"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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I was fairly certain most of the old stock was flushed or bought out already. Especially now.claviertekky said:
I think I had the strike through up until May just in case. Any large retailer should have newer drives.
I didn't check the manf. date on my F4 2TB but I did flash my own. Not the most fun.
For reference here is a user created .iso made for patching.
I have not used or tested this.
http://captaingeek.net/how-to/samsung-f4-ecogreen-f4eg-firmware-bug-patch/
Norton: buy last year's version (free upgrade to latest) or look for 2011 on sale. Should be able to find something for $20-30.jgminto said:
Windows Ultimate: buy student version or go builder oem.
Fatality sound card: you can get that refub card on Amazon for $75.
With those savings, you should be able to get a 570/580 video card.
why anyone would wanna install norton voluntarily, let alone PAY MONEY for it, is a mystery to me. save the money and upgrade the ram to 8 gigs or go with a bigger ssd. also, 750w seems overkill for a single gpu system. you could probably save some money there. whether the i7 is really necessary and worth it over the i5 is also debatable.
toastyToast
Member
Go for this SSD if you don't mind losing out on 14GBs. Much faster and you save a fair bit.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17684
Also for PSUs you can get a modular for the same price-ish
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_995&products_id=15350
That Windows is eating a big chunk too, are you sure you need Ultimate? Why not back down to pro and go OEM?
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17032
The feature comparison is there, honestly the added features of Ultimate are pretty much useless to most people.
The prices are in Australian dollars. We get raped on a few things here and there. Notice the SSD.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17684
Also for PSUs you can get a modular for the same price-ish
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_995&products_id=15350
That Windows is eating a big chunk too, are you sure you need Ultimate? Why not back down to pro and go OEM?
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17032
The feature comparison is there, honestly the added features of Ultimate are pretty much useless to most people.
Zoolader said:
The prices are in Australian dollars. We get raped on a few things here and there. Notice the SSD.
Goldrusher
Member
76,40 ... Asrock H67M B3
100,10 ... Intel Core i3 2100
45,00 ... G.SKILL 4GB DDR3 (2 x 2GB) (F3-10666CL9D-4GBNQ)
153,51 ... EVGA GeForce GTX 460 FPB
97,50 ... Crucial 64GB SSD SATA 3 (CT064M4SSD2CCA)
35,00 ... WD 500GB SATA 3 (WD5000AAKX)
46,00 ... be quiet! Pure Power L7 430W
80,00 ... Windows 7 Home Premium
----------------------------------------------------
633,51
Not too shabby.
100,10 ... Intel Core i3 2100
45,00 ... G.SKILL 4GB DDR3 (2 x 2GB) (F3-10666CL9D-4GBNQ)
153,51 ... EVGA GeForce GTX 460 FPB
97,50 ... Crucial 64GB SSD SATA 3 (CT064M4SSD2CCA)
35,00 ... WD 500GB SATA 3 (WD5000AAKX)
46,00 ... be quiet! Pure Power L7 430W
80,00 ... Windows 7 Home Premium
----------------------------------------------------
633,51
Not too shabby.
Hi guys this is my first post here 
I need your help, I have Phenom X4 3Ghz (stock), 4GB DDR3 ram and ATI 5830 1GB GPU. I want to update my PC so I can plan newest games on 1680X1050 on high settings.
So should I upgrade my CPU and GPU to something faster like phenom x4 3.4GHz and radeon 6870 or should i wait for new CPUs coming later this year?
I need your help, I have Phenom X4 3Ghz (stock), 4GB DDR3 ram and ATI 5830 1GB GPU. I want to update my PC so I can plan newest games on 1680X1050 on high settings.
So should I upgrade my CPU and GPU to something faster like phenom x4 3.4GHz and radeon 6870 or should i wait for new CPUs coming later this year?
Goldrusher
Member
It's like Christmas morning.blanky said:
fuck yeah! Gonna eat some, think it through and maybe go build ;p wish me luck. First time for me.
Funky Papa
FUNK-Y-PPA-4
That's a badass case you've got there. I also own an R3 and it's terrific.
LabouredSubterfuge
Member
Funky Papa said:
Yeah, I just got one delivered and it looks sexy. Can't wait to build.
What would be the best time to fit the monstrous Noctua CPU cooler? Before I put the motherboard in the R3 or when its in the case? I dont know how easily i can get to the fan connectors, as well as placing the motherboard with the cooler on. Probably best to do it when its in right?
blanky said:
Depends on the case and attachment mechanism. I've done plenty of builds where space is cramped once the motherboard is mounted, and the push-pins of LGA775 (have they changed for 1155?) can be a pain.
EDIT- If it has a backplate, you kind of need to do it beforehand
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
He's referring to that big mofo I linked to with an image a couple posts up. I'm not sure if you can get under that thing to the mounting screw holes if you mount the cooler beforehand. So I'd guess you'd have to put in the backplate while it's out of the case, mount it in, then put in the cooler.Appleman said:
Upgrade your GPU. A quadcore CPU is more then enough to run todays games and that 0.4GHz increase is barely noticeable and a waste of your money.Picobrain said:Hi guys this is my first post here
I need your help, I have Phenom X4 3Ghz (stock), 4GB DDR3 ram and ATI 5830 1GB GPU. I want to update my PC so I can plan newest games on 1680X1050 on high settings.
So should I upgrade my CPU and GPU to something faster like phenom x4 3.4GHz and radeon 6870 or should i wait for new CPUs coming later this year?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
If your case has an opening in the motherboard tray to access the backplate, then that's definitely your best option. Install motherboard then cooler.blanky said:
If not, XiaNaphryz's advice is probably your best bet.
Hey,
I am thinking for totaly upgrading my PC for the upcoming heavy rain of games, do you think from this spec i reall need to, i know that the video card i must, going to get me a GTX560 Ti soon.
Intel Q6600 - 2.4Ghz
2Gb Ram memory DDR2, 400Mhz
Motherboard: Asus P5K
Video Card: GT8800
Window 7, 64Bit
I am thinking for totaly upgrading my PC for the upcoming heavy rain of games, do you think from this spec i reall need to, i know that the video card i must, going to get me a GTX560 Ti soon.
Intel Q6600 - 2.4Ghz
2Gb Ram memory DDR2, 400Mhz
Motherboard: Asus P5K
Video Card: GT8800
Window 7, 64Bit
black_vegeta
Member
This is what I did when installing my Noctua. Easy process.XiaNaphryz said:
Darkone said:
You're probably OK with a video card upgrade, but I would try and swap your ram with 4GB of 800Mhz (at least) if you can find it for cheapish.
EDIT- Maybe also an overclock if you can get better ram? The Q6600 (even if it's not a G0) should be able to be cranked up a fair ways
toastyToast
Member
Darkone said:
This was my exact computer about a year ago haha. What I did was add a 5850 and a heatsink to my CPU and clocked it at 3.2GHz. Been sailing steadily since.
You might run into the occasional console port that only uses a single core/needs high clocks where it might not get you 60fps (always above 30) or something like BFBC2 (also playable maxed out at not quite 60) and likely 3 that love the newer quads . Other than those you'll be set.
toastyToast
Member
Darkone said:
I used a Xigmatek S1283, pretty similar design to the Coolermaster Hyper 212+ that GAF seems so fond of. Both are good budget choices.
The Xigmatek uses a push pin installation so you can install it without having to take out your mobo. I couldn't do it so I bought a backplate separately and installed it that way. If your case has a cutout for installing heatsinks it won't be much of an issue. Maybe just go with the Coolermaster.
Since we have pretty much the same mobo OCing was just a matter of getting into the BIOS and going to jumperfree configuration or somesuch. Go there and adjust your bus speed and your CPU ratio. YMMV with the ratio, mine likes 8 for some reason but you might be fine sticking with 9. Your final clock is the multiple of the bus speed and the CPU ratio, mine is 8x400 = 3.2GHz.
So set those and find a suitable core voltage. I have to make this abundantly clear, DO NOT EVER EVER GO OVER 1.5V, 1.4 even. To get to 3.0GHz only needs me to go up to 1.3V, you should see a nice little bump from just that. Just to be safe set it as 1.35V, 333 MHz core clock and 9 as the CPU ratio. I'm almost certain this should work on a vast number of Q6600s but the voltage might be a bit higher than necessary.
Once you've done all that comes testing for stabilty which is a tedious process. Install prime95 and get yourself a temperature monitoring program like Coretemp. Set prime95 to perform a blend test which will just tax the CPU (and RAM). Watch Coretemp over the course of say 6 hours, first thing you're checking for is if it's stable. If it isn't stable your computer will blue screen. If it doesn't, watch those temps. Don't let them get 70C, otherwise become more conservative with your clocks, go down a bit and reduce the voltage a smidgen. If it's stable, reduce that voltage 1 (0.025V) notch and repeat the process until you can get 3GHz stable at as low a voltage as possible.
That's about it really. It's a simple process, the only thing you could do wrong is mess with the CPU voltage and crank it too high. I don't think you'll need to worry about RAM timings with such a meagre overclock.
black_vegeta
Member
blanky said:
Yes, take off the fingerprint. You don't want any grease on it before applying the goo.
Use Isopropyl alcohol 70% or greater (90% is readily available) with a cloth or something that won't leave dust behind. Shouldn't be more than $3 or so for a smaller bottle.
Guys PC has been working fine but it was idle on the desktop and I left for about 25 minutes, came back and the monitor just says no signal. The machine is on, and I've tried restarting it but it still says no signal. I swapped the HDMI cable for another one and I tried connecting things via VGA but it still says no signal.
Anyone know what might be the problem.
Anyone know what might be the problem.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
I have a problem.
Lately my system has been random blue screening. Rarely, usually after long sittings, say ~6 hours. The event viewer seems to indicate the problem is event ID 41, or Kernal-Power. Something suss on the power front then.
The culprit might be overclocking, as I've been tinkering with the voltage to lower temps of my CPU. However, as it stands, the amount of voltage my CPU gets should be way more than enough to cover my OC. I always make sure to stress test each OC, and even with the CPU under 100% load and power maxed out the system does not blue screen.
The crash occurs completely out of the blue. No stressful software running. I'll be sitting here, as per usual, browsing the web, maybe have some music playing in the background, Steam idling, and bam. Blue screen crash coming at you like a wet flannel.
Any idea where I could start looking for the culprit? Faulty PSU?
Lately my system has been random blue screening. Rarely, usually after long sittings, say ~6 hours. The event viewer seems to indicate the problem is event ID 41, or Kernal-Power. Something suss on the power front then.
The culprit might be overclocking, as I've been tinkering with the voltage to lower temps of my CPU. However, as it stands, the amount of voltage my CPU gets should be way more than enough to cover my OC. I always make sure to stress test each OC, and even with the CPU under 100% load and power maxed out the system does not blue screen.
The crash occurs completely out of the blue. No stressful software running. I'll be sitting here, as per usual, browsing the web, maybe have some music playing in the background, Steam idling, and bam. Blue screen crash coming at you like a wet flannel.
Any idea where I could start looking for the culprit? Faulty PSU?
jgminto said:
Swap out the X-fi for a Xonar DX and use the freed-up coin to bump the RAM up to 2x4GB G.Skill sticks (PCCG have one such 8GB kit for $85). Even then you'll come out with some ~$40 saved.
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