"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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chewydogg said:
Yesterday the Crucial M4 128gb was on sale..

Today the M4 64gb is $60 off.

How would one go about moving an OEM version of Win7 from an hdd to an ssd. Is it even possible or would I have to buy Windows again?
Acronis Easy Migrate.

*edit* Yep, above.

Le-mo said:
Ok I'm picking up a new mobo and video card. What is the best brand to go with for the 6950 card?
Sapphire has recently edged out ASUS, IMO.
Corky said:
Go with asus direct II cu 6950
Can't go wrong with this either though.
 
My Gigabyte EP45-UD3P motherboard is dead and I need a new one. Which of these seems like the best option?

  1. RMA it and wait for a new one (how long does Gigabyte usually take?)
  2. Sell my 4GB of DDR2 RAM, sell my Q9550 (how much does this go for? I'm not sure why the ones on eBay are $200 unless they have something special about them?), and purchase a Z68 motherboard, DDR3 RAM, and i5 2500k
  3. Purchase a new EP45-UD3P on Craigslist for $100

I'd really like to know what the going price of a q9550 from August 2009 goes for because it seems crazy that it would still be $200...
 
Eiji said:
What can I do with 2 monitors?

I got a free monitor today and want to do a dual setup.
I can't have less than two. Just plug it in, and start using them to your advantage. You'll figure out a good system after a week or two. I generally keep browser open on one, everything else on another. At work I have Outlook on one, and my database on the other.
 
Guys can you recommend me a SSD in 200$ / € range.
I have a Asus P5Q-Deluxe motherboard but plan on building a new rig this spring or summer at the latest. I also have two harddrives as well in my rig right now. I'm not sure if I should go for a performance or for a price/performance solution.

I'm thinking 120G which will be my C: and installing OS on it along with most of the applications, sadly games won't fit there :)

In any case Crucial M4 sounds nice but for a bit more cash I can get Corsair Force GT with much better write speeds also 120GB drive.

I'm just a gamer, so nothing out of the ordinary and won't be using PC for much except music and videos so I'm not sure if I really need those faster writes and so on.

Please enlighten me chaps.

Thank you for your time!
 
Woohoo, order officially cancelled on Amazon. Going to pick up my case after work today from Fry's. My 570 arrives tomorrow in the mail. I have things to do Saturday and Sunday... will build my new PC this Monday - Labor Day! SO EXCITED
 
Firestorm said:
My Gigabyte EP45-UD3P motherboard is dead and I need a new one. Which of these seems like the best option?

  1. RMA it and wait for a new one (how long does Gigabyte usually take?)
  2. Sell my 4GB of DDR2 RAM, sell my Q9550 (how much does this go for? I'm not sure why the ones on eBay are $200 unless they have something special about them?), and purchase a Z68 motherboard, DDR3 RAM, and i5 2500k
  3. Purchase a new EP45-UD3P on Craigslist for $100

I'd really like to know what the going price of a q9550 from August 2009 goes for because it seems crazy that it would still be $200...

Not sure exactly what the price would be but $200 is out of the question given that the 2500k brand new is the same price.
 
Le-mo said:
Ok I'm picking up a new mobo and video card. What is the best brand to go with for the 6950 card?

If they have it in stock get either the sapphire toxic or MSI TFIII. Both have been proven to be great cards and unlockable.
 
Firestorm said:
My Gigabyte EP45-UD3P motherboard is dead and I need a new one. Which of these seems like the best option?

  1. RMA it and wait for a new one (how long does Gigabyte usually take?)
  2. Sell my 4GB of DDR2 RAM, sell my Q9550 (how much does this go for? I'm not sure why the ones on eBay are $200 unless they have something special about them?), and purchase a Z68 motherboard, DDR3 RAM, and i5 2500k
  3. Purchase a new EP45-UD3P on Craigslist for $100

I'd really like to know what the going price of a q9550 from August 2009 goes for because it seems crazy that it would still be $200...

If you can live without the computer for a week or 2 and are still OK with the performance, then #1 is probably the most prudent choice. But I'd definitely go for #2.
 
Guys I need some overclocking advice.

Correct me if I'm wrong but when the voltage slider in nvidia inspector or msi afterburner or w/e goes to a certain point, in my 560 tis case 1.150mv, does that mean that's still within a safety limit for the card?

What I'm trying to get at is :

What's the chance of the gpu dying if I use the highest voltage allowed yet my temps are well beneath anything harmful?
 
So, would it be relatively easy to backup Windows, buy another 64gb Crucial SSD, RAID 0 with my existing one, and restore Windows afterwards? I've never played with this before.
 
Hey, guys. Needing a new PC built for photo editing purposes for my sister.

Budget: About £400-£500 without monitor. Monitor is subject to how much a decent non-TN panel could be. eBuyer is my usual preferred site to use.
Main Use: Photo editing for Photography degree
Monitor Resolution: At least 1080p
When will you build?: Maybe in a week or 2, but can wait if good parts will have price cuts soon
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (This means yes)

Not a single part will be reused, not even DVD-RW (we've already got a W7 OS to use though) and I'd like some consideration for energy usage too as this will not be used in an all inclusive dorm. I've been thinking plenty of RAM, fast disk drive(s), good CPU, and maybe a cheapo nvidia card for CUDA?
 
Alright, I'm not sure if anyone is familiar with my PC drama from a few weeks back, but my PC bit the dust again, and it happened, once again, after it had installed updates to Windows against my will. So, yeah, I'm pretty sure the Windows student disc that Microsoft sent me must be fucked up (since it keeps committing suicide after a few days using System Update). I need to buy a new copy of Windows, but this time I'm NOT springing for the student edition.


Which box should I buy to get Windows 7 64-bit for a clean install? Would this work, or is it just a copy of the service pack?
 
Silverstone GD05 came in the mail. It's... a bit larger than I imagined, even though I knew what the dimensions were. I guess you really just have to go for ITX form factor if you want a real SFF case.

The build quality is top-notch, though--no complaints there. After looking at the case layout myself I decided to give up on getting an aftermarket cooler for the GTX 470 going in there. Without a blower-style cooler it doesn't look like there would be much a point; the hot air would build up in a nasty pocket.

If anyone knows where I can get one of EVGA's GTX 470 backplates and/or the high-flow bracket, please let me know.
 
Parl said:
Hey, guys. Needing a new PC built for photo editing purposes for my sister.

Budget: About £400-£500 without monitor. Monitor is subject to how much a decent non-TN panel could be. eBuyer is my usual preferred site to use.
Main Use: Photo editing for Photography degree
Monitor Resolution: At least 1080p
When will you build?: Maybe in a week or 2, but can wait if good parts will have price cuts soon
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (This means yes)

Not a single part will be reused, not even DVD-RW (we've already got a W7 OS to use though) and I'd like some consideration for energy usage too as this will not be used in an all inclusive dorm. I've been thinking plenty of RAM, fast disk drive(s), good CPU, and maybe a cheapo nvidia card for CUDA?

My recommendation for cheap machine proficient at light media work would be a Llano based build. An APU sounds exactly like the sort of solution you're looking for.
 
cwmartin said:
Here's where I am.

Note: No case (waiting for the Merc to be available) No additional fans, no OS, and I'm thinking about a SSD just for windows. Thoughts?

1K2f0.jpg


EDIT: hahahahaha lets try this again.
Swap those Corsair sticks for lower profile ones, or those G.Skills
Tallshortman said:
My recommendation for cheap machine proficient at light media work would be a Llano based build. An APU sounds exactly like the sort of solution you're looking for.
Too much sacrifice on CPU power imo.

Can toss in a 2400 on the standard build and it would be nice. Maybe cut the GPU down a bit.
 
Corky said:
Guys I need some overclocking advice.

Correct me if I'm wrong but when the voltage slider in nvidia inspector or msi afterburner or w/e goes to a certain point, in my 560 tis case 1.150mv, does that mean that's still within a safety limit for the card?

What I'm trying to get at is :

What's the chance of the gpu dying if I use the highest voltage allowed yet my temps are well beneath anything harmful?

I am not an expert and there are those in this thread that know more about this than me, but I have my 580's OC to 900mhz. What I have learned is the following:

1. Just cause the slider goes all the way for voltage, you should not max it unless there is a real need to do so.

2. You need to determine what speed you want from your OC. Ideally, you raise the core 20-25mhz at a time, run some tests and if all goes well you can increase some more. When you hit artifacts or it crashes, it could use more voltage.

3. Add voltage as only needed to achieve what you want from your OC. If your goal lets say is 900mhz, research your card to see what others are achieving on air cooling, which I assume is what you are using to cool the card.

4. Test, test and monitor your temps are full load to ensure that you are not going to cook the card.

Hope this helps.
 
Yoritomo said:
Absolutely. just 2 monitors though, not 3. One through HDMI and the other through dvi, or both through DVI, or however you want.
awesome, thanks. I think I have a dvi cable lying around too.
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
How are you guys getting Unigine to provide you your results? I downloaded it and it just loops itself never showing results.
Once it starts, click on "Benchmarks" at the top. Afterward, you can save the results and view the file for info.

Here's mine:
heaveniag.jpg
 
Are any of these Crucial M4 sales happening at places that ship internationally? These posts are such a tease. 64/128GB are ~$160/295 US here.
 
Parl said:
Hey, guys. Needing a new PC built for photo editing purposes for my sister.

Budget: About £400-£500 without monitor. Monitor is subject to how much a decent non-TN panel could be. eBuyer is my usual preferred site to use.
Main Use: Photo editing for Photography degree
Monitor Resolution: At least 1080p
When will you build?: Maybe in a week or 2, but can wait if good parts will have price cuts soon
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (This means yes)

Not a single part will be reused, not even DVD-RW (we've already got a W7 OS to use though) and I'd like some consideration for energy usage too as this will not be used in an all inclusive dorm. I've been thinking plenty of RAM, fast disk drive(s), good CPU, and maybe a cheapo nvidia card for CUDA?
What type of photography software will you be using? Don't skimp on the monitor because you'll definitely need the space. Make sure you get one with 1920x1200 (16:10) - I find 16:9 to be too narrow for a proper work computer. AMD is cheap when it comes to multi-core and the software that supports it whereas Intel is preferred if you're more concerned with energy use.
 
Hawk269 said:
I am not an expert and there are those in this thread that know more about this than me, but I have my 580's OC to 900mhz. What I have learned is the following:

1. Just cause the slider goes all the way for voltage, you should not max it unless there is a real need to do so.

2. You need to determine what speed you want from your OC. Ideally, you raise the core 20-25mhz at a time, run some tests and if all goes well you can increase some more. When you hit artifacts or it crashes, it could use more voltage.

3. Add voltage as only needed to achieve what you want from your OC. If your goal lets say is 900mhz, research your card to see what others are achieving on air cooling, which I assume is what you are using to cool the card.

4. Test, test and monitor your temps are full load to ensure that you are not going to cook the card.

Hope this helps.

Hey man long time no see :3

Oh yeah, I'm well aware that just because the slider goes all the way to the right doesn't mean one should necessarily do so. However, you mention OC goals, my goal is to have a max stable oc with safe temps.

With that said, I've gotten as far as a stable 980 mhz with 1.100v and temps of max 78 C degrees during load. One of my cards fail go to above 980 regardless of voltage setting so I guess that's my max stable OC within comfortable temps. I'm quite happy with 980 because that's a 20% OC compared to stock 560 ti clocks, with a mere 8-10 C increase. I.e the cards are now essentially a pair of 570s now, barring vram discrepancies.

With that said, my original question was more regarded to the safety of day to day use of these settings( well, atleast when it comes to gaming for hours on end, because otherwise the cards just downclock themselves automatically when idle). For example I won't be using these settings if I'm playing a game where I have 60 fps locked with default clocks anyway. But I would like to rest assured that as long as my temps are fine and dandy then my gpus lifespan won't be dramatically cut short just because I've gone from 1.025 to 1.100
 
hello all. i was hoping for some advice (particularly from brits)

i'm wanting a new pre-built PC this year. It will be used mostly to play games (new ones and legacy ones) and a wii/ps2 emulator. I want a pc to give me the best "bang for my buck possible" and preferably under the 500 quid mark. My questions are as follow

1. When's the best time to buy pre-buit PC's. i'd imagine it's the january sales but i'm not sure
2.are there any major developments on the horizon that it would be prudent to wait for? like the sandy bridge was
3. Will a 1080p monitor be ok to play games?
 
Today I modified my newly built machine just a bit.

asrock extreme4 p67
i5 2500k
16GB 1600 mhz ram
gtx 570
1tb caviar black
CM HAF 932
corsair bronze 80/20 750W

I added a SSD (corsair m4 128gb), got that new firmware, and reinstalled w7 on it. I added the cm hyper 212+ and OCd to 4.2GHz with auto-voltage.

Right now, the cores are maxing at 60/65/70/67 after a few hours of p95. Vcore is topping out at just under 1.31. (idle minimums: 26/24/33/27)

Should I go for a higher clock?
 
Open Source said:
Today I modified my newly built machine just a bit.

asrock extreme4 p67
i5 2500k
16GB 1600 mhz ram
gtx 570
1tb caviar black
CM HAF 932
corsair bronze 80/20 750W

I added a SSD (corsair m4 128gb), got that new firmware, and reinstalled w7 on it. I added the cm hyper 212+ and OCd to 4.2GHz with auto-voltage.

Right now, the cores are maxing at 60/65/70/67 after a few hours of p95. Vcore is topping out at just under 1.31. (idle minimums: 26/24/33/27)

Should I go for a higher clock?
You can pust it until you hit 1.35V and/or 75C. 4.4-4.5 is the usual sweet spot. Doing the overclocking manually will lead to lower voltages => lower temps. All you have to do is run Prime95 for ~10 min to see max voltage and temp. If you are happy with it, run it at least a few hours more for stability test.
 
knitoe said:
You can pust it until you hit 1.35V and/or 75C. 4.4-4.5 is the usual sweet spot. Doing the overclocking manually will lead to lower voltages => lower temps. All you have to do is run Prime95 for ~10 min to see max voltage and temp. If you are happy with it, run it at least a few hours more for stability test.

I set Vcore to 1.35 and multi to 45. CPU was kicking down to 4.2GHz when the hottest core was at 65C, weird. Load line calibration was taking Vcore down to 1.26. Set LLC to level 2 and now Vcore mostly stays arond 1.35, but CPU clocking down to 4.2GHz and temps are up to 72 on the hottest core.
 
umm, I got a stupid question.

Im playing fifa, and if I use v-Sync the game will only render 60fps, stable and such. But if I turn off v-sync, it will render around 150fps, which is of no use because of my shitty monitor.

Will the graphics card work harder with v-sync disabled? I guess it does as it should work 100% to show as much fps as possible but maybe not.

Just trying to conserve my gpu to last longer, one step at a time.
 
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