BoobPhysics101
Banned
That is what would happen if you're too lazy to test your overclock, which could happen with either processor.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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That is what would happen if you're too lazy to test your overclock, which could happen with either processor.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Might go down to $200 or so when IB drops, but only until stock runs out. Wouldn't expect it to go any lower than that.
DrBaalzamon
Member
So I ended up buying this card here locally at Frys.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150561
But it is loud as hell when playing games. Are all 6870's this loud or would a slightly more expensive, MSI brand with dual fans etc be quieter? I see the reviews do indicate that it is loud etc. Maybe I should just upgrade slightly to a 6950 or will they be louder?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150561
But it is loud as hell when playing games. Are all 6870's this loud or would a slightly more expensive, MSI brand with dual fans etc be quieter? I see the reviews do indicate that it is loud etc. Maybe I should just upgrade slightly to a 6950 or will they be louder?
Just curious what will be the benefits of the new IB CPUs compared to the current 2500k? Worth it to get that instead of the 2500k if I'm looking to build a computer late this year?
black_vegeta
Member
This.
RomanticHeroX
Member
Had my video drivers crash just browsing the internet yesterday, and just now had a BSOD while playing Crysis. I'm not sure how worried I should be about this. I'm reinstalling the Nvidia drivers in case they didn't install right. I also redid the cables in the case to help with airflow and plugged in a second case fan I had left unplugged. Hopefully it just got a bit too hot and it's not something more serious. I've been running Core Temp and the CPU has been good, around 50C while playing a game, but is there a good piece of software to monitor the video card temps?
Got my new Asrock P67 mobo/ CM212 and the 2600K this morning and just completed the upgrade. Went pretty smoothly, it took me a bit to decipher the drawings on the CM212 install but got everything installed and it booted up first time. After upgrading my daughter's XP box last week and spending pretty much most of the night working around old/new driver issues it's amazing how much better Windows 7 handles motherboard swaps.
I wasn't going to OC right away but they make it so easy now I figured I would give it a shot. Loaded the XMP profile for my memory then used the "Auto 4.8ghz turbo" setting in the bios and didn't have to touch any other settings. So far so good.
The only thing I would do differently the next time is to NOT use the install ALL on the driver CD. Asrock tricked me by putting the Install All button on the drivers tab and since I needed all of the drivers I assumed it would only do those, but the install all also installed all of the utilities, trials and bloatware from the other tabs which I didn't want so I had to spend some time uninstalling and cleaning that crap up.
I wasn't going to OC right away but they make it so easy now I figured I would give it a shot. Loaded the XMP profile for my memory then used the "Auto 4.8ghz turbo" setting in the bios and didn't have to touch any other settings. So far so good.
The only thing I would do differently the next time is to NOT use the install ALL on the driver CD. Asrock tricked me by putting the Install All button on the drivers tab and since I needed all of the drivers I assumed it would only do those, but the install all also installed all of the utilities, trials and bloatware from the other tabs which I didn't want so I had to spend some time uninstalling and cleaning that crap up.
DrBaalzamon
Member
Oh additionally, I've had this question in the back of my mind. Once I install the Catalyst software suite, can I use the MSI afterburner as well? Or how does that work. Thanks!
Question about my 7970: Furmark crashes the card after 10 seconds whenever I change the clocks above 925 in catalyst or Asus tweak but the card works fine and stays at a reasonable temp when I play any games, should I be worried about keeping it overclocked?
Just so you know, that's not really overclocking. It's allowing your proc to increase a single core to that speed while reducing the rest in single threaded applications, and there really aren't that many of those left.
It still is really really easy though, and suggest you do it. The performance increase is basically linear, so you can get ~30% extra performance for free.
Seems like I'll be looking to pick up the 2600k this week unless i can find the 2700k for not that much more. Thanks!
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Don't use Furmark for god's sake, it is an unsafe, potentially dangerous application which goes far beyond what a card is actually going to endure under load. Use Heaven DX11 benchmark or 3dmark11 for your stress testing.
Freyjadour
Member
120ish for a ASRock Z68 Extreme 4 Gen 3 on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FE52X6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I'm debating grabbing one now and waiting for a decent deal on a 128GB M4/320 for the GF's new build.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FE52X6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I'm debating grabbing one now and waiting for a decent deal on a 128GB M4/320 for the GF's new build.
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Dirt cheap but: "Usually ships in 1-2 months" LOL
Freyjadour
Member
Yeah, that's Amazon's way of saying "good luck", but I'm playing the waiting game on this new build, she doesn't need it immediately.
This isn't the Intel Turbo Boost feature, this is an overclocking profile that Asrock includes in the Bios, not sure if other manufacturers have something similar Cpu-Z reports a multiplier of 48 so it appears to be a true overclock to me. This is an example of what I'm using on a similar board:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/automatic-overclock-motherboard-cpu,3048-2.html
Well my windows 7 cd finally arrived along with Shogun 2. Installation went without a hitch although it did take me a couple of hours to re-install everything and download all the updates.
I have though decided that I really do need a SSD to install my most used programs and windows on it, as it isn't as fast as I would like.
I have though decided that I really do need a SSD to install my most used programs and windows on it, as it isn't as fast as I would like.
RomanticHeroX
Member
Okay, 40 minutes running Crysis on max settings and I got a max CPU temp of 60 and an average of 50-55, and a max GPU temp of 73 with an average around 60. I'm running an i5 2500k and an Asus GTX560 Ti, and nothing is overclocked. Does any of that look unusual?
Haint
Member
Driver crash during browsing has been a common and ongoing issue since the 280.XX series debuted back in the summer. A sizable thread discussing it has lived on the front page of Nvidia's official driver forum for damn near half a year now. Nvidia have addressed the issue specifically several times now, but they were yet to deliver a 100% stable release last I checked. Where are you seeing that Afterburner is the root cause celcius?
BoobPhysics101
Banned
What's unusual is that you haven't overclocked yet. DO IT
I have a new i5 2500k and want to overclock, dont want to fuck it up though
Here's an easy way to do it: set multiplier to 42. Done. There you go. That'll be a 4.2 Ghz OC with no voltage adjustment. You can then go to 4.5 Ghz at your leisure.
The 128GB M4 is on sale at Buy.com for $175:
http://www.buy.com/prod/crucial-m4-...d-state-drive-ssd-with-desktop/225162131.html
wait are you serious? I can just set the multiplier to 42 and thats it? dont have to do or worry about anything else?
Also what will setting it to 42 do the the life expectancy of the CPU? (about how many years will it shave off)
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Yup. Or set it to 40-41 if you're scared, but a vast majority of 2500k's can handle 4.2 Ghz without additional voltage.
And it'll shave off no years, because no additional voltage is applied. Hell, who cares if it does anyways? Unless you give it an extreme amount of voltage (1.55-1.60+), you won't get chip degradation. And if it lasts 5 years instead of 10, big deal, you know?
RomanticHeroX
Member
Great, that puts my mind at ease a bit.
I put this together two days ago. I want to make sure nothing arrived broken before I get a chance to break it myself
I put this together two days ago. I want to make sure nothing arrived broken before I get a chance to break it myself
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Great, that puts my mind at ease a bit.
I put this together two days ago. I want to make sure nothing arrived broken before I get a chance to break it myself
Use IntelBurnTest with max RAM settings and Heavenbenchmark to stress the shit out of your CPU and GPU. Then use Prime95 blend for a couple of hours if you're OCD and paranoid.
Then, OC that 2500k and if you need help with the 560 Ti, there's tons of pro overclocks in this thread and the Race Your PC thread. 560 Ti is similar to my GTX 570 so I can help you if you just ask.
Well I set it to 4.2 and it says I did in the MB menu but not on CPUID-Z or Dxdiag.
Quicksilver4648
Member
Hey, do any of you guys know how good the Corsair GT CSSD-F120GBGT-BK 120GB SATA III SSD is? NewEgg has a this for $180 and a $30 rebate which brings it down to $150 which seems like a good deal based on this details of the drive. However, wish this being my first SSD purchase I want to make sure I am doing this right the first time. Based on the reviews it seems I would definitely need to upgrade to the newest firmware but other then that it seems to work great. However, I havn't paid too much attention in the PC building scene since last year and I don't don't want to get screwed.
Also, are there any other SSDs that are out or will be coming out this spring that are better than this SSD but also in a very similar price range?
Also, are there any other SSDs that are out or will be coming out this spring that are better than this SSD but also in a very similar price range?
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Load the CPU with Prime95. You'll see it clock up from 1600 mhz to 4200.
It only hits top speed under load so it doesn't waste electricity.
Theonik
Member
Try putting the CPU under load and try again. In Sandy Bridge OC applies in turbo mode which is activated under load.
Edit: Beaten.
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Large, Small, or Blend depending on what you want to test. Just try Large for now.
Putting together PC's is the only build orders Hazaro knows about
I have the Black Magic Intensity Pro. It's an internal card, takes just a minute to install. Now, if your 360 is connected through HDMI this is definitely the way to go. Actually, even if you connect through component, this card has you covered. It comes with a breakout cable that allows you to pass video into the card and back out to your TV. However with HDMI, it's much cleaner.
When I'm streaming, all the footage is archived in TwitchTV. So, if there's a film or clip from that night when I was streaming, I just go ahead and clip it out right there. Quality is not as good as a direct capture though, of course. Direct capture is super high quality. With the Xbox 360, this card only allows capturing in 720p. I capture at 60fps as well. You can't really tell in my Halo videos because Halo runs at 30...barely lol. However, if I were a betting man, I would guess 60fps for Halo 4. Now, this thing definitely requires some HDD space. 2 minutes of uncompressed HD video, 720p will run you about 400mb of space. Just imagine an entire, epic, 15 minute Halo match. Ya, quite a few GBs. When I go for the long gameplays, I usually clip it from my stream archive. However, for montages and trailers that I make, it's always direct capture. The archived video, if you rip it from Twitch is .flv so it's much much smaller than the .avi files. I can get like an hour and a half of archived footage for around a GB or so. Much better.
I have the luxury of a super fast Internet so I can stream at a high bitrate and my archived stream footage looks pretty damn good.
Here are some examples:
Ripped archive video
Direct Capture video
The youtube compression doesn't do it justice :/
Here is direct capture footage upscaled to 1080p
Now, with my current setup, I don't have an HDMI splitter. So to play my 360 when I don't necessarily want to capture or stream, I still need the card to be in use. Which means my PC is on and I've got my streaming program opened and active. I definitely recommend a splitter. I'll be picking one up shortly.
I have the Black Magic Intensity Pro. It's an internal card, takes just a minute to install. Now, if your 360 is connected through HDMI this is definitely the way to go. Actually, even if you connect through component, this card has you covered. It comes with a breakout cable that allows you to pass video into the card and back out to your TV. However with HDMI, it's much cleaner.
When I'm streaming, all the footage is archived in TwitchTV. So, if there's a film or clip from that night when I was streaming, I just go ahead and clip it out right there. Quality is not as good as a direct capture though, of course. Direct capture is super high quality. With the Xbox 360, this card only allows capturing in 720p. I capture at 60fps as well. You can't really tell in my Halo videos because Halo runs at 30...barely lol. However, if I were a betting man, I would guess 60fps for Halo 4. Now, this thing definitely requires some HDD space. 2 minutes of uncompressed HD video, 720p will run you about 400mb of space. Just imagine an entire, epic, 15 minute Halo match. Ya, quite a few GBs. When I go for the long gameplays, I usually clip it from my stream archive. However, for montages and trailers that I make, it's always direct capture. The archived video, if you rip it from Twitch is .flv so it's much much smaller than the .avi files. I can get like an hour and a half of archived footage for around a GB or so. Much better.
I have the luxury of a super fast Internet so I can stream at a high bitrate and my archived stream footage looks pretty damn good.
Here are some examples:
Ripped archive video
Direct Capture video
The youtube compression doesn't do it justice :/
Here is direct capture footage upscaled to 1080p
Now, with my current setup, I don't have an HDMI splitter. So to play my 360 when I don't necessarily want to capture or stream, I still need the card to be in use. Which means my PC is on and I've got my streaming program opened and active. I definitely recommend a splitter. I'll be picking one up shortly.
RomanticHeroX
Member
Thank you so much for the advice. I've never tried overclocking before but I definitely want to give it a try with this build. If you have advice for OCing my video card I'd certainly appreciate it.
Thanks for letting me know, furmark is in the OP though which is why I tried it.
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Sure, on a 560 Ti you should use MSI Afterburner (google how to unlock the overclocking/voltage mode) 2.2.0 beta 10.
I'd recommend these settings to start: 1.050v (or close to that), 850 mhz core, and something like 2100-2200 Mhz RAM. That's a pretty conservative overclock that'll give you a good boost in performance.
I don't think it should be in there, I'll send a PM to Hazaro. Both Nvidia and AMD have throttles in their drivers to try to keep Furmark from blowing up GPU's, if that's any indication of how dangerous it can be.
Celcius
°Temp. member
I was merely suggesting that afterburner is a great program to monitor your gpu temps...
BoobPhysics101
Banned
You never stress-tested it with IntelBurnTest or Prime95? Bad dog.
I personally use offset +0.030v for 4.5 ghz if that gives you an idea. Try that and see if it handles 10-20 runs of IntelBurnTest. If so, it's most likely stable enough for daily driving.
LOL I did stress testing, as well as the PC racing thread, but I'm kind of scared to mess with it at this point. Last time I messed with settings other than just changing the multiplier I did something to mess with my ram, and couldn't get my pc to post until I switched out the ram. For some reason just using a different stick fixed it, then I was able to put the originals back in. I read through the guides on this thoroughly, but am still uncomfortable with it in a way.
Is using it at 44 without adjusting the voltage risky? I have been getting some weird things with core temp where it says 98 for all for cores...I think it's just a bug in the program though. I was thinking I'd just leave it at 44 for now, I may get it water cooled whenever the 680's come out.
Is using it at 44 without adjusting the voltage risky? I have been getting some weird things with core temp where it says 98 for all for cores...I think it's just a bug in the program though. I was thinking I'd just leave it at 44 for now, I may get it water cooled whenever the 680's come out.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
The PSU was a 400 watt "Diablotek"
I upgraded it with a 600 watt Corsair GS600 (even though the 550 ti minimum required is a 400w, I wanted some OCing leeway.)
Btw, I was afraid my 550 ti wasn't working because its been a while since I PC gamed and I had no idea cards now had to be connected to the power supply??
Labombadog
Member
I bought Windows 7 Pro upgrade for this new system I built. It did not have any OS before hand, anyway to have a full install working properly with this? Or should I have went with the full/regular (and more expensive) version?
edit: nevermind. found the answer.
edit: nevermind. found the answer.
Cards that draw under 75W can be powered from the motherboard. A 6 pin power adds another 75W of power, 2 of those 150W which makes the card able to draw up to 225W for example. 8 pin can deliver maximum of 150 per cable.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
I saw the Corsair on sale at Best Buy for 90, but could I have gotten away with using the 400W supply with the GPU?
Probably, also depends on the efficiency of the PSU. The 550ti isn't exactly power demanding by today standards.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
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