"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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Hulud said:
The hardest part of building my PC was doing all the wiring with my fuckin huge caveman hands. The rest is easy breezy.

Be sure to plan so that cables are tucked out of the way so that you have good airflow.
Fans are cheap and the scythe typhoons 1850RPM are great for this job.
Also fan controllers are cheap and can allow you to have a silent PC for browsing and then quickly up the fan profile for gaming.
 
Just wondering, I plan on doing my build tomorrow and I'm getting a 2TB which I intend to use as a back up drive. What I want to know is can I just hook up my old HDD with its Windows install to the new mobo, back up and then do the clean install?

Otherwise I'd do my back up before building and I'm sure in my hastiness to get to work I'd miss something.
 
toasty_T said:
Just wondering, I plan on doing my build tomorrow and I'm getting a 2TB which I intend to use as a back up drive. What I want to know is can I just hook up my old HDD with its Windows install to the new mobo, back up and then do the clean install?

Otherwise I'd do my back up before building and I'm sure in my hastiness to get to work I'd miss something.

So you'll back up the old drive to the 2TB drive, wipe the old drive, and then install a new OS on the old drive?

edit: I misread. You intend to boot windows off of the old drive, on the new mobo? I don't believe that will work without running a windows repair disk or something of that sort. I could be wrong, but in any case, it may be easier (if you've got burnable media around, like most of us probably do) to boot a Linux Distro like Ubuntu, and then back up the data. Once the data is on the 2TB HDD, format the old drive, reboot the computer, and swap the Ubuntu disc for the Windows install disk.
 
LordCanti said:
So you'll back up the old drive to the 2TB drive, wipe the old drive, and then install a new OS on the old drive?

edit: I misread. You intend to boot windows off of the old drive, on the new mobo? I don't believe that will work without running a windows repair disk or something of that sort. I could be wrong, but in any case, it may be easier (if you've got burnable media around, like most of us probably do) to boot a Linux Distro like Ubuntu, and then back up the data. Once the data is on the 2TB HDD, format the old drive, reboot the computer, and swap the Ubuntu disc for the Windows install disk.

You've got it all correct. I'm going to wipe the old drive after backing up. I could either do this with my current set up or the new one. It's just that I wanted to save a bit of time and get to building sooner.

Might play it safe and backup before moving to the new mobo, I do have the disk though.
 
toasty_T said:
You've got it all correct. I'm going to wipe the old drive after backing up. I could either do this with my current set up or the new one. It's just that I wanted to save a bit of time and get to building sooner.

Might play it safe and backup before moving to the new mobo, I do have the disk though.

Do it with the current one. You don't even need to install the HDD into the case, just put it on its anti-static bag, and hook up the cables. Copy your data over, and you'll be good to go. It's the only method guaranteed not to give you any issues.
 
LordCanti said:
Do it with the current one. You don't even need to install the HDD into the case, just put it on its anti-static bag, and hook up the cables. Copy your data over, and you'll be good to go. It's the only method guaranteed not to give you any issues.

Is it possible to just copy the drive entirely and sift though it later? What I mean is, can I just copy C and call it a day?

I don't see why not, just making sure.
 
LordCanti said:
I would start with the $1000 build on the first page. No one knows how Battlefield 3 or Rage will run on current hardware, but a GTX 580 would probably stand a better chance than the GTX 570 in the $1000 build, so I'd make that upgrade (+$200). Other than that, I'd add an SSD for games and the OS (Intel 320's or Intel 510's come highly recommended it seems) (+$150-$200) to go with the HDD for storage. Beyond that, you've got to ask a few questions: The first, will you ever SLI? If not, you could sub out the 750w corsair model in that build, for a cheaper 650w model. If so, you'll need something more along the lines of an 850-1000w PSU (Corsair and Seasonic are my picks for brands). If you want to save money, you could do without the SSD.

Other than that, just pick a case from the list, and you should be good to go. Pick one of the quiet ones for non-SLI, or one of the others (like the HAF 922) for SLI, to take advantage of the additional cooling. Be sure to show us a list of your final parts before you buy, so we can go over them.

Thanks for your help.
one last question, I will get a motherboard and a hard drive that has SATA III and supports 6GB/s, is this enough as a drive to install the OS on or an SSD is necessary?
 
Qatar said:
Thanks for your help.
one last question, I will get a motherboard and a hard drive that has SATA III and supports 6GB/s, is this enough as a drive to install the OS on or an SSD is necessary?

An SSD isn't a necessity but boy is it a hell of a lot quicker by all reports.
 
toasty_T said:
Is it possible to just copy the drive entirely and sift though it later? What I mean is, can I just copy C and call it a day?

I don't see why not, just making sure.

I...you know, I have no idea. With backup software, it is easy enough to do. Could you highlight everything, and hit "copy" though? Hmm...

I suppose it wouldn't copy hidden system files, but you don't need those anymore. You'll eventually have to go back through and delete old program and windows files, but if you don't want the hassle of trying to find all of your important data right now, I guess it would work.

There's no harm in trying it, in any case.


Qatar said:
Thanks for your help.
one last question, I will get a motherboard and a hard drive that has SATA III and supports 6GB/s, is this enough as a drive to install the OS on or an SSD is necessary?

An SSD isn't necessary. I don't have one myself. An SSD basically makes things load a lot faster, as long as you install them on the SSD (like, photoshop for instance, will load the instant you double click the icon, instead of 10 seconds later). For $2000, I'd want an SSD in my build. If I was trying to trim the cost of my build down, an SSD would be the first thing to go, because it is non-essential. I've got a 7200RPM drive, and if I keep it reasonably defragmented, there isn't a program on it that bothers me in terms of how long it takes to load.
 
LabouredSubterfuge said:
An SSD isn't a necessity but boy is it a hell of a lot quicker by all reports.
yes I was watching some videos on youtube about this, but Intel smart response technology got me more confused about SSD
 
Qatar said:
yes I was watching some videos on youtube about this, but Intel smart response technology got me more confused about SSD

Don't worry about Smart Caching. Unless I'm horribly mistaken, it is pointless for anyone with an SSD large enough to hold the OS (and games, programs, etc).
 
LordCanti said:
Don't worry about Smart Caching. Unless I'm horribly mistaken, it is pointless for anyone with an SSD large enough to hold the OS (and games, programs, etc).
Aha! now I've realized this whole thing.
 
Qatar said:
Aha! now I've realized this whole thing.

I have an SSD for all my files. Nothing super cutting edge just an x-25m. It makes such a large difference you won't ever want to go back to traditional hard drives. Games just fly by loading screens, which is really great in texture heavy games that otherwise can take a while.
 
Hulud said:
The hardest part of building my PC was doing all the wiring with my fuckin huge caveman hands. The rest is easy breezy.


I give myself a nice break in between wiring the little mobo connectors that are all grouped together and the rest of the build. Its hilariously annoying we haven't moved on from that design yet.

As for neatness wiring I use the HAF X and its pretty easy once you remove both sides of the case.
 
Just as a bit of a vent and a heads up. Returning things to Scan.co.uk is a complete joke.

I phoned up for an RMA clearly explaining them monitor I just recieved has a scratch.

Rather than say: No problems, here if your RMA we'll look and it. I've been told I need to show evidence of the scratch (it's a fucking scratch, look at the monitor) and wait for a response which I would recieve by 2pm. 2pm came and went and still no response after loosing my afternoon typing up a e-mail to them and finding a camera to send pictures to them. Not only have I not had a responce the person I spoke to Matt was coming across like I had caused the damage!

Fucking unacceptable level of service considering how much I've spent with them.

It appears if you don't put their scan insurance on your orders they are arsey about taking returns.
 
Spookie said:
Just as a bit of a vent and a heads up. Returning things to Scan.co.uk is a complete joke.

I phoned up for an RMA clearly explaining them monitor I just recieved has a scratch.

Rather than say: No problems, here if your RMA we'll look and it. I've been told I need to show evidence of the scratch (it's a fucking scratch, look at the monitor) and wait for a response which I would recieve by 2pm. 2pm came and went and still no response after loosing my afternoon typing up a e-mail to them and finding a camera to send pictures to them. Not only have I not had a responce the person I spoke to Matt was coming across like I had caused the damage!

Fucking unacceptable level of service considering how much I've spent with them.

It appears if you don't put their scan insurance on your orders they are arsey about taking returns.


Sorry to hear that man
 
So I started to slap together my wishlist. I'll likely be making the purchase within the next 2 months or so. I plan on doing some overclocking (but nothing on the extreme side) and want the flexibility to go SLI down the road. Main use will be video encoding, video editing, and gaming.

ppGwS.png
 
Spookie said:
Just as a bit of a vent and a heads up. Returning things to Scan.co.uk is a complete joke.

I phoned up for an RMA clearly explaining them monitor I just recieved has a scratch.

Rather than say: No problems, here if your RMA we'll look and it. I've been told I need to show evidence of the scratch (it's a fucking scratch, look at the monitor) and wait for a response which I would recieve by 2pm. 2pm came and went and still no response after loosing my afternoon typing up a e-mail to them and finding a camera to send pictures to them. Not only have I not had a responce the person I spoke to Matt was coming across like I had caused the damage!

Fucking unacceptable level of service considering how much I've spent with them.

It appears if you don't put their scan insurance on your orders they are arsey about taking returns.

Yeah, thought that might happen. Ridiculous really. Hope none of my stuff turns up damaged for this reason alone.
 
If I'm getting a GTX 580, do I absolutely have to have a PSU with an 8 pin PCI-E connector?

My new PSU has:

1 x 4+4pin CPU +12V
3 x 4pin Molex
2 x 6+2pin PCI-E Power
1 x FDD Power
6 x SATA Power

Will it work with a GTX 580?
 
XiaNaphryz said:
So I started to slap together my wishlist. I'll likely be making the purchase within the next 2 months or so. I plan on doing some overclocking (but nothing on the extreme side) and want the flexibility to go SLI down the road. Main use will be video encoding, video editing, and gaming.
For video encoding, go Z68 MBs with Quick Sync, Asus Z68 Pro or Deluxe. Today, I would go Z68 over P67 anyway.

Also, I would go Sandforce 2200 chipset. Corsair Force GT 60GB if you going small.
 
It's lunchtime.

I'm bored. Microcenter is a couple of blocks away....

If I buy more RAM for my machine am I being stupid (already have 8GB)?
 
Smokey said:
It's lunchtime.

I'm bored. Microcenter is a couple of blocks away....

If I buy more RAM for my machine am I being stupid (already have 8GB)?

If your just gaming then yeah, you won't see a noticeable increase in performance
 
Smokey said:
It's lunchtime.

I'm bored. Microcenter is a couple of blocks away....

If I buy more RAM for my machine am I being stupid (already have 8GB)?

Yes. Unless you use it for imageediting/videencoding/productivity etc
 
LabouredSubterfuge said:
Yeah, thought that might happen. Ridiculous really. Hope none of my stuff turns up damaged for this reason alone.

Well I've learned my lesson. Peripherals, routers and shit like that I'll order from amazon. No idea where I'll order my PC parts from now though. :(
 
imoTEP12 said:
If your just gaming then yeah, you won't see a noticeable increase in performance
Meh :l

I like tinkering my machine , adding stuff etc. Almost feel since RAM is sort of cheap that I should load up on it. But if it won't actually do anything then meh.

I always feel like a kid at microcenter lol
 
Alright PC GAF, help me spec a competent gaming PC for around $350 to $400. I need to build 3 of them for my nephews and niece. Currently, they're on old dual cores with video cards in the 9500 range, so something with better performance than that is a requirement. No need for monitors, just the box itself. Thanks in advance!
 
mm04 said:
Alright PC GAF, help me spec a competent gaming PC for around $350 to $400. I need to build 3 of them for my nephews and niece. Currently, they're on old dual cores with video cards in the 9500 range, so something with better performance than that is a requirement. No need for monitors, just the box itself. Thanks in advance!
400? Including a new windows license, a case and a PSU? Good luck with that.
 
LabouredSubterfuge said:
If I'm getting a GTX 580, do I absolutely have to have a PSU with an 8 pin PCI-E connector?

My new PSU has:

1 x 4+4pin CPU +12V
3 x 4pin Molex
2 x 6+2pin PCI-E Power
1 x FDD Power
6 x SATA Power

Will it work with a GTX 580?
Bolded is an 8 pin silly. 6+2 = 8.
 
Shambles said:
From Wikipedia:


Both are listed as critical errors. The formatting on the wiki page is a lot cleaner than what I've posted here.


Thanks for your help with all this. I didn't know they were defined on the wikipage. I didn't see much of a context on hddscan.com where I downloaded the app.

It did start to load windows faster on subsequent attempts. But whatever is wrong is still there. When the HDD needs to be accessed, things are slow as molasses. Browsing the internet isn't so bad! I got my game saves off. Maybe I can even transfer some of the games to this hard drive I already ordered.


I did a memtest and there were no errors there.
 
Quick question guys. My current card is a GTX260 and it has been serving me well. I have been able to run any game maxed out pretty damn good except recently that I just played through BFBC2 and maxed out I wasn't getting the smoothest frame rate. I'm just wondering if upgrading to a 560ti or 570 would be a good upgrade. Are there going to be new cards real soon that would make either of these old by a large margin? Will there be a huge noticeable difference between my card and these new ones? I want to get a couple of top end games soon from the Steam sale like Metro 2033, The Witcher 2 and BF3 when it hits and I would like to run these maxed out and something tells me my card won't be able to do so. Also, are these cards longer than my current card?

i7 920
6gb DDR3 1333 RAM
GTX260
 
Quick question!

Just, built my fist pc, :), and installing windows 7 atm. However, I didn't create a partition. (I have a 1tb hdd)


Should I delete windows and reinstall, or does it not make a difference? Thanks.
 
zazrx said:
Quick question guys. My current card is a GTX260 and it has been serving me well. I have been able to run any game maxed out pretty damn good except recently that I just played through BFBC2 and maxed out I wasn't getting the smoothest frame rate. I'm just wondering if upgrading to a 560ti or 570 would be a good upgrade. Are there going to be new cards real soon that would make either of these old by a large margin? Will there be a huge noticeable difference between my card and these new ones? I want to get a couple of top end games soon from the Steam sale like Metro 2033, The Witcher 2 and BF3 when it hits and I would like to run these maxed out and something tells me my card won't be able to do so. Also, are these cards longer than my current card?

i7 920
6gb DDR3 1333 RAM
GTX260
Yeah, a 560ti or 570 would both be good upgrades. IIRC, the 260 is about 10". The 560ti is a bit under that and the 570 is right around that length. You won't be able to max out Metro 2033, Witcher 2, or BF3 with either of those cards though. The next set of cards won't be coming out till Q1/Q2 2012.


goodfella said:
Quick question!

Just, built my fist pc, :), and installing windows 7 atm. However, I didn't create a partition. (I have a 1tb hdd)


Should I delete windows and reinstall, or does it not make a difference? Thanks.
If you're asking whether or not you should make a partition specifically with windows, you don't need to worry about it. I still do it as a holdover from the days that Windows 95/98 did a horrible job of organizing the file system, but it's not a big deal anymore.
 
Stupid general question. It'll obviously be easier to tell at the time, but as of now are there any major refreshes one could miss out on by upgrading (all major components) late August instead of late October?
 
mkenyon said:
Yeah, a 560ti or 570 would both be good upgrades. IIRC, the 260 is about 10". The 560ti is a bit under that and the 570 is right around that length. You won't be able to max out Metro 2033, Witcher 2, or BF3 with either of those cards though. The next set of cards won't be coming out till Q1/Q2 2012.
Wow really? Damn those games are that damn demanding? :'( Is there a solution to that? SLI I'm guessing? If not maxed, how close to max? BTW if a games run at 30fps or more I'm fine with that, I don't need 60fps.
 
guys, on my new build hwmonitor is reporting a cputin idle temperature of ~90°. this makes no sense, as all the cores are at ~37°. what could be causing this?
 
darthbob said:
lolno.

It works, sure, but MX-2, MX-4 are much better, non conductive pastas.
Artic Silver 5 is fine, the mx-2 or mx-4 all only give like 5~ degrees difference from AS5. Big whoop.
 
jarosh said:
guys, on my new build hwmonitor is reporting a cputin idle temperature of ~90°. this makes no sense, as all the cores are at ~37°. what could be causing this?

I got that one time. Was a faulty reading. Reset and see if it says it again.
 
XiaNaphryz said:
So I started to slap together my wishlist. I'll likely be making the purchase within the next 2 months or so. I plan on doing some overclocking (but nothing on the extreme side) and want the flexibility to go SLI down the road. Main use will be video encoding, video editing, and gaming.

Everything looks great. The haf X case is one of the best as far as Im concerned for SLI. It has great flow.

However if you are buying in two months you are really getting into x79 28nm gpu territory. If I were building soon I would keep my ear to the ground about release dates for those products. I know x79 boards have already been spotted from all the major manufacturers. 28nm gpus should be pretty huge as well but those may not hit till Dec-Feb.

To quantify the difference between current gpu and 28nm gpus it could very well be a significant jump like the 8800gtx was or the 9800pros from ati at the time.
 
zazrx said:
Wow really? Damn those games are that damn demanding? :'( Is there a solution to that? SLI I'm guessing? If not maxed, how close to max? BTW if a games run at 30fps or more I'm fine with that, I don't need 60fps.
Yep, SLI 570s is where people head who want maximum performance regardless of price. The reason why TW2 and Metro 2033 don't run smoothly has a lot more to do with not being optimized than actually pushing insane graphics. I mean, the do that, just not optimized.
 
jarosh said:
it's constantly reporting a cputin temperature between 70 and 90°C. it wasn't just a one time spike...
Was using 1.17 HWmonitor and didn't show anything. Update to 1.18 and it stays at 60C.
 
ok guys, my brother has a makeshift rig. specs:
pentium d 820
8800gt 256mb
3gb ddr2 667

I might be able to get a free mobo and a pentium dual core 2200 from a friend(which OCs very well). I know this will provide a much better experience for him. If I want to upgrade it to a C2D though or a C2Q, since both are out of production, is there anywhere to buy them now at a cheap price? Newegg sells the ones they have at high ass prices(seriously, I'm not going to spend more than an i3 on an older chip lol).
 
Lkr said:
ok guys, my brother has a makeshift rig. specs:
pentium d 820
8800gt 256mb
3gb ddr2 667

I might be able to get a free mobo and a pentium dual core 2200 from a friend(which OCs very well). I know this will provide a much better experience for him. If I want to upgrade it to a C2D though or a C2Q, since both are out of production, is there anywhere to buy them now at a cheap price? Newegg sells the ones they have at high ass prices(seriously, I'm not going to spend more than an i3 on an older chip lol).

Socket 775 cpus are super overpriced.

Check craigslist or ebay, maybe you'll see something good.
 
Monitor questions: I'm very much considering purchasing either a 27in or 30in monitor in the coming weeks (most likely a 27in for cost consideration) and the monitors I am considering run at 2560x1440. I'm planning on building my gaming PC at around christmas time. What performance issues will I need to account for if I do get a 2560x1440 monitor? Will that necessitate a purchase of a high end card (eg 6970, 570) to run games decently at 2560? Does running games at 1920x1080 on a 2560x1440 monitor look bad? Ideally I'd like to take advantage of running games at glorious 2560x1440 resolution, but I don't want to go further than the $350 price range on GPUs.

My monitor purchase will last me for many years to come, which is why I'm looking at a larger screen with a higher resolution. I'd rather not settle for 1920x1080 unless there great reasons to reconsider.
 
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