I do have a side panel window, but ultimately this PC is going into a walk in closet for noise's sake, and the visuals won't be much of a concern. I'd still like to clean it up before then though. For prides sake, if nothing else.
mkenyon said:
I believe DICE has stated that the game will be multi-threaded, or at least designed for 4 cores. From what I've gathered, if you're not at a quad core, you're not meeting the recommended specs.
I know that no one really knows at this point, but how much of a bottleneck am I likely to have with the E8500 at 4+ GHz (@1080p)? I've yet to really see a bottleneck in anything I've thrown at it, including Crysis 1/2, The Witcher 2, and a few other things, but I realize that people are expecting BF3 to give rigs a run for their money. I'm also planning to spend money on a 1080p projector, and if another $300-400 on a new mobo and proc would guarantee much better performance, I could see myself spending it.
I know that no one really knows at this point, but how much of a bottleneck am I likely to have with the E8500 at 4+ GHz (@1080p)? I've yet to really see a bottleneck in anything I've thrown at it, including Crysis 1/2, The Witcher 2, and a few other things, but I realize that people are expecting BF3 to give rigs a run for their money. I'm also planning to spend money on a 1080p projector, and if another $300-400 on a new mobo and proc would guarantee much better performance, I could see myself spending it.
Well take bad co 2, I first ran it on a dual core athlon, with a 9800gt, and it ran between 20-30ish fps, and even lower when shit was going down online. As soon as I went to a Phenom 2 quad, it went to 45-60ish average fps, even on the 9800gt. The frostbite engine is indeed a cpu dependent beast.
Ok, thanks... how about these? Any other advice on the build? (I am a complete amateur, this thread has really helped, but i'm still a bit clueless tbh.)
I just upgraded my PC for Battlefield 3. The new parts are the EVGA GTX 580 SC (purchased during the Amazon price mishap for $330 AR), and the Seasonic X750 ($120). The returning parts are the CPU (C2D E8500), the RAM (8gb of DDR2 from G.Skill), the HDD's, the Mobo (Gigabyte EP45-UD3P) and the Antec Twelve Hundred case.
I'm hoping that by OC'ing my CPU, I can eliminate any potential CPU bottleneck that may exist in BF3 @ 1080p. Either way, I've sunk $450 into upgrades at this point (thanks to this thread), so what is another $300 on a 2500k and a new mobo, right? If it comes to that, of course. Hopefully it won't.
(I realize the wiring is awful right now. I need to make a few mods to this Antec 1200 before I can fix it. In hindsight, I probably shouldn't have bought this case, but other than cable management, it's been solid for probably three years at this point.)
Well take bad co 2, I first ran it on a dual core athlon, with a 9800gt, and it ran between 20-30ish fps, and even lower when shit was going down online. As soon as I went to a Phenom 2 quad, it went to 45-60ish average fps, even on the 9800gt. The frostbite engine is indeed a cpu dependent beast.
I need some networking help (if there is a better thread for these type of questions please let me know)
I just got my daughter a new laptop with wireless N so I figured it was time to swap out the current wireless G access point for wireless N. I found a Zyxel NBG-416N cheap, configured it for AP mode, changed the SSID to match the old AP then plugged it in and removed the old one. Her laptop connects fine, my other daughter's desktop with a G adapter connects fine, however my wife's netbook with a G adapter connects then gets disconnected after a couple of minutes every time.
Any ideas why the netbook doesn't seem to like the new AP? I have the netbook currently connected to a 2nd AP I have in the house on the downstairs floor so I know it's not an issue with the network adapter, but my goal is to eventually remove that other AP and replace my existing router with a wireless N router for the downstairs.
I need some networking help (if there is a better thread for these type of questions please let me know)
I just got my daughter a new laptop with wireless N so I figured it was time to swap out the current wireless G access point for wireless N. I found a Zyxel NBG-416N cheap, configured it for AP mode, changed the SSID to match the old AP then plugged it in and removed the old one. Her laptop connects fine, my other daughter's desktop with a G adapter connects fine, however my wife's netbook with a G adapter connects then gets disconnected after a couple of minutes every time.
Any ideas why the netbook doesn't seem to like the new AP? I have the netbook currently connected to a 2nd AP I have in the house on the downstairs floor so I know it's not an issue with the network adapter, but my goal is to eventually remove that other AP and replace my existing router with a wireless N router for the downstairs.
Thanks, not using any security at all (I have no neighbors nearby) unless there is something configured by default. The router is strange in that once I set it to AP mode I can no longer access the admin interface without resetting it back to factory defaults. So any setup changes I want to make, I have to set it before setting the AP mode. But that's a good idea to check the comments on Newegg, I'll go do that.
Thanks, not using any security at all (I have no neighbors nearby) unless there is something configured by default. The router is strange in that once I set it to AP mode I can no longer access the admin interface without resetting it back to factory defaults. So any setup changes I want to make, I have to set it before setting the AP mode. But that's a good idea to check the comments on Newegg, I'll go do that.
I would get a new router, if the thing wouldn't let me get into the admin interface without resetting it.
Anyway, I think step one is to make sure that it isn't just a case of the signal being really weak in that part of the house. Take that netbook, and plant it right next to the router, and see if the problem persists. If that doesn't help, update the wireless drivers on the netbook.
If that still doesn't help, you could always plug that old wireless G router you had back in, and have the netbook running on that, while the other computers are running off the Wireless N router.
I've never had any luck with wifi. I went wired a few years ago, and it was one of the best things I've ever done.
I had some video driver issue going on, got that fixed and ran Windows rating index...graphic card got a 2.0, everything else 7.8. lol
Edit: still seem to be having video card issues. I unistalled the drivers, re-installed them. Keeps on crashing (BSOD) with a message referring to the video card. Could it be that it's being "bottleknecked" by everything else?
I had some video driver issue going on, got that fixed and ran Windows rating index...graphic card got a 2.0, everything else 7.8. lol
Edit: still seem to be having video card issues. I unistalled the drivers, re-installed them. Keeps on crashing (BSOD) with a message referring to the video card. Could it be that it's being "bottleknecked" by everything else?
Hi guys, my friend wants a new PC. If he wanted it for high end gaming I would know which parts to get. But he only wants it for watching HD/1080p films and videos and this is where I'm kinda lost. Would I need to go for lower end CPU's, low ram and a low end HD GPU? Would be very grateful if someone could link me recommended parts on ebuyer within £500 for the whole lot. I looked at the capable build in the OP but was wondering if maybe I could go cheaper as it's only being used to play HD videos. If not then I may aswell go with that.
He plans on using his old case and HDD so don't need to replace them.
Ok, so now I have this 128 gb SSD disk for OS and main programs/games, and a 2 TB Samsung F4 for all the rest.
What's the best way to split my Steam games on the two disks? Using a particular software?
I installed Steam and a few games on the SSD... should I have installed all on the normal Samsung hd and then moved some game on the SSD instead?
What do you mean? It should be rock stable. Getting a new HS isn't going to help unless you are running 4.8Ghz with no pll overvolt and it is hitting 79C load...
Ezahn said:
Ok, so now I have this 128 gb SSD disk for OS and main programs/games, and a 2 TB Samsung F4 for all the rest.
What's the best way to split my Steam games on the two disks? Using a particular software?
I installed Steam and a few games on the SSD... should I have installed all on the normal Samsung hd and then moved some game on the SSD instead?
Stock is fine on budget, but you can get the 212 or a xigmatek for $30.
What do you mean? It should be rock stable. Getting a new HS isn't going to help unless you are running 4.8Ghz with no pll overvolt and it is hitting 79C load...
Steam Mover I think it is called. 1 or two main games on SSD, rest on HDD.
Stock is fine on budget, but you can get the 212 or a xigmatek for $30.
What do you mean? It should be rock stable. Getting a new HS isn't going to help unless you are running 4.8Ghz with no pll overvolt and it is hitting 79C load...
Steam Mover I think it is called. 1 or two main games on SSD, rest on HDD.
all sorts of problems, i have 1 ssd and 3 normal hdd's and sometimes when i want to open a file i have to wait for the hdd to start up or something, takes way to long.
second problem i have is while watching 1080p content with windows media player classic ( using that one because vlc gives me bugs from time to time while watching a 1080p video)
and its slow as fuck sometimes.
third problem i have is with videos and games, if its a dark room or what ever and there is fast moving, the curves of someones clothing or edges etc turn green from time to time.
and i want to overclock my 2500k to 4,5 in steaf of 3,3.
and i dont want it to underclock.
i am currently using that since some one suggested that would be better than vlc because it used the gpu more.
where can i download that coded though? and what does it add?
i am currently using that since some one suggested that would be better than vlc because it used the gpu more.
where can i download that coded though? and what does it add?
Ok, thanks... how about these? Any other advice on the build? (I am a complete amateur, this thread has really helped, but i'm still a bit clueless tbh.)
The i3 540 is better when you overclock it, but the 2100 runs on the newest socket, so you could drop in a better quad at a later time.
If you don't plan on upgrading any time soon, and are more likely to do a rebuild in 2 years then just replace the processor, nothing wrong with going for the older, dead socket. I made that choice about 2 months ago, and it's been great.
If you're not going to overclock, then the 2100 is the way to go for sure. It's a dual core, but with hyper threading it'll work like a quad core and handle 4 threads just fine, especially since you'll be GPU limited in anything that makes heavy use of a quad.
Other then that, you'll have a really nice little gaming setup there. The i3s are awesome for the price.
I do have a side panel window, but ultimately this PC is going into a walk in closet for noise's sake, and the visuals won't be much of a concern. I'd still like to clean it up before then though. For prides sake, if nothing else.
I know that no one really knows at this point, but how much of a bottleneck am I likely to have with the E8500 at 4+ GHz (@1080p)? I've yet to really see a bottleneck in anything I've thrown at it, including Crysis 1/2, The Witcher 2, and a few other things, but I realize that people are expecting BF3 to give rigs a run for their money. I'm also planning to spend money on a 1080p projector, and if another $300-400 on a new mobo and proc would guarantee much better performance, I could see myself spending it.
As as I said before, I believe it's going to be multi-threaded. A good game for comparison is Civ V. Runs jenkie at times on my 4.0 AMD 970 with 5870s in x-fire. Runs like gold on my buddies water-cooled 980x and Sonic GTX460.
If you carefully OC a 2600K to 4.5 GHz an ensure that it's cool, and use 2133 MHz RAM, you won't be that far off from what Intel plans to do with Ivy Bridge. They're shrinking it, probably adding more cores, and what to increase the operating frequency above 4.0 GHz, at least that's what I remember reading somewhere. It's the same base core tech as Sandy, which is probably why it OCs so high above 4.0 GHz. I don't think that games are going to really utilize 6-8 cores versus 4 until 2013+.
I do think we'll see massive improvements with SSD over the next 2 years, and moderate improvements in a long stagnant GPU market this autumn.
I have 2 6950s in CF, not really anything I can't render at max right now at 1080p. When the 7950 comes out, I'm sure it will close to my 6950 CF, but availability will probably be low and price bloated until supply increases and Nvidia's cards are released, so I figured it doesn't make much sense to wait. Especially when *maybe* Battlefield 3 won't run at max with the setup I chose in March.
When developers start making engines for the next gen consoles that are based on these PC video cards I think we'll see a big improvement from that alone.
Gonna go buy a second SSD today. Currently have a Corsair F120, but want a dedicated drive for Steam ... pretty much out of space. What's the latest and greatest? (My mobo supports SATA3 if that matters).
I'm trying not to worry too much, but I have a weird problem. I've got my 2500k clocked to 4.7 and it has been stable with good temps for weeks. I'm on a Gigabyte P67 (just the p67, not pro or 67a). Last thing I did on the pc was watch a netflix movie Thursday night.
Today when it boots, it SKIPs the BIOS splash screen and will not respond to repeated pressing of the delete key that should take me to the BIOS itself. After a longer wait than usual, it DOES, however, boot into Windows (7 Ultimate, 64bit). It can sit at the login prompt all day long, but once I initiate a login, the machine quickly hard-locks and I'm looking at a frozen screen. Sometimes I get to the desktop and (for instance), tried to look at CPU-Z, but it locked before I got there.
I would suspect my OC but I can't even get to the BIOS to set it lower. I have noticed that when I fully power off, the machine does a double POST, which I have heard some boards do when starting with new BIOS settings.
I figure I'll swap out the RAM, etc, but I don't have many alternate parts to work with. I have no PC speaker and I'll try to get one today. I've been Googling but I wanted to see if anyone here had experienced anything like this -- no BIOS, boots into Windows, then locks?? Help!
And during the steam summer sale, too... sob
Full specs:
i5 2500K @4.7 GHz
GIGABYTE GA-P67A-UD4-B3 LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA ...
Cooler Master 212
2x 2GB RAM
CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V v2.2SLI...
2x Radeon 6950s (not flashed)
64 GB Crucial C300 (boot drive)
320 GB Samsung HD 7200rpm (media)
Sony CD drive
Edit: Well, I guess it sometimes locks on the password screen, too. This time I removed any extraneous hardware (including a bluetooth dongle). For the BIOS -- any chance that it is just unable to output to the screen somehow?
I'm trying not to worry too much, but I have a weird problem. I've got my 2500k clocked to 4.7 and it has been stable with good temps for weeks. I'm on a Gigabyte P67 (just the p67, not pro or 67a). Last thing I did on the pc was watch a netflix movie Thursday night.
Today when it boots, it SKIPs the BIOS splash screen and will not respond to repeated pressing of the delete key that should take me to the BIOS itself. After a longer wait than usual, it DOES, however, boot into Windows (7 Ultimate, 64bit). It can sit at the login prompt all day long, but once I initiate a login, the machine quickly hard-locks and I'm looking at a frozen screen. Sometimes I get to the desktop and (for instance), tried to look at CPU-Z, but it locked before I got there.
I would suspect my OC but I can't even get to the BIOS to set it lower. I have noticed that when I fully power off, the machine does a double POST, which I have heard some boards do when starting with new BIOS settings.
I figure I'll swap out the RAM, etc, but I don't have many alternate parts to work with. I have no PC speaker and I'll try to get one today. I've been Googling but I wanted to see if anyone here had experienced anything like this -- no BIOS, boots into Windows, then locks?? Help!
And during the steam summer sale, too... sob
Full specs:
i5 2500K @4.7 GHz
GIGABYTE GA-P67A-UD4-B3 LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA ...
Cooler Master 212
2x 2GB RAM
CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V v2.2SLI...
2x Radeon 6950s (not flashed)
64 GB Crucial C300 (boot drive)
320 GB Samsung HD 7200rpm (media)
Sony CD drive
Thanks, I'll take a closer look at that, but I don't get enough time in windows to edit the registry. I can try to do a clean windows install if necessary, but I'm a bit concerned that won't help since I can't see the BIOS at all...
Thanks, I'll take a closer look at that, but I don't get enough time in windows to edit the registry. I can try to do a clean windows install if necessary, but I'm a bit concerned that won't help since I can't see the BIOS at all...
Well the lockups usually last for like 1 min then after that you'll be able to move around as normal, clean install wouldn't change thing since its a windows side deal that's going to be set by default.
I had the 2500k with the CM 212 plus and a slipstream 800rpm fan with the sticker pointing to the opposite direction of the cooler (don't know how to explain better) and i was achieving orrible temps (78 in load).
Now i changed the fan direction and i idle 27 and load max 58.
I thought the right direction was the previous, gaf?
I think I may have figured it out. I had accidentally plugged my HDMI cord into the secondary GPU, rather than my primary.
Now I see the BIOS splash. I got a blue screen during the black "starting windows" logo screen, but a full power cycle later, I am in windows and not freezing.
So, some questions about this... first, i have noticed Windows more or less randomly disabling crossfire sometimes. I'll notice a slowdown in a game and lo and behold, I have to re-enable crossfire. What's up with that? Second, how might it relate to this? I sort of understand that the BIOS wasn't able to use my secondary GPU, thus no splash or BIOS access on screen. But what's going on with Windows where it will use the 2nd GPU, but then freak out before a minute has elapsed?
Happy to be back, but still looking for answers. Thanks...
Edit: Dammit!! Big ol blue screen again. WTF!! Googling.... STOP 0x0000000124. I'll start by backing off my OC...
I had the 2500k with the CM 212 plus and a slipstream 800rpm fan with the sticker pointing to the opposite direction of the cooler (don't know how to explain better) and i was achieving orrible temps (78 in load).
Now i changed the fan direction and i idle 27 and load max 58.
I thought the right direction was the previous, gaf?
I had the 2500k with the CM 212 plus and a slipstream 800rpm fan with the sticker pointing to the opposite direction of the cooler (don't know how to explain better) and i was achieving orrible temps (78 in load).
Now i changed the fan direction and i idle 27 and load max 58.
I thought the right direction was the previous, gaf?
The FT02 also has hard drive trays that aren't completely terrible, so you'll also be thankful/regretful everytime you need to add or switch out HDDs. And beauty is in the eye of the beholder and all that... but I imagine most would agree that it look MUCH better than the RV02.
I do wish that it was all aluminum for the price, but it's still probably one of the best cases under $250.
I used to test beta builds of the CCCP, so I know your problem isn't the codec pack. It's been rock solid on my computer for years now. Installing FFDshow on top of it isn't going to do anything for you.
A modern computer should have no problem playing anything up to full 1080p without DXVA help. DXVA is kind of a last resort when everything else isn't working, but it is better to figure out why the video isn't decoding properly in the first place. A 2500k has more than enough power to do 1080p by itself without help from the GPU.
A screenshot of your output page in MPC-HC would be helpful in diagnosing why your computer isn't properly playing back your media. It would also be helpful to know what you are trying to play (Blu-Ray?). (Go to view > options > Playback > Output)
As for your other issues:
"all sorts of problems, i have 1 ssd and 3 normal hdd's and sometimes when i want to open a file i have to wait for the hdd to start up or something, takes way to long."
Your HDD's are going to sleep from inactivity. You may be able to fix this in the control panel, under power options. If that doesn't work, I'm not sure what to do next.
"third problem i have is with videos and games, if its a dark room or what ever and there is fast moving, the curves of someones clothing or edges etc turn green from time to time."
Do you have a plasma TV? This sounds like "Green Fringe" or "Green Ghosting". If you aren't on a plasma, I'm not sure what the issue is here.
Definitely don't get a new heat sink. Download HWmonitor, and check your temperatures. If they are fine, the heat sink isn't your problem.
It's also perhaps worth noting that media player classic homecinema comes with built-in support for a lot of codecs. I haven't installed a codec pack in ages, and good riddance.
Yes, you should not need ANY codec pack if you are using MPC-HC. All you need is an external mkv splitter (most people use Haali's) simply because MPC-HC's internal mkv splitter is junk. Besides that, just use the built-in filters. You can enable DXVA if you want to, in practice there is almost no difference on modern machines.
The hard part is setting a valid 24hz mode, neither ATI, Nvidia, nor Intel properly support 23.976hz and if you use a 24hz mode you WILL get frame-drops every now and then as the slight timing difference requires a resync of video and audio!
Yes, you should not need ANY codec pack if you are using MPC-HC. All you need is an external mkv splitter (most people use Haali's) simply because MPC-HC's internal mkv splitter is junk. Besides that, just use the built-in filters. You can enable DXVA if you want to, in practice there is almost no difference on modern machines.
The hard part is setting a valid 24hz mode, neither ATI, Nvidia, nor Intel properly support 23.976hz and if you use a 24hz mode you WILL get frame-drops every now and then as the slight timing difference requires a resync of video and audio!
It's easier just to have people install the CCCP, instead of telling them to install and configure separate components. There is no down side to having them install the full pack, anyway.
In my experience, DXVA causes more problems than it solves. It was fine for when I had an old computer that simply couldn't play HD content, but anyone with a modern computer shouldn't bother using it.
Can anyone explain some things about RAM to me? My MSI p67a-gd55 supports 1600mhz ram but that's only if I overclock it? I ask because on the newegg product page, 1600* (OC) is listed. Would a standard 1600mhz ram piece work?
Also, what do the PC10300 and other such codes mean?
