"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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delleps said:
Hey guys, I remember somewhere (in last year's thread, I think) I saw a link to a website that lets you quickly download a bunch of software for new computers, like they had a section for browsers and you checked which ones you wanted, and a section for torrent software, and a section for programming tools, etc, and then you hit a button at the bottom and it downloaded all the programs you checked off. Well I got a new computer and remembered this website, but can't remember what it's called and I can't find the link.
Click to expand...
http://ninite.com/
 
amrod said:
anyone play around with Hydro Cooler sealed units like the corsair ones

http://www.corsair.com/cooling/hydro-series.html ?

Looking to maybe put one on a 2600k
Click to expand...
I have an H50. It's really not worth the price, no better than decent air cooling. You would probably get the same temps with a Hyper 212+. Pretty sure I actually had better temps with my similarly priced Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme.

The new ones might be better though, but they also cost even more.

Edit: Actually the A70 from Corsair themselves is probably a better buy than any of those Hydro coolers.
 
https://spreadsheets.google.com/spr...lvVEbdGlEbkoxZWFvaWxnNTNRV2V3cjNFUXc&hl=en_US

^^link to google doc spreadsheet of my build so far.

I am really trying to stick to a budget of £800, and while I can go higher, I would sooner downgrade the build.

I think the two areas that I could downgrade are the motherboard and the GPU. (and possibly the case and the CPU???)

The reason I have gone with the i5-2500k is that I have heard it is the best value/performance, and my idea was that I would not have to upgrade the CPU for a while. However, perhaps I could save by getting the i5-2500 (not k), IIRC, the k version is for overclocking, and one of my main priorities is low head and sound.

I have no clue about the case tbh, pretty much the same with the motherboard and the PSU, however, I understand that getting a good PSU and motherboard will be able to sustain upgrades, therefore last longer, which is appealing.

So advice on the PSU, motherboard and case would be great, if nothing else.

Also, is the best way to get wireless going to be a usb adapter?

This is my first time building a pc, so this thread has been a huge help!
 
ShyGuy0504 said:
So I'm about to order a second monitor to use for an extended desktop, but I'm still a little unsure about it because I have 2 cards in crossfire. I'm assuming it will still work as long as I plug it into the top card right?
Click to expand...
Reposting for the new page. I'm pretty sure it will work I just want to be sure.
 
I have some questions. Can I buy an OEM version of Windows 7? I mean whats the version that I'm supposed to buy to run on my build?

Also, I'm going to have to run a wireless setup. Antenna, usb? What's the best and easiest?
 
MSIMagus said:
First off thanks to both you and LordCanti for helping. Most of the build for the OP $1,000 looks pretty good and is likely what I will go with. However I do have one question.

Is there anything I can use here to cut prices? I see when you buy bundles it saves $50-$100 easily, but I am not sure how many of these bundles matched the $1,000 OP build.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ubCategory=343&SortField=0&PageSize=10&page=1
Click to expand...
It's extremely rare to have a bundle line up with good component parts.
Usually you can pair a PSU and RAM together, sometimes GPU and RAM.

pedrothelion said:
560ti is still around $225 after rebate whereas the 6870 he mentioned is $180.00 after rebate. You've have to set a hard budget somewhere otherwise you’re looking at $1,000.00 plus system before you know it. Also, I don't think that AM3+ is such a bad idea. There's been tons of coupon deals on the 955 be where it's been priced around $100.00. He might even be better off getting a x3 450 for around $70.00 and just upgrading when the bulldozer chips come out. If AMD can get anywhere close to Sandybridge and it make cheaper (I think they've said their goal is compete with Intel in terms of value) that's where people on a budget should go.
Click to expand...
Hmm, looks like the eVGA went back up in price.
Still, $220 AR for an eVGA dual fan cooler or MSI Twin Frozr II is great.

I took a long hard look at the x4 vs 2100 since I had the x4 as the budget CPU for a good while. I was feeling in pros and cons of the quad vs dual (as it has been a great debate for a while now), but the 2100 is just so stupid fast compared to the x4 it really should not be a problem unless a game is based around a quad. Nothing really does this and the two cores on the 2100 are almost as fast as all 4 on the x4.
It's just a better budget gaming CPU. Plus it can do emulation. And upgrade to Sandy/Ivy Bridge.

Is a cheaper x3 or x4 build still viable and throw the extra $50 on GPU? Sure.
 
I've done a bit of searching around to figure this out. I'm pretty sure that what I think is correct, I just want some confirmation before I go ahead and make this order.

This was part of a deal on newegg, there is a motherboard that only supports sata 3.0 gb/s and it comes with a 1tb hdd that is 6.0 gb/s. These are compatible correct? They are both sata, I just wont be able to hit the 6.0 speeds, right?


combo deal, http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.667454

hdd, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148697
mobo, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130588

edit: while searching this thread i did see that someone asked a similar question, but that was about having 3.0 cables. I asking about the 3.0 ports on the mobo. I think the same rule of backwards compatibility applies, just being cautious.
 
blanky said:
I have some questions. Can I buy an OEM version of Windows 7? I mean whats the version that I'm supposed to buy to run on my build?

Also, I'm going to have to run a wireless setup. Antenna, usb? What's the best and easiest?
Click to expand...

OEM just means if you have problems with Windows, Microsoft isn't obligated to help you. OEM copies are meant for companies that sell their own computers like Dell and offer their own customer support.

This is what you want
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...986&cm_re=windows_7_64-_-32-116-986-_-Product

This adapter does the job
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704045
 
zaxor0 said:
I've done a bit of searching around to figure this out. I'm pretty sure that what I think is correct, I just want some confirmation before I go ahead and make this order.

This was part of a deal on newegg, there is a motherboard that only supports sata 3.0 gb/s and it comes with a 1tb hdd that is 6.0 gb/s. These are compatible correct? They are both sata, I just wont be able to hit the 6.0 speeds, right?


combo deal, http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.667454

hdd, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148697
mobo, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130588

edit: while searching this thread i did see that someone asked a similar question, but that was about having 3.0 cables. I asking about the 3.0 ports on the mobo. I think the same rule of backwards compatibility applies, just being cautious.
Click to expand...
USB 3 and SATA 6 are both backwards compatible.
Also a SATA 6 HDD will never come close to capping out a SATA 3 cable anyway.
goodfella said:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/spr...lvVEbdGlEbkoxZWFvaWxnNTNRV2V3cjNFUXc&hl=en_US

^^link to google doc spreadsheet of my build so far.

I am really trying to stick to a budget of £800, and while I can go higher, I would sooner downgrade the build.

I think the two areas that I could downgrade are the motherboard and the GPU. (and possibly the case and the CPU???)

The reason I have gone with the i5-2500k is that I have heard it is the best value/performance, and my idea was that I would not have to upgrade the CPU for a while. However, perhaps I could save by getting the i5-2500 (not k), IIRC, the k version is for overclocking, and one of my main priorities is low head and sound.

I have no clue about the case tbh, pretty much the same with the motherboard and the PSU, however, I understand that getting a good PSU and motherboard will be able to sustain upgrades, therefore last longer, which is appealing.

So advice on the PSU, motherboard and case would be great, if nothing else.

Also, is the best way to get wireless going to be a usb adapter?

This is my first time building a pc, so this thread has been a huge help!
Click to expand...
There's not much you can cut without making some sacrifices.
If budget is really tight you can get a H67 board + a 2400.
You also have the wrong price for RAM on that sheet.
 
chaosblade said:
Should just be a matter of changing the RAM multiplier. Will probably specifically say "1333MHz" and you just change it to 1600. Might also say 667 if the bios is giving the actual speed and not the DDR speed (I think mine does this), in that case change it to 800.


They are two different GPUs just like the 570 and 580, or the 6950 and 6970. NVidia kind of made it confusing. The Ti model is the "real" 560 and the basic one is gimped (an OC'd 460 more or less).

At 1680x1050 a 570 will be overkill though, you would be more than fine with a 560Ti unless you plan to upgrade your monitor in the near future.


Regarding the GPU, the 560Ti is a good step above the 6870. It competes closely with the 6950. It's worth it to step up to that while shaving off a few dollars here and there.

And Bulldozer is still an unknown quantity. A Sandy Bridge CPU is not, they are great CPUs and a 2500k will last for years to come. BD might turn out to be great and compete well with Intel, or it could be another Phenom I and be a total disappointment.
Click to expand...

Keep in mind a 6950 is like 10% faster then a 6870, so though the 560ti and 6950 are faster, it's by a very small margin in terms of overall performance.

It would be like comparing an i5 750 and a 2500k at 4Ghz. You would barely notice the difference.
 
amrod said:
anyone play around with Hydro Cooler sealed units like the corsair ones

http://www.corsair.com/cooling/hydro-series.html ?

Looking to maybe put one on a 2600k
Click to expand...


I have a H70 and a 2600k @ 4.5ghz. I get around 28-33 idle temps, and when playing games and usually around 55c. The 2600k's do run hotter than the the i5s due to hyper threading. If you disable that feature, the temps will go down a few degrees.

I got it because of how clean it looks inside the case. It was a bitch for me to install although that might of been because this was the first time I put a machine together and everything was new to me.
 
Smokey said:
I have a H70 and a 2600k @ 4.5ghz. I get around 28-33 idle temps, and when playing games and usually around 55c. The 2600k's do run hotter than the the i5s due to hyper threading. If you disable that feature, the temps will go down a few degrees.

I got it because of how clean it looks inside the case. It was a bitch for me to install although that might of been because this was the first time I put a machine together and everything was new to me.
Click to expand...

How is the noise?
Do you have 2 fans on it for a Push / Pull config?
 
My stuff came in today. Still waiting on my case and HDD which might take a whole week from what I'm hearing.

Will I be able to test if my mobo works without a HDD? Just need to see if it posts and if I can get into the BIOS. I'm pretty sure I can but I need to make sure none of this stuff is DOA by the end of this week.
 
toasty_T said:
My stuff came in today. Still waiting on my case and HDD which might take a whole week from what I'm hearing.

Will I be able to test if my mobo works without a HDD? Just need to see if it posts and if I can get into the BIOS. I'm pretty sure I can but I need to make sure none of this stuff is DOA by the end of this week.
Click to expand...
Yup
 
After motherboard RMA, buying new RAM, trying a different PSU, I believe my problem is my CPU. Time for another week+ of RMA waiting goodness.
/sigh
 
amrod said:
How is the noise?
Do you have 2 fans on it for a Push / Pull config?
Click to expand...
Yes Im using two fans on it (came with the setup). Plan to get better fans later on.Noise isn't bad at all. It's noticeable when you're not doing anything and when playing a game you won't hear it at all.

That being said you will get similar temps if you go with something like a 212+.
I just really like the look of the cooler. I have a side panel as well and didn't want to see a mammoth fan sticking out of the corner of my eye :p
 
barnone said:
After motherboard RMA, buying new RAM, trying a different PSU, I believe my problem is my CPU. Time for another week+ of RMA waiting goodness.
/sigh
Click to expand...
I hope not.
That is really is 1 in a million type of problem.
 
Flame Lord said:
Hoping to make a computer soon and I was wondering if there's some kind of tool set to buy for computer parts?
Click to expand...
gYPiB.jpg
 
toasty_T said:
Will I be able to test if my mobo works without a HDD? Just need to see if it posts and if I can get into the BIOS. I'm pretty sure I can but I need to make sure none of this stuff is DOA by the end of this week.
Click to expand...

Yeah, just touch the power (pwr) pins on your motherboard with a flathead screwdriver. I just did this and it worked great. :)


toasty_T said:
Ready to go. Wish me luck.
Click to expand...

Good luck, take your time, double check your work and have fun! :)
 
Ordered Windows 7 Home Premium along with an OCZ 240GB SSD. I'm excited to purge Vista off my computer finally. Hopefully the SSD will make me say wow.
 
I think I'm ready to turn this on

I have only the 24 pin mobo connector along with 4 pin CPU, is that all I need? There is an extra 4 pin on my PSU and my mobo has room for all 8 pins, should I plug that in too?
 
Hazaro said:
I hope not.
That is really is 1 in a million type of problem.
Click to expand...

Well i found a post on another forum where a guy couldnt get passed the setup screen on the win7 installation (like me). He COULD install winXP though, and I found out that I could too. the only thing that worked for him was a new CPU.

Really bummed about this whole process :/ hopefully the PC is worth it but the excitement phase has faded.
 
toasty_T said:
I think I'm ready to turn this on

I have only the 24 pin mobo connector along with 4 pin CPU, is that all I need? There is an extra 4 pin on my PSU and my mobo has room for all 8 pins, should I plug that in too?
Click to expand...

Yes, plug in the other 4pin connector as well.
 
black_vegeta said:
:D Awesome, now but dat baby in dat case.
Click to expand...
With the cooler I bought it won't fit in my case lol. Gotta wait for the new one to come in the mail.

Had to put my hands on this thing. I couldn't wait.
 
toasty_T said:
With the cooler I bought it won't fit in my case lol. Gotta wait for the new one to come in the mail.

Had to put my hands on this thing. I couldn't wait.
Click to expand...

Hahaha, that sucks. Glad it POST, that's a good thing.
 
toasty_T said:
With the cooler I bought it won't fit in my case lol. Gotta wait for the new one to come in the mail.

Had to put my hands on this thing. I couldn't wait.
Click to expand...
Which HS and case were incompatible?
 
Hazaro said:
Which HS and case were incompatible?
Click to expand...
Thermalright Silver Arrow and my current case is an Antec 900.

It probably could fit but I'd rather not go through the effort since I'll just be taking it out anyway.
 
Looking into Wifi for my PC. I'll be moving into a family friends basement and the router is upstairs so wired isn't an option :(

It seems like there are a couple options. USB and PCI wifi adaptors. which is better? And of the two interfaces, is there a particular product you recommend? What do I need to look for in a wifi card. The family is kind-of less than tech savy, so I don't know what wifi protocol they use (B, G, N) so the more compatibility, the better.
 
Hey yall, I bought an Asus Crosshair V motherboard, and some new Corsair XM3 DDR3 RAM, 2x4GB Modules, everything else came from a working build.

My PC won't POST. I tried different RAM, didn't help. The Asus 'Q-LED' is flashing on DRAM, none of the RAM I used is on their Qualified Vendor's List, so would that really make a difference or should I RMA the board?
 
toasty_T said:
Pic of my naked mobo with a big ass cooler
Click to expand...
Normally you want the hot air flowing left (to the exhaust at the back of the case).
I may be wrong, but it looks like the fans are going to blow to the front.
darthbob said:
Hey yall, I bought an Asus Crosshair V motherboard, and some new Corsair XM3 DDR3 RAM, 2x4GB Modules, everything else came from a working build.

My PC won't POST. I tried different RAM, didn't help. The Asus 'Q-LED' is flashing on DRAM, none of the RAM I used is on their Qualified Vendor's List, so would that really make a difference or should I RMA the board?
Click to expand...
Try 1 stick in the specified slot.
Is it 1.5V RAM?
Whats the model/speed/timings?
Mully said:
Definitely a mini.
Click to expand...
That's a full size ATX ASUS P8___ board.
 
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