"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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black swordsman said:
Gaf need quick help

Will old CM 600w be able to handle 560 ti

if not any recommendations ?
Post the model. If it's a solid 12V spec it should fine. Check newegg reviews / Jonnyguru / Hardwaresecrets.
I won't be able to reply, but if it has over 28A on the 12V you should be fine.
ShyGuy0504 said:
So this is a good temp? I shouldn't be worried about anything right? Plan to game but only on one monitor obviously.
Yeah 50C idle is quite fine.
 
black swordsman said:
Gaf need quick help

Will old CM 600w be able to handle 560 ti

if not any recommendations ?

Shouldn't be an issue, provided you have the right pins/adapters

EDIT:

Hazaro said:
70C idle is a touch high. What does it top out at load? Also is your fan profile at something like 20/30/40/50/60% idle?

I've gotta tweak the fan profile and see, default fan settings (no software) has it topping out at like 86c during Crysis with stuff constantly blowing up.
 
vocab said:
got my replacement motherboard, doesn't turn the fuck on. Fuck ASrock.

Are you trying to boot it in the case or on a anti static sheet? Try the latter, if you have not yet. After you have it on the sheet, Make sure both ATX connectors are in. Does a green light come on near the bottom when you turn on the PSU?
 
I have a question about properly powering a newer GPU.

Yesterday, I upgraded my graphics card from an 8800GT to a GTX 560 Ti. The new card has two 6-pin power connectors instead of one like the 8800GT. Since my power supply is from 2007, it only has one GPU connector. To make matters worse, the 560 came with an 2 4-pin to 1 6-pin adapter, but I had to use it with in cables from the power supply that already had one or more things connected to them. Will this cause a problem?

Here is a rough sketch:

5916028975_823fb5e8dc_z.jpg


The computer booted up ok, and seems to be working fine.
 
Appleman said:
Power switch connector?
You never know

Tried the Flathead trick. Nothing.

Marco1 said:
Have you plugged in all the PSU connections?

Just 24 pin and 8 pin to see if it starts up.

Eltacoman said:
Are you trying to boot it in the case or on a anti static sheet? Try the latter, if you have not yet. After you have it on the sheet, Make sure both ATX connectors are in. Does a green light come on near the bottom when you turn on the PSU?

It's in the case. It's on all the standoffs.

Eltacoman said:
Does a green light come on near the bottom when you turn on the PSU?


I see no green light any where.

This is the same board, same problem.
 
I thought mine was all the standoffs as well, but it turns out one was barely not all the way screwed in and was grounding it. Can you look at the back side of the case and just make sure they are all sticking out the same amount? And you also have the PWR, Reset, all those little pins in the correct socket? They should be near the Led+ and -
 
Eltacoman said:
I thought mine was all the standoffs as well, but it turns out one was barely not all the way screwed in and was grounding it. Can you look at the back side of the case and just make sure they are all sticking out the same amount? And you also have the PWR, Reset, all those little pins in the correct socket? They should be near the Led+ and -

Alright, I'll try it on the anti static sheet. I'm sure the power connectors are in. I usually had that problem in the past, but the mobo and manual all have indicators that should be correct.
 
Thanks for the help guys! My 560 is on the way.

I plan to get an IPS (most likely a Dell) and a 128gb SSD later this year. (please give me brand suggestions, is intel still king?)

Now onto another question. I currently own a Thermaltake Armor A90. I love the case, but I can't help but wonder if I could get something with better airflow. I would use my armor case as my full-time NAS box down the road.

So on that thought vein, what (presumably) larger cases are recommended on the market. I know about the OP but I like hearing GAFers opinions. I'd be will to spend a little over 100.
 
vocab said:
Alright, I'll try it on the anti static sheet. I'm sure the power connectors are in. I usually had that problem in the past, but the mobo and manual all have indicators that should be correct.

Ok, if it doesn't work on the sheet, then you know for sure it's dead. In that case you'll have to take it out anyway so it shouldn't be a hassle. Just make sure you only have the bare minimums on now.
 
The_Inquisitor said:
Thanks for the help guys! My 560 is on the way.

I plan to get an IPS (most likely a Dell) and a 128gb SSD later this year. (please give me brand suggestions, is intel still king?)

Now onto another question. I currently own a Thermaltake Armor A90. I love the case, but I can't help but wonder if I could get something with better airflow. I would use my armor case as my full-time NAS box down the road.

So on that thought vein, what (presumably) larger cases are recommended on the market. I know about the OP but I like hearing GAFers opinions. I'd be will to spend a little over 100.

I grabbed a Vertex 2 120GB in march and it died on me, they sent me a replacement but I'm pretty underwhelmed by the speeds of it. I won't be buying an OCZ for my next one.

I'm also grabbing a 30" Dell tomorrow, and was wondering what people's experiences with 2560x1600 are. I'm only running a single 1.5GB GTX580, so I'll see where that takes me.
 
So after all the suggestions, here's my current loadout:

HAF X case - $189.99
Either the ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe ($259) or the ASUS Maximus IV Extreme-Z Z68 ($359.99)
MSI N570GTX Twin Frozr II OC GeForce GTX 570 - $354.99
CORSAIR Professional Series HX1050 1050W Modular Power Supply - $229.99
Intel Core i7-2600K - $314.99
Noctua NH-C14 140mm x 2 SSO CPU Cooler - $89.99
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 15000) - $99.99
Either the Corsair Force Series GT 60GB SATA III SSD ($154.99) or the Corsair Force Series GT 120GB SATA III SSD ($254.99)
Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" - $149.99
ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" 5ms HDMI Full 1080P Widescreen LCD Monitor - $179.99
SAMSUNG CD/DVD Burner Black SATA Model SH-222AB - $19.99

Subtotal: $2,044.89 (with all the lower priced options) / $2,244.89 (with all the higher priced options).

Note that the Force GT SSDs are currently at sale prices.
 
Eltacoman said:
Ok, if it doesn't work on the sheet, then you know for sure it's dead. In that case you'll have to take it out anyway so it shouldn't be a hassle. Just make sure you only have the bare minimums on now.


Wow, I really didn't think it wouldn't work but it did. As it was working, I just figured out what the problem was when I took the mobo off. Cooler master labels which standoff you should have for standard and micro, and apparently I had it on a stand off that wasn't coming through any holes. Ughhhhhh biggest rookie mistake ever.

Thanks again. You just saved me from another rma.
 
XiaNaphryz said:
So after all the suggestions, here's my current loadout:

HAF X case - $189.99
Either the ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe ($259) or the ASUS Maximus IV Extreme-Z Z68 ($359.99)
MSI N570GTX Twin Frozr II OC GeForce GTX 570 - $354.99
CORSAIR Professional Series HX1050 1050W Modular Power Supply - $229.99
Intel Core i7-2600K - $314.99
Noctua NH-C14 140mm x 2 SSO CPU Cooler - $89.99
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 15000) - $99.99
Either the Corsair Force Series GT 60GB SATA III SSD ($154.99) or the Corsair Force Series GT 120GB SATA III SSD ($254.99)
Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" - $149.99
ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" 5ms HDMI Full 1080P Widescreen LCD Monitor - $179.99
SAMSUNG CD/DVD Burner Black SATA Model SH-222AB - $19.99

Subtotal: $2,044.89 (with all the lower priced options) / $2,244.89 (with all the higher priced options).

Note that the Force GT SSDs are currently at sale prices.
You sure you want that psu unless you do plan on going SLI. How much of a difference is the AX series or the Seasonic X ones?
 
RS4- said:
You sure you want that psu unless you do plan on going SLI.
I want to leave the option for going SLI down the road, hence the larger PSU. The AX line goes from 850 (would be borderline for me if I went SLI plus OC'd) to 1200 (probably too much, I don't plan on extreme OCing or going triple GPU).
 
vocab said:
Wow, I really didn't think it wouldn't work but it did. As it was working, I just figured out what the problem was when I took the mobo off. Cooler master labels which standoff you should have for standard and micro, and apparently I had it on a stand off that wasn't coming through any holes. Ughhhhhh biggest rookie mistake ever.

Thanks again. You just saved me from another rma.


YaaaaY!!! all is good, now post pictures of your build!
 
XiaNaphryz said:
So after all the suggestions, here's my current loadout:

HAF X case - $189.99
Either the ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe ($259) or the ASUS Maximus IV Extreme-Z Z68 ($359.99)
MSI N570GTX Twin Frozr II OC GeForce GTX 570 - $354.99
CORSAIR Professional Series HX1050 1050W Modular Power Supply - $229.99
Intel Core i7-2600K - $314.99
Noctua NH-C14 140mm x 2 SSO CPU Cooler - $89.99
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 15000) - $99.99
Either the Corsair Force Series GT 60GB SATA III SSD ($154.99) or the Corsair Force Series GT 120GB SATA III SSD ($254.99)
Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" - $149.99
ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" 5ms HDMI Full 1080P Widescreen LCD Monitor - $179.99
SAMSUNG CD/DVD Burner Black SATA Model SH-222AB - $19.99

Subtotal: $2,044.89 (with all the lower priced options) / $2,244.89 (with all the higher priced options).

yikes thats a lot of money. I could probably trim it down a bit with same specs. would you like to see if i can try and build your rig but for a lower price?

also, do you live in california? newegg goes a long way if you're not a CA resident. sadly i'm not one of them :(
 
Newegg just sent me a $50 gift card for my troubles with UPS thieving on my Hard Drive I ordered from them 3 weeks ago and never received.

Not sure what I should do with it since my new build is complete

i5 2500k
Gigabyte Z68 mobo
4 GB G-skill RAM
GTX 560ti

The only thing I could possibly need now is maybe a new PSU, but my 500w Xclio has been doing fine for 4 years and I hate to replace it since its not giving me any trouble.

Or - I could order another 4GB ram kit and I've got a 10% discount newegg code good for another 24 hours, for any RAM purchased. I could effectively add another 4GB for around $35 w/free shipping.
 
tehbible said:
yikes thats a lot of money. I could probably trim it down a bit with same specs. would you like to see if i can try and build your rig but for a lower price?

also, do you live in california? newegg goes a long way if you're not a CA resident. sadly i'm not one of them :(
Yep, I'm in CA and these are all Newegg prices. And I know there's savings out there (i.e. go with a P67 Pro instead of a P67/Z68 Deluxe, go i5 instead of i7, go with lower clock spec'd RAM, go with cheaper CPU cooler, etc). I haven't started to look for bundle deals yet either or shop around to find a better price point, this was just the wishlist loadout.
 
vocab said:
Wow, I really didn't think it wouldn't work but it did. As it was working, I just figured out what the problem was when I took the mobo off. Cooler master labels which standoff you should have for standard and micro, and apparently I had it on a stand off that wasn't coming through any holes. Ughhhhhh biggest rookie mistake ever.

Thanks again. You just saved me from another rma.

No problem, small mistakes happen like that all the time, and people freak out over them. I've found very rarely is a part complete DOA, and you just have to take it step by step to find the problem.
 
Hazaro said:
OP build is great for this. Nab a 2x4GB 1.5V kit and you are good to go.
If you are more concerned about reliability you can get a Seasonic X (Or Corsair AX) series power supply in addition to a more expensive motherboard (more power regulators). They are not big factors, but those are two things you can do.

I'd still suggest a 1TB drive (Samsung or WD Black) just for speed.
Tried my best to find the parts or their equivalents using Komplett.se
Code:
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=619274"]Intel Core i5 2500K[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=623449"]Corsair TX V2 750W PSU[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=638785"]MSI GeForce GTX 570 1280MB PhysX[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=597381"]Corsair Dominator DHX DDR3 1600MHz 8GB[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=620189"]Western Digital Caviar® Blue 500GB[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/kl.aspx?bn=10034&mfr=&filter=A03240.K105965."]DVD - unsure[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/kl.aspx?bn=10464"]Cooling Fan - unsure[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=626379"]ASUS P8P67 EVO B3, Socket-1155[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/kc.aspx?bn=10149"]And then I'll need a chassi, too[/URL]
Anyways, this sorta broke my budget weighing in at approximately 10000 SEK.
If I switch the graphics card for an ASUS GeForce GTX 560Ti 1GB PhysX CUDA (random recommended PCI-express card) it brings it down to just under 9000 SEK. Would this card still be a good choice?

I think I need some more help, especially choosing DVD, fan and chassi. I have no idea.
Have to sleep now, will check back tomorrow.
 
Appleman said:
I'm rocking a 600T with the mesh panel in now (no fans mounted on the panel). Stock fans, stock cooler on the GPU and no custom fan profile. My temps can be up to mid eighties (this is on the SC version, not that it matters that much).

With a custom fan profile, it can obviously be lower at the cost of noise (the tiny GPU fans are very whiny), but I guess I need to do some tweaking with that.

Also, with dual monitors (can't downclock) it idles at like 70c, which seems VERY high to me.
Yeah we have identical set ups (mesh with no fans) except I have SLI and I idle around 39 each so I'd definately look at fan speeds and such.
 
Lasthope106 said:
5916028975_823fb5e8dc_z.jpg


The computer booted up ok, and seems to be working fine.

You should be fine. Post the PSU specs if you can.

The fans and front panel won't draw shit for power. And the CD/DVD drives won't either unless you've got a disc spinning in them at the time. And older games that require a disc in the drive to play usually only check the disc periodically.

The only thing I would worry about is if your PSU just doesn't put out enough current on the +12V rail, or if you have multiple +12V rails (you might have to try to find out which lead is for which rail, and balance devices).

There's typically a label on the side of the PSU with it's specs. Post a pic of that if you can.
 
sinxtanx said:
Tried my best to find the parts or their equivalents using Komplett.se
Code:
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=619274"]Intel Core i5 2500K[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=623449"]Corsair TX V2 750W PSU[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=638785"]MSI GeForce GTX 570 1280MB PhysX[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=597381"]Corsair Dominator DHX DDR3 1600MHz 8GB[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=620189"]Western Digital Caviar® Blue 500GB[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/kl.aspx?bn=10034&mfr=&filter=A03240.K105965."]DVD - unsure[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/kl.aspx?bn=10464"]Cooling Fan - unsure[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=626379"]ASUS P8P67 EVO B3, Socket-1155[/URL]
[URL="http://www.komplett.se/k/kc.aspx?bn=10149"]And then I'll need a chassi, too[/URL]
Anyways, this sorta broke my budget weighing in at approximately 10000 SEK.
If I switch the graphics card for an ASUS GeForce GTX 560Ti 1GB PhysX CUDA (random recommended PCI-express card) it brings it down to just under 9000 SEK. Would this card still be a good choice?

I think I need some more help, especially choosing DVD, fan and chassi. I have no idea.
Have to sleep now, will check back tomorrow.
Did some searching for you on that site while I was waiting for my downloads to finish and came up with this:

Case: Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced
CPU: Intel® Core™ i5-2500K Processor
Mobo: MSI P67A-GD65 B3
Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
DVD: Sony Optiarc DVD±RW Burner, AD-7260S
RAM: Corsair Vengeance™ DDR3 1600MHz 8GB CL9
PSU: Corsair TX V2 750W
HDD: Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB
GPU: XFX Radeon HD 6950 2GB

Total coming out at 8.628. Followed the OP as much as I could. The motherboard is cheap compared to the others while it normally would cost more in the US from what I've seen. It has 8 GB of RAM as you requested. The 750W PSU just costs a little more than the 650W so might aswell go for 750W. Just search for whatever case you like instead of this one, if you insist (The Fractal R3 and HAF 922 are close in price to the current choice). As for the GPU, if you prefer Nvidia then you can go with the GTX560Ti that you linked and save about 350 SEK. Sadly getting a GTX 570 will go over your budget and you can't go much cheaper on the other parts anymore.

Anyway it looks like a solid build and hope this helps you. Also, swedish prices look pretty bad!
 
Anyone want to make me a HTPC build? The case would be preferably nice. I'd like the HTPC to have a built in IR Port. How well does IR integrate with Windows or Linux? I look at MAC OS and it looks like the mac remote is natively supported in it. To save money I could probably use a 4870 I was going to use in my server, but it doesn't support Bitstreaming. Do most people recommend a fan-less graphics card? My budget is around $500.
 
When it comes to price vs. performance, it seems to me that the Core i5 2500k looks like the best deal. Would you guys agree?

Then again, if I'm on a budget, most games seem to be more GPU than CPU intsensive, so it may be worth getting a slightly cheaper CPU and put what I save into a nicer GPU. Hm...
 
Graphic card question. Maybe somebody here can explain it to me.

Playing Crysis 2 with everything set to Ultra, DX11, Hi-res pack, and Vsync off I get an average of 45 fps. When I put Vsync on my frames dip to 25-30 and is pretty unplayable to me. Looking at card usage when Vysnc is on, my card is only running at 60%-70%. With it off it runs at 99%.

I removed the DX11 and Hi res pack and loaded up my save. With everything still at Ultra with Vsync on I'm at the 60-65fps range and card utilization was in the 80%-90%.

Can somebody explain to me why utilization is so low with DX11, Ultra, Hi-Res pack, and Vsync enabled? I was reading that my 120hz monitor may have something to do with this? Dunno, just a little confused.
 
Try forcing vsync with a program like d3doverrider. Sometimes the game will limit the fps if you can't maintain your refresh rate. If your fps is limited, your GPU usage will go down as it's not being utilized to its full potential.
 
XiaNaphryz said:
Yep, I'm in CA and these are all Newegg prices. And I know there's savings out there (i.e. go with a P67 Pro instead of a P67/Z68 Deluxe, go i5 instead of i7, go with lower clock spec'd RAM, go with cheaper CPU cooler, etc). I haven't started to look for bundle deals yet either, this was just the wishlist loadout.

ah i see its your wishlist loadout.

Yeah, I'd definitely hit up MicroCenter if you have one in your area. Frys gives good deals on bundles (they used to at least) but they now price-match, a welcome change.

Mobo $169 (Gigabyte GA-Z68X)
Case $179 (HAF X)
PSU $210 (Seasonic 850-X) PSU Calculator if unsure
RAM $95 (Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3 1866)
CPU $280 (Core i7-2600k at Microcenter)
CPU COOLER $89 (Noctua NH-D14)
GPU $329 (eVGA GTX 570)
DVD-ROM $20 (OEM DVD-ROM Drive)
HDD $149 (Western Digital 2TB 7200 rpm)
SSD $260 (120GB Vertex 3 [Sandforce 3 Controller])
MONITOR $350 (HP ZR24W IPS 24 inch 1920 x 1200 display <---- ballllin)

---------------------------------------------------

$2130 + tax (i kept your wishlist build, but changed out the mobo, psu, monitor)
 
Smokey said:
Graphic card question. Maybe somebody here can explain it to me.

Playing Crysis 2 with everything set to Ultra, DX11, Hi-res pack, and Vsync off I get an average of 45 fps. When I put Vsync on my frames dip to 25-30 and is pretty unplayable to me. Looking at card usage when Vysnc is on, my card is only running at 60%-70%. With it off it runs at 99%.

I removed the DX11 and Hi res pack and loaded up my save. With everything still at Ultra with Vsync on I'm at the 60-65fps range and card utilization was in the 80%-90%.

Can somebody explain to me why utilization is so low with DX11, Ultra, Hi-Res pack, and Vsync enabled? I was reading that my 120hz monitor may have something to do with this? Dunno, just a little confused.

On my 60hz 1080p LCD (a 46" Samsung TV), Crysis 2 forces 24hz mode when I'm in fullscreen mode over HDMI. A quick switch to non-full screen (at the same resolution) greatly improves my framerates. Since it's stuck in 24hz mode, vsync caps things at 24hz, which isn't exactly an ideal way to play. With vsync off, things are better, but not as good as when in non-fullscreen mode

I also found this thread (http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1101796&mpage=1) where a guy had the same problem as you, but it doesn't seem like he found a solution.

As far as I can tell, Crysis 2 is just buggy right now. I'm still looking for a solution.


XiaNaphryz said:
So after all the suggestions, here's my current loadout:

HAF X case - $189.99
Either the ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe ($259) or the ASUS Maximus IV Extreme-Z Z68 ($359.99)
MSI N570GTX Twin Frozr II OC GeForce GTX 570 - $354.99
CORSAIR Professional Series HX1050 1050W Modular Power Supply - $229.99
Intel Core i7-2600K - $314.99
Noctua NH-C14 140mm x 2 SSO CPU Cooler - $89.99
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 15000) - $99.99
Either the Corsair Force Series GT 60GB SATA III SSD ($154.99) or the Corsair Force Series GT 120GB SATA III SSD ($254.99)
Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" - $149.99
ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" 5ms HDMI Full 1080P Widescreen LCD Monitor - $179.99
SAMSUNG CD/DVD Burner Black SATA Model SH-222AB - $19.99

Subtotal: $2,044.89 (with all the lower priced options) / $2,244.89 (with all the higher priced options).

Note that the Force GT SSDs are currently at sale prices.

You've got an expensive Caviar Black as a storage drive, despite your SSD. I've always found 5400rpm more than adequate for storage, and they are a heck of a lot cheaper.

Other than that, there isn't much to say. Your build is well thought out, and while a penny pincher like me would definitely trim the fat (cheaper case, cheaper SSD, etc) I can see where you are coming from.

Have fun putting it together.


Trojita said:
Anyone want to make me a HTPC build? The case would be preferably nice. I'd like the HTPC to have a built in IR Port. How well does IR integrate with Windows or Linux? I look at MAC OS and it looks like the mac remote is natively supported in it. To save money I could probably use a 4870 I was going to use in my server, but it doesn't support Bitstreaming. Do most people recommend a fan-less graphics card? My budget is around $500.

$500 is a bit of a stretch, unless you've got parts left over to use. Do you want it to have Blu-Ray? Nice HTPC cases are $100+ by themselves, without considering any other parts.
 
&Divius said:
Alright PC-GAF. I have no knowledge of PC hardware and basically ask around what I should buy when it's time to upgrade. While I'm not really looking to upgrade my PC in the near future, I would like an opinion.

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: AMD Phenom II X4 3,2 GHz / Club3D HD5770 / RAM: Corsair XMS3 6GB
Amount to spent / location: As little as possible / not in the US
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1200
Games to play: BF3/Crysis2 etc
Are reusing any parts?: Whatever doesn't have to be upgraded
When will you build?: End of the year, maybe.
Will you be overclocking?: Nope?

What part(s) would I need to upgrade in order to play, let's say, Battlefield 3/Crysis 2 on high settings and a solid framerate? Since gaming is just a hobby and I don't have to play on very high / 60 FPS I'm looking to do this as cheap as possible.


I'd say just upgrade the graphics card to get the most out of a single upgrade.

If you're willing to spend ~200$ get a gtx 560ti or AMD equivalent and call it a day.
 
i played crysis 2 today on a high end pc. omfg

anything i can build for around $500 to play it on high?

i need
case
mobo
cpu
gpu
power supply

i have everything else
 
Got my last few pieces now I'm ready to get going.

Have a question though. I plugged in a 2TB drive that I wanted to backup all my current stuff onto while I did a fresh install. Once I booted up windows it said that the drivers were installed but when I went Computer it didn't appear. It still doesn't appear. What's the deal?

edit: seems I have to initialize it first I can either choose MBR or GPT, which should I go with? This drive is going straight into another computer.

nvm got it.
 
Mudkips said:
You should be fine. Post the PSU specs if you can.

The fans and front panel won't draw shit for power. And the CD/DVD drives won't either unless you've got a disc spinning in them at the time. And older games that require a disc in the drive to play usually only check the disc periodically.

The only thing I would worry about is if your PSU just doesn't put out enough current on the +12V rail, or if you have multiple +12V rails (you might have to try to find out which lead is for which rail, and balance devices).

There's typically a label on the side of the PSU with it's specs. Post a pic of that if you can.

Here is what it looks like:

17-153-028-06.jpg
 
LordCanti said:
$500 is a bit of a stretch, unless you've got parts left over to use. Do you want it to have Blu-Ray? Nice HTPC cases are $100+ by themselves, without considering any other parts.

Crap, well like I said I do have a 4870 left over. The Blu-ray drive isn't necessary, since if I did get one it would be for my main pc to rip my blu-ray.

So it would be

Processor
Motherboard
Memory
Case

Wireless keyboard and mouse I'd probably count separate, but I will have to pick them up.

that would be needed I guess.

I was looking at the ASRock machines, but I see that they use laptop parts right?
 
Trojita said:
Crap, well like I said I do have a 4870 left over. The Blu-ray drive isn't necessary, since if I did get one it would be for my main pc to rip my blu-ray.

So it would be

Processor
Motherboard
Memory
Case

Wireless keyboard and mouse I'd probably count separate, but I will have to pick them up.

that would be needed I guess.

I was looking at the ASRock machines, but I see that they use laptop parts right?

I came up with this. The case is expensive, but it was among the few models I saw with IR built in. The memory also has a code, that needs to be entered for $10 off. If you don't need blu-ray, that can obviously change as well. I left off the GPU because you said you have one, but I'd look into whether or not the built in intel graphics could handle BR decoding (I'm not sure). In any case, I'm sure they can handle DVD if you aren't going for blu-ray, or you aren't watching 1080p movies from other uhh...sources.

Edit: I forgot to add the PSU to cart. Since you don't want blu-ray, just subtract that cost, and add in maybe 40-50 for a PSU.

Double Edit: If you are buying a wireless mouse and keyboard, why did you need IR functionality? O_O

Here is an updated build, based on the idea that IR isn't wholly necessary (exchange this case for the previous Antec one, if you are sure you need it. Apparently IR on the PC is buggy as hell though), because you'll have a wireless keyboard/mouse. I also added a wireless HTPC mouse/keyboard hybrid device, that seems like it would work well for your purposes. There is a little money left over for a new video card, if you decide that the integrated graphics (or that 4870) aren't cutting it.

You didn't mention needing an HDD, but if you do, there are plenty of options at all different capacities and prices. I wouldn't know how much space you'd need, so I didn't add one.

You'll also need to budget for an OS, unless you are re-using an old one. (This is how the $500 price becomes a stretch). Usually you can call Microsoft and get them to allow your new computer (it's an automated process, if you have previous Windows install discs) but if you don't have those discs, you'll have to buy them (or use other.. means. Wink, nudge, etc). I got a license for like $30 through my uni, but I don't remember the URL.



(original build I had before the edits is here)
 
LordCanti said:
On my 60hz 1080p LCD (a 46" Samsung TV), Crysis 2 forces 24hz mode when I'm in fullscreen mode over HDMI. A quick switch to non-full screen (at the same resolution) greatly improves my framerates. Since it's stuck in 24hz mode, vsync caps things at 24hz, which isn't exactly an ideal way to play. With vsync off, things are better, but not as good as when in non-fullscreen mode

I also found this thread (http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1101796&mpage=1) where a guy had the same problem as you, but it doesn't seem like he found a solution.

As far as I can tell, Crysis 2 is just buggy right now. I'm still looking for a solution.


Thanks for the input

Sucks :/
 
tehbible said:
ah i see its your wishlist loadout.

Yeah, I'd definitely hit up MicroCenter if you have one in your area. Frys gives good deals on bundles (they used to at least) but they now price-match, a welcome change.

Mobo $169 (Gigabyte GA-Z68X)
Case $179 (HAF X)
PSU $210 (Seasonic 850-X) PSU Calculator if unsure
RAM $95 (Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3 1866)
CPU $280 (Core i7-2600k at Microcenter)
CPU COOLER $89 (Noctua NH-D14)
GPU $329 (eVGA GTX 570)
DVD-ROM $20 (OEM DVD-ROM Drive)
HDD $149 (Western Digital 2TB 7200 rpm)
SSD $260 (120GB Vertex 3 [Sandforce 3 Controller])
MONITOR $350 (HP ZR24W IPS 24 inch 1920 x 1200 display <---- ballllin)

---------------------------------------------------

$2130 + tax (i kept your wishlist build, but changed out the mobo, psu, monitor)
Thanks for the suggestions. Budget isn't too much of an issue for me, but I will keep an eye out for deals.
 
DR3AM said:
i played crysis 2 today on a high end pc. omfg

anything i can build for around $500 to play it on high?

i need
case
mobo
cpu
gpu
power supply

i have everything else
You would need to spend more than that to play on high.
 
Appleman said:
I grabbed a Vertex 2 120GB in march and it died on me, they sent me a replacement but I'm pretty underwhelmed by the speeds of it. I won't be buying an OCZ for my next one.

I'm also grabbing a 30" Dell tomorrow, and was wondering what people's experiences with 2560x1600 are. I'm only running a single 1.5GB GTX580, so I'll see where that takes me.
2560x1600 is like two women at the same time every time I turn on the computer. One 580 will do most games but some will require sli.
 
DR3AM said:
i played crysis 2 today on a high end pc. omfg

anything i can build for around $500 to play it on high?

i need
case
mobo
cpu
gpu
power supply

i have everything else


You should look out for rebates, and for individual deals to reach that target price.

If you have a frys around you can save on some stuff.
 
Ok installed the Audigy 2, was a little annoying because it'd install the drivers, tell me to restart, then go through the whole process again and ask if I'd like to uninstall the "old" drivers to install the new ones.

I can't say if there's any noticeable difference vs the onboard realtek HD audio; have yet to try it with any games and quickly fast forward through Saving Private Ryan.

At least it works lol.
 
So...I'll probably be building a PC sometime between August to September (though I could wait a month or two more if significantly better deals or upgraded parts released then) from the cash I earn from my Summer job. Looking at about a $1000-$1200 build that will be able to run at least Skyrim and Diablo 3 on max settings, but before I get into some of the gritty details, I have one quick question:

Would a slightly lower tier graphics card with more memory (e.g. a GTX 560 Ti with 2GB VRAM) be superior to a higher tier card with more memory (GTX 570 with 1.5GB VRAM)?

It doesn't appear that the 570 comes in a configuration with 2GB VRAM and from my understanding VRAM is a significant bottleneck when it comes to applying shaders and making games look really pretty. Neither card appears to come with a 3GB VRAM configuration, though that would probably be overkill (and out of my price range.)
 
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