runs at 70 when playing games but quickly cools back down to ~40 after quitting.

Thanks for your help

 

[Smokey]

Just have a question about temps with my new pc.

I was just playing a few rounds of bad company 2, and as soon as I quit I checked the temps and saw this:



Is this pretty normal? It's running at stock 3.3GHz with the Hyper 212+ cooler on it. Are these temps low enough or are they indicative of perhaps an incorrect thermal paste situation? Runs at high 20's/low 30's when idle. Graphics card also runs at 70 when playing games but quickly cools back down to ~40 after quitting.

Thanks for your help

I'm not seeing anything out of the ordinary from that pic.

 

[Hazaro]

Hey, PC Gaf. I'm getting parts together for my first build and would appreciate some advice. I'll mostly be using this PC for gaming, but now that I have the money for it I'll be dabbling in some video editing as well.

Case- Cooler Master HAF 922
Power Supply - Corsair AX650
CPU - Intel i5-2500k
Heatsink - Cooler Master Hyper 212
MoBo - ASUS P8P67-M PRO
Memory - GSkill Sniper 8GB (2x4GB)
GPU - MSI N560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II
HDD - Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB
SSD - Kingston SSDNow V100 64GB
Optical Drive - Lite-On LightScribe 24X SATA DVD+/-RW

Any suggestions for 20"-24" Monitors? I've never actually purchased a computer monitor and don't know reputable brands.

Looks great. Only suggestion would be to pick up an Intel 320 80GB instead for just a touch more.

Just have a question about temps with my new pc.

I was just playing a few rounds of bad company 2, and as soon as I quit I checked the temps and saw this:



Is this pretty normal? It's running at stock 3.3GHz with the Hyper 212+ cooler on it. Are these temps low enough or are they indicative of perhaps an incorrect thermal paste situation? Runs at high 20's/low 30's when idle. Graphics card also runs at 70 when playing games but quickly cools back down to ~40 after quitting.

Thanks for your help

Those temps are great (40 load). 70C load for GPU is normal.

 

[The Teachinator]

Hey, GAF. Would adding a side and bottom intake fan to my haf 922 drop temps inside enough to be worth the extra noise/power-consumption/fan price/controller price? I don't plan on doing extreme overclocking, just moderate.

I did install those fans in the case. I don't think it makes a big difference as the case already has great airflow. The fans are set to low and are extremely inaudible, at least compared to the gtx580 fan. I'd say the whole shebang sounds slightly louder than my slim 360.

 

[JAD0109]

yes more than enough although the CM212 can be found cheaper elsewhere as noted before in this thread

you also might want a fan controller for slowing the fans down when not gaming

How's this controller?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...5&cm_re=FAN_CONTROLLER-_-11-992-005-_-Product

 

[Mr Nightman]

How's this controller?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...5&cm_re=FAN_CONTROLLER-_-11-992-005-_-Product

seems to have quite a few comments on it burning itself up, I personally have the Scythe KM02-BK controller, been a great controller thus far, fans run just fine.

 

[Deputy Moonman]

This will be my first desktop PC and first time building a PC. Looking to spend around 800-1000 dollars and I'd like to have it finished within a month's time. Also would like to have a SSD in addition to my HD, but I'm waiting on a halfway decent deal for maybe an 80g version. What do you think of this setup? I'm opting for the GTX460 to save on costs, unless there is something better for a similar price.

CPU: i5 2500K
RAM: 8GB of DDR3 1333
Motherboard: ASRock P67 EXTREME4
GPU: GTX 460 1GB
PSU: Corsair CMPSU-650TX 650W
Case: Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case (not sure if spacing will be an issue)

Main Use: Gaming, Video Editing, general usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)
Monitor Resolution: Not sure. Still need to get a monitor. Deciding between 16:9 and 16:10 aspect ratio, and TN versus IPS
Will you be overclocking?: No. Not really planning on maxing out the hardware. So I don't think I'll need to get an additional fan for the CPU, but not positive.