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[Saren is Bad]

I just built that capable build in the op. It will not start. This has happened to me three builds in a row, and it's annoying as shit. I tried two PSU's. I tried reseating the Heatsink. Nothing is working. If it's that stupid power switch being on the wrong pins, I'm gonna rage.

EDIT: I tired the power switch like 4 different ways. Nothing. Is this a possible DOA Mobo?

This will be a pain in the ass, but take it out and resemble outside the case?

 

[toastyToast]

info

Sweet, I found a RAM compatibility list on Noctua's website and it looks like the modules I plan to go with (G.Skill Sniper) will fit snug underneath the D14.

Done deciding. New build will consist of

CPU: i5 2500K
Mobo: GB Z68X-UD3H
RAM: G.Skill Sniper 1600 8GB
HSF: Noctua NH-D14 (even though it'd ruin the all black aesthetic)
GPU: HIS HD5850
Sound Card: Asus Xonar ST
Case: Corsair 650D

Gonna get this hooked up in the next week or two provided my money situation stays ok.

Just wondering, if I slap my old HDDs in, will I run into any issues? I stupidly installed my non-OEM Windows 7 on a new HDD while my old one was still plugged in. As of now I have to boot from the old OEM Vista HDD to be given the option to choose which OS to run. I'm afraid the Vista will crap out on me once I move to a new system and my 7 is tied to it.

Is there a way to split them apart? They're on 2 physically separate drives.

 

[vocab]

This will be a pain in the ass, but take it out and resemble outside the case?

I did.

 

[Saren is Bad]

I did.

Oh lawd, green light on motherboard?

 

[j-wood]

I'm about to order my new PC! I sold my gaming desktop last year, and now is the time to get it back. Here is what I have picked out...can I get some opinions on this machine? Total cost (with a logtitech G9x, MS sidewinder x4 keyboard, and windows 7 home) was $1260.00

Case - Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Black Steel ATX Full Tower Unbeatable Gaming Case
Model #:Twelve Hundred V3
Item #:N82E16811129100

Motherboard - ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Model #67 EXTREME4 (B3)
Item #:N82E16813157229

Video Card - EVGA 01G-P3-1372-TR GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) Superclocked 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video ...
Model #:01G-P3-1372-TR
Item #:N82E16814130571

PSU - Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Model #:BP550 Plus
Item #:N82E16817371016

CPU - Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K
Model #:BX80623I72600K
Item #:N82E16819115070

RAM - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM
Model #:F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM
Item #:N82E16820231275

HDD - Western Digital Caviar Black WD5002AALX 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Model #:WD5002AALX
Item #:N82E16822136795

 

[Coldsnap]

I still think my computer is a zombie.
This is what my network looks with only steam, facebook, gmail, and gaf open.



That download is way too high yet Microsoft Security Essentials picks up nothing.

 

[vocab]

Oh lawd, green light on motherboard?

I never had a motherboard with a green light. It doesn't do shit when I hit power.

 

[comrade]

I'm about to order my new PC! I sold my gaming desktop last year, and now is the time to get it back. Here is what I have picked out...can I get some opinions on this machine? Total cost (with a logtitech G9x, MS sidewinder x4 keyboard, and windows 7 home) was $1260.00

Case - Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Black Steel ATX Full Tower Unbeatable Gaming Case
Model #:Twelve Hundred V3
Item #:N82E16811129100

Motherboard - ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Model #67 EXTREME4 (B3)
Item #:N82E16813157229

Video Card - EVGA 01G-P3-1372-TR GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) Superclocked 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video ...
Model #:01G-P3-1372-TR
Item #:N82E16814130571

PSU - Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Model #:BP550 Plus
Item #:N82E16817371016

CPU - Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K
Model #:BX80623I72600K
Item #:N82E16819115070

RAM - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM
Model #:F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM
Item #:N82E16820231275

HDD - Western Digital Caviar Black WD5002AALX 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Model #:WD5002AALX
Item #:N82E16822136795

If you don't need HyperThreading you can save money going to an i5 2500k. Will perform the same in games.

 

[hypernima]

I don't know if it's bm to ask again but could someone check my build, just trying to see if i7 would be worth or not.

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=28832892&postcount=2178

 

[mkenyon]

@j-wood That looks stupid expensive. Is that pre built?

 

[Movement]

I never had a motherboard with a green light. It doesn't do shit when I hit power.

Do you have pics?

 

[Saren is Bad]

I never had a motherboard with a green light. It doesn't do shit when I hit power.

Damn, may be toasted then. Then again, it may just not have power. You said both ATX cords are plugged in and the PSU is plugged in, though.

@Coldsnap - Can you explain what makes you think that? The 26mb spike?

 

[j-wood]

@j-wood That looks stupid expensive. Is that pre built?

No. All parts ordered from newegg. Windows 7 was 189, and my mouse and keyboard was another 100, so far actual parts, it was right around 1k or a little under

 

[cackhyena]

189? Isn't that a lil expensive?

 

[Movement]

You can get the OEM edition for $99.

 

[j-wood]

Newegg specified that the OEM was for resale use only, so I assumed it had something weird about the CD Key...that blows

 

[Gvaz]

Newegg specified that the OEM was for resale use only, so I assumed it had something weird about the CD Key...that blows

Newegg is pretty good about customer service, maybe you can argue you accidentally bought the wrong one and they'll give you a refund or store credit for the difference?

 

[Movement]

You sure you don't need a bigger HDD also? 500gb is pretty slim, especially when you can get a 2tb for pretty cheap.

 

[Coldsnap]

@Coldsnap - Can you explain what makes you think that? The 26mb spike?

Yep

 

[j-wood]

You sure you don't need a bigger HDD also? 500gb is pretty slim, especially when you can get a 2tb for pretty cheap.

Yeah 500 will be plenty for me...I only have about 13 gigs of music, maybe a 1 gig of photos...so I'll be good in the storage department.

So no one has said otherwise...I'm assuming that will be a pretty sweet pc? Should be able to run games at really high settings without a problem?

 

[vocab]

Damn, may be toasted then. Then again, it may just not have power. You said both ATX cords are plugged in and the PSU is plugged in, though.

Every time I hit the power button, the PSU makes noise like its drawing power, but nothing is starting

 

[Gvaz]

Yep

is it persistent or is it consistent?

 

[Coldsnap]

is it persistent or is it consistent?

constant from what it looks like, unless im seeing it wrong

 

[RumblingRosco]

I don't know if it's bm to ask again but could someone check my build, just trying to see if i7 would be worth or not.

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=28832892&postcount=2178

Many people here will suggest you should not purchase the LED monitor (mostly because of picture quality not being as good as LCD) and stick to the classic LCD. I like LED personally, though.

Is your main purpose for this PC going to be gaming? If so, switch to an i5 2500k. The i7 only really adds hyperthreading, which has very, very limited use in only a few games. Save the ~$100 and put it towards 8GB of RAM, a better case, or a better/modular PSU (although your RAM, case, and PSU are just fine as is, so you could also just pocket that extra $100). You might want to also consider an aftermarket CPU cooler such as the oft-suggested Coolermaster Hyper 212+.

 

[ColonialRaptor]

Anyone else here own a Corsair AX850 PSU?

I bought one yesterday and it's making an absolute racket with Capacitor whine... that can't be normal right?

It's horrible... sounds like a cicada in my case

I'm going to have to return it, but unfortunately I bought the last one the store had in stock and there won't be any more until the 5th of July.

Thankfully I've been able to figure out a way to fix it temporarily by running Prime 95 on 1 Thread with the lowest settings possible.

 

[Saren is Bad]

constant from what it looks like, unless im seeing it wrong

Well the current heading just means from boot to present so 26 mb isn't a lot. The spike is definitely weird. I don't know if when you say constant, you think it's constanting pushing data somewhere because it's not, in fact it's only kbs worth which is essentially nothing.

To the dude with mobo issues - your motherboard should flash red lights when you hit the power then display a constant green light when it POSTs. If that's not happening then your board may be fucked.

 

[vocab]

Anyone else here own a Corsair AX850 PSU?

I bought one yesterday and it's making an absolute racket with Capacitor whine... that can't be normal right?

It's horrible... sounds like a cicada in my case

I'm going to have to return it, but unfortunately I bought the last one the store had in stock and there won't be any more until the 5th of July.

Thankfully I've been able to figure out a way to fix it temporarily by running Prime 95 on 1 Thread with the lowest settings possible.

If it's really loud return it. Sadly it's very hard to get a PSU without some kind of whine.

 

[Movement]

Yeah 500 will be plenty for me...I only have about 13 gigs of music, maybe a 1 gig of photos...so I'll be good in the storage department.

So no one has said otherwise...I'm assuming that will be a pretty sweet pc? Should be able to run games at really high settings without a problem?

Yeah, it's a good setup, but like Soka said you probably wont need the i7. You could use the extra money to get a better GPU (GTX 570, 6950) or a bigger PSU, more RAM, etc.

 

[Gvaz]

Who has that few images and songs?

I have perpetually like 10gb of pictures and 300gb+ of songs :S

 

[ColonialRaptor]

If it's really loud return it. Sadly it's very hard to get a PSU without some kind of whine.

It is really loud... Insanity causing loud...

No way is it normal to be that loud, I can't accept that - especially when it's advertised to be silent.

With my solution of having Prime running I can still hear some noise from it - this is normal noise, noise like from my old Corsair HX620W, light electrical noise that you would expect... there's always noise yep... but not like this.

The only thing I'm scared of is if the new one comes and has the same noise... that... that will be... Bad... I'll have to take up folding again I guess heh

 

[Movement]

Just return it for a different one. If the new one does it again then return it and get a different brand. It must be your specific PSU though, because usually corsair's are very quiet.

 

[ghst]

I'm about to order my new PC! I sold my gaming desktop last year, and now is the time to get it back. Here is what I have picked out...can I get some opinions on this machine? Total cost (with a logtitech G9x, MS sidewinder x4 keyboard, and windows 7 home) was $1260.00

Case - Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Black Steel ATX Full Tower Unbeatable Gaming Case
Model #:Twelve Hundred V3
Item #:N82E16811129100

Motherboard - ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Model #67 EXTREME4 (B3)
Item #:N82E16813157229

Video Card - EVGA 01G-P3-1372-TR GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) Superclocked 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video ...
Model #:01G-P3-1372-TR
Item #:N82E16814130571

PSU - Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Model #:BP550 Plus
Item #:N82E16817371016

CPU - Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K
Model #:BX80623I72600K
Item #:N82E16819115070

RAM - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM
Model #:F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM
Item #:N82E16820231275

HDD - Western Digital Caviar Black WD5002AALX 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Model #:WD5002AALX
Item #:N82E16822136795

bump the 2600k down to a 2500k and use the change to turn that 460 into a 560ti/6950, maybe double your ram too so you don't have to worry about being responsible with your tabs.

 

[bill0527]

Newegg specified that the OEM was for resale use only, so I assumed it had something weird about the CD Key...that blows

You can also install Win 7 from an upgrade disc and do a very simple registry hack to activate it.

 

[teh_pwn]

bump the 2600k down to a 2500k and use the change to turn that 460 into a 560ti/6950, maybe double your ram too so you don't have to worry about being responsible with your tabs.

And switch to 1600 MHz ram, get a heatsink, and OC to 4.2 GHz.

Btw, the i7 also has 2 M more L3 cache. May not be used by gaming, but makes a big difference with some apps.

 

[j-wood]

I think I'm going to keep the i7 because of that bigger cache. Anyone have any experience with that RAM? It had 5 starts on newegg, but I'm curious how well it will perform

 

[teh_pwn]

I think I'm going to keep the i7 because of that bigger cache. Anyone have any experience with that RAM? It had 5 starts on newegg, but I'm curious how well it will perform

If you're not going to OC (which is easy and safe with the correct BIOS settings and the heatsink in the op), then bump to 8 GB with the same RAM you listed.

If you are going to OC, either of these will work (I've used each with ASUS P67):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233144

While most motherboards allow you to set the RAM speed independent of the OC multiplier, I've heard of better results with faster RAM as you OC higher.

With some apps and games, windows 7 will cache more RAM into standby and perform faster if you bump to 8 GB. Unless you're doing development there's not much reason to go beyond 8 GB today.

 

[Movement]

They're not bad, but you will probably want 1600MHz. Such as these.

 

[subversus]

i5-2500k is a fucking beast.

GTAIV doesn't lag anymore. Crysis doesn't lag on ice levels. I thought it wasn't possible.

are there any boosts to speed on Intel cpus? I'm not sure about overclocking but there is some turbo mode, hyperthreading, I know nothing about these things.

 

[teh_pwn]

i5-2500k is a fucking beast.

GTAIV doesn't lag anymore. Crysis doesn't lag anymore on ice levels. I thought it wasn't possible.

are there any boosts to speed on Intel cpus? I'm not sure about overclocking but there are some turbo mode, hyperthreading, I know nothing about these things.

i5-2500K does not have hyperthreading.

Turbo mode IS overclocking. These CPUs are designed to auto-overclock. When you OC sandy bridge in the motherboard, you are setting the turbo max frequency by adjusting a multiplier against the 100 MHz BClk. The 2500K is by default 37 (3.7 GHz). At idle the CPU runs at 1.55 GHz. At load on 1 core active or if all cores are cool enough it runs at 3.7 GHz. If things are too hot it runs at 3.3 GHz.

So when OCing you need two things:
1. Cooling. Use a proper heatsink and your full load temp should be lower than at stock 3.7 GHz full load.
2. Proper motherboard settings. You'll need to google these. There are forums where people post their settings with step by step pictures. If your cooling is good and you don't do stupid like set the CPU V to 1.6+V, it's hard to damage anything. Worst case you'll have the motherboard post a couple times reporting that OC failed.

With all of that said, your GPU is more likely to be a bottleneck with a 2500K at stock with today's games.

 

[subversus]

With all of that said, your GPU is more likely to be a bottleneck with a 2500K at stock with today's games.

I'm using FRAPS so it matters to me.

 

[AwesomeSauce]

Hey all is a evga gtx 470 worth getting for ~$160?

I'll be upgrading from a gtx 260 and it will be paired up with a Phenom X6 1055t.

Also how much more power does it eat compared to my gtx 260, I only have a 600 watt psu at the moment.

 

[Aegus]

Quick question regarding GPU temps. When I run Just Cause 2 at max everything my GPU fans start spinning like crazy and my GPU temp goes up to around 60 for both of them. Would it be ok to decrease the fan speed and let the GPUs get a bit hotter?

 

[RS4-]

I swear there was a better alternative to Fraps and it wasn't XFire. I'm trying to remember the name.

@j-wood, if you don't need the 2600k, go down to 2500k and use the saved money for a better PSU, ram, GPU. The extra $100 might get you the first two, but not all three if you go to a 560Ti or something.

edit - apparently "playclaw" is a good alternative to fraps. Going to try it myself with BC2

 

[Murkas]

Hi guys, my friend wants a new PC. If he wanted it for high end gaming I would know which parts to get. But he only wants it for watching HD/1080p films and videos and this is where I'm kinda lost. Would I need to go for lower end CPU's, low ram and a low end HD GPU? Would be very grateful if someone could link me recommended parts on ebuyer within £500 for the whole lot. I looked at the capable build in the OP but was wondering if maybe I could go cheaper as it's only being used to play HD videos. If not then I may aswell go with that.

He plans on using his old case and HDD so don't need to replace them.


Thanks in advance.

 

[f0rk]

So I just did my first build and nothing happens when its plugged in. Is there anything I can do to test the power supply / motherboard before I bring it to a local shop

 

[MrBelmontvedere]

Turbo mode IS overclocking. These CPUs are designed to auto-overclock.

I hope this isn't considered nitpicking, but turbo mode isn't overclocking. overclocking is running a component at speeds beyond what it was designed for. since turbo mode is within design specifications, and is wholly intended by the manufacturer, it isn't overclocking.

FYI

 

[Kyaw]

So I just did my first build and nothing happens when its plugged in. Is there anything I can do to test the power supply / motherboard before I bring it to a local shop

Case power button pin to motherboard properly plugged in?

Motherboard shorting out because it's touching the metal panels on the case?

 

[beje]

Somehow stupid question. I'm currently running this build:

Asus P5Q + Core 2 Duo E8400 @ 3.6GHZ (OC) + 4GB DDR2 Kingston HyperX 1066 CL5 + GTS250 512MB GDDR5

And I want to know for how long more or less will I be able to use it for gaming taking into account that...
- I use a 22" 1080p screen (no need for AA as pixel density is high)
- I don't mind gaming at "Mid" settings as long as the game is playable and has a nice framerate
- I don't care about Crysis and such (IMO) hollow showcases that need alien hardware to work.

I just want to know because I really want to think in advance how much time do I have before a full upgrade becomes a necessity as I will need to save some money for it.

Oh, and another question, if the answer to the previous question is less than a couple of years, would it be a good idea to upgrade just the graphics card to something in the 200€ range in something like a year so I can wait longer before upgrading the rest and then keep the graphics card? Or the rest of the system I have right now is such a bottleneck for a newer graphics card it wouldn't be wise?

 

[Azure Phoenix]

I'm looking at building a new PC in about a month or so, but I've got a few rather stupid questions to ask before doing so.

1: Is now the right time to build a new PC? I keep hearing about Bulldozer or whatever so I don't want to spend a fortune now if some vastly improved parts are coming out soon.

2: Noise is going to be a big issue, so I just want to know roughly how loud a PC should be without using one of these special silent cases. My current 5 year old PC sounds as loud as a launch Xbox 360 with a disc spinning and fans on full blast, but I'm not sure if that is normal.

3: Has that Sandybridge motherboard issue from a few months ago been rectified yet?

 

[Q8D3vil]

got g35 headset.
cheap and amazing for gaming, build quality and gaming sound is way better than my old sennheiser hd555 with a sound card.