Sleeplessnights
Banned
I heard great things about the G700 but which keyboard should I get with it?
"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Spectacular Dr Dawg
Member
Really? I used this guide and it told me to stress test for 10 minutes and then increase the clock if it's stable. I ran it at 965,975 and 985 for 20 minutes just fine but the driver crashed after i closed kombustor. I'm totally new to this so I don't really know what I'm doing haha.BigBlackGamer said:
Do you know any good Lightning specific guides?
BigBlackGamer
Member
you can get alot of good info and starting points in this thread
http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/1049463-official-gtx-580-overclocking-club.html
alot of the users in that thread have GTX 580 Lightnings.
http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/1049463-official-gtx-580-overclocking-club.html
alot of the users in that thread have GTX 580 Lightnings.
Spectacular Dr Dawg
Member
Whoa 225 pages. I'll try to read that thread. Thanks!BigBlackGamer said:
It's no different than any other GPU when it comes to OC. Start at stock clocks. Run a benchmark and if it doesn't crash or display artifacts increase the speed by 10mhz. Rinse repeat until you get to a range where you are fine with the temps and have achieved stability.Spectacular Dr Dawg said:
Sleeplessnights said:
Either a super cheap rubber dome keyboard (~$5-10), a scissor switch keyboard (~$60, if you like that type of keyboard), or a mechanical keyboard (~$120 from wasdkeyboards.com).
jstevenson said:
Personally, I prefer the PS3 as a Blu-Ray player (outside of fan noise), so I don't think you should worry about losless audio.
balladofwindfishes
Member
Can you build a computer that runs modern games for around 300 dollars?
Things I don't need
- Case
- DVD Drive
Thins I need
- Everything else
See, I made a PC (using this thread's help) for 800 and some change awhile back. But now my little brother is jealous and wants a computer, so my parents want me to build him one on a very low budget for his birthday.
A monitor is going to eat at least 100 dollars, bringing the actual price of components down to 200 dollars. Yea, that's not going to happen, is it :x
Things I don't need
- Case
- DVD Drive
Thins I need
- Everything else
See, I made a PC (using this thread's help) for 800 and some change awhile back. But now my little brother is jealous and wants a computer, so my parents want me to build him one on a very low budget for his birthday.
A monitor is going to eat at least 100 dollars, bringing the actual price of components down to 200 dollars. Yea, that's not going to happen, is it :x
balladofwindfishes said:
No, no it's not. You miiight be able to get something together for $300 sans monitor, but even that would be.. insufficient to play any modern games at any decent resolution or graphical settings.
Have him combine birthday/Christmas and get one for $600.
Garou
Member
balladofwindfishes said:
Get used components:
Intel Socket 775-Mainboard
Something along the lines of a semi-old Intel Core 2 Duo-CPU (for example E6850)
4GB of RAM (also used, but new shouldn't be expensive either way)
Hard Drive (maybe 320GB?)
GeForce 8800 GT
Should be doable and should give you a medium to good performance @720p. With 2-3 years old games high settings@60fps shouldn't be a problem (eg. Mirrors Edge, Valve-Games, Unreal3-Games like UT3, Batman:AA, etc.)
Spectacular Dr Dawg
Member
That's what I did. The benchmark ran just fine with no artifacts or anything up to 985 with stock voltage. When i closed MSI Kombustor I had a driver crash and after restarting I tried with with 980 and my PC immediately started chugging. I just thought that was strange.Smokey said:
Spectacular Dr Dawg said:
try some other software. Furmark is the most extreme when disabling your cards overcurrent protection but totally unrealistic and possibly damaging.
I always used to suggest using Unigine Heaven Benchmark, but lately I've found Battlefield 3 to be even more stressing on my GPU
just boot up some BF3 level at 985 with stock voltage, I'm sure your driver crashes within seconds
(or your entire system hangs)You should take a look at that incremental pc guide (tinyurl.com/falconguide), which has a few more low(est)-range options than in the OP. The "destitute" build there would be about $240 for you, sans monitor. As for an OS, Windows 8 dev build is a free option, at least until it expires in March.balladofwindfishes said:
In any case, it's kind of a bad time anyway to go ultra-cheap as hard drives are apparently marked up and black friday / cyber monday is only a few weeks away.
Giriath_89
Member
Man the GTX 580 Lightning is good. I have mine running 980MHz and it rarely breaks 70 degrees.
balladofwindfishes said:
Approx prices for new budget components:
Motherboard - $80
CPU - $80
HDD - $100 (this is what's going to kill you atm)
GPU - $80
PSU - $40
RAM - $20
Still looking at ~$400, sadly. The HDD prices are really, really bad right now. You could have gotten an acceptable HDD for $40 before this hike.
Spectacular Dr Dawg
Member
Thanks. I'll try again from the beginning and use Unigine instead of Kombustor.n0n44m said:try some other software. Furmark is the most extreme when disabling your cards overcurrent protection but totally unrealistic and possibly damaging.
I always used to suggest using Unigine Heaven Benchmark, but lately I've found Battlefield 3 to be even more stressing on my GPU
just boot up some BF3 level at 985 with stock voltage, I'm sure your driver crashes within seconds
What voltage are you running at?Giriath_89 said:
Giriath_89
Member
Spectacular Dr Dawg said:
1.118V.
Giriath_89
Member
Menelaus said:
I'm liking mine as well. Just clocked it to 4,8.
RibbedHero
Member
TheExodu5 said:
What price hike?
RibbedHero
Member
kagete said:
Dash Kappei
Not actually that important
Hazaro: I'll reply as soon as Champions League matches are overjstevenson said:
For you: it's not worth it unless you are a crazy videophile like me, Ps3 handles BRD just fine.
Remember tho that only the Slim model support Full HDMI Bitstreaming, with the FAT you're stuck with DTS core and Dolby Digital core (meaning it'll aleays extract the lossy audio stream core of the lossless stream and output than one).
Games don't support those codecs at the moment but there's also no reason they'do go with PAVP.
Qwell
Member
It's time to do some upgrades but I'm a little stuck trying to decide my upgrade path for my 2nd computer.
My main PC is currently:
P5N-D
2x2gb ddr2 800mhz
QX6850 @3.0ghz
MSI twin frozer gtx 560ti 1gb
I will be upgrading it with:
GA-Z68X-UD3H
corsair vengence 4x4gb ddr3 1600mhz
2600k
I will be taking the leftovers from my main pc and putting them into my 2nd gaming machine, probably paired with a ATI 5770 video card. My question is, since the QX6850 has a FSB of 1333mhz, is it worth it to upgrade the mobo and ram? The P5N-D is limited to DDR2 800mhz, but I found another asus, limited in features but has the LGA 775 socket with FSB of 1333, and I can get 8gbs of ddr3 1333 for like $45 at Frys. I was thinking of these parts
new 2nd PC:
QX6850
Asus P5G41T
Patriot DDR3 G2 1333mhz
Would I even notice a difference going from ddr2 800mhz to ddr3 1333mhz? I'm getting kind of conflicting information when I try to find info online. A lot of comparisons were done back in 2008 with slower ddr3 memory.
My main PC is currently:
P5N-D
2x2gb ddr2 800mhz
QX6850 @3.0ghz
MSI twin frozer gtx 560ti 1gb
I will be upgrading it with:
GA-Z68X-UD3H
corsair vengence 4x4gb ddr3 1600mhz
2600k
I will be taking the leftovers from my main pc and putting them into my 2nd gaming machine, probably paired with a ATI 5770 video card. My question is, since the QX6850 has a FSB of 1333mhz, is it worth it to upgrade the mobo and ram? The P5N-D is limited to DDR2 800mhz, but I found another asus, limited in features but has the LGA 775 socket with FSB of 1333, and I can get 8gbs of ddr3 1333 for like $45 at Frys. I was thinking of these parts
new 2nd PC:
QX6850
Asus P5G41T
Patriot DDR3 G2 1333mhz
Would I even notice a difference going from ddr2 800mhz to ddr3 1333mhz? I'm getting kind of conflicting information when I try to find info online. A lot of comparisons were done back in 2008 with slower ddr3 memory.
So really, unless I decided to pull the trigger on a really expensive video card, don't bother? Better off just SLIng with another GTX 460, if I really wanted a big boost? Haven't tried my 460 OC'd in most of those games, so I don't really notice that much of a difference, but I do in GTA IV.Hazaro said:
Niblet said:
If your reason for getting an SSD is benchmark numbers, or extremely disk IO heavy tasks, then no, you shouldn't be looking at those or any other SSD where value is a major concern. But for the normal average consumer looking to switch from a mechanical HDD to a SSD, the performance of SF2200 SSDs is more than enough (even an old Intel X25-M is a hugely noticeable difference). And getting a current generation 6Gbps SSD at < $1/GB is tremendous value.
The only mark against those drives for its intended audience is the questionable reliability of SF drives, but the random BSOD bug is supposed to be fixed, and Corsair generally provides good support too.
Dash Kappei
Not actually that important
Hazaro said:
1) AMD 5xxx or 6xxx series if you're going to hook it up to a receiver via HDMI for audio&video and then receiver to tv/monitor via hdmi for video.
AMD+audio card (ie Xfi Bravura) with at least 5.1 analog outputs if you're going to hook it up via analog to a receiver which doesn't have HDMI or doesn't decode full DTS MA and Dolby True HD codecs (again, if it supports "only" DTS and DD it'll still be compatible but only extract the core lossy streams instead of the full lossless bitrate... So using this method you'll be able to get the full lossless stream in the form of decoded LPCM audio by your PC player software): you will trick the AMD HDMI audio driver and, for example, Power DVD into thinking you're outputting PAVP via HDMI when in fact you'll be using analog non-downsampled outputs thanks to Reclock. You could also skip the audio card and use you MB's analog outputs, obviously the quality of the DACs will make an impact, how audible will depend on the quality of your receiver/power amps and speakers.
Doesn't matter which video card (AMD or NVidia) if you're going to hook it up to a TV with 2.0 audio or desktop monitor w/ 2.1 system, you wouldn't be able to hear the difference. Also you won't need an audio card in this case.
2) Nope, doesn't matter for gaming.
That's is, unless I haven't got it right about what you're asking.
Dash Kappei
Not actually that important
I have a question too, I'm doing my first OC on a core i5 750, heatsink is a Scythe Ninja revB.
Just a mild one to 3.4Ghz.
BCLK 170 (or even 168) X20 Multi
memory multiplayer to X8 since my RAM is 1333Mhz dual channel 9-9-9-24.
Afterburner OFF and everything else Enabled.
This gives me a much higher result under Cinebench's cpus benchmark (4.3 points vs 3.68 at stock)
How do I know the correct vcore and vtt voltages?
My temps are too high under full load Prime95 STT it reaches 97° (!) after 5 passages and I have to switch it off.
Idle is at 43° for the highest core temp. At stock It goes only up to 45° under full load, 32° idle.
Do I just need to lower Vcore as low as possible as long as the system is stable (so going from 1.25v to 1.18 and so on...) since the risk is only if I go higher (to make it more stable) and not lower to keep heat and consumption down, am I right?
What I don't also understand is how do I calculate the VTT. Or should I leave it to auto? But then it gets hot!
Just a mild one to 3.4Ghz.
BCLK 170 (or even 168) X20 Multi
memory multiplayer to X8 since my RAM is 1333Mhz dual channel 9-9-9-24.
Afterburner OFF and everything else Enabled.
This gives me a much higher result under Cinebench's cpus benchmark (4.3 points vs 3.68 at stock)
How do I know the correct vcore and vtt voltages?
My temps are too high under full load Prime95 STT it reaches 97° (!) after 5 passages and I have to switch it off.
Idle is at 43° for the highest core temp. At stock It goes only up to 45° under full load, 32° idle.
Do I just need to lower Vcore as low as possible as long as the system is stable (so going from 1.25v to 1.18 and so on...) since the risk is only if I go higher (to make it more stable) and not lower to keep heat and consumption down, am I right?
What I don't also understand is how do I calculate the VTT. Or should I leave it to auto? But then it gets hot!
Had a couple of small scares last night swapping in my new parts, but everything worked on initial boot-up! So glad I won't have to deal with RMA-ing anything.
Turns out the my display was set to the wrong input when I first turned it on;; so I ended up skipping past ASUS' initial boot up bios set up! Also not having a usb keyboard on hand didn't help :lol.
Now, I have a few questions;
For those of you using the 212+ with a 2500k, did you find that the processor was smaller than the heatsink base? What method did you guys follow for applying the thermal paste? I intended on following this (excluding the lapping), but eventually decided on applying a very thin layer and spreading into the gaps with a credit card. The BIOS read my CPU temp at about 40 degrees C (on an open case missing the side panels and front bezel, mind you) so I may not have seated it correctly? I think I'll reapply and seat it later this week. Do you guys usually give the paste some time to cure on the mobo? I didn't wait (was in a rush) and placed the mobo into the case after I was done putting on the 212+.
And as far as orientation/push-pull configs go, which do you prefer?
Turns out my Windows 7 usb install doesn't work either
. Gonna have to recheck the iso and try making a DVD this time.
Turns out the my display was set to the wrong input when I first turned it on;; so I ended up skipping past ASUS' initial boot up bios set up! Also not having a usb keyboard on hand didn't help :lol.
Now, I have a few questions;
For those of you using the 212+ with a 2500k, did you find that the processor was smaller than the heatsink base? What method did you guys follow for applying the thermal paste? I intended on following this (excluding the lapping), but eventually decided on applying a very thin layer and spreading into the gaps with a credit card. The BIOS read my CPU temp at about 40 degrees C (on an open case missing the side panels and front bezel, mind you) so I may not have seated it correctly? I think I'll reapply and seat it later this week. Do you guys usually give the paste some time to cure on the mobo? I didn't wait (was in a rush) and placed the mobo into the case after I was done putting on the 212+.
And as far as orientation/push-pull configs go, which do you prefer?
I followed Hazaro's advice here - I have a CM690 Adv. II, so there's an exhaust in the back and at the top so I opted for just the single push fan going across the mobo/case into the rear exhaust.Hazaro said:
Turns out my Windows 7 usb install doesn't work either
. Gonna have to recheck the iso and try making a DVD this time.Misanthropy
Member
I know that no one in here can predict complex weather systems but I was wondering if by March (when Ivy Bridge comes out) that the HDD prices will go back down to what they used to be. Like, what are the chances?
I put a small glob on the processor, then spread it out by simply putting the heatsink in place and fastening it to the motherboard (squeezing the paste to cover the processor). I'm getting 33°C idle, and 55-60°C under full load - I've overclocked it to 4.3GHz at 1.3V. If you're getting 40° idle, there's probably something wrong.Conceptor said:
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Need some quick PSU advice. Been getting conflicting reports.
Here's the sit-rep: I'm running an OC'd Llano A6-3650 quad-core, GTX 570, SSD, HDD, etc. I'm powering all of this with my old Enermax Liberty 500w modular PSU (awesome PSU... when I bought it in '06.) I haven't used the PSU in roughly 2 years, so it's just been sitting under my bed. Now, after entering everything into this PSU calculator: http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine, it claims I need 518w at the minimum, recommended 568w. What's odd is that my PC runs fine thus far, even after overclocking the GTX 570 to 900 Mhz on the core. Battlefield 3 runs fine.
HOWEVER, earlier today when I tried to run OCCT to stress test my videocard, my entire computer shut off as soon as the test started. am guessing that means it cannot handle the load generated by OCCT, despite BF3 running fine.
So should I get a new PSU? I'd like 600-650w at the minimum and I LOVE modular PSU's, cable management is important to me. I'd like to not spend an assload as well since I'm somewhat obsessed with 'high performance, low budget' based builds.
Thanks for any input.
Edit: Newegg has the OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W modular PSU on sale for $60 after rebate, for example. Does OCZ still make quality stuff? I haven't done my homework on PSU's in a long time.
Am I better off waiting for Black Friday and Cyber Monday to buy a PSU?
Here's the sit-rep: I'm running an OC'd Llano A6-3650 quad-core, GTX 570, SSD, HDD, etc. I'm powering all of this with my old Enermax Liberty 500w modular PSU (awesome PSU... when I bought it in '06.) I haven't used the PSU in roughly 2 years, so it's just been sitting under my bed. Now, after entering everything into this PSU calculator: http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine, it claims I need 518w at the minimum, recommended 568w. What's odd is that my PC runs fine thus far, even after overclocking the GTX 570 to 900 Mhz on the core. Battlefield 3 runs fine.
HOWEVER, earlier today when I tried to run OCCT to stress test my videocard, my entire computer shut off as soon as the test started. am guessing that means it cannot handle the load generated by OCCT, despite BF3 running fine.
So should I get a new PSU? I'd like 600-650w at the minimum and I LOVE modular PSU's, cable management is important to me. I'd like to not spend an assload as well since I'm somewhat obsessed with 'high performance, low budget' based builds.
Thanks for any input.
Edit: Newegg has the OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W modular PSU on sale for $60 after rebate, for example. Does OCZ still make quality stuff? I haven't done my homework on PSU's in a long time.
Am I better off waiting for Black Friday and Cyber Monday to buy a PSU?
jstevenson
Sailor Stevenson
Hazaro said:
I think my current desktop is ridiculous 7900GTX or something, it's coming up on 5-6 years (which was cutting edge then) - but stayed mostly on the consoles last few years.
I'm probably buying late Nov / early Dec. Don't want to miss out on the latest/greatest, but also don't want to overspend. Obviously the goal though is to get running 1920x1080/60fps at the highest detail setting possible.
BoobPhysics101
Banned
jstevenson said:
If you're building a new rig, wait for Black Friday/Cyber Monday. There will be some ridiculous deals on CPU/mobo combos, along with RAM, cases and videocards. You'll save a bundle if you do that.
Broadbandito
Member
so my f4 wasn't failing lol, somehow my cords laid up into my gpu fan. Woot.
Now for a question.
Can I image my primary hdd and transfer it to ssd?
or would it be easier to make a master windows cd (I bought windows vista OEM 64 bit > bought the upgrade to win 7 ultimate 64 but I had to use a copied master disc to use it. Legit Key and all, if I reinstall windows will the key be able to be used again?)
Now for a question.
Can I image my primary hdd and transfer it to ssd?
or would it be easier to make a master windows cd (I bought windows vista OEM 64 bit > bought the upgrade to win 7 ultimate 64 but I had to use a copied master disc to use it. Legit Key and all, if I reinstall windows will the key be able to be used again?)
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Ugh, another thing: think I'm gonna take back my Llano A6-3650 + MSI A75MA-G55 mobo to Frys. Yeah, it's cheap as hell and performs well but it isn't overclocking the way I'd like it to.
Microcenter has the Intel (ugh) 2500k + Gigabyte Z68 mobo (which got excellent reviews) for $220 after rebate, so around $245~ after tax. It's $100 more than the cost of the Llano but will overclock to 4.5+ Ghz and I won't have to upgrade for 2-3 years if I stick with it.
Fuck it... going back over to the dark side I guess.
Microcenter has the Intel (ugh) 2500k + Gigabyte Z68 mobo (which got excellent reviews) for $220 after rebate, so around $245~ after tax. It's $100 more than the cost of the Llano but will overclock to 4.5+ Ghz and I won't have to upgrade for 2-3 years if I stick with it.
Fuck it... going back over to the dark side I guess.
BoobPhysics101 said:
OCCT PSU test is pretty much worst case scenario ... it's basically doing LinX + Furmark at the same time
still it means you are very close to maximizing your PSUs capability, and though it's nice it shuts down itself and doesn't blow up, I'd look for another PSU. I wouldn't run a PSU close to it's maximum capacity over a longer period, as it's both less efficient and it will wear down significantly faster.
Corsair TX/HX/AX or Seasonic are usually preferred for their build quality and performance, but a 700W OCZ should power your system without issues as well.
BoobPhysics101 said:
It's simply mind boggling that a Llano system and an i5 2500K system would even be considered by someone for the same use. Why would you go with a Llano build if using a discrete GPU anyway? That pretty much just defeats the main purpose of going with a Fusion CPU/APU.
I'd say $150-$250 is a good value range right now. SLi is a whole another issue on itself with compatibility, drivers, microstutter, extra power, noise, and heat. Dual GPU solutions have come a long long way though. I'd still easily recommend single card to everyone.Karmum said:
nVidia = no go for that?Dash Kappei said:
Ninja is a good HS, I'd reseat it. You want the lowest stable voltage for a clockspeed. Stock voltage should be fine for 3.4Ghz. Realtemp (or was it Coretemp) reports the VID as does Speccy or HWMonitor.Dash Kappei said:
A BB sized / 2 grains of rice sized ball (~3mm) in the middle is fine, a small line is fine as well.Conceptor said:but eventually decided on applying a very thin layer and spreading into the gaps with a credit card. The BIOS read my CPU temp at about 40 degrees C (on an open case missing the side panels and front bezel, mind you) so I may not have seated it correctly?
And as far as orientation/push-pull configs go, which do you prefer? I followed Hazaro's advice here - I have a CM690 Adv. II, so there's an exhaust in the back and at the top so I opted for just the single push fan going across the mobo/case into the rear exhaust.
Turns out my Windows 7 usb install doesn't work either
Spreading it out lets air get trapped and you don't want that. Also the new Intel chips have really crappy idle sensors so just look at load temps.
Fan on HS is fine that way.
Win 7 USB installs are iffy sometimes, you can retry it.
I'd suggest a GTX 570 or a 2GB 6950 then. Pocket that extra money for later. Going to be a nice jump anyway.jstevenson said:
You can image but I've heard it is not the best and there can be performance loss/weird stuff.Broadbandito said:
You can install with the upgrade disc, then install the upgrade on that install using the key.
OCZ PSU's are still ok.
AMD Llano A6-3650 quad-core with MSI FM1 mobo ($130)gokieks said:
GTX 570 - $80
Cheapo PC.
Now a 2500K + mobo is going to be $300.
Really for gaming other than RTS an aggressively overclocked A6 should do ok.
Wolf Akela
Member
[H]ard|OCP gave it a fail, and they're one of the few sites out there that does proper PSU reviews.
Consider these modular PSUs:
Rosewill HIVE 650w
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182132
Corsair TX550 550w
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139032
Seasonic M12II 620w
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095
Not sure if it's the same as the 620w, but I got the 520w version of the Seasonic. I have a midtower (NZXT Lexa S) and personally found the cables quite short.
Well the PSU isn't a death trap, it just isn't a 700W PSU :lolWolf Akela said:
Not surprised really, but OCZ isn't what I would call a bad PSU, it is the lowest I would recommend though.
I'd say BP550 for a GTX 570.
Up from that the 650w market is really neglected so my gut would say TX650M.
*$90AR + 10% off, hardwaresecrets said it is decent so that is good enough for me. Them plus jonnyguru and [h] as wolf said.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341051
BoobPhysics101
Banned
n0n44m said:
Thanks sir, your post confirmed what I believed. It was pretty funny seeing my whole system power off and thinking 'I guess it's not enough power after all.'
gokieks said:
Because 1. It was dirt cheap and 2. I was experimenting with the overclocking. Right now, since it doesn't have unlocked multipliers (gotta wait for 3670 and 3870 Black Edition/K's for that), the overclocking is extremely tricky and frustrating. These 32nm CPU's have the potential to hit 4-4.5 Ghz with unlocked multipliers, and I had it at 3.6 Ghz with stability in Windows. Where it loses stability is POST... the mobos simply don't seem to enjoy the BCLK being fucked with. It's a very bizarre situation right now, but I really do think Llano and Trinity have a ton of potential to be THE budget CPU's of choice. And TBH even at 3~ Ghz it has more than enough power not to CPU limit the majority of games.
But a $220~ 2500k + Z68 mobo are VERY hard to pass up for the performance/futureproofing they offer. Damn it.
Hazaro said:
Yeah, cheap and powerful. And 2500k + mobo is $220 at Microcenter, which is a 40 minute drive for me. I'll probably go to Frys tomorrow, return the Llano stuff, and go to Microcenter for a bangin' 2500k system. Then I'll need to order a PSU...
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Hazaro said:
If I snag that 2500k and want to hit 4.5+ Ghz and am also hitting 900+ Mhz core on my GTX 570, what do I need to give me safe breathing room? 600w at the minimum from a quality PSU?
Also, should I just wait til Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals on PSU's? I think I should be OK on this PSU running a 2500k and GTX 570 if I don't overclock until I get the new PSU, yeah?
Apologies for the barrage of questions, but what kind of RAM (1.5v for 2500k, correct?) should I be using with a 2500k setup? 1333? 1600? And I keep hearing about this 1.5v voltage thing and to avoid 1.65v RAM.
(And to further exemplify what a full brand switch entails, I'll need a Hyper 212+ because I'm sure the stock 2500k heatsink is junk.)
Dash Kappei
Not actually that important
Hazaro said:
Only the 430, 460 and 560 and not with every driver, support is wonky.
If you wanted to ask then nope, the GTX 580 does not support full HD audio bitstreaming.
Also, of course if you want 3D playback you need to go with AMD 6xxx instead of 5xxx (although there's indeed a way with some models to get 3D playback over HDMI 1.3a without needing HDMI 1.4).
Which means? ;P I honestly don't know what "reseating' should do/means, sorry!
I use Core Temp in fact, you mean I should use it for something else besides reading temps?
Tried stock voltage but cores got waaaay too hot under full load stresstest (95c).
I've found that @3.4Ghz (from 2.67Ghz) 1.18 Vcore and VTT 1.17 give me great performances (more points in Cinebench than @3.6Ghz with higher voltages), is super stable (at least in memtest and passed 8 hours of Prime95 without errors) and gets to a maximum of 62c under full load for the 4 cores.
Again, I've found those values just by trial and error, don't really have full grasp of what I'm doing, my first OC and I'm just reading around but of course nobody cares for the 'ole i5 750.
A 2500K OC adds about 50w at regular voltages under load, a GTX 570 isn't that much.BoobPhysics101 said:
A decent 550W should be fine, but if you want modular your only budget choice is the BP550.
Right now I'd say the best value would be the OCZ I linked for about $80 (not the modxstream). If you like warranties you might want the corsair 650w instead, but then you get into price territory of the Seasonic 620w... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095
Black Friday isn't going to save you much. Cyber Mondays have been shitty, NCIXUS might have some good deals though.
1.5V RAM. 1333 is fine, 1600 if it is like $3 more is fine too.
Download most recent coretemp and realtemp. Will say CPU VID on it.Dash Kappei said:
Reseat means take it off, clean paste with alcohol, and apply new paste and mount it again.
Your voltages seems right in line with the clock speed, but on stock voltage you should be hitting 75C max and no where near those higher temp.
Dash Kappei
Not actually that important
ok thanks
Just upgraded to an i2500K, 8gb Corsair Vengeance and a 60gb SSD (for OS and a few other things) from a Q9540, 4gb ram. My GPU is a 6950 2gb.
You guys think I will see much of a performance increase? Was worried my older system was holding my 6950 back as was seeing far lower performance than other people with 6950's in some games..
You guys think I will see much of a performance increase? Was worried my older system was holding my 6950 back as was seeing far lower performance than other people with 6950's in some games..
Hey guys I know some you think this is going to sound pretty stupid, but I was wondering what you guys would in this situation.
I really love my gaming PC and I sometimes I do purchase multi platform releases on it, but the reality of moving into a dorm next semester and an apartment next year I'm finding it really hard to purchase some games for the PC and leaning towards the console versions for games like Skyrim. It would be way easier to bring the console along instead of the tower,monitor,speaker,mouse, and keyboard and in the end all of this has somehow made me regret getting one and somehow selling it back all because I wouldn't be spending enough time with it.
I know it sounds crazy and it probably is, but I was curious as to what you guys would do if you were in my situation.
I really love my gaming PC and I sometimes I do purchase multi platform releases on it, but the reality of moving into a dorm next semester and an apartment next year I'm finding it really hard to purchase some games for the PC and leaning towards the console versions for games like Skyrim. It would be way easier to bring the console along instead of the tower,monitor,speaker,mouse, and keyboard and in the end all of this has somehow made me regret getting one and somehow selling it back all because I wouldn't be spending enough time with it.
I know it sounds crazy and it probably is, but I was curious as to what you guys would do if you were in my situation.
- Status