Sounds good, I figured I was overdoing it but I was trying to compensate for my inherit stinginess lol.
Here's the parts I swapped out as per your suggestions:
EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card
Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Corsair 650W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/85q9
I noticed the price difference between the 650 and 750 was only like $10, is there any value in getting the 750 for future proofing or anything?
FUCK
So I told you guys about how my computer started BSOD:ing and then refused to enter Windows, shortly after I (luckily) ordered a SSD and made backups of all my stuff. I thought it was my ancient 2005 HDD that failed, Occam's Razor and all that. But now... just got my new SSD and installed Windows, had strange problems and got a couple of BSODs, was like SHIT...
...long story short, I ran memtest and one of my sticks is ERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERROR ad infinitum. The other one checks out fine and has no errors. Of course I've got one of those fancy 8 GB kits with two sticks, so I'll probably have to send in both stick and thus being unable to use my comp for probably the whole of next week...
FUCK
ASSBUCKETS OF SHITFUCK!
ASSBUCKETS OF SHITFUCK!
ASSBUCKETS OF SHITFUCK!
So IN ADDITION to the above problem, I've discovered that the source of the really loud cricket noises coming from the comp was not the HDD as I thought... To say the least, I was surprised when I had installed the SSD, started gaming, and it made the same loud noise as before! it was the god damned PSU! It's louder than all the fans and sounds like a horny cricket choir non-stop while gaming. So in one day I've discovered that BOTH one of my RAM sticks AND my PSU have to be RMA:d...
FML
If I'm starting to put together a build and I've decided that I want to stay with i5-2500K is there a reason to still get a Z77 mobo if I'm not going Ivy Bridge now? I wouldn't anticipate upgrading my CPU for a year or more...
I'm having a minor issue with a new build.
Here's the basic specs: -
3770K
Maximus IV Gene Z/Gen3
16GB of Corsair RAM
Corsair 620HX PSU
No GPU is fitted yet as I'm saving up for one
In the BIOS, it lists my RAM as being 1,333 MHz when it's 1,600. I found someone with the same issue on another site and they just changed the relevant BIOS setting from "auto" to 1,600 and that was that, but when I try that I get a BSOD every time I shut the PC down.
Any idea what I may have done wrong, or what may be causing this?
Thanks, I checked the voltage and it's 1.5 Volts, which is what it's set to in the BIOS.Look up the recommended voltage for your RAM and make sure it's applied in the BIOS. It's probably not having enough juice to power those babies.
Goodluck.
edit: Also, run memtest+ to make sure your RAM is working properly.
You have XMP profile selected?Thanks, I checked the voltage and it's 1.5 Volts, which is what it's set to in the BIOS.
I'll run Memtest and see what happens.
Link to a guide by yours truly in the OP.whats the secret to cable management. i have so many cable how do i get it neat like these pics.
Having too much isn't really an issue. As long as it's an efficient PSU, it's only going to draw what it needs.
Can anyone please tell me if this RAM:CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Profile Desktop Memory Model CML8GX3M2A1600C9 is compatible with this MoBo: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS.
It does not appear in the MoBo compatible devices, but that does not mean it won't work, right? it is also the recomended in the OP for that board, so... IDK really :-/
Thanks in advance guys.
It'll work. Your mobo has 4×240pin ram slots. The ram you selected is 240 pin. It'll go in nice and smooth. Also, Corsair is a good brand.
If you still have your key, you can download the USB version direct from microsoft. I dont have a link on hand though.My M4 arrived not too long ago...of course I can't find my Windows 7 CD anywhere. Going to have to "look" for it or use some other method...
Google for "digital river windows 7" and you can find direct links for Windows 7 SP1 ISOs for all versions of Windows. They're legit to download and use as long as you have a valid license key. Having SP1 integrated saves you time and a bit of disc space too, because if you install SP1 the regular way, Windows creates a folder that's several hundred MB in size in case you need to uninstall the service pack.My M4 arrived not too long ago...of course I can't find my Windows 7 CD anywhere. Going to have to "look" for it or use some other method...
Ah, sweet. Thanks.If you still have your key, you can download the USB version direct from microsoft. I dont have a link on hand though.
Anyone know where I can buy a tenkeyless (Standard keyboard minus the numberpad) rubber dome keyboard for my new rig?
All the tenleyless keyboards I found are mechanical, I know they are significatly superior but the loudness is a dealbreaker for me. So far all I found are minikeyboards with cramped key layouts. Thanks.
Should be, pair of pliers ought to do it. You could also remove the bracket from the card beforehand, which should just be a few screws. Otherwise, there's always the tried and true zip ties.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V4AK2K/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Amazon lowered the price of the Asus VG236H to 305.99 for the new models. My amazon warehouse model doesn't come till Monday. Hope I didn't make a mistake. Would have totally went with this given a choice at the time.
SHAZBOT! And the 27 inch model has broken the psychological barrier of 600 and is selling for 594. I swear, prices always plummet whenever I make a PC purchase that I've been holding out on forever.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063BM5NK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V4AK2K/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Amazon lowered the price of the Asus VG236H to 305.99 for the new models. My amazon warehouse model doesn't come till Monday. Hope I didn't make a mistake. Would have totally went with this given a choice at the time.
SHAZBOT! And the 27 inch model has broken the psychological barrier of 600 and is selling for 594. I swear, prices always plummet whenever I make a PC purchase that I've been holding out on forever.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063BM5NK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Do some of you rich people want to be my token rich friend? I see all this gear, and could even be tempted to buy some of it if it wasn't a blind buy. I still don't even know of a single person who owns a 120hz monitor but from what I hear online it might force me into the dreaded 16:9 aspect ration instead of picking up more 16:10 IPS panels. Now if there was a 120hz IPS 16:10 display i would be in nirvana.
Just ordered my VG236H from Newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236092http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V4AK2K/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Amazon lowered the price of the Asus VG236H to 305.99 for the new models. My amazon warehouse model doesn't come till Monday. Hope I didn't make a mistake. Would have totally went with this given a choice at the time.
SHAZBOT! And the 27 inch model has broken the psychological barrier of 600 and is selling for 594. I swear, prices always plummet whenever I make a PC purchase that I've been holding out on forever.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063BM5NK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V4AK2K/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Amazon lowered the price of the Asus VG236H to 305.99 for the new models. My amazon warehouse model doesn't come till Monday. Hope I didn't make a mistake. Would have totally went with this given a choice at the time.
SHAZBOT! And the 27 inch model has broken the psychological barrier of 600 and is selling for 594. I swear, prices always plummet whenever I make a PC purchase that I've been holding out on forever.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063BM5NK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Don't give up! 120Hz 16:10 IPS must come eventually. I'm still holding out hope that the LG DM92 will be a decent panel, although rumour suggests it'll be 1080p and 60Hz passive 3D.Do some of you rich people want to be my token rich friend? I see all this gear, and could even be tempted to buy some of it if it wasn't a blind buy. I still don't even know of a single person who owns a 120hz monitor but from what I hear online it might force me into the dreaded 16:9 aspect ration instead of picking up more 16:10 IPS panels. Now if there was a 120hz IPS 16:10 display i would be in nirvana.
Glad it worked out!Hi All. Thanks to mkenyon's assistance today, and my new RAM (G.Skill Ripjaws X) I got delivered, my machine is purring smoothly with 1866 mhz RAM.
Tonight I will be running Prime95 to make sure it is stable and do a quick 3DMark11!
Hey PC-GAF. Building a PC has always been on my list of things to do and it seems like I finally might have the money to do so! It has been a while since I've actually looked at/built a desktop though, so advice would be appreciated :3
Not a complete list as there's a few things I'm confused about:
- Price Range: < $1000
- CPU: Intel i5 2500K
- Motherboard: ??
- RAM: 8GB Corsair Vengeance
- Graphics Card: GTX560Ti
- Hard Drive: Samsung F3 1TB
- PSU: BP550 Plus
- Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST
- Case: ??
1. With front USB slots, how does that work exactly? I imagine that it's either the motherboard has front USB slots built in or you just wire the front USB slots to the ports on the motherboard. Which is why I kind of left the motherboard blank. Any suggestions for a particular type/brand would be nice.
2. Does the brand of the graphics card really matter? i.e. Are there any particular brands to avoid? I noticed a PNY brand on tigerdirect.com (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7191409&CatId=3585) and it seems to be the cheapest of all the places I checked but wasn't sure if the brand was trustworthy.
3. Is there a potentially better bang/buck graphics card I should get? Currently planning to play D3 at 1650x1050 and near max settings would be nice. There are a few other games I play too like SC2, RE6 (in the future), and a few steam games like Batman: AA/AC.
4. I was reading through comments about the Samsung F3 1TB and it seems like the one listed on newegg is actually a Seagate hard drive/not the spinpoint? Kinda wondering if this matters/what other 1TB hard drives are out there.
5. A suggestion for a case would be helpful. Kind of want something sleek and simplistic.
6. Is applying my own heatsink necessary? I'm currently not interested in overclocking (but may consider it in the future).
Sorry if the questions are kind of newbish. Any major revisions to what I have listed is appreciated. Thanks for the help!
My build.
I need to order my parts by Monday but nobody has the ASUS GTX 680s in stock.
(I like ASUS products.)
I guess if I can find an ASUS 690 I'll go with that since, based on this review, "95% of the performance of the GTX 680 SLI at 5760x1200 and 96% of the performance at 2560x1600." Hopefully one of these pops up too.