·feist· said:This:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=26388661&postcount=8506
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=26388903&postcount=8508
No need to worry about static, as despite its name, this is just a miniaturized compressor. Also, no need to worry about it frosting up, like canned air. You don't have to hold it close for it to be effective, and it's best to keep a slight distance when cleaning frail components. Like TheExodu5 mentioned, you'll want to hold or tape down your fan blades to avoid possible damage. If you're unsure, or that sounds scary in anyway, just watch some usage videos.
(I want to be able to run Skyrim with above-average settings)upandaway said:Hey guys.. I was hoping for some advice on a build. Never built/chose a PC before. I'm looking at the OP a lot but it's still a bit stressful to just buy something without posting here.
Anyway, I really wanted to build one myself, but after a bit of searching it seems infinitely more time-efficient and cost-efficient to just buy a premade one (since if I don't, I'll have to import most parts, and the price just blows up).
I can get the following pre-made PC for ~590 bucks:
Power Supply: IN-WIN Power Man 450W
Case: CoolerMaster 370
CPU: i5 2500
Mobo: ASUS P8H61M LX B3
HD: WD 500gb
RAM: 4gb DDR3 1333MHz (and they won't specify whose)
DVD: Standard LG one
And then I can import a GTX460 and put it in, which would be ~190 bucks.
YupFjordson said:Ah, okay. Thank you. So with the 560ti and everything else I should be good to go for gaming?
On that motherboard noupandaway said:I'm getting close to buying this and I still have a few questions, hope you guys don't mind. Thanks!
(I want to be able to run Skyrim with above-average settings)
The questions:
1. Am I missing a lot by getting the 2500 instead of 2500k? It doesn't seem like I'll be able to get the K one for a decent price.
I don't know if I need to overclock. I don't know if I need a 212+, either. Will I need it to run 2012 games decently?
2. It seems I can get the Radeon 6850 1GB for ~220 bucks pre-built without needing to import the GTX460, but I have no clue if it's a good deal or not. Anyone?
3. I need to install Win64bit, right?
4. Am I supposed to download all the drivers without looking into it or is there something I should look out for..?
Any help appreciated.
Those cards should do especially if they're in the right price range for you.awwyeahgurrl said:Guys, I'm looking for a mid ranged card for a family member. Nothing too crazy in price or power just something to run 1080p video and play an old game or two. I was thinking along the lines of a HD4670 or GT 240. Any ideas?
R2D4 said:I have one of these and it's awesome. Gets dust out of anywhere. Be careful not to block the bottom of it though. Other wise it will get really hot really fast.
MisterNoisy said:I've got one too, and can't recommend it highly enough. I recommend taking everything outdoors, though - the 'dust explosion' is phenomenal.
giri said:Asking for Opinions on the below combination. Replacing a dieing mother board for a quad core.
I5-2500K
Gigabyte Z68XP-UD3
8G (4Gx2) 2133 G.Skill Ripjaws-X
Also tossing up whether to get 2 WD Black 1TB hdd's and run them in raid (mirrored) or to just get a SSD.
Any recomendations on SSD brands (outside of Intel that is, i already have one mortgage)?
EphemeralDream said:Looking to upgrade my video card sometime soonish (have a 4670 right now). Should I expect good deals around the holidays or am I wasting my time? I see a few good deals right now.
I've been looking and thinking i'll get theMC RaZaR said:OCZ and Crucial are good brands I suppose. I'm a fan of AData.
giri said:I've been looking and thinking i'll get the
120GB OCZ Agility 3 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s SSD Drive
I'm assuming this will work with the Intel® Smart Response Technology stuff, it sounds like it's just an option in the BIOS to turn that on, when you have any SSD connected. Can someone confirm that?
SSD + HDDgiri said:Asking for Opinions on the below combination. Replacing a dieing mother board for a quad core.
I5-2500K
Gigabyte Z68XP-UD3
8G (4Gx2) 2133 G.Skill Ripjaws-X
Also tossing up whether to get 2 WD Black 1TB hdd's and run them in raid (mirrored) or to just get a SSD.
Any recomendations on SSD brands (outside of Intel that is, i already have one mortgage)?
FineEphemeralDream said:Looking to upgrade my video card sometime soonish (have a 4670 right now). Should I expect good deals around the holidays or am I wasting my time? I see a few good deals right now.
MSI R6870 Twin Frozr II for 159 + Dirt 3
XFX HD-687A-ZHFC for 159 + Dirt 3
PowerColor AX6870 1GB for 146
SAPPHIRE 100314-3L Radeon HD 6870 for 149
Also I have a 500W Antec EarthWatts right now. That's fine if my proc. is a Phenom II X4?
I wouldn't call OCZ a good SSD brand. Only Intel and Crucial for me right now. Most SSDs just use Sandforce at the moment anyway with 25nm.MC RaZaR said:OCZ and Crucial are good brands I suppose. I'm a fan of AData.
I'm no expert either, but i do know that Crucial and Intel are an extra $80 - $100 for the 120GB equivalent in OCZ/ Others.Hazaro said:SSD + HDD
Fine
I wouldn't call OCZ a good SSD brand. Only Intel and Crucial for me right now. Most SSDs just use Sandforce at the moment anyway with 25nm.
I'm not an expert on SSDs, but I can comfortably recommend the Intel 320 and the Crucial M4.
Oh shit, I totally forgot about that. Hmm. Might wait until the end of next month to build my rig.Wolf Akela said:Cyber Monday is so close. You should hold on to your money.
Schmattakopf said:Dumb question about fans. I just replaced my motherboard and cooler and since I'm already taking everything apart, I'm looking at my fan setup. I'm wondering which way top fans should be blowing. I found people saying blowing out is stupid, and other saying that blowing in is stupid.
I've got two on top, right next to each other, which is probably unnecessary but I don't know where else to put another fan.
I have the two 140mm fans on top, then I have one intake in the front, one intake on the side (by the GPU) and 120mm exhaust in the back. There is another 140mm spot on the side above the one I'm using, but a fan there would physically interfere with the CPU cooler. There's a spot on the other side, one by the hard drive bay, and two on the bottom, but all smaller than 140mm.abusori said:From my experience, top fans are usually exhaust; do you have a front and/or side intake fan?
Schmattakopf said:I have the two 140mm fans on top, then I have one intake in the front, one intake on the side (by the GPU) and 120mm exhaust in the back. There is another 140mm spot on the side above the one I'm using, but a fan there would physically interfere with the CPU cooler. There's a spot on the other side, one by the hard drive bay, and two on the bottom, but all smaller than 140mm.
Alright, thanks. They're already on exhaust because I figured they should be going with the heat. But when I searched around, there were some recommendations to have intake toward the CPU.abusori said:Ah, that's pretty similar to mine except my fans are huge. I've got the top one on exhaust, and I'd recommend you do the same. Air goes in the side and front, then goes out the top and back. Works pretty well for me and I've got dual 6950 toxics both overclocked pretty high.
Mr_eX said:My PC got 7 BDODs last night. Using blue screen viewer it says my kernel is causing is. About half the BSODs are memory management errors but some of other errors are pool header( or something like that) and system services but for each type of error it says it's cause by the kernal driver.
Last night I ran CPU-Z and went to the memory tabs and everything was blank then about 30 seconds later I got a BSOD. When my PC finished booting up and i went back into CPU-Z my memory was showing up and my PC didnt BSOD. Which is making me think it's my ram causing this.
I took out all but one stick and played Battlefield 3(which used like 98% of the 2 gigs) and I did this for each stick and wasn't able for force a crash with any of them.
So should I keep testing to make sure it's my ram and not something else or should I just buy new ram(you can get 16gigs for around $80 now)?
Mr_eX said:My PC got 7 BDODs last night. Using blue screen viewer it says my kernel is causing is. About half the BSODs are memory management errors but some of other errors are pool header( or something like that) and system services but for each type of error it says it's cause by the kernal driver.
Last night I ran CPU-Z and went to the memory tabs and everything was blank then about 30 seconds later I got a BSOD. When my PC finished booting up and i went back into CPU-Z my memory was showing up and my PC didnt BSOD. Which is making me think it's my ram causing this.
I took out all but one stick and played Battlefield 3(which used like 98% of the 2 gigs) and I did this for each stick and wasn't able for force a crash with any of them.
So should I keep testing to make sure it's my ram and not something else or should I just buy new ram(you can get 16gigs for around $80 now)?
Wouldn't upgrade the RAM, DDR2 is dead, expensive (relative to DDR3) and not worth investing in.Babalu. said:Ok so my brother has my old PC and wants to play battlefield 3 and other newer games on it (skyrim, guild wars2)and run it at 1680x1050 at 60fps. Right now it can play battlefield on low but definitely is not smooth and kind of sucks.
Anyway, i'm wondering if this build is salvageable with some upgrades or should I tell him to let me build him another one. I personally think it might still be salvageable with maybe a gpu/ram/psu/overclock upgrades but i'd like others opinions please. Will the motherboard take newer video cards and memory without problems. Is anything able to be overclocked easily? Thanks!
Already did that, 0 errors.Salaadin said:I regularly check my RAM with Memtest 86+. Anytime I had PC issues and suspected the RAM, this would show me errors confirm that it needed to be replaced.
Pretty low, 8-8-8-24 will be more intensive than 9-9-9-24. It's latency, so lower is better, but if you're not stable now that probably won't do you any good.Mr_eX said:Already did that, 0 errors.
I feel kind of stupid right now though. I just assumed my cas latency was suppose to be 9-9-9-24 but I just looked up my ram and it's suppose to be 8-8-8-24. When I get home I'll manually set it to that in the bios. What are the odds of this solving my issues?
Something went wrong. OCCT shows my Vcore at 1.42, while CPUz/HWMonitor show it at 1.07, both under stress and idle. But I set it to 120 watts and 97 amps; it shouldn't be able to go over 1.24.Schmattakopf said:I started messing around with my 2500k and I overclocked using Turbo Boost, but it doesn't have settings for changing the voltage, just the wattage and ampere limits. I set the "Turbo Ratio" for one/two cores to 45 (4.5GHz), lower for three/four cores, I changed the watt limit to 120 from 95, and I didn't touch the amp limit (which is 97). It's running fine, stress tests are good, but I'm wondering how I should increase the watts/amps if I want to go higher, and also if this is an effective way to overclock.
I'll try increasing my voltage to 1.65 like SuperN suggested too but I really don't know what else to try.chaosblade said:Pretty low, 8-8-8-24 will be more intensive than 9-9-9-24. It's latency, so lower is better, but if you're not stable now that probably won't do you any good.
What MB do you have?Schmattakopf said:Something went wrong. OCCT shows my Vcore at 1.42, while CPUz/HWMonitor show it at 1.07, both under stress and idle. But I set it to 120 watts and 97 amps; it shouldn't be able to go over 1.24.
Krauser Kat said:i2500k @4.6
4gig ram
2 650gb HDD
1 80GB SSD
1 4890 1gb
750W power supply.
Can i get another 4890 on the cheap and crossfire that shit for better BF3 performance with my current power supply.
Gigabyte P67 UD3.knitoe said:What MB do you have?
In HWMonitor, you need to look at CPU VCore numbers. Run Prime95 and see what max number is. And, why don't you just overclock all the cores to 4.5GHz instead of using turbo on some cores? Also, use Offset instead of manually entering a CPU voltage. This way, the CPU voltage will drop during idle and increase during load.Schmattakopf said:Gigabyte P67 UD3.
I'm confused. I just reset everything, then set the Vcore to 1.2V. OCCT still reads 1.42V. CPUz/HWMonitor both say the CPU Vcore is 1.07V, although HWMonitor has a separate value just called "CPU" which is 1.20V...
I was looking at "CPU Vcore" in HWMonitor. It said 1.07V like CPUz, but there was that other value that said 1.2V (which was confusing because that's what I set the Vcore to).knitoe said:In HWMonitor, you need to look at CPU VCore numbers. Run Prime95 and see what max number is. And, why don't you just overclock all the cores to 4.5GHz instead of using turbo on some cores? Also, use Offset instead of manually entering a CPU voltage. This way, the CPU voltage will drop during idle and increase during load.
I don't have a Gigabyte MB so I wouldn't be able to tell you. Google. I am sure there is a overclocking guide for that MB out there.Schmattakopf said:I was looking at "CPU Vcore" in HWMonitor. It said 1.07V like CPUz, but there was that other value that said 1.2V (which was confusing because that's what I set the Vcore to).
Is "Dynamic Vcore" the same thing as offset?
Yes, there are a few. They actually mostly suggest overclocking with Turbo Boost and none of them talk about offset. But I'm not really having trouble overclocking; I'm having trouble with programs reading my voltage wrong. Only that one value in HWMonitor ("CPU") is correct.knitoe said:I don't have a Gigabyte MB so I wouldn't be able to tell you. Google. I am sure there is a overclocking guide for that MB out there.
Wolf Akela said:Cyber Monday is so close. You should hold on to your money.