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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Is this a good time to buy a 2500k ? Or should I wait ? I'm not really up to date with processors, so I have no idea if any announcements or incoming products are around.
( it's an update mostly made to run Dolphin with the best settings, so if of course you have a better bang for buck in processor to suggest, I'm all ears )
Ivy's a wash. So might as well buy now.

Buy 2500K if you will overclock.
 

ccbfan

Member
What I have now:

AMD Phenom II 1100t @3.7Ghz, Q&C and TurboCore disabled
EVGA GTX 680 OC+
MSA 870 g54 mobo
8GB DDR3


I thinking of changing out the Thuban for an Ivy. Was looking at the 3570k and the ASUS ROG mATX Z77mobo. Definitely want to go Z77, just not sure if I need Ivy over a 2500k.

Is it a close enough call that I should buy whichever CPU is cheaper that day at Microcenter? Considering we're up around $400, is this even worth it? Will it make the game I can't max out maxable? Or will it just makes games I get 147fps in get me 177fps.

There are only a few games that CPU doesn't crush. anything Single Core optimized. It even eats BF3, which can make use of >70% of each 6 cores while playing. Maybe the Thuban will bear more fruit as games become more multithreaded? At least to the point that it's in the same tier as a SB? I dunno. What would be a fair asking price for my used CPU and Mobo you guys think? Try and recoup a little. idk if it's even worth it. There really aren't many games this comp doesn't shit all over.


If you live near a microcenter then 3570K easy.

Had the same question as you before I made my choice of the 2500K vs 3570K. Did tons of research.

Its only 20 bucks more than the 2500K and its better in every way.

It even overclocks better than most new 2500Ks. Newer 2500K tend to have lower clock rates than older ones. Its rare now to get one that goes over 4.7 ghz. Well a 4.5 ghz 3570K is comparable to the 4.7ghz 2500K. As long a you don't hit the wall on the ivy bridge (around 4.7 ghz). You should be fine.

A lot lower power consumption
PCI-E 3.0 suppport
native usb 3.0
HD 4000
 

ameratsu

Member
Hey everyone.

I bought a new HD and would like to migrate my current windows install to that drive. I tried using some clone utility in Acronis True Image, but it blue screens before entering windows.

Can someone suggest a program that will allow me copy everything to a new drive and work correctly by itself?

Thanks
 

mkenyon

Banned
I understand that. Take it this way, you remove the top 3 cages. You insert your HDD in one of the bottom two. Your modular PSU generally has it's ports centered on its the box. Notice then that this remaining HDD cage would get in the way of many if not most of these ports even if it is off center of the case.

I'm not trying to be a know-it-all just trying to make sure for mine and any other mini-ITX purchaser's sake
Watch the review rather than speculate. There's plenty of space for cables to go anywhere. This is not a Lian Li case with the tightest of fittings and barely enough room to squeeze out what you're trying to accomplish. For an ITX case, it's actually pretty huge. Seeing it in the review might give you better size perspective.
Alright ladies and gentlemen, after a month of failures, RMA's, and just plain ol' bad luck, I've finally got this new PC up and running. The hassle of dealing with a broken CPU, H100, memory fell apart and literally dozens of Mobo debug errors made it all worth it I believe. Through all the turmoil, the one person who stayed with me every step of the way was Meknyon ; this gentlemen and scholar ;) assisted me with the process and endured the painful error after error we encountered until it was all resolved. Thank you bro for all your help and knowledge to help me get this rig up and running.

I'll be posting pictures very soon but I just wanted to post an update and give thanks.
*INTERNET FIVE*

I totally forgot to send out the H100 this morning. I have failed.
Hey everyone.

I bought a new HD and would like to migrate my current windows install to that drive. I tried using some clone utility in Acronis True Image, but it blue screens before entering windows.

Can someone suggest a program that will allow me copy everything to a new drive and work correctly by itself?

Thanks
Acronis EZ Migrate, but nothing is ever certain. Why not just reformat?
 

clav

Member
Hey everyone.

I bought a new HD and would like to migrate my current windows install to that drive. I tried using some clone utility in Acronis True Image, but it blue screens before entering windows.

Can someone suggest a program that will allow me copy everything to a new drive and work correctly by itself?

Thanks
Use the built-in Windows Vista/7 complete backup utility.

You can just search for it in Aero.

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/4241/how-to-create-a-system-image-in-windows-7/

To restore the image, click repair your computer rather than install when you boot the Windows 7 setup DVD/USB stick.
 

Arken2121

Member
Watch the review rather than speculate. There's plenty of space for cables to go anywhere. This is not a Lian Li case with the tightest of fittings and barely enough room to squeeze out what you're trying to accomplish. For an ITX case, it's actually pretty huge. Seeing it in the review might give you better size perspective.

*INTERNET FIVE*

I totally forgot to send out the H100 this morning. I have failed.

Acronis EZ Migrate, but nothing is ever certain. Why not just reformat?

No worries, patience is a virtue. 8)
 

longdi

Banned
one thing puzzling me is but is ivy bridge selling higher than sandy bridge due to shortages? i thought ib price set by Intel is a few dollars cheaper than sb?
 

mkenyon

Banned
it seems that retailers dont give a hoot about intel msrp!

for those considering between ib and sb for gaming, take a look at potential performance when future games are capable of using ib enhancements and sb-e extra cores :

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/05/22/asus_p8z77_ws_workstation_motherboard_review/6
Those remove the GPU as the bottleneck, to place the burden entirely on CPU. In no way is that a decent test for what kinds of performance differences you'll see at 1080P+ with any sort of AA enabled.

If you want to look at real world performance differences when games use more than 1-2 threads, look at Civ V 1080P + benchmarks. The game is n-threaded.
 

Dance Inferno

Unconfirmed Member
I decided to do this just as a thought exercise (still not sure whether or not I want to buy a gaming PC considering I have a 360 and a PS3, and the only game really enticing me right now is Diablo 3), but I put together a build based on information from the OP. Thoughts on whether or not this is a solid build, and whether it can run something like Battlefield 3? I already have a solid monitor so I didn't include that in this build.

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.90 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Biostar TZ77XE3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($137.55 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Samsung Spinpoint F4 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($419.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($52.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair 650W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($116.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (32-bit) ($96.48 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Logitech K200 Wired Standard Keyboard ($14.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Mouse: Logitech G9x Wired Laser Mouse ($59.99 @ Newegg)

Total: $1278.85

Seems pretty pricey to me. Is it normal to pay ~$1300 for a solid gaming PC?
 

Arucardo

Member
Oh FFS, figures that the day I get a text telling me they shipped my samsung 830 series SSD my main gaming pc OS decides to fail, can't repair it or anything so it seems like the HDD that Win7 is on is broken. Managed to recover all the important stuff (appdata, game saves, etc.) using my other pc.

Hopefully the SSD arrives tomorrow along with the GTX 670 so I can do a fresh Win7 install. I just did a fresh install on my other pc and maybe my gaming pc got jealous :F . Oh well, as long as something else isn't broken, tried the XP install on the gaming pc and it worked fine so I'm not too worried about something else being broken.

I was hoping to just clone the Windows 7 install I had on to the SSD but I guess I'll put in the extra work for a fresh install.
 
My brother is planning on buying an i5 3750k and a motherboard in two weeks. It is currently on sale at Microcenter.

He has enough for it now, but not enough for both it and a motherboard right now. This is a problem since Microcenter offers great deals if you buy both together.

So my question is for people familiar with Microcenter. How long do their prices generally stick around? Would he be better on waiting and buying both together?
 

ccbfan

Member
My brother is planning on buying an i5 3750k and a motherboard in two weeks. It is currently on sale at Microcenter.

He has enough for it now, but not enough for both it and a motherboard right now. This is a problem since Microcenter offers great deals if you buy both together.

So my question is for people familiar with Microcenter. Ow long do their prices generally stick around? Would he be better on waiting and buying both together?

Buy them together.

The 2500K/2600K with $50 off Z68 Mobo deal have been going on since I started checking out prices which was early this year.

The new 2500K/2600K/3570K3770K with $50 off Z68/Z77 Mobo deal will probably be similar
 

krzy123

Member
My brother is planning on buying an i5 3750k and a motherboard in two weeks. It is currently on sale at Microcenter.

He has enough for it now, but not enough for both it and a motherboard right now. This is a problem since Microcenter offers great deals if you buy both together.

So my question is for people familiar with Microcenter. How long do their prices generally stick around? Would he be better on waiting and buying both together?

For a while, its been up for at least 3+ weeks, that promotion was going on when i bought my proc on May 11th.
 

r4z4

Member
So I returned my defected OCZ ZT 750W PSU and now need to buy another.

I'm running a 3570k and a single Gigabyte GTX 670, will the Antec BP 550 suffice or should I go with the Corsair TX 750 v2? Or something in between such as the TX 650?

I can get the Antec for £55 and the Corsair for £75.

Any advice much appreciated.
 
My PC has been done for a week now. Sold my old computer, and the 4870 along with it. Now I really need that Asus 670 to release here in the Netherlands. Really don't understand why it's taking so goddamn long.
 

LordAlu

Member
So I returned my defected OCZ ZT 750W PSU and now need to buy another.

I'm running a 3570k and a single Gigabyte GTX 670, will the Antec BP 550 suffice or should I go with the Corsair TX 750 v2? Or something in between such as the TX 650?

I can get the Antec for £55 and the Corsair for £75.

Any advice much appreciated.
Recently built a computer for a friend with a 3570k and evga GTX 670. It's got an XFX Pro 550 in there and runs flawlessly, so the Antec BP 550 should be just fine.
 

abunai

Member
Recently built a computer for a friend with a 3570k and evga GTX 670. It's got an XFX Pro 550 in there and runs flawlessly, so the Antec BP 550 should be just fine.

550W is likely enough, but the gigabyte GTX 670 requires a 8+6pin connector, so you might want to check if the PSU has one. EVGA only requires 6+6 iirc.

edit: yo haz can you add this to the OP. Choo choo mother fucka
 
Best Buy thinks my 800w PSU may be the reason why my computer refuses to fully boot, why my monitor and WiFi USB refuse to work at times, and why my computer randomly shuts down when it did work.

Should I believe them?

My rig only technically needs 550-600w. I got the PSU on sale.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Best Buy thinks my 800w PSU may be the reason why my computer refuses to fully boot, why my monitor and WiFi USB refuse to work at times, and why my computer randomly shuts down when it did work.

Should I believe them?

My rig only technically needs 550-600w. I got the PSU on sale.
What motherboard do you have?

Any friends around where you could swap parts in and out with to test?
 

Shambles

Member
Saw Memory Express got about 6 of them in around lunch and watched the numbers as they slowly trickled away during the afternoon. By the time I had gotten off work the website was reporting 3 left, called them, they had two left and they offered to hold one for me. Thank goodness because It took me 25 minutes to get there and by the time I rang mine through the till they were all gone.

dgkzd.png


Behold the glory suckers!
 
guys I need your help! my new PC wont install windows 8 it hangs and then shows the fish. then says your computer ran into a problem and needs to restart

page_fault_in_nonpaged_area

It does this with both the bootable USB and the disk image I made??? what is going on.
 
Suggestions between two power supplies.

So the system my brother is building will have the following components:

i5 3570
8GB of RAM
Radeon 5770 (for now)

He is considering two powersupplies:

Antec 450w Basq

Antec 430w EarthWatt


From what I understand either of these should theoretically have enough power. He may upgrade videocards this Fall, but when he does, he isn't going to go crazy high end.

The reason I am tempted to suggest the second as the better option to him is that he has had problem with iffy power draws in the room he is connecting the PC to in the past. The regulator on this and the more efficient powersupply may be more advantageous even though it is more expensive for -20 watts of power. Since the 3570 is pretty energy efficient, I think he will be safe with either.

Thoughts?
 
guys I need your help! my new PC wont install windows 8 it hangs and then shows the fish. then says your computer ran into a problem and needs to restart

page_fault_in_nonpaged_area

It does this with both the bootable USB and the disk image I made??? what is going on.

Have you tried doing a custom install? That helped me through a similar problem in the past.
 

DeVeAn

Member
Okay, Need some help. I currently have 211GB on my HDD I want to buy a 256GB SSD. Will that be enough or is it a bad idea?

Also I see a clean install is the best, will windows find all my drivers for me? Don't want the headache of shit randomly acting up.

I mostly want my music, steam, documents and such. What is the best way to copy that over and do a fresh install of windows.
 

scottnak

Member
NCIX is good and superbiiz is generally fine although sometimes their shipping is expensive.

Thanks. Helped put my brother's mind at ease with that.

Alright, so looks like he's finally at a build to buy, thanks to all of your suggestions.
Here's the build he's aiming at: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/94Nl
Just under is 1500 aim, but he was wondering whether it is worth it or not to boost up to this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821

And I'm taking care of his monitor so that's out of his budget. (And while your suggestion for that amazing monitor was nice, no, i wont be getting him that. Haha)
 

ziadoz

Neo Member
Hey NeoGaf, any advice on building a budget-ish gaming rig would be greatly appreciated. I'm planning to buy the majority of the parts from NCIX (Canada) and potentially getting them to build it for me too. I've built rigs in the past, so I am comfortable doing the build, but $50 for the time and effort saved seems reasonable. However, if there was some decent money to be saved from purchasing from other places I'd be willing to do it.


Current Specs: Nothing.

Budget: I'm hoping to stick to a maximum budget of $700 - $900 CAD if possible.

Main Use: Gaming.

Monitor Resolution: Not too concerned about a monitor at this point. I have an LG HD TV that outputs 1080p that I can use.

Games: The Witcher 1 & 2, Crysis 1 & 2, Battlefield 3, Call of Duty 4, Diablo 3, Portal 2, Arma/DayZ, Tribes Ascend, Skyrim, Alan Wake.

Reuse Parts: No hardware, but I have a copy of Windows 7 Home Premium OEM from a previous build, so some cash saved there.

Build Timeframe: I'm in no rush, so I will probably do the build in the next 2 - 3 months.

Overclocking: Maybe. I've no immediate plans to overclock, but if the hardware is overclockable it would be an added bonus.


With all the above in mind I picked out the following hardware:

CPU: Intel Core i5 3570K 3.4GHZ - $240
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=70541&promoid=1019

Heatsink: Coolermaster Hyper 212 - $31
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=41337

Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 - $190
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=70902

RAM: GSkill Ripjaw 8GB - $50
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=44267&promoid=1019

GPU: Asus Radeon 7850 2GB - $280
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=69864&promoid=1240

PSU: OCZ ModXStream Pro 700w - $75
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=35456&promoid=1019

Case: BitFenix Merc Alpha - $35
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=63256&promoid=1019

HDD: WD 1TB Cavier Black HDD - $118
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=50895&vpn=WD1002FAEX&manufacture=Western Digital WD&promoid=1019

Optical Drive: None.

Total: $1108 (Exc Tax + Shipping + Build)


I picked the GPU based on what I read on this Toms Hardware article, but I've no idea if any of the cheaper cards would be sufficient for my needs or not, so any advice there would be really useful. With the CPU I considered the Intel Core i5 2500K, but for the price difference the 3750K seemed like a better bet. Most my budget is blown on the CPU, GPU and Motherboard so any ideas on how I could save some money in that area (and elsewhere) would be really helpful.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Gigabyte Z series.

Nobody I know lives near me.
Google 'Gigabyte cold boot bug'. Sounds like what you've got goin on.
Okay, Need some help. I currently have 211GB on my HDD I want to buy a 256GB SSD. Will that be enough or is it a bad idea?

Also I see a clean install is the best, will windows find all my drivers for me? Don't want the headache of shit randomly acting up.

I mostly want my music, steam, documents and such. What is the best way to copy that over and do a fresh install of windows.
Put in SSD, keep HDD in. Set boot device to SSD. Install windows. When you get in, open up your old HDD, and delete whatever you want, keeping it as a data drive. That will reduce what you have on the SSD and give you an easy way to transfer files.
 

DeVeAn

Member
Google 'Gigabyte cold boot bug'. Sounds like what you've got goin on.

Put in SSD, keep HDD in. Set boot device to SSD. Install windows. When you get in, open up your old HDD, and delete whatever you want, keeping it as a data drive. That will reduce what you have on the SSD and give you an easy way to transfer files.

I actually want to replace the HDD and go SSD only. I want the benefits for everything not just OS.
 

Jackben

bitch I'm taking calls.
So memorial day plus leaving the power cable to my PSU at my friend's house (he helped me set it up) means I've had my computer built for a week but have been unable to test it or use it beyond confirming it turns on and reaches boot. Which it does.

Hopefully pics and more this weekend and then I'll be playing the sweet shit with GAT.
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
ijvw2TBP0S8lJ.jpg


Got all my parts in, can't wait to build (my first gaming PC ever) next Sunday. This pic is like porn to me.


To me, too. *drool*

With SLI, you obviously want top perf. Why not 4GB cards? What are your full specs, if you don't mind me asking?
 

feel

Member
To me, too. *drool*

With SLI, you obviously want top perf. Why not 4GB cards? What are your full specs, if you don't mind me asking?
I dunno, wasn't really going for too beastly of a machine, going with two gtx680 in SLI was a bit of a last minute mindless self indulgence, and it probably threw the rest of the build out of balance.

i7 3770 (got the non-K by mistake, is that going to be a problem? I'm not thinking of going crazy with the overclocking anyways)
16 (4x4) GB RAM Corsair Vengeance
2x asus GTX 680
Asus P8Z77-V mobo
Crucial M4 SSD 128gb
1TB Caviar Black HDD
 

ccbfan

Member
Hmm

I only installed Windows 7 Ultimate and Diablo 3 on my SSD and it is already taking up 43.2 GB. Is that reasonable? Seems kinda high to me.

Also with a check the size of all the files it only adds up to under 30 GB. (19 GB for windows/8GB for D3) What happened to the 13.2 GB.
 
Hmm

I only installed Windows 7 Ultimate and Diablo 3 on my SSD and it is already taking up 43.2 GB. Is that reasonable? Seems kinda high to me.

Also with a check the size of all the files it only adds up to under 30 GB. (19 GB for windows/8GB for D3) What happened to the 13.2 GB.

I don't know what percentage it is these days, but you lose a substantial amount in formatting. Drives are never the exact percentage they advertise. Your current space usage doesn't look improbable to me.

For example the 20Gb Xbox hardrives always only had 14GB of usable space, though that is, admittedly, the extreme.

Edit: looks like 128GB SSDs typically have 119GB of usable space.
http://www.sevenforums.com/hardware-devices/23890-hdds-advertized-size-vs-actual-size.html
 

ccbfan

Member
I don't know what percentage it is these days, but you lose a substantial amount in formatting. Drives are never the exact percentage they advertise. Your current space usage doesn't look improbable to me.

For example the 20Gb Xbox hardrives always only had 14GB of usable space, though that is, admittedly, the extreme.

Edit: looks like 128GB SSDs typically have 119GB of usable space.
http://www.sevenforums.com/hardware-devices/23890-hdds-advertized-size-vs-actual-size.html



Already took that into consideration.

I found the issue though. It was from indexing and page file. Apparently page file = ram and this is the first PC I've ever had where my ram is almost 10 percent of the total HD space. Heck I don't think I've ever had a PC where my ram is even 1 percent of my HD. So that page file makes a big difference in my total space used.

When I get my storage HDD, I'm gonna shift my page file to that drive instead.
 

hypernima

Banned
My case should come in tomorrow, kind of hype.
Gradually buying my parts over the summer, my computer should be build before school starts :D
 
Most my budget is blown on the CPU, GPU and Motherboard so any ideas on how I could save some money in that area (and elsewhere) would be really helpful.

NCIX lets you price match, so you can use a price search engine to find cheaper prices and save some cash that way. I recommend Shopbot and PriceBat. Your Asus 7850, for example, can be had for $247.52 (saves you +$30 right there).
 

knitoe

Member
Hmm

I only installed Windows 7 Ultimate and Diablo 3 on my SSD and it is already taking up 43.2 GB. Is that reasonable? Seems kinda high to me.

Also with a check the size of all the files it only adds up to under 30 GB. (19 GB for windows/8GB for D3) What happened to the 13.2 GB.
The space are probaby being use for Windows hibernate and page file. Disable it if you don't put you computer into hibernate. Also, disable or leave page file set to 200MB in case a very old program still needs to use that file.
 

kaskade

Member
While I won't be buying it yet (have to start saving).

How does this build seem for gaming:
PSU Cooler Master Extreme 500w PSU ~40
MotherboardASRock z68 pro3 gen 3 ~105
CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 ~30
GPU Sapphire 6870 ~170
CPU i5 2500k ~220
RAM Corsair Vengeance 8gb ~50

I just want to make sure the PSU is good enough and the motherboard is sufficient. I will most likely be OC the CPU at some point.

All the prices are from amazon since I have prime. They seemed to be pretty comparable to newegg. Unless there's some other site with free shipping that's cheaper I'll be glad to use them.
 
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