The_Inquisitor
Member
Ugh fuck you texas. My low load temperatures are in the upper 40's on my i5-750. Time to scale back the overlock...
The_Inquisitor said:Ugh fuck you texas. My low load temperatures are in the upper 40's on my i5-750. Time to scale back the overlock...
Wallach said:I think you need to flip your X bracket 180 degrees.
Sounds like it shouldn't matter but there's a notch in the center that a pin has to slide into on the base of the HSF. Seems like it isn't there so that pin thing is instead pushing your entire X bracket up too high.
https://asus.4myrebate.com/Claim/OfferDetailsNewGrid/?Offercd=ASU-10231momolicious said:Is there any way to track down the ASUS rebate for May 2011? i bought one but the new rebate up on newegg shows from 6/1/2011 purchase... like a week after i bought it. This is for the ASUS 23'' LCD monitor btw.
OP build. You can buy fan filters if you like, but have to clean them pretty regularly.Nowy said:Your Current Specs: Intel Core 2 Quad Q8300(2.50GHz) / 4 Gigs DDR3 / Asus P5Q3 mobo / NVIDIA GeForce 9600GT 1GB
Budget: $500-600 USD
Main Use: Gaming, general usage
Monitor Resolution: 1680x1050 I might upgrade to 1080 later in the year
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Crysis 2, The Witcher 2, Valve games, Battlefield 3, Skyrim
Are reusing any parts?: The only thing I'm reusing is the Optical Drive
When will you build?: I want to build it this month
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe?
I have two dogs so my house has more dust than average. Is it wise to buy a case with a good dust filter? Is there anything I can add to the PC to prevent a bunch of dust from invading it? Thanks for the help.
Are you pushing down hard enough? If the screws align you just need to force it in pretty hard, it's not a light screw in process.Why are the screws so far from the standoffs? It's impossible to screw this thing on. I've watch numerous videos on the installation. Read numerous guides. What the hell is going on here? What did I do wrong? If I screw one end in then the opposing side is far to high up to screw down
Hazaro said:Are you pushing down hard enough? If the screws align you just need to force it in pretty hard, it's not a light screw in process.
e.g. Push down hard with a screwdriver using the top half of your body, then get in the first few turns. Then do 2 turns or so on the other side. Alternate. If you screw 1 side down all the way you might not be able push the other side down.
squicken said:I tried that. I made sure the back was connected properly. I'll try to get Cooler Master online support in the morning.
Fuck this. Not sure why I ever thought it be a good idea to do this myself. Gladly would have paid Microcenter $60 to avoid this hassle.
Wallach said:I don't mean the bracket on the back, the scissor bracket thing with the screws in it. You're sure the pin that is sticking out of the actual heatsink (it's maybe the size of a pencil tip) slid into its hole near the center of the scissor bracket?
take a picture of the x bar sitting on top of the cpu contact plate, and post it upsquicken said:Yes. I know the hole. It almost seems like that hot should be deeper so the scissor bracket could sit further down. If I can't get CM to provide any help I'll just look at that Corsair A70. No backplate required
Squick you know you can pull the screws up and slide them up and down the slots on the bracket right? Install sucked took me an hour to figure it all out. The little notch on the center of the x bracket kept throwing me off.squicken said:If pushed down any harder it would crush the CPu. I'm kind of worried I already messed it up. If you watch tutorial videos or guides, the screws naturally rest on the standoffs. It's just a matter of orienting them and screwing them in.
My screws are a quarter of an inch from even touching the standoffs, and if I screw on end of an arm in, it is impossible to get the other arm connected. I know to alternate. I've never screwed in more than one screw.
I think there's something wrong with the arm thing. The center screw/spring thing looks noticeably higher than in the guides and videos
Not that hole the small notch on the tension rod itself. Look carefully at the circular part of the tension rod. Very small but you'll see it.squicken said:Yes. I know the hole. It almost seems like that hot should be deeper so the scissor bracket could sit further down. If I can't get CM to provide any help I'll just look at that Corsair A70. No backplate required
squicken said:If pushed down any harder it would crush the CPu. I'm kind of worried I already messed it up. If you watch tutorial videos or guides, the screws naturally rest on the standoffs. It's just a matter of orienting them and screwing them in.
My screws are a quarter of an inch from even touching the standoffs, and if I screw on end of an arm in, it is impossible to get the other arm connected. I know to alternate. I've never screwed in more than one screw.
I think there's something wrong with the arm thing. The center screw/spring thing looks noticeably higher than in the guides and videos
The Teachinator said:Not that hole the small notch on the tension rod itself. Look carefully at the circular part of the tension rod. Very small but you'll see it.
Post your problem on Anandtech and [H]OCP and see if you get any advice.squicken said:Not sure what you're talking about? Lower arm has little bumps that slot in to the upper arm's little holes?
I'm done with it for the day. I'm not lying when I say I have watched a rewatched the official CM Youtube video 10 times. I have watched the Newegg PC build using the Hyper 212+ 10 times. I have read several tutorials. I'll start again tomorrow but I really think this unit is defective.
squicken said:I've got it up on Tom's Hardware and it's mostly the same suggestions you guys are giving.
@Teachinator What holes are you referring to. Here is a huge picture from a guy over at TH
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/249/dsc02982q.jpg
I think the quality of posts on the websites I listed would be better.squicken said:I've got it up on Tom's Hardware and it's mostly the same suggestions you guys are giving.
@Teachinator What holes are you referring to. Here is a huge picture from a guy over at TH
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/249/dsc02982q.jpg
Soka said:Finished my build yesterday. First time I've ever built a PC. Plugged it in, hit the power button, and what the fuck it actually worked.
Wallach said:The notches on the underside of the center are where that pin coming out of the top of the actual heatsink needs to slot:
Soka said:Oh, so, what do I do now in regards to tweaking. I'm already in the process of disabling Windows processes/services I don't need, TRIM is enabled for my SSD, and I've got all the basic software (Steam, MSE, Winrar, etc). Anything I'm overlooking in regards to maintenance and performance?
I haven't been following this issue and any of the suggestions that have been made, but assuming your bracket is situated like the one in the image above, you'd need to reorient it.squicken said:I've got it up on Tom's Hardware and it's mostly the same suggestions you guys are giving.
@Teachinator What holes are you referring to. Here is a huge picture from a guy over at TH
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/249/dsc02982q.jpg
The Stealth Fox said:Alright, I installed a Scythe Big Shuriken on a Phenom II X4 955BE, and I'm actually getting temps that are slightly hotter than the stock cooler. Why? Is this fan bought normally for quietness (which is quiet as hell, it only spins at around 1500 rpm under load), or should it actually cool better than the stock AMD fan? I ran prime95 and I actually hit 70 for the first time ever.
Also, what could I have possibly done wrong in installing it?
n0n44m said:-improperly installed -> not enough pressure on the cpu
-no(t enough)/far too much thermal paste
-fan blowing the wrong way ?
but it is mainly made for silence (htpc market) , not for absolute performance ... they've got the Mugen 2 for that
That seems overpriced. You should be able to get a XFX / Corsair 750W for that much I think. Or around there.Ezahn said:Just a last check before I click the BUY button of DOOM ;-)
Alimentatore PC Corsair Gaming Series GS600 600W 80plus 64,80
(thought behind this, after reading the OP: going single card only, no SLI and only very slight overclocking)
Binabik15 said:-XFX 6950 because of this 6950 unlocking statistic, second highest sample size and a very high success rate. Might be intersting for the OP? -Make sure it is the reference one. There are at least 2 models of the XFX 6950.
-The Corsair Vengeance RAM because it was tested well by pcgameshardware. 8 gigs instead of 4 would be relatively cheap (~70) as well, but that´d be overkill for gaming, right? 8 is overkill for gaming, yes
-The HDD is a bit troubling. I can´t find Spinpoint F4s over 320 gigs, only F3s. The Ecogreen is in my cart because search for Spinpoint F4 turned it up and I clicked without checking, would a Spinpoint F3 series be better? The F4 is the 2TB. F3 is 1TB. The 2TB is a better size value and is very close in speed due to its high platter density. I ran one as an OS drive and had no problems at all.
-PSU: Is it really enough for Crossfire´d, possibly unlocked 6950s and and OC 2500k? HardOCP numbers would add up to ~650Watts, but I´ve seen test that claimed up to 250 Watts per unlocked 6950, which would put the system very close to actual PSU perfomance. Upgrading to a Corsair 850HX would be quite steep, but that thing got ace reviews. If you clock up everything you do want some headroom. I'll give you the ok to get the 850w
That´s a case (no pun inteded) of personal taste, I´d say. Still, how big would it have to be for 2 6950s and an aftermarket CPU cooler (probably the Hypermaster from OP, but that thing is huuuge)? 6950 is a very long card 10.5 or 11" so you want to pick a case and type 'case + 6950' into google
So many lucky people! What cooler is that?Thaedolus said:Holy shit balls I got it to POST on the first try!
(Seriously...I don't think that's ever happened haha)
n0n covered most of it. Did you leave the plastic cover on?The Stealth Fox said:Alright, I installed a Scythe Big Shuriken on a Phenom II X4 955BE, and I'm actually getting temps that are slightly hotter than the stock cooler. Why? Is this fan bought normally for quietness (which is quiet as hell, it only spins at around 1500 rpm under load), or should it actually cool better than the stock AMD fan? I ran prime95 and I actually hit 70 for the first time ever.
Also, what could I have possibly done wrong in installing it?
Sucks. Hope the replacement works and they tell you what was wrong. Heatsink replacement is an absolute pain for me.squicken said:As I started again this morning the spring and screws on the retention rod flew apart. Packed it up and sending it back.
Hazaro said:That seems overpriced. You should be able to get a XFX / Corsair 750W for that much I think. Or around there.
It's not a bad supply, but I'd like you to get something a tad more concrete for a 580.
A Corsair TX/HX will be a step up in quality as well.
ElyrionX said:Thanks for this.
I'm going for the 320 160GB but now I'm thinking 120GB would be adequate. Is the random write speed significantly slower than the 160GB? It's a lot of money to spend on such a low capacity drive and I'd rather go cheap now while the technology is relatively new and expensive.
As for the 6950, unfortunately, I already took the plunge on the GTX 560Ti Twin Frozr II today. Just thought I'd save myself some hassle and money. I wouldn't have the time for too much gaming anyway so it wouldn't make sense to pay more for a card that would be underutilized as it's slowly becoming obsolete.
Nope. I'll try putting back the stock fan and see if everything goes back to normal. It could be my technique.Hazaro said:n0n covered most of it. Did you leave the plastic cover on?
barnone said:I am considering jumping on the $1000 build in the OP. I've got a few questions though.
1. Are there any good alternatives to the CPU cooler in this build? I can't find any in stock on newegg or amazon.
2. Can anyone recommend a case? I prefer cooling first, silence second, and don't care for looks.
3. Any guess on how long this computer would last? I am mostly going to be playing Battlefield 3 and SW The Old Republic in the foreseeable future.
4. I won't be going too high resolution (probably 1080p or 1920x1200 or something), so should I even care about SLI upgrade path?
Thanks broskies
It would seem so. Intel LGA 1155 CPUs are currently the best at titles like SC2, so it's only a matter of which specific one you choose to add in.Subliminal said:I'll start by saying: Completely new to this, From the UK.
Looking into getting a neat machine, Looking at some barebones bundles
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/268608
This one seems ok, Am I correct in thinking this is the Motherboard, PSU and Case? They're really the ones that I don't want to handle that much, I can insert ram, harddrives, disc drives and graphics cards easily.
So
1) Is this decent for moderate use, Occasional SC2 etc
2) What else do I need?
What's your budget?barnone said:I am considering jumping on the $1000 build in the OP. I've got a few questions though.
1. Are there any good alternatives to the CPU cooler in this build? I can't find any in stock on newegg or amazon.
2. Can anyone recommend a case? I prefer cooling first, silence second, and don't care for looks.
3. Any guess on how long this computer would last? I am mostly going to be playing Battlefield 3 and SW The Old Republic in the foreseeable future.
4. I won't be going too high resolution (probably 1080p or 1920x1200 or something), so should I even care about SLI upgrade path?
Thanks broskies
Soka said:So, booted up my PC this morning and my top exhaust fan doesn't want to spin up. It's standard with my case (Thermaltake BlacX V9) if that matters. When I flip on the power, the fan spins a smidge (maybe a cm) then stops. Any thoughts on how to correct this? Thinking of double checking that nothing is blocking it (like a random wire) and then reseating the connector on both ends.
1) The Noctua NH-D14 is a great cooler, but costs quite a bit more, but I see quite a few Coolermaster Hyper 212+ available on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
2) Cases are basically personal preference, but, the Corsair 600T is absolutely awesome from what I hear.
3) I can't imagine it not "lasting" for several years, and you can always upgrade a single component here or there as needed.
4) Personally, I wouldn't touch SLI or Crossfire for sanity's sake, but admittedly I've never tried either.
I'd drop money on the ASRock regardless since it should be a better board (regs mainly) in the long term. As for 570 vs 580 look at the benchmarks from sites in the OP and desice how much power you think you will need. A clocked 570 is a fairly strong card and I think it will at least tide you over until start of next year when the new series come out.Ezahn said:Thanks Haz. Would a Corsair TX650 v2 be ok for a 580?
It's getting really hard to decide between these two options:
- MSI C43 + 580 (upgrade: future new single card)
- Asrock P67 + 570 (upgrade path: future 570 SLI)
It shows that's my first build, it's taking me a lifetime to decide! (I even considered - being a Mac user for general computing - a new iMac 27'' with 6970 for playing in Bootcamp... ^^)
·feist· said:It would seem so. Intel LGA 1155 CPUs are currently the best at titles like SC2, so it's only a matter of which specific one you choose to add in.
The PSU would limit you to using the CPU's iGP, or a very low end discreet GPU. You would still need a copy of Win7, HDD, possible ODD, CPU, possible GPU, and a few other loose ends.
What's your budget?
A single GTX 570 can play anything at those resolutions, and the build as a whole can last you for years of quality gaming (especially if you overclock).
The Hyper 212+ is in stock at Amazon. It's also priced lowest at Micro Center.
Take a look at these three for inexpensive HSFs:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=26560467#post26560467
Hazaro said:I'd drop money on the ASRock regardless since it should be a better board (regs mainly) in the long term. As for 570 vs 580 look at the benchmarks from sites in the OP
At that price I'd start with cases like the Cooler Master HAF 922, and Fractal Design Arc (should be on Newegg and NCIX this month). Cooler Master's CM 690 II Advanced has good stock cooling, and has one of the most flexible cooling arrangements of any case. You can setup nearly any type of airflow you want to suit your specific needs. I's also add the Lian Li Lancool PC-K62, Rosewill Blackhawk, and possibly the Corsair Carbide 400R.barnone said:For the case I was hoping to spend around $100 or less. But if I have to sacrifice a lot of quality for this price range I am willing to go up.
Good place to start.barnone said:Edit: how does this look?
Meus Renaissance said:Is the price worth it from an i5 2500k to an i7 2600k? I would like to do some HD video editing from time to time, but also game on it. I want this machine to last me at least 3-4 years
Thaedolus said:Holy shit balls I got it to POST on the first try!
http://hphotos-snc6.fbcdn.net/244384_564377936159_122800637_31802445_912183_o.jpg/
(Seriously...I don't think that's ever happened haha)
SRG01 said:I don't understand this... don't most computers POST on the first try?