black_vegeta
Member
Smokey said:
I checked the "unlock voltage" box, but I still can't change the Core Voltage. >8(
"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I checked the "unlock voltage" box, but I still can't change the Core Voltage. >8(
toastyToast
Member
Nothing at all. You gain the ability to use the onboard gpu for video transcoding (it's really quick) and the ability to use an SSD as a cache for your main HDD.legend166 said:
I think it has a USB 3.0 front panel header which the P67 didn't too.
edit: oops, thought you linked the z68 extreme4. Let me take a look.
The big difference I'm seeing is that it only allows for single graphics card setups with only one PCIex16 slot. It might not allow for as heavy overclocks as the more expensive mobos either. Other than that (from what I can see) it looks just fine. If you want compare the feature list with the z68 extreme4 to see if there is anything I missed.
black_vegeta said:
Really?
That's weird. I just unchecked it and it disabled editing of it, checked it and it came back after a restart.
You can always use the ASUS software that came with the card. I used it for awhile. Nothing wrong with it and gets the job done. You just can't get all of the cool stats and stuff on your screen while playing.
black_vegeta
Member
Smokey said:
Alright, I'll check it out again. I didn't restart my PC after I checked it. If that does work, I'll use ASUS tool.
Edit: hhmmmmmm
black_vegeta
Member
RiverBed said:
Use the top slot. 16x speed.
black_vegeta
Member
RiverBed said:
No prob. The other one is 8x
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0364229WonkersTHEWatilla said:
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0366621
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0364206
You might want to get a Z68 motherboard as you can do more with onboard video from Z68 motherboards if you are interested in that. It will also allow overclocking.caffeinedreamer said:I've been gaming on laptops for the past seven years, and this is my first "proper" PC, so please play nice!
Any feedback re: RAM being rubbish, etc. would be appreciated!
Current Specs:
Shuttle XPC SH67H3 LGA1155/ Intel H67/ SATA3&USB3.0/ A&V&GbE/ 300W Mini PC Barebone System
CPU: Intel Core i7 Processor i7-2600 3.4GHz 8MB LGA1155 CPU, Retail
Memory: Super Talent DDR3-1333 8GB (2x 4GB) Dual Channel Value Memory Kit
Video Card: EVGA nVidia GeForce GTX570 1280MB DDR5 2DVI/HDMI/DisplayPort PCI-Express
SSD Bracket: Super Talent 2.5" to 3.5"
SSD: Micron 2.5 inch 128GB RealSSD C400 SATA3 (MLC)
HDD1: Seagate Barracuda XT ST33000651AS 3TB SATA3 7200rpm 64MB NCQ
HDD2: Seagate Barracuda XT ST33000651AS 3TB SATA3 7200rpm 64MB NCQ
Power Supply Upgrade Kit: Shuttle PC63J 500W 80 PLUS Bronze ATX 12V
Overclocking?: No (not possible on this mobo to my understanding)
My personal opinion would be to go with dual 2TB drives (WD blacks or Samsung F4's) as they are more established. Early adoption of bigger drives usually has more failures than normal. If you need the extra 2TB those give you then get those.
Wow that's a crazy deal if the rebate goes through. A 460 is extremely capable and should meet what you want out of it.Sketch_Turntable said:
Measure the amount of HDD space you have and see if you can fit a 9.5" card (or whatever length it is).zychi said:
New PSU = XFX Core 450W.
MSI GD-55 / ASUS P8P67 / Gigabyte UD3legend166 said:
Good frames at 1080p, high settings.SickBoy said:
ASrock is a good board, other boards are in the price range, but it's the lower budget H67 market so competition is so-so.
1155 is upgradeable with Sandy Bridge quadcores, and, if Intel follows it's roadmap, compatible with Ivy Bridge in 2012. As far as a 460 will last, think of it as a 8800GT/7900GS/1950.
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
Is the Vertex 2 as unreliable as it sounds?
I just snatched a second one but these Newegg reviews seem harsh.
I just snatched a second one but these Newegg reviews seem harsh.
got2bekidding
Member
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1024 x 768 (I guess? That's what it's set on atm)
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: WoW, SWTOR
Are reusing any parts?: SONY CD-RW CRX217E, SONY DVD-ROM DDU1615
When will you build?: Late this month/early next month
Will you be overclocking?: No
I'm wanting to build a gaming pc on a budget. This is pretty much what I can spend and came up with using the OP and newegg DIY builds. I wanted to see if everything was compatible and would run well before I threw it in the shopping cart. I'll be playing mainly WoW and SWTOR.
On a side note, to save money, I planned on using my old DVD-ROM/DVD RW drives. My current computer is old as dirt, but I assume they would work. (model numbers are above)
Thanks for any input/advice/knowledge-dropping as it's welcomed. Also, let me know if I'm missing anything since I'm new at this.
Stupid question of the post...Do I need a sound card?
Monitor Resolution: 1024 x 768 (I guess? That's what it's set on atm)
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: WoW, SWTOR
Are reusing any parts?: SONY CD-RW CRX217E, SONY DVD-ROM DDU1615
When will you build?: Late this month/early next month
Will you be overclocking?: No
I'm wanting to build a gaming pc on a budget. This is pretty much what I can spend and came up with using the OP and newegg DIY builds. I wanted to see if everything was compatible and would run well before I threw it in the shopping cart. I'll be playing mainly WoW and SWTOR.
On a side note, to save money, I planned on using my old DVD-ROM/DVD RW drives. My current computer is old as dirt, but I assume they would work. (model numbers are above)
Thanks for any input/advice/knowledge-dropping as it's welcomed. Also, let me know if I'm missing anything since I'm new at this.
Stupid question of the post...Do I need a sound card?
Manos: The Hans of Fate
Banned
Well shit was a bit hairy, but I got a post screen saying CPU or memory changed screen (since there is no hd or os I guess this is normal). The beeps are weird two normal followed by one long one, but I can find any documentation on what it might be, but everything (masssive fucking knock on wood) is going well known and it it's time to move from external to internal. So much for sleep.
Found a cheaper site so this is what I've got:
AsRock Z68-Pro3 Intel Z68 DDR3 DVI HDMI SATA3 1155pin Motherboard
Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3Ghz 1155pin Boxed CPU
G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL 8G Kit(4Gx2) DDR3 1600
Inno3D 1280M GTX570 PCI-E VGA Card
Coolermaster RC-912A-KWN1 HAF 912 Advanced NO PSU
Seasonic M12II-620Watt 80Plus Bronze Power Supply Unit
I heard Inno3D was crap, so I might have to swap that out.
GTX 570 vs 6970 - what should I go for?
AsRock Z68-Pro3 Intel Z68 DDR3 DVI HDMI SATA3 1155pin Motherboard
Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3Ghz 1155pin Boxed CPU
G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL 8G Kit(4Gx2) DDR3 1600
Inno3D 1280M GTX570 PCI-E VGA Card
Coolermaster RC-912A-KWN1 HAF 912 Advanced NO PSU
Seasonic M12II-620Watt 80Plus Bronze Power Supply Unit
I heard Inno3D was crap, so I might have to swap that out.
GTX 570 vs 6970 - what should I go for?
toastyToast
Member
legend166 said:
Only thing I can think of is getting the video card from MSY, they're selling 560ti's for $199.
Otherwise that's a good budget build.
Manos: The Hans of Fate
Banned
Putting a motherboard in a case is more proof God hates left handed people. Lol
Cheaper Case.legend166 said:I'm not planning on running any SLi/Crossfire (is that what ATi still call it?) Or doing any heavy overclocking, so no biggie.
How's this for a build:
Aus prices. Anywhere I can shave off some dollars without any taking any performance hits?
XFX Core 550W.
You need SATA DVD drives. No IDE on many 1155 boards.got2bekidding said:Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1024 x 768 (I guess? That's what it's set on atm)
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: WoW, SWTOR
Are reusing any parts?: SONY CD-RW CRX217E, SONY DVD-ROM DDU1615
When will you build?: Late this month/early next month
Will you be overclocking?: No
I'm wanting to build a gaming pc on a budget. This is pretty much what I can spend and came up with using the OP and newegg DIY builds. I wanted to see if everything was compatible and would run well before I threw it in the shopping cart. I'll be playing mainly WoW and SWTOR.
On a side note, to save money, I planned on using my old DVD-ROM/DVD RW drives. My current computer is old as dirt, but I assume they would work. (model numbers are above)
Thanks for any input/advice/knowledge-dropping as it's welcomed. Also, let me know if I'm missing anything since I'm new at this.
Stupid question of the post...Do I need a sound card?
No soundcard needed.
You can go H67 board since the 2100 cannot overclock (unless you want OC for later).
black_vegeta
Member
Smokey said:
Got MSI AB to work. Downloaded the the 2.2 Beta and it allows me to adjust the CV.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=29275024&postcount=5100
would you guys say I priced this accordingly? Should I go lower or is the deal I'm giving good as is?
would you guys say I priced this accordingly? Should I go lower or is the deal I'm giving good as is?
got2bekidding
Member
I appreciate your advice. It turns out I would have gone over budget since after looking at what I posted, I noticed I completely forgot to add a hard drive. So I tweaked my OP a bit and went with a package deal and added a graphics card. Hopefully this will do me right this time.Hazaro said:
I would have liked to have stuck with a lot of my original choices, but money is tight atm. Overclocking would have been a good option to have for the way-distant future and it seemed like a good bit of what I had picked originally would have been easy to upgrade. I'm not so sure about the future upgrades to this rig though. I guess as long as this will play what I want it to, I'll be happy.....for awhile anyways
I need assistance, please. I am building my PC and learning how to as I go (best way to learn is to do, right?).
I have two questions about the HDD LED light plug that comes from the chase/PC case. I have an Antec 900 case, by the by.
1-Do I connect the case's HDD LED indicator to the HDD itself or to the mobo?
I connected it to the mobo, so now my actual HDD's two pins are not being used.
2- There is a mobo connection thing with a lot of plugs for case power, case reset, etc. How do I know the wire's +/-? I decided white is positive. Was I correct? Also, I didn't use up all the mobo's pins. shouldn't I especially since each double pins seem to have an important function written on them?
Here's the mobo part I am talking about and the mobo's manual about that part:
3- My case has a 1394 (I think it is IEEE?) cable. It isn't connected to anything. Should I connect it to the mobo? If so, where?
my case: Antec 900
Mobo: Gigabyte ga-p67a-d3-b3
Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.
I have two questions about the HDD LED light plug that comes from the chase/PC case. I have an Antec 900 case, by the by.
1-Do I connect the case's HDD LED indicator to the HDD itself or to the mobo?
I connected it to the mobo, so now my actual HDD's two pins are not being used.
2- There is a mobo connection thing with a lot of plugs for case power, case reset, etc. How do I know the wire's +/-? I decided white is positive. Was I correct? Also, I didn't use up all the mobo's pins. shouldn't I especially since each double pins seem to have an important function written on them?
Here's the mobo part I am talking about and the mobo's manual about that part:
3- My case has a 1394 (I think it is IEEE?) cable. It isn't connected to anything. Should I connect it to the mobo? If so, where?
my case: Antec 900
Mobo: Gigabyte ga-p67a-d3-b3
Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.
If you are tight on cash it's not bad.got2bekidding said:I appreciate your advice. It turns out I would have gone over budget since after looking at what I posted, I noticed I completely forgot to add a hard drive. So I tweaked my OP a bit and went with a package deal and added a graphics card. Hopefully this will do me right this time.
I would have liked to have stuck with a lot of my original choices, but money is tight atm. Overclocking would have been a good option to have for the way-distant future and it seemed like a good bit of what I had picked originally would have been easy to upgrade. I'm not so sure about the future upgrades to this rig though. I guess as long as this will play what I want it to, I'll be happy.....for awhile anyways
1) Keep it on moboRiverBed said:I need assistance, please. I am building my PC and learning how to as I go (best way to learn is to do, right?).
I have two questions about the HDD LED light plug that comes from the chase/PC case. I have an Antec 900 case, by the by.
1-Do I connect the case's HDD LED indicator to the HDD itself or to the mobo?
I connected it to the mobo, so now my actual HDD's two pins are not being used.
2- There is a mobo connection thing with a lot of plugs for case power, case reset, etc. How do I know the wire's +/-? I decided white is positive. Was I correct? Also, I didn't use up all the mobo's pins. shouldn't I especially since each double pins seem to have an important function written on them?
Here's the mobo part I am talking about and the mobo's manual about that part:
3- My case has a 1394 (I think it is IEEE?) cable. It isn't connected to anything. Should I connect it to the mobo? If so, where?
my case: Antec 900
Mobo: Gigabyte ga-p67a-d3-b3
Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.
2) there are pluses on the motherboard side. Power and reset don't care which way they are HDD LED will work one way but not the other. Just change it if it's not on.
3) Don't need to. Mobo should say 1394 on the board next to a 2x5 pin block (like USB) on the bottom left part of the board.
Manos: The Hans of Fate
Banned
It's in the cage and successfully boot tested! I just need to figure out how to hook up the hd and optical drive, the fans that come with the case, and make the wires less of a death trap lol. It was hard and at times terrifying, and I'm tired as shit, but man watching it boot successfully gave me such a sense of satisfaction. I'll post some pics in a few hours so I can get an some ideas on wire placement and what to do about the hd and optical. Otherwise it looks like it's time to start installing!
I'm building my computer at the moment and I'm about ready to start putting the motherboard into my case, but I need some help.
This is my first time building a pc from scratch. I've got an ASUS p8p67 pro B3 revision motherboard and a Fractal R3 case. I think I've found all the motherboard-type screws in a box with the case, but I'm not sure how to install them. There are a bunch of holes in the case where the motherboard goes. Anyone got a tut what holes to use etc?
This is my first time building a pc from scratch. I've got an ASUS p8p67 pro B3 revision motherboard and a Fractal R3 case. I think I've found all the motherboard-type screws in a box with the case, but I'm not sure how to install them. There are a bunch of holes in the case where the motherboard goes. Anyone got a tut what holes to use etc?
You need power wire converter.Darkone said:
Example: Molex to PCI-E:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812887001
black_vegeta
Member
Manos: The Hans of Fate said:
Awesome! The wife needs to reward you with some loving.
Manos: The Hans of Fate said:
You shouldn't be able to screw up installing the HDD and optical drive. They've got big, one way connectors that can't be improperly plugged in.
I'm a bit wary of Microcenter selling you that refurb 800w PSU that Newegg reviews have panned as a POS, especially under the guise of the other PSU being insufficient (it should have had enough power), but other than that, it seems like your build is coming along great. I just hope you won't have to replace the PSU at some point. If it does work out, 800w is a steal at that price, so I guess it was worth the risk.
Good luck with the rest of your build.
Man the saga of this monitor from Scan.co.uk won't end. They received it on Monday after having to chase them up on the phone 3 times for an RMA. They test it the same day and detect the fault. Great I think, all they have to do it send a replacement and it's in stock!
"Yeah you might get it at the end of the week or early next week."
Go fuck yourselves scan. I can't recommend people shop elsewhere enough.
"Yeah you might get it at the end of the week or early next week."
Go fuck yourselves scan. I can't recommend people shop elsewhere enough.
Manos: The Hans of Fate said:
Wait.
So you are building it yourself? Wife had a change of heart ?
black_vegeta said:Got MSI AB to work. Downloaded the the 2.2 Beta and it allows me to adjust the CV.
Sweet
Go to work on that new card
Don't blow it up !
jambo said:
Why are you looking to upgrade your 570? Frames? Or just want to make a change?
mandiller said:
There's generally around 9 holes in a motherboard, which correspond with 9 holes in the case. But as most cases also have options for m-ATX and other variants, there are a lot more holes. So you can just carefully lay the motherboard in the case and measure which holes need those 'lifting screws' inserted into them.
Interfectum
Member
A bit new to this overclocking thing...
For Geforce GTX 570, what are some of you overclocking it to? I bumped mine up a little bit and saw a good net gain. (850 / 2100) I've also overclocked my i5 2500 to 4.4, with barely any temp gain.
I use that SF4 benchmark (high res, max effects, AA x16, v-sync off, etc). Before I overclocked my cpu/gpu, I was pulling around 220 FPS, now I'm pulling ~270 FPS. Does that sound about right, performance wise?
For Geforce GTX 570, what are some of you overclocking it to? I bumped mine up a little bit and saw a good net gain. (850 / 2100) I've also overclocked my i5 2500 to 4.4, with barely any temp gain.
I use that SF4 benchmark (high res, max effects, AA x16, v-sync off, etc). Before I overclocked my cpu/gpu, I was pulling around 220 FPS, now I'm pulling ~270 FPS. Does that sound about right, performance wise?
toastyToast
Member
The SF4 benchmark is all gpu from what I've noticed.
To see the effect if OCing your CPU try one of the DoW2 games.
4.5GHz is what most aim for on the 2500K and that's a pretty nice gain. Try to see how far you can go without increasing your Vcore past 1.3V.
To see the effect if OCing your CPU try one of the DoW2 games.
4.5GHz is what most aim for on the 2500K and that's a pretty nice gain. Try to see how far you can go without increasing your Vcore past 1.3V.
Thanks for the advice, may drop down to the 2TB drives.Hazaro said:
No Shuttles have Z68 motherboards and they are all custom fitted so I'm a bit out of luck on that front. Don't really want to OC anything in such a tight case with so little options for cooling either.
Cheers!
Manos: The Hans of Fate
Banned
LOLblack_vegeta said:Awesome! The wife needs to reward you with some loving.
Yeah, once she heard the price and that I can still bring it in if I get cold feet or screwed up, she had less issues.Smokey said:
It got better once I realized I could remove the fans first. I still constantly felt I was destroying the board to various degrees at various points. lolEltacoman said:
LordCanti said:
They said it had to do with the voltage, and from what I noticed it it did seem their was a difference. I wasn't as worried since they did test the unit first and I did numerous boot tests and it worked fine.
With the hard drive and optical I hooked up the cables, but I could get the cd drive to pop open. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Granted that was at 4:00 Am when my mind was shot to shit, but I am now able to power via the case, so I consider it something I'll solve, but I'd love any advice. EDIT: I forget to connect it to the power supply also DUH!
Oddly the chip fan (while spinning during my external tests) was not spinning once in the case. I have no clue if it means something. Hell, it didn't spin during a couple of early initial tests, but that was because I hadn't fully snapped it in.I swear a bunch of issues came from me being too timid at first to push things in. Though in fairness videos made it seem like you had to handle it like it was the Royal Penis or something. lol
Speaking of fans for the ones that the case comes with I just hook those into those moxi/mobi/mopi/etc sockets in the power supply right?
Oh MSI what the hell is with your odd Boot Test Beep! I thought it was screwed up for a while lol.
Some pics of the fire hazard 40K
Please give some advice on wire hiding or any comments in general. 
Manos: The Hans of Fate said:
I guess me and Microcenter are going to have to agree to disagree on the issue of that PSU. It wouldn't have been my first choice, but the budget was so tight, and there weren't a whole lot of options around that price. Either way, as long as that PSU is functioning, it isn't an issue. I'm glad it worked out.
Your CPU fan isn't spinning? That is a big problem (or did I misunderstand the issue you were having?)
The other fans seem to be regular molex fans (not controlled by the mobo). Just plug them into the PSU, and you should be good to go there.
As for cable management, basically you'll want to route everything behind the motherboard. There are holes cutout specifically for this purpose, so you should use them. Even if the cables don't need to go very far (like for PCI-E power), run the cable behind the mobo anyway, and have it come up and snap into place. That should take care of most of that wire mess. Don't worry about getting it too tidy, because it really isn't a fire hazard, despite your wife's misgivings (just make sure no wires are touching a fan). Your temperatures shouldn't be horribly hindered either.
(Here's my current rig as an example. I've been at this for years, and this is as tidy as I care to get my cables. Others would scoff, but I spend exactly zero time looking through my side panel window, as this computer is in a closet fifty feet away from me so that I can't hear it. You don't have four HDD's to contend with, so yours should be much tidier anyway.)
It's time to load up some games!
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