Believe, you could go as low as 30GB SSD as a cache drive.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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Believe, you could go as low as 30GB SSD as a cache drive.
Just so we both know it, how do you do that in Intel RST? I can't seem to do anything in that program. I've used troubleshoot and apparently this is the way to do that.
It seems to enabled standard in my settings and I can't even change the option to enable or disable.
1. Under 'Status' or 'Manage', in the storage system view, click the array you want to manage. The element properties are now displayed on the left.
2. In the Advanced section, click 'Enable' or 'Disable' depending on the option available.
3. Click 'Yes' to confirm.
4. The page refreshes and now displays the new setting.
I love Fractal but the white logo isn't very HTPC compatible. It's beautiful otherwise.
They are actually removing/changing the logo because of complaints they've received on forums according to a Swedish hardware site.
Source: http://youtu.be/PZoiWHNpI3o?t=1m50s (In Swedish though)
Lateraleye
Member
These are my best friend, and would be yours. I just cleaned up a bunch of mine under my desk and it looks so clean now. For cords that have a lot of extra length, fold them together and tie. I'd also advise moving to a wireless keyboard and mouse if you haven't done so already. Makes a huge difference.
PCPer reported the same thing. I think it was in their podcast, not an article though. Either way it does look sweet but for an HTPC box it's lacking an optical bay.
Edit: Ah there's a slim bay, damn that's slick:
Lateraleye
Member
Last night I put together my first build at last. Took about 3 hours to do. Everything worked perfectly on first boot. I was stunned because somehow I usually manage to forget something when I'm working on a technical project. The Samsung 830 SSD is so bloody fast it blows my mind. The EFI splash screen comes up for about 5-10 seconds, then Windows loads for less then 5 seconds and BOOM, ready for login. I don't even mind that I didn't get it for that awesome sale price yesterday. I have to get used to having a big case on the desk with fan always running after being laptop only the last couple of years. No regrets.
Wanna know what the biggest roadblock was though? Fitting the motherboard into the stupid back ports plate on the case. That took me at least half an hour. Bending the prongs all sorts of ways to get everything to slide in. Kept catching on the DVI mostly. It doesn't look great but the ports seem to be reachable enough. Man that was a pain. I also messed up by using the wrong screws to secure the holes in the motherboard to the standoffs but it seems snug minus the upper right hole for some reason.
I felt so proud of myself after it was all done though. I've already started planning out the next build just for kicks with lessons learned from this one. I can see how it can become quite the addiction.
Wanna know what the biggest roadblock was though? Fitting the motherboard into the stupid back ports plate on the case. That took me at least half an hour. Bending the prongs all sorts of ways to get everything to slide in. Kept catching on the DVI mostly. It doesn't look great but the ports seem to be reachable enough. Man that was a pain. I also messed up by using the wrong screws to secure the holes in the motherboard to the standoffs but it seems snug minus the upper right hole for some reason.
I felt so proud of myself after it was all done though. I've already started planning out the next build just for kicks with lessons learned from this one. I can see how it can become quite the addiction.
Lovely Salsa
Banned
Guys, I don't have a cd/dvd drive on my pc
I need to install a driver that is on a cd, is there a way I can use my macbook pro to install the driver to my pc?
I need to install a driver that is on a cd, is there a way I can use my macbook pro to install the driver to my pc?
extremepabs
Member
I am just putting the pieces together on my new build and was hoping for a bit of advice.
I have a Bitfenix Merc case, I5 3570k processor and a gigabyte z77 d3h motherboard, 8 gig of corsair vengeance ram. I also have a wireless card to add and a 560ti graphics card.
So far I have installed the power supply, motherboard,processor,ram, DVDRW, SATA hard drive.
My question is should I install windows etc prior to installing the graphics card? I know the motherboard has onboard graphics so was wondering if there may be conflicts when I try to install if both are connected.
I have a Bitfenix Merc case, I5 3570k processor and a gigabyte z77 d3h motherboard, 8 gig of corsair vengeance ram. I also have a wireless card to add and a 560ti graphics card.
So far I have installed the power supply, motherboard,processor,ram, DVDRW, SATA hard drive.
My question is should I install windows etc prior to installing the graphics card? I know the motherboard has onboard graphics so was wondering if there may be conflicts when I try to install if both are connected.
blackprophesy
Member
Can't you just download the driver somewhere? Or transfer it over from the disk to a USB stick using the Mac?
Lovely Salsa
Banned
Where can I get the drivers for my usb bluetooth? Its called Generic bluetooth radio
I got it with a cd but the cd is broken :/
I got it with a cd but the cd is broken :/
Lovely Salsa
Banned
The cd is broken, I see now :/
blackprophesy
Member
PCPer reported the same thing. I think it was in their podcast, not an article though. Either way it does look sweet but for an HTPC box it's lacking an optical bay.
Edit: Ah there's a slim bay, damn that's slick:
That's an awesome looking case...and just what I've been looking for, and with the news they're addressing the logo it's even better! That will be my living room PC.
No, put your graphics card in and hook your monitor up to that. When you start it up for the first time it will detect your card in there and output through it. Head into the BIOS and disable anything to do with on-board graphics and then install Windows.
Does it have a product name or number on the physical USB stick?
How long do you want this to last, and for what? I would switch the 680 to a 670 and use the money saved from that on a 3770k. PSU is fine.
PSU and Processor are fine. I'd only go for an i7 if you're gonna be doing rendering or mega video rendering or streaming sorta thing.
I'd like to make it last atleast 1-2 years? Might even upgrade a bit more but my current setup does not allow easy upgrades(and OC'ing). I could even get 680 and 3770k, what 670 is the best then? Asus GTX670-DC2T-2GD5 ?
Might want to stream a bit but nothing hardcore or anything, I guess i7 is really not necessary.
I was suggesting a 3770k because of new consoles opening the doors to games making use of more threads, but if you only want it to last 2 years it's not a problem. The Asus 670 is the best, yes, it will perform better than a reference 680 right out of the box. Are you just playing at 1920x1080? I have been able to max anything I've thrown at my 670 at 2560x1440 60fps, so the extra power from OCing a 680 is not worth unless you want to SLI and go for 120hz.
Currently I am playing 1920x1080 ye, might change to 2560x1440 in the future.
I guess I'll go for 670 since I don't really tend to go SLI because of the downsides.
edit: thought 3770k was an i5 but it's a i7 so I'll go for the i5 3570k
The best of all the brands, proved? Or "the best" as in a I like it very much? I'm going EVGA's 670 FTW and may change ASUS if benchmarks show I should!
The Evga FTW has had a lot of complaints about noise. All of the blower style coolers are terrible with noise and cooling.
The design of the Asus, GB (though this has coil whine issues), and the MSI (idk if their non-ref cooler version is out yet) keep it very cool and much, much quieter.
60GB is the MAX you can use for a cache drive. I've just done it on my rig and it flies, all my games load quick as hell, and it boots and is responsive in next to no time instead of waiting for all the damn icons to load slowly.
Why not just go itx for now and get a 680?
Not a fan of the Phantom, too much cheap plastic. It's just begging to break. Aesthetics are subjective, but I think NZXT should change their motto. "NZXT: For when you just don't want to stop being 15." The 690II Advanced revision just hit the egg, if you're set on SLI.
16GB RAM is total overkill unless you're rendering. Stick to 8GB, which is already overkill.
3570K doesn't really deserve an H100. CM212, or even the H60 if you like the closed loop aesthetic will get you to the heat wall as well as the H100 will. You're not going to get any better clocks out of it. If you want it because you want it, then to answer you're other questions, it takes 120mm fans, not 140. Push/Pull will net you about 2-3 degree difference, and this goes back to the original point in the paragraph: there's no reason really to do it with ivybridge.
That's cutting it a bit too close for my liking. I'd go with a 650W, the more overhead you have on your PSU, the longer its life is going to be. You always want to keep it at about 80% if possible for maximum efficiency.
Also, if you're looking to stream regularly, the i7 is worth every penny.
1dB difference.
Blower designs have come a long way, especially this round for Nvidia.
Why not just go itx for now and get a 680?
Not a fan of the Phantom, too much cheap plastic. It's just begging to break. Aesthetics are subjective, but I think NZXT should change their motto. "NZXT: For when you just don't want to stop being 15." The 690II Advanced revision just hit the egg, if you're set on SLI.
16GB RAM is total overkill unless you're rendering. Stick to 8GB, which is already overkill.
3570K doesn't really deserve an H100. CM212, or even the H60 if you like the closed loop aesthetic will get you to the heat wall as well as the H100 will. You're not going to get any better clocks out of it. If you want it because you want it, then to answer you're other questions, it takes 120mm fans, not 140. Push/Pull will net you about 2-3 degree difference, and this goes back to the original point in the paragraph: there's no reason really to do it with ivybridge.
That's cutting it a bit too close for my liking. I'd go with a 650W, the more overhead you have on your PSU, the longer its life is going to be. You always want to keep it at about 80% if possible for maximum efficiency.
Also, if you're looking to stream regularly, the i7 is worth every penny.
1dB difference.
Blower designs have come a long way, especially this round for Nvidia.
You know Kenyon, I was just changing it up inthe last hour. Saw a review for the bitfenix and the only psu hat fits is a non-modular psu as shown in that promotional pics. Made cable management a mess and turned me off on the idea. I'm not too big with tinkering, once I build my computer I pretty much want to forget it other then to clean it out once in a while, or trouble shoot. Hence, the 16gb and the closed loop system.
Anyways, what's your take on the corsair 650d? And do you think the 690 is worth the extra 200 over sli 670s, on z77? I'm also looking at the corsair m4 512gb..and opinions are over the place.
Fair enough, time to look for a good 650W modular PSU then. They don't seem to be so popular(and cheap) :S
The closed loop system is theoretically more intensive to maintain and more prone to failure than a piece of aluminum and copper. Ask yourself, are you trying to justify it just because you want it, or does it provide some benefit you aren't getting by something less expensive?
I *really* don't see 16GB necessary for a long time. 4GB is still plenty. Maybe in like 3-4 years?
650D is okay, but it's more limited than its counterparts for the sake of looks. There's a lot better options for the money, such as the Lian Li PC-90, Switch 810, Bitfenix Shinobi XL, Silverstone TJ-04 (awesome case), Fractal Arc Midi, CM690II.
I love my 690, and I certainly wouldn't want two 670s over it. Part of it is exclusivity I'm sure, which makes me kind of a douche, but I'm okay with that. "Worth it" is totally subjective and something you'll have to answer. It does provide a lot of benefits over SLI even at similar performance, lots of engineering to specifically weed out some of the issues that tend to crop up like microstuttering.
Corsair AX650, HX650, Seasonic X650, X660.
I used the PSU calculator and it said that with SLI 680s or a 690, at peak all it needs is 600w, and the site recommended 650. That's including everything in the system. Cutting it close IMO, so I went for a 750 modular.
I keep moving back and forth between a XSPC Rasa 240 kit, and the corsair h100. I guess the more I look up custom loops, the maintenance (cleaning once a year?), the initial bleeding and leak test...makes the h100 more appealing to the lazy, plug and play mindset of mines. The very idea of disassembling my loop to clean, reapplying thermal paste, reconnecting everything and bleeding once a year makes me dread it. I heard the h100 is maintenance free for the duration of its warranty? BUT I love the possibility to add he GPU to the loop..but I know once I everything is done I'm rarely going to go back into the build. Even if I plan to eventually upgrade, or change anything, I know I won't. So i like to "future proof" (as much as you can for the pc scene) as much as I can in the initial build.
I do like the aesthetics of the 650d, very understated and classy. I've been looking up cases all morning, and watching video reviews for most of those cases. At some point they all kind of blend together unless you're doing a custom loop, so I went with the one that I thought looked best with decent features (ie not missing anything).
Id love to read about your experiences with the custom loop? You've always given good advice.
I really don't understand why people paying $1000 for video card(s) try going cheap a with the PSU. If the PSU gets stress too much, it could pop and take everything along with it, MB, CPU, video card and etc. PSUs are most efficient at 50-60% load. They also degrades overtime, faster under more stress. What was 750W could be 700W next year, 625W in 2 years and so on. And, unlike a CPU, MB, video cards and etc., you can keep reusing the PSU for many new builds which makes their cost & value way more higher than compare to other parts.
I gotta admit, I still don't see a reason for the H100. If you don't like to tinker, there certainly is zero reason for a proper loop. This is again tied to ivybridge. The H100/loop on a 2500K might be worth it, because it might enable you to get to 4.8-5.0Ghz for 24/7 use. IB has a heat wall that will be hit long before that, which a CM 212+ gets you to. You can't expand it to have other parts, so it needs to be judged on cooling ability.
It's also certainly not maintenance free. The H100 radiator is a total bitch to clean out due to super high FPI (fins per inch). My miniature air compressor doesn't even do a great job at it. You don't have to drain it or anything though.
I personally like having a custom loop. The idea of needing to pull my whole case apart to fix something or clean the loop is a chance to do more stuff in my hobby and exciting to me.
If you are set on Push/Pull, and the H100, check out the list of cases in my last post save for the PC-90 (140mm fan mounts mean no H100). The 650D won't fit it in push pull, and will only be able to work as pull/exhaust or push/intake unless you do some dremel work.
I wasn't convinced with the 690II until I saw the revision. Good news!
mkenyon, do you think I could fit a push/pull configuration with a H60 inside the 690II (I was going H100 but your opinions made me change it)?
Absolutely. Again, push/pull seems like an irrational standard for the most part. We're talking really minute benefits with it. In general, a single really nice fan is going to be better than two okay fans, and barely different than two really nice fans.
I think it's a holdover from the days when radiator and fan design weren't exactly good. With the huge strides in delivering high pressure with low noise, it's really not necessary unless you're trying to squeeze every last ounce of performance out of your system.
I think it's a holdover from the days when radiator and fan design weren't exactly good. With the huge strides in delivering high pressure with low noise, it's really not necessary unless you're trying to squeeze every last ounce of performance out of your system.
Calibrated Chaos
Member
Hey GAF,
I run a video production and advertising company in NYC and we recently were able to acquire a new office. Yay?
Not really because we have to spend money on computers.
This is where your expertise comes in:
I need to build out 4 PCs that will be used for video editing on a somewhat tight budget. I think it makes sense to have two of the PCs be more powerful, these will do the heavy duty editing and post while the other two will mainly be used to log, capture, and cut together footage.
I was thinking under a grand (excluding monitors) for the more powerful PCs while closer to 500-600 for the less powerful ones. I know I definitely want an SSD in the higher end PCs.
I appreciate your help.
I run a video production and advertising company in NYC and we recently were able to acquire a new office. Yay?
Not really because we have to spend money on computers.
This is where your expertise comes in:
I need to build out 4 PCs that will be used for video editing on a somewhat tight budget. I think it makes sense to have two of the PCs be more powerful, these will do the heavy duty editing and post while the other two will mainly be used to log, capture, and cut together footage.
I was thinking under a grand (excluding monitors) for the more powerful PCs while closer to 500-600 for the less powerful ones. I know I definitely want an SSD in the higher end PCs.
I appreciate your help.
YGPM, this might get complex.Hey GAF,
I run a video production and advertising company in NYC and we recently were able to acquire a new office. Yay?
Not really because we have to spend money on computers.
This is where your expertise comes in:
I need to build out 4 PCs that will be used for video editing on a somewhat tight budget. I think it makes sense to have two of the PCs be more powerful, these will do the heavy duty editing and post while the other two will mainly be used to log, capture, and cut together footage.
I was thinking under a grand (excluding monitors) for the more powerful PCs while closer to 500-600 for the less powerful ones. I know I definitely want an SSD in the higher end PCs.
I appreciate your help.
One nice fan it is.
extremepabs
Member
No, put your graphics card in and hook your monitor up to that. When you start it up for the first time it will detect your card in there and output through it. Head into the BIOS and disable anything to do with on-board graphics and then install Windows.
Does it have a product name or number on the physical USB stick?
Cheers for the response!
My power supply is an ocz 750w bronze and it powers everything and doesnt seem to get hot but the fan doeesn't seem to move. Is this normal? or have I forgotten to connect something?
I have only ran the pc for an hour so far to install windows.
It may have a fanless operation made. It will only spin the fan when it reaches a certain temperature.
Zombie James
Banned
The new Zotac 670 looks good:
cartman414
Member
I have a feeling quad ht will migrate downward a bit with Haswell.
Instrumedley
Member
My roommate owes me $358 and I'm gonna let him pay me back by buying me a GTX 570. I want to know which is the best to get.
He doesn't have the money, only a credit card. Or else I'd take cash instead. But I can get a card, then sell my 6970 and make some back.
He doesn't have the money, only a credit card. Or else I'd take cash instead. But I can get a card, then sell my 6970 and make some back.
extremepabs
Member
I have an OCZ Technology ZS Series 750W 80+ Bronze Power Supply and the manual is totally useless it tells you nothing at all about the power supply.
I definitely had the pc on for an hour with no crashes though.
Tea and Toast
Member
Have been looking for a new monitor for a while now. Finding a decent looking IPS monitor has been a pain so I gave up and just ordered an ASUS PA238Q.
I got it fairly cheap (I think). Anyone got one of these? Image quality is what I'm looking for with some occasional gaming as I use my tv for that mostly.
Sooo, is it any good? Having such an ugly thing on my desk pains me, and the only thing that will make me feel better is a recommendation by GAF.
I got it fairly cheap (I think). Anyone got one of these? Image quality is what I'm looking for with some occasional gaming as I use my tv for that mostly.
Sooo, is it any good? Having such an ugly thing on my desk pains me, and the only thing that will make me feel better is a recommendation by GAF.
The new Zotac 670 looks good:
Mid-range Kepler shows its true face
I'm still happy with my 670
It -...it looks cute. Huh?The new Zotac 670 looks good:
The new Zotac 670 looks good:
OMG it's so cute I want to pinch it!
Infinite Justice
Member
The new Zotac 670 looks good:
looks like a baby/mini GPU
MisterNoisy
Member
I actually like what a lot of NZXT is doing lately, but there's still part of me that enjoys being 15. I don't think the 'original' Phantom is a bad case (or even a bad-looking case) at all, and the plastics are nicer than most of what I've seen in plastic/steel chassis. Aside from the logo and lights (which the 15-year old in me added), I'd say the Phantom is pretty tasteful:
I've done builds in the NZXT H2 (a fairly restrained-looking case IMO) and the Tempest 410 (admittedly not as restrained, but very functional), which share the Phantom 410's internal layout, and both cases were a joy to work in - nicely designed, well built for the price and finished nicely. They're not Lian Li aluminum cases, but they're not priced like them either. It also helps that their customer service is really good.
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