I'm thinking gtx 560 non ti or 6850/70? Just guessing though.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I'm thinking gtx 560 non ti or 6850/70? Just guessing though.
Krauser Kat
Member
I get to officially start my G5 case mod today. I will let everyone know how it goes. I might employ my uncles cnc laser cutter for a really clean back panel. Wish me luck.
Im going from an antec 300 with terrible cable management.
Im going from an antec 300 with terrible cable management.
Thank you
I had a similar issue. I had to stop using Intel RST as it wasn't playing nice with my M4.
Adding a notice to OP for now.
Any M4 owners can check their Power On housing using:
http://crystalmark.info/software/CrystalDiskInfo/index-e.html
Speccy
Or anything that reads SMART data
*It's possible that Firmware 0009 may not be affected.
Any M4 owners can check their Power On housing using:
http://crystalmark.info/software/CrystalDiskInfo/index-e.html
Speccy
Or anything that reads SMART data
*It's possible that Firmware 0009 may not be affected.
It's hit or miss, apparently. Mine went down (64GB M4) and I'm in the process of RMAing it right now. Still, I'd imagine there will be a fix in the ~7 months you have until yours fails.
Edit: If you're curious, here's the topic from the Crucial forums on the subject.
My understanding from talking with them was that there's a Firmware update in the works but, then again, that may have just been a rep saying things :/
I'll check mine when I get home.
All I know is that it was working perfectly with Intel RST until a few weeks ago when it decided that within 3 minutes of booting up it would hard freeze and BSOD. If Intel RST is being used it will do this every single time.
LPM has been disabled and windows settings to never power down the drive. It's fine for me since I don't mind using the MSAHCI drivers (This is on an Alienware M11x R2 so it's only using SATA 2)
Also it's using 0009
However mine might just be some individual issue and not indicative of the 5200 hour problem.
All I know is that it was working perfectly with Intel RST until a few weeks ago when it decided that within 3 minutes of booting up it would hard freeze and BSOD. If Intel RST is being used it will do this every single time.
LPM has been disabled and windows settings to never power down the drive. It's fine for me since I don't mind using the MSAHCI drivers (This is on an Alienware M11x R2 so it's only using SATA 2)
Also it's using 0009
However mine might just be some individual issue and not indicative of the 5200 hour problem.
Which brand is considered to be better? XFX or Sapphire?
Intel RST flat out doesn't play nice with Laptops it seems. Disabling LPM or just swapping to the msahci driver is the typical suggestion that I've seen.
There's been a few people who have had it happen when they hit ~5200 hours while on 0009. None yet on the newer batches of the drives that ship with 0009 but they have a few months before that 5200 hour mark is even reached.
Personally, my drive was from May and I didn't update to 0009 until after I had the problem.
XFX has a super warranty for all their products if you register.
I have a question about Crossfire
I currently have a Powercolour 5770 card and someone at work is looking to sell a HIS HD 5770 for $50 I figure it'd be a good way to increase the performance on my machine.
Is there going to be a problem with the 2 cards being different brands?
I currently have a Powercolour 5770 card and someone at work is looking to sell a HIS HD 5770 for $50 I figure it'd be a good way to increase the performance on my machine.
Is there going to be a problem with the 2 cards being different brands?
Nope
Just make sure you have the mobo and PSU for it
going quad smokey?
Heh. I dunno about quad, but I have some plans. I have to send my motherboard off to RMA this week with the hopes that something just shorted on my current board and I can resume my duties by the end of the month. Just taking an overall look at what could be better in my rig and a couple jump out, one is the PSU.
Trying to do a refresh of sorts, but certain components aren't cooperating with me...
Hero_of_the_Day
Member
Well, something just went bad with my graphics cards. Yesterday I turned on my computer and my resolution was fucked. Clicked on the Nvidia control panel and got an error message that I wasn't plugged into an Nvidia card, which I was. Reinstalled drivers and everything was fine. About an hour ago I turned on my computer same thing. Uninstalled drivers, reinstalled, all good. Except I have no sli options. Computer sees both cards, but I can't turn on sli. There's just an option for physx instead of the normal sli and physx tab. I have reinstalled the drivers twice now, no go. Shitty.
560 ti's by the way.
EDIT: Hmmm... Seems I'm not the only person with sli EVGA 560 ti's having this problem. In the last week there have been at least two people on nvidias board complaining about the exact same thing :http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=219350&st=0&p=1348006&fromsearch=1&#entry1348006
560 ti's by the way.
EDIT: Hmmm... Seems I'm not the only person with sli EVGA 560 ti's having this problem. In the last week there have been at least two people on nvidias board complaining about the exact same thing :http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=219350&st=0&p=1348006&fromsearch=1&#entry1348006
I think so I have a 650W PSU so I think it'll handle it. Thanks for the help!
RPG_Fanatic
Member
My current PC is starting to get old and I was thinking of getting a new one.
I use my PC for plenty of gaming, but I'm not looking for a beast computer that runs the most graphic intensive games on max settings.
If I want to build a PC from scratch, what threshold should I look at in order to be play PC games that come out in the next few years without having to worry about gameplay impacted frame rate issues?
Also, does anyone know how difficult it would be to transfer the contents, OS, and setting of the HDD of my current computer to a new one?
I use my PC for plenty of gaming, but I'm not looking for a beast computer that runs the most graphic intensive games on max settings.
If I want to build a PC from scratch, what threshold should I look at in order to be play PC games that come out in the next few years without having to worry about gameplay impacted frame rate issues?
Also, does anyone know how difficult it would be to transfer the contents, OS, and setting of the HDD of my current computer to a new one?
They use the shittiest coolers though. Often they will use the reference cooler designs which means if you want to overclock you may want to get a aftermarket cooler like I did.
It's impossible to say for certain.
The latter of the two questions, that's just not something you want to do. Between chipset drivers and a host of other things, fresh install is always best. You can transfer data if you have another HDD no problem though.
RPG_Fanatic
Member
Thanks for the info.
CPU - Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) - $220
MoBo - ASRock P67 EXTREME4 GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX - $150
GPU - XFX Double D HD-695X-CDFC Radeon HD 6950 2GB - $250 (after $30 mail-in)
RAM - G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) - $44
Case - COOLER MASTER HAF 912 - $50 (after $10 mail-on)
Power - Antec BP550 Plus 550W- $70
Heatsink - COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 - $30
Monitor - SAMSUNG S23A300B High Glossy Black 23" 5ms Full HD LED - $150
Using my awesome NYS unclaimed funds money, this is the machine I think I'm going to buy. I have hard drives and optical drives already. I've never built my own machine before, so I'm VERY nervous about oversights.
I'm going to use the machine on a desk AND have it running out to the TV. My current setup already does this (poorly). Do I need the Xonar if I'm going to hook up to either a 5.1 system OR the TV sound (I have an old 5.1 receiver/speakers, I'm not sure if I'm going to hook them up any time soon)?
What is everyone's opinion on the best solution for keyboard/mouse on the comfy couch? Right now I have a wireless keyboard with a built in trackball and shoulder type buttons. It's okay at best.
PLEASE let me know if you disagree with any choices or see oversights or think I'm overpaying for something. Thanks GAF!
MoBo - ASRock P67 EXTREME4 GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX - $150
GPU - XFX Double D HD-695X-CDFC Radeon HD 6950 2GB - $250 (after $30 mail-in)
RAM - G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) - $44
Case - COOLER MASTER HAF 912 - $50 (after $10 mail-on)
Power - Antec BP550 Plus 550W- $70
Heatsink - COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 - $30
Monitor - SAMSUNG S23A300B High Glossy Black 23" 5ms Full HD LED - $150
Using my awesome NYS unclaimed funds money, this is the machine I think I'm going to buy. I have hard drives and optical drives already. I've never built my own machine before, so I'm VERY nervous about oversights.
I'm going to use the machine on a desk AND have it running out to the TV. My current setup already does this (poorly). Do I need the Xonar if I'm going to hook up to either a 5.1 system OR the TV sound (I have an old 5.1 receiver/speakers, I'm not sure if I'm going to hook them up any time soon)?
What is everyone's opinion on the best solution for keyboard/mouse on the comfy couch? Right now I have a wireless keyboard with a built in trackball and shoulder type buttons. It's okay at best.
PLEASE let me know if you disagree with any choices or see oversights or think I'm overpaying for something. Thanks GAF!
brucewaynegretzky
Member
Dear PC Gaf,
I want to know if my laptop can run Red Alert 3. I checked "Can You Run It" but it seemed off. It said my Intel HD graphics card can't handle it, but I just got this new laptop and the card seems to meet all the individual requirements listed. It also said Windows 7 didn't meet the Vista requirements, so I was a little skeptical. I have 1.7 Gb of video processing so I would think it could handle a game a few years old. Any thoughts?
I want to know if my laptop can run Red Alert 3. I checked "Can You Run It" but it seemed off. It said my Intel HD graphics card can't handle it, but I just got this new laptop and the card seems to meet all the individual requirements listed. It also said Windows 7 didn't meet the Vista requirements, so I was a little skeptical. I have 1.7 Gb of video processing so I would think it could handle a game a few years old. Any thoughts?
As mkenyon said, it's impossible to be for certain. You need to give us a budget. If I were looking for something that will have a reasonably long life, I'd go for an overclockable 2500k system with perhaps a GTX 560 448 or a 6950. You might be looking at around ~$1000-$1200 in that case though, so it depends on whether or not your budget stretches that far.
1.7GB doesn't really mean anything. That's just the amount of space the video card has to work with, not the speed at which it will render a scene. Intel cards are really not very powerful and aren't meang for gaming. It might be able to run it, though I can't guarantee whether or not you'll get acceptable performance.
HotHamWater
Member
Power supply seems to be on the way out for my families main computer (made from random parts I've replaced over the years). Is there any particular 500W supply I should be looking for? Any brands I should steer clear of, or is it more of a pot luck?
Figured I'd be on the safe side and ask here.
Figured I'd be on the safe side and ask here.
brucewaynegretzky
Member
That seems kind of nuts considering how old RA3 is. I remember that game having annoyingly high requirements for an RTS though.
Mr Nightman
Banned
Hero_of_the_Day
Member
Rolled back my drivers and got it working. I had been on the other drivers for at least two weeks though, so I don't know what the deal was with that. I found multiple other posts on Nvidias board complaining about it. So either it's a spreading problem or someone there has made multiple accounts to bitch about it. Mine are EVGA's and two of the people on their board also said theirs were EVGAs. So. I think I'll not be buying their cards again.
HotHamWater
Member
Mr Nightman
Banned
no problem, glad to help. I run that psu in one of my gaming rigs and its perfect, nice quality and very quiet
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=33995696&postcount=25
I decided to sell off the M4. Nothing is wrong with the M4 when I connected it to the desktop, so replacing the M4 with a different one won't fix the problem on the laptop. The plan was to wait for Intel 520, but I might just settle for 510 since I don't use the laptop nearly enough.
I decided to sell off the M4. Nothing is wrong with the M4 when I connected it to the desktop, so replacing the M4 with a different one won't fix the problem on the laptop. The plan was to wait for Intel 520, but I might just settle for 510 since I don't use the laptop nearly enough.
for games you'll "only" get multi-channel (surround) PCM over HDMI with modern Nvidia and AMD cards (once you've set speaker configuration to 5.1/7.1), because these card don't support real-time encoding of the (real-time mixed) game sounds to a DD/DTS track
PCM is theoretically higher quality anyway because it is uncompressed unlike DD/DTS, although I doubt any games have good enough "raw" sound to make the difference noticeable...
so no you should be fine for games with just your current videocard
Uncompressed, but everything delivered at the same volume through all 5 channels, correct? Or am I misunderstanding what DTS and Dolby do?
I presume you tried switching to the stock drivers (msahci) and/or disabled LPM? Those are a known issue with Laptops and SSDs in general, not just the M4.
Also, I kind of wish that was a few days earlier as I would've hopped on it instead of the second 64GB I picked up.
Yeah I've tried just about everything. The stuttering issue is not nearly as bad (as I make it seem), but it is distracting while streaming netflix/youtube/stream monster on the laptop before bed or something. If it doesn't sell, then it's not a big deal. I'll just wait on the RST 11.5 drivers, which will allow for TRIM in Raid 0 and then I should have similar numbers to these on my desktop
I'm going to keep this short and sweet because i'm terrified that the PS3 browser will crash or i'll delete everything again while i'm typing this. MBP died and i'm now building my first pc in almost 10 years. I'd normally spend weeks researching this stuff myself but it's a pain on the PS3. Thanks in advance for any answers or advice given.
CPU: 2500K - Whats this 3.7 Turbo about?
MOBO: ASUS P8Z68-V or PRO/GEN3? What's the difference other than PCI-e 3.0?
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 1600 8GB (2x4)
Vid Card: Worth waiting for the HD7850/7870 in February? I'll be using onboard video until then.
HD's: I have to two barracuda 1tb drives that have been collecting dust that should do fine.
PSU: XFX PRO 550 - Will this be enough for the upcoming HD7800 cards?
Case: Bitfenix Shinobi or Fractal R3? How much quieter is the R3 and is that worth the extra £30.
Optical: ASUS DRW-24B1ST probably. I was having a bit of a problem when searching for this earlier.
Heatsink: 212 Hyper Evo
Sound: Xonar DG
Just a couple more questions.
Can I run the windows 8 developer preview in place of win 7 until win 8 is released?
Does anyone who has experience building a hackintosh know if these parts are compatible?
CPU: 2500K - Whats this 3.7 Turbo about?
MOBO: ASUS P8Z68-V or PRO/GEN3? What's the difference other than PCI-e 3.0?
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 1600 8GB (2x4)
Vid Card: Worth waiting for the HD7850/7870 in February? I'll be using onboard video until then.
HD's: I have to two barracuda 1tb drives that have been collecting dust that should do fine.
PSU: XFX PRO 550 - Will this be enough for the upcoming HD7800 cards?
Case: Bitfenix Shinobi or Fractal R3? How much quieter is the R3 and is that worth the extra £30.
Optical: ASUS DRW-24B1ST probably. I was having a bit of a problem when searching for this earlier.
Heatsink: 212 Hyper Evo
Sound: Xonar DG
Just a couple more questions.
Can I run the windows 8 developer preview in place of win 7 until win 8 is released?
Does anyone who has experience building a hackintosh know if these parts are compatible?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Turbo disables 1/2/3 cores and overclocks the remaining cores when you're running software that doesn't stress all four CPU cores.
GEN3 boards are pretty much meaningless unless you plan to upgrade to Ivy Bridge. None of their extra features work on SB unless I'm mistaken.
7800 cards will probably be priced similarly to the 6900 series, and perform similarly as well. Still, worth getting those thanks to lower power consumption and GCN.
Existing HDD is probably going to be slower than what you would buy, but considering the ridiculous HDD prices that's still a better option than buying one. Good time to invest in a SSD, IMO.
PSU is fine for most single GPU rigs.
Fractal R3 is a better case and probably worth the increased cost, but I don't think you would really be disappointed in either for the price. At least in the US, both are among the best cases in their price range.
Can't really answer your other two questions with any confidence. I used the Win7 Beta until the launch of Win7, but I don't know if the Win8 developer builds are that far along yet. If it's stable enough, I don't see why you couldn't. No experience with a Hackintosh.
smokeandmirrors
Banned
Hey pc-gaf a couple questions. Have some money from the holidays and was thinking of upgrading my pc a bit. This pc was one that was a graduation present from my parents from 2010, so I didn't build it (wish I had). Now with Ivy Bridge coming up and the amd 7000 series coming, I think it's about time. It's a Dell pc by the way.
Included:
Core i3 530 @ 2.93ghz
8gb ram (unknown maker)
Dell motherboard
Radeon HD 6850 (present from last christmas)
600watt power supply (upgraded when I got the 6850)
Blu-ray drive
1tb samsung (I think) drive
Now I'm certain that my CPU is my bottleneck now. Would I see a huge gain in performance if I were to upgrade the mobo and the cpu to an i5 and throw in a second (or new) video card in there? Would it be worth it to buy some better ram too, seeing as I have no idea the make and it came with the computer?
Also definitely throw in an ssd there for Windows, right?
Edit: 1080p monitor, thinking of a second 1080p monitor. Moderate gaming
Included:
Core i3 530 @ 2.93ghz
8gb ram (unknown maker)
Dell motherboard
Radeon HD 6850 (present from last christmas)
600watt power supply (upgraded when I got the 6850)
Blu-ray drive
1tb samsung (I think) drive
Now I'm certain that my CPU is my bottleneck now. Would I see a huge gain in performance if I were to upgrade the mobo and the cpu to an i5 and throw in a second (or new) video card in there? Would it be worth it to buy some better ram too, seeing as I have no idea the make and it came with the computer?
Also definitely throw in an ssd there for Windows, right?
Edit: 1080p monitor, thinking of a second 1080p monitor. Moderate gaming
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Probably do want a new CPU, that one wouldn't be too bad right now if you could OC it.
You could carry over quite a few things from that build though. RAM, PSU if you got a good one, BD drive, HDD. Might be able to use that copy of Win7, not sure if the license is transferable from the Dell though.
Get a new MB, CPU, and GPU, and a case to put it all in and you should be good. SSD isn't a bad choice either if you have the money to put toward it.
If you're waiting for 7800, you might as well wait for IB too, but for the most part it's not going to be a significant upgrade over SB on the CPU side (IGP should be a lot better, but people here are buying discrete GPUs so that doesn't mean much).
You could carry over quite a few things from that build though. RAM, PSU if you got a good one, BD drive, HDD. Might be able to use that copy of Win7, not sure if the license is transferable from the Dell though.
Get a new MB, CPU, and GPU, and a case to put it all in and you should be good. SSD isn't a bad choice either if you have the money to put toward it.
If you're waiting for 7800, you might as well wait for IB too, but for the most part it's not going to be a significant upgrade over SB on the CPU side (IGP should be a lot better, but people here are buying discrete GPUs so that doesn't mean much).
smokeandmirrors
Banned
Yeah, definitely looking to put everything in a new case. And I'm assuming ram is ram unless I'm looking for high end gaming and such, then?
I'm not too sure on the video card though. As for Ivy Bridge, how much power/heat reduction and performance increases are we looking at here? I was thinking of getting a sandy bridge cpu as a less expensive option once IB comes through.
One minor suggestion: You can get the XFX 550 from NewEgg for $55 after rebate. It's not modular, but it's a better PSU. Rebates can be a hassle, but XFX sends checks instead of debit cards like most companies do these days, so that's a plus. Everything else in your build looks good.
I'll let someone else comment on your other questions.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
RAM is RAM regardless, outside of some very special circumstances. As long as it's DDR3 RAM (and I'm pretty sure all the i3/5/7 series have been DDR3) 1333+ it will be fine. Unlikely that your RAM is slower, but you could check easily enough with something like Speccy or CPUz.
Power consumption for IB is a bit lower I think. 2500k equivilent (3570k?) is rated at like 70W, while the 2500k is 95W. Should result in lower temps, naturally, but I doubt it's going to be a huge difference, and 24/7 OCing is still probably going to be voltage limited like it (usually) is with SB.
No idea if SB will drop in price after IB gets released though. Since they are both on the same socket it could happen.
PC gaf, my body is ready.
Hopefully Ill have it mostly built by the weekend, but I'm not in much as rush as I don't even have a video card yet. Waiting out for the 7970 next week!
Since this is my first build ill ask just to be safe, I got a anti static wrist strap and one of these anti static mats to be extra safe, unfortunately the room I am going to assemble this in is fully carpeted, the work desk is wood though.
I was just going to attach those to the case but I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the PSU needs to be installed and plugged into an outlet (but turned off obviously) in order for the case to be properly grounded, is this true? or will the case alone act fine?
Hopefully Ill have it mostly built by the weekend, but I'm not in much as rush as I don't even have a video card yet. Waiting out for the 7970 next week!
Since this is my first build ill ask just to be safe, I got a anti static wrist strap and one of these anti static mats to be extra safe, unfortunately the room I am going to assemble this in is fully carpeted, the work desk is wood though.
I was just going to attach those to the case but I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the PSU needs to be installed and plugged into an outlet (but turned off obviously) in order for the case to be properly grounded, is this true? or will the case alone act fine?
the 2nd
Dolby/DTS are just older formats to get normal uncompressed (5.1) surround audio transported over optical cables, as those only support 2.0 uncompressed. By compressing they manage to squeeze 6 channels through the same cable. Once it is received it is decompressed by your receiver and output through your speakers. This compressing also helps reduce the file size of the soundtrack on movie files and DVD discs.
For HDMI such limits don't apply, so you might as well just send the uncompressed 5.1 or 7.1 over the HDMI cable without bothering with the (quality loss from) DD/DTS compression.
of course there is Dolby True HD and DTS-HD for blu-ray discs, but AFAIK those are mainly used because of space savings and some other nifty (audiophile territorial-ish) things. No game consoles or sound cards can output those real-time though, so 5.1/7.1 uncompressed PCM is the best available anyway for (PC) gaming
smokeandmirrors
Banned
What's a good speed for ram at least? Speccy is telling me mine is running at 535mhz.
And I'd be stepping from around 130watts to 70watts on the processor front, so that might actually be a bigger difference for me.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
DDR (double data rate) actually means that speed is doubled, so it's 1066 RAM. Kind of surprising. You could just keep that RAM, but upgrading to 8GB 1333+ RAM would give you some slight improvements and shouldn't cost much. $30-$40, depending on what deals are going at the time. For reference it's not worth paying more for RAM faster than 1333, the difference between that and 1600 is minimal, and beyond that you won't see any improvements for gaming and normal usage.
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