"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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Smokey said:
Yes Im using two fans on it (came with the setup). Plan to get better fans later on.Noise isn't bad at all. It's noticeable when you're not doing anything and when playing a game you won't hear it at all.

That being said you will get similar temps if you go with something like a 212+.
I just really like the look of the cooler. I have a side panel as well and didn't want to see a mammoth fan sticking out of the corner of my eye :p
Click to expand...

My idle temps are usually around 44 and at 4.2 Ghz It's running about 62 degrees, all with a 212+. Do you think I applied the thermal paste incorrectly? I wonder why I'm running so high.

My cables are a mess at the moment, and I ordered more case fans, to see if that's the problem.
 
Eltacoman said:
My idle temps are usually around 44 and at 4.2 Ghz It's running about 62 degrees, all with a 212+. Do you think I applied the thermal paste incorrectly? I wonder why I'm running so high.

My cables are a mess at the moment, and I ordered more case fans, to see if that's the problem.
Click to expand...
Don't worry about idle temps. What are your load temps while running Prime95 with small fft? And, at what voltage?
 
Zimbardo said:
isn't a 2500k supposed to be around 1.3 volt when overclocking?

i dont own one, but i thought i read that.
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Hm, I haven't heard of it being that low. I once tried 2.20 @ 4.5Ghz and got BSOD.
 
Eltacoman said:
Hm, I haven't heard of it being that low. I once tried 2.20 @ 4.5Ghz and got BSOD.
Click to expand...

here's an overclocking guide.

http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/39184-p67-sandy-bridge-overclocking-guide-beginners.html

that 1.9 volts looks to be way too high for starters.


i'd google around for more information. someone here should have some better information than i can give, too.


edit: here's another guide for the 2500K.

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpus/2011/01/07/how-to-overclock-the-intel-core-i5-2500k/1
 
HooYaH said:
Please tell me that is a mini MB?? If not, wow that they make heatsinks that huge.
Click to expand...

Why yes, yes they do.

Hazaro said:
Normally you want the hot air flowing left (to the exhaust at the back of the case).
I may be wrong, but it looks like the fans are going to blow to the front..
Click to expand...

Ignore how the fans are lol, I think one is backwards. I slapped them on there so I could take a pic and put them back in the box.

I'm gonna have the fans in a pull/pull config since if I had a fan on the front it'd hang too low for the majority of RAM including the pair I bought. From the folks at overclock.net it provides pretty much the same performance.
 
Eltacoman said:
Hm, I haven't heard of it being that low. I once tried 2.20 @ 4.5Ghz and got BSOD.
Click to expand...

Are you sure it's at 1.95 volts? That is outrageously high. Max safe vcore is supposedly around 1.52, but that's higher than most people go. People can hit 4.5+ at 1.36 or so
 
Eltacoman said:
Hm, I haven't heard of it being that low. I once tried 2.20 @ 4.5Ghz and got BSOD.
Click to expand...
Wow. That's way too high for Sandy bridge CPU. At your speed, 1.30V or below. And, I don't recommend going over 1.35V for 24/7 overclock. Either you are wrong about your voltages or you better hope you didn't damage the CPU with 1.95V.
 
Eltacoman said:
~63 degrees, 1.950 volts.
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I wouldn't think it would even let you go up that high or function without some PLL stuff.
Lock it at 1.3V and hope you didn't damage your chip if you did run it at that.

Also if that is your RAM voltage by mistake lock that at 1.5V or 1.65V depending what your RAM is rated at.
 
I need help GAF.

Which mobo do I need that'll output 5.1 sound in games?

I know not many do but I recall someone saying that the Gigabyte P67 UD4's do? Is this right?

If not, what should I be looking at?
 
LabouredSubterfuge said:
I need help GAF.

Which mobo do I need that'll output 5.1 sound in games?

I know not many do but I recall someone saying that the Gigabyte P67 UD4's do? Is this right?

If not, what should I be looking at?
Click to expand...

On Newegg, under "details" (and then "Onboard Audio") it lists the number of channels a board can output. This P67 UD4 board (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128478&Tpk=P67 UD4) lists that it outputs 8 channels (I'm guessing 7 and a subwoofer? Either way, it will do 5 channels).

For what its worth, most modern motherboards will do 5.1. My jank old HP computer from 2006-2007ish had integrated 5.1.

Edit: If you're getting a new video card, it can probably pass the audio along to your receiver, saving you from having to run an optical cable (assuming that you have a receiver, and not one of those analog 5.1 setups from Logitech or something)
 
toasty_T said:
Is that stress tested or general loads?

63C is pretty decent.
Click to expand...

It's using the Prime stress test, but I was reading on a lot of guides that I shouldn't really be going above 55 degrees at 4.5Ghz, and this is at 4.1
 
Ok my friend needs a new PC.

Your Current Specs: Needs a new CPU so that also means a new motherboard and RAM is required. Only has a GT 240.
Budget: Price Range + Country
Main Use: Gaming, Video Editing, Graphics, Special Effects (Video), Indie Game Development
Monitor Resolution: Has a 1280x1024 monitor. Could use an upgrade.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: World of Warcraft, Minecraft, probably other nice new games would be good now that she'll actually be able to play them
Are reusing any parts?: Honestly looking at her old parts makes me think it'll be better to put the old PC aside for usage by someone else or as a second computer and do this from scratch. OS, Mouse, Keyboard not required though.
When will you build?: ASAP
Will you be overclocking?: No
 
Eltacoman said:
It's using the Prime stress test, but I was reading on a lot of guides that I shouldn't really be going above 55 degrees at 4.5Ghz, and this is at 4.1
Click to expand...
Don't worry too much about that. If you had the intel cooler on and ran the CPU at stock clocks it'd probably be hotter than it is now.

One thing that you can do is tidy up your cables to ensure better airflow into your heatsinks intake. That might get you a few degrees depending on how cluttered it is now.
 
Eltacoman said:
It's using the Prime stress test, but I was reading on a lot of guides that I shouldn't really be going above 55 degrees at 4.5Ghz, and this is at 4.1
Click to expand...
Don't know what guide you are reading, but at 4.5GHz @ ~1.30V, 65-70C is normal using a 212+. Under 60C would require those insanely huge air or water coolers. And, you shouldn't worry if it's under 80C. People shouldn't really be worrying about idle and load temps if you are within safe / good range.

Other factors are room temp and case airflow. Where are you regarding that? You might be slightly high given only 4.1GHz @ low 1.19V.
 
LordCanti said:
On Newegg, under "details" (and then "Onboard Audio") it lists the number of channels a board can output. This P67 UD4 board (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128478&Tpk=P67 UD4) lists that it outputs 8 channels (I'm guessing 7 and a subwoofer? Either way, it will do 5 channels).

For what its worth, most modern motherboards will do 5.1. My jank old HP computer from 2006-2007ish had integrated 5.1.

Edit: If you're getting a new video card, it can probably pass the audio along to your receiver, saving you from having to run an optical cable (assuming that you have a receiver, and not one of those analog 5.1 setups from Logitech or something)
Click to expand...

I get that. It's just a lot of mobos output 8 channels of audio, but many of them don't have the particular audio codec license required to output that many channels in games, which is why many people buy cheap soundcards for their 5.1 set ups, because they actually have that codec.
 
LabouredSubterfuge said:
I get that. It's just a lot of mobos output 8 channels of audio, but many of them don't have the particular audio codec license required to output that many channels in games, which is why many people buy cheap soundcards for their 5.1 set ups, because they actually have that codec.
Click to expand...

Aah, I see what you mean now. Googling around, I was able to find out that the board supports Dolby Digital Live (the p67A-UD4 does anyway). Further googling seems to suggest that Dolby Digital Live support implies 5.1 support in games. Whether that is in all games, or some games, is proving difficult for me to discern. Sorry that I can't provide a definitive answer.

Sources:
http://www.dolby.com/consumer/understand/playback/dolby-digital-live.html
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3648#ov

Edit: The first reviewer here (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PGAMG2/?tag=neogaf0e-20) goes into the 5.1 support of this board. He claims it supports 5.1 audio in gaming.
 
Alright, I'm finally ready to start putting together a new PC and this will be the first time I've ever built one. I've got roughly around £1000 to spend but that must include a monitor as well, so I need to keep some aside for that. I've already chosen the case and CPU, but I need help with everything else.

Budget - £1000
Case - Silverstone FT03 (sizes and specs)
CPU - i5 2500k

The two most important things are that it's quiet and can run Skyrim at maximum, but I realise that will be a bit more awkward due to the design of the case. As I'm in the UK that also rules out Newegg and it's crazy bargains.
 
LordCanti said:
Aah, I see what you mean now. Googling around, I was able to find out that the board supports Dolby Digital Live (the p67A-UD4 does anyway). Further googling seems to suggest that Dolby Digital Live support implies 5.1 support in games. Whether that is in all games, or some games, is proving difficult for me to discern. Sorry that I can't provide a definitive answer.

Sources:
http://www.dolby.com/consumer/understand/playback/dolby-digital-live.html
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3648#ov

Edit: The first reviewer here (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PGAMG2/?tag=neogaf0e-20) goes into the 5.1 support of this board. He claims it supports 5.1 audio in gaming.
Click to expand...

Ah, awesome work! Thank you. That certainly helps. Cheers!
 
Azure Phoenix said:
Alright, I'm finally ready to start putting together a new PC and this will be the first time I've ever built one. I've got roughly around £1000 to spend but that must include a monitor as well, so I need to keep some aside for that. I've already chosen the case and CPU, but I need help with everything else.

Budget - £1000
Case - Silverstone FT03 (sizes and specs)
CPU - i5 2500k

The two most important things are that it's quiet and can run Skyrim at maximum, but I realise that will be a bit more awkward due to the design of the case. As I'm in the UK that also rules out Newegg and it's crazy bargains.
Click to expand...


I'm in exactly the same situation as you, here is a link to my post from a page back...
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=29039763&postcount=3256

That is the build I have come up with, but it could probably use some tweaking. Any reason you chose that case?
 
Can anyone recommend a build/starter pc that may run rift on moderate settings, I'm thinking my laptop and putting it towards the cost of a new one looking to spend between 600-800 give or take :-)
 
Gamble said:
Can anyone recommend a build/starter pc that may run rift on moderate settings, I'm thinking my laptop and putting it towards the cost of a new one looking to spend between 600-800 give or take :-)
Click to expand...

The $600 build in the OP will play Rift very nicely.
 
Eltacoman said:
It's using the Prime stress test, but I was reading on a lot of guides that I shouldn't really be going above 55 degrees at 4.5Ghz, and this is at 4.1
Click to expand...

Your idle temps of 44 seem a bit high. I'm around 28-33 and I hit lower 70s on my I7 2600k @ 4.5ghz in prime. While I thought that was a little high reading other forums I hear that the I7s run hot. I've reseated my h70 twice and still get same temps *shrugs*.

When gaming though I'm around the 55c range and that's all I really care about.
 
Gamble said:
#palmtoface never even thought to look at the OP builds......bless you kind sir
Click to expand...

Just to tweak that build a little bit to your $800 budget, I'd suggest bumping up the GPU to a GTX 560 Ti or 6950 2GB, and bumping the i3 2100 to an i5 2400 (which gets you a quad core). As for the case, it's up to you, but the HAF 912 gets a hearty recommendation from me, as it has nice cooling and is very easy to work with, though there are other options that might suit your tastes better.

edit: oh, those builds don't come with Windows 7...I forgot. Might need to drop something from my recommendations if you want to keep it at $800, then, unless you can get a cheap student copy of Windows 7. If you can manage to keep the GTX 560 or 6950, as well as the 2400, that would be great. Otherwise, you can just worry about upgrading it later on if you like.
 
What is the purpose of the little tabs found on some I/O shields?

Where should they be when mounting the motherboard? How should they be positioned?
 
Smokey said:
Your idle temps of 44 seem a bit high. I'm around 28-33 and I hit lower 70s on my I7 2600k @ 4.5ghz in prime. While I thought that was a little high reading other forums I hear that the I7s run hot. I've reseated my h70 twice and still get same temps *shrugs*.

When gaming though I'm around the 55c range and that's all I really care about.
Click to expand...

It DOES seem like guides you read online from other forums say that you shouldnt go past 55C load temps to be safe when overclocking 2600k..
 
knitoe said:
Don't know what guide you are reading, but at 4.5GHz @ ~1.30V, 65-70C is normal using a 212+. Under 60C would require those insanely huge air or water coolers. And, you shouldn't worry if it's under 80C. People shouldn't really be worrying about idle and load temps if you are within safe / good range.

Other factors are room temp and case airflow. Where are you regarding that? You might be slightly high given only 4.1GHz @ low 1.19V.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I figure the temps I'm at now should be at 4.5GHz, not 4.1, I'm going to tidy up cables and add my case fans and see if that helps. If not, I'm going to reapply the 212+.

Smokey said:
Your idle temps of 44 seem a bit high. I'm around 28-33 and I hit lower 70s on my I7 2600k @ 4.5ghz in prime. While I thought that was a little high reading other forums I hear that the I7s run hot. I've reseated my h70 twice and still get same temps *shrugs*.

When gaming though I'm around the 55c range and that's all I really care about.
Click to expand...

Oh, is gaming generally less intense than the stress test? I figured they were about even, I'm going to test it while gaming and see what I get.
 
TheExodu5 said:
Just to tweak that build a little bit to your $800 budget, I'd suggest bumping up the GPU to a GTX 560 Ti or 6950 2GB, and bumping the i3 2100 to an i5 2400 (which gets you a quad core). As for the case, it's up to you, but the HAF 912 gets a hearty recommendation from me, as it has nice cooling and is very easy to work with, though there are other options that might suit your tastes better.

edit: oh, those builds don't come with Windows 7...I forgot. Might need to drop something from my recommendations if you want to keep it at $800, then, unless you can get a cheap student copy of Windows 7. If you can manage to keep the GTX 560 or 6950, as well as the 2400, that would be great. Otherwise, you can just worry about upgrading it later on if you like.
Click to expand...


You are a damnned blessing I'm looking into all of this now I can probably get 7 through my school reasonably priced if not no bigge
 
I was wondering if I would benefit enough from a new router to justify its purchase? I see a e3000 refurb for $65.

Right now I live in a studio apartment. I have a Linksys WRT54G connected to a DOCSIS 3.0 Modem. The router has DD-WRT installed on it. My computer is hooked up to my Router with a LAN Cable. I have a laptop that I use as well as that has wireless N. I have PS3 which is wireless but can be wired, a 360 which I don't have wired in right now but would be wired (I also have the wireless adapter for if needed), as well as my cell phone which occasionally connected to my wireless. I plan on adding a NAS as well as a HTPC which I would both have most likely wired to the router. Would I see any speed increase in my wired connections, namely my PC?
 
So I think my video card is taking a shit. I need to upgrade from a HIS H487FN1GP Radeon HD 4870 1GB. My specs are below. Recommend me a card that is $200-$300 and possibly BF3 proof


Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3250410AS 250GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
GIGABYTE GA-G31M-ES2L LGA 775 Intel G31 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
Intel Core 2 Quad Q8400 Yorkfield 2.66GHz 4MB L2 Cache LGA 775 95W Quad-Core Processor BX80580Q8400
G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-8500CL5D-4GBPK
CORSAIR Enthusiast Series CMPSU-550VX 550W ATX12V V2.2 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply
MASSCOOL 8WA741 92mm Ball CPU Cooler
SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 HD204UI 2TB 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
RAIDMAX SMILODON ATX-612WBP Black 1.0mm SECC Steel ATX Mid Tower Foldout MB Computer Case With 500W Power Supply
 
Smokey said:
Your idle temps of 44 seem a bit high. I'm around 28-33 and I hit lower 70s on my I7 2600k @ 4.5ghz in prime. While I thought that was a little high reading other forums I hear that the I7s run hot. I've reseated my h70 twice and still get same temps *shrugs*.

When gaming though I'm around the 55c range and that's all I really care about.
Click to expand...
I think room temps affect idle temps quite a bit, which may be the reason he's hitting 44. Over here at my place (philippines) with no airconditioning unit on, it can get freakishly hot and it shows in my rig's temps as well. My 2500k @ 4.5 for example easily reaches 70+/near 80 on load, especially on a really sunny day and that's with a v6gt
 
So while watching a youtube clip yesterday i think i somehow fried my gpu, its a sapphire 4850, and i have an led d1601 critical temp protection enabled light on, on the video card board. I cant figure out how to get it to boot normally, the computer will turn on but wont put out a signal to the monitor. i tried placing it in a different slot and resetting the bios but nothing. so i guess its time to buy a new card?
 
Trojita said:
I was wondering if I would benefit enough from a new router to justify its purchase? I see a e3000 refurb for $65.

Right now I live in a studio apartment. I have a Linksys WRT54G connected to a DOCSIS 3.0 Modem. The router has DD-WRT installed on it. My computer is hooked up to my Router with a LAN Cable. I have a laptop that I use as well as that has wireless N. I have PS3 which is wireless but can be wired, a 360 which I don't have wired in right now but would be wired (I also have the wireless adapter for if needed), as well as my cell phone which occasionally connected to my wireless. I plan on adding a NAS as well as a HTPC which I would both have most likely wired to the router. Would I see any speed increase in my wired connections, namely my PC?
Click to expand...
If you get a N router with gigabit ports and you have devices that also has them, your LAN speed would increase ~10X. Your wireless should at least double if the your devices support N. And, your internet speeds should stay about the same unless your current router couldn't handle the max download/upload speeds.
 
goodfella said:
I'm in exactly the same situation as you, here is a link to my post from a page back...
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=29039763&postcount=3256

That is the build I have come up with, but it could probably use some tweaking. Any reason you chose that case?
Click to expand...
I decided to go for the FT03 due to the way my room is going to be set up (the tower will have to sit on the top of the desk), plus I absolutely detest all these massive black towers with vents, grills, LEDs and other junk. It needed to be something small and stylish. Due to the way the FT03 is designed it's the same height as a normal tower but half the depth, yet still can fit full size video cards and keeps everything cool.

Anyway thanks for your list, it's given me a bit of a starting point and taking into account the higher priced monitor and tower I could still afford to go for a higher spec than that.
 
knitoe said:
If you get a N router with gigabit ports and you have devices that also has them, your LAN speed would increase ~10X. Your wireless should at least double if the your devices support N. And, your internet speeds should stay about the same unless your current router couldn't handle the max download/upload speeds.
Click to expand...
I think my cable speed was like 28/15. I think the LAN speeds supposedly of the b/g router I currently have is 54Mbps. Would the actual internet connected to the computer on the LAN be faster because the LAN Speed is faster, or would it not see any difference since 28 is lower than 54 anyways?
 
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